This gulf is above 700 leagues across,[300] and they crossed it from
side to side, and came to a very large city, larger than Lisbon,
inhabited by Christians, and called Chalichut.
On both sides of this gulf there is a dense population of Moors, with
great towns and castles.[301] At the termination of this gulf there
is a strait[302] like that of Romania,[303] and having passed through
this strait there is another and greater gulf, which is the Red Sea.
And from the right hand of this to the house of Mecca, where is the
tomb of Mohammed, is 3 days’ journey by land. At the said house of
Mecca is a very great town of Moors. I am of opinion that this is the
Gulf of Arabia,[304] concerning which Pliny wrote that Alexander the
Great went there, to make war, as also did the Romans, who took all
by war.
[_Chalichut._]
Let us return to the above-named city of Chalichut, which is bigger
than Lisbon, and peopled by Christian Indians, as said.[305]
In this city are churches with bells,[306] but there are no priests,
and the divine offices are not performed nor sacrificial [masses]
celebrated, but in each church there is a pillar holding water, in
the manner of the fonts holding our holy water, and a second pillar
with balm. They bathe once every 3 years in a river which is near the
city.[307] The houses in this city are of stone and mortar, in the
Moorish style, and the roads laid out and straight as are these.[308]
[_An Audience._]
And the king of this city is waited upon in grand style (molto
altamente), and keeps regal state, having his chamberlains,
door-keepers, and barons,[309] as also a very sumptuous palace.
When the captain of the said vessel arrived at the city the king was
away at a castle at a distance of about 6 leagues, and having been
informed that Christians had arrived he at once came to the city
attended by about 5000 persons.[310] After the lapse of 3 days the
king sent for the captain, who had stayed in his vessel. The captain,
with xii of his men, went at once, and about 5000 persons accompanied
him from the shore as far as the palace of the king, at the gate of
which stood x doorkeepers with silver-mounted sticks. Having entered
he proceeded to a chamber where the king reposed upon a low couch.
The whole of the floor was covered with green velvet,[311] whilst
around it was drapery of variously-coloured damask. The couch had a
very fine white coverlet, all worked with gold thread, and above it
was a canopy, very white, delicate and sumptuous.
The king at once asked[312] the captain what he had come to seek.
The captain replied that it was the custom among Christians that when
an ambassador had to deliver his message to a prince he should do so
in secret and not in public. The king, upon this, ordered all his
people outside. The captain then said that the King of Portugal had
long since heard of his Highness (alteza) and that he was a Christian
king. Being desirous of his friendship he had been ordered to visit
him, as was the custom between Christian kings.
The king received this message (ambascata) most graciously, and
ordered the Christian captain to be lodged in the house of a very
rich Moor.
[_Moorish Merchants._]
In this city there reside many very wealthy Moorish merchants, and
all the trade is in their hands.[313] They have a fine mosque[314] in
the square of the town. The king is, as it were, governed by these
Moors because of the presents which they give him; and owing to their
industry[315] the government is wholly in their hands, for these
Christians are coarse people.
[_Spice Trade._]
All kinds of spices are to be found in this city of Chalichut, such
as cinnamon, pepper, ginger, frankincense, lac; and brazil-wood
abounds in the forests. These spices do not grow here, but[316] in
a certain island at a distance of 160 leagues from this city, near
the mainland. It can be reached overland in xx days and is inhabited
by Moors.[317] All the above spices are brought to this city as to a
staple.[318]
[_Coins._]
The coins most in circulation in this city are serafins of fine gold,
coined by the Sultan of Babylonia,[319] which weigh 2 or 3 grains
less than a ducat, and are called serafins.[320] There also circulate
some Venetian and Genoese ducats, as also small silver coins, which
must likewise be of the coinage of said sultan.
[_Merchandise._]
There is abundance of silken stuffs, namely, velvets of various
colours,[321] satins, damask, taffetas, brocades worked in gold,
scarlet cloth, brass and tin ware.[322] In fine, all these things are
to be found in abundance, and it is my opinion that the cloths worked
in gold and the silks are brought thither from Cairo.
[_Shipping._]
The Portuguese remained three months at that town, namely, from May
21[323] to August 25, and during that time there arrived about 1,500
Moorish vessels in search of spices. The largest of these vessels did
not exceed 800 tons.[324] They are of all sorts, large and small.
Having only one mast they can make headway only with the wind astern,
and sometimes are obliged to wait from four to six months for fair
weather [the monsoon or season].
Many of these vessels are lost.[325] They are badly built,[326] and
very frail. They carry neither arms nor artillery.
The vessels which visit the islands to carry spices to this city of
Chalichut are flat-bottomed, so as to draw little water, for there
are many dry places (shoals). Some of these vessels are built without
any nails or iron,[327] for they have to pass over the loadstone.
All the vessels, as long as they remain at this city, are drawn
up on the beach, for there is no port where they would be safe
otherwise.[328]
[_Prices._]
A load of cinnamon equal to 5 Lisbon cantars[329] is worth in
that city between x and xii ducats, or serafins, at most; but in
the islands where it is collected it is worth only half that sum.
Pepper and cloves are rated similarly. Ginger[330] and cinnamon are
worth more than any other spices, but lac is worth next to nothing,
and they ballast their vessels with it, that is calk them.[331]
Brazil-wood abounds in the forests.
In payment they only take gold and silver; coral and other
merchandise of our parts they esteem but little,[332] linen-cloth
excepted, which I believe would find a ready market, as the sailors
bartered some of their shirts very profitably for spices, although
very fine white linen cloth, probably imported from Cairo, is found
there.
There is a custom-house in this city as elsewhere, and merchandise
pays a duty of 5 p. c.
The Portuguese who returned home brought a few precious stones of
little value, for, in truth, they had neither gold nor silver to buy
any. They say that these jewels are very dear there, as also are
pearls, but I believe they are to be had cheap. This is my opinion,
but those they bought were in the hands of Moorish brokers, who sell
at a fourfold profit. They have brought some balasci,[333] sapphires
and very small rubies, as also many garnets. They say that the
captain brings some valuable jewels, which he bought with the silver
which he had at his disposal, but as he has not yet come back it is
not known what he brings.[334]
[_Trade with Egypt and East Africa._]
Most of the vessels which lade spices at Chalichut cross the large
gulf, mentioned above, over which the pilot took them; they then pass
through the strait.[335] The Red Sea is crossed in smaller vessels,
after which they proceed by land to the House of Mecca, which is a
journey of 3 days. They then take the route for Cairo, past the foot
of Mount Sinai, and through a desert of sand where, they say, high
winds sometimes raise the sand in such a manner that it covers them.
Some of the spice-vessels visit all the cities of the gulf, others
go to the mouth of the great river,[336] where gold is found and a
Moorish population, and there discharge their cargoes.
They found in this city of Chalichut barrels of Malvasia[337] from
Candia, and I believe that they were brought from Cairo, as is other
merchandise.
[_Chinese Visitors._]
It is now about 80 years since there arrived in this city of Chalicut
certain vessels of white Christians, who wore their hair long like
Germans, and had no beards except around the mouth, such as are worn
at Constantinople by cavaliers and courtiers.[338] They landed,
wearing a cuirass, helmet, and vizor, and carrying a certain weapon
[sword] attached to a spear. Their vessels are armed with bombards,
shorter than those in use with us. Once every two years they return
with 20 or 25 vessels. They are unable to tell what people they are,
nor what merchandise they bring to this city, save that it includes
very fine linen-cloth and brass-ware. They load spices. Their vessels
have four masts like those of Spain. If they were Germans it seems
to me that we should have had some notice about them; possibly they
may be Russians if they have a port there. On the arrival of the
captain we may learn who these people are, for the Italian-speaking
pilot, who was given him by the Moorish king,[339] and whom he took
away contrary to his inclinations, is with him, and may be able to
tell.[340]
[_Food._]
Corn in abundance is found in this city of Chalichut, it being
brought thither by the Moors. For 3 reals,[341] which are smaller
than ours, bread sufficient for the daily sustenance of a man can be
purchased. Their bread is unleavened, resembling small cakes, which
are baked daily in the ashes. Rice, likewise, is found in abundance.
There are cows and oxen. They are small, but yield much milk and
butter. Oranges of indifferent flavour[342] are plentiful, as also
lemons, citrons and limes, very good melons,[343] dates, fresh and
dried, and great variety of other kinds of fruit.
The king of this city of Chalichut eats neither of meat nor fish
nor anything that has been killed, nor do his barons, courtiers,
or other persons of quality, for they say that Jesus Christ[344]
said in his law that he who kills shall die. For this reason they
refuse to eat anything that has been killed, and it is a great
thing that they should be able to support themselves without eating
meat or fish.[345] The common people eat meat and fish, but they
do not eat oxen or cows, for they hold these animals to be blessed
(benedetto), and when they meet an ox on the highway they touch him,
and afterwards kiss their hand, as a sign of great humility.
The king lives on rice, milk and butter,[346] and so do his barons
and some of the other men of quality. And the king is waited upon
right royally at table. He drinks palm-wine out of a silver cup. This
cup he does not put to his mouth, but holds at some distance and
pours the wine down his throat.
[_Fish._]
The fish are of the same kinds as are those of Portugal, namely,
perch,[347] soles,[348] bream,[349] salmon, mullets, and so of all
other kinds. And there are fishermen who go a-fishing[350] [soles and
salmon].
[_Elephants._]
The Christians ride on elephants, of whom there are many: they are
domesticated. When the king goes to war most of his people go on
foot, but some are mounted on elephants; but when he goes from place
to place he causes himself to be carried by some among the principal
men of his court.[351]
[_Dress._]
All or most of these people are clothed in cotton-cloths from the
waist down to the knee, but from the waist upwards they go naked.
Courtiers and men of condition dress in the same manner, but make
use of silk-stuffs, reddish or scarlet or of other colours, as seems
good to them.[352] The wives (ladies) of men of condition are clothed
above the girdle in very white and delicate linen; but the wives
of lower degree are naked above the waist.[353] The Moors dress
according to their custom in _jubbi_ and _balandrau_.[354]
[_Distance to Lisbon._]
From this city of Chalichut to Lisbon is a distance of 3800
leagues,[355] and at the rate of 4½ miles to the league this makes
17,100 miles, and as much again for the return voyage. From this the
time in which such a voyage can be made may be judged, it requiring
from 15 to 16 months.
[_Native Navigation._]
The mariners of that part, namely the Moors, do not guide themselves
by the Pole in navigating this gulf, but trust to quadrants of
wood.[356] When they cross the gulf to that side, so they were told
by the pilot, they leave a thousand or more islands[357] to the
right; and whoever gets among these will be lost as there are many
rocks (shoals), and I am inclined to think that they be those which
were discovered by the King of Castile.[358]
[_Prester John._]
At the city of Chalichut they have some knowledge of Prester
John,[359] but not much, as he is far away. These Christians believe
that Jesus Christ was born of the Virgin Mary, without sin, was
crucified and killed by the Jews, and buried at Jerusalem. They also
have some knowledge of the Pope of Rome, but know nothing of our
faith beyond this. They [the people of Prester John] have letters and
a written language.
[_Articles of Commerce._]
In this city are found many tusks of elephants, also much cotton,
sugar and sweetmeats, and all the wealth of the world seems now to
have been discovered.
I presume that wine would prove a good article in these parts, and
very acceptable to these Christians. Oil, too, is in demand.
Justice is strictly administered in this city. Robbers, murderers,
and other malefactors are incontinently impaled in the Turkish
fashion; and whoever defrauds the king’s excise (customs) is punished
by having his merchandise confiscated.
Civet, musk, ambergris and storax are met with.[360]
[_Spice Islands._]
The island where the spices grow is called Zilon, and is 60[361]
leagues from said city. In that island grow the trees which yield
very good cinnamon; as also pepper.[362] However, there is still
another island [in which spices grow]. Cinnamon and pepper also grow
on the mainland, around this city, but the quality is inferior to the
products of the islands. Ginger grows on the mainland, and is of very
good quality. Cloves grow at a great distance. Of rhubarb there is
much, and many other kinds of spices are found there, as also many
almonds.[363]
[_The Arabian Sea._]
I stated above that the gulf was wholly peopled by Moors, but I have
since[364] learnt that this is not the case. Only the shore on this
side [the west], where is the city of Melinde, is wholly inhabited
by white Moors, whilst the further [eastern] shore is peopled by
Christian Indians, who are white as we are. Along the coast and
throughout the mainland much corn, meat and fruit are produced.
The country around the city of Melinde is very fertile, and many of
these provisions are shipped from it to Chalichut, for most of the
land around the latter is sandy and yields no fruit.[365]
[_The Monsoons._]
There are only two dominant winds in those parts, namely westerly and
easterly winds, and it is winter during the former and summer during
the latter.
[_Artists._]
There are many excellent painters in this city of Ghalinde,[366] of
figures as well as of other subjects.
[_Architecture._]
Neither Ghalinde nor any of the other cities is enclosed within
walls or otherwise, but there are many good houses, built in the
Moorish style, of stone and mortar, and streets regularly laid out
(ordinate).[367]
[_Ceylon._]
In the island of Zilon, where the cinnamon grows, are found many
precious stones and the biggest sapphires.
GIROLAMO SERNIGI.
Lisbon.
GIROLAMO SERNIGI’S SECOND LETTER TO A GENTLEMAN OF FLORENCE.[368]
Since I sent you full particulars about India and its discovery there
has arrived here the pilot whom they took by force. He appeared to
be a Sclavonian and turns out to be a Jew, born at Alexandria, or in
those parts, and thence went to India when very young. At Calichut he
has a wife and children. He owned a ship and went several times to
sea.
[_Spices._]
This man told wonderful things about those countries, and their
wealth in spices. The best and finest cinnamon is procured from
another island [Ceylon], about 150 leagues beyond Calichut and very
near the mainland. This island is inhabited by Moors. Pepper and
cloves come from more distant parts.
[_Jews._]
He says that there are not many Jews there; and that there is a King
of the Jews of the ten tribes of the Jewish people which went out of
Egypt.[369]
[_Christians._]
He says that in those countries there are many gentiles, that is
idolaters, and only a few Christians;[370] that the supposed churches
and belfries are in reality temples of idolaters, and that the
pictures within them are those of idols and not of Saints. To me
this seems more probable than saying that there are Christians but
no divine administrations, no priests and no sacrificial mass. I do
not understand that there are any Christians there to be taken into
account,[371] excepting those of Prester John, whose country is far
from Calichut, on this [_i.e._, the western] side of the Gulf of
Arabia, and borders upon the country of the King of Melinde, and,
far in the interior, upon the Ethiopians, that is the black people
of Guinea, as also upon Egypt, that is the country of the Sultan of
Babylon [Cairo]. This Prester John has priests, who offer sacrifices,
respect the Gospels and the Laws of the Church, much as is done by
other Christians.
[_Trade with Egypt._]
The Sultan has a port on the Red Sea, and the route from Alexandria
to that port passes throughout through his territories, it being a
journey of quite lxxx days.[372] At that port all spices coming from
Calichut are discharged.
[_A Pearl Fishery._]
There is an island about a league from the mainland,[373] inhabited
by fishermen, who do nothing but fish for pearls. There is no water
in the island, and many barges go daily to a large river on the
mainland where they are filled with water—no tubs or barrels being
used. When the animals of the island see these barges return, they
immediately hasten to the shore to drink out of these barges. Pearls
are not fished at any island except this one which lies quite 60
leagues[374] this side of Calichut. It is inhabited by gentiles, who
set great store by cows and oxen, whom they almost worship, so that
anyone discovered to have eaten beef is adjudged guilty of death.[375]
[_Taprobana._]
Taprobana, concerning which Pliny wrote so fully, was not known
to the pilot, for it must be quite out at sea, far away from the
mainland.[376]
[_A Pagoda._]
At Calichut there is a temple and whoever enters it before noon on a
seventh Wednesday dies[377] because of diabolical apparitions. The
Jewish pilot affirms that this is most certainly true, and that on a
certain day of the year some lamps in this same temple begin to burn
spontaneously and cause many deformities of nature to appear.
[_Moorish Navigation._]
He, moreover, stated that in those seas they navigate without
compasses, but with the aid of quadrants of wood. This seems to be a
difficult thing to do, especially during a fog, when it is impossible
to see the stars. They also have a kind of very small anchor, but I
do not know how it is used.[378] The planks of their vessels are held
together by cords, and they are three palms longer than the beam. All
the vessels of that country are built at Calichut, for no wood is
found elsewhere.
[_Suitable Exports._]
The articles of merchandise most suitable for that country seem to
be coral, copper kettles and thin plates of the same metal; tartar,
spectacles (for there are countries where a pair of them fetches
a high price), coarse linens, wine, oil, thin brocades, and also
boccasins, that is cloths. The said Jew has thrown much light on all
these matters.
[_Plans of King Manuel._]
Our King of Portugal is very keen in this matter and has already
ordered four vessels to be got ready, besides two caravels, well
armed, to sail in January with plenty of merchandise.[379] Should the
King of Calicut not allow the Portuguese to trade in those countries,
the captain of these vessels is instructed to capture as many native
craft as he can. In my opinion he will be able to capture as many as
he chooses, for they are frail, and so badly constructed that they
can only sail before the wind. Of these native vessels, engaged in
the spice trade, there are very many.
[_Elephants._]
The principal animals of this country are elephants, which they
employ in war. On the back of the animal they place a kind of castle
sheltering three or four fighting men, in addition to whom there
is one man, and he the most important, who guides the animal, as
described by Pliny.[380] Some kings there are who have 1500 elephants
each, others a thousand and others eight hundred, according to the
extent of their dominions. When they wish to beach their ships they
do so by the strength of these animals, and they make them run, which
seems fabulous, but is nevertheless true.
[_Precious Stones._]
Those who have returned say that precious stones (jewels) are
plentiful, but dear in comparison with other merchandise. Neither
the captain nor the others have brought back jewels worth taking
into account, and this makes me think that they are not found there,
but come from afar. The princes and kings of those countries value
precious stones very much.
Storax, benzoin, civet and similar things are not as plentiful there
as I was led to believe.
[_The Royal Title._]
Our king has taken a title from those countries, viz. King of
Portugal and Algarve on this and on the other side of the sea, in
Africa, Lord of Guinea, and of the conquest, the navigation and
commerce of Ethiopia, Arabia, Persia and India.
This is what I was able to learn from some persons of intelligence
who returned with this fleet. And if I have written it down somewhat
at random you, Sir,[381] will pardon and excuse me.
EXTRACTS FROM GIROLAMO SERNIGI’S LETTER TO HIS BROTHER, 1499.
_From an Abstract made by Conrad Peutinger at Rome._
The four vessels left Lisbon on July 10, 1499 ... The captain
remained behind with three vessels, because his brother Paulo da
Gama, was sick unto death. He landed him at an island called Capo
Verde, far from Lisbon, and burnt two vessels, the one of 110 tons
and one of 90 tons, so that they might not fall into the hands of
the heathen [Mohammedans], for 55 of his people had died, and he
was unable to bring these ships home with the remaining 63 men.
Afterwards the captain came _a Sambameno_ (_a salvamento_, safely)
back to Lisbon with the one ship.[382]
... On the voyage out from Lisbon the vessels came to some distant
islands where they [the Portuguese] had been before.[383] Beyond
these islands they came to a gulf, or arm of the sea, which they
crossed, having the land always to the left and the broad sea to the
right....
Various kinds of spices are brought from distant islands to Colokutt.
Pepper, brazil-wood, _grao_,[384] cinnamon, frankincense, lac, are to
be found there. These things abound and are worth next to nothing.
Of brazil-wood there is plenty. There are likewise many ivory tusks
and various other kinds of merchandise, such as variously-coloured
silk-stuffs, costly cloth worked in gold, fine white linen, and
woollen-stuffs, such as bocassins of various colours, and also much
cotton. It is thought that the silver stuffs and cloths, as also the
linens, come from Alkeiro (Cairo).
... Most of the spices brought to Kalikut are said to come from the
island of Zelong (Ceylon). Only heathen live in that island, and the
king is a heathen [Moor]. It is at a distance of 160 leagues from
Kalekutt, and only one league from the mainland. By land it is a
journey of twenty days. In the island are forests of brazil-wood and
roseberries,[385] and other spices, including cloves and rhubarb, are
found. Some minor spices come from more distant islands. Cinnamon is
imported from Ceylon ...
APPENDIX C.
[Illustration: VASCO DA GAMA.
(_From a Paris MS. of Barretto de Rezende._)]
THREE PORTUGUESE ACCOUNTS OF VASCO DA GAMA’S FIRST VOYAGE (1608-1646).
I.—JORNAL DAS VIAGENS DOS PORTUGUEZES AS INDIAS, 1608.