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THE
Natural HISTORY
OF
CHOCOLATE:
BEING
A Distinct and Particular Account of the COCOA-TREE, its Growth and
Culture, and the Preparation, Excellent Properties, and Medicinal
Vertues of its Fruit.
Wherein the Errors of those who have wrote upon this Subject are
discover'd; the Best Way of Making CHOCOLATE is explain'd; and
several Uncommon MEDICINES drawn from it, are communicated.
_Translated from the last EDITION of the _French_,
_By_ R. BROOKES, M. D._
The SECOND EDITION.
_LONDON:_
Printed for J. ROBERTS, near the _Oxford-Arms_ in _Warwick-Lane_.
M DCC.XXX.
PREFACE
If the Merit of a Natural History depends upon the Truth of the Facts
which are brought to support it, then an unprejudiced Eye-Witness is
more proper to write it, than any other Person; and I dare even flatter
myself, that this will not be disagreeable to the Publick
notwithstanding its Resemblance to the particular Treatises of
_Colmenero_[1], _Dufour_[2], and several others who have wrote upon the
same Subject. Upon examination, so great a Difference will appear, that
no one can justly accuse me of having borrow'd any thing from these
Writers.
This small Treatise is nothing but the Substance and Result of the
Observations that I made in the _American Islands_, during the fifteen
Years which I was obliged to stay there, upon the account of his
Majesty's Service. The great Trade they drive there in _Chocolate_,
excited my Curiosity to examine more strictly than ordinary into its
Origin, Culture, Properties, and Uses. I was not a little surprized when
I every day discover'd, as to the Nature of the Plant, and the Customs
of the Country, a great Number of Facts contrary to the Ideas, and
Prejudices, for which the Writers on this Subject have given room.
For this reason, I resolved to examine every thing myself, and to
represent nothing but as it really was in Nature, to advance nothing but
what I had experienced, and even to doubt of the Experiments themselves,
till I had repeated them with the utmost Exactness. Without these
Precautions, there can be no great Dependance on the greatest Part of
the Facts, which are produced by those who write upon any Historical
Matter from Memorandums; which, from the Nature of the Subject, they
cannot fully comprehend.
As for my Reasonings upon the Nature, Vertues, and Uses of Chocolate,
perhaps they may be suspected by some People, because they relate to an
Art which I do not profess; but let that be as it will, the Facts upon
which they are founded are certain, and every one is at liberty to make
what other Inferences they like best.
As there are several Names of Plants, and Terms of Art used in those
Countries, which I have been obliged to make use of, and which it was
necessary to explain somewhat at large, that they might be rightly
understood; rather than make frequent Digressions, and interrupt the
Discourse, I have thought fit to number these Terms, and to explain them
at the End of this Treatise: the Reader must therefore look forward for
those Remarks under their particular Numbers.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] De Chocolatâ Indâ.
[2] Du Thé, du Caffe, & du Chocolat.
THE TABLE.
The First PART.
Chap. I. The Description of the _Cocao-Tree_. Pag. 2
Chap. II. Of the Choice and Disposition of the Place
to plant a Nursery. 10
Chap. III. Of the Method of Planting a Nursery, and of
its Cultivation, till the Fruit comes to Maturity. 16
Chap. IV. Of the gathering the _Cocao-Nuts_, and of the
Manner of making the Kernels sweat; and also of drying
them that they may be transported into _Europe_. 24
The Second PART.
Of the Properties of Chocolate. 38
Chap. I. Of the old Prejudices against Chocolate. 39
Chap. II. Of the real Properties of Chocolate. 44
Sect. I. Chocolate is very Temperate. 45
Sect. II. Chocolate is very nourishing, and of easy Digestion. 47
Sect. III. Chocolate speedily repairs the dissipated Spirits
and decayed Strength. 51
Sect. IV. Chocolate is very proper to preserve Health, and
to prolong the Life of old Men. 56
The Third PART.
Of the Uses of Chocolate. 60
Chap. I. Of Chocolate in Confections. 61
Chap. II. Of Chocolate properly so called. 62
Sect. I. Of the Origin of Chocolate, and the different
Methods of preparing it. 63
The Method of preparing Chocolate used in the _French_
Islands of _America_. 67
Sect. II. Of the Uses that may be made of Chocolate, with
relation to Medicine. 70
Chap. III. Of the Oil or Butter of Chocolate. 74
Remarks upon some Places of this Treatise. 80
Medicines in whose Composition Oil, or Butter of Chocolate,
is made use of. 91
The wonderful Plaister for the curing of all Kinds of Ulcers. ibid.
An excellent Pomatum for the Cure of Tettars, Ringworms,
Pimples, and other Deformities of the Skin. 94
* * * * *
The APPROBATION of Monsieur _Andry_, Counsellor, Lecturer, and Regal
Professor, Doctor, Regent of the Faculty of Medicine at _Paris_, and
Censor Royal of Books.
I Have read, by order of the Lord Keeper of the Seals, this _Natural
History of Chocolate_, and I judge that the Impression will be very
necessary and useful for the Publick. Given at _Paris_ this 5th of
_April, 1719_.
THE
Natural HISTORY
OF
CHOCOLATE.
Of the Division of this Treatise.
I Shall divide this Treatise on Chocolate into three Parts: In the
_First_, after I have given a Description of the _Cocao Tree_, I shall
explain how it is cultivated, and give an Account how its Fruit is
prepared: In the _Second_, I shall speak of the Properties of
_Chocolate_; and in the _Third_, of its Uses.
PART I.
CHAP. I.
The Description of the _Cocao-Tree_.
The _Cocao-Tree_ is moderately tall and thick, and either thrives, or
not, according to the Quality of the Soil wherein it grows: Upon the
Coast of _Caraqua_, for instance, it grows considerably larger than in
the Islands belonging to the _French_.
Its _Wood_ is porous, and very light; the _Bark_ is pretty firm, and of
the Colour of _Cinnamon_, more or less dark, according to the Age of the
Tree. The _Leaves_ are about nine Inches long, and four in breadth,
where they are broadest; for they grow less towards the two Extremities,
where they terminate in a point: their Colour is a little darkish, but
more bright above than underneath; they are joined to Stalks three
Inches long, and the tenth part of an Inch broad. This Stalk, as it
enters the Leaf, makes a strait Rib, a little raised along the Middle,
which grows proportionably less the nearer it comes to the End. From
each side of this Rib proceed thirteen or fourteen crooked Threads
alternately.
As these Leaves only fall off successively, and in proportion as others
grow again, this Tree never appears naked: It is always flourishing, but
more especially so towards the two _Solstices_, than in the other
Seasons.
The _Blossoms_, which are regular and like a Rose, but very small, and
without smell, proceed from the Places from which the old Leaves fall,
as it were in Bunches. A large Quantity of these fall off, for hardly
Ten of a Thousand come to good, insomuch that the Earth underneath seems
cover'd over with them.
Every _Blossom_ is joined to the Tree by a slender Stalk half an Inch or
a little more in length; when it is yet in the Bud, it is one Fifth of
an Inch broad, and about one fourth or a little more in length: when it
was least, in proportion to the Tree and the Fruit, the more strange it
appeared to me, and more worthy of Attention[a].
When the Buds begin to blow, one may consider the _Calix_, the
_Foliage_, and the Heart of the Blossom. The _Calix_ is formed of the
Cover of the Bud, divided into five Parts, or Leaves, of a very pale
flesh-colour. These are succeeded by the five true Leaves of the same
Colour, which fill up the empty Spaces or Partitions of the _Calix_.
These Leaves have two Parts, the undermost of which is like an oblong
Cup, striped with Purple; on the inside, it bends towards the Center by
the help of a _Stamen_, which serves to fasten it; from this proceeds
outwardly, the other Part of the Leaf, which seems to be separate from
it, and is formed like the End of a Pike.
The Heart is composed of five Threads and five _Stamina_, with the
_Pistilla_ in the middle. The Threads are strait, and of a purple
Colour, and placed over-against the Intervals of the Leaves. The
_Stamina_ are white, and bend outwardly with a kind of a Button on the
top, which insinuates itself into the middle of each Leaf to sustain
itself.
When one looks at these small Objects through a Microscope, one is ready
to say, That the Point of the Threads is like Silver, and that the
_Stamina_ are Chrystal; as well as the _Pistilla_, which Nature seems to
have placed in the Center, either to be the _Primitiæ_ of the young
Fruit, or to serve to defend it, if it be true that this Embryo unfolds
itself, and is produced in no other place but the Base.
For want of observing these small Parts, as well as the Bulk of the
Blossom, _F. Plumier_ had no distinct Knowledge of them, nor has he
exactly design'd them, any more than _Mons. Tournefort_, who has done
them after his Draught[b].
The _Cocao-Tree_ almost all the Year bears Fruit of all Ages, which
ripen successively, but never grow on the end of little Branches, as our
Fruits in _Europe_ do, but along the Trunk and the chief Boughs, which
is not rare in these Countries, where several Trees do the like; such as
the [1]_Cocoeiers_, the [2]_Apricots_ of St. _Domingo_, the
[3]_Calebashes_, the [4]_Papaws_, &c.
Such an unusual Appearance would seem strange in the Eyes of
_Europeans_, who had never seen any thing of that kind; but if one
examines the Matter a little, the philosophical Reason of this
Disposition is very obvious. One may easily apprehend, that if Nature
had placed such bulky Fruit at the Ends of the Branches, their great
Weight must necessarily break them, and the Fruit would fall before it
came to Maturity.
The Fruit of the _Cocao-Tree_ is contained in a Husk or Shell, which
from an exceeding small Beginning, attains, in the space of four Months,
to the Bigness and Shape of a Cucumber; the lower End is sharp and
furrow'd length-ways like a Melon[c].
This Shell in the first Months is either red or white, or a Mixture of
red and yellow: This Variety of Colours makes three sorts of
_Cocao-Trees_, which have nothing else to distinguish them but this,
which I do not think sufficient to make in reality three different kinds
of _Cocao-Nuts_[d].
The First is of a dark vinous Red, chiefly on the sides, which becomes
more bright and pale as the Fruit ripens.
The Second, which is the White, or rather is at first of so pale a
Green, that it may be mistaken for White; by little and little it
assumes a Citron Colour, which still growing deeper and deeper, at
length becomes entirely yellow.
The Third, which is Red and Yellow mix'd together, unites the Properties
of the other two; for as they grow ripe, the Red becomes pale, and the
Yellow grows more deep.
I have observed that the white Shells are thicker and shorter than the
other, especially on the side towards the Tree, and that these sorts of
Trees commonly bear most.
If one cleaves one of these Shells length-ways, it will appear almost
half an Inch thick, and its Capacity full of Chocolate Kernels; the
Intervals of which, before they are ripe, are fill'd with a hard white
Substance, which at length turns into a Mucilage of a very grateful
Acidity: For this reason, it is common for People to take some of the
Kernels with their Covers, and hold them in their Mouths, which is
mighty refreshing, and proper to quench Thirst. But they take heed of
biting them, because the Films of the Kernels are extreamly bitter.
When one nicely examines the inward Structure of these Shells, and
anatomizes, as it were, all their Parts; one shall find that the Fibres
of the Stalk of the Fruit passing through the Shell, are divided into
five Branches; that each of these Branches is subdivided into several
Filaments, every one of which terminates at the larger End of these
Kernels, and all together resemble a Bunch of Grapes, containing from
twenty to thirty-five single ones, or more, ranged and placed in an
admirable Order.
I cannot help observing here, what Inconsistency there is in the
Accounts concerning the Number of Kernels in each Shell. [e]_Dampier_,
for instance, says there is commonly near a Hundred; other Moderns[f]
60, 70 or 80, ranged like the Seeds of a Pomgranate. [g]_Thomas Gage_,
30 or 40; _Colmenero_[h] 10 or 12; and _Oexmelin_[i] 10 or 12, to 14.
I can affirm, after a thousand Tryals, that I never found more nor less
than twenty-five. Perhaps if one was to seek out the largest Shells in
the most fruitful Soil, and growing on the most flourishing Trees, one
might find forty Kernels; but as it is not likely one should ever meet
with more, so, on the other hand, it is not probable one should ever
find less than fifteen, except they are abortive, or the Fruit of a Tree
worn out with Age in a barren Soil, or without Culture.
When one takes off the Film that covers one of the Kernels, the
Substance of it appears; which is tender, smooth, and inclining to a
violet Colour, and is seemingly divided into several Lobes, tho' in
reality they are but two; but very irregular, and difficult to be
disengaged from each other, which we shall explain more clearly in
speaking of its Vegetation. [k]_Oexmelin_ and several others have
imagined, that a _Cocao_-Kernel was composed of five or six Parts
sticking fast together; Father _Plumier_ himself fell into this Error,
and has led others into it[l]. If the Kernel be cut in two length-ways,
one finds at the Extremity of the great end, a kind of a longish
[m]Grain, one fifth of an Inch long, and one fourth Part as broad, which
is the _Germ_, or first Rudiments of the Plant; but in _European_
Kernels this Part is placed at the other end.
One may even see in _France_ this Irregularity of the Lobes, and also
the _Germ_ in the Kernels that are roasted and cleaned to make
Chocolate.
FOOTNOTES:
[a] _Piso_ says (_Montiss. Aromat. cap. 18._) that the Blossom is great
and of a bright Yellow, _Flos est magnus & flavescens instar Croci_. A
modern Author has transcribed this. Error of _Piso_; _Floribus_, says
he, _magnis pentapetalis & flavis_. _Dale_ Pharmacologia, _Pag. 441_.
[b] Appen. Rei Herbariæ. _pag._ 660. _tab._ 444.
[1] [2] [3] [4] See the Remarks at the End of this Treatise.
[c] _Benzo_ says they grow ripe in a Year, as well as others after him,
_Annuo Spatio maturescit, Benzo memorante_. Carol. Cluzio, l. c. _Annuo
justam attingens Maturitatem Spatio_. Franc. Hernandes, _apud_ Anton.
Rech. _In Hist. Ind. Occidental_, lib. 5. c. 1.
[d] It seems likely that the _Spanish_ Authors who say there are four
Kinds of this at _Mexico_, have no better Foundation for the difference
than this; and Mons. _Tournefort_ had reason to say after Father
_Plumier_, that he only knew one Kind of this Tree. Cacao _Speciem
Unicam novi_. _Append. Rei Herb._ pag. 660.
[e] _A new Voyage round the World._ Tom. 1. Ch. 3. p. 69.
[f] Pomet's _General History of Drugs_, Book vii. Ch. xiv. pag. 205.
Chomel's _Abridgment of usual Plants_. Valentin. Hist. Simplicium
reform. lib. 2.
[g] New Relation of the _East Indies_. Tom. 1. Part 2. Ch. 19.
[h] A curious Discourse upon Chocolate, by _Ant. Colmenero de Cedesma_,
Physician and Chirurgeon at _Paris_ 1643.
[i] _The History of Adventures._ Tom. 1. Pag. 423.
[k] Ibid.
[l] In multas veluti Amygdalas fissiles. _Tournefort_ in Append. Rei
Herb. _Pag. 660. & Tab. 444._
[m] I can't imagine upon what Foundation _Oexmelin_ could assert, that
the _Spaniards_ in the making of their Chocolate, used nothing but this
longish Grain, which he calls _Pignon_. Au Milieu desquelles Amandes de
Cacao, est, _says he_, un petit Pignon, qui a la Germe fort tendre, &
difficile à conserver; c'est de cette Semence que les Espaniols font la
celebre Boisson de Chocolat. _Oexmelin_ Histoire des Avanturers, _Tom.
1. pag. 423_. He confirms more plainly the same Fancy, _Pag. 426_.
CHAP. II.
Of the Choice and Disposition of the Place for Planting _Cocao-Trees_.
The _Cocao-Tree_ grows naturally in several Countries in _America_ under
the Torrid Zone, but chiefly at _Mexico_, in the Provinces of
_Nicaragua_ and _Guatimala_, as also along the Banks of the River of the
_Amazons_[n]. Likewise upon the Coast of _Caraqua_, that is to say,
from Comana to Cartagena[o] and the _Golden Island_. Some also have
been found in the Woods of _Martinico_.
The _Spaniards_ and _Portuguese_ were the first to whom the _Indians_
communicated the Use of _Cocao-Nuts_, which they kept a long time to
themselves without acquainting other Nations with it; who in reality
know so little of it at this day, that some _Dutch_ Corsairs, ignorant
of the Value of some Prizes they had taken, out of contempt cast the
Merchandize into the Sea, calling it in derision, in very indifferent
_Spanish_, _Cacura de Carnero_[p], The Dung of Beasts.
In 1649[q] in the _Vert_ Islands, they had never seen but one Tree
planted, which was in the Garden of an _English-Man_, an Inhabitant of
the Island of _St. Croix_[r]. In 1655, the _Caribeans_[s] shewed to M.
_du Parepet_ a _Cocao-Tree_ in the Woods of the Island of _Martinico_,
whereof he was Governour. This discovery was the Foundation of several
others of the same kind, in the Woods of the _Cape Sterre_[t] of this
Island. And it is probable that the Kernels which were taken out of
them, were the Original of those _Cocao-Trees_ that have been planted
there since. A _Jew_ named _Benjamin_ planted the first about the Year
1660, but it was not till twenty or twenty-five Years after, that the
Inhabitants of _Martinico_ apply'd themselves to the Cultivation of
_Cocao-Trees_, and to raise Nurseries of them.
When one would raise a Nursery, it is necessary, above all things, to
chuse a proper Place, in respect of Situation, and a Soil agreeable to
the Nature of it.
The Place should be level, moist, and not exposed to Winds; a fresh, and
(if one may be allow'd the Expression) a Virgin Soil, indifferently fat,
light, and deep. For this reason, Ground newly cleared, whose Soil is
black and sandy, which is kept moist by a River, and its Borders so high
as to shelter it from the Winds, especially towards the Sea Coast, is
preferable to any other; and they never fail putting it to this Use,
when they are so happy as to find any of this sort.
I have said, _Ground newly cleared_, that is to say, whose Wood is cut
down purposely for it; for it is necessary to observe, that they at
present plant their Nurseries in the middle of Woods, which have been so
time out of mind, and this for two weighty Reasons: The First, because
the Wood that is left standing round it, may serve as a Shelter; and the
Second, because there is less Trouble in weeding or grubbing it. The
Ground that has never produced any Weeds, will send forth but few, for
want of Seed.
As for Nurseries planted in high Ground, the Earth is neither moist nor
deep enough, and commonly the chief Root which grows directly downwards,
cannot pierce the hard Earth which it soon meets with. Besides, the
Winds are more boisterous, and cause the Blossoms to fall off as soon as
blown, and when a little high, overturn the Tree, whose Roots are almost
all superficial.
This is yet worse on the Hills, whose Descent is too steep; for besides
the same Inconveniencies, the falling down of the Earth draws with it
the good Soil, and insensibly lays the Roots bare.
One may therefore conclude that all these Nurseries are a long time
before they bear, that they are never fruitful, and that they are
destroy'd in a little time.
It is also proper that a Nursery, as much as may be, should be
surrounded with standing Wood; but if it is open on any side, it should
be remedy'd as soon as possible, by a Border of several Ranks of Trees
called _Bananes_[5].
Besides this, the Nurseries should be moderate in respect of Magnitude,
for the Small have not Air enough, and are, as it were, stifled; and the
very Large are too liable to Dryness, and to the great Winds, which, in
_America_, they call _Ouragans_[u].
The Place of the Nursery being chosen, and the Bigness determined, they
apply themselves to clear it of the Wood. They begin with plucking up
the little Plants, and by cutting the Shrubs, and small kinds of Trees,
and felling the Trunks and larger Branches of others; they then make
Piles, and set them on fire in all Parts, and so burn down the largest
Trees of all, to save themselves the trouble of cutting them.
When all is burnt, and there remains nothing upon the Earth, but the
Trunks of the great Trees which they don't trouble themselves to
consume, and when the Space is well cleaned, they make Alleys by the
help of a Line, strait and at equal Distances from each other, and
thrust Sticks into the Ground of two or three Foot long, and 5, 6, 7, 8,
9 or 10 Feet distant, or at such a distance that they design to plant
the _Cocao-Trees_, which they represent. Afterwards they plant _Manioc_
in the empty Spaces, taking care not to come too near the Sticks.
One may observe, that the Nurseries planted at the great Distances of
eight or ten Feet, are a great deal more troublesome to keep clean in
the first Years, as we shall observe hereafter; but then they prosper a
great deal better, bear more, and last longer.
The Inhabitants, who have a great deal to do, and have but few Slaves,
plant the Trees nearer, because by this means they gain room, and they
have less trouble to keep it clear; when afterwards the Trees come to
hurt and annoy each other by their Proximity, and they have had some
Crops to supply their present Necessities: or if otherwise, they are
obliged to cut some to give Air to the rest.
On the Coast of _Caraqua_, they plant the _Cocao-Trees_ at 12 or 15 Feet
distance, and they make Trenches to water them from time to time in the
dry Seasons. They happily experienced the Success of this Practice at
_Martinico_ some Years since.
The _Manioc_[6] is a woody Shrub, whose Roots being grated, and baked
on the Fire, yield a _Cassave_, or Meal, which serves to make Bread for
all the Natives of _America_. They plant it in the new Nurseries, not
only because it is necessary to supply the _Negroes_ with Food, but also
it hinders the Growth of Weeds, and serves to shade the young
_Cocao-Trees_, whose tender Shoots, and even the second Leaves, are not
able to resist the scorching Beams of the Sun. For this reason they wait
till the _Manioc_ shades the Feet of the Sticks before they plant the
_Cocao-Trees_, in the manner that we shall describe in the following
Chapter.
FOOTNOTES:
[n] Relation of the River of the _Amazons_.
[o] I have added this Explication, because _Pomet_ makes it come from
_Caraqua_, of the Province of _Nicaragua_ in _New Spain_, which is
distant from _Caracas_ 5 or 600 Leagues. V. VII. Chap. xiv.
[p] Thomas Gage, _Tom. 1. Part 2. Chap. 19. Pag. 150._
[q] Rochefort's _Natural History of the _Antilloes_. Book 1. Chap. 6.
Artic. 16._
[r] Father _Tertre_'s Hist. of the _Antilloes_. Tom. 2. p. 184.
[s] These are the Savage Natives of the _Antilloes_.
[t] That Part is call'd so, which lies exposed to the Winds which come
always from the _North-East_ to the _South-East_. That Part under the
Wind, is called _Basse-Terre_.
[5] See the fifth Remark at the End of the Treatise.
[u] These violent and outrageous Winds blow from all Points of the
Compass in twenty-four Hours. And this is one material thing to
distinguish them from the regular and common Winds of this Climate.
[6] See the Remark at the sixth Article.
CHAP. III.
Of the Method of Planting a Nursery, and to cultivate it till the Fruit
comes to Maturity.
_Cocao-Trees_ are planted from the Kernel or Seed, for the Nature of the
Wood will not admit of Slips: They open a _Cocao-Shell_, and according
as they have occasion, take out the Kernels, and plant them one by one,
beginning, for example, at the first Stick: They pluck it up, and with a
sort of a Setting-Stick made of Iron, and well sharpened, they make a
Hole, and turning the Iron about, cut off the little Roots that may do
hurt. They plant the Kernel three or four Inches deep, and thrust in the
Stick they before had pluck'd up a little on one side, to serve as a
Mark: and so they proceed from Stick to Stick, and from Rank to Rank,
till they have gone through the whole Nursery.
It must be observed, 1. _Not to plant in a dry Season._ One may indeed
plant in any Month of the Year, or any Moon, new or old, when the Season
is cool, and the Place ready; but it is commonly believed, that planting
from _September_ to _Christmas_, the Trees bear more than in some
Months.
2. _Not to plant any but the largest Kernels, and such as are plump_:
For since in the finest Shells there are sometimes withered Kernels, it
would be very imprudent to make use of them.
3. _To plant the great Ends of the Kernels lowermost._ This is that
which is held by a little Thread to the Center of the Shell, when one
takes the Kernel out. If the little End was placed downward, the Foot of
the Tree would become crooked, neither would it prosper; and if it was
placed sideways, the Foot would not succeed very well.
4. _To put two or three Kernels at every Stick_, that if by any
Mischance the tender Shoots of one or two are broken by Insects, or
otherwise, there may be one left to supply the Defect. If no bad
Accident happen, you have the advantage of chusing the straitest and
most likely Shoot. But it is not best to cut up the supernumerary ones
till that which is chosen is grown up, and, according to all appearance,
out of danger.
The Kernels come up in ten or twelve Days, more or less, according as
the Season, more or less favourable, hastens or backens their Growth:
The longish Grain of the Germ beginning to swell, sends forth the little
Root downwards, which afterwards becomes the chief Stay of the Tree, and
upwards it pushes out the Shoot, which is an Epitomy of the Trunk and
the Branches. These Parts encreasing, and discovering themselves more
and more, the two Lobes of the Kernel a little separated and bent back,
appear first out of the Earth, and regain their natural Position, in
proportion as the Shoot rises, and then separate themselves intirely,
and become two Leaves of a different Shape, of an obscure Green, thick,
unequal, and, as it were, shrivel'd up, and make what they call the
_Ears_ of the Plant. The Shoot appears at the same time, and is divided
into two tender Leaves of bright Green: To these two first Leaves,
opposite to each other, succeed two more, and to these a third Pair. The
Stalk or Trunk rises in proportion, and thence forward during a Year, or
thereabouts.
The whole Cultivation of the _Cocao-Tree_ may then be reduced to the
Practice of two Things.
_First_, To over-look them during the first fifteen Days; that is to
say, to plant new Kernels in the room of those that do not come up, or
whose Shoots have been destroy'd by Insects, which very often make
dreadful Havock among these Plants, even when one would think they are
out of danger. Some Inhabitants make Nurseries a-part, and transplant
them to the Places where they are wanting: but as they do not all grow,
especially when they are a little too big, or the Season not favourable,
and because the greatest part of those that do grow languish a long
time, it always seem'd to me more proper to set fresh Kernels; and I am
persuaded, if the Consequences are duly weighed, it will be practised
for the future.
_Secondly_, Not to let any Weeds grow in the Nursery, but to cleanse it
carefully from one end to the other, and taking care, above all things,
not to let any Herb or Weed grow up to Seed; for if it should happen so
but once, it will be very difficult thenceforwards to root those
troublesome Guests out, and to keep the Nursery clean, because the Cold
in this Country never interrupts Vegetation.
This Weeding should be continued till the Trees are become large, and
their Branches spreading, cast such a Shade as to hinder the Weeds from
coming up; and afterwards, the Leaves falling from the Trees, and
covering the Earth, will contribute to stifle them intirely. When this
troublesome Business of Weeding is ended, it will be sufficient to
overlook them once a Month, and pluck up here and there those few Weeds
that remain, and to carry them far into the Woods for fear of Seeds.
When the _Cocao-Trees_ are nine Months old, the _Manioc_ should then
begin to be pluck'd up; and it should be managed so, that in three
Months time there should be none left. There may be a Row or two
replanted in each Alley, and Cucumbers, Citruls, and [x]_Giraumonts_
may be sow'd in the void Spaces, or _Caribean_ Coleworts; because these
Plants having great spreading Leaves, are very proper to keep the Earth
cool and moist, and to stifle the noisome Weeds. When the _Cocao-Trees_
come to shade the Ground entirely, then it will be necessary to pluck up
every thing, for nothing then will grow beneath 'em.
The _Cocao-Trees_ of one Year old have commonly a Trunk of four Feet
high, and begin to spread, by sending out five Branches at the top, all
at a time, which forms that which they call the _Crown_ of a
_Cocao-Tree_. It seldom happens that any of these five Branches are
wanting, and if by any Accident, or contrary to the Order of Nature, it
has but three or four, the Tree never comes to good, and it will be
better to cut it off, and wait for a new Crown, which will not be long
before it is form'd.
If at the end of the Year the _Manioc_ is not plucked up, they will make
the Trees be more slow in bearing; and their Trunks running up too high,
will be weak, slender, and more exposed to the Winds. If they should be
crowned, their Crowns will be too close; and the chief Branches not
opening themselves enough, the Trees will never be sufficiently
disengaged, and will not spread so much as they ought to do.
When all the Trunks are crowned, they chuse the finest Shoots, and cut
up the supernumerary ones without mercy; for if this is not done out of
hand, it will be difficult to persuade one's self afterwards: tho it is
not possible but that Trees placed so near each other, should be hurtful
to each other in the end.
The Trees are no sooner crown'd, but they send forth, from time to time,
an Inch or two above the Crown, new Shoots, which they call Suckers: If
Nature was permitted to play her part, these Suckers would soon produce
a second Crown, that again new Suckers, which will produce a third,
_&c._ Thus the _Cocao-Trees_ proceed, that are wild and uncultivated,
which are found in the Woods of _Cape-Sterre_ in _Martinico_. But seeing
all these Crowns do but hinder the Growth of the first, and almost
bring it to nothing, tho it is the principal; and that the Tree, if left
to itself, runs up too high, and becomes too slender; they should take
care every Month when they go to weed it, or gather the Fruit, to prune
it; that is to say, to cut or lop off all the Suckers.
I don't know whether they have yet thought it proper to prune, any more
than to graft upon _Cocao-Trees_: There is however a sort of Pruning
which, in my Opinion, would be very advantageous to it. These sort of
Trees, for example, have always (some more than others) dead Branches
upon them, chiefly upon the Extremities of the Boughs; and there is no
room to doubt but it would be very proper to lop off these useless
Branches, paring them off with the pruning Knife even to the Quick. But
as the Advantage that will accrue from it will neither be so immediate,
nor so apparent as the Time and Pains that is employ'd in it; it is very
probable that this Care will be neglected, and that it will be esteem'd
as Labour lost. But however, the _Spaniards_ do not think so; for, on
the contrary, they are very careful to cut off all the dead Sprigs: for
which reason their Trees are more flourishing than ours, and yield much
finer Fruit. I believe they have not the same care in grafting them, nor
do I think any Person has hitherto attempted to do it: I am persuaded
nevertheless, that the _Cocao-Trees_ would be better for it. Is it not
by the assistance of grafting our Fruit Trees in several manners, (which
were originally wild, and found by chance in the Woods) that they have
at length found the Art of making them bear such excellent Fruit?
In proportion as the _Cocao-Trees_ grow, the Leaves upon the Trunks fall
off by little and little, which ought to fall off on their own accord;
for when they are entirely bare, they have not long to flourish: The
first Blossoms commonly fall off, and the ripe Fruit is not to be
expected in less time than three Years, and that if it be in a good
Soil. The fourth Year the Crop is moderate, and the fifth it is as great
as ever it will be; for then the Trees commonly bear all the Year about,
and have Blossoms and Fruit of all Ages. Some Months indeed there is
almost none, and others, they are loaded; and towards the Solstices,
that is, in _June_ and _December_, they bear most.
As in the Tempests called _Ouragans_ the Wind blows from all Points of
the Compass in twenty-four Hours, it will be well if it does not break
in at the weakest Place of the Nursery, and do a great deal of Mischief,
which it is necessary to remedy with all possible expedition. If the
Wind has only overturn'd the Trees without breaking the chief Root, then
the best Method that can be taken in good Soil, is to raise them up
again, and put them in their Places, propping them up with a Fork, and
putting in the Earth about it very carefully: By this means they will be
re-establish'd in less than six Months, and they will bear again as if
no harm had come to them. In bad Soil, it will be better to let them
lie, putting the Earth about the Roots, and cultivate at their lower
Parts, or Feet, the best grown Sucker, and that which is nearest the
Roots, cutting off carefully all the rest: The Tree in this Condition
will not give over blossoming and bearing Fruit; and when in two Years
time the Sucker is become a new Tree, the old Tree must be cut off half
a Foot distant from the Sucker.
FOOTNOTES:
[x] These are Citruls whose Pulp is very yellow.
CHAP IV.
Of the gathering of the _Cocao-Nuts_, and the Manner of making them
sweat, and of drying them that they may be brought sound into _Europe_.
The Observations which we made in the first Chapter, concerning the
Alterations of the Colour of the Nuts, give us information of the time
that they become ripe. It will be proper to gather them when all the
Shell has changed Colour, and when there is but a small Spot below which
shall remain green. They go from Tree to Tree, and from Row to Row, and
with forked Sticks or Poles, they cause the ripe Nuts to fall down,
taking great care not to touch those that are not so, as well as the
Blossoms: They employ the most handy _Negroes_ in this Work, and others
follow them with Baskets to gather them, and lay them in Heaps, where
they remain four Days without being touch'd.
In the Months that they bear most, they gather them for a Fortnight
together; in the less-fruitful Seasons, they only gather them from Month
to Month. If the Kernels were left in Shells more than four Days, they
would sprit, or begin to grow, and be quite spoiled[y]: It is therefore
necessary to shell them on the fifth Day in the Morning at farthest. To
do this, they strike on the middle of the Shells with a Bit of Wood to
cleave them, and then pull them open with their Fingers, and take out
the Kernels, which they put in Baskets, casting the empty Shells upon
the Ground, that they may with the Leaves, being putrified, serve to
fatten the Earth, and supply the Place of Dung.
They afterwards carry all the Kernels into a House, and lay them on a
heap upon a kind of loose Floor cover'd with Leaves of _Balize_[7],
which are about four Feet long, and twenty Inches broad; then they
surround it with Planks cover'd with the same Leaves, making a kind of
Granary, which may contain the whole Pile of Kernels, when spread
abroad. They cover the whole with the like Leaves, and lay some Planks
over all: the Kernels thus laid on a heap, and cover'd close on all
sides, do not fail to grow warm, by the Fermentation of their insensible
Particles; and this is what they call _Sweating_, in those Parts.
They uncover the Kernels Morning and Evening, and send the _Negroes_
among them; who with their Feet and Hands, turn them topsy turvy, and
then cover them up as before, with the same Leaves and the same Planks.
They continue to do this for five Days, at the end of which they have
commonly sweat enough, which is discover'd by their Colour, which grows
a great deal deeper, and very ruddy.
The more the Kernels sweat, the more they lose their Weight and
Bitterness: but if they have not sweat enough, they are more bitter, and
smell sour, and sometimes sprit. To succeed well therefore, there should
be a certain Medium observed, which is only to be learnt by use.
When the Kernels have sweat enough, they lay them out to air, and expose
them to the Sun to dry them, in the manner following.
They prepare before-hand, several Benches about two Foot high, in an
even Court appointed for that purpose; they lay upon these Benches
several Mats made of pieces of Reeds split in two, together with Bands
made of _Mahot_ Bark[8]. Upon these Mats they put the Kernels about two
Inches in height and move and turn them very often with a proper Piece
of Wood for the first two Days. At Night they wrap up the Kernels in the
Mats, which they cover with _Balize_ Leaves for fear of Rain, and they
do the same in the day-time when it is likely to rain. Those who are
afraid of having them stolen, lock them up.
There are some Inhabitants who keep Boxes about five Feet long, and two
broad, and three or four Inches deep, on purpose to dry the Kernels:
There is this Advantage in them, that in the greatest Rains and
suddenest Showers, they may presently be piled one on the top of
another, so that none but the top-most will want a Cover; which is soon
done with the aforesaid Leaves, and an empty Box turn'd up-side down.
But that which makes the Usage of Mats preferable, is, that the Air may
pass through beneath, between the Partition of the Reeds, and so dry the
Kernels better. Boxes whose Bottoms are made like a Sieve with strong
Brass Wire, would be very excellent; but then they must be made in
_Europe_, which would be a considerable Charge.
When the Kernels have sweat enough, they must be exposed upon the Mats
as much as necessary: If Rain is foreseen that is likely to last, it
will be best to let them sweat half a Day less. It is observable, that a
few hours Rain at first, instead of doing any harm, makes them more
beautiful, and better conditioned. In fair Weather, instead of this
Rain, it will be proper to expose them to the Dew for the first Nights.
The Rain of a whole Day or two will do no harm, if they are not covered
before they have had the Benefit of the Sun, for a Day, or half a Day at
least. For after a Day's Sun-shine, they are to be wrap'd in the Mat,
as before directed; but if it be half a Day's Rain only, then they are
only covered with _Balize_ Leaves in the Night, kept on with little
Stones laid at each End: But if the Rain be too long, it makes them
split, and then they will not keep long; they therefore make Chocolate
of it immediately.
If the Kernels have not sweat enough, or they wrap them too soon in the
Mat, they are subject to sprit or germe, which makes them bitter, and
good for nothing.
When the Kernels have been once wrapped in a Mat, and begun to dry, care
must be taken that they do not grow moist again; they must therefore be
well stirr'd from time to time, that they may be thorowly dry'd, which
you may know by taking a Handful in your Hand, and shutting it: if it
cracks, then it is time to put them into your Store-house, and to expose
them to sale.
Those who would gain a Reputation in giving out a good Merchandize,
before they pack it up in Vessels, pick it, and throw aside the little,
wither'd, and thin Kernels, which are not only unsightly, but render the
Chocolate something worse.
Afterwards the Kernels of the _Cocao-Nut_ are dried in the Sun, before
they are brought to _Europe_, and sold by the Druggists and Grocers, who
distinguish it into great and small, and into that of _Caraqua_, and
that of the _French_ Islands, tho with no good Foundation, for in the
Places themselves they make no mention of this Distinction: It therefore
seems likely, that the Merchants find their account in sorting it, since
Kernels proceeding from the same Tree, and from the same Nut, are not
always of the same bigness. It is indeed true, that if one Parcel of
Kernels be compared with another, the one may consist of bigger than the
other, which may arise from the Age or Vigour of the Trees, or from the
Nature of the Soil; but certainly there is no kind of Kernels which may
be called Great, as a distinct Kind, nor consequently no other which can
properly be said to be Small.
The Kernels that come to us from the Coast of _Caraqua_, are more oily,
and less bitter, than those that come from the _French_ Islands, and in
_France_ and _Spain_ they prefer them to these latter: But in _Germany_,
and in the North (_Fides sit penes Autorem_) they have a quite opposite
Taste. Several People mix that of _Caraqua_ with that of the Islands,
half in half, and pretend by this Mixture to make the Chocolate better.
I believe in the bottom, the difference of Chocolates is not
considerable, since they are only obliged to encrease or diminish the
Proportion of Sugar, according as the Bitterness of the Kernels require
it. For it must be considered, as we have already said, that there is
but one kind of _Cocao-Tree_, which grows as naturally in the Woods of
_Martinico_, as in those of the Coast of _Caraqua_, that the Climates
are almost the same, and consequently the Temperature of the Seasons
equal, and therefore there cannot be any intrinsick Difference between
these Fruits of any great moment.
As to the outward Difference that is observed, it can arise from nothing
but the Richness of the Soil, or the contrary; from the different
Culture, and from the Care or Negligence of the Labourers and those that
prepare it, from the time of its gathering, to the time of its Delivery,
and perhaps from all three together. It is to be observed at
_Martinico_, that the _Cocao-Trees_ prosper better in some Parts than
others, merely from the Difference of the Soil, being more or less rich,
or more or less moist.
I have had the Experience of one of my Friends, concerning what relates
to the Cultivation and Preparation of this Tree and its Fruit, which
demonstrates that they may add to its Value. This Gentleman, with a
great deal of Application and Thought, found out the way to prepare the
finest Merchandize of the Island, which was prefer'd by the Merchants to
all the rest, and bore a greater Price than that of any of his
Neighbours.
The Kernels of _Caraqua_ are flattish, and for Bulk and Figure not
unlike our large Beans. Those of _St. Domingo_, _Jamaica_, and _Cuba_,
are generally larger than those of the _Antilloes_. The more bulky the
Kernels are, and better they have been nourished, the less Waste there
is after they have been roasted and cleansed, which some Years ago was
an Advantage to those of _Caraqua_. But at present, by the Regulation
from the Month of _April_, 1717, the Kernels of our Colonies pay but
Two-pence Duty for Entry, whereas Foreigners pay always Fifteen: These
thirteen Pence difference make such ample amends for the small Waste,
that there is a great deal of reason to hope, that for the time to come,
there will be none but the Curious, and People that do not value the
Expence, that will make use of the Chocolate of _Caraqua_, by way of
preference to that of the _French_ Islands, and that the Cheapness of
the latter will double the Consumption at least.
The best _Cocao-Nuts_ have very brown firm Shells, and when the Kernel
is taken out, it ought to be plump, well nourish'd, and sleek; of the
Colour of a Hazle-Nut on the outside, but more inclining to a Red
within; its Taste a little bitter and astringent, not at all sour or
mouldy[z]. In a word, without any Smell, and not worm-eaten.
The Fruit of the _Cocao-Tree_ is the most oily that Nature has produced,
and it has this admirable Prerogative, never to grow rank let it be ever
so old, which all other Fruit do that are analogous to it in Qualities;
such as _Nuts_, _Almonds_, _Pine-Apple-Kernels_, _Pistachoe Nuts_,
_Olives_, &c.
There are also imported from _America_, _Cocao-Kernel-Cakes_ of about a
Pound weight each; and as this Preparation is the first and principal in
the Composition of Chocolate, it will be proper to add here the Manner
of making it.
The _Indians_, from whom we borrow it, are not very nice in doing it;
they roast the Kernels in earthen Pots, then free them from their Skins,
and afterwards crush and grind them between two Stones, and so form
Cakes of it with their Hands.
The _Spaniards_, more industrious than the _Savages_, and at this day
other Nations after their Example, chuse out the best Kernels[a], and
the most fresh: Of these they put about two Pounds in a great Iron
Shovel over a clear Fire, stirring them continually with a large
_Spatula_, so long that they may be roasted enough to have their Skins
come off easily, which should be done one by one[b], laying them
a-part; and taking great heed that the rotten and mouldy Kernels be
thrown away, and all that comes off the good ones; for these Skins being
left among the Chocolate, will not dissolve in any Liquor, nor even in
the Stomach, and fall to the bottom of Chocolate-Cups, as if the Kernels
had not been cleansed.
If one was curious to weigh the Kernels at the Druggists, and then weigh
them again after they are roasted and cleansed, one should find that
there would be about a sixth Part wasted, more or less, according to the
Nature and Qualities of the Kernels; that is to say, if you bought (for
example) 30 Pounds, there would remain entirely cleansed, near
twenty-five.
All the Kernels being thus roasted and cleansed at divers times, they
put them once more to roast in the same Iron Shovel, but over a more
gentle Fire, and stir them with the _Spatula_ without ceasing till they
are roasted all alike, and as much as they ought to be; which one may
discover by their Taste, and their dark-brown Colour, without being
black. The whole Art consists in avoiding the two Extremes, of not
roasting them enough, and roasting them too much; that is to say, till
they are burnt. If they are not roasted enough, they retain a
disagreeable Harshness of Taste; and if they are roasted so much as to
burn them, besides the Bitterness and ill Taste that they contract, they
lose their Oilyness entirely, and the best part of their good Qualities.
In _France_, where they are very apt to run into Extremes, they are
mighty fond of the burnt Taste, and the black Colour, as if they were
proper Marks of good Chocolate, not considering that, Quantity for
Quantity, they may as well put so much Charcoal as burnt Chocolate. This
Opinion is not only agreeable to Reason and good Sense, but is also
confirmed by the unanimous Consent of all that have written on this
Subject; and I can affirm, that it is authorized by the universal
Consent of all _America_.
When the Kernels are duly roasted, and well cleansed, they put them into
a large Mortar to reduce them into a gross Powder, which they afterwards
grind upon a Stone till it is very fine, which requires a more
particular Explication.
They make choice of a Stone which naturally resists the Fire, not so
soft as to rub away easily, nor so hard as to endure polishing. They cut
it from 16 to 18 Inches broad, and about 27 or 30 long, and 3 in
thickness, and hollowed in the middle about an Inch and a half deep.
This Stone should be fix'd upon a Frame of Wood or Iron, a little higher
on one side than the other: Under, they place a Pan of Coals to heat the
Stone, so that the Heat melting the oily Parts of the Kernels, and
reducing it to the Consistence of Honey, makes it easy for the Iron
Roller, which they make use of for the sake of its Strength, to make it
so fine as to leave neither Lump, nor the least Hardness. This Roller is
a Cylinder of polish'd Iron, two Inches in diameter, and about eighteen
long, having at each End a wooden Handle of the same Thickness, and six
Inches long, for the Workman to hold by.
When the Paste is ground as much as is thought necessary, they put it
hot in Moulds made of Tin, where they leave it, and it becomes hard in a
very little time. The Shape of these Moulds is arbitrary, and every one
may have them made according to his Fancy; but the cylindrick ones,
which will hold about 2 or 3 Pounds of Chocolate, seem to me to be most
proper; because the thicker they are, the longer they keep good, and may
be commodiously held when there is occasion to scrape them. These Rolls
ought to be wrapped in Paper, and kept in a dry Place: it should also be
observed, that they are very susceptible of good and ill Smells, and
that it is good to keep them 5 or 6 Months before they are used.
Now the Kernels being sufficiently rubb'd and ground upon the Stone, as
we have just directed, if you would compleat the Composition in the
Mass, there is nothing more to be done, than to add to this Paste a
Powder sifted thro a fine Searce, composed of Sugar, Cinnamon, and, if
it be desired, of _Vanilla_[c], according to the Quantities and
Proportions, which we shall teach in the Third Part of this Treatise;
and mix it well upon the Stone, the better to blend it and incorporate
it together, and then to fashion it in Moulds made of Tin in the form of
Lozenges of about 4 Ounces each, or if desired, half a Pound.
FOOTNOTES:
[y] For this reason, when they would send _Cocao-Nuts_ to the
neighbouring Islands from _Martinico_, that they may have wherewithal to
plant, they are very careful not to gather them till the Transport
Vessel is ready to sail, and to make use of them as soon as they arrive.
For this reason also it is not possible that the Spaniards, when they
design to preserve Nuts for planting, should let them be wither'd and
perfectly dry, and that afterwards they should take the Kernels of these
same Nuts, and dry them very carefully in the Shade, and after all,
raise a Nursery with them, as _Oexmelin_ reports, _History of
Adventurers_, Tom. 1. Pag. 424.
[7] See the seventh Note hereafter.
[8] The _Mahot_ is a Shrub, whose Leaves are round and feel soft like
those of _Guimauve_; its Bark easily comes off, which they divide into
long Slangs, which serves for Packthread and Cords to the Inhabitants
and Natives.
[z] It gets this Taste either by being laid in a moist Place, or by
being wet by Sea-Water in the Passage.
[a] As the Kernels are never so clean, but there may be Stones, Earth,
and bad ones among them; it will be necessary, before they are used, to
sift them in a Sieve that will let these things pass through, while it
retains the Kernels.
[b] The Artists, to make this Work more expeditious, and to gain time,
put a thick Mat upon a Table, and spread the Kernels upon it as they
come hot from the Shovel, and roll a Roller of Iron over them to crack
and get off the Skins of the Kernels; afterward they winnow all in a
splinter Sieve, till the Kernels become entirely cleansed.
[c] What this is, you will find hereafter.
THE
Natural HISTORY
OF
CHOCOLATE.