LOBSTER.

Lobster, to be eatable, should be perfectly fresh. One of the tests of

freshness is to draw back the tail, for if it springs into position

again, it is safe to think the fish good. The time of boiling varies

with the size of the lobster and in different localities. In Boston,

Rockport and other places on the Massachusetts coast the time is

fifteen or twenty minutes for large lobsters and ten for small. The

usual way is to plunge them into boiling water enough to cover, and to

continue boiling them until they are done. Some people advocate

putting the lobsters into cold water, and letting this come to a boil

gradually. They claim that the lobsters do not suffer so much. This

may be so, but it seems as if death must instantly follow the plunge

into boiling water. Cooking a lobster too long makes it tough and dry.

When, on opening a lobster, you find the meat clinging to the shell,

and very much shrunken, you may be sure the time of boiling was too

long. There are very few modes of cooking lobster in which it should

be more than thoroughly heated, as much cooking toughens it and

destroys the fine, delicate flavor of the meat.

To open a lobster.

Separate the tail from the body, and shake out the tom-ally, and,

also, the "coral," if there is any, upon a plate. Then by drawing the

body from the shell with the thumb, and pressing the part near the

head against the shell with the first and second finger, you will free

it from the stomach or "lady." Now split the lobster through the

centre and, with a fork, pick the meat from the joints. Cut the under

side of the tail shell open and take out the meat without breaking. On

the upper part of that end of this meat which joined the body is a

small piece of flesh, which should be lifted; and a strip of meat

attached to it should be turned back to the extreme end of the tail.

This will uncover a little vein, running the entire length, which must

be removed. Sometimes this vein is dark, and sometimes as light as the

meat itself. It and the stomach are the only parts not eatable. The

piece that covered the vein should be turned again into place. Hold

the claws on edge on a thick board, and strike hard with a hammer

until the shell cracks. Draw apart, and take out the meat. If you have

the claws lying flat on the board when you strike, you not only break

the shell, but mash the meat, and thus spoil a fine dish. Remember

that the stomach of the lobster is found near the head, and is a

small, hard sack containing poisonous matter; and that the intestinal

vein is found in the tail. These should always be carefully removed.

When lobster is opened in the manner explained it may be arranged

handsomely on a dish, and each person can season it at the table to

suit himself.

Lobster Broiled in the Shell.

Divide the tail into two parts, cutting lengthwise. Break the large

claws in two parts, and free the body from the small claws and

stomach. Replace the body in the shell. Put the meat from the claws in

half of the shells it came from, and put the other half of the shells

where they will get hot. Put the lobster into the double broiler, and

cook, with the meat side exposed to the fire, for eight minutes; then

turn, and cook ten minutes longer. Place on a hot dish, and season

slightly with salt and cayenne, and then well with _maître d'

hôtel_ butter. Cover the claws with the hot shells. Garnish the

dish with parsley, and serve.

Broiled Lobster.

Split the meat of the tail and claws, and season well with salt and

pepper. Cover with soft butter and dredge with flour. Place in the

broiler, and cook over a bright fire until a delicate brown. Arrange

on a hot dish, pour Bechamel sauce around, and serve.

Breaded Lobster.

Split the meat of the tail and claws, and season well with salt and

pepper. Dip in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs, which let dry on

the meat; and then repeat the operation. Place in a frying-basket, and

plunge into boiling fat. Cook till a golden brown--about two minutes.

Serve with Tartare sauce.

Stewed Lobster.

The meat of a two and a half pound lobster, cut into dice; two table-

spoonfuls of butter, two of flour, one pint of stock or water, a speck

of cayenne, salt and pepper to taste. Let the butter get hot, and add

the dry flour. Stir until perfectly smooth, when add the water,

gradually, stirring all the while. Season to taste. Add the lobster;

heat thoroughly, and serve.

Curry of Lobster.

The meat of a lobster weighing between two and three pounds, one very

small onion, three table-spoonfuls of butter, two of flour, a scant

one of curry powder, a speck of cayenne, salt, a scant pint of water

or stock. Let the butter get hot; and then add the onion, cut fine,

and fry brown. When the onion is cooked add the flour and curry

powder, and stir all together for two minutes. Add stock; cook two

minutes, and strain. Add the meat of lobster, cut into dice, and

simmer five minutes. Serve with a border of boiled rice around the

dish.

Devilled Lobster in the Shell.

Two lobsters, each weighing about two and a half pounds; one pint of

cream, two table-spoonfuls of butter, two of flour, one of mustard, a

speck of cayenne, salt, pepper, a scant pint of bread crumbs. Open the

lobster and, with a sharp knife, cut the meat rather fine. Be careful,

in opening, not to break the body or tail shells. Wash these shells

and wipe dry; join them in the form of a boat, that they may hold the

prepared meat. Put the cream on to boil. Mix the butter, flour,

mustard and pepper together, and add three spoonfuls of the boiling

cream. Stir all into the remaining cream, and cook two minutes. Add

the lobster, salt and pepper, and boil one minute. Fill the shells

with the mixture, and place in a pan, with something to keep them in

position (a few small stones answer very well). Cover with the bread

crumbs, and brown for twenty minutes in a hot oven. Serve on a long,

narrow dish; the body in the centre, the tails at either end. Garnish

with parsley. If for a large company, it would be best to have a broad

dish, and have four lobsters, instead of two. This is a very handsome

dish, and is really not hard to cook. There is always a little more of

the prepared lobster than will go into the shells without crowding,

and this is nice warmed and served on slices of crisp toast.

Escaloped Lobster.

Prepare the lobster as for devilling, omitting, however, the mustard.

Turn into a buttered escollop dish, and cover thickly with crumbs.

Brown in a hot oven, and serve.

White stock may be used instead of the cream. Many people who cannot

eat lobster when prepared with cream or milk, find it palatable when

prepared with stock or water.

Lobster Cutlets.

A lobster weighing between two and a half and three pounds, three

table-spoonfuls of butter, half a cupful of stock or cream, one

heaping table-spoonful of flour, a speck of cayenne, salt, two eggs,

about a pint of bread crumbs, twelve sprigs of parsley. Cut the meat

of the lobster into fine dice, and season with salt and pepper. Put

the butter on to heat. Add the flour, and when smooth, add the stock

and one well-beaten egg. Season. Boil up once, add the lobster, and

take from the fire immediately. Now add a table-spoonful of lemon

juice. Butter a platter, and pour the mixture upon it, to the

thickness of about an inch. Make perfectly smooth with a knife, and

set away to cool. When cool, cut into chops, to resemble cutlets. Dip

in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs, being sure to have every part

covered. Place in the frying-basket and plunge into boiling fat. Cook

till a rich brown. It will take about two minutes. Drain for a moment

in the basket; then arrange on a hot dish, and put part of a small

claw in each one, to represent the bone in a cutlet. Put the parsley

in the basket and plunge for a moment into the boiling fat. Garnish

with this, or, pour a white or Bechamel sauce around the dish, and

garnish with fresh parsley. The quantity given will make six or seven

cutlets.

Canned Lobster.

Canned lobster can be used for cutlets, stews, curries and patties,

can be escaloped, or served on toast.

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