Indians of California. They are in general the largest and best limbed
men I ever saw, and some of them hairy, and very strong. The women are
straight and tall, and in the neighbourhood of the Spaniards go decently
cloathed; but in the remote parts of the island they go quite naked.
They are said to be man-eaters, and to have no settled way of worship,
but every one pays a kind of adoration to they know not what. The island
is plentifully supplied with cattle, and might be made the garden of the
world, if the Spaniards were not as idle as the Indians; but as nature
spontaneously produces sufficient for sustenance, they avail themselves
but little of cultivation. Of all the works of art for which the Indians
are remarkable, the paroas, or boats, of this island are certainly the
most wonderful, as they exceed in swift sailing every other vessel yet
seen throughout the world. We were assured upon the best authority, that
they will sail 20 leagues an hour; and the Captain of the Spanish guard
said, he would lose his head if they did not perform it.
On Tuesday, March 21, 1710, we were under sail, and steered away W. by
S. with moderate gales from the N. N. E. which continued so for some
weeks; but about the middle of April the blowing weather came on, and
continued till the 27th of that month, during which time most of our
main-shrouds, several of our stays, most of our running-ropes, and the
mizzen-gears, gave way, so that the yard came by the board, and by its
fall wounded the first Lieutenant, so that we feared he never would have
recovered. Most of our sails too were split; but, being supplied with
new shrouds by Captain Rogers, and with other ropes by Captain Courtney,
I bent new sails; but found the ship very leaky. The Duke and Dutchess
too suffered much by the tempestuous weather, and the Batchelor split
her sails; but being otherwise stoutly built and rigged, nothing but
running against a rock could hurt her. I had no conception of meeting
with such boisterous weather so near the Line, which proved as bad as
that we encountered in surrounding Cape Horn, with this difference only,
that the one was intensely cold, and the other intolerably hot. And
being now crossed by variable winds, sometimes lying by, sometimes
scudding before the wind, and unable to pursue our direct course, our
provisions began to fail, and on board of us rats rose to a very high
price. The ships were besides leaky, and our men began to sicken with
excessive labour and hard living. A general council was therefore called
to consider what was best to be done in our present condition, when it
was agreed to make the island of Talao, that of Ternate, or, if neither
of them could be reached, then to put into some part of Mindanao.
On Tuesday, May the 2d, we observed a ring about the sun, and were
apprehensive of more bad weather. In the night we passed by Talao
without seeing it; and Captain Dampier, who had been twice in these seas
before, gave out, that, if we could not reach Ternate, it would be
impossible for us to get refreshment on the coast of New Guinea, which
proved true; yet it was with the greatest difficulty the men could be
prevailed upon to submit to short allowance.
Monday the 8th, having had tempestuous weather, we perceived that a
strong current had set in to the eastward; and to our astonishment we
found the land in sight to be Cape Noba, a promontory at the east end of
Gilolo, bearing S. S. E. distant 15 leagues. Perceiving now that we
could not get to the island of Ternate, nor to that of Mindanao, we
resolved to make the best of our way through the straits of Gilolo: but,
notwithstanding our utmost efforts, we continued sailing among a cluster
of islands, most of them uninhabited, but all capable of producing
spices, during the whole month of May, without being able to avail
ourselves of any of their refreshments. On the 20th of May we came in
sight of the island of Ceram, as we then thought, but afterwards found
it to be the island of Bouro.
On the 25th, we came in sight of a low island right-a-head of us, and
about noon observed an opening, which, when we came near, we found to be
a passage between two little islands that almost joined. They were very
full of green trees, and by the sea-side we beheld many groves of
cocoa-nut, plantain, and other fruit-trees, that exhibited a very
pleasant appearance.
In a capacious bay we likewise took notice of a little town, and saw
several inhabitants passing and re-passing along the shore. We sent in
our boats for provisions and pilots, and the Duke and myself turned up
towards the village, but on sounding found no ground. The natives
informed us, there was a bank opposite a certain land-mark, on which we
might anchor. Abundance of people came off with Indian wheat,
cocoa-nuts, yams, potatoes, papas, poultry, and several beautiful birds,
which they exchanged for knives, scissars, and other toys, being very
civil, and to all appearance honest. They are Mahometans, of a middle
stature, and tawney; but the women are fairer than the men, having very
long, lank, black hair; their mouths, lips, and noses remarkably small.
The women were decently covered; but the men in general were naked.
These islands were named Camhava and Wanshut; but, not answering our
purpose, we agreed to steer for Bonton, where we arrived on Monday the
29th of May; and, the same day, Captain Dampier, Mr. Connely, and Mr.
Vanbrugh, went with a present to the King of Bonton, at the same time
requesting him to supply us with provisions, and to send us a pilot to
carry us to Batavia.
On the 30th, a paroa came from the King with one of his nobles on board,
and a pilot to carry us into harbour. He put on an air of importance,
and asked, How we dared to come to an anchor there, without leave from
the Great King of Bonton? However, he brought each Commander a piece of
his country-cloth, a bottle of arrack, some rice in baskets, as a
present from the King; as also a letter from the officers we had sent on
shore, giving an account, that they had been well received, and that the
town where the King resides was large, walled, fortified, and defended
after the European manner with a number of heavy cannon. Another present
was returned, and five guns fired by every ship at the messenger’s going
off; at which he seemed very well pleased. Our people trafficked with
the natives for poultry, maize, pompions, papas, lemons, Guinea corn,
&c. and gave them in exchange knives, scissars, old cloaths, and old
nails. The people were civil; but our officers making a longer stay than
they intended, we began to suspect that the moors had detained them; for
they are very treacherous. However, we heard from them every day; and at
length the Dutchess’s pinnace came down with Lieutenant Connely, who
told us, they had purchased four last of rice, which cost 600 dollars;
and that Mr. Vanbrugh was detained for the payment of the money. The
next morning it came, and was equally distributed among the four ships,
some great men coming to deliver it, and receive the money.--The town of
Bonton is very populous, and by it runs a fine river, but is barred so
that ships of burden cannot approach it. About 50 islands are tributary
to this King, who gives audience in a chair of state covered with
scarlet-cloth, and is always attended by a guard of nine men, armed,
after the European manner, with muskets and scymitars. He has, besides,
four or five slaves, who sit at his feet, and are ready whenever he
commands to do the most servile offices. The petty Princes and great men
sit on his left hand, and the strangers stand before him.
Wednesday, June the 7th, all the provisions and necessaries which this
town could supply being brought on board, and the officers who went to
wait upon the King, returned, the signal was given to weigh, and at four
in the afternoon we set sail without a pilot, there being none to be had
on this island. Captain Dampier pretended to be acquainted with the
passage, and mentions the same in his book, but now he remembered
nothing of it but the story.
On Friday the 9th, we came in sight of Solayo, lying close to the island
of Celebes, and inhabited by Malayans, who are tributaries to the Dutch.
Between the south-end of Celebes and the island of Solayo, are three
small low islands, and the best passage is between that which lies next
to Solayo, and a little one lying to the northward of it. It is very
dangerous going to the southward of Solayo, the Dutch never daring to
attempt it.
On the 10th we made prize of a country paroa, and brought the master on
board the Dutchess. He was a Malayan belonging to Macassar, bound
thither, came last from Bonton, and undertook to pilot us to Batavia for
a good reward, provided we would promise to keep the matter a secret
from the Dutch, to both which conditions we very readily agreed; and the
man performed what he undertook with great skill and fidelity. We passed
through the straits of Salango, having always from five to seven fathom
water in our passage; then steering to the westward, our pilot’s boat
attended us till we were through the last strait, and then bore away
towards Macassar.
On Tuesday the 20th of June, 1720, according to our reckoning, we came
to an anchor in Batavia road; but with the Dutch it was Wednesday, June
21; for we had lost 18 hours in going round to the westward, and they
had gained six in sailing to the eastward, which made a whole day
difference between our account and theirs. The reason is, that a ship
sailing to the westward, and so following the course of the sun, makes
every day something longer than in any fixed station it would be. Thus
in every 15 degrees she removes to the westward from the meridian from
whence she first set out, she gains an hour; in 90 degrees, six hours;
and in 360, which compose the whole circumference of the globe, she will
find a whole day short in her reckoning, according to the account of the
place she arrives at. The contrary happens to the ship that sails
eastward; for, as she advances against the course of the sun, she loses
so much of every day, which is thereby shortened, and becomes less than
24 hours, by consequence losing an hour in every 15 degrees, and
consequently will be a day before the account of the place she arrives
at. By this it appears, that the ship which sails round the world
westward, loses a whole day, and that which performs the same voyage
eastward gains a day. So we having made the greater part of the
circumference, and the Dutch at Batavia the other part the contrary way,
our loss and their gain made up the twenty-four hours; and thus we came
to differ a day.
When we came to an anchor, the Dutchess fired thirteen guns to salute
the Dutch flag; but it being night, the Commandant did not then answer;
but in the morning sent his boat to make an apology, and then fired gun
for gun with every ship. Soon after this friendly salute taken on both
sides, the Commanders went on shore; and, after waiting upon the
Shebander, were introduced to the Governor, who received us with
civility, examined our commission, and enquired much concerning the
success of our voyage; but, not being King’s ships, would not permit us
to heave down in the States dock at Orerest, but gave us leave to careen
at the island of Hern, which is at no great distance from the other, and
allowed us some Malayan caulkers to assist in stopping our leaks.
As the Marquis was in the worst condition, she was ordered to be laid
down first; but upon examination she was judged unfit to proceed upon
the voyage; and therefore was unladen and put up to sale. We then hove
down the Duke and Dutchess, and found their sheathing much worm eaten;
but otherwise not much damaged: the Batchelor wanted no repairs but in
her rigging. The weather was extremely hot during our stay, at this
city; many of our men and officers fell sick; and I was among the
number. The master of the Duke, the gunner of the Dutchess, and several
of the common men, fell a sacrifice to this unfriendly climate. One
Read, a young man belonging to the Dutchess, venturing to swim, had both
his legs snapt off by a shark, which at the second bite, before we could
get him on board, cut him in two in the middle, and put an end to his
misery. During our stay, though we had the run of the markets, we found
it very difficult to procure salt provisions to lay in a stock to serve
us till we should arrive at the Cape of Good Hope, and therefore were
obliged to purchase live cattle, and to kill and pickle them ourselves.
All manner of traffic, except for provisions, was prohibited with the
natives or inhabitants of the city, upon the severest penalties, to
avoid every occasion of dispute with the East-India Companies of both
nations: and, having settled all our affairs in a very amicable manner,
new rigged our ships, and disposed of the men belonging to the Marquis
among the other ships, we began on the 15th of September to prepare for
sailing, when I was appointed second Captain in the Dutchess, and Mr.
Ballot, master; Capt. Pope, first Lieutenant of the Duke, and Mr.
Selkirk, master; Capt. Dampier, second Captain in the Batchelor, and Mr.
Knolman, master.
On the 20th we repaired on board; but before we were ready to sail, it
was the 14th of October; when, about six in the morning, we weighed
anchor; but in the afternoon the sea-breeze took us, and we were forced
to return.
On the 19th we made sail with a fresh breeze, and at two in the
afternoon came to an anchor off Java-head, when two English gentlemen
came off to us, to demand the release of a man who had concealed
himself, unknown to the officers, on board the Batchelor, and who was
given up without opposition. In the mean time, while the gentlemen were
in conversation with the officers, a party from the ship went off with
their boat to buy fowls, for which they gave in exchange knives, toys,
and other trifles, which the natives value more than money.
On the 23d the gentlemen took their leave; and the party who went off to
truck for fowls having reported that there were buffaloes in abundance
to be had for shooting, another party were sent off to bring some on
board; but they returned without success. They came in sight of whole
herds, but so exceeding wild, that the moment they saw the appearance of
a man, they all took the alarm, and fled to the woods with so much
swiftness that it was impossible to come within musket-shot of them. One
of the party, who had ventured to follow them into the woods, was
surprized by a tyger, who was within less than a hundred yards of him
before he thought proper to make his retreat; and was pursued by the
creature so close, that, had he not reached the water, he must have been
devoured. His companions fired more than twenty shot at the tyger before
he went off, which he did at last, though sorely wounded.
We staid here till the 26th, when we made sail, and about noon Java-head
bore E. by N. distant about seven leagues. From hence to the Cape of
Good Hope we met with nothing remarkable; and, on the 30th of December,
came to an anchor in Table-bay, in seven fathom water. We saluted the
fort with nine guns; and they returned seven. As soon as the ships were
moored, the Captains and principal officers went ashore to pay their
compliments to the Governor, by whom they were honourably received. The
place and people have been so often described already, that we shall not
disgust the reader with useless repetitions.
During our stay here, we employed the time in victualling, watering, and
refitting our ships, for the remaining part of our voyage home. The
Duke, commanded by Captain Rogers, had been leaky ever since her
departure from California; and, notwithstanding all that could be done
both at Batavia and this place, it could not be stopped; but what was
remarkable, in a few days after we left the Cape, it stopt of itself.
Here we had an opportunity of writing to our owners, by means of an
East-India ship just ready to sail when we arrived. In the letter we
acquainted them with our having made prize of a small Manilla ship, and
of our having her in our possession; and also, that we intended to take
the advantage of returning home in company with the Dutch East-India
fleet, who were hourly expected, which would occasion us to tarry till
the latter end of March, when it was imagined they would be ready to
sail.
On February the 22d, the Dutch fleet arrived, being in all 12 sail. We
saluted the Admiral at his coming with seven guns, as did likewise the
fort. There were at this time in the harbour 17 Dutch ships, and six
English. The town was crowded, and many of our men were ill. Mr.
Vanbrugh, the owners chief agent, died, as did Mr. Appleby, mate of the
Duke, and several others. We began to be impatient; and found it
necessary to begin to furnish ourselves with provisions as early as
possible, as every thing began to increase in price as the town began to
fill. The Batavia fleet was soon followed by four ships from Ceylon. Six
came from that island; but near Madagascar met with such a violent
storm, that some were forced to cut away their main-masts, and throw
over some of their lee-guns, having much water at the same time in their
holds. The four came into the Cape much damaged, and believed the other
two had foundered at sea. Several English Indiamen arrived also in the
road; as also a Portuguese ship from Rio de Janeiro on the coast of
Brazil, bound for Mezambique, to take in slaves.
At length, on April the 6th, all the homeward bound ships being ready to
sail, we weighed in the morning, and sailed with a small breeze of wind
at E. S. E. and by noon came to an anchor at Pengun Island, the east end
of the island bearing south-westerly. At three we sailed again, being in
all 25 sail of English and Dutch, all good ships, under the command of
Admiral Peter de Vos. At six the Cape of Good Hope bore S. by. W. half
W. distant about seven leagues; and thus, having taken our departure, we
proceeded on our voyage April the 23d, which being St. George’s day, and
the anniversary of her Majesty of Great Britain, the Duke and Dutchess
saluted each other with drums, trumpets, and other formalities, in
honour of the day; and in the evening the respective Captains gave an
entertainment, of which all the officers on board partook.
August 3, 1711, we made the island of St. Helena, in lat. 16 deg. S. It
lies 1000 miles at least from any land, and is not more than 10 leagues
in length, and about eight in breadth, surrounded with rocks, and
elevated above the sea by towering mountains, that look at a distance
like lofty buildings rising to the clouds. These mountains are covered
with wholesome herbs and plants; and the vallies are so fruitful, that
they yield an increase of whatever is sown in them an hundred-fold. The
Portuguese first discovered this little spot accidentally, as they were
ranging along the coast of Africa, in order to find their way to the
East-Indies. It was then uninhabited; and, according to their custom,
they set some live goats and swine on shore, which multiplied to that
degree, that ever since there have been enough to supply the ships that
touch at that island with seasonable refreshment. The Dutch first
inhabited, and afterwards abandoned it, and removed their settlement to
the Cape of Good Hope. The English then took possession of it; when the
Dutch, who did not think it worth keeping before, returned, fell upon
the English, and drove them out. The Dutch in their turn were expelled
by the English, who have now been long in possession, have erected a
very strong fort for their security, and built a town near the little
bay, where ships generally anchor in their way to and from the East
Indies. It is of infinite use in relieving the sailors from that
dreadful distemper the sea-scurvy; for, as it naturally produces lemons,
oranges, and other fruits, and as greens and roots are planted in
abundance, those who are languishing under the last stage of the scurvy
are frequently recovered by the use of those refreshments without any
other physic. It would be delightful living in this island, were it
larger, or more frequented; but the confinement in so small a place in
the middle of a vast ocean so remote from all communication with the
rest of the world, renders the residence there so lonely, that it has
rather the appearance of living in exile than in a land of freedom. And
indeed, what makes it still more uncomfortable, our own ships find so
much better entertainment at the Cape than can be expected in this
little spot, that many of them store themselves there so plentifully,
and recover their sick men so effectually, as not to be under the
necessity of touching at St. Helena, whereby not only the residence of
the inhabitants is rendered more dull, but their means of subsistence is
very much restrained; for as they have nothing to depend upon but their
traffic with the ships that call to refresh, every one that passes by
without touching is a diminution of their profits: so that in fact the
people have little or no encouragement to continue there, and many of
them make heavy complaints. Indeed, the surrounding sea, that abounding
in fish is a considerable help, and the fertility of the soil, which is
sure to reward the pains of the cultivator, exempt them from famine; but
for cloaths and all other conveniences, their dependance is upon
strangers.
On the first of May we took our departure from this island, and on the
7th made the island of Ascension, which is still uninhabited. As the
springs, which were discovered by Dampier, lie remote from the shore,
very few ships attempt to water, or indeed stop at Ascension; some
indeed, who are in want of fresh provisions, fish here for turtle, of
which there are great plenty all round the coasts.
Nothing remarkable happened in the course of our voyage till May the
27th, when two of our Dutch sailors died, and were decently buried
according to the custom of the sea.
About this time all the flag-ships struck their flags, the Admiral
hoisted a broad pendant, and all the other ships did the same. This was
done with a view to deceive the enemy, that in case any cruisers should
come in sight, they might take us for a squadron of Dutch men-of-war.
On the 12th, a mutiny happened among our men; and two Dutchmen who were
the ringleaders were whipped and put in irons. For some days we had but
little wind, being in the calm latitude, which we reckon from 22 deg. to
28 deg. N.
June the 13th, the Dutch Admiral made the signal for each ship to keep
the Line, and we blacked our ship to make her look the more like a
Dutchman.
On the 15th, in the morning, the Admiral made the signal for all the
English Commanders, and some of the Dutch skippers, to come on board
him, where we were sumptuously entertained at dinner, and the frank
humour of the Dutchmen made the company jolly before we parted.
June 23, a Dutch ship being in distress fired several guns; upon which
the whole fleet shortened sail. Her damage being soon repaired, the
signal was given to continue our course, and we took the Batchelor in
tow, being a heavy sailor, and forced to croud the canvas to keep
company; but, it blowing hard the next day, we were forced to cast her
off.
On the 26th, the Batchelor’s pinnace had her back broke, by the ship’s
running over her; but the men that were in her were all miraculously
saved, by means of the hawser which they were carrying from our ship to
take her in tow. In the evening the King William Indiaman took her in
tow, and next morning cast her off.
On the 28th, being got into the latitude of 51 deg. N. we had thick
foggy weather, with the wind at south, which continued several days, and
all the while the Admiral kept firing two guns every hour, and each ship
in the fleet answered with one. This was done to keep the fleet
together, and it answered the purpose very well; for when the fog
dispersed, and the weather came clear, there was not one ship missing.
The Dutch convoy, however, took care afterwards to be well paid for his
waste of powder.