JOURNEYS THROUGH INDIA
We have seen some of the strange vehicles of England and Europe,
and now we will travel eastward into Asia. There, as is only right,
we must go first to India, for the great peninsula is one of King
George's dominions, and its inhabitants, whether they be black,
brown, or yellow, Hindoo or Mahomedan, civilised or savage, are as
much British subjects as we are ourselves.
[Illustration: STATE ELEPHANT IN INDIA.]
India is an immense country, extending as it does from the
Himalayas in the north to Point de Galle in the extreme south of
Ceylon, and if we travel through the country we shall find many
curious vehicles. Some of them are exactly the same as those which
were in use hundreds of years ago, for India is a conservative
land, and, although there are railways and tramways there now,
while fine motor-cars speed along the roads, most of the natives
are content with old ways, and travel through the country districts
in the quaint bullock carts and palanquins that satisfied their
ancestors in the days before the powers of steam and electricity
had been discovered.
[Illustration: CART IN COLOMBO, CEYLON.]
We will begin with Colombo, as that is usually the place where
travellers land on their journey to the East. When we go ashore
from our steamer we either take rickshaws, which were introduced
into the island from Japan in 1883, or else engage one of
the little bullock carts and drive through the picturesque,
tree-shaded streets of the town. These bullock carts, or gharis,
have two wheels and can be driven very quickly. They are provided
with hoods, as the sun is very hot in tropical Ceylon.
The bullocks are often decorated with elaborate patterns cut
or branded into their hides, and the natives excuse this cruel
practice by saying that not only does it distinguish the animals
from each other and prevent their being stolen, but that it also
protects them from rheumatism.
There are many larger carts with quaint, palm-thatched roofs to
be seen in Colombo. These are called hackeries and are found in
many parts of India. It is often strange and amusing to see the
numbers of natives, men, women, and children, who are able to pack
themselves into one of these vehicles.
There are a great many different varieties of bullock carts in
India. Those in Coonoor, for instance, have very high, narrow
hoods, while in Bombay an awning is provided which stretches out
over the bullock's back and shelters both passengers and driver.
Another type of cart has four wheels and curious cage-like sides,
while the wooden cover is provided with blinds and there is a rack
for baggage on the roof.
In Madras the raikla, a vehicle of quite a different description,
is seen. It appears to consist merely of two wheels and a tiny seat
for the driver. These carts are very swift, and are used when great
speed is required.
[Illustration: BOMBAY CART WITH HOOD.]
In Ajmere the bullock carts have awnings supported by four poles,
and in Calcutta there are elaborately decorated carriages drawn by
gaily caparisoned oxen.
Other interesting conveyances are those in which the zenana ladies
travel. These are carts with a hood, and velvet curtains at the
sides. When in use the curtains can be tightly drawn, so that
passers-by cannot catch a glimpse of the passengers.
[Illustration: CONVEYANCE FOR ZENANA LADIES.]
Besides bullocks, ponies are used in India. They draw the ekkas,
which are light, hooded carts, and the tongas, generally used by
European travellers.
[Illustration: EKKA.]
In some districts of India camels draw carriages, and we have a
picture of a brougham into which two of these ungainly animals are
harnessed. Very strange it looks, with the drivers seated on the
humps of the camels and a rather unnecessary coachman perched on
the box-seat of the vehicle. A more imposing equipage is the state
carriage of the Begum of Bhopal, for this is drawn by four camels,
splendidly caparisoned, and each with a helmeted rider, while other
servants in quaint and gorgeous costumes are in attendance. The
effect is very striking.
[Illustration: CAMELS HARNESSED TO CARRIAGE.]
Besides these elaborate conveyances there are several kinds of
palanquins for use on rough roads and in mountainous districts.
Palkis are litters attached to a single long pole which is carried
on the shoulders of two or more men. Dhoolies are square boxes,
rather like sedan chairs, in which native ladies sometimes travel,
and the ruth is a palanquin on wheels.
In India camels are ridden by both men and women. The latter often
sit in kujawas, which are small square panniers made of wood and
strong netting, and are hung on either side of the animal's back.
Horses, bullocks, and donkeys are also ridden, but the most
imposing steed in India is the elephant, and very magnificent
these great animals look when they are carrying native rajahs or
taking part in some religious procession. On these occasions the
howdah, which is like a palanquin perched on the elephant's back,
is painted or covered with gold and silver, while the animal itself
is often gaily coloured and has his tusks decorated with jewels and
flowers.
Elephants, however, are not always decked in this fantastic
fashion, and often the howdah is a very simple affair rather like a
huge basket in appearance. Sometimes the mahout, as the keeper of
the elephant is called, sits on the animal's broad neck or rides on
a rough wooden saddle.
One of the most curious conveyances to be seen in India is a
travelling theatre, which consists of a large, railed platform
fastened across the backs of two elephants which walk side by side.
This strange moving stage figures in wedding processions and other
festivals, and during its passage through the streets of a town
dancing girls give performances on the platform, which is brightly
illuminated.
Elephants are strange animals and need to be very carefully
trained and kindly treated. There is a story that once in Ceylon a
newly-caught elephant, when required to draw a wagon, felt this to
be such an indignity that he lay down between the shafts and died!
Perhaps his relations in India are not quite so proud and
sensitive, for in that country we find them doing a great deal of
hard work. They move large logs of wood, carry heavy burdens, and
also drag cannon. At times, even, they may be seen taking the place
of steam-engines and drawing railway trucks along the line. In
fact, there is nothing in the way of hard and heavy work that the
elephant cannot do.