commissioned by the general government, and allowed a salary of $2000.
Their province seems to be to expound the law, or rather decide, as
judges of it. All bonds, notes, agreements, &c. have to be passed under
the official seal; and cost, according to the value, from 6 1/4 cents
to eleven dollars, and the proceeds go to support the revenue. Every
village or settlement has its priest and alcalde. The former presides
over their morals, and arrogates to himself the dictatorship of their
consciences, while the latter wields the sceptre of civil justice, and
decrees, and executes with all the dignity of a governor. If parties
aggrieved enter a complaint, he dispatches a foot page with his
official cane, which is a process of compulsion, or _forthwith_; and in
case of non-compliance the party is made liable to a discretionary fine.
Although these modes of judicature may seem to us despotic yet they
constitute, no doubt, the most salutary system for that people. In
regard to their national constitution, they have copied it from ours,
or nearly so, excepting religious intolerance. This they are aware, is
anti-republican; and yet their universal and bigoted attachment to
this faith, and their peculiar situation in a civil, religious, and
military point of view, at the close of the revolution, seem to have
demanded it.
The constitution may be altered in the year 1830, by the concurrence
of two thirds of the members of congress; and at which time, it was
expected by many, with whom I conversed, an attempt {279} will be made
to tolerate all religious denominations.[139] Their sources of revenue
are the following; on all merchandize they impose an enormous duty. I
think according to their last assessment, this duty is from 15 to 50
per cent. according to the species of goods. Another very considerable
revenue accrues from the culture and manufacture of cigars. This
business is monopolized by the government, who furnish all parts of
the republic with this the greatest of their luxuries. To give an idea
of the quantity consumed in Chihuahua, and the adjacent villages, I
publish a note made at the time of my residence there, which states,
that on the 16th October, 1826, one caravan of mules brought to the
custom house, cigars valued at $95,000; and that a few days after,
another arrived and brought $25,000 more; and at the same time it
was remarked by good judges, that it was but about half the quantity
consumed in the year. This may be well imagined, when we consider, that
all smoke, both old and young, male and female. The duties arising
from the precious metals smelted, which are 2 per cent., amount to
something very considerable. All monies removed from one state to
another are liable to 2 per cent; and if taken out of the government,
another 3 1/2 per cent. Formerly each state claimed 2 or 3 per cent.
on all merchandize, sold within its limits; but this tax was repealed
more than a year ago; and was merged in the international duties. All
produce of the farm, as beef, pork, grain, fruit, vegetables, &c.
is subject to duty. And then comes the 'severest cut of all,' the
_tithes_. Thus the poor farmer may at once make up his mind to devote
himself a willing slave to the minions of superstition and credulity.
But oppression does not stop here. It may be traced through the minute
ramnifications of all social and religious intercourse. To explain
these bearings, it would be necessary to pause in these remarks, and
notice such characteristics, as compose, or help to compose, a body
politic; and which comprise a variety of materials, which directly
or indirectly influence the happiness or prove the bane of society.
In illustrating this hint, it will be necessary to pass in review a
subject, which, though variously {280} understood, is nevertheless
sacred to every Christian believer. I shall, therefore, aim at _due
deference_ for _every_ religious sect; and particularly that one, of
which I am about to speak. Its claim I am assuredly not disposed to
deny. But when I reflect on the situation of a people by nature free,
and as a body, endowed with all the moral and physical advantages to
make them great, wise, and happy, I can but enquire into the causes of
the great and obvious distress, which pervades this fair portion of our
continent.
During my residence with that people, no situation could be better
calculated than mine, to facilitate the objects of this enquiry. My
profession naturally led me into the sphere of intimacy and confidence,
which brought into view, the most generous and noble traits of the
human mind; while, at the same time, I was obliged to witness with
disgust, the thousand meannesses incident to human nature, which found
their way through all the avenues of avarice, prejudice, interest and
power.
In the first place, we find them bound to observe all the enjoined
feast days, amounting to more than one hundred, during which, they
are not permitted to labor. Among these, Sundays are included. About
fifty days in the year are devoted nominally to their patron saints.
We will now suppose, that out of seven millions (the supposed amount
of the population in Mexico,) three sevenths are laborers, at the
moderate price of twenty-five cents per day, the loss would amount
to seven hundred and fifty thousand dollars; and in the course of a
year, to thirty-seven million five hundred thousand dollars! Added
to this prodigality of time, no doubt some 12-1/2 cents at least
would be spent by each, by way of drinking, recreation, or otherwise,
which would amount to thirty thousand dollars per day, and for the
year, one million five hundred thousand dollars; making an aggregate
of thirty-nine millions of dollars of lost time in this way to the
community. Added to this sum, would be the expense of rockets,
illuminations, artificial bowers, church expenditures, civil and
military uniforms, and a thousand other collateral expenses, that grow
out of this established usage.
{281} This of itself would seem to be sufficient to impoverish a
nation. But we have yet to consider a few other items; such as pertain
to births, deaths, marriages, &c. &c. In regard to baptisms, I have
often witnessed them, but am unacquainted with the expense. The
ceremonies of a common marriage are not considered decent, unless
they cost one hundred dollars; burials about the same price, though
regulated by the style, number of priests, musicians, part of the
_campo sato_, in which the interment is made, and the number of masses
subsequently said, &c. The funeral rites of infants usually cost from
20 dollars upwards. The high or low cross makes a great difference in
the expense. All children who die before the age of accountability, are
considered (and, I think, very properly) to have taken their departure
for a better world. Hence the supposed propriety of festivity and
rejoicing at such obsequies, and a grave solemnity at those of adults.
The most exhilarating music is played at the house of the little
innocent sojourner, and also on the way to the potter's field, together
with discharge of rockets, accompanied by a rabble of boys, paupers,
mendicants and priests.
It may not be uninteresting to notice some few of these civil and
religious customs, inasmuch as they differ from our own; and border on
what our people are apt to consider a puerile superstition.
The greatest personage of their adoration, is called _Nuestra Senora
de Guadaloupe_, whom they esteem their patroness saint. She is said
to have appeared near the city of Mexico, soon after the conquest of
Cortez; calling herself by this name, and at the same time averring
herself to be the true Mary, mother of Jesus. Her appearance was made
to a poor Indian, who was civilized, and had some office in the church
ceremonies.
He was by her ordered to go to the bishop of Mexico, and make known
to him the wonderful apparition, and deliver him the following verbal
message: 'That she had descended to the earth, the guardian protectress
of that happy nation. That a temple must be built to her name in the
vicinity of Mexico, where her {282} benign influence would be shed to
the healing of the nation.' This command seems to have much surprised
the poor native, who declined being the messenger of this heavenly
mission, alleging his lowness of birth, and the probability of his
being considered an impostor by the bishop, when stating a circumstance
so contrary to the common order of things. Whereupon she bade him not
fear, but do as she should command him; and that she would suitably
reward him. She then told him, that in order to convince the bishop,
that the message was from heaven, he must go on to a neighboring
mountain, where he should find in great abundance, a variety of
blossoms, which at that time of the year, it being winter, could
not naturally exist, and hence the evidence of a miracle. Many more
mysterious circumstances are related in the history of this renowned
personage, comprising a very considerable volume. But it is sufficient
to say, that the message was received, the temple erected on the spot
by her pointed out; and that she is now the object of devotion, and
made the principal object of their mediatorial rites.
The anniversary of her appearance is the 12th of December, when
a painting of her is taken from the temple, and carried to the
_paroguia_, followed by a promiscuous procession. The next day
she is returned to her temple; though there is always a duplicate
representative kept at the church, which is carried out to visit the
sick, and ward off disease. When any one falls sick, a greater or
lesser catalogue of painted and wax images surround the patient's bed,
which they almost incessantly implore.
Being naturally a credulous people, they place the most implicit
confidence in all superiors; but more particularly in the priests and
physicians. All such as are visited with sickness, usually meet with
ample hospitality and commiseration. As it is a generally received
opinion that the Spanish character is fraught with stealth, jealousy,
perfidy, rapine and murder, I feel it an incumbent duty to contradict,
or rather palliate it in a great measure. I grant, we find this a
predominant feature in the lower ranks of society, and too much
countenanced by the {283} higher order. But where is the country that
is not more or less afflicted in the same way? Even our own country is
not without crimes from these sources. Though they are not perpetrated
with impunity, they are suffered to rankle in the bosom of society. So,
while we there find the suspicious rabble of the community addicted to
these vices, we oftener find them here confined to those who assume
the importance of gentlemen, who openly or covertly practice their
crimes under the protection of the public countenance. The Spanish
Don is generally a high minded, honorable and dignified character,
who would not descend to meanness. Like all other nations, the people
here watch their interest with tenacity. But so far as my experience
goes, a respectable stranger meets with a hospitable reception, and
is often loaded with favour. Among the wealthy we not unfrequently
find the liberal heart and hand, to as great an extent as any other
part of America can boast. Another beautiful trait in their character
is a universal respect for seniority. Thus you find the elder brother
respected and obeyed; while the parents command the most profound
reverence to the end of their life. Common salutations are exceedingly
cordial and polite. An embrace with the head uncovered, is the usual
ceremony. If a servant is spoken to, he uncovers, before he makes his
reply. Thus you find the most illiterate heathen looking characters
among them, well versed in etiquette. The stranger is struck with the
great discrepancy of dress between the high and low classes; as the
former abounds more or less, with gold lace or rich embroidery, and the
latter, polished with smoke and grease, is little more than a blanket.
As a people they seem to me to possess less versatility of genius,
than perhaps, any other people. Such traditions as their forefathers
sanctioned, are in no case questioned; but remain incorporated with
their religion. All their manual labor appears to be conducted in the
ancient routine of almost savage simplicity; even their women, to
this day, are made the efficient instruments in reducing all their
maize to meal, of which their {284} bread is mostly constituted. Every
other process of labour is conducted with equal embarrassment and
disadvantage.
Having thus far hinted at their customs, I shall have to consider the
country lying between Chihuahua and the mouth of the Rio del Norte,
both in a geographical and agricultural point of view. The reader will
understand, that there is a great sameness in most of the Mexican
Republic; as the general aspect is that of alternate low plains, high
mountains of barren heaths, interspersed with arid plains, that would
be productive, but for the want of seasonable rains, so necessary
to fertility.--Those mountains lying S. W. between Chihuahua and the
Pacific, are said to be much higher and more productive of timber,
having great supplies of rain.
But in travelling from Chihuahua to the Atlantic coast, we seldom
meet with water, more than once a day; and that furnished by trifling
streams, or springs; and frequently from deep wells, where live a few
shepherds, to water the flocks and sell water to passengers.
On almost all the streams, we find more or less inhabitants, according
to the advantages of water and soil. On the rivers St. Pedro, Conchez,
Guajaquilla, Parral, Napas, Parras, Pattas, Santa Catarina, &c. which
are very small streams, we find more or less agriculture, conducted by
irrigation, and for the most part, sufficient for the consumption of
the inhabitants of the immediate vicinity. But the mining towns are
mostly dependent on their supplies from abroad. Santa Cruz and St.
Pablo, sixty miles from Chihuahua, on the river St. Pedro, afford many
good farms. Parral, containing perhaps eight thousand, is altogether
a mining town. St. Bartolomeo and Guajaquilla, 180 miles south of
Chihuahua, containing two thousand souls, are mining villages, having
some wealthy European Spaniards, who were the proprietors of the mines,
but who were about to leave the country under the late law of expulsion.
In going from Mapimi to Parras, distance 120 miles, we cross Nassas, a
small river which soon loses itself in a little lake. After crossing
this river we enter extensive plains, as barren as {285} the deserts
of Arabia. It was in these I travelled three successive days, without
being able to procure my horses and mules a single feed, as the country
was literally dried up. At Parras I was delighted with the sudden
change of scene. I should suppose this place and St. Lorenzo, which
are contiguous, might contain six or eight thousand inhabitants, who
cultivate the grape in great abundance, supplying all the adjacent
country as far as Chihuahua and Durango with the articles of wine,
brandy, and all kinds of dried fruit. I here noticed one vineyard, of,
I should judge, 250 acres, owned by a young widow, which, together with
the other farming departments, occupied 200 laborers the year round.
From this place to Saltillio, distance 140 miles, we passed over a
broken and mostly sterile country. This is the tract purchased by the
house of Baring, London; said to contain 140, by not far from 200 miles
square, for which, I was informed by his principal overseer, living
at Pattas, he was to pay a little short of one million dollars, but
had paid 100,000, and refused further payment from some dispute about
the title. The haciendas are all worked under his direction. Saltillio
is situated at the head of a large valley, affording a beautiful
landscape, it being surrounded by a chain of picturesque mountains,
which enclose the city, and an expanded series of cultivated farms.
This place, I think something larger than Chihuahua, and better built,
constitutes the Parogue, which is supposed to be the best of its size
within the republic.
A great portion of the population of Saltillio, are civilized Indians.
They occupy a large suburb of the city, and merit no small applause for
their industry and ingenuity. I was delighted while passing their neat
and even elegant cottages. Their little enclosures appeared teeming
with verdure and fruit trees, which bespoke the frugal husbandman. I
was pleased to observe the remarkable difference between the dress of
these natives, and those of Chihuahua.
Here were similar fashions, but under an entirely different aspect;
the Indian women were all clad in blue petticoats, {286} a cotton
_camisas_, with bosom and sleeves ruffled; then thrown gracefully
over a blue and white striped _revoza_ or scarf, all of their own
manufacture. These revozas they likewise manufacture of the common
sewing silk, which they so variegate, as to throw their work, when
finished, into beautiful uniform, fancy figures. These are worth from
thirty to fifty dollars each.--Blankets are also made in a similar
manner and with equal elegance. Their apparatus for each consists of a
little more than a few rods and strings, with one end of their piece
fastened to a permanent stake, set in the ground; while the other is
fastened by a strap, that goes round their waist, that they constitute
at least half of the loom. Their position is that of a tailor, in which
they sit, and fill in the various and beautiful colors, according to
the sample before them.
I here met with several French and American merchants, though none
permanently settled. They were about leaving for Durango and Chihuahua.
I was also visited by an Italian, by the name of Don Jose Rose, who had
resided here for many years. It being Friday, the market was destitute
of meat, but said he, if there is any fish to be had, I shall expect
you to dine with me; and I will let you know accordingly. It was not
long before word came, that I should be expected precisely at 12
o'clock, and to bring my comrade with me. Accordingly, I waited on him
at the time appointed, and sat down to a dinner served up in excellent
style; and it concluded with a desert and wines of excellent quality.
This gentleman (some forty-five years of age) had never seen proper to
change a state of celibacy for that of a matrimonial life; but chose to
govern alone his peaceful domicil in single blessedness.
From Saltillio to Montelrey, 60 or 70 miles distance, we pass Rinconada
and Santa Catarina, which are small villages. The country is quite
broken, rocky and sterile. At Montelrey, I remained eight or ten
days. This place is about the same importance as Saltillio; but not
quite so populous.[140] They are both mostly built of stone; at this
place the mountains diminish; and extensive valleys commence, here
was a great abundance of {287} oranges and lemons in their prime. In
its vicinity the cane is cultivated largely, which supplies all the
country to Santa Fe with the article of sugar. It was worth at this
place from five to six cents per lb. according to quality. I also found
several French and American merchants residing here, who spoke of it
as only a tolerable place for business. I also became acquainted with
Col. Guttierez, former governor of Tamulipas, who now resides here
in command over the troops. He spoke of himself, as having been the
principal agent in the proscription of the Emperor Iturbide,[141] which
proceedings he gave me in detail; his appearance and manner clearly
indicate military enthusiasm and promptitude of decision. His volatile
and unsophisticated look and manner, reminded me of the celebrated
_Ringtail Panther of Missouri_. He certainly managed with great energy
at that eventful crisis, when the fate of the nation depended on the
decision of a moment.
From Montelrey to the coast the country lies exceedingly level,
abounding more or less with musquito bushes, black ebony, and many
other shrubs. In most part of the route the palm tree abounds, but
they are much larger from Saltillio east.--This tree seems to be of a
character, partaking of the shrub and plant in point of consistence,
and general appearance, growing from six to thirty feet high. The
Maguey, is a plant, that grows in many parts spontaneously, and from
which they derive a liquor, called _pulk_, which is much used in large
cities. They obtain this juice, by cutting off the plant, which is
from six inches to eighteen in diameter; and at the same time they
so excavate the stump, as that it will retain the juice, as it exudes
upwards. This is afterwards laded out, and suffered to ferment for use.
It is of this juice they make a kind of whiskey, called _vino meschal_.
Between Montelrey and the Rio del Norte, we passed a few small
villages, of which Cadarota was the most considerable, it being a great
sugar region. At Quemargo, we struck the del Norte, which I last saw at
El Passo, more than a thousand miles above. A great part of the river
between these two points traverses {288} a savage country. Quemargo
is something more than one hundred miles from the sea, and from which
place to Matamoras it is thinly settled.
The village of Matamoras, formerly called Refugio, is forty miles from
the harbour of Brassos Santiago;[142] and stands immediately on the
bank of the river, and is said to contain ten thousand inhabitants;
but, I should think, not more than eight thousand. There are some two
hundred Americans and French in this place, most of whom are merchants
and mechanics. They have erected several very good brick buildings,
and the place begins to wear the aspect of enterprise. There is a
company or two of Mexican troops stationed here, which make great ado
about nothing. A portion of them are kept at the Brassos, to protect
the Custom-House, and prevent smuggling. But Americans have seen too
much territory, to be deterred from saving 3 1/2 per cent. either by
stratagem or by bribery; both of which are easily practised with the
unconscionable Spaniard. In fact the American party is so strong in
that place, that they do as they please. The consul (Daniel W. Smith)
has great influence among them; as, whatever he says is law and gospel.
In regard to the harbour, it is both ample and safe, when once entered;
but of dangerous entrance, owing to the channel being shallow, say six
or eight feet water. It nevertheless commands considerable commerce
during the year. There has been little exported from this port, except
during the last two or three years. Since that, it has consisted mostly
of passengers and their money: many of the European Spaniards embarked
from this port, carrying with them large fortunes of silver and gold,
on which the ship masters impose a tax of one per cent. They likewise
export some hides, horns, mules, ebony, and some colouring woods. But
these exports bear but a small proportion to the amount of specie taken
out.
DOWNFALL OF THE FREDONIAN REPUBLIC[143]
We were removed scarcely a hundred miles from the scene, where was
witnessed, during the past winter, the downfall of the Fredonian
republic. The crash, however appalling in our ears, at that distance,
was hardly heard at Washington, and if some better historian than
ourselves, do not take the matter in hand, we fear that this
catastrophe will perish from history. Although we do not expect the
fame, and do not gird ourselves for the task of the historian of '_the
decline and fall of the Roman Empire_,' yet it was no unimportant
business of the _original fifteen_, who upreared the pillars of this
short lived empire.