French festivals and American holidays are celebrated on board by

concerts, balls, dinner-parties, and extra luxuries at the regular

meals. Entertainment is provided for the steerage passengers, and a

special _menu_ is furnished for the festal days. On such occasions,

too, the ships are gayly decorated with bunting from stem to stern.

Another unique and pleasant feature of the voyage on the French line

is the “Captain’s Dinner.” This takes place just previous to the

termination of the trip.

On the British lines Sunday is suitably observed; the captain, in

full uniform, supported by his officers, reads the Church of England

services, to which all on board are invited. American and British

holidays are also observed in a fitting manner, the vessels being

always “dressed” for the occasion. These lines also have a parting

dinner, usually one or two evenings before arrival in port.

[Illustration: Revenue Officer Boarding, New York Bay.]

All incoming steamers are signalled off Fire Island or Sandy Hook,

their arrival is telegraphed to the Quarantine station and the

ship-news office, and in about three hours the vessel reaches

Quarantine from Fire Island, or about one hour from Sandy Hook. At

Quarantine the health officer boards her, and if it is found that she

has no case of contagious disease on board she is permitted to proceed

to her dock, which she reaches in about one hour and a half, including

the time of examination by the health officer; but if she has any

serious case on board she is detained at Quarantine until she receives

orders from the health officer to land her passengers. As soon as the

vessel is reported inside Sandy Hook the revenue cutter starts down

the bay to meet her, with the customs officers on board. The boarding

officer places several staff officers on board, who go immediately

to the saloon, where declarations are made and signed by the saloon

passengers as to the contents of their trunks, etc., and all baggage is

searched on arrival of the vessel at her dock, when those who attempt

“monkeying” with the customs officials will find out that the little

trick does not pay.

Meantime, how do the steerage folk get on?

Mention has been made of the British Government bill of fare. This was

instituted when clipper ships were in vogue. It was ordered that a

minimum weekly allowance of raw food should be provided for every adult

third-class passenger as follows:

3-1/2 pounds bread, or biscuit, not inferior in quality to navy

biscuit; 1 pound flour; 1-1/2 pound oatmeal; 1-1/2 pound rice; 1-1/2

pound peas; 1-1/4 pound beef; 1 pound pork; 2 pounds potatoes; 2

ounces tea; 1 pound sugar; 1/2 ounce mustard; 1/4 ounce ground black

pepper; 2 ounces salt; 1 gill vinegar.

A government inspector saw to it that these items or their equivalents

were provided upon the departure of every ship carrying third-class

passengers, and that no ship went to sea without being provisioned

for thirty days. The allowance, however, proved not to be altogether

generous, and many passengers brought stores of their own along. In

any event, each passenger had to prepare his own meals at the cook’s

galley, for the number of cooks furnished was always insufficient. The

kitchen is never commodious at the best, aboard ship, and it needs no

imagination to picture the struggle of immigrants, one against another,

for a turn at the fire. The government requisition is still in force,

but it is substantially a dead letter, for not only the British but all

European steamship companies now provide ample fare properly cooked and

served, for all steerage passengers.

A young man who crossed in the steerage last year described his fare

to the writer, thus: “At breakfast,” he said, “we usually had oatmeal

porridge and molasses, with coffee in plenty, and rolls and butter.

This was varied by hash instead of porridge on some days, or perhaps an

Irish stew; but fresh baked rolls and butter were always in abundance.

There was always soup at dinner, and some boiled beef, pork, or fish

with potatoes and bread. Supper did not amount to much, but there was

plenty of plain, good stuff to eat. Roast beef and plum duff were

served at Sunday’s dinner.”

This food was served to the steerage passengers by stewards, but there

was no placing of dishes opposite the passenger’s plate. The general

meal was set down in the middle of the table, and “help yourself” was

the order of the day. The steerage passengers do not cook their own

food now, but they have to provide their own cups, plates, and other

utensils, as well as their own bedding.

All captains of passenger steamships are scrupulously attentive to the

needs of their steerage passengers. Not a day passes that they do not

make a personal inspection of this department, and they are always

approachable in the event of complaints arising on the part of the

poorest travellers. It is related of one old-time commander—Captain

John Mirehouse—that in order to assure himself of the proper quality

and preparation of the steerage food, he invariably had his lunch

served from the steerage galley at the dinner hour; and he used to

declare that his lunches were as wholesome and palatable as he could

desire.

It must not be supposed that steerage passengers are all immigrants.

Odd as it may seem, there are many world wanderers who cross and

recross in the steerage, who travel over great parts of the world,

and who, in their class, are as independent as the more luxuriously

accommodated cabin people. Besides these curious characters there

are Scottish carpenters and other mechanics who come over here for

a few months at a time to take advantage of higher wages, and who

return as they came when Christmas draws nigh. It will doubtless cause

astonishment to most readers to learn that when the Teutonic made her

last voyage to Europe, in December, 1890, she carried 1,400 passengers,

more than 1,000 of whom were in the steerage.

[Illustration: In the Steerage.]

The immigrant business has come to be so important a feature in

transatlantic passenger traffic, that it may not be uninteresting to

conclude this article with a few figures that show somewhat of its

growth and proportions, and also the method of handling the immigrants.

At least eighty-five per cent. of all immigration to the United States

comes through the port of New York. The Board of Immigration was not

established until 1847, and previous to that time records were rather

loosely kept. The official figures, however, have been obtained,[17]

showing that between 1783 and 1847, 1,063,567 immigrants came to this

country; between 1847 and 1873 there were 4,933,562; a marked falling

off in the annual average occurring during the War of the Rebellion;

between 1873 and 1890, inclusive, 4,910,864. Immigration was heaviest

in the years 1881, 1882, and 1883, the figures being 441,064; 455,450;

and 388,267, respectively. The greatest arrival of immigrants in any

one day was on May 11, 1887, when nearly 10,000 were landed at this

port. The greatest number ever brought by a single ship was 1,767,

by the Egypt, National line, in 1873. This good ship was destroyed

by fire, July, 1890, in midocean, on her way to the eastward, but

fortunately not a life was lost.

On the arrival of each vessel at her dock she is boarded by the

Immigration Department boarding officer, and the Customs inspector

and his assistants; the latter examine the immigrants’ baggage, and

sometimes add considerable to Uncle Samuel’s bank account in the way of

duties or the confiscation of smuggled articles. Their baggage is then

checked and placed on board the transfer boats and barges, which convey

them to the Barge Office, where they are examined by a medical staff

and then passed to the registration department in that building; here

they give their name, age, occupation, nationality, and destination;

if they appear as though they were liable to become a public charge,

in compliance with an Act of Congress, they are returned, by the same

vessel on which they arrived, to the place from which they came. But an

opportunity is given to their friends, if any should call, to guarantee

that they will not become a public charge, and they are then allowed to

leave the department in the custody of their friends. Parties seeking

friends call at the information bureau, and if they satisfy the clerk

as to their identity they are allowed to take their friends away. On

leaving the steamship checks are given to them for their baggage, and

it is stored at the Barge Office free of charge, and kept till called

for.

There is a railroad ticket office in the Barge Office, where all the

trunk lines are represented by one general agent, a sort of pool, and

here the immigrant can secure tickets to any point and have baggage

checked to destination; and at no other place can tickets be procured

at such low rates, nor can anyone but an immigrant get such a low rate.

Each immigrant is allowed 150 pounds of baggage free, and the railroad

companies transfer them and their baggage from the Barge Office to

their respective depots free of charge.

A temporary hospital is located in the Barge Office, where immigrants

not seriously ill are kept, and those who may have any serious illness

are sent to hospitals under contract with the department for such

patients.

Each steamship company was formerly required to pay to the United

States Treasury a head tax of $2.50 for each alien steerage passenger;

this fee was reduced to $1.00, and some years ago it was still further

reduced to fifty cents, the present rate. This tax goes to what is

known as the Immigrant Fund.

In conclusion I might truly say that the modern ocean steamship of

the great lines I have mentioned is the embodiment of the latest

achievements of science and art of this enlightened age. So recent are

many of the inventions that such a ship as the City of Paris or the

Majestic could not have been built ten years ago at any price. The

practical effect of all this to the traveller is to bring him very

much nearer to the Old World than his father was, and to make the time

spent in crossing the once dreaded ocean a delightful series of summer

holidays.

Footnotes:

[16] See the chapter on The Development of the Ocean Steamship.

[17] Through the courtesy of Mr. George W. Esslinger, assistant to

Captain John E. Moore, landing agent.

THE SHIP’s COMPANY.

BY LIEUTENANT J. D. JERROLD KELLEY, U. S. NAVY.

HAS STEAM RUINED THE GENUINE SAILORS OF STORY AND

SONG?—HAULING A LINER OUT OF THE LIVERPOOL DOCKS—THE TRAITS OF

MASTER-MARINERS—EDUCATION OF JUNIOR OFFICERS—A FIRE DRILL—STOWING THE

CARGO—DOWN THE CHANNEL IN A FOG—THE ROUTINE LIFE AT SEA—THE TRIALS OF

KEEPING WATCH—A BO’S’N’S RIGHT TO BLUSTER—STEERING BY STEAM—SCRUBBING

THE DECKS IN THE MIDDLE WATCHES—FORMALITIES OF INSPECTION—THE MAGIC

DOMAIN OF THE ENGINE-ROOM—PICTURESQUENESS OF THE STOKE-HOLE—MESSES OF

THE CREW—THE NOON OBSERVATION—LIFE AMONG THE CABIN PASSENGERS—BOAT

DRILL—PLEASURES TOWARD THE END OF THE VOYAGE—THE CONCERT—SCENES IN

THE SMOKING-ROOM—WAGERS ON THE PILOT-BOAT NUMBER—FIRE ISLAND LIGHT,

AND THE END OF THE VOYAGE.

When the breeze is piping free and the tide is running strong none

but a master-seaman may be trusted to haul out of the Liverpool docks

a great Atlantic liner. Should it be a leeward ebb, with the Mersey

spinning under a flurry of squalls and snarling in angry eddies, a

quick eye must mate a clear wit to make the trick a deft one. The

manœuvre is always a delight to the mariner, let bo’s’ns, hopelessly

spliced to such traditions as topsails reefed in stays bawl what they

may about the dead days of seamanship. For here are unfolded the

mysteries of the art, and here are exercised all the higher qualities

of the sailor, and just as much, believe me, as in the old times when

the gray piers and oozy quays were crowded to cheer our famous clippers

warping in and out to the music of barbaric “chanties.”

Beach-combers, shore-huggers—mere Abraham’s men—will tell you the

poetry is gone out of it all, and will, with much damning of their

eyes, and shifting of their quids, and hitching of their tarry

trousers, try to persuade you that steam has ruined the genuine sailors

of story and of song. But this is mere transpontine nonsense, for above

and beyond everything he who commands a ship, smoker or sailer, as it

may chance, must first of all be a seaman. The demands of modern sea

life have increased the responsibilities of the mariner, and in like

measure the professional attainments required are deeper, broader, and

higher than ever before.

What the task of hauling out is, you may best judge by noting the

bulk to be moved, for you can never measure properly the enormous

dimensions of these great steamers until you see them looming in their

true proportions above the walls, and undwarfed, as they are in the

open, by the frame of sea and sky. The bulwarks tower like the walls

of a fortress; the enormous decks sweep with a sheer knowing no broken

curve; the wheel-house lifts its windows above the life-boats, swarming

sternward like a school of pilot-fish; still higher the bridges, often

double-tiered, span and grip the sturdy stanchions; and dominating all,

the elliptical funnels rake jauntily, and the yardless spars taper till

they fine away at their shining trucks into graceful coach-whips.

Shipshape and Bristol fashion, point-device in paint and polish, the

massive hull glides over the quiet waters of the basin; you catch the

sheen of gleaming brasses, of glistening air-ports, of glazed white,

and lacquered black. Obedient as a broken colt to the touch of the

helm, quick in response as a high-bred dog in a leash to the guiding

hawsers, she moves calmly—fit exemplar of strength rightly tempered by

even will—toward the sharp turn where the gateway opens to the river.

Winches chatter noisily; windlasses clink, clink musically; capstans

rattle with slacking cables; jets of steam dart viciously; ripples

stream sternward to the bubbles of the foamless wake; the tremulous

minor, more a wail than a song, of the docking gangs working the

warps, answer the cheery “Yo heave-ohs” of the people on shipboard;

and the quick, sharp orders from the bridge are echoed by high-pitched

answers from the mates, watching with wary eyes everywhere. One screw

turns clumsily ahead, the other circles astern, and then the ship

swings easily, rounding the jagged corner in the hedge of stone with

a gentleness leaving feet to spare. The bow and stern enter fairly,

straight as a mason’s level, the open gateway; a strain is taken on

the line leading from the quarter to the pier end; a moment of rest,

of expectation, succeeded by one of doubt, follows, and then the hail

rings out blithely from the after-whaleback, “All clear, sir.”

The handle of the annunciator connected with the engine-room is jammed

to “hard astern;” “ding! ding!” rings the signal from below; the water

gushes in a turbulent torrent from the outboard deliveries, the engines

throb fiercely, backing with all their strength, and as the lines are

rendered, slacked, eased, let go, the steamer clears the pier-end with

a rush, shoots far into midstream, and thus begins, wrong end foremost,

her voyage westward. In the optimism of the moment the chief officer

and the bo’s’n grow garrulous upon the recondite subject of anchor

gear; the junior officers feel they quite deserve the good luck which

makes them the hustling, bustling mates of a crack racer; and maritime

Jack, still a little groggy and very much unwashed, blesses the stars

that have let begin another “v’yage with an ’arf crown left of his

hadvance,” and the prospects of “some bloomin’ American tobaccy” as

soon as he’s clear of the tideway.

“Not a bad job, sir,” said the pilot, as the anchor takes the bottom

and the ship straightens astern from her cable; “seemed ticklish a bit

for a minute when they ’eld onto the spring so long, sir; but ’ere we

are, bung up and bilge free, and with the looks of a good run, barrin’

the fog per’aps, for the morrer.”

The captain answers smilingly, for these two are old friends, and, what

is more, the hauling out has been a joint enterprise, though the senior

gets the credit, as he should. After a careful survey of the anchorage

and a word with the chief officer, the captain enters his cabin and

buckles down to the routine work, and there is always plenty of that

awaiting him. He glows pleasurably over the handy, seamanlike way they

have left the dock, for nautical critics are plenty and keen, and if he

had not taken up his berth in the river so cleverly, the ill news would

have grown apace, till, with unfair variations, it reached the ears of

their high nobilities—the directors.

Clear-headed, brainy, driving men, are these master-mariners, and

bearing patiently a responsibility that needs an iron will and a

courage faltering at nothing. There is no royal road to their station,

nor can willing hands make them what they must be. They cannot crawl

through cabin windows, nor, for that matter, come flying in a pier-head

jump through the gangway with one leg forward and the other aft. They

have to fight their way over the bows, and struggle out of the ruck and

smother in the fo’ks’le, by sturdy buffeting and hard knocks, by the

persistent edging of stout shoulders backed by strong hearts and steady

brains. If it is in them they will make their way in the end surely,

and may set the course and stump to windward as they please, while

others haul the weather-ear-rings, and drink their grog protestingly.

No; master-mariners are made, not born, and, unlike many of their

brothers in the government service, have to rise by energy, pluck,

merit—why enumerate them?—by a hundred qualities the world is better

for owning.

Old Pepys knew how this sea-kissing goes, and tells us of his favors in

this wise: “That,” he writes, “which puts me in a good humor both at

noon and night, is the fancy that I am this day (March 13, 1669) made

a captain of one of the King’s ships, Mr. Wren having sent me the Duke

of York’s commission to be captain of the Jerzy, ... which doth give

me the occasion of much mirth and may be of some use to me.” Think of

that, you venturesome die-hards, who linger all your lives at the lower

sheerpole, a post-captain by the scratch of a pen, and above all men

given to a lubberly scrivener and an Admiralty clerk at that.

All these elder merchant-masters are sailor-men, some so deep and

dyed in it that if you scratch them they ooze tar, and this briny

saturation has been invariably acquired under sail. After they have

had their ships and made many a voyage, deep water and home, round

both Capes, east and west, wherever winds may blow and freight, the

mother of wages, may linger, they shift into steam, but always in

a subordinate place. Should they stick by one employ they are sent

from ship to ship, working their way upward until they become chief

officers of the choicest vessels in the line. Here they must wait

for dead men’s shoes, or resignation, or forced retirement; but when

the chance comes they are given the command of the smaller and less

important steamers upon some subsidiary route. Then they enter a new

line of promotion, and weary are the years of waiting, and bitter

sometimes the disappointment, before they reach the high-water mark of

their service. And, with this hardly earned promotion, do not come, as

in other professions, ease, comfort, and proper recompense for duty

well done, but heavier responsibilities, harder work, and greater

self-sacrifice; what is worse, and this to the shame of the great

steamship corporations, these gallant men, even at their prime, receive

the most inadequate pecuniary recognition for the burden imposed, for

the mental and physical qualities exercised, for the experience brought

to bear; indeed, in no other trade or profession is equal ability so

badly paid.

The junior officers belong to all sorts and conditions of men. Most

of them have had to fight their way, though some have parents who

could well afford to pay a handsome premium for their sea education in

the training-ships stationed off the principal ports. Here they are

given a strict man-of-war tuition, though the routine of studies and

drills is, of course, modified to suit the results expected. After

their apprenticeship is served they go to sea, usually in sailing

ships; and when later they choose steam, they join as fourth or fifth

officers, and enter upon a career where their future is a hard but an

assured one. In the large employs they are encouraged to enter the

Naval Reserve, and are given time for their drills and opportunities

to qualify for the higher certificates of the merchant service; and

so much are these privileges esteemed that you often find on the

best steamers of the transatlantic liners one-half of the officers

holding masters’ certificates and junior commissions in the auxiliary

government service. Under the new regulations some of these officers

have, besides the guard-ship drill, taken a regular tour of duty as

lieutenants and sub-lieutenants on board sea-going men-of-war, and so

far this has proved a capital plan for both services. The nationality

of the officers is British, naturally, though English and Irish

predominate, the Scotch, somehow, taking more kindly to the engineering

part of the business, and the Welshmen staying at home.

There is a well-founded belief that the deck people are not sailor-men;

nor, indeed, are they in the majority of ships, that is, not sailors

in the true meaning of the word; but, on the other hand, neither are

they the mere swabbers of decks, scrubbers of paint-work, handlers

of the forward and after ends of trunks, or reefers of hat-boxes and

travelling-rugs their critics would have us believe. They belong to a

special class, not a very high one from the maritime point of view,

and are reasonably well fitted for the work expected. This you may

see at fire quarters, for example, a drill which, in these times,

is always held before the passengers come on board. As the alarm is

sounded by the rapid ringing of the ship’s bell, and the commands are

hoarsely shouted along the decks, you may notice, as the men rush to

their stations, the absence of the alertness, neatness, forehandedness

which characterize the man-of-war’s men; but they are sturdy and strong

and willing, and the echoes of the orders, “Fire forward! Main deck.

Quick’s your play,” have scarcely ceased, before a dozen hose are

coupled and run out, bucket and fire-extinguisher lines are formed,

axemen and smotherers are gathered, and hand and steam pumps started

with an energy promising a world of water. Grimy greasers and stokers

rush from below; stewards hop about as none but a steward can; and

butchers, bakers, and electric-light-makers rally in their appointed

places, eager for work, but in the motley of Falstaff’s draft. The

captain, watch in hand, receives the reports that all the departments

have assembled and that abundant streams have been in operation

(overboard, of course, but in the neighborhood of the fire) in blank

minutes—let us say three, as a fair average—from the time the alarm was

first given. Do you wonder if he smiles and says to his chief officer,

“Very creditable, sir; very well done. You may secure, sir?” Very well

done it is, and when you remember this is the first drill and many of

the hands are new, you may feel reasonably assured, should any ordinary

fire break out, that it is all Lombard Street to a Tahiti orange it

will be subdued most promptly.

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