Here’s your “mentor, guide and friend”
══════════╤═════════╤═════════╤═════════╤════════════╤════════════╤═════════
│ Formal │Informal │ Formal │Informal Day│ Business │ Outing,
│ Evening │ Evening │ Day │ Occasions │ Wear │Motoring,
│Occasions│Occasions│Occasions│ (4) │ (5) │ Etc.
│ (1) │ (2) │ (3) │ │ │ (6)
──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
Evening │ YES │ yes │ no │ no │ no │ no
dress │ │ │ │ │ │
coat │ │ │ │ │ │
──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
Tuxedo │ no │ YES │ no │ no │ no │ no
coat │ │ │ │ │ │
──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
Prince │ no (14) │ yes (?) │ YES │ yes │ no (?) │ no
Albert │ │ (14) │ │ │ │
──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
Cutaway or│ no │ no │ no (?) │ YES │ yes │ no
walking │ │ │ (15) │ │ │
coat │ │ │ │ │ │
──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
Sack coat │ no │ no │ no │ no │ YES │ yes
(7) │ │ │ │ │ │
──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
Norfolk │ no │ no │ no │ no │ no │ YES
jacket │ │ │ │ │ │
──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
Waistcoat │WHITE or │ black │ white, │white, fancy│ SAME or │ use
(18a) │ black │ (17) │fancy or │or SAME (18)│ fancy (18) │optional
(8) │ (16) │ │SAME (18)│ │ │
──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
Trousers │ black │ black │ same or │ same or │ │same (18)
(18a) │ │ │ fancy │ fancy (18) │ │
│ │ │ (18) │ │ │
──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
Skirted │yes (19) │ yes │ YES │ yes │ yes │ seldom
overcoat│ │ │ │ │ │ (20)
(9) │ │ │ │ │ │
──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
Sack │ yes │ yes │ yes │ YES │ YES │if needed
overcoat│ │ │ │ │ │
(10) │ │ │ │ │ │
──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
Top coat │ no │ no │ no │ yes │ YES │ YES
──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
Raincoat │yes (21) │ yes │ yes │ yes │ yes │ yes
──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
Ulster │ no │ no │ no (?) │ no (?) │ YES │ YES
──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
Shirt and │ white │ white │ white │ white │ white or │ fancy
cuffs │ │ │ │ │ fancy │
(11) │ │ │ │ │ │
──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
Collar │standing │ fold or │standing │standing or │ folded or │folded or
│ │ wing │ or wing │ wing │ wing │ soft
──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
│white tie│black tie│white or │Four-in-hand│Four-in-hand│ tie or
Cravat │ │ │ fancy │ or ascot │ or tie │kerchief
│ │ │ ascot │ │ │ (22)
──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
│PEARL or │ gold │ gold │ gold │ gold │ gold
Jewelry │ moon │ │ │ │ │
(12) │ stone │ │ │ │ │
│ (23) │ │ │ │ │
──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
Gloves │WHITE or │ gray │ gray │gray or TAN │gray or TAN │ tan or
(13) │ black │ │ │ │ │ chamois
──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
│ silk or │FEDORA or│silk (26)│ Silk or │ Derby or │Cap (26)
Hat │ opera │ derby │ │ fedora │ fedora │
│ (24) │ (25) │ │ │ │
──────────┼─────────┼─────────┼─────────┼────────────┼────────────┼─────────
│ PATENT │ patent │ patent │ patent │black or tan│tan lace
Shoes │BUTTON or│button or│ button │ button │ button or │shoes or
│ pumps │ lace │ │ │ lace shoes │ oxfords
│ (27) │ │ │ │ or oxfords │
──────────┴─────────┴─────────┴─────────┴────────────┴────────────┴─────────
EXPLANATORY: (1) Evening wedding, balls, receptions, opera, dinner;
(2) club, stag, informal and home dinners; (3) day weddings,
receptions, afternoon calls, matinees; (4) church, promenade,
afternoon teas, matinees; (5) business and professional routine; (6)
golf, motoring, outing and country; (7, 8, 9) single or
double-breasted; (10) single-breasted, fly-front sack overcoat; (11)
for 1, 2, 3, 4 white dress shirt and cuffs; for 5, white or fancy,
dress or plaited bosom; for 6, neglige cotton, linen or flannel; (12)
links and studs only with 1 and 2, cravat pin and watch fob or chain
with 3, 4, 5, 6 optional; (13) glace or suede kid optional; cape or
chamois preferable with 6; (14) the double-breasted frock is the
proper dress coat for clergymen upon all occasions; (15) the flapt
walking coat of conspicuously patterned material is not good form, tho
the cutaway frock of plain fabrics and style is allowable; (16)
figured gray silk is allowable; (17) white, also figured gray silk,
allowable, but black is preferable; (18) “same” means same as coat;
(18a) if fancy waistcoat is worn trousers must match coat, if fancy
trousers are worn waistcoat must match coat; (19) business cape coat
is preferable for strictly formal dress; (20) frock coats are correct
for driving, races, hunting, etc.; (21) obviously not if of tan color
or conspicuously figured pattern; (22) or soft stock; (23) very small
gold studs are unobjectionable, diamonds and the like absolutely
impossible; (24) fedora is allowable, derby never; (25) silk is
considered bad taste, opera hat the hight of vulgarity; (26) fedora
permissible; (27) pumps preferable for dancing; (?) sometimes
allowable; small capitals indicate order of preference.