CHAPTER XI.

THE SPY SYSTEM--THE BATH-HOUSE.

There are two Japanese customs so diametrically opposed to English

ideas, and so materially affecting the national character, that it is

necessary to call special attention to them.

The espionage system is perhaps the strangest, as every one in the

country is subjected to it, from the Mikado and Tycoon, or spiritual

and temporal emperors, to the humblest of the people.

All offices of importance are double; that is to say, every governor

of a town or district is associated with a vice-governor, who is an

'ometsky,' or 'spy,' upon him, and is in turn spied upon by others. In

this way a constant check is kept upon the executive of the empire.

In addition to this acknowledged system, government officials are

frequently watched by secret spies, who, for aught they know, may be

some apparently trusty friend: so that, even in the absence of their

double, they can never be certain that they are free from supervision.

In private life families spy on each other, for which purpose they are

divided into coteries of five households, the heads of which are not

only responsible for themselves, their families and servants, but also

for the other members of the coterie; and any wrong-doing in one

household must be immediately reported to the proper authorities, to

secure the rest from sharing in the punishment of the offence.

To such an extent is this system of responsibility carried, that a

whole district sometimes suffers for the offence of one of its

residents. In the towns where the streets are intersected with

barriers a few hundred yards apart, which are always closed at night,

the people living within these enclosures are often under the ban of

the officials for some irregularity which has occurred within the

limits. This constant espionage has, of course a very pernicious

effect upon the character of the people, as it necessarily instils

feelings of distrust and suspicion among near neighbours. Yet it is

marvellous how well their social system works, and still more

marvellous that the officials, who in public life practise every kind

of deception and artifice, should be, and from all accounts deservedly

so, distinguished in private life for their truthfulness, candour, and

hospitality.

The other notable peculiarity is the indiscriminate manner in which

the sexes mingle in the public bath-houses. All Japanese perform their

ablutions once or twice a-day; for which purpose the poorer classes

resort to the bath-houses, which are generally open to the road or

street.

[Illustration: UYA, OR BATH-HOUSE.]

Some bath-houses have the women's lavatory separate; and one of these

is the subject of the illustration. This arrangement, however, is more

for convenience than in compliance with the demands of modesty as is

evidenced by the fact that a male attendant is supplying water; and

that his presence is plainly a matter of perfect indifference to the

women bathing, with their children, in his immediate vicinity.

But it is in the common bath-room where this extraordinary feature of

Japanese life unmistakeably presents itself. There men, women and

children, perform their ablutions together, with all the apparent

innocency of our first parents. The proceedings are conducted with

perfect order and good-nature. The steaming occupants make way for one

another with ball-room politeness; they laugh and chat over their

tubs, discuss the public notices on the walls, or, maybe, saunter

occasionally to the open door or window, to look at something which

has attracted their attention, or to exchange greetings with a passing

friend. All this is done with a freedom that speaks for itself of

their utter unconsciousness of any impropriety in their conduct.

Frequently a lady is assisted by her husband in the cleansing

process; and this is not necessarily a matrimonial compliment, as

regular bathing-men are employed for the convenience of those who

require such attention.

The favourite times for bathing are the middle of the day and the

evening; but in the summer the bath-houses are always full.

[Illustration: Going home from the Bath-house. (Native drawing.)]

The _modus operandi_ is very simple. The bather, after duly depositing

his straw shoes at the door and paying a few cash for admittance, at

once proceeds to disrobe himself, placing his garments in an allotted

compartment. He then secures a tub, which is filled with lukewarm

water, and, squatting down before it, lathers himself with a

vegetable, soapy material, which is sewn up in a small bag. At this

stage of the proceeding he will probably enter into conversation with

his neighbours, complacently rejoicing in his soapiness until the

remonstrances of the bathing-house man, or of some would-be possessor

of his tub, compel him to finish his ablutions.

It would seem natural to conclude that such a system must have immoral

effects, but the Japanese attribute no evil consequences to it. They

say that, being accustomed to it from childhood, it only enables them

to carry out those habits of cleanliness which distinguish alike their

persons and their homes.

It is amusing to notice the care taken by the Japanese to protect

themselves from a second bath on returning from the bath-houses to

their homes in rainy weather. The artisan with the umbrella (which

bears his name and direction, by the way) is an instance of this.

Sketches of Japanese Manners and Customs · 第 11 / 12 章