CHAPTER V

THE CONVEYANCES OF CHINA AND JAPAN

One is always accustomed to think of China as a strange,

topsy-turvy country, where everything is marvellous and unexpected,

so that it is no surprise to find there many queer conveyances and

modes of travel. Even in very early times China, or Tartary as it

was called then, was looked upon as a veritable wonderland, and

Marco Polo, who explored the country more than six hundred years

ago, gives us a very interesting description of how the Emperor

travelled when he went on one of his hunting expeditions. This is

what he says:

"The Khan upon his journey is borne upon four elephants, in a fine

parlour made of timber, lined inside with plates of beaten gold and

outside with lions' skins. Sometimes, as they go along, and the

Emperor from his chamber is discoursing with his nobles, one of the

latter will exclaim, 'Sire! Look out for cranes!' Then the Emperor

has the top of his chamber thrown back, and having seen the cranes,

he casts one of his falcons, and often the quarry is struck in his

sight, so that he himself has the most exquisite sport as he sits

in his chamber or lies on his bed. I do not believe that there ever

existed a man with such sport or enjoyment as he has."

Modern tourists in China cannot see quite such wonderful equipages

as this, but the Emperor's state palanquin, which was still in use

in 1880, was a very gorgeous affair, and it was carried by no less

than sixteen bearers.

China has always been a land of ceremony, and very strict etiquette

is maintained with regard to the conveyances of the mandarins.

Sedan chairs are used, and these vary in colour, decoration, and

number of carriers, according to the rank of the owner. If the

mandarin is of a very high class he is accompanied on his journeys

by a whole retinue of servants. One of these carries a large open

umbrella, a second has a fan attached to a pole, while others bear

tablets on which the insignia of his rank are displayed. It is a

great offence if a man has more coolies in attendance than those to

which he is entitled.

[Illustration: CHINESE COUNTRY CHAIR.]

In a wedding procession a beautiful palanquin is used to take the

bride from her parents' house to the home of her future husband.

It is painted red and ornamented with kingfishers' feathers. The

little Chinese lady only travels once in this gorgeous conveyance.

After her marriage she has to be content with an ordinary sedan

chair, the curtains of which are always tightly drawn so that she

can neither see nor be seen as she is carried through the streets.

[Illustration: MULE PALANQUIN.]

When an important mandarin travels everyone makes way for him and

his imposing retinue, but with those of lower rank this is not

the case, and it is one of the duties of his bearers to keep up

a constant succession of loud shouts and commands such as "Mind

your back!" "Move to the right!" "Get out of the way!" As may

be imagined the streets of a Chinese town are very noisy, for

they are narrow and crowded with a motley throng of people, among

whom are porters with heavy packs on their shoulders, itinerant

merchants carrying their wares in baskets slung on long poles,

beggars, and children of all sizes and ages.

[Illustration: WHEELBARROW OMNIBUS.]

Besides these private sedan chairs there are others which may be

hired. These are fairly comfortable, being provided with cushions

and having a narrow shelf on either side on which the passenger

can rest his arms. In country districts, however, the traveller has

to be content with a simpler conveyance, consisting of a roughly

made bamboo chair attached to long poles.

[Illustration: A TRAVELLING TRADESMAN.]

Sometimes much larger palanquins are seen. These will hold several

people and are carried by two mules or ponies.

In China, rickshaws, which are wheeled chairs drawn by one or

more coolies, are also used, their name coming from the Chinese

word _jin-li-che_, which means "man-power-carriage." These little

vehicles are convenient, but in many cities the streets are so

narrow that they cannot be employed. Then it is that we find the

quaint wheelbarrows, which are, perhaps, the strangest conveyances

in the whole world. These wheelbarrows are used both to carry

passengers and merchandise. Those intended for the former purpose

have a very large wheel, on either side of which is a seat arranged

rather in the fashion of an Irish jaunting car. Below the seat a

cord is suspended on which the feet of the travellers can rest.

Two, four, six, or even, sometimes, as many as eight native women

can be carried, and the coolie who pushes the barrow has a strap

across his shoulders which eases his arms of some of the weight.

Occasionally hooded wheelbarrows are seen, and for them a second

coolie in front is employed.

[Illustration: CHINESE CART.]

In Northern China donkeys and bullocks often drag these strange,

one-wheeled carts. The roads are so bad that it is almost

impossible for larger vehicles to be used, although sometimes we

see a native family with their household goods moving from one

place to another in a rough wagon drawn by an ox and a donkey

harnessed side by side.

[Illustration: JAPANESE RICKSHAW.]

From China we travel still further east, and in Japan, the Land of

the Rising Sun, other curious and picturesque conveyances are to be

seen by the fortunate tourist who is able to journey so far afield.

Horses are very little used in this country, and the Chinese

jin-li-che is the principal conveyance, its name being now changed

into jin-ri-che or jinricksha. Very charming these little vehicles

look, as they careen through the streets of a town, or under the

blossom-covered cherry-trees of a country road, especially if the

wheels are painted scarlet, and if the passengers are two dainty

little Jap maidens, with gay obis round their waists and flowers

decking their smooth, dark heads.

The coolies who draw the jinrickshas are also picturesque in

their blue cotton clothes, and in winter-time they wear most

extraordinary straw cloaks which make them look like small moving

haystacks.

Another interesting Japanese conveyance is the kago. This is a

small, hammock-shaped litter made of cane and bamboo, suspended

to a strong pole. There is an awning overhead, and on this the

light luggage of the passenger--a pair of straw shoes, a bouquet

of chrysanthemums, or a bundle tied up in a brightly coloured

handkerchief--is carried.

The bearers of a kago are two stalwart, bare-legged men, and they

always carry long sticks in their hands.

This curious type of litter is much used by the Japanese

themselves, but not by Europeans, as the occupant of a kago has to

sit with his knees doubled up in what seems to Western ideas a most

uncomfortable position.

There are other strange conveyances to be seen in Japan, one of

the most interesting of all being the Imperial chariot which has

its place in great religious processions. It is drawn by a black

bull, and is decorated with the Mikado's crest, a sixteen-petalled

chrysanthemum.

How the World Travels · 第 5 / 12 章