IV. Antwerp

There is no port in Europe which holds such a dominant position as

Antwerp, and there is none whose history has involved such amazing

changes of fortune. In the middle of the sixteenth century she was the

foremost city in Europe, at its close she was ruined. For two hundred

years she lay prostrate under the blighting influence of Spain and

Austria, and throttled by the commercial jealousy of England and

Holland. A few weeks ago she was the foremost port on the

Continent, the third in the world; now her wharves stand idle, and she

herself is a prisoner in the hands of the enemy. Who can tell what the

next turn of the wheel will bring?

Placed centrally between north and south, on a deep and wide river,

Antwerp is the natural outlet of Central Europe towards the West, and

it is no wonder that four hundred years ago she gathered to herself

the commerce of the Netherlands, in which Ypres, Bruges, and Ghent

had been her forerunners. For fifty years she was the Queen of the

North, and the centre of a vast ocean trade with England, France,

Spain, Portugal, and Italy, till the religious bigotry of Philip II of

Spain and the awful scenes of the Spanish Fury reduced her to

ruin. For two hundred years the Scheldt was blocked by Holland,

and the ocean trade of Antwerp obliterated. Her population disappeared,

her wharves rotted, and her canals were choked with mud. It is

hard to apportion the share of wickedness between a monarch

who destroys men and women to satisfy his own religious lust,

and a nation which drains the life-blood of another to satisfy its

lust for gold. One wonders in what category the instigator of the

present war should appear.

At the very beginning of last century Napoleon visited Antwerp, and

asserted that it was "little better than a heap of ruins." He recognized

its incomparable position as a port and as a fortress, and he

determined to raise it to its former prosperity, and to make it the

strongest fortress in Europe. He spent large sums of money upon it,

and his refusal to part with Antwerp is said to have broken off the

negotiations of Chatillon, and to have been the chief cause of his

exile to St. Helena. Alas his enemies did not profit by his genius. We

are the allies of his armies now, but we have lost Antwerp. Germany

will be utterly and completely crushed before she parts with that

incomparable prize. A mere glance at the map of Europe is sufficient

to convince anyone that in a war between England and Germany it is

a point of the first strategical importance. That our access to it should

be hampered by the control of Holland over the Scheldt is one of the

eccentricities of diplomacy which are unintelligible to the plain man.

The blame for its loss must rest equally between Britain and Belgium,

for Belgium, the richest country in Europe for her size, attempted to

defend her greatest stronghold with obsolete guns; whilst we, who

claim the mastery of the seas, sacrificed the greatest seaport in

Europe to the arrangements of an obsolete diplomacy. If we are to

retain our great position on the seas, Antwerp must be regained. She

is the European outpost of Britain, and, as has so often been pointed

out, the mouth of the Scheldt is opposite to the mouth of the Thames.

In Antwerp, as we saw her, it was almost impossible to realize the

vicissitudes through which she had passed, or to remember that her

present prosperity was of little more than fifty years' growth. On all

sides we were surrounded by wide boulevards, lined by magnificent

houses and public buildings. There are few streets in Europe to

eclipse the great Avenue des Arts, which, with its continuations,

extends the whole length of the city from north to south. The theatres,

the Central Station, the banks, would adorn any city, and the shops

everywhere spoke of a wealth not restricted to the few. The wide

streets, the trees, the roomy white houses, many of them great

palaces, made a deep impression upon us after the darkness and dirt

of London. Even in the poorer quarters there was plenty of light and

air, and on no occasion did we find the slums which surround the

wealthiest streets all over London. In the older parts of the city the

streets were, of course, narrower; but even here one had the

compensation of wonderful bits of architecture at unexpected corners,

splendid relics of an illustrious past. They are only remnants, but they

speak of a time when men worked for love rather than for wages, and

when an artisan took a pride in the labour of his hands. If it had not

been for the hand of the destroyer, what a marvellous city Antwerp

would have been! One likes to think that the great creations of the

past are not all lost, and that in the land to which the souls of the

Masters have passed we may find still living the mighty thoughts to

which their love gave birth. Are our cathedrals only stones and

mortar, and are our paintings only dust and oil?

The inhabitants of Antwerp were as delightful as their city. On all

sides we were welcomed with a kindness and a consideration not

always accorded to those who are so bold as to wish to help their

fellow-men. Everywhere we met with a courtesy and a generosity by

which, in the tragedy of their country, we were deeply touched. They

all seemed genuinely delighted to see us, from the Queen herself to

the children in the streets. Our medical confreres treated us royally,

and the mere thought of professional jealousy with such men is simply

ludicrous. They constantly visited our hospital, and they always

showed the keenest interest in our work and in any novelties in

treatment we were able to show them; and when we went to see

them, we were shown all the best that they had, and we brought away

many an ingenious idea which it was worth while going far to obtain.

Wherever we moved amongst the Belgians, we always found the

same simplicity of purpose, the same generosity of impulse.

Everywhere we met the same gratitude for what England was doing

for Belgium; no one ever referred to the sacrifices which Belgium has

made for England.

The one thing which so impressed us in the character of the Belgians

whom we met was its simplicity, and the men who had risen to high

rank did not seem to have lost it in their climb to fame. But it was just

this, the most delightful of their characteristics, which must have

made war for them supremely difficult. For strict discipline and

simplicity are almost incompatible. None of us tower so far above our

fellows that we can command instant obedience for our own sakes.

We have to cover ourselves with gold lace, to entrench ourselves in

rank, and to provide ourselves with all sorts of artificial aids before we

can rely on being obeyed. These things are foreign to the Belgian

mind, and as a result one noticed in their soldiers a certain lack of the

stern discipline which war demands. Individually they are brave men

and magnificent fighters. They only lacked the organization which has

made the little British Army the envy of the world. The fact is that they

are in no sense a warlike nation, in spite of their turbulent history of

the past, and, indeed, few things could be more incompatible than

turbulence and modern warfare. It demands on the part of the masses

of combatants an obedience and a disregard of life which are

repellent to human nature, and the Belgians are above all things

human. Germany is governed by soldiers, and France by officials.

Unlike the frogs in the fable, the Belgians are content to govern

themselves.

It was our great regret that we had so little time in which to see the

work of the Antwerp hospitals, but we made use of what opportunities

we had. There are many of them, and those we saw were magnificent

buildings, equipped in a way which filled us with envy. The great city

hospital, the Stuivenberg, was a model of what a modern hospital

ought to be. The wards were large and airy and spotlessly clean, and

the nurses seemed to be extremely competent. The kitchens were

equipped with all the latest appliances, steam boilers, and gas and

electric cookers. But the show part of the hospital was the suite of

operating theatres. I have always felt the pardonable pride of a son in

the theatres of the London Hospital, but they were certainly eclipsed

here. Each theatre was equipped with its own anaesthetizing room, its

own surgeon's room, and its own sterilizing rooms and stores, all

furnished with a lavishness beyond the financial capacity of any

hospital in London. Perhaps some of the equipment was unnecessary,

but it was abundantly evident that the State appreciated

the value of first-class surgery, and that it was prepared to pay for it.

I have never heard the same accusation levelled at Great Britain.

At St. Camille we had the good fortune to see M. Xambotte at work.

His reputation as a surgeon is worldwide, and it was pleasant to find

that his dexterity as an operator was equal to his reputation. It is not

always the case. He is an expert mechanic, and himself makes most

of the very ingenious instruments which he uses. He was fixing a

fractured femur with silver wires, and one could see the skilled

workman in all that he did. There is no training-ground for one's

hands like a carpenter's bench, and the embryo surgeon might do

much worse with his time than spend six months of it in a workshop.

When medical training emerges from its medieval traditions, manual

training will certainly form a part, and no one will be allowed to

attempt to mend a bone till he has shown his capacity to mend a

chair-leg. Here, again, the surgeon was surrounded by all the

appliances, and even the luxuries, that he could desire. The lot of the

great surgeon abroad is indeed a happy one.

But there is one thing in which we in England are far better off--in

our nursing staffs. In most of the hospitals we visited the nursing was

carried on by Sisterhoods, and though some of them were evidently

good nurses, most of them had no idea whatever of nursing as it is

practised in our country. Fresh air, for example, is to them full of

dangers. One would almost think that it savoured of the powers of

evil. We went into one huge hospital of the most modern type, and

equipped lavishly, and such wag the atmosphere that in ten minutes I

had to make a rush for the door. One large ward was full of wounded

soldiers, many of them with terrible wounds, gangrenous and horrible,

and every window was tightly shut. How they could live in such an

atmosphere is beyond my comprehension, but the Sisters did not

seem to notice it at all.

Some of the surgeons have their specially trained nurses, but nursing

as a profession for the classes who are alone competent to undertake

it is a conception which has yet to dawn upon the Continent, for only

a woman of education and refinement can really be a nurse.

The absence on the Continent of a nursing profession such as ours is

not without its influence on medicine and surgery abroad. The

individual patient meets with far less consideration than would be the

case in this country, and is apt to be regarded as so much raw

material. In Belgium this tendency is counteracted by the natural

kindliness of the Belgian, but in other countries patients are often

treated with a callousness which is amazing. There is in many of the

great clinics a disregard of the patient's feelings, of his sufferings,

and even of his life, which would be impossible in an English hospital.

The contact of a surgeon with his hospital patients as individuals is

largely through the nursing staff, and his point of view will be largely

influenced by them. There is no one in our profession, from the

youngest dresser to the oldest physician, who does not owe a great

part of his education to Sister.

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