In Upper Canada, along the St. Lawrence and Lake Ontario, the

Mississaguas are the leading tribe. Those of Kingston and Gananoqui,

only 82 in number, are described as worthless and depraved; but such as

dwell on the Bay of Quinté and Rice Lake, amounting respectively to 143

and 317, have been converted to Christianity, and are much improved. On

the Bay are also 319 Mohawks, many of whom have applied themselves to

agriculture, and even adopted in some degree the European dress, though

mixed in a grotesque manner with their native attire. On the river

Credit, which falls into the western part of Ontario, are 180 of the

same nation, who have been greatly civilized by their conversion. Around

Lake Simcoe and its vicinity, about 550 Chippeways reside under their

chief, Yellow-head. These also have expressed a strong desire for

instruction and the knowledge of religion, but have not yet experienced

those benefits in an equal degree. The banks of the Grand River, which

falls into Lake Erie, to the extent of six miles on each side, were, by

a proclamation of General Haldimand, set apart for the Mohawks and Six

Nations, who occupy it to the amount of about 2,000. Some part of these

lands has been sold with the consent of government, and the proceeds

lodged in the British funds, yielding an annual revenue of 1,500_l._,

which is distributed among them in goods. They still hold 260,000 acres

of an excellent soil, over which they have spread themselves in small

villages, and many of them attempt the simpler modes of farming. Farther

west are the Munseys on the Thames, 445 in number, and 309 Hurons,

connected with the French settlement on the Detroit, and converts to the

Catholic form of worship.

[Illustration: _Hallowell, Bay of Quinté._]

[Illustration: _Scene in the Bay of Quinté._]

With the last exception, all the tribes in Upper Canada, till within

these few years, remained in their primitive state of rudeness and

ignorance. They are now, however, willing converts to the Christian

faith, receiving instruction in reading and writing. Their morals are

greatly improved; and, in short, the way is paved for their adopting

generally the habits of civilized life. This good work has been almost

entirely accomplished by teachers from the United States, belonging to

the “Canada Conference Missionary Society,” auxiliary to that of the

Methodist Church of New York. The Indians have always shown themselves

desirous to be instructed. In 1827, the tribes, when receiving presents

at the remote station of Drummond Island, intimated to the agent that

there was at Michillimakinac a school or place where the natives were

taught to live as the whites do, “to mark their thoughts on paper, and

to think the news from books (read and write).” It was in their power to

send their children thither “to get sense;” but not being partial to the

Big Knives, and hearing that their great father at York was teaching

their brethren to “cut up the ground, and be beloved of the Great

Spirit,” they would rather be instructed by him. In the same year the

Chippeways at Gwillimburg, through their chief, Yellow-head, delivered

successive strings of wampum, importing that they wished to be settled

together, to pursue agriculture, and “to worship that God which is known

to the whites in the good book.”

The work of conversion and civilization was already proceeding, through

the exertions of the New York missionaries. Their first success was on

the River Credit, in the Home district, where they were greatly aided by

Mr. Peter Jones, alias Kakkewaquonaby, the son of a Welsh father by an

Indian mother, and thoroughly acquainted with their customs and

language. They formed themselves into a village, where Sir Peregrine

Maitland built for them twenty houses; they added fifteen for

themselves, with a mill; and the Methodist Society aided them in

erecting a chapel, schoolhouse, and workshop. They now renounced the

“firewaters” (spirits), the effects of which had been so pernicious;

and, without giving up hunting, combined with it the culture of the

ground and the rearing of cattle. According to the report of the Rev.

Mr. Magrath, they had, in March 1828, brought thirty-five acres into

cultivation, and possessed nine yoke of oxen, twelve cows, and six

horses. The adults were taught to get by heart the most essential

doctrines of religion; but for the children of both sexes schools were

established, attended by thirty-five boys and thirty-six girls. The

Mississaguas, near Belleville, soon followed the example of their

brethren; and, with the aid of the Society, formed a village on Grape

Island, in the Bay of Quinté. Finding this position too limited, they

applied for more land, and were allowed to select the requisite number

of vacant lots in the Midland district. This salutary process was soon

afterwards extended to the Mississaguas on the borders of Rice Lake and

of Mud Lake, northward of Cobourg. They occupied, by right, the islands

on the former; and, on the petition of their teachers, were allowed

besides 1,200 acres of waste land. Improvement was next extended to the

Chippeways, near Lake Simcoe. They were entitled to three islands; but

Sir John Colborne thought it more for their benefit that they should be

located on its north-western shore, and on the road to Lake Huron. In

these objects about 3,000_l._ were spent, chiefly saved out of the

annual presents. Another establishment has been formed at Munseytown, on

the river Thames; and it appears that much has been done among the Six

Nations, particularly the Mohawks, on the Grand River. In short, there

seems no room to doubt that the whole of this savage race will soon be

brought within the pale of Christianity and civilization.

Vehement objections have been taken against the religious body by whom

this change has been effected. They are accused of propagating the

political creed of their own country, accompanied with sentiments of

hostility to the established church. It does not appear, however, that

any disloyal or turbulent proceedings have resulted; and when they are

doing so much good, it would certainly be very inexpedient to obstruct

their operations, until some efficient substitute shall be found. Sir

John Colborne expressly says, “that the established clergy have not

effected any Indian conversions;” and the worthy bishop of Quebec

candidly observes that, whoever were the instruments, the effect must be

a source of satisfaction; and that the hand of God seems to be visible

in it. The Society allow 40_l._ or 50_l._ a-year to their missionaries,

and maintain ten schools, attended by 251 pupils.

The Indians, as already observed, have certain fixed stations, to which

they resort for the purpose of receiving their annual presents. These

are, in Lower Canada, Quebec, to which, in 1827, there came 652; St.

Francis, 541; Caughnawaga, 967; Lake of Two Mountains, 887; and St.

Regis, 348. In Upper Canada, they are, Kingston, 859; York, 781; Fort

George (Niagara), 1857; Amherstburg, 5906; and Drummond Island, 3516.

The expense became very large during the war, when their services were

so valuable. Between 1813 and 1816, it averaged 150,000_l._ a-year.

Since that time it has been reduced to about 16,000_l._, which, with

4,400_l._ for management, raises the Indian department to 20,400_l._

a-year. This, in Upper Canada, is estimated at 18_s._ 9_d._ to each

individual, for which slender remuneration some travel 500 miles.

References have been made from the Colonial Office, to ascertain whether

this sum might not be still further reduced, and paid in money, by which

the estimates could be formed with greater precision. To the first

point, it has been replied by the governors, that the donation is one to

which we are bound by the faith of treaties, made in return for

important services; and its discontinuance would excite the deepest

indignation, and provoke an hostility which might be attended with

disastrous consequences. Probably like all rude nations, the Indians,

instead of viewing these gifts as in any degree humiliating, pride

themselves upon them as testimonies of respect, perhaps even as a

species of tribute. As to the payment in money, it was deprecated in the

strongest terms by almost all the chiefs, and those interested in their

welfare; because the immediate consequence would be its conversion into

spirits, thereby causing a serious injury instead of a benefit. The

principle articles presented to them in 1832, were 35,700 yards of

different kinds of cloth, the prime cost varying from 1_s._ 1_d._ to

3_s._ 4_d._; 4,200 yards of linen; 33,800 yards of cotton and calico,

7_d._ to 1_s._ 7_d._; 84,500 yards of gartering, of scarlet, green, and

fancy colours, ¾_d._ per yard; 20,000 yards of blanketing, 1_s._ 11_d._

to 5_s._ 9_d._; 9,260 pairs of combs; 6,700 shoemaker’s awls; 8,740

butcher’s knives; 870 kettles; 18,160 sewing needles; 240 guns, 12_s._

9_d._ to 30_s._; 16,200 lbs. of lead ball; 46,300 lbs. of shot; 20,000

flints; 3,450 lbs. of carrot tobacco, 17_l._ 10_s._ per cwt.

[Illustration: _St. Regis, Indian Village._

(St. Lawrence.)]

Since the diffusion of civilization, many of the Indians have consented,

and even desired, to exchange these presents for houses, implements of

agriculture, and other useful objects. A considerable number have even

begun to wish for money, which happily they no longer abuse as formerly,

but rather find the most convenient instrument in procuring whatever

they may happen to want. Asance, a chief, said that at York, “he found

it convenient when hungry to be able to put his hand into his pocket,

and find something jingling there for which he could get bread.” It may

be observed, that the Indians in Upper Canada are entitled to the annual

pay of 5,107_l._ current (4,426_l._ sterling), for land ceded by them to

government, who give the value in goods. As the crown obtained in

exchange nearly 5,000,000 acres of fertile land, we do think that this

slender annuity ought not to exhaust the kindness of the British

ministry towards this unfortunate race. They receive also 1,267_l._

sterling for property sold to private individuals, the greater part of

which is lodged in the funds. This sum is paid in money to the chiefs.

The Indians, as formerly observed, retain in general their original

fashion of dress; but instead of composing it entirely of the skins of

wild animals, they have adopted, as more commodious, materials of

English manufacture. For the outer covering or great coat, a blanket is

decidedly preferred; the shirt beneath is chiefly of calico or printed

cotton; the leggings and pouches of common cloths. The gartering, of

gaudy colours, serves for binding and ornamental borders. The moccasins

only, an article so extremely suited to their habits, cannot be composed

of any better material than their own deer-skin. When, however, any

particular piece of finery strikes their fancy, they eagerly seek to

procure it, and combine it, often fantastically, with their old

habiliments. The vicinity of Europeans, where it does not induce the

destructive habit of intoxication, affords them various means for

bettering their condition. A ready sale for venison, wild ducks, and

other feathered game, and for the fish which they spear, is found among

settlers who have themselves little leisure for angling or the chase.

The skins and furs also of the animals caught by them are readily bought

by the merchants. The women make baskets, trays, and other utensils, of

birch-bark, and sometimes of the inner rind of the bass-wood and white

ash, which, when ornamented with porcupine quills, dyed in beautiful

colours, form elegant articles of furniture. Their moccasins, similarly

adorned, are often purchased by Europeans for winter use. They cannot,

however, be depended upon for making or procuring any article to order.

They produce and bring their commodities to market when it suits their

own convenience; and they are disposed to drive a pretty hard bargain,

especially the females, on whom that task usually devolves. The

converted Indians are said to display a simple, fervent, and sincere

devotion. They pay a particular regard to the sanctity of the sabbath;

and while singing hymns on the evening of that day, their rich soft

voices, rising on the still air, are extremely sweet. This principle of

piety, having produced the valuable fruit of inducing them to renounce

the ruinous habit of intoxication, has made a most happy change in their

condition; and since the evils incident to the savage have thus been

removed, perhaps the admirer of the picturesque in human life may not

feel impatient for that thorough amalgamation with Europeans, which some

of their friends ardently desire. They may be willing that some trace

should still survive of the peculiar costume, aspect, and occupations of

this remarkable aboriginal race.

[Illustration: _Burial-Place of the Voyageurs._]

The means of religious instruction in Lower Canada have long existed on

a liberal scale. The great majority of the inhabitants, as formerly

observed, are French Roman Catholics. They support their clergy by a

contribution of a twenty-sixth part of the produce of their lands, which

does not, however, as has been sometimes represented, form a compulsory

assessment, since Protestant converts may discontinue payment. This

affords to upwards of 200 _vicaires_ and _curés_ an average income of

300_l._ per annum, which, in Canada, is very liberal. They are described

as respectable in character and attainments, very attentive to their

parishioners, and extremely beloved by them. They have been accused as

hostile to the diffusion of knowledge, yet no mention is made of any

opposition made by them to the late remarkable spread of elementary

schools. The bishop, who has under him two coadjutors and four

vicars-general, receives from government a stipend of 1,000_l._ a-year.

There are also monastic establishments, containing upwards of 300 monks

and nuns. The English church has assigned for its support a seventh of

all the lands unoccupied by the _habitans_, and formed into townships.

This proportion appears large, and has even been complained of as such,

yet it has not hitherto produced any great revenue. The clergy of this

church are at present forty in number, at the head of whom is the bishop

of Quebec, with a stipend of 1,000_l._ a-year. There are fourteen

Presbyterian ministers connected with the church of Scotland, partly

paid by government; and also twelve Methodists of the Wesleyan

persuasion.

Upper Canada, as already hinted, was long miserably destitute of the

means of religious instruction. In 1800, according to Mr. Talbot, there

were only three clergymen in the country; in 1819 they had increased to

ten; and in 1824 were still only sixteen. Since that time effective

measures have been taken to supply this great deficiency. There are now

forty-three clergymen belonging to the English established church; and

two archdeacons, at Toronto and Kingston, subject to the bishop of

Quebec, have each 300_l._ a-year. The remainder of the clergy received,

in 1835, an income of 6,784_l._ 11_s._ 8_d._, of which 5,484_l._ 18_s._

was defrayed from the proceeds of the ecclesiastical reserves, which, as

in Lower Canada, consist of one-seventh of the uncultivated lands; the

rest was paid out of the crown revenue. The Catholics have twenty-four

priests, of whom the bishop, bearing the title of Regiopolis, has

500_l._; the rest receive 1,000_l._ annually, divided among them, out of

the public purse. From the same fund were paid, in 1835, to the

ministers of the church of Scotland, 1,586_l._; to those of the

Presbyterian synod of Upper Canada 700_l._; 171_l._ was granted to the

fund for building Catholic churches; 550_l._ was given for the same

purpose to the Scottish church; and 550_l._ to the Wesleyan Methodists.

From this fund was also allowed 2,344_l._ 11_s._ 8_d._ for missionaries

of the Church of England. There are said to be also twenty-eight

Methodist and forty or fifty Baptist churches, which appear to be

supported by the congregations.

The means even of the most common education were long extremely

deficient in Canada. This want was equally felt in the lower province,

where the Catholic clergy, though diligent in their religious

ministrations, either opposed or did nothing to forward elementary

instruction. They particularly interfered to prevent attendance on the

schools organized in 1817, by what was termed the Royal Institution, as

being chiefly under the management of Church of England clergymen. In

1829, however, the legislature voted for this object 6,439_l._, which

was gradually increased to upwards of 20,000_l._ In that year the number

of scholars was 14,753, of whom only about a third paid fees. In 1835,

the number of free scholars had risen to 72,498, of those paying to

25,160; showing thus a wonderful increase both in the gross number and

in the proportion of those who defrayed their own charges. In 1836,

however, the vote of the House of Assembly for this patriotic purpose

was negatived by the Legislative Council, a step which seems not

unworthy of the severe animadversions made on it by the popular leaders.

The council stated that their motive was to induce the people to

contribute more towards the education of their families. This was

admitted to be desirable as an ultimate object; but it could not justify

the abrupt withdrawal of the means by which nearly 40,000 children were

educated, without allowing time or even legal authority to substitute

any other.

In Upper Canada, also, the government is making great exertions to

remove that cloud of ignorance in which the country was once involved. A

college at Toronto is supported on a liberal footing. There are also

grammar schools in every district, to the teachers of which 100_l._

yearly is allowed by the legislature. The scholars attending them amount

in all to about 350. The sum of 7,380_l._ also was granted in 1835 for

the support of common schools, estimated to amount to several hundreds,

and to educate about 20,000 children. In the same year, the legislature

voted 180_l._ and 90_l._ to the Mechanics’ Institutes at Toronto and

Kingston.

CHAP. V.

IMPRESSIONS OF CANADA ON TRAVELLERS.

* * * * *

Among the various books on Canada, there is none which seems to us

written with a more friendly, fair, and philanthropic spirit than that

of Mr. Hodgson, who was there in 1822. A great part of his large volume

is occupied with his rambles in the United States; but from that which

is strictly Canadian, we extract the following interesting letters:—

[Illustration: _Scene among the Thousand Isles._]

[Illustration: _Rapids, on the approach to the Village of Cedars._]

“Soon after I had finished my letter on board the steam-boat, we

stopped near the mouth of the Genessee river, to give us the

opportunity of seeing Rochester and its vicinity. Stages had

been previously sent for, in which we proceeded to Rochester,

nine miles distant. On our way we stopped to see the lower falls

of the Genessee river, and Carthage bridge. This wooden bridge

is now in ruins. When perfect, it must have been extremely

beautiful. It was a single arch, whose span was about 350 feet

wide, and its extreme height above the surface of the river 196

feet. It gave way from the slightness of its materials,

immediately after two children had crossed it. A short distance

above it are the falls of the Genessee, which appeared to me to

bear a strong resemblance to those of the Clyde. At Rochester we

found a handsome mill, and every symptom of a thriving town.

Instead of ‘cash store’ being painted over the shops, as in most

towns of the United States, to tell the customers that the

shopkeepers sell only for cash, while they may almost be induced

to sell even a thimble on credit; ‘here cash _given_ for wheat,’

‘cash _given_ for, &c. &c.’ was the usual motto. We learnt also,

that the town was blessed by the absence of a bank, while in the

smallest American town I had been accustomed to find banks the

first objects which presented themselves—the Farmer’s Bank, the

Merchant’s Bank, the Planter’s Bank, the Mechanic’s Bank, the

Franklin Bank, the Patriotic Bank, &c. &c. with their various

combinations, had met my eye more or less in every village. We

embarked again about two o’clock, and in the morning by

day-light found ourselves at Sacket’s Harbour, of which we heard

so much during the war. It is a noble natural harbour, and the

place where the American ships employed on the lakes were built

so rapidly. Many of them are now rotting under wooden covers.

There is one half finished, _said_ to be longer than our largest

ship of the line, covered with a wooden shade, which itself, our

conductor told us, cost 7,000_l._ This immense vessel, so far

inland, on the banks of a lake, was a singular sight, and

excited some incongruous ideas.

[Illustration: _Prescott, from Ogdensburg Harbour._]

“We sailed again soon after breakfast, and in the morning (9th)

found ourselves at Ogdensburgh, about 260 miles from Niagara,

which we had left on the 6th. The preceding afternoon we had

entered the St. Lawrence, and I had been much delighted with our

sail through that expanse of it which is called the Lake of the

Thousand Islands. In reality, there are more than 2,000, of

every size and form, and a lovely afternoon exhibited them in

all their beauty. As we glided past them, on the smooth surface

of the St. Lawrence, I thought I had never beheld a scene which

so nearly realized my ideas of enchantment. The banks of the

river as we proceeded were rather less wild and interesting than

I had expected.

“At Ogdensburgh, which is said to belong principally to Mr.

Parish, who is endeavouring to settle a tract of land in the

vicinity, we breakfasted at a large stone tavern, which he has

built, and then prepared in high spirits to descend the Rapids.

For this purpose we hired a long boat, which would accommodate

the whole party, and which, with 25 people on board and their

baggage, and 25 barrels of flour for ballast, was said to draw

only eight inches of water. We set sail about ten o’clock, and

in four hours and a few minutes had been carried 48 miles down

the stream, in the course of which we had passed the first three

rapids, one of which was half a mile, another two, and another

about nine miles long. We always discerned them at a great

distance, the dashing of the white foam resembling the tossing

of the ocean; and as we approached them our velocity gradually

increased, till we were carried by the stream at the rate of 14

or 15 miles an hour. When we got into the middle of the surges,

our velocity, though still great, was checked by the eddies and

by waves which frequently struck the bottom of the boat with

great force; and from the appearance of the troubled waters, it

seemed difficult for a boat to live. The confidence of the

boatmen, however, checked our apprehensions, and our ladies

behaved extremely well. The most alarming appearance was that of

pointed rocks, which, from the transparency of the water, seemed

to rise almost to the surface, and to threaten inevitable

destruction. As I stood on the bow, I saw combinations of rocks,

towards which we were hurried with impetuosity, and which it

seemed impossible our boat could pass without striking. In some

of the Rapids there were channels, called lost channels, from

the accidents which had happened in them, and into which our

boatmen had to guard against our being carried. The river varies

from three-fourths of a mile to two miles in width; and although

there are no mountains near, (the green mountains of Vermont

were often in sight at a distance,) the white pine and cedar

gave a picturesque appearance to its banks, and a resemblance to

the river views in Norway or Sweden. One of the most singular

sensations we experienced, was that of sailing many miles

perceptibly _down hill_. Soon after passing the third rapid, the

St. Lawrence expanded into a wide lake—the Lake of St. Francis.

There we lost our wind and stream, and were obliged to have

recourse to our oars. The evening was now closing in, and a

violent thunder-storm brought on a premature darkness; but the

ladies enlivened us by singing the Canadian Boat-Song, ‘Row,

brothers, row, &c.’ which transported me to ——, where I have

so often heard it.

[Illustration: _Village of Cedars, River St. Lawrence._]

[Illustration: _Nelson’s Pillar,_

Montreal.]

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