CHAPTER VII.

Chemistry and Physiological Aspects of Tea.

If the reader desires an example of imperfect and arrested

knowledge in some of the common affairs of life, let him collate

the statements of scientific experts concerning the physiological

effects upon mankind, of tea. He will then admit that "in a

multitude of counsellors there is confusion."

Without pretending to more than the rudiments of chemical or

physiological science, we shall attempt to examine the nature of

tea, and its effects upon the human system; taking as a basis for

our remarks Professor Jas. F. Johnston's Chemistry of Common

Life, from which work more recent writers draw most of their

inspiration.

Chemists find in manufacturing tea leaves three principal

constituents to which all the physiological effects of tea are

attributed. These are, (1) Theine, (2) Essential or Volatile

Oils, (3) Tannin.

Theine is present in the green leaf of tea, and is apparently

unchanged in the manufactured leaf and in the infusion or

beverage. We regard it as the one essential and the most valuable

element of all teas, physiologically considered. Strangely enough

theine is the one important constituent which is entirely

neglected by the tea-tester and the trader. In testing and

grading teas for purchase and sale, their appearance, odor and

taste, their color and body when "drawn," determine their

pecuniary value, without relation to their percentage of theine,

or its effects upon the tester.

Theine has been found in nature in but a few plants, as in tea,

in coffee, (then termed caffein), in Mat'e (Paraguay or Brazilian

tea), and in the Kola nut of Africa. A very similar principle,

having analogous properties, but containing more nitrogen, exists

in cocoa, (theobroma).

Theine, when isolated by heat from the tea leaf or infusions,

condenses in minute white needles or crystals, having no odor and

but a faintly bitter taste. In manufactured tea leaves, theine

constitutes from one to five percent. of their weight. According

to Professor Johnston, three or four grains per day of this

substance may be taken without injury by most persons; or such

quantity as would be contained in half and ounce of Chinese black

tea. Indian (Assam) tea and Ceylon tea, being stronger in theine,

would suffice in lesser quantity.

Theine is soluble in about 100 parts of hat water. It vaporizes

at 185 degrees C. or 365 degrees Fahr., hence it is not driven

off by continued boiling of tea infusion.

W. Dittmar found by experiment that prolonged steeping of tea

leaves up to ten minutes increased the proportion of theine in

the infusion. His results are as follows:

STEEPED 5 MINUTES.

Average of 8 samples Chinese tea:

Theine, per cent infusion--2.58 Tannin--3.06

Average of 6 samples Ceylon tea:

Theine--3.15 Tannin--5.87

Average 12 samples of Indian tea:

Theine--3.63 Tannin--6.77

STEEPED 10 MINUTES.

Theine, per cent infusion--2.79--Increase about 10 per cent

Tannin--3.78--Increase about 25 per cent

Average of 6 samples Ceylon tea:

Theine--3.29--Increase about 5 per cent Tannin--7.30--

Increase about 25 per cent

Average 12 samples of Indian tea:

Theine--3.73--Increase about 3 per cent Tannin--8.09--

Increase about 20 per cent

W. M. Green reported that in prolonging the steeping of tea from

10 to 20 minutes, he observed the formation of a tannate of theine,

which diminished the proportion of 1.30 per cent. of theine at

10 minutes to 1.16 per cent. after 20 minutes steeping, a loss of

about 10 percent., unless the latter salt so formed is proved to

yield up its theine constituent in the human stomach.

While theine is credited as the source of the most powerful and

useful properties of tea, and without which no plant would be

recognized as tea, yet some of the stimulating or exhilarating

influences of this plant are attributed to the volatile oils

which contribute so largely to the flavors and odors which

characterize tea.

These Essential or Volatile Oils of manufactured tea are said to

reside in the minute cells of the green leaf, but they are

greatly changed by manipulation, for they are not manifest to the

sense of taste or smell when expressed from the green leaf by

bruising, nor does the green leaf yield their aromatic flavors to

an infusion. Professor Johnston says that these precious oils are

artificially developed by manufacture. David Crole declares that

they are developed "to a certain extent during withering, and

also during the first stage of firing," which last process, if

carelessly conducted, "oxidises it (the oil) into resin."

Green tea, they first remove from the green leaf, imparts very

little flavor or scent to its infusion. In some Oolong Black

teas, and in some Ceylon Black teas, these oils are highly

developed and are very fragrant. In the black Souchongs and

Congous they have again been altered by treatment, but are no

less perceptible, and to many, are quite as agreeable. Although

constituting only one-half to one per cent. by weight of the

dried leaf, these oils are all-important to the trademan and to

the consumer.

These volatile oils are strongest in new teas, and are gradually

wasted by exposure to the atmosphere. Robert Fortune and other

travelers in China have stated that the Chinese will not use new

teas, but allow them to pass through a sort of "ripening"

process. Mr. Crole, speaking probably of the Indian teas with

which he was so familiar as a planter and chemist, says that

"tea should always be kept for a year before being drank. If the

infusion of freshly manufactured tea is drank, it causes violent

diarrhea; therefore it should be kept a year before it is

consumed, in order to let it mellow."

There is no doubt that the more impervious the package containing

tea is to the air, the more perfectly the finer qualities of the

tea are preserved. If there is a necessity for ripening or

mellowing by time, air should be rigidly excluded during that

period.

As to the keeping qualities of fine teas, in tight packages, we

know that they are not spoiled or injured by two years storage in

this climate.

Tannin is the third important element of the tea leaf, and it

varies greatly in percentage in different teas, and increases

with the age of the growing leaf. It is the cause of the rasping,

puckering, astringent effect upon the tongue and interior of the

mouth.

Tannin in tea has been a great bugbear with the ill-informed, bit

it is not nearly so deleterious as some careless or unscrupulous

writers would have us believe. In the first place there is a very

insignificant quantity of tannin in properly drawn teas, say in

those drawn for not longer than five or eight minutes. The tannin

present in a fine Black tea, steeped at a moderate temperature

for fifteen or twenty minutes will not harm a delicate stomach.

We take quite as much tannin in some fruits, and make no fuss

about it. Secondly, if a strong solution of tannin is taken into

the stomach and there comes in contact with albuminous or

gelatinous foods, it will expend its coagulating power upon such

substances. If there are no such substances present, it is the

expressed opinion of Mr. Crole (in a discussion upon the

chemistry of tea) that the tannin is converted into glucose and

other harmless products by the digestive processes. The wild

declarations that tea tannin "tans" the coating of the stomach

into a leathery condition is without foundation. Even where too

prolonged steeping has greatly increased the usual proportion of

tannin in tea infusion, milk, when added, neutralizes the

coagulating power of the tannin entirely or to such degree as to

render it harmless.

Professor Johnston thinks it quite probable that tannin takes

some part in the exhilarating effect of tea, and in that of the

betel-nut of the East. While the astringent influence of strong

tannin upon the bowels is regarded as unfavorable, hot tea

infusion has with many persons a contrary effect, stimulating the

peristaltic movements and antagonizing constipation.

If tannin is injurious, it should be observed that its proportion

in the leaf of green teas is very much larger than in Black teas.

An analysis by Mulder gave as the percentage of tannin in a Black

tea, 12.85 per cent., and in a green tea as 17.80 per cent. But

another analysis made by Y. Kazai, of the Imperial College of

Agriculture of Japan, made the per centage of tannin (gallo-

tannic acid) in a Green tea 10.64, and in a Black tea from the

same leaf 4.89. In the green leaf from which these teas were

derived he found 12.91 per cent. of tannin. This analysis

indicates also that a portion of the tannin disappears in

manufacturing Green tea, but a still larger, proportion is lost

or changed in the manufacture of Black tea.

Tannic acid taken into the human stomach in large quantity

produces, according to the U.S. Dispensatory, "only a mild

gastro-intestinal irritation."

Passing over the phosphoric acid, the gluten, and other

interesting constituents of the tea leaf, we proceed to the

observed effects of tea upon the human system.

Professor Johnston (before quoted) says that tea "exhilarates

without sensibly intoxicating. It excites the brain to increased

activity and produces wakefulness; hence its usefulness to hard

students, to those who have vigils to keep, and to persons who

labor much with the head. It soothes, on the contrary, and stills

the vascular system, (arteries, veins, capillaries, etc.), and

hence its use in inflammatory diseases, and as a cure for

headaches. Green tea, when strong, acts very powerfully on some

constitutions, producing nervous tremblings and other distressing

symptoms, acting as a narcotic, and in inferior animals even

producing paralysis. Its exciting effect upon the nerves makes it

useful in counteracting the effects of fermented liquors, and the

stupor sometimes induced by fever." And again, tea "lessens

waste," and diminishes the quantity of food required; "saves

food; stands to a certain extent in the place of food, while at

the same time it soothes the body and enlivens the mind."

Professor A. H. Church, of Oxon, England, in one of his often

quoted books on Food, says that "the infusion of tea has little

nutritive value, but it increases respiratory action, and excites

the brain to greater activity."

J.C. Hutchinson, M.D., (late President Medical Society of State

of New York), remarks that caffein, which he regards as identical

with theine, "is a gentle stimulant, without any injurious

reaction. It produces a restful feeling after exhausting efforts

of mind or body; it tranquilizes but does not disqualify for

labor, and therefore it is highly esteemed by persons of literary

pursuits. The excessive use of either tea or coffee will cause

wakefulness."

Dr. Kane, the Artic Explorer, speaking of the diet of his men

while sojourning in the Artic ice fields, said that his men

preferred coffee in the mornings, but at night, "tea soothed

them after a hard day's labor, and better enabled them to sleep."

Dr. Edward Smith, an English Physiologist, in an address before

the Royal Medical and Chirurgical Society, remarked that "tea

increased waste in the body, excited every function, and was well

fitted to cases where there was a superfluity of material in the

system;--but is injurious to the under-fed, or where there is

greater waste than supply." Dr. Smith recommended tea as a

preventive of heat-appoplexy, and in cases of suspended

animation, as from partial drowning.

We have selected these expressions of opinion from among a large

number of diverse character, for the purpose of illustrating the

uncertainty of knowledge concerning tea. To recapitulate:--

Professor Johnston finds that tea exhilarates; excites to

activity, produces wakefulness; yet it sooths, and it

tranquilizes the vascular system; it lessens waste and saves

food.

Dr. Smith found tea to increase waste, and to be injurious where

food is deficient; says tea excites every function,--which must

include the vascular system.

Dr. Hutchinson and Dr. Kane agree in the main.

What is the meaning of such radical differences of view? We think

they arise from three causes: First, tea affects different

persons very differently; secondly, the subject has not received

that careful study which it merits, and thirdly, there is a

careless confounding of at least three classes of effects, and a

confusion of terms in describing them.

We feel an unaffected diffidence in criticising and endeavoring

to improve upon the expressions of scientific men of honest

purpose, but we may be pardoned for pointing the way to a more

careful analysis of the merits and deficiencies of an article of

diet used by so many millions of people.

We find among the ordinary effects of tea-drinking:

Exhilaration:--an elevation of feeling, a lightness of mood or

spirits; a cheerfulness or even joy, which is compatible with

rest. This effect may be entirely independent of pure stimulus,

or of any disposition to mental or physical activity.

Stimulation:--a quickening or rousing to action of any faculty,

but as usually employed, an urging to action of bodily or mental

powers.

Sustaining:--enabling one to continue the expenditure of energy

with less sense of fatigue, at the time, or afterwards.

Refreshing:--relieving or reviving after exertion of any kind;

reanimating, invigorating; contributing to rest after fatigue.

Exciting:--in the sense of stimulation of brain and nervous

system to higher tension, but not necessarily attended by

disposition to labor or useful activity.

Now some tea-drinkers find in the beverage exhilaration only, a

lightness of mood, but they are disposed to rest and to revery,

to simply a passive meditation, or an indulgence of the

imagination.

Others are stimulated to mental or to physical activity, and are

sustained during such action. Afterwards they are refreshed when

fatigued, by the same beverage.

Others again are nervously excited and cannot rest or sleep; but

are too "nervous," as they express it, to set about any formal

task, especially of a mental character.

We have known tea-drinkers, too, who after a hard day's toil,

could drink two or three cups of strong tea and lie down to sleep

for the night as quietly as babes are expected to--but do not.

It must be evident that each person should observe the effects of

tea upon himself or herself and be governed accordingly. Tea is a

poison to some temperaments, and so are strawberries. Tea will

cure a headache or may produce one; will dispose to rest or

excite to action. We will sum then by conceding that all our

quoted authorities are right in their conclusions, if limited to

a limited class of tea-drinkers, and all are wrong, in a very

broad application.

Theine is the one constant agency in the effects of tea. It is

present in teas that are devoid of essential oils--so far as the

senses go--and it then still refreshes, stimulates, sustains,

and even exhilarates, by actual experiment.

The feeling of "comfort," attributed by some writers to the hot

water of the tea, may be also enjoyed by drinking cold tea, which

is no less refreshing in hot weather. The high-flavored essential

oils (strictly oils which evaporate at very moderate

temperatures) of Formosa teas seem to take part in the superior

exhilarating or almost intoxicating effects of the choice

varieties, but we have no certain proof of the fact; while the

more intoxicating and stimulating, as well as deleterious, green

teas possess very little, if any, of these pleasant oils.

It seems to be an authodox opinion among physiologists that tea

contributes nothing towards support of the human system; that it

only rouses it into action, an effect which should, consistently,

be followed by corresponding reaction and depression, which

plainly is not the case. This hypothesis leaves the enquiring

layman in a dilemma. Tea must either enable the system to draw

more heavily or more economically upon the resources afforded by

recognized food, or it is itself nutriment. Otherwise, an

established principle of physics--that there can be no

expenditure of energy without correlative cost--would be

subverted. As tea is admitted upon experience to be most useful,

and most craved by mankind, where the supply of food is

insufficient; and as it is known to refresh and sustain in large

degree in the absence of any food whatever, there is fair ground

for the opinion, however heterodox, that tea directly affords

nutriment to the human organism, and, possibly, to the brain and

nerves in particular, as with phosphoric acid.

Animal gelatine has been placed in the same class with tea by

Liebig, Dr. John W. Draper, and others, and it is asserted that

it conserves waste without itself entering into the substance of

human tissue. It is an accepted physiological law that nothing

taken as food or drink can support expenditure of human energy in

sensible motion, in heat, or in the nervous waste of mental or

emotional exercise without first being built up into living

tissue; the breaking down or chemical decomposition of which

tissue, and subsequent oxidation of less complex compounds or

their constituents, is the direct source of bodily energy of

every description. This, at least, is our reading of modern

authorities, like Foster. If tea and gelatine, and possibly

alcohol, are to form exceptions to the law, the law no longer

stands. But it would seem more reasonable to amend the hypothesis

concerning exceptions, and bring them into line by admitting that

they are nutritious in a manner not yet ascertained. All

physiological laws are provisional, good until proved

insufficient, and then to be amended in the light of accumulating

facts.

Tea Leaves · 第 6 / 11 章