contents, filled it with water, and accompanied by one companion, who
had also filled his powder horn, I returned towards my father and Mr.
Slover, his exhausted companion, with a quick step. We found them in
the same position in which we had left them, that is, stretched on the
sand at full length, under the unclouded blaze of the sun, and both
fast asleep; a sleep from which, but for our relief, I believe they
would neither of them ever have awakened. Their lips were black, and
their parched mouths wide open. Their unmoving posture and their
sunken eyes so resembled death, that I ran in a fright to my father,
thinking him, for a moment, really dead. But he easily awakened,
and drank the refreshing water. My companion {164} at the same time
bestowed his horn of water upon Mr. Slover. In the course of an hour
they were both able to climb the hill, and some time before dark we
rejoined the remainder of our company. They had kindled a large fire,
and all seemed in high spirits. As for our two Indians, they were
singing, and dancing, as it seemed to us, in a sort of worship of
thankfulness to the Great Spirit, who had led them through so much
peril and toil to these refreshing waters. We roasted some of our
beaver meat, and took food for the first time in forty-eight hours,
that is to say, from the time we left our Indian friends, until we
reached this water. Our Dutchman insisted that the plain over which we
passed, should be named the devil's plain, for he insisted, that it was
more hotter as hell, and that none but teyvils could live upon it. In
fact, it seemed a more fitting abode for fiends, than any living thing
that belongs to our world. During our passage across it, we saw not
a single bird, nor the track of any quadruped, or in fact any thing
that had life, not even a sprig, weed or grass blade, except a single
shrubby tree, under which we found a little shade. This shrub, though
of some height, resembled a prickly pear, and was covered thick with
thorns. The prickly pears were in such abundance, that we were often,
dazzled as our eyes were with the sun's brightness, puzzled to find a
path so as neither to torment our feet or our bodies with the thorns of
these hated natives of the burning sands. This very extensive plain,
the Sahara of California, runs north and south, and is bounded on each
side by high barren mountains, some of which are covered with perpetual
snow.
On the 28th, we travelled up this creek about three miles, and killed
a deer, which much delighted our two Indian guides. At this point we
encamped for the night. Here are abundance of palm trees and live oaks,
and considerable of mascal. We remained until the 3d of March, when
we marched up this creek, which heads to the south, forming a low gap
in the mountain. On the 7th, we arrived at the point, and found some
of the Christian Indians from the Mission of St. Catharine. They were
roasting mascal and the tender inside heads of the {165} palm trees for
food, which, when prepared and cooked after their fashion, becomes a
very agreeable food. From these Indians we learned that we were within
four days' travel of the mission mentioned above.
Here we concluded to discharge our guides, and travel into the
settlement with the Christian Indians. We gave them each a blanket, and
they started back to their own people on the morning of the 8th. At
the same time we commenced our journey with our new guides, and began
to climb the mountain. This is so exceedingly lofty, as to require
two days' travel and a half to gain its summit. During this ascent, I
severely bruised my heel. We none of us wore any thing to shield our
feet from the bare and sharp rocks, which composed almost the whole
surface of this ascent, but thin deer skin moccasins. Obliged to walk
on tip toe, and in extreme anguish, the severe fatigue of scrambling
up sharp stones was any thing, rather than agreeable. But I summoned
patience and courage to push on until the 12th. My leg then became so
swollen and inflamed that it was out of my power to travel farther.
The pain was so severe as to create fever. I lay myself down on the
side of a sharp rock, resigning myself to my fate, and determined to
make no effort to travel further, until I felt relieved. My companions
all joined with my father, in encouraging me to rise, and make an
effort to reach the mission, which they represented to be but three
miles distant. It was out of the question for me to think of it, and
they concluded to go to the settlement, and obtain a horse, and send
out for me. I kindled me a fire, for I suffered severe chills. The
Indians gave me the strictest caution against allowing myself to go to
sleep in their absence. The reason they assigned for their caution was
a substantial one. The grizzly bear, they said, was common on these
mountains, and would attack and devour me, unless I kept on my guard.
I paid little attention to their remarks at the time. But when they
were gone, and I was left alone, I examined the priming, and picked the
flints of my gun and pistol. I then lay down and slept, until sometime
in the early part of the night, when {166} two Indians came out from
the settlement, and informed me that the corporal of the guards at
St. Catharines[97] wished me to come in. Being feverish, stiff, sore
and withal testy, I gave them and their corporal no very civil words.
They said that the corporal only wanted me to come in, because he was
afraid the grizzly bears would kill me. I asked them why they did not
bring a horse for me? They informed me, that the Mission had none at
disposal at that time, but that they would carry me on their backs. So
I was obliged to avail myself of this strange conveyance, and mounted
the back of one of them while the other carried my arms. In this way
they carried me in, where I found my companions in a guard house. I was
ordered to enter with them by a swarthy looking fellow, who resembled a
negro, rather than a white.
I cannot describe the indignation I felt at this revolting breach of
humanity to people in suffering, who had thrown themselves on the
kindness and protection of these Spaniards. We related the reasons
why we had come in after this manner. We showed them our passport,
which certified to them, that we were neither robbers, murderers, nor
spies. To all this their only reply was, how should they know whether
we had come clandestinely, and with improper views, or not? Against
this question, proposed by such people, all reasonings were thrown
away.--The cowardly and worthless are naturally cruel. We were thrown
completely in their power; and instead of that circumstance exciting
any generous desires to console and relieve us, their only study seemed
to be to vex, degrade, and torment us.
Here we remained a week, living on corn mush, which we received once
a day; when a guard of soldiers came to conduct us from this place.
This mission is situated in a valley, surrounded by high mountains,
with beautiful streams of water flowing from them. The natives raise
sufficient corn and wheat to serve for the subsistence of the mission.
The mission establishment is built in a quadrangular form; all the
houses forming the quadrangle contiguous to each other; and one of the
angles is a large church, adjoining which are the habitations of {167}
the priests; though at this time there happened to be none belonging to
this at home. The number of Indians belonging to the mission at this
time, was about five hundred. They were destitute of stock, on account
of its having been plundered from them by the free, wild Indians of the
desert. The air is very cool and temperate, and hard frosts are not
uncommon. This cool temperature of the atmosphere I suppose to be owing
to the immediate proximity of the snowy mountains.
On the 18th, we started under the conduct of a file of soldiers, who
led us two days' travel, over very high mountains, a south west course,
to another mission, called St. Sebastian, situated near the sea coast,
in a delightful valley, surrounded, like the other, by lofty mountains,
the sides of which present magnificent views of the ocean. This mission
contains six hundred souls. This mission establishment, though much
richer and neater than the other, is, however, built on a precisely
similar plan. Here they have rich vineyards, and raise a great variety
of the fruits of almost all climates. They also raise their own
supplies of grain, and have a tolerable abundance of stock, both of the
larger and smaller kinds.
A serjeant has the whole military command. We found him of a dark and
swarthy complexion, though a man of tolerable information. He seemed
disposed to conduct towards us with some courtesy and kindness. He
saluted us with politeness, conducted us to the guard house, and begged
us to content ourselves, as well as we could, until he could make
some more satisfactory arrangements for our comfort and convenience.
To put him to the proof of his professed kindness, we told him that
we were very hungry. They soon had a poor steer killed, that reeled
as it walked, and seemed sinking by natural decay. A part of the blue
flesh was put boiling in one pot, and a parcel of corn in the other.
The whole process reminded me strongly of the arrangements which we
make in Kentucky, to prepare a mess for a diseased cow. When this
famous feast was cooked, we were marched forth into the yard, in great
ceremony, to eat it. All the men, women and children clustered round
us, and {168} stood staring at us while we were eating, as though they
had been at a menagerie to see some wild and unknown animals.--When
we were fairly seated to our pots, and began to discuss the contents,
disgusted alike with the food, with them, and their behaviour, we could
not forbear asking them whether they really took us to be human beings,
or considered us as brutes? They looked at each other a moment, as if
to reflect and frame an answer, and then replied coolly enough, that
not being Christians, they considered us little superior to brutes.
To this we replied, with a suitable mixture of indignation and scorn,
that we considered ourselves better Christians than they were, and
that if they did not give us something to eat more befitting men, we
would take our guns, live where we pleased, and eat venison and other
good things, where we chose. This was not mere bravado, for, to our
astonishment, we were still in possession of our arms. We had made no
resistance to their treating us as prisoners, as we considered them
nothing more than petty and ignorant officers, whom we supposed to have
conducted improperly, from being unacquainted with their duty. We were
all confident, that as soon as intelligence of our arrival should reach
the commanding officer of this station, and how we had been detained,
and treated as prisoners, we should not only be released from prison,
but recompensed for our detention.
This determination of ours appeared to alarm them. The information
of our menaces, no doubt with their own comments, soon reached the
serjeant. He immediately came to see us, while we were yet at our
pots, and enquired of us, what was our ground of complaint and
dissatisfaction? We pointed to the pots, and asked him if he thought
such food becoming the laws of hospitality to such people? He stepped
up to the pots, and turning over the contents, and examining them with
his fingers, enquired in an angry tone, who had served up such food
to us? He added, that it was not fit to give a dog, and that he would
punish those who had procured it. He comforted us, by assuring us that
we should have something fit to eat cooked for us. We immediately
returned quietly to the guard house. But a {169} short time ensued
before he sent us a good dish of fat mutton, and some tortillas. This
was precisely the thing our appetites craved, and we were not long in
making a hearty meal. After we had fed to our satisfaction, he came
to visit us, and interrogated us in what manner, and with what views
we had visited the country? We went into clear, full and satisfactory
details of information in regard to every thing that could have any
interest to him, as an officer; and told him that our object was to
purchase horses, on which we might return to our own country; and that
we wished him to intercede in our behalf with the commander in chief,
that we might have permission to purchase horses and mules among them,
for this purpose. He promised to do this, and returned to his apartment.
The amount of his promise was, that he would reflect upon the subject,
and in the course of four days write to his commander, from whom he
might expect an answer in a fortnight.--When we sounded him as to the
probability of such a request being granted, he answered with apparent
conviction, that he had no doubt that it would be in our favor. As our
hopes were intensely fixed upon this issue, we awaited this answer
with great anxiety. The commander at this time was at the port of San
Diego. During this period of our suspense, we had full liberty to hunt
deer in the woods, and gather honey from the blossoms of the Mascal,
which grows plentifully on the sea shore. Every thing in this strange
and charming country being new, we were continually contemplating
curiosities of every sort, which quieted our solicitude, and kept alive
the interest of our attention.
We used to station ourselves on the high pinnacles of the cliffs, on
which this vast sea pours its tides, and the retreating or advancing
tide showed us the strange sea monsters of that ocean, such as seals,
sea otters, sea elephants, whales, sharks, sword fish, and various
other unshapely sea dwellers. Then we walked on the beach, and examined
the infinite variety of sea shells, all new and strange to us.
Thus we amused ourselves, and strove to kill the time until the 20th,
when the answer of the commander arrived, which {170} explained itself
at once, by a guard of soldiers, with orders to conduct us to the port
of San Diego, where he then resided. We were ordered to be in immediate
readiness to start for that port. This gave us unmingled satisfaction,
for we had an undoubting confidence, that when we should really have
attained the presence of an officer whom we supposed a gentleman, and
acting independently of the authority of others, he would make no
difficulty in granting a request so reasonable as ours. We started on
the 2d, guarded by sixteen soldiers and a corporal. They were all on
horseback, and allowed us occasionally to ride, when they saw us much
fatigued. Our first day's journey was a north course, over very rough
mountains, and yet, notwithstanding this, we made twenty-five miles
distance on our way.
At night we arrived at another mission, situated like the former, on
a charming plain. The mission is called St. Thomas.[98] These wise
and holy men mean to make sure of the rich and pleasant things of the
earth, as well as the kingdom of heaven. They have large plantations,
with splendid orchards and vineyards. The priest who presides over
this establishment, told me that he had a thousand Indians under his
care. During every week in the year, they kill thirty beeves for the
subsistence of the mission. The hides and tallow they sell to vessels
that visit their coast, in exchange for such goods as they need.
On the following morning, we started early down this valley, which
led us to the sea shore, along which we travelled the remainder of
the day. This beautiful plain skirts the sea shore, and extends back
from it about four miles. This was literally covered with horses and
cattle belonging to the mission. The eye was lost beyond this handsome
plain in contemplating an immeasurable range of mountains, which we
were told thronged with wild horses and cattle, which often descend
from their mountains to the plains, and entice away the domesticated
cattle with them. The wild oats and clover grow spontaneously, and in
great luxuriance, and were now knee high. In the evening we arrived
at the port of Todos Santos, and there passed the night. Early on the
23d, we marched on. This day we {171} travelled over some tracts that
were very rough, and arrived at a mission situated immediately on the
sea board, called St. Michael.[99] Like the rest, it was surrounded
with splendid orchards, vineyards and fields; and was, for soil,
climate and position, all that could be wished. The old superintending
priest of the establishment showed himself very friendly, and equally
inquisitive. He invited us to sup with him, an invitation we should
not be very likely to refuse. We sat down to a large table, elegantly
furnished with various dishes of the country, all as usual highly
seasoned. Above all, the supply of wines was various and abundant. The
priest said grace at the close, when fire and cigars were brought in
by the attendants, and we began to smoke. We sat and smoked, and drank
wine, until 12 o'clock. The priest informed us that the population of
his mission was twelve hundred souls, and the weekly consumption, fifty
beeves, and a corresponding amount of grain. The mission possessed
three thousand head of domesticated and tamed horses and mules. From
the droves which I saw in the plains, I should not think this an
extravagant estimation. In the morning he presented my father a saddle
mule, which he accepted, and we started.
This day's travel still carried us directly along the verge of the sea
shore, and over a plain equally rich and beautiful with that of the
preceding day. We amused ourselves with noting the spouting of the
huge whales, which seemed playing near the strand for our especial
amusement. We saw other marine animals and curiosities to keep our
interest in the journey alive. In the evening we arrived at a Ranch,
called Buenos Aguos, or Good Water, where we encamped for the night.
We started early on the 25th, purchasing a sheep of a shepherd, for
which we paid him a knife. At this Ranch they kept thirty thousand head
of sheep, belonging to the mission which we had left. We crossed a
point of the mountain that made into the water's edge. On the opposite
side of this mountain was another Ranch, where we staid the night.
This Ranch is for the purposes of herding horses and cattle, of which
{172} they have vast numbers. On the 26th, our plain lay outstretched
before us as beautiful as ever. In the evening we came in sight of
San Diego, the place where we were bound.[100] In this port was one
merchant vessel, which we were told was from the United States, the
ship Franklin, of Boston. We had then arrived within about a league of
the port. The corporal who had charge of us here, came and requested us
to give up our arms, informing us, it was the customary request to all
strangers; and that it was expected that our arms would be deposited in
the guard house before we could speak with the commander, or general.
We replied, that we were both able and disposed to carry our arms to
the guard house ourselves, and deposite them there if such was our
pleasure, at our own choice. He replied that we could not be allowed
to do this, for that we were considered as prisoners, and under his
charge; and that he should become responsible in his own person, if he
should allow us to appear before the general, bearing our own arms.
This he spoke with a countenance of seriousness, which induced us to
think that he desired no more in this request than the performance of
his duty. We therefore gave him up our rifles, not thinking that this
was the last time we should have the pleasure of shouldering these
trusty friends. Having unburdened ourselves of our defence, we marched
on again, and arrived, much fatigued, at the town at 3 o'clock in the
evening. Our arms were stacked on the side of the guard house, and we
threw our fatigued bodies as near them as we could, on the ground.
An officer was dispatched to the general to inform him of our arrival,
and to know whether we could have an immediate audience or not? In a
short time the officer returned with an answer for us, that we must
remain where we were until morning, when the general would give us a
hearing. We were still sanguine in seeing only omens of good. We forgot
our past troubles, opened our bosom to hope, and resigned ourselves to
profound sleep. It is true, innumerable droves of fleas performed their
evolutions, and bit all their pleasure upon our bodies.--{173} But so
entire was our repose, that we scarcely turned for the night. No dreams
of what was in reserve for us the following day floated across our
minds; though in the morning my body was as spotted as though I had the
measles, and my shirt specked with innumerable stains of blood, let by
the ingenious lancets of these same Spanish fleas.
On the 27th, at eight A.M., we were ushered into the general's office,
with our hats in our hands, and he began his string of interrogations.
The first question was, who we were? We answered, Americans. He
proceeded to ask us, how we came on the coast, what was our object,
and had we a passport? In answer to these questions we again went
over the story of our misfortunes. We then gave him the passport
which we had received from the governor of Santa Fe. He examined this
instrument, and with a sinister and malicious smile, observed, that
he believed nothing of all this, but considered us worse than thieves
and murderers; in fact, that he held us to be spies for the old
Spaniards, and that our business was to lurk about the country, that
we might inspect the weak and defenceless points of the frontiers, and
point them out to the Spaniards, in order that they might introduce
their troops into the country; but that he would utterly detect us,
and prevent our designs.--This last remark he uttered with a look of
vengeance; and then reperused the passport, which he tore in pieces,
saying, it was no passport, but a vile forgery of our own contrivance.
Though amazed and confounded at such an unexpected charge, we firmly
asserted our innocence in regard to any of the charges brought against
us. We informed him that we were born and bred thorough and full
blooded republicans; and that there was not a man of us who would not
prefer to die, rather than to be the spies and instruments of the
Spanish king, or any other king; and that but a few years since, we
had all been engaged in fighting the forces of a king, allied with
savages, and sent against the country of our home; and that on this
very expedition we had been engaged in a great many battles with the
Indians, hostile to his people, redeeming their captives, {174} and
punishing their robberies and murders. In distress, and in want of
every thing from the robbery of these hostile Indians, we had taken
refuge in his country, and claimed its protection. We told him we
considered it an unworthy return for such general deportment, and
such particular services to their country, that we should be viewed
as spies, and treated as prisoners. He stopped us in the midst of our
plea, apparently through fear that representations, which must have
carried conviction to his prejudiced mind, might tend to soften his
obdurate heart, and unnerve his purpose towards us. He told us he did
not wish to hear any more of our long speeches, which he considered no
better than lies; for that if we had been true and bona fide citizens
of the United States, we should not have left our country without a
passport, and the certificate of our chief magistrate. We replied
that the laws of our country did not require that honest, common
citizens, should carry passports; that it did not interfere with the
individual business and pursuits of private individuals; that such
persons went abroad and returned unnoted by the government; and in
all well regulated states, sufficiently protected by the proof that
they were citizens of the United States; but that there were in our
country two classes of people, for whom passports were necessary,
slaves and soldiers; that for the slave it was necessary to have one,
to certify that he was travelling with the knowledge and permission of
his master; and for the soldier, to show that he was on furlough, or
otherwise abroad with the permission of his officer. As we spoke this
with emphasis, and firmness, he told us that he had had enough of our
falsehoods, and begged us to be quiet. He ordered us to be remanded to
our prison, and was immediately obeyed.