FIRST MISSION TO CHINA. JAPAN.
EMBARK FOR JAPAN--COAST VIEWS--SIMODA--OFF YEDDO--YEDDO--CONFERENCES--A
COUNTRY RIDE--PEACE AND PLENTY--FEUDAL SYSTEM--A TEMPLE--A
JUGGLER--SIGNING THE TREATY--ITS TERMS--RETROSPECT.
[Sidenote: Embark for Japan.]
'On the last day of July, 1858,' writes Mr. Oliphant, we embarked on board
the "Furious," delighted, under any circumstances, to escape from the
summer heats of Shanghae, were it only for a few weeks; but our
gratification increased by the anticipation of visiting scenes which had
ever been veiled in the mystery of a jealous and rigid seclusion.'... There
was a charm also in the very indefiniteness and uncertainty of the objects
of the expedition. 'I do not exactly know,' wrote Lord Elgin, 'what I shall
do when I get to Nagasaki; but, at any rate, I shall ascertain what my
chances are of making a satisfactory treaty with Japan.'
The 'Furious' was accompanied by the 'Retribution' and by the 'Lee'
gunboat; and it was arranged that the Admiral should join them at Nagasaki.
_Nagasaki.--August 3rd._--We have had beautiful weather, and have
reached this point,--a quiet, small-looking town, fringing the bottom
of a bay, which is itself the close of a channel passing between
ranges of high volcanic hills, rugged and bold, but luxuriant with
vegetation and trees, and cultivated in terraces up to their summits.
I have seen nothing so beautiful in point of scenery for many a long
day. No sort of difficulty has been made to our progress up to the
town. The only symptom of objection I observed was an official in a
boat, who waved a fan, and when he saw we took no notice, sat down
again and went on with a book which he seemed to be reading. On both
sides of the channel, however, there is a very formidable display of
cannons and works of defence, which I apprehend would not be very
formidable in action. I have heard little in the way of news yet, but
I am disposed to believe that nothing can be accomplished here, and
that if anything is to be done we must go on to Yeddo. It is still
hot, but the air, which comes down from these lofty hills, is, I
think, fresher than that which passes over the boundless level in the
vicinity of Shanghae.
_August 4th_.--I have just had a visit from the Vice-Governor of
Nagasaki. One of his own suite did the interpretation. These are the
nicest people possible. None of the stiffness and bigotry of the
Chinese. I gave them luncheon, and it was wonderful how nicely they
managed with knives and forks and all other strange implements. The
Admiral arrived this forenoon. He now finds that his instructions
direct him to send the 'Emperor' yacht (which is to be a present) to
Yeddo. I shall take advantage of this and go to Yeddo myself at once.
I may do something, or find out what I can do.
_August 5th.--Four P.M._--The heat yesterday, and for the two nights
at Nagasaki, was very great. It must be a charming place when the
temperature is low enough to admit of walks into the country. As it is
we have just passed into the sea, through what Captain Osborn calls a
succession of Mount Edgecumbes. I went ashore yesterday and this
morning, chiefly to make purchases. Things here are really beautiful
and cheap. The town is wonderfully clean after China. Not a beggar to
be seen. The people clean too; for one of the commonest sights is to
see a lady in the front of her house, or in the front-room, wide open
to the street, sitting in a tub washing herself. I never saw a place
where the cleanliness of the fair sex was established on such
unimpeachable ocular evidence.
[Sidenote: Gales.]
_August 6th.--Four P.M._--At anchor off the southernmost point of
Japan. It has been blowing hard all day, and our captain proposed,
that instead of rounding this point and facing the sea and wind,
against which we should not be able to make any way, we should creep
in under it and anchor. We intend to remain till the gale abates.
Nothing can be finer than the coast. We have passed to-day some very
high hills, one especially on an island to the right, and a conical-
shaped one on the left, on the Japan mainland. I see little sign of
population on this coast off which we are anchored: only one little
fishing village. There were a good many junks yesterday. It is very
hot though, and I find it difficult to sit at my table and write.
_August 7th.--Three P.M._--Still at anchor in the same spot. The storm
has not abated, and the wind is dead against us. My time is so short
that I cannot well afford to lose any.
_August 10th.--Ten A.M._--I wonder if I shall be able to write a few
lines legibly. There is still a good deal of motion, but a cool
breeze, which is such a relief after the sweltering six weeks we have
spent. Ahead of us is a great conical-shaped mountain, the sacred
mountain of Fusiama (etymologically 'the matchless mountain'), and
somewhere nearer on the long range of bold coast which we are
approaching, we expect to find Simoda. But I must tell you of our two
past days--days of suffering. At about twelve during the night of the
7th, the wind shifted and began to blow into our anchorage, so as to
make it unsafe to stay there, and to promise us a fair wind if we
proceeded on our way; so off we started. We have had our fair wind,
but a great deal of it; and as the 'Furious' is both a bad sailer and
a good roller, we have passed a very wretched time,--every hole
through which air could come closed. However, we have made good
progress and burnt little coal, which is good for the public interest.
We see now in the distance two sails, which we suppose may be our
consorts, the 'Emperor' and 'Retribution.' We have travelled some 1000
miles since we left Shanghae, besides spending two days at Nagasaki.
[Sidenote: Coast view.]
_Same day.--Noon_.--It is a magnificent prospect which we have from
the paddle-box. Immediately before us a bold junk, its single large
sail set, and scudding before the breeze. Beyond, a white cloud,
slight at the base, and swelling into the shape of a balloon as it
rises. We have discovered that it rests on a mountain dimly visible in
the distance, and which we recognise as the volcanic island of Oosima.
Towards the right the wide sea dotted with two or three rocky islets.
On the left of the volcano island a point of land rising into a bold
and rocky coast, along which the eye is carried till it encounters a
mighty bank of white clouds piled up one upon another, out of which
rises clear and blue, with a white streak upon the side which seems to
tell of perpetual snow, the cone-shaped top of Fusiama. Passing on the
eye from this magnificent object to the left still farther, the rocky
coast is followed till it loses itself in the distance. What is almost
more charming than the scene is the fresh breeze which is carrying off
the accumulated fever of weeks.
[Sidenote: Simoda.]
_August 12th._--At sea again. (Grouse day. I am following different
game.) We dropped anchor in the harbour of Simoda on the 10th at about
3 P.M. I went off immediately to see the American Consul-General, Mr.
Harris, the only foreigner resident at Simoda. I found him living in
what had been a temple, but what in point of fact makes a very nice
cottage, overlooking the bay. As soon as we anchored we began to feel
the heat, though not so great as at Shanghae. I found that the Consul
had contrived to make a pretty good treaty with Japan, evidently under
the influence of the _contrecoup_ of our proceedings in China. He had
had an interview with the Emperor, but it transpired that he had a
letter of credence, which I have not, and that Putiatine, not having
one, is not permitted to go to Yeddo. I also learnt that there is no
way of communicating with the Japanese officials except through the
Dutch language. Being without a Dutch interpreter, and without letters
of credence, my case looked bad enough. However, I made great friends
with the American, and the result is that he has lent me his own
interpreter, who is now beside me translating into Dutch a letter from
me to the Foreign Minister of the Japanese Emperor. You see how I was
situated. The problem I had to solve was:--How to make a treaty
without _time_ (for I cannot stay here above a few days),
_interpreter_, or _credentials_ !! When I say credentials, I do not
mean _full powers_. _These_ I have, but prestige is everything in the
East, and I should not like to be prevented from seeing the Emperor,
now that the American has been received. We shall see how we can get
out of all this.
The lack of credentials was practically supplied by the steam-yacht
'Emperor,' which he had to present to the Tycoon as a gift from her
Majesty; and the duties of interpreter were discharged for him throughout
in the most efficient manner by the gentleman above referred to, Mr.
Heusken, the American Secretary, whom he found 'not only competent for his
special work, but also in the highest degree intelligent and obliging.'
[Sidenote: Amiability.]
[Sidenote: Cleanliness.]
[Sidenote: Temples.]
_Same date._--Simoda is a pretty place, lying on flat ground at the
head of a short bay, with rocky volcanic-looking hills, covered with
fine trees and intersected by valleys all around. The people seem the
most amiable on earth. Crime and pauperism seem little known. All
anxious to do kindnesses to strangers, and steadily refusing pay.
There are innumerable officials with their double-swords, but they
appear to be on the most easy terms with the people. To judge from the
amount of clothing worn by both sexes, it does not seem likely that
there will be any great demand for Manchester cotton goods. I cannot
say what it may be in winter, but in summer they seem to place a very
filial reliance on nature. They are the cleanest people too. The
floors of their houses are covered with mats which are stuffed
beneath, and which serve for beds, floors, tables, &c. It is proper to
take off the shoes or sandals on entering the houses or temples. I
looked into one or two bathing-houses, which are most unlike those I
saw at Shanghae;--an inner room which is a kind of steam-bath, and an
outer room where the process of drying goes on. The difference in
China is, that it is only the men that clean themselves there, whereas
the rights of the fair sex on this point are fully recognised in
Japan, and in order that there may be no inequality in the way they
are exercised, all bathe together. I visited some temples. Though
Buddhistic, they had not the hideous figures which are seen in the
Chinese temples. They were generally prettily situated near the foot
of the rocky and wood-covered cliffs, with flights of steps running up
to shrines among the rocks. They were surrounded by numerous monuments
to the departed, consisting generally of little pilasters, squared on
the sides, and bearing inscriptions, surrounded by a coping or ball.
On the pedestal, &c., in front of the pilaster, generally, were one or
two branches of what looked like myrtle stuck into pieces of bamboo
which serve for flower-pots. These monuments, crowded together around
the temples and overshadowed by the lofty trees, had a very graceful
effect.
We have just committed an act of vigour. In place of going into the
harbour of Kanagawa where Count Putiatine is at anchor, I have
determined to proceed to a point several miles higher up nearer to
Yeddo. We completely foil by our audacity all the poor Japanese
officials. I have said nothing of the bazaar of Simoda, where there
were a great many pretty things, of which I bought some, nor of a
visit which the Governor paid to me. He was a very jolly fellow, liked
his luncheon and a joke. He made the conventional protests against my
going on, &c., but when he saw it was of no use, he dropped the
subject. The Japanese are a most curious contrast to the Chinese, so
anxious to learn, and so _prévenants_. God grant that in opening their
country to the West, we may not be bringing upon them misery and ruin.
[Sidenote: Off Yeddo.]
[Sidenote: Sanctity of custom.]
_Off Yeddo.--August 14th._--We moved yesterday to within about one
mile of the shore off the suburb of Yeddo. The shore is flat, and the
buildings of the town, interspersed with trees and enclosures, seem to
stretch to a great distance along the crescent-shaped bay. Immediately
in front of the town and opposite to us are five large batteries. Four
Japanese men-of-war built on European models are anchored beside us.
Three princes came off to see me yesterday. They were exceedingly
civil, but very anxious to get me to go back to Kanagawa, a port about
ten miles down the bay, from which they said they would convey me by
land to Yeddo. Of course I would not agree to this. They were very
much puzzled (and no wonder) by my two names. I complimented the
prince on the beautiful Fusiama, calling it a high mountain. 'Oh!' he
said at once, 'I have seen a scale of mountains, and I know that there
are many much higher than Fusiama.' There were persons in the suite
taking down in shorthand every word that passed in conversation, and I
thought I saw in one of their note-books a sketch of my face. No doubt
these were spies also, to watch and report on the proceedings of the
officials, for that seems to be the great means of government in
Japan. Still there is no appearance of oppression or fear anywhere. It
seems to be a matter of course that every man should fill the place
and perform the function which custom and law prescribe, and that he
should be denounced if he fail to do so. The Emperor is never allowed
to leave the precincts of his palace, and everybody, high and low, is
under a rigid rule of _convenances_, which does not seem to be felt to
be burdensome. I am afraid they are not much disposed to do things in
a hurry, and that I must discover some means of hastening them, if I
am to get my treaty before returning to Shanghae.
[Sidenote: Hereditary princes.]
_August 16th._--Princes, five in number, arrived on board yesterday at
about 3 P.M. Among them was the Lord High Admiral, a very intelligent
well-bred man. It was agreed that I was to land to-day, and some
discussion took place as to the house I was to inhabit. They said that
they could give me the choice of two, but that they recommended the
one farthest from the palace as being in best repair. I chose the one
nearest the palace, because one is always obliged to be on one's guard
against slights, but it has ruined so much to-day that I have sent to
say that I will not land till to-morrow, and to inquire where I can
really be best lodged. I have handed to the authorities a draft of my
treaty. The chief interpreter, by name Moriama (the 'wooded
mountain'), a very acute and smooth-spoken gentleman, who told one of
my party yesterday that the princes who have come off to me are Free
Traders, and that this is the spirit of the Government, but that some
of the hereditary princes are very much opposed to intercourse with
foreigners, and that some little time ago it was apprehended that they
would raise a rebellion against the Government, in consequence of the
concessions it is making. The official princes are named by the
Emperor for life, but the hereditary ones are great feudal chiefs
owing rather a qualified allegiance to the Emperor. Moriama pretended
that he and his friends had seen the arrival of our ship with
pleasure, but of course one never knows whether to believe a word they
say.
[Sidenote: Yeddo.]
[Sidenote: The 'Castle.']
_Yeddo.--August 18th, Seven A.M._--Here I am installed in a building
which forms the dependence of a temple. It consists of some small
rooms forming two sides of a square, with a verandah running in front
of them. From the verandah you step into a garden not very well kept,
with a pond and trees, and some appearance of care in laying it out.
In the centre is the temple, with a back-door opening into the garden.
I entered it yesterday, and found a 'buddha' coming out of the lotus,
looking very freshly gilt and well cared for. There were in the temple
two or three priests, who seem to live there; at any rate, one was
asleep on the matting, which, as I told you, is in Japanese houses
laid on the top of a bed of straw. They are charmingly soft and clean,
as all shoes are put off on entering. The natives use neither tables,
chairs, nor beds. They lie, sit, and feed on this matting. They have
made considerable exertions, however, to fit up our houses on European
principles. We landed yesterday at noon. The day was fine, and the
procession of boats imposing. An immense crowd of good-natured,
curious people lined both sides of the streets along which we passed.
The streets are wide and handsome. We were preceded and accompanied by
officers to keep off the crowd, but a blow with a fan was the heaviest
penalty that I saw inflicted on anyone breaking the line. At every
fifty yards, or so, the street was crossed by large gates, which were
closed as soon as our procession passed through, which prevented a
rush after us. On arriving, as I had nothing else to do, I proposed a
ride through the town, to the considerable consternation of our
attendants. We set off on saddles made of hard and rather sharp bits
of wood, stirrups which I can't undertake to describe, and our knees
in our mouths. However, we made our way to the quarter of the Palace
or Castle. As we approached it, we passed through streets inhabited by
princes. I did not enter any of their houses, but they seem to be
constructed somewhat on the principle of the _entre cour et jardin_
houses in parts of Paris. On the street front the offices,
substantially built, and often with very handsome gateways. The
'Castle' is surrounded by three concentric enclosures, consisting of
walls and moats. They are at a considerable distance from each other,
and the Emperor resides in the innermost enclosure, from which he
never goes out. The intervals between the enclosures are filled up
with handsome houses, &c. We passed over the first moat, and rode up
to the second. When we came up to the second we discovered a spectacle
which was really very grand. The moat was some forty or fifty yards
wide; beyond it a high bank of grass nicely kept, with trees rather
like yews every here and there dropped upon it. The crest of the bank
seemed to be crowned by a temple, surrounded by trees. The stone wall
was on a grand scale, and well finished. In short, the whole thing
would have been considered magnificent anywhere. After China, where
everything is _mesquin_, and apparently _en decadence_, it produces a
great effect. I did not see a single beggar in the streets; and as in
this ride of yesterday we took our own way, without giving any notice,
we must have seen the streets in their usual guise.
My poor, dear friends, the Japanese, object to everything and always
give way.[1] It is a bad plan, because it forces one to be very
peremptory and overbearing. Nothing can be milder than their
objections, but they lose time. I have told them that I must see the
Foreign Minister to-day, and that I must have another house, as the
situation of this one is not sufficiently aristocratic. I do not know,
however, whether I shall press the latter point, as it will put myself
to much inconvenience.
_August 19th._--In the evening, I visited the Foreign Minister, or
rather, the two Foreign Ministers (I believe there are three, but one
is unwell). I took my whole staff, but only my secretary and
interpreter remained in the room when we came to talk of business.
There has been a change of Government, and the present Foreign
Secretaries seem stupid enough. The Government seems to be a sort of
oligarchy in the hands of the hereditary princes. Count Putiatine, who
has just been with me, tells me that he does not consider the
officers, with whom we are negotiating, princes at all. They have the
title of _Kami_, but it is not hereditary, and they are altogether
inferior to the others. Both have the title of _Kami_, but the
hereditary princes are also called _Daimios_.
[Sidenote: Conference.]
[Sidenote: A country ride.]
_August 21st._--On the 19th, the Plenipotentiaries appointed to treat
with me came. They are six in number. We exchanged our full powers,
and I made some difficulty about theirs, but was satisfied by their
explanations. After the _séance_, I went out riding through the
streets. I had not given notice, and we went through a densely peopled
quarter, which gave me an opportunity of seeing something of the
popular feeling. We were followed by immense crowds, among whom some
boys took to hooting, and by degrees to throwing stones. This got
rather disagreeable, so at length we took to stopping at the gates,
turning right about, and facing the mob with our horses, until the
gates were shut. It proves to me, however, that it is not prudent to
go about without a good Japanese escort. Yesterday we had a most
charming expedition into the country. We started at about 11 A.M.,
rode first to the road I have already described, and which runs along
the moat of the second enclosure of the Emperor's domain. We passed
alongside of this enclosure. The effect of the domain within, with its
dropping trees (not yews, I see, but pines of some sort, many of them
with spreading branches like cedars), being somewhat that of a
magnificent English park. This, mind you, in the centre of a city of
two or three millions of inhabitants.
_Sunday, August 22nd._--We then passed through the gate of the
outermost enclosure on the opposite side, and entered some crowded
streets beyond, through which we made our way, passing on our right
the palace of the greatest of the hereditary princes, really an
imposing mass of building. Beyond, we got into the country, consisting
at first of a sort of long street of quaint cottages with thatched or
tiled roofs, embosomed in gardens, and interspersed with avenues
conducting to temples. Further on were cultivated fields, with
luxuriant crops of great variety: rice, sweet potato, egg-plant, peas,
millet, yams, taro, melons, &c. &c. At last, we reached a place of
refreshment, consisting of a number of kiosques, on the bank of a
stream, with a waterfall hard by, and gardens with rock-work (not
_mesquin,_ as in China, but really pretty and in good taste) opposite.
Here we had luncheon. Fruits, and a kind of Julienne soup; not bad,
but rather _maigre,_ served to us by charming young ladies, who
presented on their knees the trays with the little dishes upon them.
The repast finished, we set out on our return (for we had overshot our
mark), and visited the gardens, which were the object of our
expedition. They had the appearance of nursery gardens, with rows of
pots containing dwarf-trees and all manner of quaint products; all
this, moreover, in a prettily _accidenté_ country, abounding in forest
trees and luxuriant undergrowth. We got back at about 7 P.M., having
met with no mishap.
[Sidenote: Peace and plenty.]
[Sidenote: Good temper.]
On the whole, I consider it the most interesting expedition I ever
made. The total absence of anything like want among the people; their
joyous, though polite and respectful demeanour; the combination of
that sort of neatness and finish which we attain in England By the
expenditure of great wealth, with tropical luxuriance, made me feel
that at last I had found something which entirely surpassed all the
expectations I had formed. And I am bound to say, that the social and
moral condition of Japan has astonished me quite as much as its
material beauty. Every man, from the Emperor (who never leaves his
palace) to the humblest labourer, lives under a rigid rule, prescribed
by law and custom combined; and the Government, through its numerous
agents, among whom are hosts of spies, or more properly inspectors
(for there is no secresy or concealment about this proceeding),
exercises a close surveillance over the acts of each individual; but,
in so far as one can judge, this system is not felt to be burdensome
by any. All seem to think it the most natural thing in the world that
they should move in the orbit in which they are placed. The agents of
authority wear their two swords; but, as they never use them except
for the purpose of ripping themselves up, the privilege does not seem
to be felt to be invidious. My interpreter, a Dutchman, lent to me by
the United States Consul-General, has been two years in the country,
and he assures me that he never saw a Japanese in a passion, and never
saw a parent beat a child. An inexhaustible fund of good temper seems
to prevail in the community. Whenever in our discussions on business
we get on rough ground, I always find that a joke brings us at once
upon the level again. Yesterday, at a formal audience with the Foreign
Ministers (to settle about the handing over of the yacht), they began
to propose that, in addition to the Commissioners, I should allow some
other officers (probably spies or inspectors) to be present at our
discussions on the clauses of the Treaty. After treating this
seriously for some moments, without settling it to their satisfaction,
I at once carried the day, by saying laughingly, that as they were six
to one already, they ought not to desire to have more chances in their
favour. This provoked a counterlaugh and a compliment, and no more was
said about the spies. When the Commissioners came yesterday afternoon
to go through the clauses of the Treaty with me, I was much pleased
with the manner in which they took to their work, raising questions
and objections in a most business-like manner, but without the
slightest appearance of captiousness or a desire to make difficulties.
Their interpreter, Moriama, is a very good Dutch scholar, and, of
course, being a remarkably shrewd gentleman withal, has a leading part
in the proceedings; but all seem to take an intelligent share.
[Sidenote: Temples.]
I went into the temple of which this building forms a part, this
morning. Two priests came up to me, knelt down, and laid before me two
pages of paper, holding out to me at the some time the painting-brush
and Indian inkstand, which is the inseparable companion of every
Japanese, and making signs which I interpreted into a request that I
would write down my name. I sat down on the floor, and complied with
their request, which seemed to please them. The priests appear by no
means so wretched here as in China, and the temples are in much better
case. I have not, however, seen many of them.
[Sidenote: Political condition.]
It is difficult, of course, to speak positively of the political
condition of a country of which one knows so little; but there seems
to be a kind of feudal system in vigour here. The hereditary princes
(Daimios), some 360 in number (I doubt much their being all equally
powerful), exercise extensive jurisdiction in their respective
domains. A Dutch officer, who visited one of these domains in a
Japanese man-of-war, found that the chieftain would not allow even the
officers of the Japanese Emperor to land on his territory. The only
control which the Emperor exerts over them is derived from his
requiring all their wives and families to live at Yeddo permanently.
The Daimios themselves spend half the year in Yeddo, and the other
half at their country places. The Supreme Council of State appears to
be in a great measure named by the Daimios, and the recent change of
Government is supposed to have been a triumph of the protectionist or
anti-foreign party. There is no luxury or extravagance in any class.
No jewels or gold ornaments even at Court; but the nobles have
handsome palaces, and large bodies of retainers. A perfectly paternal
government; a perfectly filial people; a community entirely self-
supporting; peace within and without; no want; no ill-will between
classes. This is what I find in Japan in the year 1858, after one
hundred years' exclusion of foreign trade and foreigners. Twenty years
hence, what will be the contrast?
_August 27th._--Here I am at sea again. It is 9 P.M. I have just been
on deck. A lovely moon, nearly full, gliding through cloudless blue,
spangled here and there with bright twinkling stars. I begin to feel
as if at last I was really on my way home. Both my treaties are made,
and I am steering westwards! Is it so or am I to meet some great
disappointment when I reach China? I feel a sort of terror when I
contemplate my return to that place. My trip to Japan has been a green
spot in the desert of my mission to the East.
[Sidenote: A temple.]
[Sidenote: A juggler.]
But I must tell you how I have been spending my days since the 22nd,
when I last added a word to this letter. On the afternoon of that day,
I had a long sitting with the Japanese Plenipotentiaries, and we went
over the clauses of the Treaty which we had not reached on the
previous day. On the 23rd they returned, and we agreed finally on all
the articles. It was also settled that the signature should take place
on the 26th (the very day two months after the signature of the Treaty
of Tientsin), and that the delivery of the yacht should take place on
the same day; the Japanese agreeing to salute the British flag with
twenty-one guns from their batteries--a proceeding unheard of in
Japan. On the 24th, we took a ride into the country, in the opposite
direction to our former ride. We passed through a long suburb on the
shore of the sea, and eventually emerged into a rural district, rich
and neat as that we had formerly visited; but as the country was flat,
it was hardly so interesting. The object of our visit was a temple,
far the finest I have seen either in China or Japan. We had some
luncheon in a tea-house, and got back at about 7 P.M. On the 25th, we
went to another temple, through the most crowded part of the city
(where we were stoned before). We were followed by large multitudes,
but nothing disagreeable took place. At the temple we found a scene
somewhat resembling Greenwich Fair. Immense numbers of people amusing
themselves in all sorts of ways. Stalls covered with toys and other
wares; kiosques for tea; show places, &c. &c. Life seems an affair of
enjoyment in Japan. We made some purchases, and got home by about 5
P.M., in order to receive a party. I had invited the Imperial
Commissioners to dine with me, and requested that they would send a
juggler to perform before dinner. They tried to fight shy after having
accepted, I suppose because they considered it _infra dig._ to attend
at the performance of the juggler; but they came at last, and enjoyed
the dinner part of the affair thoroughly. The juggler was good, but
one particular feat was beyond praise. He twisted a bit of paper into
the shape of a butterfly, and kept it hovering and fluttering,
lighting here or there, on a fan which he held in his other hand, on a
bunch of flowers, &c.,--all by the action on the air, produced by a
fan which he held in the right hand. At one time he started two
butterflies, and kept them both on the wing. It was the most graceful
trick I ever saw, and entirely an affair of skill, not trick. The
juggler was succeeded by the dinner, which I wound up by giving sundry
toasts, with all the honours, to the great amusement of my
Commissioners. Thursday morning was occupied in paying bills, which
was a most difficult matter, as the Government will not allow the
people to take money in the shops, and the complication of accounts
was very great. The accuracy of the Japanese in these matters is,
however, very great.
[Sidenote: Signing the Treaty]
At 1 P.M. the Commissioners came to sign the Treaty. We have agreed to
make the Dutch copy the _original,_ as it is the language both parties
understand. The Dutch copy, written by their man Moriama, was so
beautifully written, that I have kept it to send to England. After the
signature, I lunched on a dinner sent me by the Emperor; not so bad,
after all. About 3 P.M. I set off to go on board the 'Emperor' yacht,
which I reached at about 5; immediately after which the Japanese fort
saluted the British flag with twenty-one guns (ten-inch guns); as good
a salute as I ever heard, an exact interval of ten seconds between
each gun. The Japanese flag was then hoisted on the 'Emperor,' and
saluted by the 'Retribution' and 'Furious' with twenty-one guns each.
We ended the day with a collation on board the 'Retribution,' and trip
in the 'Emperor;' and as I was pacing the deck of the 'Furious,'
before retiring to rest, after my labours were over, to my great
surprise I observed that the forts were illuminated! Imagine our
daring exploit of breaking through every _consigne,_ and coming up to
Yeddo, having ended in an illumination of the forts in our honour! At
4 A.M. this morning we weighed anchor, and are now some 140 miles on
our way to Shanghae.
[Sidenote: Articles of the Treaty.]
The principal advantages secured to England by this Treaty, so amicably and
rapidly settled, were the following:--
Power to appoint a Diplomatic Agent to reside at Yeddo, and Consuls at the
open ports;
Ample recognition of Consular jurisdiction and of the immunities of
exterritoriality;
The opening to British subjects, at specified periods, of several of the
most important ports and cities of Japan;
Power to land and store supplies for the use of the British navy at
Kanagawa, Hakodadi, and Nagasaki, without payment of duty;
Power to British subjects to buy from and sell to Japanese subjects
directly, without the intervention of the Japanese authorities;
Foreign coin to pass for corresponding weights of Japanese coin of the same
description;
Abolition of tonnage and transit dues;
Reduction of duties on exports from 35 per cent. to a general rate of 5 per
cent. _ad valorem_.
The concessions obtained from the Japanese by the Treaty of Yeddo were not,
in some important particulars, so considerable as those which had been made
by China in the Treaty of Tientsin. It was, however, a material advance on
all previous treaties with Japan, and it opened the door to the gradual
establishment of relations of commerce and amity between the people of the
West and that of Japan, which might become, as Lord Elgin hoped and
believed, of the most cordial and intimate character, 'if the former did
not, by injudicious and aggressive acts, rouse against themselves the fears
and hostility of the natives.'
[Sidenote: Retrospect.]
_August 30th.--Eleven A.M._--We are again plunging into the China Sea,
and quitting the only place which I have left with any feeling of
regret since I reached this abominable East,--abominable, not so much
in itself, as because it is strewed all over with the records of our
violence and fraud, and disregard of right. The exceeding beauty
external of Japan, and its singular moral and social picturesqueness,
cannot but leave a pleasing impression on the mind. One feels as if
the position of a Daimio in Japan might not be a bad one, with two or
three millions of vassals; submissive, but not servile, because there
is no contradiction between their sense of fitness and their position.
[1] Not so, however, in the actual work of negotiating. In a despatch of
later date he writes: 'I was much struck by the business-like manner
in which they did their work; making very shrewd observations, and
putting very pertinent questions, but by no means in a captious or
cavilling spirit. Of course their criticisms were sometimes the result
of imperfect acquaintance with foreign affairs, and it was
occasionally necessary to remove their scruples by alterations in the
text which were not improvements; but on the whole, I am bound to say
that I never treated with persons who seemed to me, within the limits
of their knowledge, to be more reasonable.'--See also _infra_, p. 270.