By “self measurements” no one means, literally, that a man can, unaided,
take his own measurements for any sort of garment satisfactorily. It is
better with help—any help. So all tailors, clothiers and outfitters use
the term in the sense of “assisted” home measurements—which, if the
instructions in the measurement charts usually supplied by the dealers
are followed, will do nearly as well as if taken by experts in the
store. The supplementary instructions and information in this chapter as
to fashionable lengths, proper proportions, how to measure, etc., should
be of real help in arriving at well-fitting garments.
Any one can measure or be measured by another—it’s just a matter of
understanding what and how to do, and doing it _that way_.
The customer should be sure that he stands in a natural position,
without inflating or contracting the chest. Any deviation from the
natural form will affect the fit of the garment. Remove from pockets
anything of a bulky nature before measuring.
Coat and overcoat measurements should always be taken over the vest. The
length of the coat and the length of the sleeve are the first
measurements to be taken. In taking sleeve measurements the arm should
be held about on a level with the shoulder, the elbow crooked at right
angles, which will make the hand about twelve inches from the face.
Measure from center seam in back over elbow to the hand side of wrist
joint. In taking the length of coat, measure from seam where collar
joins the coat to proper length. The length should be regulated by your
desire and hight; see also the proportionate tables.
After taking these two measurements (with the coat on) remove the coat
and take the breast measure over the vest. Be sure that the tape is
straight around the body over shoulder blades and close up under the
arms. If the stomach is prominent, in addition to the waist measure,
another measure should be taken around the larger part, a little lower
down.
Vest measurements should be taken over the vest, using the vest one has
on as a pattern. The tape should be drawn from seam at back of neck to
top button of the vest. If a higher or lower vest than the one worn is
desired, allowances should be made. For a double-breasted vest the
measurement should be taken to the point of the V opening and not to the
first button. The second measure should extend from seam at back of neck
as before to bottom of vest. The breast measure for the vest should be
the same as for the coat.
In measuring trousers one must stand erect. Place end of tape as close
up in crotch, on inside of leg, as you can get it and measure from that
point to where the heel joins the shoe. In measuring waist take length
around the top of trousers over the waistband. Always use the trousers
one has on as a guide for measurements, making the leg wider or narrower
as desired. The knee measurement should usually be about two inches
larger than the bottom measure. The average size for knee is 18½ inches
and for bottom 16½ inches; see also proportionate tables following. That
the cutter may make trousers of proper proportion at bottom, be sure and
indicate the size of shoe worn and state if the instep is high or low.
“Right dress” and “left dress,” indicating a certain difference in the
crotch-fulness of one trouser leg, is also important.
Describe your physical peculiarities minutely—and be sure that the
descriptions are accurate in every detail. These descriptions are
sometimes as important to a cutter as are the measurements. In making
descriptions be sure and remove the coat; coats are often padded so as
to overcome natural defects. Any irregularities in the form should be
clearly indicated on the order.
Be sure and state whether or not the measurements are taken over light
or heavy underwear, also if garment is to be worn over light or heavy
underwear. State if broad, sloping or regular shoulders; erect, stooping
or extra so either way; whether short or long neck and if the neck is
thick or thin—better give shirt collar size; give age, hight, weight and
your business, which will obviate a minister getting clothes a racing
man might wish, or vice versa. A photograph helps much.
When ordering overcoats to be worn over frock or dress coats, care
should be taken to have the overcoat at least two inches longer than the
under coat.
The width of legs of trousers should vary according to the size of the
seat measure. The usual measurements are:
When seat measures less than 36, knee 18, bottom 16.
When seat measures from 37 to 44, knee 19, bottom 17.
When seat measures over 44, knee 20, bottom 18.
Don’t attempt to make allowance measures for peg-top or half-peg
trousers unless one has an old pair to be copied exactly. Take ordinary
measurements and say in the letter of instructions just how full they
are to be—the cutter, if he knows his business, knows better than the
customer what to do.
Use care in giving weight, hight and age; they are a great help to the
cutter and almost indispensable to a successful fit.
Compare the measurements as written on the order sheet with the
foregoing chart. While there may be some variation, due to physical
differences, and for which scientific allowance will be made by the
cutter if necessary, the lengths of coats and vests should be given on
the order as in the table if one wishes garments cut in the fashion of
the day—it being understood that freak garments such as undergraduates
and rounders affect are not bound by these wise and sane suggestions.