=Stand-up=—same thing.
=Stander=—colloquial for a standing (shirt) collar.
=Standing band=—a sort of linen collar or neckdressing; obsolete. See
Falling b.
=Standing Prussian collar=—a P. c. made on a high band and turned over;
also called Russian c.
=Stanley helmet=—a light h. of pith, covered with pongee silk, having a
sweat band set out from the body of the hat by rigid arms, thus allowing
a circulation of air.
=Staple=—the fiber of any material, as long or shortstaple wool, cotton,
etc.
=Staples=—merchandise that is always salable, thruout the year, not
materially affected by vagaries of fashion, as plain black and blue
cloths and garments thereof, handkerchiefs, white dress shirts, black
hosiery, etc. Staples are seldom reduced or included in special sales.
Compare Fancies and Novelties.
=Start-up=—a coarse, heavy sort of buskin, worn up to almost 1800.
=Station coat=—a slip-on overcoat for riding, driving or motor wear,
made single-breasted, buttoning close to the neck, with a sort of
Prussian collar, lined thruout as usual except the skirt, which is
unlined.
=Stay tape=—narrow, white linen or cotton t. used by tailors for
reinforcing edges, seams, etc.
=Stays=—straps attacht to the bottoms of pantaloons, passing under the
foot.
=Stays=—corsets.
=Steam=—to sponge or shrink (qv); to remove bloom or gloss.
=Steam shrunk=—sponged or shrunk by being past thru perforated steam
cylinders; the opposit of cold water or London s. (qv).
=Steamer rug=—see Rug.
=Steamer trunk=—a low, flat t. that can be slipt under a stateroom
berth.
=Steinkirk=—a cravat (1674–1742) loosely folded, tied or twisted, with
ends caught in a buttonhole of the coat.
=Stem-winder=—a keyless watch.
=Step=—tailor’s term for the lower edge of the notch in lapel of coat or
waistcoat collar.
=Step-back=—tailoring term for frock coats made without plaits in the
back skirts, the back parts of the coats being continuous as usual, but
that on the left side being extended or stept-out 1½ to 2 inches at the
waist line (showing an L angle), and lapt over the other skirt, both
sides of the skirts being creast as usual down from where the sidebody
is joined to the back part. In some overcoats the step is often 3 inches
or more wide.
=Stephanotis=—a perfume derived from or imitating the odor of a plant of
the jasmin family.
=Sterling=—trade designation of silver of 925–1000 fineness.
=Sticharion=—a vestment worn by sub-deacons in the Greek and Russian
churches; a sort of dalmatic (qv) but narrower and shorter than the
similar garment worn by deacons.
=Stick-pin=—same as Scarf p.
=Stick-up collar=—British for a standing shirt c.
=Stick-up-turned down=—British for the highband, folded or double shirt
collar.
=Sticking plaster=—a surgical adhesiv p. composed of resin and litharge
in the proportion of 1 to 5, coated on cotton; familiar to foot-ballists
and other sports.
=Stiff front=—trade term for coats made with considerable heavy
haircloth workt stiffly into the front parts.
=Stiffening=—a process in hat manufacture whereby the cones after sizing
are given a firmness by means of a solution of shellac in alcohol.
=Stiletto beard=—a long, sharp imperial (qv).
=Stint rule=—see Task system.
=Stirrup hose=—woolen or cloth over-hose for riding wear (17th and 18th
centuries) made as much as two yards wide at the top and edged with
eyelet holes by means of which they were fastened to the breeches or
girdle.
=Stitches=—as used in garment making, may be classified as back s.,
back-and-fore s., bar-tack s., basting s., button s., buttonhole s.,
chain s., cross s., crow’s-foot s., drawing s., felling s., fine drawing
s., French felling s., padding s., prick s., private s., rentering s.,
running s., serging s., side s., stoating s., etc., which see.
=Stoat=—see Stoating.
=Stoating=—in tailoring the process of joining two pieces of material
together either at a point where a seam is not desired, or instead of a
seam, where thinness is the object. The material is placed edge to edge
and the stitch nearly penetrates thru to the underside, the needle
entering one piece and leaving the other at equal distances from the
join, say ¹⁄₁₆ of an inch on either side and about the same distance
apart, the thread being stretcht taut. When carefully done the join is
barely visible.
=Stock=—originally a made-up, stiffly folded cravat of linen or silk,
wrapt twice around the neck, the neck part usually with a metal spring
attacht to keep it in place when worn.
=Stock=—the merchandise in store for sale.
=Stock boy=—in wholesale houses a young devil who bothers the traveling
salesmen to take him “on the road” as assistant, and sometimes becomes a
traveler and is particularly bedeviled in turn; or, in retail and other
houses one with similar duties and proclivities.
=Stock covers=—lengths of hickory shirting or other stuff that ought to
be thrown over the stock at night.
=Stock number=—see Lot n.
=Stock-room=—a loft where reserve stocks of merchandise are housed.
=Stock whip=—a herder’s whip having a short handle with a very long lash
with snapper.
=Stockinet=—(1) an elastic textil made on a knitting frame, usually
cotton, and having a fleeced back which may be of wool, used for
undergarments, etc.; (2) a heavy elastic, close-woven material, usually
white, from which livery breeches are made.
=Stocking=—a covering for the foot and lower part of the leg,
close-fitting, elastic and usually knitted of wool, cotton or silk,
especially such as reach to the knee in contradistinction to sock or
half hose.
=Stocking frame=—(1) a machine for knitting stockings; (2) any knitting
machine.
=Stocking saver=—a soft leather heel cover with instep strap, for wear
inside of shoes.
=Stocking yarn=—loosely spun, coarse, woolen y. for heavy socks, hoods,
mittens, etc., designed for hand knitting.
=Stockinger=—a knitter or weaver of stockings; a hosier (obsolete.)
=Stockingless=—having or wearing no stockings. You’ve heard of Hon.
“Sockless” Jerry Simpson?
=Stogy=—(n) a coarse, stout boot or shoe. (Colloquial.)
=Stogy=—(adj) heavy; coarse; clumsy.
=Stole=—an ecclesiastical vestment; a long, narrow strip of the same
material as the chasuble, with one to three crosses embroidered upon it
with other elaborate decoration; worn as a symbol of priestly
jurisdiction, in the administration of all the sacraments, at mass, etc.
At mass the priest wears it crost over his left breast, the deacon over
his left shoulder; at other times hanging straight down.
=Stone marten=—the beach m.; fur largely used for winter garments.
=Stonine=—a white, marble-like composition used for shirt studs, cuff
buttons, etc., for evening dress wear.
=Stoop shouldered=—having roundish shoulders with a forward inclination.
=Store=—a place where you buy things.
=Store clothes=—readymade; not homemade.
=Storm boot=—an extra high-cut lace shoe, usually blucher model, and of
stout leather, commonly waterprooft.
=Storm coat=—a rainproof c.; a mackintosh; an ulster.
=Storm collar=—in tailoring (1) a separate, large, standing c. or
muffler, usually of fur, for rough outdoor wear, used over overcoats;
(2) a deep ulster c.
=Storm hat=—a sou’wester.
=Storm hood=—a sort of sou’wester with a cape all around.
=Storm-proof=—said of viscolized or oil-drest tramping boots or shoes;
of rainproof overcoatings, etc.
=Storm serge=—differing from other serges chiefly in being heavier and
in having the bloom or high finish removed by steaming.
=Storm tabs=—straps or short belts attacht to overcoat or ulster sleeves
at the wrist for purpose of closing the opening against the weather.
=Stormer=—an ulster (qv).
=Stote=—see Stoat.
=Stouts=—clothing trade term for readymade garments designed to fit
corpulent persons or those with waist more than normal or the same as
the breast measure. Compare Short s., Long s. and Extra s.
=Stove-pipe=—a silk hat.
=Straight=—one of the old names for kersey (qv).
=Straight box=—trade term for coats cut with straight side seams and
full backs without center seams.
=Straight collar=—trade term for coat collars made with a straight
under-line and without excessive paring of the neck of the garment as in
the case of horseshoe c. (qv). This style c. is best made by hand and is
a characteristic of fine tailoring, distinguisht for fitting the neck
closely and neatly.
=Straight front sack=—a s. coat not rounded or cut away at the bottom
corners, but hanging straight down.
=Straight front single-breasted frock=—same as s. b. frock, and s. b.
“Prince Albert.”
=Straight jacket=—a garment unfortunately little used outside of insane
asylums.
=Straight lace=—trade term for regular style laced shoes or Balmorals,
distinguishing them from the flapt or Blucher style laced shoe.
=Straight stander=—a plain, standing shirt collar.
=Straightening=—in clothes manufacture the operation of trimming the
edges of coats after being underprest.
=Strand=—a fiber, warp or weft yarn, string, etc.
=Strap=—tailoring term for (1) that part of a coat embraced in strap
measurement (qv); (2) in an evening dress coat an L shaped extension of
the skirt to the point of the front of forepart, forming a waistline
seam therewith.
=Strap ends=—that part where boot (or shoe) straps are sewed into the
boot (or shoe).
=Strap measure=—tailors’ term for the measurement taken from bottom of
arm scye, over the front of shoulder, to seam on top where the back part
is joined.
=Strap seam=—in tailoring the two parts are first joined by a plain or
regular s. and prest open as usual, after which a strip of material is
basted over the face of the s. and then stitcht.
=Strapt trousers=—having straps and buckles affixt to bottoms, passing
beneath arch of shoe. (=Strapped.=)
=Straw=—cattle feed used in making summer hats.
=Straw cotton=—c. thread especially prepared for sewing straw, as in hat
making.
=Straw hat=—worn only from June 1st to September 1st. Specially
designated as alpine, boater, mackinaw, milan, panama, sennit, yacht,
etc., which see.
=Straw needle=—a long, slender n. used in straw hat making.
=Strawberry blonde=—red haired.
=Street covert=—a top coat.
=Street gloves=—g. of heavy leather. Compare Dress g.
=Street railway conductor’s uniform=—varies with different roads and in
different cities; most commonly a sack suit of dark blue cloth, the coat
double-breasted in winter and single-breasted in summer, with an extra
number of pockets very strongly made and re-enforced with cloth around
the openings, which are slasht or without flaps, brass buttons; blue
cloth cap with numbered badge.
=Strength test=—(silk thread) pure dye silk thread running 800 hundred
yards to the ounce should be about 8 pounds strength; 1000 yards to
ounce breaking at 6 to 6½ pounds, etc.
=Strength tester=—any machine or device for testing the strength of
fibers, yarns, fabrics, etc.
=Stretch=—tailoring term signifying joining a smaller to a larger part;
stretching an edge to more than its cut dimension, etc., for purposes of
shapeliness, style, etc. Compare Hold in.
=Stretch block=—a wooden or metal device, a sort of last operated by a
screw, used by hatters to stretch hats to larger sizes.
=Stretcher=—same as Litter (qv).
=Stretching=—a process in hat manufacture, following stiffening (qv) and
preceding blocking (qv).
=Stride=—the fork or crotch seam of trousers.
=Striking bag=—same as punching b.
=Striking bag gloves=—see Punching b. g.
=String out=—said of silk fabrics the warp and weft of which, in wear,
slip or slide aside or pull, leaving unsightly spots.
=Stripes=—see Trousers s.
=Stripes=—cant for prison clothes (qv).
=Stripy=—trade term for harsh, inelastic, non-curly wool fleece, used
only for inferior goods.
=Stroke coat=—same as golf coat, tho a more appropriate name.
=Strop=—see Razor s.
=Stubbed=—shortened, abbreviated. (Tailoring.)
=Stubbed back=—tailoring term for a frock coat having a back which is
cut across at the waist line and having the plaited part of the skirt
(which may be closed or open-lapt) sewed thereto. Compare Frock b.,
Whole b., Step b., False b., Skirt, etc.
=Stubble=—sign that a shave is needed.
=Stud holes=—small round eyelets workt into a shirt bosom.
=Student cap=—same as mortarboard or Oxford c. (qv).
=Studs=—shirt bosom jewelry.
=Stuft leather=—leather filled with oil or other greasy liquid for a
specific purpose, as waterproofing.
=Stump=—a pointed roll of paper, felt or chamois used by artists in
blending drawings and by actors in blending the grease paints used in
making up.
=Stumpt=—said of frock coat back parts that are not continuous but are
cut across at the waist line and then continued therefrom in the skirts.
(=Stumped.=)
=Style=—a will o’ the wisp that men chase quite as assiduously as women;
the touch of la mode that wanes ere it is recognized; a something as
insubstantial as the favor of rulers, as light as the air, as protean as
a hurricane, and fickle as a woman who knows her beauty and how to use
it; a leading pursuit of the frivolous and wealthy and a Godsend to
merchants and manufacturers.
=Style-book=—a pictorial eulogy of the sartorial abilities of the
publishers, which, if deficient, can be glost over by a clever writer
and a cleverer artist.
=Styler=—one who designs or advises as to styles, patterns, etc., for
manufacturers of articles of apparel.
=Stylish=—in the current mode; not last season’s; popular; a common
adjectiv in Grand street.
=Stylist=—see Styler.
=Styptic pencil=—an antiseptic healer of cuts, popular with
self-shavers. Also called S. stick.
=Sub=—affectionate for substitute, an extra or temporary clerk.
=Subbing=—helping out or taking another clerk’s place temporarily; doing
other than one’s regular work.
=Subfusk=—dusky or dull of hue; of a dark but indefinable color.
=Substitute=—see Sub.
=Substitute=—something otherwise than as ordered.
=Substitution=—an ineradicable evil.
=Suede=—glove leather from which the face cuticle has been removed by
shaving and pumicing, the flesh or inner side of the skin forming the
outside of a glove and having a soft, velvety or ooze finish; “undrest
kid”.
=Sugar loaf=—a high, silk hat, narrowing toward the top.
=Suint=—see Yolk.
=Suit=—(1) coat, waistcoat and trousers; (2) undershirt and drawers; (3)
pajama blouse and trousers; (4) bathing trunks and shirt, etc.
=Suit bag=—a style of hand luggage of great capacity, shaped somewhat
like a s. case, but opening from a common center-hinge into two equal
parts.
=Suit case=—a long, flat, rectangular traveling bag or portmanteau,
usually of leather, of such size that coats, trousers, etc., may be
carried therein with the least amount of folding.
=Suit case umbrella=—an u. with a folding rod or a detachable handle,
effecting a reduction in length, enabling the u. to be carried inside
the case.
=Suit club=—an association of deluded persons who agree to pay into a
common fund (usually held by the organizer of the club, who conducts all
its affairs, more or less to his own or only benefit), a fixt sum per
week. A drawing by lot determins who shall get his suit that week, after
which, ordinarily, he pays no further dues; and so on until the last man
gets his suit, of course by paying more than anyone else, altho he may
believe that he is paying no more than the clothes are worth, by reason
of specious arguments about quantity-buying advanced by the plausible
organizer of the club, the inducement to all the members being the
element of chance, or rather prospect of being among the earliest and
least taxt buyers. Of course, there are occasionally formed clubs where
all members pay the same amount from first to last, there being no
pecuniary inducement beyond the easy payment plan and the possibility of
being an early winner. The first form of s. c. has repeatedly been
declared illegal by the courts but is hard to suppress, despite the
exemplary punishment meted out to the offenders.
=Suit-coat=—tailor’s term for distinguishing a garment so markt as part
of a suit order, and not a complete order in itself.
=Suit of hair=—a head of hair. (Southern colloquialism.)
=Suit-pants=—see S.-coat.
=Suit-vest=—see S.-coat.
=Sulfuric acid test=—(cotton vs. linen). After having been freed from
the finishing materials the sample of cloth is treated for one or two
minutes in concentrated English sulfuric-acid, then rinsed well in
water, and dried between blotting-papers. Cotton is completely dissolved
in this treatment; linen remains unaffected. This test is suitable for
colored goods, and by weighing the samples before and after treatment
the quantity of each material can be approximated.
=Sumac=—any shrub or tree of the genus rhus; the bark thereof used in
tanning.
=Summer garters=—g. specially for wear with knee drawers, having no
metal parts to come in corrosiv contact with moist flesh.
=Summer undress=—(=marine corps, etc.=), see Undress, White dress, Field
dress, et var.
=Summer weight=—in the cloth trade suitings of 11 to 14 ounces are so
known. Compare Winter w., Spring w., Fall w., Tropical w.
=Sun test=—see Exposure t.
=Sun umbrella=—an u. usually of cotton material, of tan or buff color
outside and with a green or blue inside, the lining color being printed.
=Sunday-go-to-meeting-clothes=—the best one has.
=Sunshade=—a sun umbrella (qv).
=Sunshade hat=—a collapsible h. of light-weight cotton material having a
very long and wide brim stretcht on wire; used by amateur fishermen.
=Super=—see Wool.
=Superfine=—the finest grade of dress broadcloths.
=Superlative measures=—a system of tailors’ measurements embracing
features of both long and short measure systems, with which, for
comparison, the former may be considered the allopathic, the
latter homeopathic, and the superlative eclectic schools of
clothes-prescribing.
=Supporter=—(1) a contrivance for holding up some portion of one’s
apparel, as garters, braces, etc.; (2) a surgical or hygienic appliance
for holding in place or assisting localized physical weaknesses, as a
laced waistband with an underpart reaching thru the crotch from front to
back to support the parts.
=Suppression=—tailoring term indicating close-shaping of the waist, as
of a coat.
=Surah=—a soft, fine twilled, silk fabric, usually plain dyed.
=Surcharged=—weighted; loaded in dyeing and finishing.
=Surcoat=—(1) a long c. or cassock worn over a vest or undercoat; (2) a
loose robe worn over armor, in the middle ages.
=Surgeon’s gown=—a long, plain g., completely enveloping the figure,
closing at the throat, with draw strings or elastics in the cuffs, with
or without hood; usually of white cotton material.
=Surgeon’s plaster=—see Sticking p.
=Surplice=—a garment of linen worn by all clerics and assistants in
choir and by priests in the administration of the sacraments. Also
called cotta.
=Surtout=—an overcoat made in the style of a frock coat; a Newmarket
(qv).
=Surveyor’s boot=—see Prospector’s b.
=Suspender button=—one of the petty annoyances of men living in single
unblessedness.
=Suspenders=—devices for keeping one’s trousers neatly and modestly in
place.
=Suspensory=—an arrangement of straps and bag to sustain the scrotum.
=Swaddling clothes=—known since Moses’ time, at least.
=Swallowtail=—see Evening dress.
=Swanga-buckra=—a negro epithet for a well-drest white man.
=Swap=—when a prospectiv customer does not purchase he is said to have
given the salesman a “swap”; derivation of term unknown.
=Swathling clothes=—see Swaddling c.
=Swayback=—meaning that a man’s attitude tries to imitate Hogarth’s line
of beauty.
=Sweat lining=—in hats and caps usually a lining band of soft leather,
occasionally patent leather, or other material.
=Sweat shop=—in garment making a shop not owned by the manufacturer but
by a contractor, who pays low wages; a home shop where various members
of the family are employed; popularly a shop where disease and contagion
are supposed to be imminent if not actually existent, and where the
operators are virtual slaves for the sake of a pittance to buy bread.
=Sweatband=—see s. lining.
=Sweater=—a tight-fitting, ribbed, knitted jacket or shirt, of various
styles, as turtle neck s., coat s., V neck s., etc.
=Sweating=—a putrefactiv process in leather preparation for the purpose
of loosening hairs.
=Sweating system=—see Sweat shop.
=Swedish gloves=—see Suede.
=Sweet bags=—ornamental bags or pouches of perfume or aromatic
substances variously used by the beaux and belles of the romantic past.
=Swell=—a supposedly ultra-fashionable individual.
=Swelled seam=—(tailoring) the parts to be joined are basted face to
face along an outlet; this is sewed with a regular or plain s. (qv) at
the usual distance from the edge of the top piece, which is then turned
and stitcht again at the required distance from the first s. underneath
and then very lightly prest, giving the raised or swelled effect, which
is helpt by absence of any stitching holding the cloth down at the turn
of the s. Also called “raised s.” and “lap s.”; often mistakenly called
“welt s.” (qv).
=Swimming suits=—same as bathing s.
=Switch=—a riding whip.
=Swivel weaving=—in weaving, a process of achieving embroidered-like
effects on cloth, being effected by small auxiliary shuttles of colored
threads.
=Swop=—an unconsummated sale (retail slang).
=Sword belt=—a leather or canvas b. worn around the waist, supporting a
sword by straps.
=Sword cane=—a hollow walking stick with detachable handle, to which is
affixt a s. or dagger.
=Sword knot=—(=navy=) for officers, a strip of gold lace 24 inches long,
doubled, with a gold slide and surmounted at the end with a large gold
bullion tassel.
=Symmetricals=—bits of padding used by stage Venuses and Adonises.
=System=—a method of tailoring instruction for cutters, or learners; a
crank method for achieving misfits.
=Syndicate shop=—name given to any one of a chain of stores controlled
from an executiv center.
=$=—the idol of trade.
T
=Tab=—to keep tally or count.
=Tab collar=—(1) a linen wing or piccadilly shirt c.; (2) any standing
shirt c. with sewed-on tabs thru which the scarf or tie is slipt and
held in place.
=Tabard=—a sleeveless or short-sleeved outergarment worn by knights over
their armor, commonly embroidered with the arms of the wearer; the
official costume of a herald or pursuivant.
=Table=—the upper part or flat face of a brilliant cut diamond or other
precious stone.
=Table cut=—trade term for gloves cut by hand, not stampt out from a
pattern or die, ensuring a better fitting glove.
=Tabs=—small flaps on shirt collars for holding scarf in place.
=Tack=—(1) the narrowest part of the back of a frock coat; (2) that part
where the skirts are joined; (3) the top of a vent.
=Tack stay=—in tailoring a slip of interlining material used in pocket
seams, etc., at the place where a tack (qv) is made, and for its support
or strength.
=Tacking=—in shoemaking the process of placing the vamp or upper on the
last and pulling it over and tacking it onto the leather innersole on
the bottom of the last; also called “pulling over”.
=Taffeta=—a light-weight, thin, plain-woven, glossy silk fabric, finisht
in a variety of ways: as plain dyed, changeable, warp-printed, brocaded,
etc.
=Taffeta flannel=—a plain woven, light-weight wool material, with
stripes, plaids and checks, effected by colored threads in warp and
filling, coat fronts and said to be nearly unshrinkable; used chiefly
for outing shirts, pajamas, etc.
=Taffeta weave=—see Plain w.
=Taffy=—a name once given to a watered variety of taffeta silk.
=Taffy=—blarney; soft palaver.
=Tag lock=—a tangled l., as of wool on unshorn sheep.
=Taglioni=—a style of overcoat fashionable in the 50’s.
=Tahiti pearl=—trade name for a very dark, nearly black, p. shell (and
articles thereof) from Tahiti.
=Tail=—a coarser grade of wool than “breach”; also called cow-tail.
=Tail-coat=—familiar term for any skirted c., but especially for evening
dress and cutaway frock coats.
=Tailor=—generally, any one in the business of making clothes;
specifically, (1) a shopkeeper who makes clothes to order and to
measure; (2) any workmen employed in the making of clothes, whether
journeyman t., presser, operator, bushelman, etc.
=Tailor-to-the-trade=—a clothing manufacturer who makes clothes to order
for agents or other tailors; largely a mail order business; often a
concern doing business under two to four or more names, so that
customers lost by one may be sold again (note double entendre) under
another name; in such cases usually located on a corner of two streets
and, if possible, in a named building, that several different real
addresses may be used.
=Tailor’s block=—a sort of stool on which the customer being measured
poses for the admiration of other waiting customers.
=Tailor’s braid=—any b. of silk or mohair, with a flat or corded edge,
used for binding or facing garments, etc.
=Tailor’s cramp=—a cramp in the muscles of the thumb and fingers, common
among tailors and other needle workers.
=Tailor’s goose=—a smoothing iron. See Goose.
=Tailor’s muscle=—the sartorius, a long, narrow muscle of the thigh,
that aids in flexing the knee, the longest muscle in the body; so called
from its use in crossing the legs, as with tailors.
=Tailor’s silk thread sizes=—see Appendix.
=Tailor’s spasm=—a nervous affection of the hand common to
needleworkers.
=Tailor’s square=—an L shaped measuring and drafting implement, markt in
inches and in fractional computations.
=Tailor’s tack=—a strong, ornamental finish at the ends of pockets,
vents, etc. See Crow’s-foot and Bar tack.
=Tailor’s trimmings=—trade term for linings, buttons, braids, thread and
all other “notions” required by tailors.
=Tailor’s twist=—the strong silk thread used in garment making.
=Tailorage=—the product or effect of the tailor’s art: as “a great
parade of tailorage.”
=Tailoring indicator=—a machine for ascertaining with exactness all
manner of measurements, proportions, disproportions, hight, weight,
position, etc., of the customer.
=Tailorize=—to clothe or fit as a tailor does.
=Tailoroid=—a gummy preparation in stick form intended for use on edges
that are to be felled for the purpose of preventing fraying and
blistering and to ensure smoothness, firmness and flexibility of
trousers and coat bottom hems, coat collars, etc. (Proprietary.)
=Taleth=—a praying shawl of white stuff, bordered with blue, worn by
Jews at their devotions.
=Take-in=—to make narrower, shorter, snugger. (Tailoring, etc.)
=Talisman=—see Amulet.
=Tall hat=—slang for silk h.
=Talma=—a long cape or cloak, sometimes hooded, worn in first half of
19th century; named after Francois Joseph Talma, a French tragedian.
=Tam o’ Shanter=—a broad, flat, knit woolen cap with a tassel in the
center (Scotch).
=Tampico=—Istle (qv).
=Tan=—to convert hides and skins into leather by chemical treatment.
=Tan bark=—any bark, as sumac, oak, hemlock, chestnut, etc., containing
tannic acid in sufficient quantity to be useful in tanning leather.
=Tan liquor=—(1) an infusion of tan bark in water; (2) any astringent
liquor used in making leather.
=Tan pickle=—same as T. liquor.
=Tan yard=—a tannery (qv).
=Tannery=—a place where hides and skins are tanned and made into
leather.
=Tap sole=—a half s. shaped like a slip s., but nailed or attacht to the
outside of a boot or shoe and reaching only to the arch, coming next to
the ground; not a whole s. See Slip s. Also called Napoleon s.
=Tapaderos=—among Mexicans a leather covering for the protection of the
feet.
=Tape line=—an inch measure. See next.
=Tape measure=—an article, usually of fabric, printed in inches and
fractions thereof, commonly 60 inches long and half an inch wide, used
by tailors, clothiers, et al., in taking measurements.
=Taped seam=—in tailoring a strong s. used in making garments from
insubstantial or easily frayed fabrics, specifically a strip of tape
laid under a s. and stitcht to same on both sides. Compare Silesia s.
=Tar=—a boy’s sailor cap.
=Tarboosh=—a red cap with tassel of dark colored silk, and sometimes
forming the inner part of the turban, worn by men in Moslem countries.
=Tarlatan=—of interest to men chiefly when worn by coryphees of the
ballet, or when employed to keep off mosquitoes at night.
=Tartan=—a Scotch plaid.
=Task system=—a peculiar Jewish s. of garment making. A “task” is so
many garments to a day’s work for a “team” or “set”, usually 3 to 5
people. This quota must be finisht and wages are reckoned upon it. If
but five tasks, for example, are finisht in six days, the team workers
get but five days’ pay; per contra, if they can do seven tasks in six
days, they get seven days’ pay. The task s. is really piece work and is
perhaps the most ingenious and effectiv engine or over-exertion known to
modern industry.
=Tattersall=—general trade name for loud or horsey patterns in heavy
woolen vestings; the name from the famous London horse market.
=Tatterdemalion=—a raggedy one.
=Tattoo=—to decorate the human epidermis with designs pricked in with
indelible dyes.
=Tawing=—a process in leather dressing in which the gelatin of the
fibers is combined with certain mineral salts.
=Tea basket=—a sort of folding hamper with fittings for coaching party
lunches, etc.
=Team process=—see T. work.
=Team work=—tailoring term, meaning practically the same as “Section w.”
(qv), but given to a lesser number or smaller team of operators to make
and finish and consequently costing a trifle more to execute. Employed
most generally in cheap tailoring, medium grade readymade, etc.
=Tear drops=—small pear-shaped side whiskers.
=Teasel=—a machine or contrivance for dressing cloth.
=Teasel cloth=—see Flannelet.
=Teaser=—a machine having rollers of various sizes studded with pins
which open the wool and intermix or blend it before carding or combing
and spinning.
=Teck=—a readymade imitation of the knot tied with a four-in-hand scarf.
=Teddy bear=—another fad in children’s clothing of a par in sanity with
Fauntleroy, Buster Brown, Brownie, Greenaway, and other eruptions.
=Teething ring=—a large r. of rubber, ivory, pearl, etc., worn attacht
to the wrist by a blue ribbon from the age of 5 or 6 months up.
=Teetsook=—a saddle-bag made of buffalo hide, from which the hair has
been removed; in use on the plains.
=Telegraph messenger’s uniform=—(=Western Union=): double-breasted
blouse with one outside (breast) pocket and Prussian collar, red cord
trimming, trousers to match; (=Postal=): single-breasted blouse, white
cord trimming.
=Telescope=—an article of hand luggage of two parts, each shaped like
boxes without covers, one sliding or telescoping into the other and held
together by straps; usually canvas-covered with leather trimmings.
=Telescope hat=—a flat topt, soft felt h., not creast in the middle like
a fedora h., but with a gutter all around the top of the crown.
=Tennis flannel=—see Outing cloth; also Flannel.
=Tennis hat=—a light felt h. of soft texture, usually of light colors,
worn in outdoor sports.
=Tennis robe=—a sort of dressing gown for wear between dressing room and
court or while resting, usually of flannel or other light material.
=Tennis shoe=—a low s. of soft leather or canvas, having rubber soles
and low or no heels.
=Tennis ulster=—same as t. robe (qv) but fashioned especially like an
overcoat or u. and always made of light-weight cloth or flannel.
=Tenterhook willey=—see Mixing picker.
=Tentering=—the process of stretching fabrics, during the operation of
finishing, so that they may dry evenly and of a specified width.
=Territory=—wool classification term. See Wool.
=Terry=—a pile fabric in which the loops are uncut; when of cotton or
linen, largely used for bath robes, bath towels, etc.
=Terry velvet=—v. with the pile uncut.
=Test=—any means or method of determining quality, strength, etc., of
any fabric or textil material, dye, etc. See Cotton t., Linen t., Wool
t., etc.
=Testimonials=—voluntary letters written by people who want to see their
names in print; sometimes written on request.
=Tete de negre=—textil term for “niggerhead” effects.
=Teufelsdroeckh=—the Herr Professor who enunciated a great theory of
clothes. Read (and enjoy) Sartor Resartus.
=Textil=—(a) of or pertaining to weaving or woven fabrics; (n) a woven
fabric or material suitable for weaving. (=Textile.=)
=Textil silk=—see Artificial s.
=Textil soap=—general term for s. used for (1) scouring raw wool; (2)
scouring yarns, and (3) scouring and fulling of cloth; of different
composition, according to the use intended.
=Texture=—the disposition, arrangement, character or quality presented
by the threads, filaments or other components of a woven fabric; as
loose t., firm t., coarse t., etc.; or in other words, a trade term
meaning size and number of threads per inch in a fabric.
=Thatch=—unkempt hair; unshaved face growth.
=Thermos bottle=—a device consisting of a glass bottle contained within
a vacuum enclosed by another bottle encased in metal, and suitably
sealed when in use, its peculiar properties being that boiling hot
liquids may be kept hot in the lowest temperature from 24 to 48 hours,
and ice-cold liquids kept cold in tropical weather equally long, making
the device of unusual value to tourists, the sick room, etc.
=Thibet=—a soft, smooth, compact, twill woven, woolen cloth, made of
wool or cotton warp with wool filling; more elastic and softer than
melton, not so nappy as cheviot, often made in imitation of unfinisht
worsted, and largely adulterated with shortstaple wool or shoddy;
commonly dyed black or navy blue.
=Thick-set=—a sort of stout velveteen or fustian used for working
clothes, etc.
=Thimble=—a metal shield worn on one finger by tailors, seamstresses and
others, in sewing, for pushing needles thru fabrics.
=Thong=—a slender strip of leather for fastening.
=Thong stitcht=—sewed with rawhide; usually employed in connection with
athletic gloves, etc.
=Thoraki=—a peculiar sort of sack-like bloomer trousers, usually of blue
cotton, very voluminous at bottom, the legs seemingly protruding thru
the corners, worn by Greek peasants.
=Thread-about=—weaving term, meaning that the warp or weft, or more
properly both, may be of alternate material, as cotton and linen, silk
and linen, silk and wool, cotton-and-wool, etc.
=Thread marks=—when a chopt (cut-out) garment is delivered to a
journeyman tailor or operator for making up, he first proceeds to sew
thru the two parts, only one of which is markt, with white (or black)
thread wherever the cutter has indicated pockets, buttons, seam lines,
etc., which when split apart leave both sides (which being cut in
duplicate were hitherto markt [in chalk] only on one piece) equally and
more permanently markt alike by bits of thread; these bastings, of
course, being removed as the garment is completed.
=Threadbare=—worn down to the warp; seedy.
=Three balls=—the arms of everybody’s uncle.
=Three-cockt hat=—see below.
=Three cornered hat=—a h. with brim turned up and fastened to side of
crown in three places; first worn in England during reign of William
III. Also called three-cockt h. See Continental h.
=Three-eighths=—see Wool.
=Three-seamer=—term used early in last century among English tailors
referring to coats made with three principal seams.
=Three-square hat=—same as three-cornered h.
=Throat point=—that part of the shoe where the vamp and the top come
together in front of the instep.
=Through-and-through=—see Thru-and-thru.
=Throwing=—the processes (winding, cleaning, doubling, twisting,
re-winding, reeling, etc.) of putting raw silk into the threads required
for the different kinds of weaving; these threads are known as singles,
tram, and organzine (qv).
=Throwster=—a worker in a silk mill.
=Thru-and-thru=—trade term for worsteds in which the pattern shows on
the back as well as the face; the opposit of backt cloth; specially
indicating finer quality. (=Through-and-through.=)
=Thru-lighting test=—(cotton vs. linen.) When a linen fabric is held
between the light and the eyes of the observer, it appears to be
striped; cotton cloth is uniform.
=Thrum=—(1) the fringe of warp threads remaining on a loom after the web
has been cut off; (2) coarse or waste yarn.
=Thumb cuff=—a metallic article of apparel carried by the police of some
cities, conferred upon the party honored by placing over his thumbs and
locking same together, being considered neater and more effectiv than
handcuffs.
=Thumb test=—a common method of testing the tensil strength of fabrics,
the material being taken in both hands and stretcht over the thumbs,
which are held close together, and act as a straining or breaking point.
=Tick mitten=—loose m. of stout ticking used by truck drivers, farm
laborers, etc.
=Ticket pocket=—see Change p.
=Ticking=—a stout, twilled cotton or linen material, with woven or
printed stripes, employed for tents, mattress covers, carpenters’
aprons, etc.
=Tidy=—neat.
=Tie=—see Wig.
=Tie clip=—see Scarf fastener.
=Tied-and-dried=—dyer’s term, indicating that the design or pattern has
been achieved by tying the material (silk or cotton cloth, etc.) tightly
into knots before immersion into the dye, which results in a solid
ground color, having peculiar designs where the dye was unable to
penetrate the t. spots.
=Tiftik=—Turkish for mohair.
=Tight roll=—trade term for umbrellas, usually with a light steel rod,
and covered with light-weight silk, designed to roll very closely or
tight. Also called “close r.”
=Tights=—(1) a skin-fitting garment, preferably of silk, largely worn by
actors and acrobats for facilitating action and displaying the form;
sometimes covering the body, but more commonly the legs; (2) a
tight-fitting undergarment.
=Tights=—one of the old names for knee breeches or “shorts”.
=Tile=—a hat; particularly, a tall silk h.
=Tillet=—a thin linen fabric stiffened with glue and used in the first
half of the last century as a stiffening for coat fronts, collars, etc.
=Tin=—used largely in weighting cheap silks.
=Tinsel braid=—any braid of finely spun metal threads, woven in a
variety of patterns, used for livery, uniforms, etc.
=Tinsel brocade=—see Brocade.
=Tip=—a protectiv or ornamental cap over the toe of a shoe.
=Tip printer=—one who prints hat tips (qv).
=Tippet=—(1) a long, knit, woolen scarf, worn as a muffler; (2) a fur
shoulder cape; (3) a shoulder scarf worn by clergymen in place of a hood
(see Amice).
=Titan braid=—see Hercules b.
=Tobacco pouch=—a small bag of soft leather, rubber or other material.
=Tobago=—a palm grown in the West Indies and tropical America, the
slender stems of which are used for walking sticks, etc.
=Toboggan cap=—a knitted, woolen c., usually all white or in bright
parti-colors, conical in shape, of various lengths, the apex finisht
with a tassel, the open-end being folded up one or more times until the
effect suits the mind and the head of the wearer; sometimes worn over
the ears.
=Toe plate=—(1) see shoe p.; (2) a brass or aluminum cap worn at the
outer edge of the toe of a shoe (as baseball s.) for protection.
=Toff=—vernacular for a flashy dresser; a dude. (British.)
=Toga=—an elliptical mantle, about 5 × 4 yards in size, worn doubled and
gathered on the left shoulder, so as to hang in broad folds—worn by the
old Romans.
=Togged to the nines=—nautical slang for an officer in full dress.
=Toggery=—clothes.
=Togs=—clothes.
=Toile=—French for fabric.
=Toilet=—the process of dressing.
=Toilet paper=—soft, thin, tender, manilla tissue p., readily soluble,
for use in water closets.
=Toilet soap=—s. with its constituent greases disguised by high
perfumes.
=Toilet water=—a dilute perfume.
=Toilinet=—a stout, closely woven, vesting material, usually of silk or
cotton warp with wool filling, plain or loom figured. (=Toilinette.=)
=Tom Astoner=—nautical slang for a gay, dashing fellow.
=Tommyhole=—the accommodation opening in front of a boy’s first pants.
=Toney=—good style; smart; good form.
=Tongs=—trousers or overalls of tow or nativ cloth, worn by farm
laborers in Colonial days; nickname for first long t. of boys of
Revolutionary times: similar to the pantaloons of 1820.
=Tongue=—a strip of leather, loose or partly or wholly attacht up the
sides, for closing the gap of a laced shoe. See Bellows t.
=Tonsorial=—of or pertaining to a barber.
=Tonsure=—the crown of the head shaven, leaving a surrounding fringe.
=Toorie=—the tassel on a Glengarry cap.
=Toothpick=—sometimes used in place of suspender buttons.
=Toothpick collar=—in tailoring a very slender or narrow coat c.
=Toothpick toe=—a very sharp-pointed t.—a shoe fashion now thankfully
out of mind.
=Top boots=—b. with high tops, straight or flaring, and frequently of
different color leather, sometimes richly decorated; worn by carriage
servants, jockeys, sportsmen, and formerly for ostentatious dress, as
part of military uniform, etc. See also Jack b.
=Top coat=—a light overcoat.
=Top hat=—a high silk h.; a “topper”.
=Top lift=—the outer or finishing layer of leather on the heel of a
shoe.
=Top piece=—the same.
=Top pocket=—a p. in trousers, the opening of which extends in a
diagonal line from a point midway between the two front waistband
buttons to a point on the side seam a few inches below the waistband.
=Top-shirt=—same as over-s.; a working s.
=Top side=—tailor’s term for the t. or upper part of a pattern, as the
t. part of a sleeve.
=Topper=—(1) a “top” or silk hat; (2) a top coat.
=Toppiness=—wool trade term for a sort of uneven felting of fibers at
the top of the fleece.
=Tops=—(1) the long, straight fibers of wool—term used during combing
process; (2) bundles of 1½ pounds of combed wool ready for spinning.
=Toque=—a knitted conical cap worn in Canada for tobogganing and other
winter sports.
=Torpedo beard=—a la Captain Kettle.
=Torrington=—a name given to cotton gloves of a special quality adapted
to military or similar use.
=Tortoise shell=—the epidermal plates of the carapace of a testudinate
reptil—or—in English—the shell or house of a sea turtle.
=Totem=—a red-skin’s “coat of arms”, the device being painted on the
breast. Each tribe and family have different “bearings”, which serve as
a name or designation. Generally, totems are representations of animals.
=Toupee=—a little tuft, curl or artificial lock of hair; the top of a
periwig; a small wig covering a bald spot.
=Toupee paste=—a gummy substance for making toupees adhere to the scalp.
=Tourist cap=—a round crown cloth c. with a visor and a band that may be
turned down, covering the back of the head.
=Tourist coat=—a double-breasted ulster, usually of rough Scotch goods
with the regular notcht or peakt collar instead of the typical ulster
collar (qv); worn with or without a belt.
=Tourist coating=—general term for heavy Scotch and novelty overcoatings
suitable for ulsters, tourist coats, etc.
=Tourist collar bag=—a b. with flat round bottom and soft sides closed
at top by draw strings, intended to keep collars clean in suit case,
trunk, etc. Usually made of leather and variously trimmed.
=Tourist strap=—an adjustably buckled leather strap, having snap buckles
on the two ends; used for carrying small luggage.
=Tourist suit=—a name sometimes given to a s. of tweed or similar goods
having a Norfolk jacket instead of a sack coat.
=Tourniquet=—a bandage with a screw or lever attachment, which when
applied to a wounded limb stops the flow of blood by external pressure.
=Tow=—inferior flax.
=Tow cloth=—old-time linen homespun.
=Towel=—(1) a cloth, usually of linen, for drying the person after
washing; (2) when saturated with ice water a most effectiv headdress for
the morning after.
=Town made=—trade term for fabric gloves cut and sewed much after the
manner of leather gloves.
=Tracer=—see Tracing wheel.
=Tracing wheel=—a small revolving metal w. with sharp teeth and a
suitable handle, used for tracing paper patterns, for making two or more
sheets of pattern paper adhere while being cut simultaneously, etc.
=Trade journal=—a daily, weekly or monthly periodical that essays to
represent some particular trade or industry.
=Trading stamp=—“something for nothing”, but like all such promises
never yet demonstrated; also a joke vehicle for cheap vaudevillians.
=Tram=—woof silk of two or more threads of raw silk slightly twisted.
=Tramp=—a wandering journeyman tailor; a near-hobo.
=Traps=—traveling luggage; personal possessions; movable property.
=Traveling hat=—see Crusher.
=Travers=—French textil term indicating weftwise stripes or ribs.
=Treble-milled=—sheared and finisht three times.
=Trees=—wooden lasts, for shape-retaining purposes, for boots, shoes,
gloves, etc.
=Trews=—the ancient Celtic form of “trousers”.
=Tricot=—a closely woven, double-twilled woolen cloth, constructed of
two sets of warp threads (one of which is frequently cotton) and one of
weft, the weave characterized by faint lines or ribs running either
warpwise or weftwise, usually plain dyed.
=Tricot flannel=—a coarse-woven, elastic f.
=Tricot long=—t. in which the rib runs lengthwise. See T.
=Trig=—spruce; fine.
=Trigger finger=—the forefinger of the right hand.
=Trilby=—a soft felt hat with a plush-like surface resembling the
old-fashioned “beaver”; in shape a sort of Alpine, but varying with
different makers and with the touches given it by individual wearers.
(1908.)
=Trimmers=—in clothing manufacturing, the various workpeople who match
up fabrics with linings, sewing silk, buttons, etc.
=Trimming buttons=—any b. used decorativly; more specifically, small
flat covered b. of from 10 to 24 lines in size, tho satin and velvet b.
up to 36 lines are also so called; also round and fancy shapes are so
called, tho little used in men’s wear.
=Triplicate mirror=—a m. of three sections (usually framed), connected
together and adjustable so that one may see himself in several positions
simultaneously.
=Trooper’s uniform=—see the various descriptions of army uniforms, under
Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u., Fatigue u., etc.
=Tropical weight=—trade term for suitings averaging 9 to 11 ounces to
the yard. Compare Winter w., Spring w., Summer w., Fall w.
=Trousering=—any woolen or worsted fabric designed especially for
trousers, as fancy striped worsteds.
=Trousers=—bifurcated garments for the lower limbs; called “pants” by
“gents”; frequently assumed for the good of the service (?) by our
better halves. See Broad falls, Narrow falls, Evening dress t., Riding
t., Gaiter t., etc. Compare Breeches, Knickerbockers, Pantaloons, etc.
=Trousers=—see Dress t. (=army=); Dungaree t. (=navy=); Full dress t.
(=army, navy and marine corps=); Service t. (=army=); White t. (=army=);
Evening dress t. (=marine corps=); Undress t. (=marine corps=); Field t.
(=marine corps=); Special full dress t. (=marine corps=).
=Trousers stretcher=—a device for keeping t. in shape and wrinkleless by
means of tension—and there are many of such devices of varying shapes
and utility.
=Trousers stripes=—(=army=) for enlisted men: cavalry, yellow;
artillery, scarlet; infantry, white; engineers, scarlet, white piping;
ordnance, black, scarlet piping; post quartermaster sergeants, buff;
post commissary sergeants, cadet gray; hospital corps, maroon, white
piping; signal corps, orange, white piping; West Point service, buff.
All non-commissioned officers above rank of corporal wear stripes 1¼ in.
wide; corporals ½ in.; musicians and trumpeters 2 stripes each ½ in.
wide.
=Trowsers=—old spelling of trousers.
=Troy=—a town in New York where nearly all the collars, cuffs and shirts
of commerce are made.
=True lover’s knot=—a kind of double k. with two bows and two ends, as a
symbol of constancy or fidelity in love; a k. of ribbon given to be worn
in token of love and fidelity.
=Trunk=—an article of traveling luggage, of various shapes, sizes and
manufacture; and constituting the chief means of physical culture of
baggage smashers.
=Trunk breeches=—see T. hose.
=Trunk hose=—a kind of full breeches, extending to the middle of the
thighs, worn in 16th and 17th centuries; invented by James I to hide a
deformity of hip disease.
=Trunk strap=—an extra large, heavy, strong leather s. used when trunks
are frail or their locks unreliable.
=Trunks=—(1) an article of athletic apparel covering the loins and no
more, usually made of velvet and with an elastic waistband; (2) a jersey
for covering the body from the waist to the thighs, worn by swimmers,
athletes, etc. See Bathing t.
=Truss=—(1) a tight-fitting, padded jacket of 16th century; (2)
trousers; (3) drawers.
=Truss=—a metal or rubber spring or belt, with cushioned pad, bandages,
straps, etc., worn for preventing or reducing hernias.
=Try-on=—(n) an unfinisht garment ready for the tailor to fit to the
customer; (v) to shape, fit and adjust partly made garments to their
ultimate wearer.
=Tub=—trade term for washable.
=Tub washt=—term applied to wool fleece broken and washt, more or less,
by hand or machinery.
=Tubbing=—a salt water bath in the process of curing furs and leather.
=Tubular=—having the form of a tube, as shoelaces, braids, certain makes
of belts, etc.
=Tubular braid=—formed by uniting an even number of threads, half
running right to left, half left to right, crossing alternately over and
under the threads of the opposing group.
=Tuck=—a flat fold in a fabric; ask your wife to show you the difference
between a tuck and a plait.
=Tufftaffeta=—taffeta silk of the long ago (then much heavier than our
present-day taffeta) with velvet or plush tufts of nap or raised pile,
used for doublets and jerkins.
=Tump line=—the head-band of pack harness used by hunters, prospectors,
et al.
=Tunic=—a blouse gathered at the waist or allowed to hang free.
=Tunic=—(1) an undress military coat; (2) the tight-fitting jacket of
the British guardsmen.
=Tunic=—(1) a sort of shirt or blouse, reaching to the knees, with short
sleeves, usually fastened with a girdle, worn by the ancient Romans; (2)
the Greek chiton (qv).
=Tunicle=—a close-fitting vestment worn by sub-deacons, of the same
material as the chasuble, reaching to the sleeves and with tight
sleeves.
=Tunis hat=—a small cap once worn to distinguish a trade or profession.
=Turban=—(1) a plain cap without visor or brim; usually of velvet or
cloth; (2) an oriental head covering consisting of a sash, scarf or
shawl twisted about the tarboosh or cap; an innocent vanity of colonial
gentlemen, worn with banyan gown when the wig was removed at home, often
of velvet and other rich materials, high colored and fanciful.
=Turkish yarn=—y. made of the hair of the Angora goat; also called
camlet y.
=Turks’ satin=—see S. Turk.
=Turn-down collar=—see Prussian c.
=Turn list=—a l. kept in dull seasons, by some manufacturing concerns or
employers, of work to be done and of workpeople, so that the latter may,
each in his turn, be given his share of what work is on hand.
=Turn-over=—the turned-in extremity of trouser legs and sleeves. Compare
Turn-up.
=Turn-over collar=—same as Prussian c.
=Turn-up=—(1) the outwardly folded cuffs on the bottoms of trousers
legs; (2) the ordinary turned-under hem on ditto, which if folded up is
considered a sign of rain in London.
=Turncoat=—clothing terms are sometimes wofully prostituted.
=Turned sole=—a shoe without an inner s., the uppers of which are sewn
to a channel cut into the s. while turned inside out. When sewn, the
shoe is soaked in water until flexible and then turned right side out,
hence the name.
=Turner’s pants=—athletic trousers of light-weight flannel with foot
straps.
=Turniket=—see Tourniquet.
=Turnip=—slang for watch, especially the old-fashioned bulbous kind.
=Turnip pants=—trousers brought out during the late bicycle craze,
convertible from ordinary business trousers to cycling knickers and vice
versa. (Proprietary name.)
=Turtle neck=—term applied to knitted sweaters having an extra long
collar or n. which is turned down or folded over several times. Compare
V n.
=Tusseh silk=—a fine, brilliant s. fabric, very strong, woven from s.
obtained from the tusseh s. worm of India, bred on the jujube tree.
=Tuxedo=—see Dinner jacket.
=Tuxedo alpine=—a soft or a. hat for semi-formal dress wear, made of or
covered with silk.
=Tuxedo derby=—a d. hat for semi-formal dress wear, made of or covered
with silk.
=Tuxedo hat=—same as above. Also see Dress derby.
=Tweed=—general name for twill woven all-wool fabrics of soft open
texture, rather loose and coarse in appearance but of good weight,
having loom-made patterns in stripes, checks and plaids. Originally made
in Scotland, but now everywhere. See Waulking.
=Twentieth century cutting=—a style of diamond c. differing from
brilliant c. (qv) in not having a flat table or face, but with the crown
facets brought to a point for greater brilliancy.
=Twig=—a riding whip or crop.
=Twill=—any textil fabric in which the weft threads do not pass over and
under the warp in alternate succession, as in plain weaving, but
regularly in a varying arrangement as over one and under two, three,
four, etc. Technically known as two leaf, three leaf, four leaf t., etc.
See encyclopedia.
=Twilled=—woven in such manner as to produce lines or ribs diagonally or
across the surface of the fabric. See above.
=Twills=—old Scotch name for tweed.
=Twist=—English (trade) term for warp (qv).
=Twist=—see Buttonhole t.
=Twist stitch=—same as Cord s.
=Twist wig=—see Wig.
=Twisted=—tailoring term indicating that a coat sleeve, a trouser leg,
etc., is put in badly so as to shift sidewise out of line.
=Twisted=—same as damask or jowhir—read a technical work for description
of the process.
=Twists=—trade term for woolen and worsted fabrics woven of yarns that
are of two colors doubled and twisted together, giving a mottled
appearance to the pattern effect, as in Bannockburns, Drummond worsteds,
etc.
=Twitty=—mill term for uneven yarns.
=Two-hole=—trade term for buttons pierced with 2 holes or eyes.
=Two-piece vamp=—a v. composed of two pieces of upper leather.
=Two-year serge=—a specially good quality of serge featured by a large
tailoring firm in London, England, which guarantees it to give two
years’ wear, whence name.
=Tyrolean hat=—a sort of alpine or fedora h., soft felt, of a green
color, having the bow of the band behind and a feather flaunting
therein.
U
=Ulster=—a long, loose, heavy overcoat for rough or cold weather wear,
usually double-breasted.
=Ulster collar=—a very deep c. made with an extra upward cut or notch at
the apex of the notch at the step, the purpose being that the coat may
be buttoned close up to the throat while the c. may be lapt over itself
and stand straight upward from the throat point, which is not possible
with any other style of c.
=Ultra=—extreme; verging on vulgarity; dangerously near being
contemptuous.
=Umbrel=—vernacular for umbrella.
=Umbrella=—an article of luxury and convenience with a penchant for
changing owners.
=Umpire’s mask=—a face guard of wire and leather, worn as a protection
against thrown or batted balls and pop-bottles; usually lighter than a
catcher’s m.
=Unbasted=—trade term for the process of sewing garments together
without the parts being previously basted together, and for the garments
so made; likewise applied to the workpeople who sew in this manner.
=Unclad=—unclothed.
=Uncle=—a custodian of overcoats and jewelry—per consideration.
=Under lining=—the inside lining inside or “back” of a vest.
=Under-part=—tailoring term for the lower or under side of a pattern, as
the under part of a sleeve.
=Under weight=—not up to sample (as of woolen fabrics not as heavy as
claimed); less than contract requirements.
=Underbasting=—in clothes manufacture, the operation of basting facings
and linings to the foreparts of coats as received from the underpressers
and straighteners.
=Underclothing=—those most intimate.
=Undercoat=—a body c.; a suit c.
=Undercollar=—tailoring term for the underside of a coat collar,
usually, but not necessarily, made of a different and softer cloth (vide
infra).
=Undercollar cloth=—a thin, pliable plain woven c. with little or no
inclination to ravel; a variety of melton or ladies-c.; used for working
the underside of coat collars.
=Undergraduate’s gown=—a long, loose g. of black stuff, ordinarily with
pointed sleeves.
=Underpresser=—a workman who does underpressing (qv).
=Underpressing=—in clothing manufacture, the act of taking a partly made
garment (as a coat in which the outer seams have been closed, pockets
fitted, interlinings and padding put in place, etc.) and subjecting it
to ironing under heavy mechanical pressure. Compare First p. and After
p.
=Undershirt=—a garment worn next the hide.
=Underside=—see Under-part.
=Undertaker’s cloth=—see Casket c.
=Underwaist=—a boy’s undergarment with buttons for holding up drawers,
trousers, etc.
=Undress=—in livery, whipcord service garments.
=Undress=—(=navy=) the prescribed attire for all ordinary occasions.
Generally designated blue u. and white u. For chief petty officers,
except bandmasters, officers’ stewards and officers’ cooks: blue flannel
or serge coat, and trousers, blue cap, white shirt and collar or blue
flannel shirt (blue flannel or serge waistcoat permitted; also clothing
that has been long in use as dress may be worn for undress); (white u.:
same as for dress). For bandsmen: blue u. coat, blue cloth trousers,
blue u. cap; (white u.: white coat and trousers, cap with white cover).
For all other enlisted men: blue overshirt, blue cloth or flannel
trousers, blue cap, neckerchief, knife lanyard (seaman branch only);
(white u.: white u. jumper, white u. trousers, white hat, neckerchief,
knife lanyard (seaman branch only).
=Undress A=—(=navy=) the uniform to be worn when reporting for duty,
when serving on courts or boards and upon various occasions of ceremony.
Consists of—for all commissioned officers: frock coat, u. trousers
(white may be prescribed), blue cap (white cap or helmet if prescribed),
shoulder straps, sword and u. belt (except for chaplains), scarf, white
gloves; for midshipmen, warrant officers, mates and clerks, the same,
without shoulder straps.
=Undress B=—(=navy=) the same as “Undress A”, without sword or belt. To
be worn when calling on foreign officers other than commanding officers;
at informal day receptions; on the deck of a vessel going in or out of
port. (In hot weather white service dress may be ordered.)
=Undress belt=—(=navy=) for officers, a b. of plain black grain leather,
with mountings as per regulation.
=Undress breeches=—(=marine corps=) for officers, same as full dress b.
=Undress cap=—(=marine corps=) a c. similar to the full dress c., but ½
in. less in hight. For major general commandant: a 1½ in. band of
blue-black velvet; vertical 9 rows of 3 lines of ⅛ in. black silk
tubular braid from edge of band to top of c. in front, back and on each
side with a knot of 4 double loops of same braid on top of c.; a
chin-cord of gold wire attacht to marine corps buttons, the visor
ornamented with oak leaves embroidered in gold bullion, ornament of
corps device set in gold acorn leaves. For all other officers: the same
except that the band is of lustrous black mohair braid, the ornament to
be without the gold acorn leaves, and the visor unornamented. For
non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates: of dark
blue cloth, 3¼ in. high in front, 3 in. high behind, bell shaped crown,
1⅝ in. black patent leather visor dropt 60° from horizontal, enameled
leather chin strap; other details per specifications. For leader of the
band, same as prescribed for commissioned officers of the corps. For
second leader and musicians, same as prescribed for other enlisted men,
except that the c. is covered between welts with flat black mohair
braid. For drum-major, same as prescribed for other non-commissioned
officers. Summer u.: for leader of band, of white duck, same as
prescribed for commissioned officers; for second leader, drum-major and
musicians, same as prescribed for other enlisted men.
=Undress coat=—(=navy=) for bandsmen, a half-fitting single-breasted c.
of dark blue flannel with 7 gilt buttons, closing to the neck, standing
collar, the coat pipe-edged down the front, around the bottom, at base
of collar, shoulder straps, etc., with scarlet cloth; insignia as per
regulation. Same c. is worn by enlisted men in the marine corps.
=Undress coat=—(=marine corps=) for major general commandant and all
officers: a sack c. of dark blue cloth, single-breasted, cut half close,
the side seams vented, standing collar (of dark blue velvet for major
general commandant), trimmed across breast with black mohair tubular
braid, black frogs and black stuft crochet buttons; trimmings, devices,
etc., as per regulations. Also a white c. of drill or duck,
single-breasted sack style, cut semi-fitting, with four outside patch
pockets, trimmed per regulations. For non-commissioned officers,
drummers, trumpeters and privates, a single-breasted sack c. of dark
blue flannel, cut half close without center seam in back, in length
reaching to the crotch, fastened with 7 marine corps buttons, standing
collar; the c. pipt down front, around the bottom, base of collar,
shoulder and sleeve straps with scarlet flannel, with other details as
prescribed. For summer u., a single-breasted sack c. of white linen of
same pattern and style as prescribed for field c. (qv), with brass
buttons. For leader of band, of dark blue cloth, cut and trimming the
same as prescribed for first lieutenant. For second leader of band, the
same as prescribed for enlisted men of the line, with exceptions in
trimming, etc. For musicians, same as prescribed for enlisted men of the
line. For drum-major, same as prescribed for other enlisted men. Summer
undress c. for leader, same as prescribed for commissioned officers of
marine corps; for second leader, drum-major and musicians, same as
prescribed for other enlisted men of the corps.
=Undress jumper=—(=navy=) same as dress j. (qv) but made entirely of
white, unbleacht drill, and with sleeves without fitting cuffs; worn as
prescribed for dress.
=Undress sword belt=—(=marine corps=) for all officers and leader of the
band “of fair leather, not stuft russet”, 1¾ inches wide, with
detachable slings to match, trimmings of dull bronze metal.
=Undress trousers=—(=navy=) of dark blue cloth or serge, with plain
seams.
=Undress trousers=—(=marine corps=) for major general commandant and all
other officers, blue and white, as prescribed for full dress. For
non-commissioned officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates, the same
as prescribed for full dress. For summer u., of white linen, as
furnished by Quartermaster’s department. For leader of the band, same as
prescribed for full dress for officers of the line. For second leader
and drum-major, same as prescribed for non-commissioned officers. For
musicians, same as full dress except a single ³⁄₁₆ inch welt of scarlet
cloth on outer seams. Summer u., for leader and all other members of
band, white linen as furnished by Quartermaster’s department.
=Undress uniform=—(=marine corps=) by officers: to be habitually worn on
duty, unless other u. is prescribed, when reporting for duty on or
appearing before courts or boards, and when calling upon officials of
our own or of a foreign service, or when associated with officers of the
navy who are in u. A or B or service dress; by enlisted men: habitually
on or off duty when other u. is not prescribed; by members of the band:
likewise. Consists of, for all officers: u. coat (blue or white), blue
or white u. cap (or white helmet), full dress or white trousers, sword
with white slings (or of leather if worn over blue coat), and u. sword
knot, white gloves, white standing collar (with blue coat), black shoes;
when mounted: dark blue riding breeches, drab leather gloves, black
boots with spurs; at drills and exercises, on marches and in the field,
white gloves may be dispensed with by order of commanding officer and
russet leather leggings or puttees may be ordered. For all enlisted men
(including non-commissioned officers, drummers and trumpeters): u. coat
(blue or white), blue cap or white helmet, blue or white trousers, white
gloves, black leather shoes (russet with white trousers if prescribed),
white cap cover over blue cap if prescribed, arms and accouterments as
ordered. Bandsmen (including leader and drum-major), u. coat (blue or
white), blue or white trousers, blue cap or white helmet, sword with u.
belt and knot (leader only), white gloves, black leather shoes (russet
with white trousers if prescribed), white cap cover over blue cap if
prescribed, accouterments as ordered.
=Undress waistcoat=—(=navy=) a single-breasted, high buttoning w. of
dark blue cloth or serge or of white linen duck or similar material,
without collar, closing with 6 small navy buttons. For chaplains the
same, but with plain black or white buttons.
=Undrest kid=—see Suede. (=Undressed.=)
=Unfinisht=—trade term for fabrics that are not sheared or milled and
have a slight nap or roughness. (=Unfinished.=)
=Unfinisht serge=—s. that has not been sheared, closely resembling u.
worsted.
=Unfinisht worsted=—a soft, dull finisht, twilled cloth, woven similarly
to serge, sparingly sheared so as to leave a soft nap.
=Uniform=—livery distinguishing the members of military, naval or civil
bodies or societies and employes of clubs, corporations, etc. Compare
Livery.
=Uniform A=—(=army=) full dress; (=navy=) special full dress; (=marine
corps=) special full dress; worn whenever on occasions of ceremony
officers of both services are required to appear together in uniform, at
the White House, etc.
=Uniform B=—(=army=) dress; (=navy=) service dress; (=marine corps=)
undress; worn as stated above in Uniform A and as otherwise prescribed.
=Uniform buttons=—all metal or other b. for police, fire, military,
conductors, society or other uniforms, stamped with insignia, monograms,
etc.
=Uniform bag=—a b. of canvas, leather, or both, for carrying baseball or
other uniforms; usually constructed on the roll-up pattern.
=Uniform C=—(=army=) full dress or evening u.; (=navy=) evening dress A;
(=marine corps=) special full dress; worn as prescribed on occasions as
stated above in Uniform A.
=Uniform C=—(=navy=) the same as evening dress A but with white
waistcoat in place of blue; prescribed at discretion of senior officer.
=Uniform cloth=—(1) a stout, well fulled, woolen c., similar to kersey,
commonly dyed in navy blue and shades of gray, etc., used for police,
mail and railroad u.; (2) any c. suitable for uniforms.
=Uniform roll=—a blanket-like sort of carry-all of waterproof canvas,
with pockets, straps and handle, largely used by army, marine corps,
baseball players, etc.
=Uniform tailor=—one who makes a specialty and whose business consists
largely if not entirely of the making of army, navy, band, police, fire
and other uniforms and livery.
=Union cassimere=—a men’s wear fabric woven with a cotton warp and a
woolen or shoddy weft, of a quality with satinet (qv) but with a woven
instead of a printed pattern. See Cassimere.
=Union goods=—trade term for fabrics woven of different yarns. See U.
cassimere, U. linen, etc.
=Union label=—neither a little thing to look for nor a great thing to
find.
=Union labor=—unobjectionable if “kept in its place”, but nevertheless
the only means of bringing many an arrogant, arbitrary, slave-driving
employer to his senses.
=Union linen=—a fabric of cotton warp and linen weft.
=Union made=—not made by free workmen.
=Union silk=—fabrics of s.-and-linen, s.-and-lisle, s.-and-wool, used
largely for umbrellas.
=Union suit=—an undergarment combining in one piece drawers and shirt.
=Union tannage=—a combination of the oak and hemlock bark processes.
=Unmerchantable=—term applied to wool partially washt on the sheep’s
back but not sufficiently to be clast as “washt” (qv).
=Unpluckt=—furs with the long, stiff hairs not removed, as natural seal.
=Unpluckt seal=—wool or fur s. with the long guard hairs left in. Same
term applies to other furs, as otter, etc.
=Unspottable=—trade term for broadcloths and other fabrics finisht by a
waterproofing process so that rain will not leave spots or soil marks.
=Untwisting test=—(cotton vs. linen) cotton threads when untwisted
disclose a number of entangled fibers, while in linen yarn treated the
same way the fibers are much nearer parallel.
=Unwasht=—same as “in the grease”.
=Up-and-down stitch=—in tailoring, any s. that is pulled thru before the
next one is taken. A prick s. or side s. may be an up-and-down s. and
the button s. is decidedly one.
=Up-to-date=—the man who has bought this book.
=Upland=—cotton grown in the inland districts of the Southern States.
=Upper=—that part of a shoe covering the foot proper.
=Upper Benjamin=—a livery coat with a series of shoulder capes; usually
of waterproof box cloth.
=Upper ten=—rather more exclusiv than “the 400”.
=Uppers= (=to walk on one’s=)—poor; shabby.
=Urinal bag=—a long, light, rubber b. with straps for attaching to leg
and waist; worn by persons afflicted with bladder weakness.
=Usher=—polite name for floorwalker.
=Utica=—a popular brand of shirting muslin.
V
=V=—in tailoring, etc., a triangular dart cut into some part of a
garment, as at the waist, for the purpose of giving shape.
=V neck=—term applied to sweaters having no collar or n., but instead a
slit or V-shape opening in front. Compare Turtle n.
=Vaccination shield=—a metal or papier mache s. attacht by straps, worn
over the point of v. and beneath the underclothing; a device intended to
prevent the wasteful and expletiv saying of “ouch”!
=Valencia=—a stout, striped or figured vesting material, of silk or
cotton warp with worsted weft, chiefly used for livery waistcoats.
=Valentian=—see Valencia.
=Valet=—the gentleman who reads master’s letters, wears his clothes and
at times helps him dress.
=Valet’s brush=—a long, narrow, straightback b. with graduated bristles.
=Valet’s livery=—none at all; the valet dresses quietly like most
people.
=Valeting companies=—institutions that “take care” of your wardrobe for
a monthly consideration.
=Vamp=—the forepart of shoe-uppers. See Quarters.
=Vampay=—a short woolen hose or stocking reaching only to the ankles,
probably the forerunner of our modern footless bicycle stocking.
=Vamping=—the process of stitching a vamp or upper to a top.
=Vandyke=—a short, close-trimmed, sharp-pointed beard.
=Vandyke flap=—in tailoring a doubly roached f.; having an edge of two
concave curves, joined, resulting in points at the ends and in the
center.
=Vanity=—pride: shallow, conceited and obtrusiv.
=Varnish=—shoe polish.
=’Varsity=—general term for clothes made with some eccentricity favored
by college boys.
=Veal calf=—a variety of shoe leather: a skin coming from a large-sized
or partly grown calf, or from a younger animal than a skin called Runner
(qv).
=Vegetable flannel=—a coarse, heavy fabric woven of the “wool” obtained
from pine needles. See Pine wool.
=Vegetable haircloth=—see Imitation h.
=Vegetable ivory=—the fruit or nuts of a tropical palm (phytelephas
macrocarpa) found principally upon the banks of the Esmeralda river in
South America. While growing the nuts are soft and creamy but soon
harden, acquiring a texture not unlike animal ivory and are used, almost
entirely, for making buttons. See I. nut.
=Vegetable wool=—a peculiar variety of cotton grown in Peru, rough,
crinkly, strong and closely resembling animal w.
=Veldt coat=—similar to the Norfolk or shooting jacket; made very easy
in fit, permitting exceptional liberty of action in hunting, golf, etc.,
usually worn without waistcoat.
=Vellum=—in military parlance a v. is a measurement of width of gold
braid.
=Velour=—(1) a soft napt, close-bodied woolen cloth for men’s wear; (2)
any fabric of or resembling velvet.
=Velour=—a velvet or silk pad for smoothing a silk hat. See Leur.
=Velour=—a coined or trade name used to designate a peculiar high glaze
or finish given to certain kinds of upper leathers.
=Velutine=—a kind of corded merino.
=Velvet=—a silk fabric with a closely woven back and on the face side a
thick, short, smooth nap or cut pile; usually woven double and split
apart by knives; made with both silk and cotton backs and so
denominated. In its various forms and qualities used for coat collars,
waistcoats, livery, smoking jackets, etc.
=Velvet collar=—a c. made of v. instead of same goods as body of
garment; practically confined to overcoats. See also Inlaid c. and
Laid-on c.
=Velvet finish=—a form of f. given to overcoatings and similar cloths
having a heavy nap—in some of which it is left curly, while on others it
is left standing out. Compare Bareface f., Scotch f., Dress faced.
=Velveteen=—a silk and cotton or all-cotton velvet.
=Venetian=—a stout, closely woven, fine worsted cloth having a roundish,
upright twill, commonly dyed in plain colors, moderately fulled, milled
and cropt bare in finishing and given a high luster.
=Venetian=—a twilled lining material of cotton warp and worsted weft,
also known as Italian cloth. Compare Farmer’s satin.
=Venetians=—a sort of knee breeches, reaching to just below the knee,
said to have originated in Venice; same as galligaskins.
=Vent=—in tailoring (1) an opening; usually the lower parts of seams,
for varying distances, according to style or taste, not closed but left
open and lapt over or finisht to meet; (2) an outlet (qv).
=Ventilated shoe=—a s. having a more or less ornamental series of
perforations or cut-out designs in the uppers, in appearance resembling
a compromise between shoe and sandal.
=Verger’s gown=—a plain g. of black stuff, with velvet collar, and with
short, open-slasht sleeves.
=Vertical pocket=—a slasht or welted perpendicular p., opening thru the
lining or not. See Raincoat p.
=Vest=—see Waistcoat.
=Vest corner stiffener=—a device made of flexible copper wire, designed
to be inserted between the material at the cutaway or lower corners of a
waistcoat, with the intention of keeping the same from curling up. Not
needed with a well-made waistcoat—and perhaps not likely to spoil a
cheap one.
=Vest maker=—a journeyman tailor who makes waistcoats his specialty.
=Vest sweater=—a sleeveless, collarless s., open in front and closed
with buttons.
=Vestee=—see Vestlet.
=Vestlet=—a shaped strip of white linen or other material pinned or
otherwise fastened around the neck of a waistcoat, inside, so that a
mere edging of white will show.
=Vestment=—loosely, any ecclesiastical garment.
=Vestwo=—proprietary name for a reversible vest or waistcoat made not
with an inner lining, as is usual, but of two different fabrics, so that
either side may be worn outward.
=Vici kid=—a trade mark name used to designate a particular method of
tanning or finishing goat skins; also the shoe leather as produced.
=Vicuna=—(1) the wool of a South American animal of the camel tribe,
distinguisht for exceeding softness and lightness—but because of its
scarcity fine merino wool is largely substituted and so called; (2)
heavily napt suiting and overcoating cloths of fine, soft, silky
texture, usually twill woven, and plain dyed or in Oxford mixtures.
=Viscolized=—a coined trade mark word used to designate a particular
oily waterproofing process used for finishing or preserving both sole
and upper leathers, used for hunting, fishing and tramping boots. See
Stuft leather.
=Viscolized calf=—see foregoing.
=Visor=—see Vizor.
=Viyella=—proprietary name for a sort of fine flannel.
=Visiting case=—(1) a variety of suit c.; (2) one of many names for suit
cases.
=Vizor=—(1) a projecting piece on a cap, forming a shield for the eyes;
(2) the frontpiece of a helmet with openings for seeing and breathing;
(3) a mask.
=Vladimir=—a velour-finisht cassimere, made of fine Australian wool,
giving a peculiar soft “handle”.
=Vulgar=—not in good taste, as loud colors, readymade scarves, collar
springs, dissonant shoe laces, redundant jewelry, inappropriate articles
of attire at dress functions.
=Vulgarian=—sartorially, a horrible example, and the chief patron of the
cheap tailor and flash readymader; if of the new rich, a shining mark
for the gaudy “swell” haberdasher and conscienceless tailor.
W
=Wadding=—the tailor’s expedient for making a lanky, gawky customer look
well in the eyes of his best girl and fellow creatures; specifically
thin sheets or layers of carded cotton or batting, usually of a dull
slate color, the outsides of which are glazed for strength (such as it
is). Compare Padding.
=Waders=—rubber hunting boots reaching to the thighs or waist.
=Wading boots=—see Waders.
=Wading pants=—rubber coverings for the legs and lower part of the body,
made with rubber stocking feet or with boot soles.
=Wading shoe=—a leather or leather-and-canvas laced s., opening down to
the toe, with a sewed on sole studded with hobnails.
=Wading stocking=—long hose of rubber, with soft rubber feet, attacht by
a strap to the waist belt.
=Wadmoll=—a very coarse, felted woolen stuff (obsolete).
=Waist=—that part of the body between the chest and the hips lying
beneath the ribs or thorax and above the haunchbones; the narrow part of
the trunk. The “fashionable waist” of tailors is sometimes above and
sometimes below the natural w.
=Waist=—see Shirt-w.; also Under-w.
=Waist-band=—(1) the upper part of trousers and drawers; (2) a sash.
=Waistcloth=—a strip of cotton or linen c. worn around the waist and
hanging below it or passed between the thighs, worn by the unregenerate
heathen.
=Waistcoat=—a short, sleeveless body garment worn between the coat and
the shirt, the foreparts of which are made of cloth to match the suit or
of fancy material, the backs being of a silk or mohair or cotton lining
material on the outside, with a thinner fancy or plain silk or cotton
lining on the inside; usually 4 welted pockets outside and one in the
inside lining; vulgarly a “vest”.
=Waistcoating=—the proper name, but see Vesting.
=Waisted=—shaped with or having a waist.
=Waiter’s jacket=—a sort of tuxedo coat, cut off short at the waist,
similar to a military mess j.
=Waiter’s livery=—same as Footman’s dress l.
=Waiter’s shoes=—easy s. of soft leather, with light turned soles and
low heels.
=Wald wolle=—forest wool (qv).
=Wale=—a ridge, rib or flattish streak appearing above the groundwork of
a woven fabric, usually a result of twilling.
=Walking coat=—resembling a cutaway frock c., but a trifle shorter and
usually with pocket flaps on hips, and more frequently made of fancy
suitings. Also called English walking c. and morning frock.
=Walking frock=—same.
=Walking gloves=—g. of heavy leather. Compare Dress g.
=Walking stick=—a cane—supposed to complete a man’s street equipment.
=Wall trunk=—a t. so hinged that the top and back form a straight,
vertical line when opened and permit setting close to wall.
=Wallaby=—a sort of small kangaroo; hide used in fancy “leather goods”.
=Wallet=—a leather pocketbook for carrying bank notes lengthwise, also
other incunabulae such as bills, billet-deux, billets d’amour, etc.
=Wambais=—a name once given to some sort of garment quilted with wool
flax or tow.
=Wammus=—a sort of heavy, loose knitted, cardigan jacket, usually
belted; a mosey; also spelt wamus and warmus.
=Wampen system=—an “anthropometrical system” which, like all other
tailoring systems, is of alleged perfection; invented by a German
scientist of that name.
=Wampum=—Indian bead work used variously for necklaces, bracelets,
belts, etc., and among the early colonists as money.
=Wamsutta=—a brand of heavy muslin extensivly used for shirts.
=Wangan=—hunters’ term for clothing, cooking utensils, articles of
personal comfort and other incommodia taken on a camping-out hunting
trip.
=Wangan bag=—a waterproof canvas b., about the size of a meal b., for
transporting hunters’ suplies (see Wangan) from camp to camp.
=War paint=—(1) an Indian’s gala decoration; (2) cant for one’s best
clothes when donned for purposes of conquest.
=Wardrobe=—(1) one’s collection of garments; (2) a clothes-closet.
=Wardrobe trunk=—a t., variously constructed, but usually intended to
stand apparently on end, opening up so that garments are properly held
on hangers and kept in place with straps to prevent bunching; also often
with a series of drawers or partitions for smaller articles of apparel.
=Warmus=—see Wammus.
=Warp=—the threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom and crossed
by the filling or weft; sometimes called chain or end.
=Warp=—in mill parlance “a warp” is the quantity of chain required to
fully equip a loom, about 400 yards or enough for eight 50-yard pieces
of a pattern, which is the least a mill usually will start to weave,
altho occasionally “half a w.” will be put on. Hence, if a buyer order
one piece of a certain pattern and no one else should order of that
particular style, the solitary buyer would not be likely to get his
goods, the alleged reason usually being that of delay.
=Warp beam=—the roller or b. in a loom on which the w. is wound.
=Warp dresser=—a machine for sizing yarns before placing them in the
loom.
=Warp mill=—a machine for arranging the threads for laying the w. in a
loom.
=Warp-printed=—trade term for fabrics (usually silks) wherein the
pattern or design is p. on the warp threads before weaving, the filling
being of plain color or neutral shades.
=Warp wing=—a proprietary term distinguishing a certain make of shirt
collars, the wings or points of which are inserted the way of the w., it
being claimed that w. threads are stronger than weft threads, and hence
such collars are more likely to stand the wear and tear of laundering
longer than collars made in the usual way.
=Warping=—the process of making warp.
=Wash cloth=—a small, square of terry or other material, for toilet
purposes.
=Wash clothes=—(nautical) garments that have been washt and hung on the
line to dry.
=Wash goods=—trade term for fabrics, manufactured articles of apparel,
etc., designed to be washt or laundered.
=Wash suit=—trade term for garments made of washable materials,
particularly for boys and children’s wear.
=Washable=—(1) that may be washt or laundered without injury to color,
texture or finish; (2) goods without special Glaze or Finish.
=Washed=—see Washt.
=Washer=—one of the old names for kersey.
=Washerlady=—a person who helps others keep up a good appearance,
sometimes at her own expense; as bad a bill-collector as the tailor, and
an individual who knows more secrets than she gets paid for keeping.
=Washerwoman=—many prefer the title “washerlady” (qv).
=Washing=—see Scouring.
=Washing mitten=—see Bath m.
=Washington navy serge=—a fine grade, wool-dyed worsted s. of
exceptional tensil strength and wearing qualities, of a permanent rich
indigo color, adopted by the U. S. Government as the standard for naval
officer’s uniforms. Made by the Washington mills, one of the largest
plants in America, if not in the world.
=Washt=—jewelry trade term for very cheap jewelry of base metal with a
light electroplating of gold. (=Washed.=)
=Washt=—term for fleece washt on the sheep before clipping by means of
cold water. Compare Scoured, Tub washt and Unmerchantable. (=Washed.=)
=Watch=—(1) a pocket timepiece; (2) a means of occasional emergent
restoration of finances.
=Watch Albert=—a guard, usually of leather and metal, worn attacht to
the lapel buttonhole, the w. being carried in the outside breast pocket
of coat.
=Watch cap=—a knitted c. of navy-blue worsted, conical in shape, worn by
enlisted men in the navy on working duty.
=Watch coat=—general name for overcoats worn by sailors on w. in cold
weather, at night, etc.
=Watch-guard=—a chain, cord or ribbon attacht to a w. at one end and to
the person at the other.
=Watch pocket=—(1) a small p. inserted in the waistband of trousers;
also called fob p.; (2) the lower left-hand p. of a waistcoat.
=Watch wristlet=—a leather w. with a small watch embedded therein, worn
by chappies at pretty outdoor games and by some motormen on street cars.
=Water bag=—a b. made of linen duck for carrying drinking water while
hunting, exudation and evaporation cooling the contents.
=Water stiff=—trade term for felt hats of the cheaper grades, stiffened
by a w. process. See Wine s.
=Watered=—see Moire.
=Waterfall=—a sort of puff scarf, not crost in front; a once-over.
=Watermarks=—spots or discolorations on goods (as woolen cloths, etc.),
happening during process of sponging.
=Waterproof=—general name for any textil fabric so treated, by rubber or
chemicals or otherwise, that it repels instead of absorbing water. See
Cravenette.
=Waterproofing=—the method or process of rendering fabrics impervious to
water, for which there are many formulae, each “the best”. See an
encyclopedia.
=Water wings=—pneumatic aids for swimming learners.
=Wattle weave=—a style of straw hat not easy to describe unless you know
what wattle is.
=Waukenphast=—a sort of orthopedic shoe.
=Waulking=—a finishing process in the manufacture of Harris tweeds and
other homespun woolens of British crofting localities: the cloth after
weaving being laid out on long tables or boards, soap and water
liberally poured on and the cloth vigorously pommeled by hand until
sufficiently fulled or thickened, after which it is washt in clear,
cold, running water, and is then ready for the market.
=Wax=—general term for various waxes used in the trades, as beesw.,
shoemaker’s w., etc.
=Wax calf=—calfskin tanned and finisht for upper leather, on the flesh
side.
=Wax cloth=—trade term for waterproof fabrics treated by a paraffin
process.
=Wax-end=—in shoemaking, a stout thread or its end, made stiff and
pointed with wax or waxed and twisted with a bristle.
=Wearables=—clothes; wearing apparel.
=Weather test=—see Exposure t.
=Weatherproof=—rainproof.
=Weaving=—the mechanical process of manufacturing textil fabrics from
yarns or threads. Very interesting and important but too complicated for
the limited scope of this concise book—consult some good encyclopedia or
work on textil processes and then get permission to go thru a mill.
=Web thumb=—trade term for a flexible connecting piece between t. and
forefinger of baseball gloves. See Fielder’s glove.
=Wedding outfit=—a collection of sartorial elegance that one expends
much pains to acquire and later wonders why he did it.
=Wedding ring=—equivalent to the “sold” tickets placed on furniture in
the shops; custom permits men to wear them as well as women—but few are
brave enough.
=Wedge heels=—see Spring h.
=Weeds=—mourning.
=Weft=—the woof or filling of a fabric; the threads that cross the warp
from selvage to selvage.
=Weichsel=—aromatic cherry wood, used for canes, umbrella handles, cigar
holders, etc.
=Weight=—in piece goods the number of ounces a yard of material weighs.
See Winter w., Spring w., Summer w., Tropical w., Fall w.
=Weighted silk=—s. that in dyeing has been so weighted or loaded with
superfluous heavy chemicals, gums, etc., as to weigh considerably more
than before dyeing. Compare Pure dye. See Weighting.
=Weighted silk test=—apply lighted match and if flame continues a few
seconds after removal of match, silk is w.
=Weighting=—in silk dyeing the process of surcharging the yarn or fabric
with gums, mineral matter, etc., for the purpose of making the goods
seem stout and heavy; also called loading.
=Welfare work=—name felicitously applied to polite intermeddling in
employes’ affairs by large corporations; a sort of paternalism that
stimulates an artificial interest in the business and a covert study of
how to break the golden rule; a variant of the living-in system of
English shop assistants; also a variant of our modern slum settlement
work.
=Well-brusht=—clean, neat, presentable. (=W.-brushed.=)
=Wellington boot=—a tight-fitting b. of fine leather, the tops usually
of morocco, hugging the calf closely and coming to a point in front and
there finisht with a small colored silk tassel; a style of the early
part of the last century.
=Wellington cloak=—a military style of cape, such as is latterly worn by
mounted policemen.
=Wellington frock=—the single-breasted f. coat of 1818; perhaps the
first of modern coats cut with a waist seam.
=Wellington hat=—a U. S. military h. of early in the 19th century, long,
narrow, high, with a small tassel or roset on the two extreme points of
the turned-up brim.
=Wellington trousers=—see Pantaloon t.
=Wellingtons=—see above.
=Welt=—in tailoring (1) a strip of material seamed to a pocket opening
as a finishing as well as strengthening device; (2) a raised or swelled
lap seam; (3) a covered cord or ornamental strip sewed on a border or
along a seam. In knitting (1) a flap knitted separately and then joined
to the main fabric by looping or hand knitting, as the heel piece of a
stocking; (2) a ribbed piece forming the finishing end, as of a sleeve
or sock, to prevent rolling. In glove making (1) a piece fastened on the
edge of a seam; (2) a sewed on hem-finish at the wrist of a glove. In
shoemaking a strip of leather set into the seam between the edges of the
upper and outer sole, thru which they are sewed together. See Goodyear
w., McKay sewed, W. sole, etc.
=Welt cutter=—a machine for notching welts for boots and shoes to make
them lie smoothly in position.
=Welt leather=—any l. fit for making shoe welts; usually the shoulder
ends of hides.
=Welt machine=—a m. for cutting leather into strips to be used as shoe
welts.
=Welt seam=—in tailoring a lapt s. with the top edge turned under thus
raising or swelling it; a raised or swelled s.
=Welt seam=—(glove term) an inseam (qv) with a strip of leather between
the join acting as a protector to the stitches, used only on working
gloves of very stout leathers.
=Welt sole=—(1) a name used for designating a particular method of
attaching the outer s. to a shoe; that is, the s. is stitcht to a w. and
the w. to the inner sole and upper; (2) a shoe made by the w. process.
There are various methods of using a w.; Goodyear w. being the best
known; Mock w. being an imitation of the Goodyear process; McKay w.
being a process where the McKay method of attaching the outer s. is used
in connection with a w. in imitation of the Goodyear process.
=Welted pocket=—a p. without a covering flap finisht with a sewed-on
strip or welt and stitcht to match the edges and seams.
=Welting=—the process in modern shoe making following that of
lasting—the surplus leather being trimmed off, the shank tackt in place,
the bottom filled with cork (if at all) and the sole put on. See Welt
sole.
=West-of-England=—trade term for extra fine dress worsteds, broadcloths,
etc.; properly from woolen manufacturing towns in the west of England.
(Bradford, Huddersfield, Leeds, etc.)
=West Point overcoat=—one of the many names applied to an ulster-like
coat brought out during the winter of 1907–08—both single and
double-breasted, buttoning to the throat, with a high Prussian collar.
=West Point uniform=—see Cadet u.
=Western Union messenger’s uniform=—see Telegraph m. u.
=Wether wool=—all clippings subsequent to the first clip from the young
sheep. See Lamb’s w.
=Weybosset=—one of the oldest American woolen mills, at one time famous
for its original patterns in cloths, which were in great demand and
widely copied.
=Whale fin=—one of the trade names for whalebone.
=Whalebone=—a horny substance from the throat of the whale, used as
stiffening in corsets, etc.
=Whangee=—any of several varieties of bamboo (Chinese and Japanese) used
for walking sticks.
=What-d’ye-call-’ems=—colloquial for drawers, breeches, and the like.
=Wheel piece=—an extra p. patcht on to the plait-side of the skirt of a
frock coat, necessitated by inability to cut the pattern whole from
narrow width goods, the seam being concealed in the folds or plaits;
once a common expedient, but now with double-width goods seldom, if
ever, necessary.
=Wheeling=—a process for indenting a fancy figuring or line around the
heel of a shoe or for indenting a conventional figure or line on the
bottom of a shoe as one of the finishing processes. See Heel seat w.
=Wherewithal=—vernacular for the means of purchasing, etc.; money.
=Whipcord=—a worsted fabric with rounded cords or ribs extending
diagonally across the surface; usually dyed in plain colors or woven in
mixtures of oxford, tan with white, etc.
=Whipping the cat=—up to about 50 years ago or thereabout it was the
practise of country tailors to go about from house to house and from
town to town and cut and make on the premises such clothing as the
household needed, usually from the homespun cloth made by the
housewives. This was called “whipping the cat”.
=Whipstitch=—to sew the edge of a fabric or a seam with long, wrapping
stitches; to overcast.
=Whisk=—small, short-handled clothes-broom.
=White cap=—(=army=) for officers, of white linen or white duck,
conforming to the pattern of the service c., with a band of white braid,
and with visor, strap, buttons as prescribed for dress c.; no badge; for
enlisted men, same as for officers, omitting the white braid; (=marine
corps=) for all officers, of white duck, of same pattern as undress c.,
trimmed with white braid, the base of the c. to a depth of one-quarter
inch all around to be of dark blue cloth.
=White coat=—(=army=) for all officers, a c. of white linen duck or
other material, cut and made after the same (general) pattern as the
(blue) dress c. (qv), the braid trimming being also white; for enlisted
men, a single-breasted sack c. of bleacht cotton duck, of regulation
pattern, with collar ornaments as for dress c.
=White dress coat=—(=navy=) for chief petty officers, except bandmaster,
and for officer’s stewards and officer’s cooks: of bleacht cotton drill
of pattern prescribed for blue coats of the several ratings, unlined,
with patch pockets without flaps; for bandsmen, the same as for enlisted
men of the marine corps.
=White evening dress coat=—(=navy=) see Evening d. c.
=White gold=—an alloy of 5 parts of silver to one of gold.
=White goods=—general trade term embracing all white cotton and linen
fabrics; also staple articles of apparel in white.
=White helmet=—(=marine corps=)—for all officers, non-commissioned
officers, drummers, trumpeters and privates, same as standard sample in
quartermaster’s office; with special full dress and full dress, the
spike and spike base will be worn; with undress or field uniforms the
ventilator top only. No corps device.
=White lapel=—nickname for a lieutenant in the English navy, alluding to
the w. lapels formerly worn on the coat.
=White rose=—a perfume sufficiently explained by its name.
=White service coat=—(=navy=) for officers, similar in cut and fit to
the blue s. c., of white linen duck, bleacht cotton twill, or other
suitable material, without braid trimming, and buttoning thru with 5
large, gilt navy buttons (except for chaplains, which are white), and
having on each breast a buttoned patch pocket; appropriate shoulder
marks per rank.
=White service dress=—(=navy=) a uniform to be worn at all times not
otherwise provided for, and instead of other uniform in hot weather, on
occasions of ceremony, when offense would not thereby be given, if
prescribed by the senior officer present. Consists of, for all
commissioned officers and midshipmen, w. s. coat, w. trousers, w. cap
(or helmet), shoulder marks; for warrant officers, mates and clerks, the
same without shoulder marks.
=White trousers=—(=army=) for officers, of same material as coat,
without stripe, welt or cord; for enlisted men: of bleacht cotton duck
without stripes.
=White undress coat=—(=marine corps=) see Undress c.
=White uniform=—(=army=) worn by all officers, dismounted, when
authorized by the commanding officer, but not on occasions of duty with
troops; consists of w. coat, w. trousers, w. cap, w. canvas or black
leather shoes; for enlisted men, dismounted, worn when prescribed by
commanding officer for off-duty wear, but not on dress occasions: w.
coat, w. trousers, w. cap, w. canvas or black leather shoes.
=White wax=—bleacht beeswax.
=White working dress=—(=navy=) see Working d.
=Whitecaps=—a sort of vigilance committee, robed in white with white
caps on their nocturnal morality raids.
=Whitewings=—a piccadilly shirt collar. See Wing collar.
=Whitewings=—a name given to the white uniformed street cleaners
organized in New York by Col. Waring and now copied by many large
cities.
=Whiting=—British for bleaching.
=Whitney=—(1) a heavy, coarse, sturdy woolen stuff of 18th century, used
for coats, breeches, etc.; (2) a soft bodied overcoat cloth, resembling
chinchilla but with the face tufted in transverse ridges.
=Whitney long=—same as Whitney (2) but with the face tufting running
longitudinally instead of transversely.
=Whole back=—tailoring term indicating (1) a coat made with a b. in one
piece, without seams, (2) the backpart of a frock coat cut in one piece
(without a center seam and not stubbed or cut across), the skirts of
which may be open or closed. Compare Frock b., Stubbed b., Step b.,
False b. Skirt.
=Whole falls=—see Broad f.
=Whole-sole=—to put entire new (lower) soles to a worn shoe, boot, etc.
=Whole vamp=—see Long v.
=Wholesale=—selling in quantity, to retailers; jobbing.
=Whytlaw=—general trade term for fine shirting ginghams, madrasses,
etc., manufactured by R. A. Whytlaw, Son & Co., Glasgow, Scotland.
=Wide-awake=—a soft, broad-brimmed, felt hat.
=Wide wale=—general name for flat-twilled close finisht worsted suitings
with warpwise or diagonal wales or flat ribs, often quite wide. Compare
Narrow w.
=Widower’s weeds=—equivocal manifestations of uxorial grief.
=Wig=—an arrangement of false hair for concealing baldness or for the
supposed adornment of the head; origin lost in antiquity. From the time
of Louis XIII until nearly the close of the 18th century gentlemen could
not or would not appear without one. In those days wigs were of
innumerable sizes and shapes and bore descriptiv names, those of England
and colonial America being often whimsical and, to us now, grotesque,
as: Adonis, allonge, beau peruke, bob, brigadier, campaign, club,
cut-w., corded wolf’s paw, Count Saxe’s mode, giddy feathertop,
Gregorian, grave full-bottom, Grecian fly, Jansenist, lavant, lawyer’s
long tail, fox-tail, full-bottom, feathertop, macaroni toupee, major,
minor, neck lock, scratch, spinach seed, she-dragon, snail back,
Ramillies, tie, twist, royal bird, tuck, wild boar’s back, vallancy,
dalmahoy, rhinoceros, Tyburn, cauliflower, curley roys, minister’s bob,
airy levants, etc. Wigs are still worn on the English bench and by the
speaker of the House of Commons.
=Wigan=—a very stiff, open, canvas interlining material used by tailors
for stiffening and giving shape to flies, cuffs, vest-fronts, collars,
etc. Also spelt wiggin, wigging, etc.
=Willeying=—a mechanical process for untangling and cleaning wool
fleece. (Fr. name of the inventor.)
=Willie=—too good to live.
=Willow pattern=—an effect in straw hat braids, so woven as to resemble
a willow basket in texture, tho much finer, of course.
=Willowing=—see Willeying.
=Willowing machine=—a machine for cleaning and opening textil fibers and
wools preparatory to the spinning processes. Also called opening m. and
devil.
=Wilsonia magnetic hat=—a h. that had a tremendous vogue during the
third quarter (?) of the last century because supposed to be infallible
as a cure for headache, neuralgia, etc., owing to small strips of
magnetised steel sewed to a cloth band which was attacht to the h.
inside the leather sweat-lining. (Name from that of the manufacturer?)
=Wincey=—a cloth, plain or twilled, usually with a cotton warp and wool
filling.
=Wind muff=—see W. shield.
=Wind shield=—a silk or light rubber part sewed to the lining of a coat
sleeve near the cuff, with an elastic or drawing cord to make it fit
snugly to the wrist for the purpose of excluding wind while
automobiling, etc.
=Window garments=—generally speaking, g. that are much better than the
g. actually delivered to the customer; a favorit device of the “cheap
tailor” for attracting trade, being made almost invariably by highly
paid journeymen tailors, and representing in the case of coats a cost
from $8 to $15 for making alone, against say $2.50 to $5 that it would
cost the tailor himself to produce in his own shops; naturally such
coats are not for sale, except at the end of the season, and then for as
much as they will bring; the readymade clothier also occasionally
indulges in this practice—the really fashionable tailor almost never, as
he seldom has show windows and as seldom advertises; besides his
everyday g. are as good in workmanship and usually superior in style.
=Window of the sole=—proprietary term for a paper label attacht by its
edges to the center of a shoe s., on the outside, the space beneath not
being stained, while the rest of the s. is both stained and polisht;
removal of the “window” covering exposing and attesting the quality of
the leather; a trade mark of the Regal Shoe Co.
=Window trimmer=—a man who generally understands the psychology of
attracting attention.
=Windsor cap=—a fur c. with a high, full, round crown and a wide,
rolling band, high at rear and sloping to a short, rolled peak in front.
=Windsor leather=—a straight-grained, stampt l. used for hand luggage.
=Windsor tie=—affected by would-be bohemians and forced upon helpless
children such as would-be little Lords Fauntleroy.
=Wine stiff=—trade term for felt hats stiffened by a preparation of
alcohol. See Water s.
=Wing collar=—a standing shirt c. with triangular, turned back points or
wings; also known as Piccadilly and “white wings”.
=Wing tip=—an ornamental tip on a shoe, which instead of being cut off
at right angles or in a straight line as ordinary tips, is carried back
along the sides.
=Wining=—in hat making the act or process of putting a solution of
shellac upon the edge of a brim to re-enforce or harden same.
=Winter mink=—m. caught in the cold winter months; the finest quality.
Compare Spring m.
=Winter tan=—any extra stout t. leather used for heavy footwear,
particularly storm boots.
=Winter weight=—in the woolens trades suitings of 16 to 20 ounces and
overcoatings of 24 to 30 ounces to the yard are so known. Compare Spring
w., Fall w., Summer w., Tropical w.
=Wipe=—a handkerchief.
=Wiping in=—the process of shaping the toe or other parts of a shoe by
means of iron wipers or grippers.
=Witch=—the shed motion of a loom. See Dobbie.
=Witney=—a heavy cloth. See Whitney.
=Woad=—(1) an herb of the mustard family (esatis tinctoria), used by the
ancient Britons for staining their bodies and later by dyers as a dye
and as a ferment; (2) the blue dye obtained from the leaves of the plant
but now almost entirely superseded by indigo, with which, however, it is
occasionally mixt to promote fermentation.
=Woaded=—dyed or tattooed with woad.
=Wombat=—an Australian animal, somewhat like a small bear.
=Wood silk=—a textil fiber produced by chemical treatment of wood pulp,
making yarns of good strength and great brilliancy and softness,
permanent except against the action of water. See Artificial s.
=Wood yarn=—cellulose fiber converted into flat strips of requisit
thickness and width and then spun into textil y., sometimes alone and
sometimes, for greater strength, around a minute cotton thread, forming
the material known as Xylolin (qv). This y. can be woven into almost any
fabric or form, such as dress and clothing fabrics, bathing suits,
underwear, imitation Panama hats, carpets, bagging, draperies, etc. It
is washable and cleanable, and is not especially combustible.
=Woof=—(1) the threads that cross the warp in weaving; the weft or
filling; (2) a term sometimes used to indicate finisht cloth or
textures.
=Wool=—the fleece of sheep; used for textil and similar purposes. In
grading the shorn staple the most common practise is to classify it into
three grand divisions, to wit: (1) carding or clothing w. (also called
“short staple” [2 to 4 inches long]), such as merino, having special
felting properties; (2) combing w. (also called “long staple” [4 to 10
inches long]), in which length of staple is first consideration and
felting properties are not desired, being appropriate for hardspun
worsted yarns; (3) miscellaneous, a grouping of long, strong, coarse w.
suitable for blankets, carpets (sometimes known by these and other
names), coarse clothing, etc. These, again, are subdivided into the
following grades:
XX Combing, or the very finest, 6 inches and above in length.
No. 1 Combing, or 2d. finest, 6 inches and above in length.
No. 2 Combing, or 3d. finest, 6 inches and above in length.
Braid Combing, or coarse hair, 6 inches and above in length.
Fine No. 1, medium stapled, 5 to 6 inches in length.
Medium or No. 2, 5 to 6 inches in length.
Carding No. 1 and Kid, less than 5 inches in length.
Short staple wools are also known as picklock (finest), prime, choice,
super, head, seconds, abb and breech or livery; long staple or worsted
wools are also classed as fine, blue, neat, brown, breach, downright,
seconds, abb. Wools are further graded according to the parts of the
body from which sheared, the physical condition of the fleece (as common
hair, dead, kemp, crossbreed, ½ blood, ¼ blood, etc.), the country where
produced (as Australian, territory, Oregon, Ohio), etc. The manufacturer
in turn makes from fifteen to twenty or more sorts, according to the
kind of yarn and goods he produces, and each mill has its own standard
and nomenclature. Short staple wools are the finest and long staple the
coarsest. The value of combing hair increases with every inch of length,
other conditions being equal. The scope of this work does not permit an
extended treatis (which the subject merits)—so you had better consult
some authoritativ book on wools and weaving, or some good encyclopedia.
=Wool backt=—a worsted fabric, of typical worsted face, but with a
backing of w., the pattern not going thru; plated. See Thru-and-thru.
(=W. backed.=)
=Wool clip=—one season’s c. or shearing of w.
=Wool dyed=—d. in the w. before making into cloth. Compare Ingrain dye.
=Wool extract=—see Extract w.
=Wool felt=—hatter’s term for felts (and hats thereof) made from sheep’s
w. The process said to have been discovered by St. Clement, who, while
on a pilgrimage, pluckt a handful of w. from a sheep by the wayside and
placed it in his sandals; the action of walking and heat from his feet
formed the w. into a compact mass.
=Wool-in-the-grease=—(1) uncleaned w.; (2) a clip.
=Wool seal=—a heavier and more hairy pelt than the fur s., used for less
expensiv garments. Also the hide of this species of seal furnishes the
leather and fur pocketbooks, belts, bags, etc. Compare Fur s.
=Wool shears=—a tool very much like lawn (grass) shears.
=Wool sorter’s disease=—a kind of blood poisoning from infected w.,
probably anthrax.
=Woolenet=—a light-weight woolen fabric.
=Woolens=—general name for cloths made of carded wool in
contradistinction to worsteds (of combed w.); usually soft woven.
=Work-in=—see Hold in.
=Working coat=—(1) a weatherproof sack c., either single or
double-breasted, worn in place of both suit-coat and overcoat; usually
of leather, canvas, corduroy, etc., (2) a jumper.
=Working dress=—(=navy=) attire prescribed to be worn by details of men
or others engaged in work for which it may be necessary. For all but
ordinary enlisted men, both blue and white w. d. is the same as blue and
white undress, but the w. d. prescribed for “all other enlisted men” may
be drawn and worn during work such as requires it; for all other
enlisted men: blue w. d., blue w. jumper, blue cloth or flannel
trousers, blue cap, no neckerchief nor knife lanyard. White w. d.: same
as white undress, but old clothes may be worn.
=Working jumper=—(=navy=) same as undress j. (qv), but made of dark blue
flannel.
=Working shoe=—any stout s. of coarse leather, usually on the brogan
order.
=World-beater=—term of real or assumed enthusiasm employed by some
salespeople, advertisement writers, et al., in commendation of really or
fictionally exceptional values or merchandising “events”.
=Worumbo=—general term for men’s wear fabrics, especially chinchilla
overcoatings, made by the Worumbo Mfg. Co., Lisbon Falls, Me.
=Worsteds=—general name for fabrics constructed of combed wool; usually
hard woven and variously finisht.
=Wrap=—a sort of hold-all in which various kinds of luggage may be packt
or wrapt.
=Wrap-rascal=—a close-buttoned jocky coat with large metal buttons. See
also Joseph.
=Wrapper=—(1) any loose flowing outer garment, as a dressing gown (term
now almost entirely confined to women’s wear); (2) an infant’s
undershirt of the button-down-the-front variety.
=Wrappers=—leggings.
=Wrapping stitch=—a loose s. binding edges and seams; an overcast s.; a
whip s.
=Wrinkle=—a pucker or crease; sign of bad tailoring or careless wear.
=Wrist support=—a leather band with strap to prevent spraining the w.,
worn by baseball players, draymen, etc.
=Wristband=—(1) specifically, the narrow band that terminates a shirt
sleeve; (2) a short or narrow cuff.
=Wristfall=—a falling band or ruff once worn about the wrist.
=Wristler=—a knitted band worn on the wrist for warmth.
=Wristlet=—same as Wristler.
X
=Xylolin=—a new textil material made in Saxony, consisting of narrow
strips of light paper and cotton or wool spun and woven into a
cream-colored cloth fabric. So cheap that a complete plain suit of men’s
clothes may be produced from it for as little as three dollars. It is
claimed that this fabric can be washt repeatedly without injury to the
surface.
Y
=Yacht cloth=—a light, fine twill woven woolen cloth, finisht with a
roughish surface and dyed in plain colors; a sort of heavy flannel.
=Yacht hat=—see Boater.
=Yachting cap=—a style of cloth c. with a full crown and a small peak or
visor.
=Yachting shoe=—commonly, a low-cut leather or canvas s. with wedge
heels and rubber soles.
=Yankee cap=—a cloth c. having a flat or round crown and a closely
sticht brim turned straight up behind and down in front (tho the back
may be dropt for storm wear); devised for automobiling.
=Yankee notions=—small labor saving contrivances, toilet or dress
adjuncts, etc.; anything you can think of; term more used in England
than here.
=Yard-and-a-quarter-stick=—very useful in the clothing and tailoring
trades.
=Yard stick=—if full length, 36 inches long.
=Yard-wide=—36 inches, of course.
=Yarn=—thread for knitting or weaving.
=Yarn-dyed=—see Skein dyes.
=Ylang ylang=—“flower of flowers”; a perfume derived from or in
imitation of the flowers of a Malayan tree of the custard-apple family.
=Yoke=—a band or cross-piece to which other parts of a garment are
attacht.
=Yoke coat=—a coat made with a yoke back or front, or both.
=Yolk=—the fatty or greasy matter contained in wool; also called suint.
Z
=Zanella=—a variety of cotton-warp worsted serge used for coat linings,
umbrella coverings, etc.
=Zebra stripes=—one of 1907’s foolishnesses in men’s wear
woolens—simply, any stark, staring stripe.
=Zerape=—see Serape.
=Zero collar=—proprietary name for a very deep variety of ulster c.
=Zouave cap=—a sort of fez.
=Zouave jacket=—a short j. or blouse reaching about to the waist, and
cut away in front.
=Zouave trousers=—bloomers!
=Zouave uniform=—you’ve just read it!
=Zuchetta=—a small, round, clerical skull cap of silk or velvet,
covering the tonsure, and of color suited to the wearer’s rank.