ON THE TOKAIDO AND IN THE TEA-HOUSES.
Extending over the whole empire of Japan, regular ferries connecting
it with the different islands, is the 'Tokaido,' or 'Imperial High
Road,' to which occasional reference has been made.
Originally constructed at the instigation of a Tycoon of more than
ordinary abilities, it has, from the constant care bestowed upon it
for centuries (each Daimio being compelled to keep that portion of it
which passes through his dominions in repair), become a broad and
well-graduated highway.
It is frequently sheltered by avenues of colossal pines, cryptomerias,
and other lofty trees; and small plantations of the graceful bamboo
are generally to be seen in the neighbourhood of the roadside houses.
The scenery is sometimes very lovely: mountain-ranges are to be
observed rising one above another, in that wild conglomeration
peculiar to volcanic countries; and in the Island of Nipon the snowy
cone of Fusiyama is almost always visible from the higher ground.
The hilly country is thickly wooded; but terraces of fields are
sometimes cut in the sides, where the formation of the ground permits.
The lowlands and valleys are mostly covered with rich crops of
cereals, which are watered by natural or artificial streams.
As the Tokaido winds along the hill-tops, occasional glimpses of the
sea meet the eye, often with a series of headlands jutting one beyond
another into it, and distant islands dotting the horizon.
By the wayside many rare and beautiful ferns are to be seen; and in
their seasons, the large white lilies of the country, hydrangeas,
violets, orchids, and an endless variety of wild flowers.
[Illustration: Carpenters at work. (Native drawing.)]
Along this beautiful road are constantly passing Daimios and their
hosts of retainers, trains of travellers and pilgrims, and a large
portion of the island traffic of the empire. As the Tokaido passes
through most of the principal towns, the traveller has frequent
opportunities of observing the various avocations of the people; for
mechanics commonly work in front of their doors, as shown in the
woodcut; and in fine weather, the sliding windows through which the
Japanese enter their houses are always drawn back, leaving the
interior and its occupants open to the road.
The baker's shop opposite affords a good specimen of the wayside
scenes, and conveys a fair idea of an ordinary Japanese house. It will
be noticed that the puppies in the foreground, as well as the cat in
the girl's arms, are very differently delineated; but such animals are
the especial stumbling-blocks of the native artists, although they
faithfully represent birds, fishes, and reptiles.
With the exception of the Daimios on their state journeys (who, by the
way, have regular halting-places at tea-houses officially set apart
for their use), for the mass of the people to be seen on the Tokaido
belong to the lower classes--the aristocracy considering it beneath
their dignity to travel for pleasure, or to make pilgrimages.
[Illustration: A BAKER'S SHOP.]
[Illustration: A TEA-HOUSE MERRY-MAKING.]
Naturally hardy and energetic, the Japanese seem thoroughly to enjoy
travelling, which in fine weather has few drawbacks. It is true that
the peremptory order, 'Chetanerio,' or 'Down upon your knees,' at the
approach of one of their oligarchical rulers, would be objectionable
to Europeans; but the Japanese are accustomed to this, and proceed
with their journey after half-an-hour's detention without being in any
way put out by it.
[Illustration: Tea-house Girl waiting. (Native drawing.)]
The numerous and pleasant tea-houses that skirt the Tokaido have a
great deal to do with rendering travelling popular, A smiling welcome
from the pretty waitresses employed at these places may always be
anticipated by the weary wayfarers; and, however slight their
requirements may be, they are certain to be promptly and courteously
attended to.
If the means of travellers do not permit them to resort to the
tea-houses, there are sheds and stalls at intervals along the road,
where they can obtain fruit or refreshments at a trifling cost.
Some of the tea-houses in the vicinity of large towns are much
frequented in the spring-time by pleasure-parties, on account of the
beauty of their gardens. The chromo-lithograph opposite represents one
of these parties, some of whom appear to have been indulging too
freely in saki. The fellow dancing and waving the fan about is
apparently addressing a love-song to the lady opposite, whose husband
is evidently desirous of putting a stop to the flirtation.