Footnote 1:
New definitions, afterthoughts, omissions, and the like.
=Adonisbelt=—proprietary name for a sort of suspensory bandage, so that
a man, drest a la Henrydixeyadonis, may have his trousers cut “no
dress”.
=Arms=—bearings or devices which a person is (or assumes to be) entitled
to emblazon upon his escutcheon; something that, like forbidden fruit,
is shamelessly coveted (or manufactured) in democratic America.
=Back scye=—the back part of the scye. See Scye and Front of scye.
=Bagman=—British for traveling salesman.
=Bandoline=—a gummy preparation for plastering or glossing the hair.
=Bar coat=—see Bartender’s c.
=Bartender’s coat=—a short jacket, usually of white duck and buttoned to
the neck.
=Belwarp=—a name given to English worsteds of peculiar formation, having
some resemblance to chain-weave worsteds.
=Blouse collar=—same as Prussian c.
=Blunt corners=—not coming to a point but given a short rounding, as
lapel edges, wing (shirt) collars, etc.
=Body belt=—same as Waist b.
=Bosom shirt=—a s. with a shield or built-up bosom.
=Bottom-fulness=—tailoring term for amplitude of skirt, as in a frock
coat; belled.
=Box sack=—a loose, boxy sack coat, usually double-breasted, with a long
roll and wide button-spread.
=Breadth=—width; a “breadth” of goods is its square, “two breadths”
twice its width (in length), and so on.
=Busby cord=—a sort of aigulet attacht to a busby cap, worn draped over
the shoulder.
=Business cutaway=—same as Walking frock and English walking frock.
=Button-spread=—the distance between buttons horizontally, on a
double-breasted coat.
=Buttoned oxford=—a buttoned low shoe. See Oxford tie.
=Cabbage=—tailoring slang meaning the amount of material a “jour” can
save of the silk thread, tape, linings, etc., given him for the making
of a garment, such savings or surpluses being, by custom, regarded as
his perquisites and which he quietly “cabbages” (or keeps), whence name.
=Calves=—pre-requisite to the dignified wearing of knee breeches and the
chief reason why artistic dress reform invariably fails.
=Cap cover=—a detachable c. for a cap, protectiv or otherwise.
=Captain-general’s coat=—see Knights Templar uniform.
=Cat-stitch=—a crost s. on edges to prevent raveling. See Serging.
=Chin-scale= (=s=)—a chin strap of linkt metal plates or scales, as with
certain military caps.
=Cielette=—a name for one of numerous processes of waterproofing
woolens, worsteds, etc.
=Clad=—drest.
=Clerical cloak=—a long cape-like overgarment with collar, but without
sleeves, buttoned down the front.
=Coat of arms=—originally, a surcoat charged with heraldic devices;
hence, the armorial bearings, collectivly, of any person.
=Collar stand=—see Stand.
=Congress gaiter=—same as C. shoe.
=Crest=—(1) modernly, a plume, pompon, tuft, etc., on a uniform cap or
hat; (2) in heraldry, a warrior’s device, usually supported upon a
wreath or coronet.
=D’Elia indicator=—see Tailoring i. (D’Elia, inventor.)
=Escutcheon=—a shield shaped surface for armorial bearings.
=Everstick=—proprietary name for a make of semi-invisible rubber
overshoes so contrived as to cling closely to the edges of the sole of a
shoe without covering the uppers in front, but covering the entire heel.
=Exaggerated=—in tailoring meaning made larger than is actually
necessary to give a clean fit.
=Extension heel=—see E. sole.
=Extension sole=—in shoemaking, a s. that extends or projects out
considerably from the uppers, giving a broad tread.
=False back skirt=—in tailoring, the s. of a frock coat made with a
whole back and to which an extra piece of goods has been attacht to the
right skirt beneath the opening so there will be no gaping when the
skirts spread. Compare Frock b., Whole b., Step b., Stubbed b.
=Field=—the top of a uniform cap.
=First-over=—tailoring term, meaning strap measurement (qv); the first
measurement over the shoulder.
=Footless stocking=—a s. made without a foot, but with a retaining strap
or band reaching beneath the foot; once a favorit s. with bicyclers who
usually wore a light cotton sock beneath, if the footless s. was of wool
or tickly worsted. Also called strap-ends, in the trade.
=Footman’s coatee=—a frock coat shaped somewhat like an evening dress
coat but of livery cloth and with shorter skirts which are prest flat
and have full length side edges; the fronts meet at the end of the roll
and are closed with loopt buttons.
=Frock back=—tailor’s term for the b. of a frock coat made with a center
seam and open skirts. Compare Stubbed b., Whole b., Step b., False b.,
Skirt.
=Front of scye=—meaning obvious. Compare Back scye and Scye.
=Full box=—tailoring term for an exaggerated box coat; very full and
loose in every way.
=Furnisher=—same as haberdasher.
=Gaiter=—see Congress shoe.
=Gilded youth=—the idol (and eke despair) of multitudinous equivocal
ladies and ambitious shopkeepers.
=Gilt edge=—synonym for extra quality.
=Gladstone bag=—a traveling b., usually of leather or imitations
thereof, flat sided, taller than its width, hinged at the bottom and
opening into equal-sized sides. Also called Railroad b.
=Glottolin=—a German preparation, recently placed on the market, for
soothing tender and sensitiv necks; rubbed on a rough-edged collar it
will make the collar, it is said, easy and comfortable to wear.
=Gum boots=—vernacular for rubber b.
=Highwater pants=—too short.
=Jimmal ring=—see Gemel r.
=Knights Templar uniform=—the full u. for officers consists of coat and
trousers of black cloth, baldric, belt, sword, shoulder straps,
gauntlets and plumed chapeau; and frequently a cape or cloak of black
beaver. Commanders and past commanders wear gold wherever metal appears,
but other officers and Sir Knights wear white except for buttons and
shoulder straps, which are of gold—the Prelate alone excepted, whose
belt is of black leather, and buttons of black silk or lasting. The
Commander, Past Commander, Generalissimo and Captain-General wear a
double-breasted military frock coat lined with black.
=Leather goods=—trade term embracing light leather manufactures, such as
luggage, pocketbooks, belts, shawl straps and the like, but not applied
to shoes, harness, machinery belting and heavy manufactures.
=List=—(1) a price schedule; (2) a price from which a discount is
allowed.
=Mackinette=—proprietary name for raincoats. (Not distinctiv.)
=Men’s furnisher=—same as haberdasher.
=Men’s furnishings=—shirts, collars, cuffs, underwear, hosiery,
suspenders, neckwear, pyjamas, jewelry, fancy waistcoats, bathrobes,
bathing suits, etc.
=Men’s wear=—(1) broadly, anything for men to wear or use as
distinguisht from articles or goods for women’s wear; (2) in the woolens
trade the heavy suitings, coatings, etc., as distinguisht from the
lighter dress goods, cloakings, etc., for women’s wear.
=Muto coat=—proprietary name for an overcoat, recently introduced,
convertible from an ordinary dressy street c. into an auto driving or
storm c., the feature being a collar which may be adjusted as a stept
lapel collar or as a high banded Prussian or cadet collar with coat
buttoned to the neck.
=Napkin=—an article of table linen used or misused in a manner
indicating one’s breeding.
=Narrow wale=—obviously, the reverse of wide w. (qv); most frequently
applied to diagonal suitings of close uniform ribs, whether flat or
prominent.
=Netherlings=—humorous (?) for stockings.
=Noose=—only a very small percentage of us ever have to wear one and
then but once.
=Past commander’s coat=—(=Masonic=) same as Commander’s c.
=Pickets=—an old word probably meaning the same as picot (qv), of which
it seems to be a misspelling.
=Pin ticket=—a device for marking merchandise, samples, etc., with
price, size and other memoranda; also more or less (am)usingly left
around on chairs, benches, etc.
=Pineapple cloth=—(1) a soft, filmy textil material made from the fibers
of the pineapple leaf, and of but little use in men’s wear; (2) another
name for a fine thread-about handkerchief linen; also known as shamrock
linen.
=Prelate’s coat=—(=Masonic=) see Knights Templar uniforms.
=Raiment=—why, wearing apparel!
=Rainproof=—general term for woolen and worsted coatings, suitings,
etc., rendered weatherproof or rain-repellant by any of various
processes. See Cravenette.
=Robe=—broadly, a long loose flowing gown worn over other garments, as a
judge’s or priest’s r., an academical gown, etc.; more broadly, any kind
of a costume used to cover other clothing.
=Rockler=—an old corruption of roquelaure (qv).
=Second-over=—in tailoring, a measurement taken for obtaining the
shoulder hight.
=Selling agent=—the accredited representativ (or contractual jobber or
middleman) of a mill or factory.
=Sheath coat=—see next.
=Sheath trousers=—one of the idiocies of 1908, ascribable, doubtless, to
the hysterical feminin revival of directoire immodesties and their
pernicious effect upon some men too invertebrate to uphold the precious
responsibilities of their sex.
=Shirr=—to draw into gathers; to give a puckered or drawn effect.
=Shirring string=—a stout tape or cord for drawing a part of a garment
or article together in some part or place.
=Short bosom=—a dinky sort of shirt b., supposed to be more comfortable
for day wear under a waistcoat, but about as edifying as a flapping
dicky when one catches a glimpse of it thru an opened waistcoat.
=Skuffer=—proprietary name for a make of shoes constructed on anatomical
lines, having very broad and very heavy (yet flexible) soles and broad,
low heels or wedge heels, the innersides of the heels being built to
conform to the shape of the human heel and the entire shoe, which is
made without nails, moulded into footform.
=Spread=—see Button s.
=Stand=—the inner part of a folded collar (of a coat or shirt) or that
portion on which the collar “stands”.
=Store service=—in retailing, a method (any method) of maintaining a
high standard of efficiency and esprit du corps among employes,
customers also being, in some instances and to a certain extent, taken
into the confidence of the house. In general, an effort to prevent
mistakes, waste, etc., and adjust such as may happen. A variant of
Welfare work (qv).
=Straight leg=—term applied to riding boots having little or no shape to
the leg and resembling, above the ankles, flattened cylinders.
=Strap ends=—see Footless stocking.
=Swab=—a wool pompon for a uniform cap, so-called thru resemblance to a
gunner’s s.
=Syddo=—a soft, flexible, elastic woolen fabric recently introduced as a
substitute for haircloth, claimed to possess certain working advantages
for coat fronts, being neither too stiff nor too yielding.
=Tar=—an odoriferous, dark, viscid, oily liquid sometimes applied to the
body, after other clothes have been removed, to which a decorativ and
protectiv effect is added by means of loose feathers; thus clad one is
free to seek sympathy, aid and other clothes wherever they may be had.
=Togards=—proprietary name for a sort of half-foot of stocking material
intended for wear inside the stocking to prevent those of thin or sheer
texture from wearing out too quickly.
=Tracing braid=—narrow soutache b., used largely for decorating military
uniforms, etc.
=Unclad=—nothing on.
=Uric acid test=—a test facetiously proposed during the resist
dye-guaranteed dyes agitation of 1908, when woolens and worsteds were
subjected to extraordinary tests for permanency; altho a jest, a very
practical suggestion.
=Visiting card=—a little bit of pasteboard that causes inconceivable
agony to anyone who, having made his pile, tries to break into society.
=Waiter’s jacket=—in the better restaurants (if the dress coat is not
compulsory) a sort of mess j. of black cloth or alpaca; in cheaper
restaurants a j. of white duck resembling a bartender’s coat.
=Welt flaps=—in tailoring, a welt finish to a pocket, the lower portion
being extended and free, like a flap.