When we drove up to the door, a black or two came to the horses, no
master or his representative appeared. We got out and walked into the
common entry, and at length I accosted a stranger to know if there was a
master of the house, who very civilly said he was in the back part and
would perhaps soon come; I then went and called the Independent, who
came forward, {42} I told him we wanted breakfast, he just inquired for
how many, and then, without shewing a place to sit down, went to order
it. This man I afterwards could perceive knew what he was about,--the
above is one of the modes of shewing to an Englishman their boasted
liberty and independence; their vulgar minds cannot perceive the
difference between servility and civility. Having a tent in the baggage
waggon and every thing for the purpose, we last night escaped these sort
of fellows, and their bugs and fleas, by driving into the wood, where,
finding a pleasant spot and good water, we lighted a fire, took tea very
comfortably, and slept well upon the camp-bedsteads: this, during the
hot weather, is by far the most pleasant plan where it can be adopted;
but there are some objections to it which cannot easily be got over; it
is not always in one's power to pitch the tent in the neighbourhood of
good water; the apprehension of the horses breaking their halters and
straying is not pleasant; (otherwise, they are quite as well off as
ourselves away from American buildings;) and the greater attendance
necessarily required from our own servants, both to ourselves and horses
is harassing,--another assistant or two would have rendered the plan
feasible with comfort and less expence. By the way, it is strange that
{43} tavern-keeping should increase in these times, so dead as they say
to trade, and consequently one would suppose also dead for travelling;
but so it is, taverns are every where building or adding to: what a
joyous prospect for the bugs and fleas! Expressing myself at a loss the
other day to account for the number of public-houses building, a black
man within hearing said he guessed they were preparing for better
times--they could just now do it cheaper as hands, in consequence of
want of money, were more plentiful: his observation appears just.
[Illustration: Widow McMurran's Tavern, Scrub Ridge]
_August 3d._ The weather is extremely hot, and we have encountered
several most tremendous storms of thunder and lightning. The thermometer
is now at 88° in the shade with a draught of air at one o'clock; in the
sun it is at least 108°. Many parties from various nations and of
different modes of travelling are on the road for the West, and we hear
of great numbers having passed during the spring and summer, all making
towards the great point of attraction the western country.
We have now passed over Cove mountain and Scrubridge;[14] the road over
both has been lately formed, is judiciously laid, and would be excellent
were the stones covered with gravel, or rather were they broken small;
as it is, one is shaken to pieces without the possibility of avoiding
it. {44} Under this evil we are solaced by the views of grand forest
scenery,--the Oak of several kinds, the sweet Chestnut, the black Walnut
and Hickory, with here and there tracts of pine, cover these mountains;
affording shelter to herds of deer, foxes, rakoons, and also, as we had
occular proof, to snakes of various kinds. Throughout the mountains and
their neighbourhood you almost universally meet with most excellent
water, affording a delicious beverage during the hot weather; the trunk
of a tree hollowed out is set up like a pump, with a spout near the top,
from which the water, constantly rising towards its level, runs in a
clear and cool stream.
[Illustration: View on Scrub Ridge]
5th. At Bloody Run, called so from a battle fought with the natives;[15]
here stands a little town pleasantly situate on the Juniatta river,
and containing several useful trades, such as blacksmith, wheelwright,
harness-maker, tailor, and draper, &c. We approached it for the last
nine miles by a new and excellent road just finishing, which is laid a
considerable way along the Juniatta, the banks of which are beautifully
edged with woodland. Some alterations and repairs done to the dearborn
and the waggon here were charged at the following rate:--
Cents.
{45} Wheelwright, for two new poles, one great swing
tree, and two single ditto $4 : 50
Blacksmith, for ironing the above (except one of the poles.) 6 : 50
Price of a horse-shoe and putting on 0 : 31-1/2
Ditto, a remove 0 : 12-1/2
We here enjoyed ourselves under the comforts of a good inn and attentive
landlady.
10th. At Johnson's tavern, foot of Chestnut Ridge. We have now passed
the Allegany mountains, and can affirm that at this time of the year
there is little except the stony road very formidable to encounter: the
line of it is laid with judgment, and with steady horses and a stout
carriage may well be passed over by those who fear not a shaking; that,
indeed, they may rely upon. The settlers on the eastern side of the
mountains take great pains to deter the traveller from attempting the
pass, and even after having surmounted the Cove mountain, Scrubridge,
&c., I was told of the great difficulties of Laurel Hill; the fact is,
it proved the easiest of the whole; nothing annoyed us but the sun, it
being about mid-day when we began the ascent.
Much has been said of the expense of travelling in this country, I give
therefore a night's bill at one of the better houses, viz.
Cents.
{46} 5 Suppers $1 : 87-1/2
Lodging 0 : 37-1/2
Hay for 4 horses 1 : 0
8 Gallons (1 Bushel) of Oats 1 : 0 £. _s._ _d._
---------
4 : 25 0 : 19 : 1-1/2
A night's bill at a good English inn for the same would be double the
amount.