Officers of State, &c. who by the skill of the architect, will be most
conveniently lodged; as yet, however, none but those of the King are
completed. These are finished in the richest style, and with a neatness
and elegance that prevents our being dazzled by their magnificence. The
walls are washed with light colours (for the Italians use no paper),
with elegant mouldings of gold and silver, and the ceilings are adorned
with a variety of most beautiful paintings. That of the Three Graces in
the Queen's bath, is a most masterly piece; they have just been bathing,
the beauty of their faces and symmetry of their persons, are beyond
description.
Several of the lower rooms are filled with statues, not yet put up. The
best is Agrippina sitting on a chair, with her feet out, so very
natural, that I was on the point of bowing to her. The Theatre is
nothing extraordinary. The aqueduct we had not time to see.
St. Januarius is the tutelar saint of the Neapolitans. His feast is now
celebrating. The people out of doors affect to laugh at the idea of his
blood liquifying, but when the pretended miracle was performed, all of
them kissed the phial with great fervour. The _Nobile_ have given an
oratorio in honor of him; Sir William Hamilton sent us tickets for it.
During this festival the operas are suspended; which has prevented our
seeing more than two. The Theatre of St. Carlos, performers, dresses,
&c. are, in every respect, superior to ours; and yet, instead of
half-a-guinea, the price of admittance is only about eighteen pence.
In England, the singers are never obliged to exert themselves for any
time together: here I have heard _La Banti_ in a cantata that hath
required a constant exertion for near half an hour; _Tomeone_, though
less powerful, is more pleasing: in _Pace caro mio Sposo_, she is
absolutely incomparable. The Coltalines make too many faces; and this is
often the case with the men; but, however hideous in private parties, it
is not much observed on the stage. Their dances are longer than ours,
and, when they form part of the piece, are accompanied by voices.
It would be presumption to attempt to describe the manners of the
Italians on so short an acquaintance. Suffice it to say, that we have
been treated with the utmost attention; that the people are remarkably
partial to our nation; and that being an English Officer is a sufficient
introduction to the first company.
If the lower sort have sometimes taken advantage of our inexperience, it
is no more than we have suffered at home; for, who are more imposing,
particularly to foreigners, than the publicans, waiters, and all that
class of people, in England?
In short, I should be apt to give a very high character of the
Neapolitans, had I not been told that they do not merit the favorable
opinion I have formed of them, and that the civility of the men often
ends in winning your money, whilst that of the women proceeds from an
amorous disposition, tinctured with avarice: but all this it would be
ungenerous to believe, since we have not experienced an instance of
either. The frailty of women I can pity, as well as condemn: but how a
lady can sell her virtue, is, though perhaps it may be accounted for
here, what Englishmen I hope will never comprehend.
The Princess Belmonté is particularly entitled to our regard. Her
fortune renders her superior to any sordid views; and yet she has always
been remarkable for the kindest attention to our countrymen. Her
Highness invited us to a party at her casino, and shewed us a room
entirely furnished in the English style, with the best productions of
Bunbury, Hamilton and Strange.
We have been at several _conversazioni_, which, in the principal houses,
include every other amusement. A suit of rooms is thrown open; the
largest for a promenade in summer, and dancing in winter; the next for
music; a third for billiards; a fourth for fruit, ices, &c. and the rest
for cards and dice. But, if only four or five people meet together, the
Italians call it a _conversazione_.
The Court has been at Castello Mare ever since we arrived. We mean to
call there on our way out of the bay; and Lord Hervey, from whom we have
received the greatest civilities, has promised to accompany us. His
Lordship is one of the King's most intimate friends; and Lady Hervey,
whose gentleness and good sense insure her the hearts of all those who
have the honour to approach her, is particularly esteemed and respected
by the Queen, and all the Italian nobility.
I mentioned before, that the Spaniards ceded Naples to the Emperor, by
the Treaty of Utrecht; but Philip V. of Spain's second wife, Elizabeth
Farnese, heiress to the Duke of Parma, giving him a pretence for
invading Italy, in her right, he made a conquest of Sicily and Naples:
but the other European Powers obliged him to form them into a separate
kingdom, and to give it to Charles, his eldest son by the Princess of
Parma.--A. D. 1735.
All Philip's children by his first marriage dying without issue, Charles
succeeded to the crown of Spain, and resigned [Sidenote: A. D. 1759.]
Sicily and Naples to his third son, Ferdinand IV. the present King, the
eldest being an ideot, and the second becoming Prince of the Asturias,
and heir to Spain.
The government, being founded on conquest, is of course despotic. The
King generally keeps up near thirty thousand men, who seem to be
tolerable troops. The officers are obliged to have a public military
education, and are astonished that this is not the case with us. The
navy consists of three two-deckers, about a dozen frigates, and twenty
galleys. They are at war with the Algerines, but seldom take a prize.
The revenue of the King of Naples is near a million sterling. When
supplies are wanted, his Majesty has only to issue an edict, mentioning
the cause, and the manner in which they are to be raised. He generally
says, that it is by the desire of his Council, which only consists of
his principal Ministers, and the Queen, who is allowed a considerable
share in the administration of the kingdom, from its independence being
in a manner obtained through the female line, as I conjecture; for the
short time I have been in this country has not permitted me to make
myself master of its laws, which, as well as several other matters, I
must pass over till my return. As to churches and convents, I will not
detain you with any account of them; for they are nearly alike in most
Roman Catholic states.
Naples is in Lat. 40° 53′, Long. 14° 12′ East, and, by the shortest
course, about a thousand miles from Gibraltar.
LETTER X.
TO CAPTAIN SMITH.
Off Salerno, October 2d.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
Lord Hervey and Captain Barnard, who have had the goodness to accompany
us thus far, being about to leave us, I embrace this opportunity of
sending you a continuation of my Journal; a form of writing, which, in
conformity to your wishes, I shall always prefer whenever we are at sea.
Friday, September 28th.
At four o'clock, yesterday afternoon, we got under way, in order to pay
the King of Naples a visit at Castello Mare. We were becalmed all night;
and his Majesty, being apprized of our approach, came out to meet us at
day-break, this morning. He was in a man of war brig of fourteen guns,
attended by another of the same force. As soon as he was within about
two miles, he got into his barge, and, there being but little wind,
rowed on board us. We received him with a royal salute.
His Majesty went all over the ship, praised every part of her, seemed
much pleased, and, with a most engaging condescension, thanked us for
the honor we did him, and invited the principal persons on board to dine
at his casino. On leaving the ship, he was again saluted with twenty-one
guns.
Immediately afterwards his Majesty sent the officers a present of some
very fine fish of his own catching, and in the afternoon rowed out again
to take another view of the ship.
Castello Mare is the King's dockyard. Every thing is in high order; but
it is entirely defenceless, and does not give an Englishman a very
formidable idea of the Neapolitan Navy.
There is a village adjoining, above which the King has built a small
palace, or casino, in a most charming situation, with a full view of the
bay. Here his Majesty generally spends great part of the summer, and
enjoys his favorite amusements of fishing and shooting, water parties,
and ship-building.
The King of Naples is thirty-six years old, well made, and rather tall;
lean enough to enjoy all his diversions, of a fair complexion, light
hair, and an affable, open countenance.
Notwithstanding the heavy taxes requisite to the support of his navy and
army, he is adored by his subjects, from the confidence he reposes in
them, and because, in affairs of state, he is always their champion. But
if he has sometimes suffered his partiality for the Queen to get the
better of his judgment, his people are sensible that love always
predominates in the most generous breasts.
Her Majesty is a year younger than her husband. She is sister to the
Emperor of Germany, and to the Queen of France, and is accused of being
extremely ambitious, which the King's easy temper, by giving her the
ascendency in politics, rather increases. In her youth she must have
been amazingly handsome; for notwithstanding her having eight children
living, there is still something very striking about her; and her
charms, it is said, are as powerful as ever on the King. There is no
believing half the stories one hears; and when they tend to scandal or
immorality, it is unjust to repeat any on mere report.
In the evening we got under way, and with a light breeze sailed out of
the Bay of Naples, between Capria and Cape Gampenela.
September 29th.
Becalmed on the coast of Salerno. Nothing can be more beautifully
picturesque. From the water's edge to the tops of the mountains, not a
vacant spot is to be seen. The whole face of the country is covered with
vines, trees, and houses, mixed together in the prettiest confusion
imaginable.
In the afternoon we landed; but the people being suspicious of us, we
could not gain admittance to any of their houses for a considerable
time. At length a priest, after having carefully examined us from his
miranda, opened his doors, treated us with great hospitality, and
laughed at the ignorance of his people.
September 30th.
The Island of Capria is still in sight. Passed the Bay of Salerno, and
the wind being light and contrary, brought to off Pestum. Went on shore
to examine the ruins.
This ancient city, which flourished before the foundation of Rome, was
destroyed by the Goths on the decline of the Roman Empire, and in their
zeal for the christian religion, these fierce barbarians overturned
every place of Pagan worship exposed to their ravages.
The arch of the east gate of the town is still standing. But of a
multitude of beautiful temples, not a column of any one is left, except
of three, which being composed of common stone, the barbarians were
satisfied with destroying the roofs. Two of these are close to each
other. The one has nine columns in front, and eighteen on each side; the
other has six by fourteen. Each of the columns is six feet in diameter,
and the space between them is eight feet. Both of these temples are of
the Doric order. The third is of the Corinthian. They are all three
noble edifices, and the columns, with a great part of the entablature,
are still perfect. Signor Pitelli, a painter whom we brought from
Naples, is busily employed in taking plans of them.
The walls of the city are above two miles in circumference, and eighteen
feet thick, and are easily traced, as well as the mole, which the sea by
an earthquake has left dry.
In the middle of the town there was a famous amphitheatre, one hundred
and twenty-eight feet in length. Enough of the ground work is left to
give a just idea of its construction; and the entrance, with arched
passages on each side for the wild beasts, is still tolerably perfect.
October 1st.
Signor Pitelli not having finished the plans, and the wind continuing
contrary, we carried him on shore again to-day. Here, in a farm-house,
amidst these ruins of antiquity, we saw the modern method of drying
figs, and making raisins. The operation is very simple. Expose the fruit
to the sun for eight or ten days, then bake it, and when packing up,
sprinkle a little flour between the layers.
Pestum was founded by one of those Grecian colonies, who, in the early
ages, established themselves in Italy, whence this country derived the
appellation of Magna Grecia.
LETTER XI.
October 2d.
Lord Hervey took leave of us this morning off Salerno, and had scarce
made the shore in a boat that attended his Lordship, before we were
attacked by an adverse gale of wind, which obliged us to stand towards
the west, pretty close to Capria, and, I assure you, it is with no small
satisfaction, that we find ourselves sufficiently to windward to fetch
the Bay of Naples, should the storm increase.
October 3d.
The gale having moderated, we tacked at one A. M. and at noon the wind
became fair, but has left a heavy sea against us.
October 4th.
At eight A. M. were in sight of Strombolo, the most northern of the
Lipari Islands, which are supposed to be of volcanic origin, that is,
thrown up by eruptions occasioned by fire under the sea, whence Virgil
makes them the residence of Vulcan.
They are also supposed to have given rise to the fable of Eolus, from
one of their Kings of this name, who, by attending to the smoke of the
neighbouring islands, had learned to foretell how the wind would blow.
Homer carries Ulysses to Lipari, the capital of that monarch, who,
compassionating his sufferings, made him a present of the different
winds confined in separate bags, that he might use them at his pleasure;
but when they got in sight of Ithaca, his companions, ignorant of the
contents, untying the adverse ones, he was driven back in a violent
storm, and thus renewed his former woes.
The case is different with us: calms and light variable breezes have
kept us in sight of Strombolo the whole day. The volcano is on its
south-west side, in so fortunate a situation for the inhabitants, that
they have little to fear from eruptions; for the crater is about one
fifth of the height of the island below its summit, and is surrounded on
every side but that nearest the sea, by large cliffs, which seem to
overhang it on purpose to check the eruption when it takes any other
direction; for the stones and ashes which it casts forth, rebounding
from the rocks above, are either again swallowed up, or thrown down the
south-west side into the ocean.
In the afternoon, there was an explosion like the springing of a small
mine. The smoke occasioned by this, being quickly dispelled, it resumed
its former state, which, at the distance of five leagues, appeared
exactly like that which issues from a large double chimney. At this time
it bore S. S. E.
At dusk, it looked like a lime-kiln, and every three or four minutes
emitted a flame, which blazed for a few seconds like a furnace on fire.
During the night, it appeared in all its glory, with every symptom of an
approaching grand eruption. The crater seemed full of burning matter,
boiling on its surface, and every now and then throwing up a large
column of red-hot stones, which bounded down the side of the mountain
into the sea, and, in a manner setting fire to the air as they flew
through it, formed one of the grandest sights it is possible to
conceive. The beautiful effect of these flying red-hot rocks was not
lost until they had been some seconds under water.
Formerly there were only seven of these islands, now there are eleven;
and, from the active state of Strombolo, which is considerably detached
from the rest, I should not be surprised to hear that another island was
thrown up near it: but such an event, although often reported, I can
assure you, has not lately happened here. The last phenomenon of this
kind that has been thoroughly authenticated, is in the Archipelago,
which, in a few weeks, I hope to visit.
All the Lipari islands have had volcanoes in their time; but most of
them have been extinct for many centuries. The whole are subject to the
King of Naples, and add a considerable sum to his revenue, from the
trade they carry on in wine, alum, sulphur, and dried fruit. The wine is
famous; I tasted some of it at Naples, but did not think it equal to its
reputation.
Friday, October 5th.
At day-break, Strombolo was two leagues astern. It looks like a huge
rock rising boldly out of the sea, seems to be about twelve miles in
circumference, and has a small town on the south-east side. The coast of
Calabria, and of Sicily, also in sight. Latitude, at mid-day, 38° 37′.
At sun-set, we entered the celebrated straits of Scylla and Charybdis,
and, in less than an hour and a half, anchored at Messina.
LETTER XII.
TO CAPTAIN SMITH.
Messina, October 8th.
MY DEAR FRIEND,
Messina, which was formerly in so flourishing a state, and which was
accounted one of the prettiest cities in the world, is now exactly in
the condition of Gibraltar during the siege; and the inhabitants live in
just such miserable places as the huts of Black-town and Windmill-hill.
The front of the town extended along the water side, for above two
thousand yards, in the form of a crescent, adorned with pilasters and
pediments, and a grand esplanade open to the sea, which at once formed a
noble pier, and a delightful public walk, flanked by a fort at each end.
The houses were built with great taste, all four stories high, and
nearly alike.
Of this beautiful and magnificent range, only the outside shell remains;
the rest, with all the town, except one or two of the strongest
churches, was entirely destroyed by the dreadful earthquake in 1783.
The center of that tremendous convulsion was at Oppido, in Calabria.
Every thing within twenty miles was entirely overwhelmed, and several
towns, with all their inhabitants, completely swallowed up, not the
smallest vestige of them being left. Scarce a place within seventy-two
miles of Oppido but felt the shock. By the return made to the Secretary
of State, the number of people lost, amounted to thirty-two thousand,
three hundred and sixty-seven souls; and we were told by Sir William
Hamilton, that there were several thousand strangers, travellers, &c.
who were not included in that return.
It is by no means uncommon to hear of the Italians scourging their
saints when they are overtaken by any misfortune; but, since this
dreadful calamity, St. Agatha, the Protectress of Sicily, is more
venerated than ever; for, notwithstanding the loss of their property,
she has the credit of having defended her votaries from the catastrophe
with which their neighbours on the opposite coast were overwhelmed; and
every Sunday night the opera ends with a little piece in her honor.
There is something so amiable in this universal gratitude and
thanksgiving in the midst of absolute ruin, that it is impossible not to
admire the minds that are capable of such virtue, even though actuated
by superstition. But, indeed, if we compare Messina with several other
places, we may reckon her peculiarly fortunate, since, though the town
is destroyed, only nine hundred people perished.
At the time of the earthquake, the Messinians had scarce recovered from
the ravages of the plague of 1743. This second blow has completely
broken their spirit, and obliged them to relinquish the hope of ever
seeing their city rebuilt; the King of Naples having ordered that none
of the houses in the Crescent shall be roofed, until they are raised to
their former height. The inhabitants have remonstrated, by saying, that
they cannot bear the expence; but his Majesty is unwilling that they
should lose so beautiful an ornament.
Even Scylla and Charybdis have been almost subdued by the repeated
convulsions of this part of the earth, and by the violence of the
current, which is continually increasing the breadth of the Straits. If
proper allowance be made for these circumstances, we shall acquit the
ancients of any exaggeration, notwithstanding the very dreadful colours
in which they have painted this passage. It is formed by a low
peninsula, called Cape Pelorus, stretching to the eastward on the
Sicilian side, immediately within which lies the famous whirlpool of
Charybdis, and by the Rocks of Scylla, which a few miles below on the
Calabrian shore, project towards the west. The current runs with
surprising force from one to the other alternately in the direction of
the tide, and the tides themselves are very irregular. Thus, vessels by
shunning the one were in the utmost danger of being swallowed up by the
other.
At present, in moderate weather, when the tide is either at ebb or
flood, boats pass all over the whirlpool, but, in general, it is like
the meeting of two contending currents, with a number of eddies all
around. And, even now, there is scarcely a winter in which there are not
some wrecks.
At the time we passed the strait, the weather was as favourable as we
could wish, and yet, in spite of a strong breeze and the current, which
hurried us on with surprising velocity, the ship's head was suddenly
whirled round near three points; but the wind blowing fresh, in a few
seconds she dashed through the eddy that had caught her--for, to avoid
Scylla, and secure Messina, we had kept pretty close to Charybdis.
The entrance of these straits is, I am convinced, not less than three
miles wide, but I have never heard it allowed to be so much. After
passing Charybdis, the sea immediately widens, but Cape Pelorus and
Scylla in a manner crossing each other, the passage cannot be perceived
until you are on the point of entering it, which gave rise to a
tradition, that Hannibal, fancying himself betrayed and land-locked, put
his Pilot Pelorus to death; but that, as an atonement, he afterwards
erected a statue to his memory, from which the Cape took its name. This
action, however, is so contradictory to the history, experience, and
disposition of Hannibal, that nobody could ever have raised such a
story, but one who had never read the life of this magnanimous hero.
Few countries have experienced more revolutions than Sicily; the
richness of the soil and the temperature of the climate, added to its
commanding situation, having always made it an object of attraction.
After the dark ages it was successively possessed by the Greeks, and the
Carthaginians, the Romans, the Goths, and the Saracens.
In later times, it has generally shared the fate of Naples; but by the
Treaty of Utrecht, it was given to the Duke of Savoy, who, however, was
soon obliged, by the Quadruple Alliance, to return it to the Emperor, in
exchange for Sardinia. The Spaniards seized this opportunity of renewing
their claims, and sent a large armament, which had subdued the whole
island, except Messina, which they were besieging, when Sir George Byng
appeared with the British fleet.
[Sidenote: April 11th, 1718.]
The Spanish squadron, apprized of his approach, passed through the
straits, and stood to the southward; Sir George pursued and brought it
to action. Our fleet consisted of twenty-one sail of the line, carrying
1400 guns, the enemy's of eighteen, carrying 992 guns. Both sides fought
bravely, but our superior numbers soon prevailed. Don Antonio de
Casteneta, the Spanish Admiral, was taken prisoner, and only seven of
his two-deckers escaped, of which the greater part were afterwards burnt
at Messina, and one was lost in the Gulf of Tarento. Many of the
frigates were also taken.
Six line of battle ships, and as many smaller men of war, which
separated from the main body of the Spanish fleet, at the commencement
of the action, were pursued by Commodore Walton, and every one taken or
burnt; on which occasion he wrote this famous letter. "We have taken or
destroyed all the enemy's ships and vessels on the coast, as per
margin."
After this victory, Sir George Byng convoyed an army from the continent,
and besieged the citadel of Messina, which the enemy's troops had now
taken; and when the place was nearly reduced, a dispute arising among
the allies on shore, about the Spanish men of war in the mole, Sir
George, knowing that it is more our interest to reduce the navy of the
rest of Europe, than to increase our own, caused batteries to be erected
for shells and red-hot shot, and ended the contention, by destroying the
cause.