The following singular order, as to dress and the excess thereof, was
issued by the great statesman, Cecil, Lord Burleigh, as chancellor of
the University of Cambridge, in the days of Elizabeth, which is
preserved in the _Liber Niger_, or Black-book, extant in the Cambridge
University Library. The paper is dated "from my house in Strand, this
seventhe of May, 1588," and runs thus:--1. "That no hat be worne of
anie graduate or scholler within the said universitie (except it shall
be when he shall journey owte of the towne, or excepte in the time of
his sickness.) All graduates were to weare square caps of clothe; and
schollers, not graduates, round cloth caps, saving that it may be
lawful for the sonnes of noblemen, or the sonnes and heirs of knights,
to weare round caps of velvet, but no hats."
2. "All graduates shall weare abroade in the universitie going owte of
his colledg, a gowne and a hoode of cloth, according to the order of
his degree. Provided that it shall be lawful for everie D.D., and for
the Mr. of anie coll. to weare a sarcenet tippet of velvet, according
to the anciente customes of this realme, and of the saide universitie.
The whiche gowne, tippet, and square caps, the saide Drs. and heads
shall be likewise bound to weare, when they shall resorte eyther to
the courte, or to the citie of London."
3. "And that the excesse of shirt bands and ruffles, exceeding an
ynche and halfe (saving the sonnes of noblemen,) the fashion and
colour other than white, be avoided presentlie; and no scholler, or
fellowe of the foundation of anie house of learninge, do weare eyther
in the universitie or without, &c., anie hose, stockings, dublets,
jackets, crates, or jerknees, or anie other kynde of garment, of
velvet, satin, or silk, or in the facing of the same shall have above
a 1/4 of a yard of silke, or shall use anie other light kynde of
colour, or cuts, or gards, of fashion, the which shall be forbidden by
the Chancellor," &c.
4th. "And that no scholler doe weare anie long lockes of hair vppon
his head, but that he be notted, pouled, or rounded, after the
accustomed manner of the gravest schollers of the saide universitie."
The penalty for every offence against these several orders being six
shillings and eightpence: the sum in which offenders are mulcted in
the present day.