alignment of the vise with the mold. The studs often have a very
thin washer between their back shoulder and the frame to give them
the proper adjustment. Should it be necessary to remove or replace a
stud, be careful not to lose or leave out the washers. Neither should
more washers be added. To do so would force the vise in a strain when
locked up, and cause an improper height of the slug.
VISE JAWS
The vise jaws, between which the line is justified, regulates the
position of the face of the type on each end of the slug. The mold
liner regulates the length of the slug. The vise jaws should be
adjusted to have the face of the type flush with each end of the slug.
The short, or right-hand, jaw is adjusted by the adjusting screw in
the knife block, under the right-hand vise locking pin. When the
line is being justified, the matrix on the right-hand end is forced
against the face of the short jaw. The matrix on the left is forced
against the face of the long, or left-hand, jaw which is held tight
by the vise closing screw on the older models, or the vise closing
wedge on the newer models.
When it is desired to change the measure to be set, adjust the
left-hand jaw with the adjusting rod. One-half em is the shortest
distance the long jaw can be adjusted with the rod. If it is
necessary to adjust less than this distance use the adjusting bushing
which screws in the bracket. This applies to machines that are
equipped with the vise closing wedge.
On the older models, remove the screw that passes through the vise
closing screw arm and screws into the adjusting flange. Then adjust
the vise closing screws, which move the nut in or out.
PUMP STOP
The pump stop prevents the pump lever from operating if the line is
not properly justified. The short, or right-hand, vise jaw operates
the pump stop operating lever. When the line is justified the
right-hand jaw is moved to the right against the adjusting screw
in the operating lever which forces the stop lever from under the
catch block, allowing the pump lever to operate. If the line is not
justified, the right-hand jaw does not touch the adjusting screw
and the stop lever is allowed to remain under the catch block. This
prevents the pump lever from operating.
The pump stop should have 1/32 of an inch between the pump stop lever
and pot lever block when line is properly justified.
The pump stop lever is found under the pot lever block. It is
connected to a bracket by a screw, and operated by a spring and
operating lever. The adjustment is made with the screw in the
operating lever.
To test this adjustment, push the right-hand jaw toward the right and
observe if the lever is clearing the block the proper distance.
When the line is justified the pump stop operating lever, which is
forced to the right by the short vise jaw, should have a trifle lost
motion; if not, the position of the type on the right end of the slug
would be regulated by the adjusting screw in the pump stop operating
lever instead of the adjusting screw in the knife block.
THE FRICTION CLUTCH
The driving shaft of the machine is in two sections: The shaft
proper, and the short shaft that carries the driving pinion. This
pinion meshes with the driving gear, the two shafts being held
together by a taper pin. The driving pinion makes eleven revolutions
to one of the gear, the ratio being 11 to 1.
The outer end of the driving shaft is hollow. Inside of the hollow
shaft is a clutch rod and a spring. The spring fits against a collar
on this rod and draws the rod inward. The inner end of the clutch rod
is fastened by means of a long screw pin extending through a hole in
the rod to a collar which encircles the shaft, the hole in the shaft
being slotted, so that when the collar is moved the rod moves also.
On the outward end of the shaft is mounted the friction clutch, the
levers being fastened to the end of the clutch rod. The friction
clutch is keyed to the hollow shaft, so when the clutch is turned it
also turns the shaft.
Pressure on a forked lever fulcrumed to the base of the machine, one
end of which encircles the collar and the other end touching the
lower stop lever, holds the clutch out of action. When the pressure
of the forked lever against the collar is released, the clutch spring
expands and the clutch rod moves the collar inward until the leather
buffers are pushed against the inner surface of the driving pulley,
causing the shaft to rotate.
After the machine has made a complete revolution, a pawl on cam No.
10 contacts the upper stopping lever and through the lower stopping
lever forces the forked lever against the collar, throwing the
friction out of action.
THE CLUTCH SPRING
The clutch spring is held in place by a small collar on the inside
end of the clutch rod and a screw bushing on the outside, by which
the tension of the spring is regulated. This tension should be
sixteen to twenty pounds. A screw pin passes through a slot in the
shaft, through the clutch rod, and into the opposite side of the
collar. The outer end of the clutch rod is connected to the friction
clutch by a screw which passes through the clutch rod. By taking off
the clutch and hooking a balance spring in the screw hole in the rod
and pulling out on the scale, the instant the rod moves the scale
indicates the tension of the spring registered. One end of the clutch
rod is connected to the collar on the shaft, and the other end is
connected to the clutch. When the collar is moved the clutch rod also
moves in the same direction.
When the clutch rod spring is adjusted to a tension of 16 to 20
pounds it gives about the right friction to carry the machine through
all its operations where everything is working properly, but if
anything sticks or makes the machine run hard, the clutch will slip.
FRICTION CLUTCH ADJUSTMENTS
There are three positions of the starting and stopping lever:
Starting, operation, and stopping. When pulled all of the way out
the lever is in starting position. When the lever is in starting
position, the eccentric screw in the starting and stopping lever
pulls against the lug in the vertical lever and causes the upper lug
to force the automatic stopping pawl off the upper stopping lever.
This sets the machine in action. When the lever is half way out it is
in operating position and allows the machine to start when a line is
sent in. When the lever is pushed all the way in the clutch is thrown
out of action and the machine is stopped.
When making any adjustments, have the lever in starting position (out
as far as it will go). If the automatic stopping pawl is resting on
the upper stopping lever, the adjustments could not be made, as the
lower stopping lever would be forcing the forked lever against the
collar, throwing the friction clutch out of action.
The friction clutch should be adjusted so as to have 15/32 of an
inch between the collar and the shaft bearing. Place a 15/32 inch
gage between the right-hand side of the collar and the left-hand
side of the shaft bearing. If the distance is less than 15/32 of
an inch, dress the leather buffers with a file. If the distance is
more, place cardboard under the buffers to increase the thickness. On
old-style machines this adjustment was made by two nuts, one on each
side of the clutch rod. Putting cardboard under the buffers will not
satisfactorily drive the machine if something else is wrong. If there
is too much packing under the leathers the starting and stopping
lever will have no effect on the clutch and the machine will not stop
properly.
The upper stopping lever and the lower stopping lever are fastened
by pin pivots to a steel shaft which passes through the vertical
lever. This allows a limited up and down movement of the stopping
levers. The shaft is held in position by a set screw in the top of
the vertical lever bracket. When the machine is in action the forked
lever must be free of the collar. If it is not, the clutch does not
get the proper pressure on the inside of the pulley, because the
forked lever would push against the collar and force the rod and
clutch outward. To be sure the forked lever is free of the collar,
adjust so there is 1/32 of an inch between the lower stopping lever
and the forked lever. This adjustment is made by the screw in the
lower part of the upper stopping lever.
When the upper stopping pawl comes to rest on the upper stopping
lever, it forces the adjusting screw in the lower part of the upper
stopping lever against the lower stopping lever, and the bottom
end of the lower stopping lever causes the forked lever to force
the collar out, throwing the clutch out of action and stopping the
machine. This gives a horizontal movement from a vertical action.
The automatic stop pawl should rest on the upper stopping lever ¼
of an inch when the machine is at normal. This adjustment is made
by loosening the set screw which holds the shaft in the vertical
starting lever, and moving the lever sidewise. When the stopping
pawl rests ¼ of an inch on the upper stopping lever, the automatic
safety pawl will also rest on it exactly the same, as both pawls are
adjusted the same.
Fastened to cam No. 10 are two pawls. One is the automatic stopping
pawl and stops the machine after it has made one complete revolution.
The other is the automatic safety pawl, and stops the machine when
a line fails to transfer from the first to the second elevator.
These two pawls are adjusted by screws that pass through the pawl
and strike the lug of the cam, and are held against this lug with
a spring. The distance from the left-hand side of the pawl to the
left-hand side of the cam should be 15/16 of an inch.
The vertical lever is fastened to the column, at the back of the
machine above the forked lever, by a hexagon head machine screw at
its upper end. The lower end is held in place by the shaft which
passes through the lever into the machine frame. The only time the
vertical lever is in action is when the machine is started by the
starting and stopping lever. On the starting lever is an eccentric
screw which stands behind the lower lug of the vertical lever. When
the starting and stopping lever is pulled out, the eccentric screw
engages the lower lug and pulls it forward, causing the upper lug to
push the stopping or safety pawls clear of the upper stopping lever.
There are three lugs on the vertical lever: The upper lug, the lower
lug, and the lug inside of the bracket.
There is a headless screw in the vertical lever bracket, the front
end encircled by a spring. This spring forces the vertical lever
back to its normal position after the lever has been pulled forward
by the starting and stopping lever. When pulled forward, the upper
lug strikes against the automatic stopping pawl forcing it clear of
the upper stopping lever. This adjustment is made by means of the
headless screw in the lever bracket. The proper adjustment forces
the stopping pawl 1/16 of an inch clear of the upper stopping lever.
The lug inside the bracket should permit the upper lug to clear
the stopping pawl 1/64 of an inch when the lug is at rest. This
adjustment is made by turning the adjusting screw in the column
opposite the headless screw. This screw regulates the stroke of the
inner lug.
Unless the upper vertical lug, after pushing the stopping pawls
off the upper stopping lever, returns clear of the pawls, it would
prevent the pawls from seating properly on the upper stopping lever.
The adjustment of the lower lug of the vertical lever and the
eccentric screw on the starting lever should be made by releasing the
set nut on the eccentric screw and turning the screw until there is
1/32 of an inch between the screw and the lug. If this adjustment is
not properly made it will interfere with the upper lug and throw it
out of adjustment.
FRICTION CLUTCH HINTS
To remove the friction clutch: Push in on the starting and stopping
lever. Take out the fulcrum screw or remove the nut from the outer
end of the clutch rod. Remove the clutch arm key screw. The clutch
can now be removed. Be careful in replacing the friction to have the
key with the bevel down and toward the back of the keyway.
The driving pulleys or gear can be removed only when the friction
clutch is removed.
To remove the clutch rod spring: Remove the friction clutch. Unscrew
the screw bushing from the end of the shaft, take out the screw
extending through the collar, and pull out the clutch rod and the
spring.
If the machine stops on the upper stopping lever with a jerk, the
inner side of the driving pulley or the friction clutch leathers are
gummy or the friction is out of adjustment.
The inner surface of the driving pulley must be kept clean.
If the machine slows up while casting or ejecting, the clutch is
slipping.
The 15/32 of an inch adjustment is made by the nut on the clutch rod
on the old style, and by building up under the leathers on the new.
The 1/32 of an inch adjustment is made by the screw in the lower part
of the upper stopping lever.
The machine will not stop when the key screw in the clutch arm works
loose, allowing the friction clutch to work toward the outer end of
the shaft.
A screw holding the clutch leather shoe in place, may extend above
the shoe and cause the friction to slip.
The friction link collar, where it fastens on to the clutch rod,
should be parallel with the driving pulley or gear when the machine
is in operating position; if not, there is unequal pressure on the
links and shoes, causing a slipping clutch.
Study the friction clutch adjustments, but do not change them every
time something stops the machine. It is much easier to break an
adjustment than to make one.
A piece of metal from a squirt lodged between the mold disk guide or
back of the rim on the disk will cause it to bind, placing more pull
on the clutch.
STAY BOLT
The stay bolt passes through the main cam shaft bracket cap and
screws into the column. The object of the stay bolt is to take the
strain from the column. When the machine is in casting position with
the pot locking against the mold, the mold and disk forcing against
the vise, and the right-hand side of the vise locking against the
stud, there is considerable strain on the column. If the column
should spring, the vise would also move and the lockup would be
imperfect. In applying the stay bolt, never tighten it with a wrench.
If too tight, it will spring the bracket cap and cause the cam shaft
to bind and the clutch will not drive the machine. Screw it in with
your fingers until the head of the bolt bears lightly against the
bracket.
VISE AUTOMATIC
The purpose of the vise automatic is to prevent the mold from coming
forward and shearing the lugs of the matrices whenever anything
prevents the first elevator from descending low enough for the first
elevator adjusting screw to rest on the vise cap.
The vise automatic consists of a stop rod, stop rod pawl, mold disk
dog, and vise automatic levers.
The stop rod is suspended and held upward by a spring, the top end of
the rod extending through the vise cap and the lower end resting back
of the lever which operates against the clutch rod.
A little below center in the stop rod is the stop rod pawl. This pawl
is held in place in a slot by a small coil spring which sets just
back of the pawl in the stop rod. This spring, in addition to holding
the pawl in place, also gives the pawl a little play which allows
more of a bite when the pawl is placed in action.
The mold disk dog is held in the vise frame by a screw which extends
downward through a slotted hole in the dog. Inside the mold disk dog
is a coil spring. This spring is to hold the dog back toward the mold
and should be strong enough to keep the mold disk dog pin against the
retaining screw when the vise automatic is not in action.
When the first elevator is in its lowest position the vise automatic
adjusting screw touches the upper end of the stop rod and forces it
downward. When the mold slide advances, the mold opposite the one
in use pushes the mold disk dog out, above the pawl, and allows the
machine to remain in action. However, should the first elevator fail
to descend low enough for the stop rod to be pushed down, the dog, as
it is advanced by the mold, strikes against the pawl and forces it
forward against the vise automatic levers, stopping the machine.
The mold disk dog must clear the automatic stop rod when the first
elevator adjusting screw is resting on the vise cap.
To make this adjustment turn the machine until the first elevator
is resting on the vise cap. Move the adjusting screw so the stop
rod pawl will just pass below the dog. To test, have machine in
normal position, place a thin matrix on the vise cap under the first
elevator adjusting screw. Pull out on the starting and stopping
lever, setting the machine in action. The first elevator, not going
to its proper position, the driving clutch should be forced out of
action by the vise automatic. After backing the machine a trifle and
removing the matrix, the machine should start.
The machine will not stop when making this test, if either the lip
of the disk dog, or the pawl is damaged. If damaged or worn, replace
with new parts, as the vise automatic should always be in working
condition.
If the machine is delayed in stopping when the vise automatic goes
into action, look at the 15/32 and 1/32 inch adjustments on the
friction clutch.
When replacing the mold disk dog, be sure that the screw goes between
the spring and the pin. This is accomplished by turning the screw
down until it is below the level of the pin. Then push in on the dog
until the pin strikes the screw. Raise the screw slowly until the
pin will just pass under the end of the screw, pushing in on the dog
while the screw is being raised. Push in on the dog and turn the
screw down just inside the pin. The screw will then be between the
spring and the pin. Be careful not to turn the screw down on the
spring, as it will damage the spring and not allow the dog to operate.
On the machines with four-pocket mold disks, the dog is pushed
forward as the mold slide comes forward in ejecting position. This
action of the dog would operate the automatic, throwing the clutch
out of action and stopping the machine at ejecting position. To
overcome this action, there is a stop rod lever and bracket assembled
on the vise frame in front of the automatic stop lever. The lever is
fastened to the bracket by a fulcrum screw. One end of this lever
carries a small roller, and the other end rests above a pin in the
stop rod. The roller runs on a runway at the back of the first
elevator slide on the right-hand side. The stop rod is pulled down
below the mold disk dog by the lever until the slide moves downward,
the roller follows the runway, when owing to a depression, the roller
drops, releasing the lever and permitting the stop rod to come
to operating position in front of the dog. As the slide moves to
transfer position, the lever pulls the stop rod down below the dog.
FILLING PIECE AND SAFETY LUG
Attached to all new machines is a filling piece that is known as
the simple two-letter attachment. This attachment is fastened by
two screws to the vise cap, and when in operating position, it
prevents the first elevator from dropping down to normal position.
This attachment permits the assembling of a line of matrices in the
regular position and casting them in the auxiliary position. Whenever
this attachment is used, the duplex rails on the assembling elevator
must not be used.
On all machines carrying headletter or special display molds, the
simple two-letter attachment must always be used instead of the
duplex rails.
At the side of these special molds there is a small lug fastened to
the mold disk. This is known as a safety stop. When operating, a
machine equipped with these special molds, if the simple two-letter
attachment should not be placed in position, this safety stop would
immediately come in contact with a safety plate, fastened to the
first elevator back jaw, holding the first elevator off the vise cap
and allowing the vise automatic to stop the machine, preventing a
squirt, and damage to the first elevator jaws.
MODEL 9
The Model 9 is equipped with four superimposed interchangeable
magazines, any-one of which may be instantly brought into use by
merely shifting a lever. These magazines are not interchangeable with
the No. 5 magazines. The machine is built along the same general
lines of all Linotypes and has a regular keyboard of 90 characters.
The magazines may be changed from the front of the machine. Each
magazine is provided with escapements controlling the delivery of
the matrices. These escapements are actuated by a single series of
escapement rods mounted in a frame on the assembler front. Each
rod has four notches in its edge. Shifting the hand lever raises
or lowers the frame in which the rods are assembled and connects
their upper ends with the escapements of any one of the magazines.
This same movement connects these rods through one of the series
of notches to the keyrods which are operated by the usual keyboard
mechanism.
Each magazine has a standard type distributing mechanism. The machine
has a primary distributor box for all the magazine through which the
matrices must pass before passing to their regular distributor. The
dropping of the matrices into their right magazines is governed by
a series of slot combinations cut in the bottom of the matrix and a
corresponding bridge placed in the primary box. A mixed line out of
any two or all four of the magazines may be set in this machine, the
matrices being separated in the primary distributor and then dropping
into their regular magazine.
TABULAR ATTACHMENTS
There are two attachments in common use for setting tabular
composition. These are the Chicago Lino-Tabler and the Rogers Tabular.
The Chicago Lino-Tabler equipment can be used on any model machine
with any font of matrices from 5 point up to and including 14 point.
This equipment consists of twenty matrices, a broach, quad block and
slide for casting box rules, and special triangular-shaped brass rule
for use between columns.
The matrices are cut to run in the vertical rule channel. In the
matrices are two small slots from which two lugs or fins are cast on
the slug. When using these matrices on the models 9, 16, 17, and 24,
the magazine in which they are to run must be designated.
There are four styles of rule available, two hairline faces, a
one-point face, and parallel rules. The rules are held on the top
surface of the slugs, and are clamped down by bending the lugs or
fins over with a make-up rule.
Cross rule is cast in the regular slug form from the block and slide.
Box headings or rule forms are made by using the broach which punches
small triangular notches through the top edge of the rule slug. This
permits the vertical rule to be inserted, forming a close joint.
The Rogers Tabular can only be used on machines that are equipped
with the attachment. When using this attachment the matrices that
run in the vertical rule channel are used in the assembled line
where rules are wanted. From these matrices on the slug are cast
two slots in which the rules are inserted. All other characters are
punched .144 of an inch deeper than the standard, which necessitates
using a low mold. When changing from regular to tabular, first turn
the tabular mold into normal position; second, move lever which is
attached to the eccentric pin in the mold cam lever so it is locked
in the rear sector block. Doing so moves the mold slide forward the
difference in the thickness of the regular and low mold. Third,
loosen screw and turn eccentric bushing in pot lever half way, which
moves pot forward the distance the mold slide has been moved. Fourth,
connect one end of the return spring to the hook which is in the rear
of the machine. This spring is for the purpose of relieving the mold
cam lever of the added strain when the slug is moved from the line
after casting. It is also necessary to use the tabular spacebands,
which also can be used with standard matrices.
ADVERTISING FIGURES