The National Museum is only open in the morning, but Mr. Niven and
Professor (of Archaeology) Mena, opened it for me, and spent the
afternoon explaining things to me. It is a place in which one might
spend to advantage every day for two months. It contains a wealth
of revelation. Even the countries that contain Mexican collections
can have no idea of Mexican primitive culture. One _must_ see the
collection in this Museum.
I had just been given a small jade god, which I recognized at once as
being infinitely old and beautiful. Professor Mena knew all about it at
once. It is a “stone of virtue” (Piedra Divertua) and belongs to the
Mixteca civilization, two thousand years ago. It is beautifully carved
and I love it dearly. (Had it a small pointed beard, it would look like
Trotzky!) I did not exaggerate the impression of my former superficial
visit to the Museum. If I was struck by it then, I was overwhelmed
by it today. The more one looks the more one discovers of beauty.
The best things are masterpieces, and two or three of the reliefs are
as beautiful and as well carved and drawn, as any of the most famous
works of art in the world. I say this with perfect confidence. Egyptian
and Assyrian influence with classic Greek designs and a tremendous
suggestion of Chinese, makes one perfectly bewildered as to origin
and tradition. Upstairs among the smaller things there were objects
of such finished beauty that I was silenced even as to expression of
appreciation. I wonder if I am an unusually ignorant person, or whether
I have made a great discovery. I am under the impression that the world
in general does not know much about things Mexican.
Sometimes, I am afraid to trust my own judgment, ... since I discovered
Shakespeare. It was long after my maturity, and I happened to chance
upon “Midsummer Night’s Dream.” I could not put it down until I had
finished it, and then, so thrilled was I, that I rushed to my family
and told them all about it. Perhaps my discovery of Mexico is another
of the world’s Shakespeares, which everyone already knows about
except me. But so enthused am I, and delighted, that I would like to
take Mexico to England, or else bring England to Mexico.... When I
find something interesting I want to share it.... Russia was a thing
to live, this is a thing to see. Not many of my friends would have
cared to live as I loved living, in Russia. But heaps of people would
appreciate the things that are beautiful to see here in Mexico.
No news from Dr. Atl about Popocatapetl but rumor says it is in
eruption. Message through Mr. Malbran, the Argentine Minister, from
President Obregon, inviting me to Chapultepec Castle Sunday night at
9:00 P.M. Message from Mr. de la Huerta, the Minister of Finance,
saying that he has heard and read of the mondaine society by whom I am
being entertained, and that he suggests that in three days, if I am
tired of these people, I go to see him and he will show me “the other
side of Mexico” ... invitation definite for Monday afternoon next.