CHAPTER VII

THE BUFFO'S HOLIDAY

I do not remember who started the idea that the buffo should come to

Catania with me; it grew up, as inevitable ideas do, without any of us

being sure whether he suggested it, or Papa, or Gildo, or one of the

sisters, or I, and it became the chief subject of conversation in the

Greco family for days.

It would not be true to say that he had never been away from Palermo,

because when he was a boy all the family went to try their fortune in

Brazil and stayed there five years running a marionette theatre; when

they returned to Palermo, they left behind them in South America the

eldest son, Gaetano, who still keeps a teatrino there. But the buffo saw

no more of South America than he has seen of Sicily and, except for this

five years in Brazil and an occasional day in the country round Palermo,

had never been outside his native town. But he knew that Catania was on

the other side of the island and near the sea, and expected it to be

hotter than Palermo because of the propinquity of Etna. He paid no

attention to my assurances that the temperature would be about the same

and said he should bring his great-coat, not on account of the heat, but

because he hoped that if he was seen with it he might be taken for an

English tourist.

We did not start from Palermo together. I had to go to Caltanissetta,

which is on a line that branches off at S. Caterina Xirbi from the main

line between Palermo and Catania. We arranged to meet at the junction

three days after I left Palermo. I got there from Caltanissetta just

before the train from Palermo arrived, and the buffo was looking out of

the window. As soon as he saw me on the platform he got down and came to

me saying:

"Oh! I am so glad to see you again; now everything will be all right. I

have been wretched ever since you went away. I have not been able to eat

by night or to sleep by day for thinking of you. And this has been going

on for two whole months; but now I shall recover."

So we got into the train and pursued our journey.

"I see you have brought your great-coat," I said.

"Yes," he said, "if I am to be an English gentleman I shall have to wear

it in Catania."

"But won't it do if you carry it over your arm?" I inquired.

"No," he said, "because then they would see my other coat, and that is so

dilapidated they would suspect the truth."

"Your clothes are quite good enough for any English gentleman anywhere,"

I pointed out.

"They are not so good as yours," he replied; "the teatrino is dirty and

they soon wear out. My great-coat appears to be fresh because I seldom

put it on. I shall use it in Catania to conceal the shabbiness of my

other clothes."

"You need not be so particular. My father when he travelled in Italy did

not pay so much attention to his personal appearance."

"You have never told me about your father. Did he travel for some

English firm? Was it tiles? or perhaps sewing-machines? They pay

better, I believe."

"He did not travel for any firm. He was a barrister, an avvocato, and

travelled for recreation during the Long Vacation. I can tell you how he

used to dress, because just before I left London I copied part of a

letter he wrote to my mother, and I have it in my pocket."

This is the extract from my father's letter which I read to the buffo; it

is dated Hotel des Bergues, Geneva, 1 October, 1861:

Reading the _Times_ of Friday this morning I saw a letter signed G.U.

which I have no doubt is a mistake for J.U. and means John Unthank

and which signifies he and his family are in Paris. It is a letter

complaining of the shabby costume of Englishmen and is a foolish

letter but it will have the effect of making me furnish myself with a

new wideawake or something of that sort at Paris for my present

wideawake has got another hole in it and is really very bad though I

don't know why it should wear so fast as I take great care of it and

am rather disappointed that it should fall to pieces. Mr. Unthank

pointed out to me on the Lake of Como that my dressing-gown which I

always wear travelling is out at elbows which indeed I find it is but

that fact seemed to grieve Mr. Unthank less than the shabbiness of my

hat and he offered to give me a new one that is a wideawake of his

own which had been newly lined and not worn as he said since it was

lined if I would throw my old wideawake away. I consented but I left

Milan before he had an opportunity of performing his promise.

"It was kind of your father's friend to offer him his old hat; don't you

think so?"

"Yes, very kind of him. But, you see, he had his reasons."

"Of course, he did not want to be seen with anyone so badly dressed."

"That is what he says in his letter to the _Times_. I copied that in the

British Museum. He does not mention my father by name, he merely speaks

of well-dressed Englishmen in Paris (by which he means people like

himself) frequently seeing a respectable professional man disguised as an

omnibus conductor or cab-driver and 'being compelled to stand talking

with a vulgar-looking object because they have unfortunately recognised

an old acquaintance and not had time to run across the road to avoid

him.' My father, no doubt, thought of Mr. Unthank's conversations with

him at Como and Milan and said to himself, 'That's me.' The cap fitted

him and he put it on."

"Excuse me; your father cannot have put the cap on, he says he had to

leave Milan too soon for that."

"O my dear Buffo, I am so sorry. When I said the cap, I did not mean the

wideawake, I was only using an English idiom."

"I see, I understand. We also have a similar expression, but it is not

about hats, it is about boots, I think, or coats. I will find out and

tell you."

"My father does not say he 'had to leave'; he only says he left; and my

mother, who agreed with his friends and thought his taste in dress

deplorable, believed that he ran away to escape from Mr. Unthank's hat."

"Oh! but a hat is always worth something. I should have waited for the

hat. Was it really a very bad one?"

"I do not remember it, I should think it must have been pretty bad. The

dressing-gown was awful. It was maroon, and his friends called it his

wife's mantle. After he left off wearing it, it was given to us children

for dressing up. It was no use for anything else and it was not much use

for that. So you see, Buffo, you need not trouble about your clothes if

you want to appear English. You do not look in the least like a

cab-driver."

"Perhaps not; but I think it will be safer for me not to be an

Englishman. All this about your father's dressing-gown happened half a

century ago, and the letter and the article in the _Times_ must have done

some good because the English gentlemen who come to the teatrino do not

dress like that now. You are always beautifully dressed."

"Thank you very much, Buffo, but if that is more than merely one of your

Sicilian compliments, it only shows that I inherit my ideas about dress

from my mother rather than from my father."

"I think I had better be a Portuguese gentleman from Rio, a friend of

yours, over on a visit, and you shall be a Sicilian."

"We will be a couple of cavalieri erranti like Guido Santo and Argantino

on their travels. But I do not think it will quite do for me to be a

Sicilian. I cannot talk dialect and I cannot gesticulate. And then, am

I not too well dressed?"

"That will not matter; you shall be an aristocratic Sicilian, they are

often quite well dressed. And as for the dialect and the gesticulation,

it is now the fashion among the upper classes to speak Tuscan and not to

gesticulate. It is considered more--I cannot remember the word, I saw it

in the _Giornale di Sicilia_, it is an English word."

"Do you mean it is more chic?"

"It is not exactly that and chic is a French word. One moment, if you

please. It is--we say lo snobismo."

"I see. Very well; I will play the Sicilian snob, but I never saw one so

I shall have to do it extempore as Snug had to play the part of Lion."

"What is Snug? another American poet?

"He was a joiner and lived in Athens at the time when all the good things

happened. But his father, the author of his being, as we say, was an

English poet and cast him for the part of Lion in _Pyramus and Thisbe_."

"What is Thisbe? a wandering knight?"

"No. Thisbe was the lady loved by Pyramus and was acted by Flute the

bellows-mender. It's all in that poet who said what I told you when we

were making the Escape from Paris--you remember, about holding the mirror

up to nature."

"I wish I could read your English poets. I like everything English. The

Englishmen who come to the teatrino are always good and kind--tutti

bravi--I wish I were an Englishman--a real one I mean, like you."

Here were more compliments, so I replied: "I wish I were a Sicilian

buffo."

"Ah! but you could not be that," said he. "Now I could have my hair cut

short, grow a beard on my chin, a pair of spectacles on my eyes and heels

on my boots and then I should only have to be naturalised. But you could

never be a buffo--not even an English one."

"No; I suppose not. You see, I'm too serious. Gildo says I take a

gloomy view of life."

"Yes," he agreed, "why do you?"

"I don't know," I replied. "My poor mother--my adorata mamma, as you

call her--used to make the same complaint. She thought I inherited my

desponding temperament from my father."

"As you inherited your taste in dress from her."

"Just so. But I think I am like Orlando and your other paladins, and

that I am as I am because it was the will of heaven."

"That is only another way of saying the same thing," observed the buffo;

which rather surprised me because I did not know he took such a just view

of the significance of evolution.

On arriving at Catania we went to the albergo and, instead of following

the usual course and giving his Christian name and surname, Alessandro

Greco, he preferred to specify his profession and describe himself as

"Tenore Greco." They posted this up in the hall under my name, with the

unexpected result that the other guests ignored him, thinking the words

applied to me and that I was a tenor singer from Greece.

The first thing to be done was to go out and get something to eat, and as

we went along the buffo expressed his delight with the appearance of

Catania. He had no idea that such a town could exist outside Palermo or

Brazil.

"It is beautiful," he exclaimed, "yes, and I shall always declare that it

is beautiful. But, my dear Enrico, will you be kind enough to tell me

why it is so black?"

"That, my dear Buffo," I replied, "is on account of the lava."

"But how do you mean--the lava? What is this lava that you speak of, and

how does it darken the houses and the streets?"

To which I replied as follows: "The lava is that mass of fire which

issues from Etna and then dissolves itself and becomes formed into black

rock, and, as it is excessively hard, the people of Catania use it for

building their houses and for paving their streets."

I do not remember expressing myself precisely in these words, but the

buffo wrote me an account of his holiday and this is what he says I said.

It seems that I continued thus:

"This house, for example, is built of lava, this pavement is lava, those

columns are lava, that elephant over the fountain is sculptured in lava,

this is lava, that is lava, everything is lava; even those--"

"Stop, stop," interrupted the buffo, "for pity's sake stop, or I shall

begin to think that you and I also are made of lava."

We reached the Birraria Svizzera and sat down.

"Are you hungry, Buffo?"

"I am always hungry. My subterranean road is always ready."

"That's capital," I replied. "And what particular fugitive would you

like to send down it now?"

"Seppia and interiori di pollo," he replied without hesitation.

Now the first of these is cuttle-fish and looks as though the cook in

sending to table something that ought to have been thrown away had tried

to conceal it by emptying a bottle of ink into the dish; the second is

un-selected giblets. So I replied:

"Very well; but I don't think I'll join you. No one will believe I am a

Sicilian unless I eat maccaroni, and perhaps I will have a veal cutlet

afterwards; that will be more suited to my subterranean road."

"You had better have what I have," said he, "it is exquisite."

"Not to-day," I replied gently.

So we ate our dinner and discussed what we should do during the evening.

He wanted to go to the marionette theatre, and I was not surprised, for I

remembered that the vergers of Westminster Abbey and of Salisbury

Cathedral spend their holidays making tours to visit other cathedrals;

cooks go to Food Exhibitions; Scotch station-masters come to London and

spend their time in the Underground railways; and English journalists

when they meet on an outing, say to one another:

"It is a foggy morning; let us go in and split three or four

infinitives."

So I took him to the Teatro Sicilia and introduced him to the proprietor,

Gregorio Grasso, a half-brother of Giovanni Grasso, and we went behind

the scenes to study the difference between the Catanian and the

Palermitan systems. He was first struck by the immense size of the place

as compared with his own little theatre; next by the orchestra which,

instead of being a mechanical piano turned by a boy, consisted of a

violin, a guitar and a double-bass played by men; and finally by the

manner of manipulating the figures, which distressed him so seriously

that he forgot he was a Portuguese gentleman and began to give Gregorio a

lesson to show him how much better we do things in Palermo; but it came

to nothing, because a method that produces a good effect when applied to

a small and fairly light marionette will not do when applied to one that

is nearly a metre and a half high and weighs about fifty kilogrammes; it

is like trying to play an elaborate violin passage on the horn. Soon we

were politely invited to go to the front, where we were shown into good

places, and the performance began. In the auditorium there was the

familiar, pleasant, faint crackling of melon seeds and peanuts which the

people were munching as at home, and a man pushing his way about among

them selling lemonade, and water with a dash of anise in it.

The buffo thought the marionettes of Catania were magnificent,

well-modelled and sumptuously dressed; but their size and their weight

make it impossible for them to move with the delicacy and naturalness

which he and his father and brother know so well how to impart to those

at home. They may start fairly well, but sooner or later the figure will

betray to the public the fatigue of the operator who is standing

exhausted on the platform behind, no longer capable of communicating any

semblance of life to the limbs of the puppet. He did not, however,

arrive at this conclusion all at once, for, in the course of the

performance when I asked him how it was that the marionettes of Catania

were not more expressive, he replied:

"I suppose it must be on account of the lava."

The figures appear against the back-cloth and the operator cannot reach

forward to bring them nearer to the audience, thus the front part of the

stage is free--or rather it would be free, but the public are permitted

to stray on to it, and thus the stage presents a picture of marionettes

with two or three live people sitting at each side.

"Buffo mio," I said, "does it appear to you to be a good plan that the

public should go on the stage and mingle with the paladins? It is not

allowed in our own theatre at home."

"I am not sure that it is a bad plan," he replied, "it is true we do not

allow it in Palermo; but one moment, if you please, there is something

coming into my head. Ah! yes, it is about holding up the mirror to

nature. Now here, in Catania, this stage presents a truer mirror of

nature than ours in Palermo. For have you not observed in life that,

with the exception of a few really sensible people like you and me, most

men are merely puppets in the hands of others? They do not act on their

own ideas nor do they think for themselves; also they adopt any words

that are put into their mouths. Now, it seems to me that the proportion

of real men compared with marionettes is not greater on this stage than

we observe it to be in life, and therefore we may say that the proprietor

of this theatre is following the advice of your poet."

He noticed that one of the chief characteristics of the Catanian

marionettes comes into evidence when they are fighting. Two of them take

up their positions opposite each other, sidling round and round like

fighting cocks preparing to set to; they raise their scimitars, cross

them and rub them one against the other, like butchers sharpening their

knives; after a certain time spent in this sword exercise, they cross the

stage and, turning suddenly round, face one another and strike; the

consequence of this manoeuvre is that they both fall to the ground. We

were looking on at such a duel and when the climax came the buffo rose to

his feet and clapped his hands expecting the rest of the public to join,

but to his surprise they remained cold, and declined "to crown his

applause with their acquiescence," as he expressed it. He turned

wonderingly to the young man who was selling lemonade and said, speaking

with difficulty in broken Tuscan, as a Portuguese gentleman from Rio

might be expected to do:

"Tell me, Caro mio, why do not the public join me in applauding?"

"My dear Sir," replied the young man, "it is out of the question. You do

not seem to be aware of the identity of the marionette who has just been

killed. He is a Christian and the brother-in-law of Rinaldo. He is

Ruggiero, a very noble youth. The public do not applaud, because they

are sorry for his death and, besides, it would be an insult to Rinaldo if

they were to applaud at the death of his brother-in-law."

On hearing this the buffo borrowed my handkerchief and wiped away two

tears, one from each of his eyes, then he returned it politely and began

mumbling to himself.

"What are you saying?" I inquired. "Why do you speak so low?"

"Oh, it's nothing," he replied, "I was merely reciting a prayer for the

repose of the soul of poor Ruggiero."

* * * * *

The next morning I was down before him and had nearly finished my coffee

when he came slowly and sadly into the dining-room. I said:

"Good morning, Buffo mio, and I hope you have had a good night and slept

well after your long journey and your evening at the theatre."

He sat down, put his arm on the table and mournfully rested his head on

his hand.

"My dear Enrico," he said, "I have passed a night of horror. I did not

get to sleep at all, and then I was continually waking up again--"

"Nonsense, Buffo," I exclaimed.

"But it's not nonsense. Ah! you do not know what it is to lie awake all

night, sleepless and trembling, between sheets that are made of lava, and

to hear footsteps and the clanking of armour and to see Rinaldo shining

in the dark and threatening you as he holds over you his sword, Fusberta,

and shouts in your ear: 'How dare you applaud when my brother-in-law is

killed?'"

He seemed to enjoy his coffee, however, and to be ready for plenty of

exertion. He wanted a piece of lava to take home with him, and would it

not be possible to pick up a piece if we went to the slopes of Etna? So

we made inquiries and were told where to find the station of the

Circum-Etnea Railway and started soon after breakfast for Paterno. The

soil was black with lava and the wind was tremendous and carried the

gritty dust into our mouths and down our necks. In that way he got

plenty of lava to take home, but he wanted a large piece, and we could

not stop the train and get out and break a piece of rock off, besides, we

had nothing to break it with. We were like that old sailor in the poem

who was surrounded by water, water everywhere, but not a drop of a kind

to satisfy his immediate requirements. It was just as bad at Paterno;

from the station to the town all our energies were required to get along

in the blinding wind and the stinging dust and then we had to have our

luncheon.

"And what would you like for colazione, Buffo?"

"Seppia and interiori di pollo, if you please."

But he had to be a Sicilian and eat maccaroni with me, because the inn

could not provide what he wanted. Altogether the day was perhaps

something of a failure, and we returned without the piece of lava.

In the evening we went to the Birraria Svizzera, and he ate his seppia

while I got through my maccaroni. When his interiori di pollo came I

said:

"I will do my best to eat what you eat, not exactly but as nearly as I

can. Instead of a veal cutlet I will have part of an esteriore di pollo.

It rather surprises me that you should always eat the same things. Gildo

said you like plenty of variety."

"So I do," he replied. "Look at my plate. Can you imagine a more

delicious variety?"

I looked and said: "Certainly there is variety; I doubt whether our

English fowls could show so much. But--well, as long as you like it--"

Being rather tired after our day in the country we did not go to any

theatre, we stayed in the Birraria till bed-time talking and listening to

the music.

* * * * *

Next day was the last of the buffo's holiday, and I proposed another

excursion, but he said:

"Suppose we pretend that we have come to Catania on an excursion, and

then we can spend the day in the city. I want to buy some things to take

home with me for my sisters."

Accordingly we looked in the shop-windows and chose three ornamental

combs made of celluloid for the three sisters, a snuff-box for papa, made

of dried bergamot skin smelling so as to scent the snuff, and a pair of

braces for Gildo. It seemed a pity that the buffo should not have

something also, so he chose for himself a handkerchief with a picture of

the elephant of lava over the fountain in the piazza and he gave me in

return a metal pencil-case. Then the question of the piece of lava had

to be taken up again. We consulted the landlord, who produced a

bit--exactly what was wanted and only one franc fifty. We had been

wandering about in search of it and there it was all the time in the same

house with us.

"What on earth are you going to do with it, Buffo?"

"Why, everyone who goes to Catania brings home a piece of lava."

"Yes, but what do they want it for? It might be a neat chimney ornament,

but you have no fireplace in your house. Or you might use it as a

paper-weight, but in your family you scarcely ever write a letter."

He looked at me sadly for a moment and then said:

"I thought you were an artist and now you are being practical.

Usefulness is not everything. This piece of lava will be for me an

object of eternal beauty, and when I contemplate it I shall think of the

happy time we have spent here together."

I said: "O Buffo! don't go on like that or you will make me cry."

In the evening we went to the Teatro Machiavelli and saw a performance by

living players. In the first act a good young man introduced Rosina to

the cavaliere, who congratulated him on having won the affections of so

virtuous and lovely a girl. The cavaliere gave a bad old woman one

hundred francs, and in return she promised to procure him an interview

with Rosina. The bad old woman persuaded Rosina to enter a house in

which we knew the cavaliere was. The good young man asked the bad old

woman what she had done with his girl; of course she had done nothing

with her, but we heard shrieks. The good young man became suspicious,

broke open the door of the house and, on learning the worst, shot the bad

old woman dead and was taken by the police.

"This seems as though it were going to be a very interesting play," said

the buffo when the curtain had fallen.

"Yes," said I, "what do you think will happen next?"

"You ought to know that," he replied; "it's no use asking me. I never

saw a Sicilian play in Rio."

"Of course not; I was forgetting. I should say that the good young man

will be acquitted because it was justifiable homicide or that he will

return after a short term of imprisonment; in any case I think he will

marry Rosina and live happily ever after."

"I see," he replied. "You think it will be a comedy. People who take a

gloomy view of life naturally expect something cheerful in the theatre.

But what if it is a tragedy? And how are you going to dispose of the

cavaliere? Is he to carry his wickedness through your comedy?"

"You want it to be a tragedy because you are a buffo, I suppose. Now let

me think. If you are right--"

Before I could see my way to a tragic plot, the curtain rose on Act II.

The women of the village were going to Mass, but Rosina, reduced to

ragged misery, fell on the steps, not worthy to enter. The cavaliere

came by and offered her money, which she indignantly spurned. A good old

woman, who happened to be passing, scowled at the cavaliere and kindly

led Rosina away. An old man returned from America, where he had been for

twenty years to escape the consequences of a crime the details of which

he ostentatiously suppressed. This was his native village; he began

recognising things and commenting on the changes. Rosina came to him

begging. He looked at her and passed his hand over his eyes as he said:

"My girl, why are you begging at your age--so young, so fair?"

"Ah! Old man, I am in ragged misery because my father committed a

crime."

"A crime! What crime?"

So Rosina told him about it and the escape of the criminal to America.

The tears in her voice were so copious that her words were nearly

drowned, but that did not signify; we were intelligent enough to have

already guessed the relationship between them and we knew that she must

be supplying the details which he had suppressed.

He struggled with his surging emotions as he watched her delivering her

sad tale and we felt more and more certain that we must be right. There

came a pause. She buried her face in her hands. The old man spoke:

"Twenty years, did you say?"

"Twenty years."

"And what was your mother's name?"

"Concetta."

"Dio mio! And your name?"

"Rosina."

"Mia figlia!"

"Mio padre!"

Here they fell into each other's arms and the orchestra let loose a

passage of wild allegria which it had been holding in reserve. The

revelation of the cause of the ragged misery followed and was nearing its

conclusion when the cavaliere happened to pass by. Rosina pointed him

out to her father, who first made a speech at him and then shot him dead.

Rosina wept over his body, although she hated him, and the curtain fell.

"That was very beautiful," said the buffo. "Do you still think it will

be a comedy? I still believe it will be a tragedy."

"I am not sure," I replied, "but we shall soon know. Did not the old man

listen well?"

"Yes. It was like life. Did you observe how he made little calculations

for himself while she told him the story?"

"Yes, and one could see it all agreed with what he knew."

"He was like your father reading his friend's letter. The cap fitted him

and he put it on."

"Bravo, Buffo!"

"And when he made as though he would stroke her hair and drew back

because he was not yet sure--oh, it was beautiful! But there was one

thing I did not quite understand. Why did the cavaliere fall dead?"

"Because the father shot him," I replied.

"He aimed in the other direction."

"I also noticed that the old man fired to the right and the cavaliere

fell on his left, but that was only because of a little defect of stage

management. It does not do to be fastidious. You must not forget that

they are doing the play as Snug the joiner did Lion, it has never been

written. It will go more smoothly next time."

"Thank you. You see, I am not a regular theatre-goer. There is another

thing that puzzled me. You remember the bad old woman in the first act

who was shot? Should you think I was being too fastidious if I asked you

why she rose from the dead and led Rosina kindly away in the second act?

No doubt it will be explained presently, but, in the meantime, if you--"

"She did not rise from the dead; it was a different woman."

"It was the same woman."

"Anyone could tell you are a Portuguese or an Englishman or whatever you

are--a foreigner of some kind; no Sicilian would make such an objection.

It was the same actress, but a different character in the drama. That

was either because they have not enough ladies in the company, or because

the lady who ought to have taken one part or the other is away on a

holiday, or because the lady who acted wanted to show she could do a good

old woman and a bad old woman equally well."

"Thank you very much. You can hardly expect--But hush! they are

beginning the third act, which will explain everything."

The curtain rose again. The background represented an elegant circular

temple built of sponge cake, strawberry ice and spangles; it stood at the

end of a perspective of columns constructed of the same materials, and

between the columns were green bushes in ornamental flower-pots--all very

pretty and gay--"molto bellissimo," as the buffo said. The orchestra

struck up a jigging tune in six-eight time in a minor key with a refrain

in the tonic major, and a washed-out youth in evening dress with a

receding forehead, a long, bony nose, an eye-glass, prominent

upper-teeth, no chin, a hat on the back of his head, a brown greatcoat

over his arm, shiny boots, a cigarette and a silver-topped cane, entered.

I whispered:

"Is he dressed well enough for an Englishman?

"Yes," whispered the buffo, "but this is no Englishman. Don't you see

who it is and where we are? This is the good young man in paradise. His

punishment has been too much for him and he has died in prison."

"But, Buffo mio," I objected, "it's a different person altogether; it's

not a bit like him."

"It may be a different actor--I think it is--but it is the same character

in the drama. That is either because they have too many men in the

company, or because the actor who did the good young man in the first act

has gone home to supper and another is finishing his part for him, or

because--I can't think of any other reason just now, and I want to hear

what he is saying."

Except for his clothes, the creature on the stage was little more than a

limp and a dribble, but there was enough of him to sing a song telling us

in the Neapolitan dialect that his notion of happiness was to stroll up

and down the Toledo ogling the girls. When he had finished acknowledging

the applause he departed and his place was taken by a lady no longer

young, in flimsy pale blue muslin, a low neck and sham diamonds. There

lingered about her a hungry wistfulness, as though she were still hoping

to get a few more drops of enjoyment out of the squeezed orange of her

wasted life.

"And this must be Rosina," whispered the buffo; "Dio mio, how death has

aged her!" Seeing I was about to speak, he interrupted me: "It does not

do to be fastidious. No real Sicilian would make any objection."

The lady sang a song telling us in the Neapolitan dialect that her notion

of happiness was to stroll up and down the Toledo ogling the men. When

she had finished acknowledging the applause she departed and, almost

immediately, they both came on together.

"I told you so," exclaimed the buffo triumphantly; "they have met in

paradise and are happy at last."

They performed a duet in the Neapolitan dialect and showed us how they

strolled up and down the Toledo ogling one another. After they had

finished acknowledging the applause the curtain fell and we all left the

theatre. I said:

"I do not know whether you are aware of what you have done, but by making

that temple of spangled pastry into heaven you have wrecked your

tragedy."

"Oh, I gave up my tragedy as soon as I saw where we were, and the play

ended quite in your manner, didn't it? like the Comedy of Dante. Or do

you mean that you have any doubts about that last act taking place in

heaven?"

"I have many doubts about that."

"I admit, of course, that it would have been more satisfactory, and much

clearer as a comedy, if we could have seen them both die before they went

to paradise."

"Would you like me to tell you the plain, straightforward, honest, manly,

brutal truth about it?"

"Very much indeed, if you don't mind; but I should not like you to strain

yourself on my account."

"All right, Buffo, I'll be careful. Now listen. I don't believe that

the last act, as you call it, had anything to do with the story. It was

a music-hall turn added at the end of the play merely to close the

entertainment and send the audience away in good spirits."

"But that wrecks your comedy. And if the play was neither comedy nor

tragedy, what was it? You cannot expect a simple Portuguese gentleman

from Rio to understand your Sicilian dramas all at once."

"And we have not time now to discuss the question exhaustively, for if

you do not go to bed immediately you will never be up to-morrow in time

to catch your train back to Palermo, and if you are late what will papa

say and what will the public think when they find nothing ready in the

teatrino?"

"That is true. Good night and thank you very much for my holiday and for

all you have done for me."

"Prego, prego; I thank you for giving me the pleasure of your company."

"Not at all."

"But I assure you--"

"If you go on like this I shall begin to cry, and then I shall not sleep

at all, and that will be worse than sitting up to discuss the play. So

good night, finally."

"Good night, Buffo. You will forgive me if I do not see you off in the

morning; I do not want to get up at half-past five. I wish you Buon

viaggio. Give my love to papa and Gildo and my respectful compliments to

the sisters. Have you got your lump of lava and all your other goods?

That's right. Sleep well and do not dream of Rosina and the good young

man."

"Arrivederci."

TRAPANI

Castellinaria, and Other Sicilian Diversions · 第 7 / 22 章