THE FLAT JACQUARD MACHINE—HOW IT DIFFERS FROM THE PURL STITCH JACQUARD
MACHINE—TYPE OF FABRIC PRODUCED—METHODS OF NEEDLE SELECTION—DIFFERENCE
BETWEEN SINGLE JACQUARD AND DOUBLE JACQUARD—EXPLANATION OF DESIGN AND
PATTERN CARDS
SO far as the knitting mechanism is concerned, the flat jacquard machine
is designed and constructed along the same lines as the ordinary flat
machine, with the card cylinder for cards and the other necessary
appurtenances added. Fig. 83 is a general view of a Dubied jacquard
machine, which is semi-automatic but operated by hand. This illustration
and the other photographs for this chapter were secured through the
courtesy of D. Nusbaum & Co.
The card cylinder and cards are practically the same as used on the purl
stitch machine and explained in a former chapter, but obviously the
application must be somewhat different owing to the different
construction and manner of operating the needles in this machine.
Inasmuch as there are two sets of needles opposed one to the other, and
each set forms the stitches which show on their respective sides of the
fabric, it is possible and customary to make the designs in solid
colors, differing in this respect from the links and links or purl
stitch machine.
[Illustration: Fig. 83. Dubied Automatic Jacquard Flat Bed Machine.]
[Illustration: Fig. 84. Back of Flat Jacquard Machine Showing a Set of
Cards, Mounted.]
The jacquard designed fabrics are usually made in what would, on an
ordinary machine, be the one and one rib or plain stitch. The tuck or
cardigan stitch is not resorted to to bring out the design as in some
other systems. Strictly speaking, however, the stitch is not what could
properly be called a rib stitch, but is a combination of a plain rib and
jersey stitch when made on the single jacquard, and is almost wholly of
the jersey stitch construction when made on the double jacquard where
the design is brought out on both sides of the fabric. The single
jacquard is so called when the jacquard arrangement is on one plate
only, usually the back one. The double jacquard machine is one which has
the jacquard attachment on both the front and back plates. With the
single jacquard the design can be brought out on one side of the fabric
only, while with the double jacquard the design may be brought out on
both sides of the fabric, but the colors would be reversed.
Type of Fabric Produced
Before going into the mechanical construction of the attachment we will
to some extent analyze the fabric to find out what must be done to
produce it. Referring to Fig. 87, which is a photographic reproduction
of a fabric made on the machine under discussion, it will be noted that
both the design and the ground are in solid colors. The rectangular
figures which might be called the design are in solid black, while the
squares, both the large ones and the small ones, which would be the
ground, are solid white. It should be understood that there are two yarn
carriers used in making this fabric, one for the white yarn and one for
the black, and that these carriers are changed every round; that is, one
round of white, and one round of black, alternating throughout the
fabric.
Now inasmuch as we know that the fabric is made in the plain stitch, it
is quite obvious that in order to make this design means must be
provided to permit only those needles to knit which are making the white
ground on any course in which the carrier with the white yarn is being
used. Similarly only those needles making the black design must be
permitted to knit on the course in which the carrier with the black yarn
is used. The needles or wales, of course, run vertically in the fabric,
while the rectangular design is diagonal, therefore it is plain that the
number of needles or their relative positions must be changed each
course.
In this fabric the design is brought out on one side only, the back
plate, and the needles on the opposite side or front plate are knitting
each time the carriage is moved across the machine as explained in
detail later. This may be plainly seen in Fig. 87, where the corner is
turned over to show the back of the fabric.
[Illustration: Fig. 85. Back and End of Jacquard Machine Showing Details
of Necessary Movements.]
Now to find the method of selecting the proper needles at the proper
time we will refer first to Fig. 86, which is a photographic
reproduction of the cam system used in this machine; also to Fig. 90,
which is a drawing of a cross section of the needle plates. It will be
noted in Fig. 90 that there are two separate needle plates. The top one
is for the needles proper, while the lower one is for the auxiliary
needles.
These two plates are in perfect alignment, both as to the surface and
the needle tricks or slots. In the double jacquard the front plate would
be in two parts and a duplicate of the back plate, but in the single
jacquard the front side would have what is the upper plate on the back
side only, and would use the short needles as shown at _b_, Fig. 89.
[Illustration: Fig. 86. Construction and Arrangement of Cams and Locks
in Dubied Jacquard Machine.]
The Cam System
Referring now to the cam system shown in Fig. 86, it will be noted that
while in general appearance the upper and lower set of locks are
similar, the wing or stitch cam _l_ and _m_ are not only different in
shape from the lower wing cams _f_ and _g_, but they are set differently
in their relation to the V or rise cams _a_ and _c_.
The cams as shown are set in the proper position to make jacquard or
design work. The upper rise cams _c_, _d_ and _e_ are drawn up into the
plate out of working position, therefore those needles selected to
operate on any course must be raised by the lower rise cams _a_ and _b_.
The upper lock operates on the butts of the needles proper shown at _b_,
Fig. 90, while the lower lock operates upon the auxiliary needles shown
at _a_ in the same illustration. Now, then it is plain that the needles
proper will not be raised up, therefore cannot draw new loops or knit
unless they are raised by the auxiliary needles _a_, Fig. 90, which in
their turn are raised by the cams _a_ and _b_, Fig. 86. But it should be
noted that the auxiliary needles are drawn down below the point of the
rise cams _a_ on each course, as the wing cams _f_ and _g_ extend below
these corners, therefore, on every course, unless one of the wing cams
_f_ or _g_ is drawn up into the cam plate out of working position, all
of the auxiliary needles are drawn down out of working position and will
not operate on the next succeeding course unless put into working
position by other means.
These wing cams _f_ and _g_ are chamfered off on the outside, so that
any auxiliary needles pushed up above the lower end and into operating
position will slide under and raise them up into the cam plate. The
inner edge is a square corner consequently will, upon coming in contact
with the needle butts, draw them down out of the working position. The
auxiliary needles being a separate unit have no effect on the needles
proper on their downward movement, but must, of course, raise them on
the upward movement by coming in contact with the lower ends.
[Illustration: Fig. 87. Fabric Design Made on a Jacquard Machine.]
Those of the needles proper that are moved up into work are brought down
again and form new loops by the stitch cams _l_ and _m_, Fig. 86. The
small triangular cams _j_ and _k_ are for clearing the needles when a
very short stitch is being drawn by the stitch cams _l_ and _m_.
How Needles Are Selected
Now to show how the needles are selected we will first refer to Fig. 89,
which shows the needle proper at _b_ and the auxiliary needle at _a_.
The auxiliary needle has a joint in it as shown at _h_ to permit the
lower end _e_ to swing to the position shown by the dotted line _i_.
Fig. 90 shows the auxiliary needles in position with the card cylinder
and cards in place ready to push them up into operation. Those needles
which it is desired not to operate at all, such as the needles at the
end of the plate that may not be needed, are drawn down and the ends are
turned down to the point where they are at right angles to the plate, as
shown by the dotted line at _i_. When they are in this position the
cards cannot of course push them up into operating position. The short
nib that looks like a part of a needle, indicated at _f_, and the card
cylinder shown at _g_ are not a part of the mechanism under
consideration, but are another method of needle selection which will be
explained later.
[Illustration: Fig. 88. o-Black; x-White. Designs Shown in Fig. 87 Layed
Out on Cross Section Paper for Cutting Cards.]
Fig. 84 is a general view of the back of the machine showing a set of
cards on the card cylinder ready for work. Fig. 85 shows the mechanism
used to bring the cylinder with the cards into action. The cards and
cylinder need no distinguishing mark as they should be easily recognized
from what has gone before. The same thing applies to the auxiliary
needles just above, part of which are turned down to the point where
they cannot be put into operation.
Letter _j_ indicates the end of the shaft upon which the card cylinder
is mounted, and _c_ is the elongated opening in which it moves up and
down. This opening is on the same diagonal plane as the needle plates
and has its duplicate at the other end which carries the other end of
the card cylinder. The rocker shaft _d_ is mounted just under the card
cylinder and has two levers securely attached, the other ends of which
are connected to the card cylinder shaft, one at either end. On the
outer end of the rocker shaft _d_ is another lever indicated by the
letter _e_. This is connected to the camway _h_ through the extension
_k_. This camway is mounted in such a manner that it can be moved only
in one direction, and that direction is up and down diagonally or on the
same plane as the back needle plates.
As the carriage reaches the extreme end of its travel the pin _g_, which
is attached to the carriage, enters and follows the camway. Inasmuch as
the cams are set on an incline this pin or plunger must raise the camway
together with the end of the lever _e_. Through the rocker shaft _d_ and
the two levers before mentioned as connecting the rocker shaft with the
card cylinder, this will bring the card cylinder up to the lower edge of
the auxiliary needle plate. This action will of course push all those
needles into action that come in contact with the particular card that
may be on that side of the card cylinder at the time. Where the openings
are cut in this card the needles will pass through and have no contact,
therefore will not be pushed up into working position.
As the card cylinder returns to its lowest position it is turned a
quarter turn by the stationary hooked dog _a_, which catches a tooth, of
which there are four, of a ratchet wheel which is also securely attached
to the card cylinder shaft. In this way the card cylinder is turned a
quarter turn each time it is moved up to the auxiliary plate, which
brings a new card into position to make another selection of needles for
the next course.
Letter _f_ indicates a counterweight which, as will be noted, is
attached to the rocker shaft _d_ to assist in returning the card
cylinder to its lowest position and hold it there after its return.
Letter _i_ indicates an ordinary pattern chain on which the proper studs
are attached to change the yarn carriers automatically.
Three Units May Be Racked
In this type of jacquard machine there are three separate and distinct
units which may be racked or moved at right angles to the movement of
the needles. They are, first, the needle plate proper which racks the
same as the ordinary flat machine; second, the auxiliary needle plate;
and third, the card cylinder together with the cards. The racking of the
needle plate proper is necessary to make those designs in which a rack
in the fabric is required, but the other two are chiefly a matter of
convenience to save making up cards. There are many designs that may be
made with one or four cards, or even without any cards, by manipulation
of these racking movements, where otherwise quite a string of cards
would be required.
[Illustration: Fig. 89. Needles Proper and Auxiliary Needles Used in
Jacquard Machine.]
We will take for example any design consisting of a small block or check
within the limits of the needles the auxiliary plate will rack over.
Such a design may be made without cards in this way. Say we wish to make
a black and white check four needles wide and four courses high. We
would put up into operating position four auxiliary needles and draw
four down, alternating in this way with four up and four down for the
width of the fabric. Then, referring to Fig. 86, we would draw up out of
operating position as shown the rise cams _c_, _d_ and _e_, also the
wing cams _f_ and _g_. This would permit the alternating four auxiliary
needles we have left in operating position to always stay in this
position. Now, after putting on one round or two courses of, let us say,
white we would rack the auxiliary plate over four needles and then put
on a round of black; rack back the four needles and put on a round of
white, rack the other way four needles and put on a round of black. If
we could see the fabric made thus far we would find that we had a row of
blocks or checks four needles wide and four courses high. For although
we have put on four courses each of the black and white, which makes
eight courses in all, each color has been put on its own group of four
needles; therefore the whole will build up the fabric but four courses.
If we continued to operate the machine in the same manner we would get
alternate black and white stripes, each four needles wide.
To break them up into checks or squares we would at this point have to
either skip racking once while continuing the change of carriers each
round, or miss changing carriers once while continuing the rack of four
needles each round. This change must of course be made every four rounds
throughout the length of the fabric, or as long as it is desired to make
the check. It should be remembered that it is the auxiliary plate that
is racked in this case, and not the needles proper; therefore the rack
does not show in the fabric. But the shifting of these alternate sets of
four auxiliary needles each round causes alternate groups of four of the
needles proper to knit, the set which knits depending on which way the
auxiliary plate is racked.
This same check design may be made with one card properly cut by
preventing the card cylinder from turning and racking, or moving the
card cylinder back and forth four needles in the same manner as the
auxiliary plate was moved. Or it may be made with four cards without
moving either the plate or card cylinder. In this case it would be
necessary to use all the auxiliary needles and lower the wing cams _f_
and _g_, Fig. 86, into action.
[Illustration: Fig. 90. Cross Section of Needle Plates and Card
Cylinder.]
In making a fabric on a double jacquard machine which shows the design
on one side only, it is good practice to put four cards on the front
cylinder properly cut to put alternate needles into operation on
alternate courses, in order to prevent putting more courses on the front
plate than on the back. Or to explain it in another way, the needle in
the back plate that makes the white part of the design knit only on the
rounds on which the white thread carrier is used, and the needles that
make the black parts operate only when the carrier with the black yarn
is in use.
Now it is plain that if all the needles in the front plate are permitted
to knit each round we would have approximately twice as many courses on
the front as on the back. This is obviated, as stated before, by using
cards on the front card cylinder to push up into operation every
alternate needle when moving the carriage say from left to right, and
permitting these to remain idle and pushing those not operated on this
course into operation on the return course from right to left. While
this is desirable it is not essential, for it cannot be done on a single
jacquard, though there are many nice designs and fabrics made on this
machine.
Explanation of Pattern
Fig. 87 shows a fabric made on a double jacquard machine with both card
cylinders in operation. Before going any further it should be understood
that both the front and back card cylinders can be operated and make a
new selection of needles at the end of each course, or when the carriage
is at the end of its travel at both ends of the machine. This design is
made by operating the card cylinders in this way. Fig. 88 is a layout of
the design shown in Fig. 87. It is one complete repeat of the design as
shown by the square box in Fig. 87. All the rest of the fabric is simply
a repetition of this, but when grouped together on a large piece of
fabric they appear entirely different.
As may be seen in Fig. 88, it would take 36 cards to make this design.
In cutting the cards for this we would cut out the places shown blank
and leave the card whole to push the needles into operation in the
places marked by an _x_ or an _o_. This cutting would of course have to
be repeated the width of the fabric, or the length of each card.
The principle as explained is used on all makes of flat jacquard
knitting machines, but the method used to put the needles into operation
by the cards differs with the different builders. For example, one
popular method is shown in Fig. 90, where the card cylinder is placed
directly below the under surface of the auxiliary plate as shown at _g_,
and acts on a short nib with the butt turned downward and extending
through the plate as shown at _f_. With this method it is customary to
use a long needle with two butts as shown in Fig. 89 at _f_, instead of
the short one with an auxiliary needle. Also with this method the needle
plate would be a single wide plate with the tricks or needle slots cut
gradually deeper as they reached the lower edge, so that at the point
where the lower butts of the needles come the trick is deep enough so
that the needle may be depressed to bring the top of the lower butts
flush, or just below, the top surface of the needle plate. When
operating the machine these butts always remain in this position,
therefore will not knit unless raised up and put into operation by the
cards.
If we should cut a set of cards just the reverse of the set laid out in
Fig. 88, that is, cut out where these are not, and leave uncut where
these are cut, and put this set on the front card cylinder and operate
them in conjunction with and opposite to the back set, we would have the
same design on both sides of the fabric, but the colors would be
reversed.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
INDEX
=A=
Automatic Control, 60, 67
Automatic Drop Locks, 30
Automatic Drop V Cams, 31
Automatic Jacquard, Purl Stitch Machine, 100
Automatic Narrowing or Fashioning Machine, 113
Automatic Single Lock Machine, 57
Automatic Widening Machine, 78
=B=
Bridge, 59
Bridges, 91, 126
=C=
Cams, 18, 31, 115
Cams, Difference Between Dubied and Lamb System, 49
Cam, Explanation of, 18
Cams, Guard, 49
Cam Plate, 32
Cams, Purl Stitch Machine, 90, 103
Cam, Racking, 38
Cams, Stitch, 74
Cam System, Jacquard, 134
Cams, V, 31
Cams, Widening Machine, 81
Cams, Wing, 135
Carriage, 18
Carriage, Purl Stitch Machine, 90, 96
Cardigan, Half, 29
Cardigan, Full, 29
Cardigan, Half, How Made, 30, 47
Cardigan, Full, How Made, 33, 48
Cards, 106, 129, 136
Card Cylinder, 106, 129, 136
Cards, to Cut, 110, 140
Changing the Stitch, 63, 74, 96, 103
Changing Yarn Carriers, 64, 73, 75, 96
Claes & Flentje Machine, 113
Counter, 59, 89
Counting Cylinder, 67
Counting Cylinder Stops, 69
Cotton-back, 29, 46, 75
Cotton-back Sweater, 44, 48
Collar, Shaped, 40
Comb, Narrowing, 51
Comb, Set up, 52
Chain Drive, 45, 57, 100
Chain, Controlling, 57, 59
Chain, Racking, 59, 64
Chain, Pattern, 59
Control of Yarn, 70
Course, 10
Crank, 57
Crank Drive, 45
Crochet Stitch, 13
Crosswise of the Fabric, 10
Crochet Fabric, 13
Cut Pressers, 29
Cylinder or Drum, Counting, 67, 100
Cylinder Divisions, 68
Cylinder Stops, 69
Cylinder, to Stop, 70
Cylinder for Jacquard System, 103
Cylinder, Card, 106, 136
=D=
Decker, 51, 122
Design Work, 33, 35
Designs, Racked, 42
Designs, Purl Stitch Machine, 96, 97, 100
Designs, Basket Weave, 97
Designs, Diagonal Diamond, 99
Designing, Jacquard System, 106, 109
Designs, Jacquard Rib, 129
Designs, Laying Out, 109
Designs Without Cards, 138
Designed Fabric, 140
Diagonal Stitch, 40
Double Lock, 46, 73
Double Lock Machine, 44, 46
Double Jacquard, 132, 140
Drive, Chain, 45
Drive, Crank, 45
Drop Locks, 30
Drop Stitch, 22
Drum, See Cylinder
Dubied Machine, 46, 57, 78, 88
=E=
Elasticity in Knit Fabrics, 15
Elasticity of Rib Fabrics, 26
=F=
Fabric, Rib, 10
Fabric, Jersey, 10
Fabric, Flat, 10
Fabric, Crochet, 13
Fabric, Tubular, 24
Fabric, Face, 33
Fabric, Two-Faced, 44, 46
Fabric, Tension, 85
Fabric, Jacquard, 132
Fabric, Designed, See Designs
False Knop, 63, 74
Fancy Stitches, See Designs
Fashioned Goods, 51
Fashioning a Sleeve, 53, 78
Fashioning Machine, Automatic, 78, 113
Fibers, Resiliency of, 15
Fingers, 69, 127
Flat Fabrics, 23
Flat Goods, 10, 26
Frame, 31
French Rack, 63, 74
Full Cardigan, 29
Full Cardigan, How Made, 33, 48
=G=
Gib, 18
Guards, 95
=H=
Hand Knitting, 12
Half Cardigan, 29
Half Cardigan, How Made, 30, 32, 47
Hoe, 127
=I=
Invention of Knitting Machine, 9, 16, 17
=J=
Jacks, 20, 86, 105
Jacks, Hump or Head, 93
Jacks, Clutch, 94
Jacquard, 29
Jacquard Purl Stitch Machine, 100
Jacquard System, 106
Jacquard Machine, Flat, 129
Jacquard, Rib Designs, 129
Jacquard, Single, 129, 140
Jacquard, Double, 132, 140
Jacquard Fabric, 132
Jersey Fabric, 10, 23, 74
Jersey Fabric, Range of, 25
Jersey Stitch, Purl Stitch Machine, 96
=K=
Knitting Machine, Invention of, 9, 16, 17
Knitted Fabric, 13
Knitted Fabric, Construction of, 9
Knitting, Hand, 12
=L=
Latch Needles, 16
Latch Needles, Invention of, 17
Latch Brush, 22
Latch Guards, 95
Latch Openers, 103
Lamb System, 30, 47
Lengthwise of the Fabric, 10
Length of Fabric, Limits, 10
Levers, Changing, 59
Lineal Feet per Minute, 45
Links and Links Machine, See Purl Stitch Machine
Loop, 10
Loop, Study of, 11
Locks, 30
=M=
Machine, Knitting, Invention of, 9, 16, 17
Machine Knitting, Difference from Hand, 16
Machine Speed, 21, 45
Machine, Double Lock, 44, 46
Machine, Single Lock, 44, 57
Machine, Automatic Widening, 78
Machine, Automatic Narrowing, 113
Machine, Purl Stitch, 86
Machine, Jacquard, 100, 129
=N=
Narrowing Comb, 51, 122
Narrowing, How Done, 53
Narrowing Machine, Automatic, 113
Narrowing, Lines of Movement, 118
Needles, Hand, 12
Needles, Latch, Machine, 16, 56, 83
Needles, Auxiliary, 135
Needle Speed, 21
Needles, Purl Stitch, 87
Needles, Automatic Narrowing Machine, 126
Needles, Automatic Widening Machine, 80, 83
Needle Selection, Jacquard System, 132, 136
Needle Springs, 20, 80, 83
Needle Plates, 18, 31, 80, 86, 88, 105
Needle Plates, Jacquard, 134
=P=
Pattern Wheels, 29
Pattern Chain, 59
Pawls, Racking, 65
Piping, 43
Plating, 50
Plating Yarn Carrier, 50, 111
Production, 44
Purl Stitch Machine, 86, 88
Purl Stitch Fabric, 87
Purl Stitch Machine, Jacquard, 100
=R=
Rack Stitch, 29, 35
Rack Stitch, How Made, 36
Rack, French, 63, 74
Rack, Both Sides of Fabric, 41
Racked Collar, 40
Racking Chain, 59, 64
Racking Cam, 38, 65
Racking Mechanism, 65
Racking Pawls, 65
Racking Cam Ratchet, 66
Racking, Purl Stitch Machine, 89
Rib Fabric, 10, 26, 27
Rib Fabric, Elasticity of, 26
Rib Fabric, Varieties of, 29
Rib Stitch, 1 and 1, 2 and 2, etc., 96
Rib, 2 and 2, Purl Stitch Machine, 98, 100
Rules, 97
=S=
Seams on Fashioned Work, 54
Selective System, 33
Selvedge Edge, 41, 54, 72
Set Up Comb, 52
Shaped Collar, 40
Shog or Shogged, 36
Speed, 21, 45
Springs, U-shaped Needle, 20, 80
Springs, Yarn Take-up, 72
Sprocket Roller, 59, 65
Sinker Loop, 10
Single Lock Machine, 44, 57
Single Jacquard, 129, 140
Sleeve, Fashioning, 53
Slots, 17, 18
Stops, Counting Cylinder, 69
Stops, Yarn Carrier, 71, 84
Stitch, 10
Stitch Cams, 74, 91, 103
Stitch, Drop, 22
Stitch Pins, 74
Stitch, Rack, 29, 35, 36, 41
Stitch, Changing, 63, 73, 74, 103
Stitches on Purl Stitch Machine, 96
Striping, 64
Studs, Chain, 60, 65
Studs, Heights, 63
Studs, Tension, 72
=T=
Take-up Roller, 59
Textile Fibers, Resiliency of, 15
Tension Stud, 72
Tension on Fabric, 85
Tension for Yarn Take-up Spring, 72
Tricks, 17, 18, 105
Tripping Finger, 69
Tubular Fabric, 24, 26, 74
Tubular Rib Fabric, 26
Tuck Stitch, 29
Tuck Stitch, How Made, 30
Two-faced Fabric, 44, 46
=V=
V Cams, 31
=W=
Wale, 10, 30
Weights, 18, 52, 59, 80
Widening Operation, 55
Widening Machine, 78
Width of Fabric, Needles Counted, 54
Width of Fabric, Limitation, 10
Work Hook, 52, 55
=Y=
Yarn Carrier, 21, 59, 70
Yarn Carrier, Plating, 50, 111
Yarn Carrier, Changing, 64, 73, 75, 96
Yarn Carrier Stops, 71, 84
Yarn Control, 70
Yarn Take-up Spring, 72
Yoke, 59, 126
=Z=
Zig-Zag Stitch, 29
Zig-Zag Stitch, How Made, 39
------------------------------------------------------------------------
“DUBIED”
Flat Knitting Machines,
Links and Links Machines,
Hand and Full Automatic Power
Built by Edward Dubied & Co.
Neuchatel, Switzerland
[Illustration]
Acknowledged by Users
Experts and Judges as
“THE BEST”
Dubied Machinery Company
E. O. SPINDLER
139 Franklin St. Corner West Broadway New York City
SOLE AGENTS FOR U. S. A. AND CANADA
------------------------------------------------------------------------
FOR QUALITY USE
Williams’
Latch Needles
and eliminate serious needle troubles
No Gauge Too Coarse
MADE IN U. S. A.
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BY AMERICAN LABOR
No Gauge Too Fine
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Standard styles carried in stock
Send for samples and prices
❦
CHAUNCEY A. WILLIAMS
Manchester New Hampshire
Maker of “CAW” Brand
Philadelphia Office: 40 South Seventh Street, Rooms 304 and 305
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Textile Machine Works, Reading, Pa.
The European War has proved conclusively that the United States no
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[Illustration]
These machines are the most productive and durable made, and are
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
[Illustration]
AUTOMATIC FLAT KNITTING MACHINE, “GROSSER” TYPE. FrhG.
This is one of the many types of machines
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the Grosser Plants.
Should any problem of knitting puzzle you,
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
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ESTABLISHED 1838
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[Illustration]
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[Illustration]
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------------------------------------------------------------------------
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* * * * *
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[Illustration]
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More Fulling in less
Time—without
“Nips” or “Trap Tears.”
Booklet No. 1220
[Illustration]
Washers
Equipment adapted to individual requirements.
Interchangeable parts.
Booklet No. 221
[Illustration]
Pusher Mills
Felts and Knit
Goods in garment.
Circular 121
[Illustration]
Reel Machine
Bleaching, Dyeing,
Tinting or Washing
without tangling or
straining fabrics.
Booklet No. 1119
* * * * *
[Illustration]
“Rodney Hunt” Wood Rolls
Superior Quality Rolls
“Registered” for Maximum Service
Send for Standard Order Sheets
* * * * *
Water Power Equipment
[Illustration]
Vertical and Horizontal Turbines
For Large and Small Streams.
High returns from varying flow
of water.
Water Controlling Apparatus
“Standardized” designs. Penstocks,
Flumes, Gates and Gate Hoists,
Screens, Valves and accessories.
* * * * *
RODNEY HUNT MACHINE CO.
99 Mill Street Orange, Massachusetts
------------------------------------------------------------------------
The
Eastman Cutter
[Illustration]
Will enable you to save from thirty
to forty per cent in your cutting costs.
We can prove this to you by a
free demonstration.
Eastman Machine Co.
Buffalo, N. Y.
Branch Offices:
NEW YORK
816 Broadway
CHICAGO
315 W. Van Buren Street
BOSTON
87 Summer Street
ROCHESTER
604 Elwood Building
PHILADELPHIA
110 N. Sixth Street
BALTIMORE
417 W. Baltimore Street
DETROIT
162 W. Jefferson Avenue
CLEVELAND
1234 Superior Avenue, N. E.
ST. LOUIS
1420 Olive Street
NEW ORLEANS
210 Godehaux Building
SAN FRANCISCO
86 Third Street
------------------------------------------------------------------------
F-A Quality
“The Standard for over a
Quarter of a Century”
BRAIDS
EDGINGS
TUBING
and NARROW
LOOM FABRICS
Friedberger-Aaron Mfg. Co.
MILLS AND GENERAL OFFICES:
18th and Courtland Streets :: Philadelphia
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Textile World
the world’s textile authority
Kinks
Every manufacturer meets problems in
the operation of a mill which are difficult
of solution. The chances are 99 in 100 that
the same problem has been encountered
and overcome by others, and here is where
TEXTILE WORLD, through its Questions
and Answers Department, saves hours of
time and dollars of waste for mill men.
Each year over 3,000 such practical
problems are answered by TEXTILE
WORLD’S technical staff. This service is
free to subscribers. Answers in every case
are by personal correspondence. A number
of the best ones are published each week
but the inquirer’s name is always confidential.
TEXTILE WORLD is the technical and
market authority of the industry—knit
goods markets, yarn and raw material
quotations. Published every Saturday.
$4.00 per year
Canada, $1.00 extra postage; Foreign, $3.00 extra
Also American Directory of the Knitting Trade
Annually—$2.00
BRAGDON, LORD & NAGLE CO.
334 Fourth Avenue New York
------------------------------------------------------------------------
By the time this publication is read we
expect to have ready for the market a
New Coning Machine. The product
of this machine has several novel
features which we believe will prove
of particular interest to you
Universal Winding Company
Boston Massachusetts
------------------------------------------------------------------------
● Transcriber’s Notes:
○ Missing or obscured punctuation was corrected.
○ Unbalanced quotation marks were left as the author intended.
○ Typographical errors were silently corrected.
○ Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only
when a predominant form was found in this book.
○ Text that was in italics is enclosed by underscores (_italics_);
text that was bold by “equal” signs (=bold=).
End of Project Gutenberg's Flat Machine Knitting and Fabrics, by H. D. Buck