Constant use causes the under side of the lug to wear, and when
spacebands with badly worn lugs are mixed together with new
spacebands, difficulty frequently arises and they occasionally clog
in the chute when released by touching the spacebar. The only remedy
is to send the offending spaceband to the factory to be repaired.
SPACEBAND BOX PAWLS AND RAILS
If the trouble is due to worn or dirty pawls, they can be taken out
in the following manner: Remove the spaceband box from the machine,
release the tension of the pawl springs by unscrewing the small screw
that holds the spring, then take out the pawl screw and lift the
pawl out of the box. If the pawls are to be replaced by new ones,
select two that are the same height. Test the pawls for height by
placing a small wooden plug in the pivot hole of the two pawls. The
points should be the same distance from the pivot holes. If the old
pawls are to be used, mark one pawl, so that they will not get mixed;
for after they have been used, they should be kept in their regular
place. Measure the pawls for height and also examine them to see
if the points are worn. If uneven and the points dull, they can be
rubbed down on an oil stone to get them even. After they are the same
height, sharpen them on an oil stone, being careful to maintain the
same bevel.
To work well, the pawls must be even as to height and at the points.
If the pawls are rusty or gummy they can be cleaned by rubbing them
on crocus cloth and polishing with graphite.
If the spaceband box rails are to be replaced with new ones, the box
must be taken apart. Remove the box from the machine. Remove the
chute plate. Drive out the taper pin which holds the pawl levers to
the lever shaft, and take off the levers. Take out the pawls, unscrew
the two large screws, and pry the two castings apart. Take off the
center bar plate by removing the two round head screws. Remove the
old rails. Put on the new ones by fitting them on the dowel pins,
using care to have the vertical face of the rails even. It is always
best to renew the pawls at the same time new rails are put on.
TO REPLACE SPACEBAND BOX PAWLS
To replace the spaceband box pawls, loosen the screw which holds
the pawl spring to the pawl lever, unscrew the lifting pawl screw,
place pawl in the box, screw up on the lifting screw, being careful
to guide the screw into the hole on the pawl. Place the spring in
the pawl slot before the pawl lift screw is drawn tight. Tighten
the spring screw, which holds the spring against the pawl, until the
screw is tight.
The pawl should rest against the back of the pawl guide firmly. Try
the pawl to see if the spring has the proper tension and that the
pawl is not bent so it does not work freely.
LINE DELIVERY SLIDE
The delivery slide consists of two slides which move in a slideway, a
long finger, short finger, delivery slide rod, and adjusting clamp.
The slide is connected by a lever link, lever, shaft, and split cam
lever, to a roller which operates against the surface of cam No. 10.
The slide gets its action, when delivering a line, from a strong coil
spring in the column of the machine which is connected to a lug on
the shaft. The slide is returned to normal by cam action, the roller
being held against and following the surface of cam No. 10.
When the line delivery slide is in normal position, it is prevented
from sliding into the first elevator jaws by the delivery pawl, which
is under the spaceband box, held to the face by a screw, and operated
by a spring.
This pawl has a notch on the lower side, which acts as a safety
to prevent the slide being pulled to the left, in case it is not
returned quite far enough for the end of the pawl to pass the catch.
When the slide has returned to normal position, the short finger
should go not more than 1/16 of an inch beyond the end of the pawl.
If the finger returns more than this distance, the short finger will
be forced against the spaceband box chute and cause it to spring, and
very likely cause delay in dropping of the spacebands.
The return adjustment is made by moving the split cam lever in or
out. First remove the spaceband box so as to have a clear view of the
pawl and finger. Then turn the main cams by hand until just before
the high part of cam No. 10 is opposite the split cam lever roller.
Place the short finger back of the delivery pawl, in normal position.
Hold the lever and roller against the cam and tighten the screws in
the split cam lever. This should cause the short finger on the slide
to be returned not more than 1/16 of an inch beyond the pawl.
This adjustment is approximate, however, due to wear on the
connecting parts of the slide on machines which have been in use for
some time. The adjustment is made on the older model machines, which
do not have the split cam lever, by the eccentric pin on the slide
lever.
Near the right end of the first elevator jaws are two spring pawls
which prevent the matrices from falling out while the line is going
to casting position. The short finger should stop 13/32 of an inch
inside of the first elevator. The last matrix on the right-hand end
of the line will then be inside the two pawls. This adjustment is
made by the screw in the slideway on the left end of the face plate,
against which the slide comes to a stop.
When the slide stops against the adjusting screw in the slideway, the
casting mechanism will be set in action. It is started by the roller
on the split cam lever, which comes in contact with the automatic
stopping pawl on cam No. 10, forcing it from the upper stopping
lever, and the machine goes into action. It should not start before
the line delivery slide has come to a stop against the adjusting
screw on the face plate. If it did, the last matrix in the line would
not be inside the spring pawls in the first elevator. The plate,
which is held to the automatic stopping pawl by a screw on the lower
end, is adjustable. Loosening the lower and turning the upper screw
to the left will move the plate closer to the split lever or roller
and the machine will be set in action sooner; moving the screw to the
right, the reverse. This plate should be adjusted so as to knock the
automatic stop pawl off upper stopping lever not less than 1/64 of an
inch.
The short finger is at the right of the slide and acts as a support
for the right end of the matrix line while it is being transferred to
the first elevator jaws. There is a small extension at the top of the
short finger which engages the delivery pawl and holds the slide in
normal position until the assembling elevator is raised to send in a
line. The short finger is not adjustable.
The long finger is fastened to the left of the slide. It is the
support for the left end of the matrix line while it is being
transferred to the vise jaws. The long finger is adjusted by means
of the clamp. It is necessary to readjust this finger when the
measure is changed. The long finger must be kept straight so it hangs
vertically on the machine. If bent either forward or backward it will
wear the assembling elevator. If the bottom is bent to the right, it
may interfere with the assembler slide, or the last matrix in the
line may not get inside the first elevator jaw pawls, thereby binding
the matrix. If bent to the left it will bind full lines of matrices
as they are being raised by the assembling elevator and cause the
slide to travel slowly.
The air chamber, which regulates the speed at which the slide
travels, is fastened to the rear of the column and is connected to
the split cam lever by means of a link. This link is also connected
to the delivery air cushion piston, which operates in the air
cylinder. As the slide moves over to the left this piston is forced
upward into the cylinder. The speed is regulated by an air vent and
cover at the top of the cylinder. Opening up the vent allows the air
to escape quicker which in turn allows the slide to move to the left
faster. The slide should not go over with too much force or it will
have a tendency to loosen the screws in the delivery slide.
The lever link, which is the connection between the delivery slide
and delivery lever, has a stud which fastens in a depression in the
delivery lever and is held by a small plate and two screws. The other
end of the lever has a notch that fits over a shoulder screw at the
left of the rear side of the delivery slide. The link is held on this
screw by means of a long, flat spring. The spring holds the link on
the screw except when there is an undue strain on the delivery slide
caused by something interfering with the free return of the slide.
When the strain becomes too great, the spring permits the link to
slip off the shoulder screw, disconnecting the slide from the lever
to prevent breakage. To connect the link it is only necessary to
relieve the strain on the delivery slide and push the link and the
shoulder screw together.
The slideway should be well lubricated at all times to prevent undue
wear on the sliding parts. Dry graphite will give more uniform action
than oil on the slideway. If oil has been used on the slideway, it
should be thoroughly cleaned before using graphite.
METAL POT
The metal pot consists of the pot jacket and pot crucible. The jacket
is the outside casting. The crucible fits into the jacket, allowing
space between the crucible and jacket for asbestos packing. The
crucible is held in place in the jacket by three lugs, which keep
it stationary in the jacket. All the space between the crucible and
jacket is packed tightly with powdered asbestos which has been mixed
with a little water until a paste is formed. This insulation is for
the purpose of holding the heat in the crucible.
It is very important that every pot should be well insulated or
packed. If there is poor packing the crucible can not hold the heat.
The result being poor slugs, and the consequent use of more gas than
is necessary. If the machine takes an excessive gas flame to keep the
metal in working condition, look for poor insulation.
The well of the pot, which contains the metal before it is forced
through the mouthpiece by the plunger, must have sufficient metal
under the plunger to form a perfect slug when a cast is made. For
that reason two holes are drilled in the well, one on each side,
which allows the metal to enter the well. If the holes become closed,
which they sometimes do if the well is not cleaned regularly, the
slug will be hollow. They should be kept open, using the end of the
mouthpiece wiper, which is bent at a right angle and pointed. The
metal pot has a capacity of 38 pounds of metal.
METAL POT PLUNGER
The metal is forced by the plunger from the well, through the throat
of the crucible, into the mold cell, and up against the line of
matrices aligned in front of the mold.
When the machine is in normal position, the plunger should be high
enough in the well to permit the metal to run into the well through
the holes in the sides. If the plunger does not set above the holes,
the metal can not flow into the well and throat, so when the line is
cast the slug will appear porous or spongy and of light weight.
If a plunger is worn, it will permit the metal to escape around the
sides of the plunger when the cast is made, giving a poor slug. To
remedy this trouble it is sometimes necessary to put in a new plunger
a trifle oversize (.005), and fit it to the well.
A dirty plunger may bind and cause a splash of metal to be ejected
before the pot locks up tight and, chilling on the back of the mold,
prevent a lockup, so the metal will flow out over the back of the
disk when the plunger acts. A dirty plunger will often cause a slug
to have the appearance of cold metal. Keep the plunger and the well
of the pot clean.
Any kind of a wire brush may be used to clean a plunger, but the
Ewald cleaning box is recommended, because it keeps all the dust
confined in the box. There are several kinds of brushes and scrapers
manufactured for use in cleaning the well. Use whatever method
desired, but be sure it keeps the well clean.
If using a rotary well brush to clean the walls of the well, be sure
to turn it always to the right, otherwise the bristles may break off
and stay in the well.
If a plunger should stick in the well very tightly, raise the
temperature a little, apply a wrench to the plunger rod and twist it
carefully. Do not use too much force or the rod may be broken. If a
plunger sticks so that it can not be removed by the above method, dip
enough metal out of the crucible to expose the well; squirt some oil
between the plunger and the inside wall of the well, or drop a piece
of tallow in the well; let it stand for a few minutes, after which
the plunger can usually be loosened with the wrench as described. Do
not pry up on the plunger for there is danger of breaking the rod.
When the plunger forces the metal through the throat of the crucible,
there will be nothing to retard the flow of metal against the face
of the matrices if the throat of the crucible is clean. However, if
the throat should be stopped up with dross or dirt, retarding the
flow of metal, the face of the slug would be glassy, and have the
appearance of cold metal.
CLEANING THE THROAT OF CRUCIBLE
To eliminate a stoppage in the throat it is sometimes necessary to
remove the mouthpiece and scrape out the throat, using a throat
scraper to cut away the accumulation of dirt and dross.
The scraper sold by the Linotype Company is recommended for the
purpose. Care must be used to get the throat clean. Hold a receptacle
that does not leak up in front of the crucible mouth and force the
plunger down by hand. This will flush the throat of any floating
particles of dross.
Sometimes melted tallow, paraffin oil, or machine oil will open up
the throat, by being used in the following manner: Dip the metal
out of the pot to about an inch below the top of the well, remove
the plunger, pour the melted tallow, paraffin oil, or machine oil
into the well and replace the plunger. Cast a few blank slugs. After
casting about six or seven slugs, fill the metal pot full of metal,
recast blank slugs until you have filled the stick. The effect of
the tallow or oil is to break up the dross and dirt into such fine
particles, that whatever has accumulated in the throat will be forced
out through the holes in the mouthpiece. This will cause considerable
smoke in the room unless you have a ventilating system. Be sure to
clean your vise jaws and mold after you have finished, for they will
be covered with oil. It is not necessary to remove the mouthpiece for
this operation so consequently considerable time can be saved. But if
the throat is very dirty, this method will not work satisfactorily.
CRACKED CRUCIBLE
Crucibles are sometimes cracked from too much heat when the gas is
first lighted. When the gas is turned on full at first, the metal in
the bottom of the pot is melted before the metal in the upper part
gets very hot. This metal in the bottom expands and powerful pressure
is exerted on the walls of the well and lower part of the crucible.
To eliminate this danger the gas should be turned on about half
force for about twenty minutes, or until the metal becomes warm and
expanded, after which the gas may be turned on full force.
Ordinarily it takes about one hour and a half to melt the metal and
have it ready for use. The small cracks which are made in the bottom
of the crucible when first heating the pot will usually be closed by
the heat of the burner after the pressure is released.
To remove an old crucible: Dip out as much metal as possible, turn
out the fire, remove the four pot jacket cover screws, take off
the cover, dig out part of the old asbestos, release the screw
that clamps the left-hand crucible lug to the jacket, lift out the
crucible, clean all of the old asbestos out of the inside of the
jacket.
To put in a new crucible: The pot jacket should be lined with the
asbestos about an inch thick on the inside, except in the front part
where the burners are located. Place the crucible in position. Care
should be taken to see that it fits firmly in its proper position.
Pack the asbestos around the crucible, tamping it down with a stick,
and filling in all the spaces. Cover the well of the crucible with
a rag while packing, so that none of the asbestos will get into the
well. On completion of the packing, place the pot jacket cover in
position, and fasten it down firmly with the four pot jacket screws,
which extend down through the cover, into the pot jacket.
MOUTHPIECES
One of the most important parts of the pot crucible, is the
mouthpiece. The mouthpiece on all standard machines contains thirty
holes (size 51), one hole for each pica of the slug, through which
the metal flows into the mold cell to form a slug.
At the present time there are two styles of mouthpieces in general
use: The wedge mouthpiece which has a gib or wedge to fasten it
in the slot of the crucible to make a tight fit; and the screw
mouthpiece which fastens on to the crucible by means of screws.
On all mouthpieces small cross vents are cut downward between each
of the holes. There is also a vent which is cut from the first hole
on the right-hand end of the mouthpiece. The cross vents allow the
air to escape from the mold cell as the metal is forced in. These
vents play a very important part in the casting of good slugs. If the
vents are stopped up with dross or cold metal, the air can not escape
from the mold cell. This causes a slug with air bubbles, making a
light-weight slug. These air bubbles, when near the face of the type,
allow the letters to be crushed in when put under pressure on the
press. Also, the entire slug may be forced down, causing much delay
in printing.
Care must be taken in cutting the vents in a mouthpiece so they do
not extend very far above the top of the holes in the mouthpiece and
that they are not too deep. They should be deep in the center and
come to a very fine edge at the ends. All that is needed is to get
the air out of the mold quickly. Ordinarily this can be accomplished
by cleaning the vents with a sharp pointed scraper but be careful
not to mar the mouthpiece. When the vents are opened properly there
should be a sprue of metal below the vents on the back of the mold
about ½ to ¾ of an inch long after the slug is cast.
A vent that is cut too deep will have too much sprue, causing an
unnecessary amount of shavings on the floor and about the machine,
and sometimes causing machine troubles.
It should seldom be necessary to drill out the holes in a mouthpiece.
If the metal is properly cared for in remelting, and the mouthpiece
is kept at the proper temperature, the metal will usually flow freely
through the holes. However, if it is found necessary to drill out
the holes, never use larger than a 1/16 inch or No. 51 drill, which
will not make the holes larger than their original size. When using
the drill, it should be immersed in oil after each hole is drilled,
to prevent the drill from becoming too hot and breaking off in the
hole. Enlarging the mouthpiece holes will work satisfactorily on
large faces 8-point or above; but when the smaller faces are used the
product will not have a clear-cut face.
TO REMOVE A MOUTHPIECE
When it is necessary to remove a mouthpiece for cleaning out the
throat of the crucible, mark a line on the face of the crucible to
align with the first hole on the right end of the mouthpiece. When
replacing the mouthpiece the line will be your guide. By so adjusting
there will be a full hole on each end of the slug when casting the
different lengths, with the exception of half-pica measures. A hole
on the adjustable or left end being partly covered by the liner in
the mold would cause no trouble. If part of the first hole should be
covered by the constant liner, the first letter on the right end of
the slug would be blurred, or would not cast sharply, because the
metal cools quickly on the ends of the mold, and a full, free flow is
necessary.
The mouthpiece should always be removed when the metal is hot. If
removed when cold there would be danger of breaking the pot crucible.
When removing the wedge style mouthpiece, place the vise in second
position, lift out the mold slide, place a block of wood between
the right side of the pot jacket and the slideway, drive the
mouthpiece toward the keyboard, using a piece of brass as a drift.
The above operation is necessary to loosen the wedge. The instant the
mouthpiece moves, the wedge will become loose and can be lifted out.
Another method of removal is to grip the left-hand end of the gib
with a pair of pliers, pulling the end of the gib forward and
wrapping it around the pliers, prying against a piece of brass rule
placed along the face of the mouthpiece. Care must be used in this
method to hold the pliers at such an angle that the lip of the
crucible will not be damaged while removing the gib.
Always have a new gib on hand before removing a mouthpiece, for it is
difficult to use an old one in replacing a mouthpiece.
In replacing an old mouthpiece, extreme care must be taken to see
that it is perfectly clean and straight. Clean the mouthpiece
thoroughly and with a straight-edge test the mouthpiece to see that
it is straight. If not, straighten it, being careful not to damage.
This need not be done with a new mouthpiece.
Before placing the mouthpiece in the crucible, remove the left-hand
vise locking stud nut and pull out the stud. Be careful not to lose
the small brass washer which is on the stud. The removal of the stud
permits the sliding in of the mouthpiece easily. The lips and the
slot of the crucible, which are the seat for the mouthpiece, must be
entirely free from all dirt and dross or the mouthpiece can not seat
properly.
It is best to fit a mouthpiece to its seat by placing a very thin
coating of fine emery and oil (fine valve grinding compound is good)
on the back and top part of the mouthpiece. This method cleans the
seat of all the accumulated dross and dirt. Place the mouthpiece in
position in the pot so the top of mouthpiece is against the top seat
and move back and forth, bearing lightly against the mouthpiece,
until the high spots are ground down, so as to have the seat
straight. When doing this, care must be taken not to get the paste
on any other part of the machine, as it might cause trouble. The
metal should be at casting temperature while fitting a mouthpiece.
To hold the mouthpiece for this operation, procure a piece of wood
furniture the same width and length of the mouthpiece, fasten this
to the mouthpiece by driving a headless brad in each end of the wood
directly in line with the last hole on each end of the mouthpiece.
By placing the wood on the mouthpiece the brads pass through the two
holes and make a very serviceable holder.
After fitting the mouthpiece, thoroughly clean all parts of the
crucible lip, slot, and mouthpiece. The least particle of grit may
cause trouble.
Fit the gib by dressing it, so that it will drive far enough to the
right to make a tight fit. Cover the top and bottom with a thin
coating of red lead and oil. Place the mouthpiece in position, the
first hole in line with the mark on the crucible. Insert the wedge
in the lower side and push it in as far as possible with a pair of
pliers. Then drive in the gib so as to secure the mouthpiece firmly.
Be careful that the mouthpiece does not move as the gib is being
driven in. Lay a brass rule against the whole length of the gib and
tap lightly with a hammer to firmly locate the gib on the seat, and
at the same time, bring the outer edge of the gib slightly below the
face of the mouthpiece.
After driving the mouthpiece to its proper position see that the
ends are not burred; if so, file them off, as they might prevent the
mouthpiece from locking up properly against the mold, and cause a
back squirt.
The screw mouthpiece is held to the crucible by 13 screws. The screw
holes in the mouthpiece are counter-sunk so the heads of these screws
will not extend beyond the face of the mouthpiece.
To remove the screw style mouthpiece from the crucible, use the pot
mouth screw loosener obtainable from the Linotype Company. Fit the
loosener in the groove of the screw and tap the head with a hammer.
As the screws will be tight, due to the heat and dross, this tapping
will loosen them without damaging the screw heads. The screws can
then be removed with a screw-driver.
Some features of the new mouthpiece are: There is no danger of
breaking the lips of the crucible by driving the wedge in too far;
it also eliminates the possibilities of battering the ends of the
mouthpiece, as with the wedge style; leaking around the mouthpiece
and improper setting when taken off and replaced is less likely to
occur.