when it ran down, until we arrived at the point where it ceased to
flow. We then applied our oars, and with the help of setting-poles,
and at times the aid of a cordelle, we stemmed the current at the rate
of one, and sometimes two miles an hour, until the tenth of February,
when we met a great rise of the river, and found the current so strong,
that we had no power to stem it in any way. So we concluded to abandon
our canoes, come to shore, bury our furs, and make our way across
the peninsula to the coast of California, which we thought from the
information of the Indians, could not be very distant.
On the 16th, we completed the burying of our furs, and started on foot
with our packs on our backs. The contents of these {153} packs were two
blankets for each man, a considerable quantity of dried beaver meat,
and a rifle with the ammunition. Our first day's journey was through a
country to the last degree trying to our strength and patience. It was
through the river bottom, which was thick set with low, scrubby brush,
interwoven with tall grass, vines and creepers. The making our way
through these was excessively slavish and fatiguing. We had a single
alleviation. There was plenty of fresh water to drink. We were so
fatigued at night, that sleep was irresistible. The weather was warm,
and we kindled no fire, through fear of the savages. We started on the
morning of the 18th, all complaining much of stiffness and soreness of
our limbs. We had been unused to walking for a great length of time;
and this commencement was a rude experiment of resuming the habit. At
two in the afternoon, we reached the edge of a large salt plain, which
runs parallel with the river. Here we struck a north west course, and
travelled the remainder of this hot and fatiguing day without finding
any water. We began to suffer severely from thirst. The earth, also,
was so loose and sandy, that at every step we sank up to our ankles,
the sun beaming down a fierce radiance the while; which made it seem
as if the heavens and the earth were on fire. Our tongues became so
parched, that not a particle of moisture flowed into our mouths. In
this miserable and forlorn condition, abandoned by strength, courage
and hope, we found some little alleviation of our misery, when the
blaze of the sun was gone, and the cool night enabled us to throw down
our weary and exhausted bodies under its dewy shade.
We made an early start in the morning, and pushed on as men, as thirsty
as we were, naturally would, in the hope of finding water, until two
in the afternoon. What a sight of joy! I have no words to express our
delight at the sight of a little lake before us. We sprang greedily
to it. The water was salt, too salt to be drank! Not the slightest
indication of any other water course, or any omen of fresh water
was any where in view. Far in the distance a snow-covered mountain
glittered in the {154} sun, and on the opposite shore of this salt
lake, and at a distance of three or four miles from it, rose some hills
of considerable height. We thought that from the summit of these hills
we might possibly discover some water. We gathered dry flags, of which
there was a great abundance about us, and made a kind of raft, on which
each one of us put his pack, and swam the lake, pushing the little
rafts that carried our packs, before us. The lake is about two hundred
yards wide, and contains a great variety of fish. In length the lake
stretches north and south, bounded on each shore with high, level and
well timbered land, though apparently affording no fresh water.
When we reached the west shore of the lake, we saw fresh Indian
foot-prints in the sand. This assured us, that there was water at no
great distance. One of our company and myself started and ascended the
highest peak of the hills in our view. We were not long in descrying
a smoke in the south, at the distance of about ten miles. This sight
gave us great courage and hope; for we felt assured that there must be
water between us and the Indian camp. In a moment we started back with
a vigorous step, to inform our companions, who were resting themselves
under the shade of a tree. The information re-animated them, as it
had us. We all shouldered our packs with a degree of alacrity, and
pushed on toward the smoke.--We arrived about three in the afternoon
on a small mound, within a quarter of a mile of the Indians. We could
distinctly number them, and found them between forty and fifty in
number, and their women and children were with them.
Here again was anxious ground of debate, what course we should pursue?
should we attempt the long and uncertain course of conciliation, before
the accomplishment of which we might perish with thirst? or should we
rush among them, and buy the delicious element which we had full in
view, at the hazard of our lives? Men as thirsty as we were, would be
likely to fix upon the latter alternative, and we did so. We examined
our arms to see that we were prepared to attack, or repel, according
to circumstances, determined to fire upon them, if they {155} showed
either a disposition for fight, or to keep us from the water.
We were within a hundred and fifty yards of them before they perceived
us. As soon as they saw us they all fled to the bushes, men, women and
children, as though satan was behind them. We had no disposition to
arrest them, but rushed forward to the water, and began to slake our
burning thirst. My father immediately cautioned us against drinking too
much, pointing out at the same time the hurtful consequences. But men
have always proved themselves slow to resist their appetites at the
command of their reason. Most of us overloaded our empty stomachs with
water, and soon became as sick as death. After vomiting, however, we
were relieved. My father told us that we had better stand to our arms;
for that the Indians had probably only fled to hide their women and
children, and prepare themselves to return and fight us.
Scarcely had he finished these remarks, when we discovered them bearing
down upon us, painted as black as a thunder cloud, and yelling like so
many fiends. Some of them were armed with clubs, some with bows and
arrows. We all arranged ourselves to receive them, behind the top of
a large fallen tree. When they were within rifle shot, we made signs
to them to halt, or that otherwise we should fire upon them. They
comprehended us, halted and ceased yelling, as though they wished
to hear what we had to say. We made signs that we were friendly. At
this they gazed in apparent confusion of thought, and seemed to be
questioning each other, touching the meaning of our signs. These signs
we continued to repeat. At length one of them called aloud in Spanish,
and asked us who we were? How delightful were these sounds! We answered
_Americans_. They repeated the name, asking us if we were friendly and
Christians? To these questions we made a ready affirmative. They then
proposed a treaty with us. Nothing could be more agreeable to us. At
the same time we perceived that only eight of their people came to
us, and the remainder of their company kept back. These eight that
seemed to be their chief {156} men, advanced to us, while the rest,
with extreme anxiety painted upon their countenances, stood ready for
action. We all sat down on the ground, and commenced talking. They
enquired with great precision, who we were, whence we came, how we
arrived here, what was our object, and whether we had met with any
misfortunes? We answered these questions to their satisfaction; and
soon the pipe was lit, and we commenced smoking. They then dug a hole
in the ground, in which they buried their war axe, and professed to
deposite all ill feelings with it. The Indian of their number, who
spoke the Spanish language, was a fugitive from the Mission of St.
Catherine.--Threatened with the punishment of some misdemeanor, he had
fled from the establishment.
After we had finished smoking, they asked us if the remainder of their
number might not come and converse with us. This we objected to, unless
they would bring their women and children with them. To this order they
expressed great reluctance. This reluctance by no means tended to allay
our previous jealousy of their pretended friendship. We asked them
their reasons for being unwilling to bring their women and children?
They answered promptly that they did not feel it safe to put their
women and children in our power, until they were more acquainted with
us. There seemed reason in this. We observed, that their men might
come, provided they would leave their arms behind. To this they readily
assented, and called out to their men to come on, leaving their arms
behind. A part of them seemingly much delighted, threw down their arms
and came on. The remainder equally dissatisfied, wheeled about, and
walked moodily away.
The new comers sat down in a circle round us. The pipe was again lit
and circled round. Again the terms of the treaty were repeated, and
they all expressed their satisfaction with them. They observed, that
their head chief was absent, at the distance of two day's journey
to the south, that in three or four days he would come and see us,
desiring us to remain with them until he should come. Nothing could be
more opportune for {157} us, for we were all excessively fatigued, and
needed a few days rest. After this they went and brought their women
and children, who, like the other Indians we had seen, were all stark
naked. At first they were excessively shy of us. This shyness wore off,
and in the course of the day changed to an eager curiosity to examine
us, and an admiration of our red flannel shirts, and the white skin
_under them_; for little show of whiteness was to be seen in our faces.
They soon ventured close to us, and with their own hands opened our
bosoms, uttering exclamations of curiosity and admiration, especially
on feeling the softness of our skins, in comparison of theirs. They
certainly seemed to prefer our complexion to theirs, notwithstanding it
had not the stamp of their fashion.
At length they made up to one of our companions, who was of a
singularly light complexion, fair soft skin, and blue eyes. They wanted
him to strip himself naked that they might explore him thoroughly,
for they seemed to be doubtful of his being alike white in every part
of his body. This, but as mildly as possible, he refused to do. They
went off and brought a quantity of dried fish of excellent quality,
and presented him. We persuaded him to oblige these curious and good
natured women, by giving them a full view of his body. He was persuaded
to strip to his skin. This delighted them, and they conversed and
laughed among themselves, and they came one by one and stood beside
him; so as to compare their bodies with his. After this, as long as we
staid, they were constantly occupied in bringing us cooked fish and the
vegetables and roots on which they are accustomed to feed. On the 25th,
the head chief came. He was a venerable looking man, whom I judged to
be about fifty years old. His countenance was thoughtful and serious,
and his hair a little gray. At his return his people greeted him with
an acclamation of yells, that made the wild desert echo. The pipe was
lit, and we all sat down by him and smoked again. He was a man of but
few words, but of sound judgment. After the smoking was finished, he
asked us the same questions which had been asked us before. We {158}
made him similar answers, adding, that we wanted to travel to the
Spanish settlements and purchase horses, upon which we might ride
home to our own country, and that we would pay him well if he would
send some of his men to guide us to those settlements. He asked us in
reply, what we had to give him? We showed him our blankets, and he
expressed himself delighted with them, observing at the same time, that
he would have preferred to have had red cloth. On this we pulled off
our red shirts and stripped them into small pieces like ribbons, and
distributed them among the people. They tied the strips round their
legs, arms and heads, and seemed as much overjoyed with these small
tatters of worn red flannel, as we should have been, to have brought
our furs to a good market among our own people. In giving away our
red shirts, we gave away, what in this warm climate was to us wholly
unnecessary. To carry our blankets on our backs was a useless burden.
We gave two of them to the chief. The two guides that he was to send
with us we were to pay after our arrival at the Spanish settlements.
These points of contract between us were settled to the mutual
satisfaction of all.
We started on the 26th, with our two guides, neither of whom could
speak Spanish, and of course we had nothing to do but follow them in
silence. We struck off a south west course, which led in the direction
of the snow covered mountain, which still loomed up in its brightness
before us. Our guides made signs that we should arrive at the foot
about midnight, though the distance appeared to us to be too great
to be travelled over in so short a time. We were yet to learn, that
we should find no water, until we drank that of the melted snow. We
perceived, however, that their travelling gait, worn as we were,
was more rapid than ours. We pushed on as fast as we could a league
further, when we were impeded by a high hill in our way, which was
about another league to the summit, and very precipitous and steep.
When we reached the top of it we were much exhausted, and began to be
thirsty. We could then see the arid salt plain stretching all the way
from the foot of this hill to the snow covered mountains.
{159} We thought it inexpedient to enquire of our guides, if there was
no water to be found between us and the mountain. It appeared but too
probable, that such was the fact. To know it to a certainty, would only
tend to unnerve and dishearten us. If there was any, we were aware that
we should reach it by travelling no more distance than as if we knew
the fact. We found it best to encourage the little hope that remained,
and hurried on through the drifted sand, in which we sank up to our
ankles at every step. The cloudless sun poured such a blaze upon it,
that by the scorching of our feet, it might have seemed almost hot
enough to roast eggs in. What with the fierce sun and the scorching
sand, and our extreme fatigue, the air seemed soon to have extracted
every particle of moisture from our bodies. In this condition we
marched on until nearly the middle of the day, without descrying any
indication of water in any quarter. A small shrubby tree stood in our
way, affording a tolerable shade. We laid ourselves down to get a few
minutes rest. The Indians sternly beckoned us to be up and onward, now
for the first time clearly explaining to us, that there was no water
until we reached the mountains in view. This unseasonable and yet
necessary information, extinguished the last remainder of our hope, and
we openly expressed our fears that we should none of us ever reach it.
We attempted to chew tobacco. It would raise no moisture. We took our
bullets in our mouths, and moved them round to create a moisture, to
relieve our parched throats. We had travelled but a little farther
before our tongues had became so dry and swollen, that we could
scarcely speak so as to be understood. In this extremity of nature, we
should, perhaps, have sunk voluntarily, had not the relief been still
in view on the sides of the snow covered mountains. We resorted to one
expedient to moisten our lips, tongue and throat, disgusting to relate,
and still more disgusting to adopt. In such predicaments it has been
found, that nature disburdens people of all conditions of ceremony and
disgust. Every thing bends to the devouring thirst, and the love of
life. The application of this {160} hot and salt liquid seemed rather
to enrage than appease the torturing appetite. Though it offered such
a semblance of what would satisfy thirst, that we economized every
particle. Our amiable Dutchman was of a sweetness of temper, that was
never ruffled, and a calmness and patience that appeared proof against
all events. At another time, what laughter would have circulated
through our camp, to hear him make merry of this expedient! As it was,
even in this horrible condition, a faint smile circulated through our
company, as he discussed his substitute for drink. 'Vell, mine poys,
dis vater of mein ish more hotter as hell, und as dick as boudden, und
more zalter as de zeas. I can't drink him. For Cod's sake, gif me some
of yours, dat is more tinner.'
Having availed ourselves to the utmost of this terrible expedient,
we marched on in company a few miles further. Two of our companions
here gave out, and lay down under the shade of a bush. Their tongues
were so swollen, and their eyes so sunk in their heads, that they were
a spectacle to behold. We were scarcely able, from the condition of
our own mouths, to bid them an articulate farewell. We never expected
to see them again, and none of us had much hope of ever reaching the
mountain, which still raised its white summit at a great distance from
us. It was with difficulty that we were enabled to advance one foot
before the other. Our limbs, our powers, even our very resolutions
seemed palsied. A circumstance that added to our distress, was the
excessive and dazzling brightness of the sun's rays, so reflected
in our eyes from the white sand that we were scarcely able to see
our way before us, or in what direction to follow our guides. They,
accustomed to go naked, and to traverse these burning deserts, and be
unaffected by such trials, appeared to stand the heat and drought,
like camels on the Arabian sands. They, however, tried by their looks
and gestures to encourage us, and induce us to quicken our pace. But
it was to no purpose. However, we still kept moving onward, and had
gained a few miles more, when night brought us shelter at least from
the insupportable radiance of the sun, and something of coolness and
moisture.
{161} But it was so dark, that neither we or our guides could discover
the course. We stopped, and made a large fire, that our companions,
if yet living, and able to move, might see where we were, and how to
direct their own course to reach us. We also fired some guns, which,
to our great relief and pleasure, they answered by firing off theirs.
We still repeated firing guns at intervals, until they came up with
us. They supposed that we had found water, which invigorated their
spirits to such a degree, that it aroused them to the effort they had
made. When they had arrived, and found that we had reached no water,
they appeared to be angry, and to complain that we had disturbed their
repose with false hopes, and had hindered their dying in peace. One
of them in the recklessness of despair, drew from his package a small
phial, half full of laudanum, and drank it off, I suppose in the hope
of sleeping himself quietly to death. We all expected it would have
that effect. On the contrary, in a few moments he was exhilarated, like
a man in a state of intoxication. He was full of talk, and laughter,
and gaiety of heart. He observed, that he had taken it in hopes that
it would put him to sleep, never to wake again, but that in fact, it
had made him as well, and as fresh, as in the morning when he started;
but that if he had imagined that it would prove such a sovereign remedy
for thirst, he would cheerfully have shared it with us. We scraped down
beneath the burning surface of the sand, until we reached the earth
that was a little cool. We then stripped off all our clothing and lay
down. Our two Indians, also lay down beside us, covering themselves
with their blankets. My father bade me lay on the edge of one of
their blankets, so that they could not get up without awakening me.
He was fearful that they would arise, and fly from us in the night. I
implicitly conformed to my father's wish, for had this event happened,
we should all undoubtedly have perished. But the Indians appear to have
meditated no such expedient, at any rate, they lay quiet until morning.
As soon as there was light enough to enable us to travel we started,
much refreshed by the coolness of the night, and the {162} sleep we
had taken. We began our morning march with renewed alacrity. At about
ten in the forenoon we arrived at the foot of a sand hill about a
half a mile in height, and very steep. The side was composed of loose
sand, which gave way under our feet, so that our advancing foot steps
would slide back to their former places. This soon exhausted our
little remaining strength; though we still made many an unavailing
effort to ascend. The sun was now so high, as to beam upon us with the
same insufferable radiance of yesterday. The air which we inhaled,
seemed to scald our lungs. We at length concluded to travel towards
the north, to reach, if we might, some point where the hill was not
so steep to ascend. At two in the afternoon we found a place that was
neither so steep nor so high, and we determined here to attempt to
cross the hill. With great exertions and infinite difficulty, a part
of us gained the summit of the hill; but my father and another of our
company, somewhat advanced in years, gave out below, though they made
the most persevering efforts to reach the summit of the hill with the
rest. Age had stiffened their joints, and laid his palsying hand upon
their once active limbs, and vigorous frames. They could endure this
dreadful journey no longer. They had become so exhausted by fruitless
efforts to climb the hill, that they could no longer drag one foot
after the other. They had each so completely abandoned the hope of ever
reaching the water, or even gaining the summit of the hill, that they
threw themselves on the ground, apparently convinced of their fate, and
resigned to die. I instantly determined to remain with my father, be it
for life or death. To this determination he would by no means consent,
as he remarked it would bring my destruction, without its availing him.
On the contrary, he insisted, that I should go on with the rest, and
if I found any water near at hand, that I should return with my powder
horn full. In this way he assured me, I might be instrumental in saving
my own life, and saving him at the same time. To this I consented, and
with much fatigue gained the summit of the hill, where my companions
were seated waiting for us. They seemed undetermined, {163} whether
to advance onward, or wait for my father, until I related his
determination. My purpose was to proceed onward only so far, as that,
if the Almighty should enable us to reach water, I might be able to
return with a powder horn full to him and Mr. Slover, (for that was the
name of the elderly companion that remained with him.)
This resolution was agreed to by all, as a proper one. Being satisfied
by our consciences as well as by the reasoning of my father and his
companion, that we could render them no service by remaining with them,
except to increase their sufferings by a view of ours; and aware, that
every moment was precious, we pushed on once more for the mountain.
Having descended this hill, we ascended another of the same wearying
ascent, and sandy character with the former. We toiled on to the top
of it. The Eternal Power, who hears the ravens when they cry, and
provideth springs in the wilderness, had had mercy upon us! Imagine
my joy at seeing a clear, beautiful running stream of water, just
below us at the foot of the hill! Such a blissful sight I had never
seen before, and never expect to see again. We all ran down to it, and
fell to drinking. In a few moments nothing was to be heard among us,
but vomiting and groaning. Notwithstanding our mutual charges to be
cautious, we had overcharged our parched stomachs with this cold snow
water.
[Illustration: Messrs. Pattie and Slover rescued from Famish]