CHAPTER XI

FLAT LATCH NEEDLE AUTOMATIC NARROWING MACHINE

THE flat latch needle automatic narrowing machine as built by Messrs.

Claes & Flentje is shown in Fig. 73, and a piece of fabric from this

machine narrowed down fourteen needles is shown in Fig. 74. This machine

is quite complicated when compared with any that have been taken up

before, but those who have studied what has gone before carefully,

especially that part treating on fashioned garments and how they are

made by hand, should have no trouble in understanding the principles and

movements necessary to do this work automatically.

[Illustration: Fig. 74. Fabric Narrowed Down on Automatic Narrowing

Machine.]

The machine shown is really four separate and complete units mounted

upon one frame or stand and driven by one belt, with the automatic

movements operated from one control. It is evident from this that the

garments or parts of garments made on each one of these four units must

be the same, or rather they must have the same number of rounds with the

same number of needles narrowed down, but they may be made from

different yarns both in kind and color.

There are four points that should be understood to begin with: First,

the machine is operated by power. Second, the power is transmitted to

the driving pulley on the machine at all times when the machine is being

operated. Third, the knitting mechanism must be stopped while the

narrowing mechanism is in operation. Fourth, the narrowing mechanism

must be at rest during the time the knitting mechanism is in operation.

[Illustration: Fig. 75. Changing Mechanism on Right End of Automatic

Narrowing Machine.]

We will first show how it is arranged to automatically stop one part of

the machine, say the knitting operation, and put the narrowing mechanism

in work, and after this part has performed its functions or narrowed

down one needle on each needle plate, front and back, how it is stopped

until time to narrow again, and the knitting parts set in operation.

Fig. 75 is a view of the right end of the machine, and it is here that

the driving mechanism is located, also the automatic controls. The

number 1 indicates the belt and pulley which drive the machine. The

pulley is mounted loose upon the shaft and operates the machine through

a clutch which is thrown in or out, as the case may be, by the handles

marked _x_ in Fig. 73. The number 13 (Fig. 75) indicates a plain balance

wheel on the outside end of the shaft.

When the clutch is in, the driving wheel on which the belt 1 runs will

of course turn the shaft 2, on the other end of which there is a small

spur gear which drives the large gear 3. This large gear is

automatically connected with, and disconnected from the crank wheel 5,

which wheel drives the knitting mechanism through the connecting rod 6

and lever _y_, Fig. 73, whose fulcrum is at _s_, and is connected to an

extension of the carriage at _r_. The lever _y_ comes up between two

ways or slides, on which is mounted a crosshead at the end of this

extension, and where the lever connects at _r_, to keep the extension in

alignment with the carriages.

Referring to Fig. 75, when the machine is being operated the following

parts are always in motion: The driving wheel 1 with the shaft 2,

together with the small spur gear on the end of the shaft 2, which

cannot be seen but drives the large gear 3, also the large gear 3 with

the shaft upon which it is mounted, which may be seen running behind the

vertical connecting straps toward the right of the illustration and

terminates back of the large bevel gear 4. Upon this end of the shaft

there is mounted a small bevel or pinion gear to drive the large bevel

gear 4.

Now then let us understand that the crank wheel 5 operates the knitting

mechanism of the machine, and the bevel gear 4, through a shaft which

runs the entire length of the machine with a series of cams mounted on

it, operates the narrowing mechanism. We have seen that the driving

parts from the driving pulley 1 on the back of the machine, over to and

including the large gear 3, and back to and including the small bevel

gear which drives the large bevel gear 4 are in motion at all times

while the machine is in operation. The gear 4 is engaged with the small

gear only at the time the narrowing is done; while the crank wheel is

connected with the large spur gear 3 and turning only while the knitting

parts are in operation. The connection between the crank wheel 5 and the

gear 3 is simply a key-like lever which may be disconnected by lifting

out of place and connected again by dropping back, though there is only

one place on the circumference of the wheel where it can connect the two

together.

Control of Fashioning Mechanism

[Illustration: Fig. 76. Needles and Decker Points Used on the Automatic

Narrowing Machine.]

The method of starting and stopping the narrowing or fashioning

mechanism is quite a novel and ingenious arrangement. To explain it we

will refer to Fig. 81. The number 4 indicates the bevel gear shown at 4

in Fig. 75, and 4-_a_ is the small pinion a part of which may be seen in

Fig. 75. The larger bevel gear 4 has a small space (three or four teeth)

cut away so it acts somewhat on the principle of an intermittent gear.

When the small pinion 4-_a_ comes to this spot the large gear 4 will of

course stop. This gear is mounted on the shaft 9, which may be seen

under the same designation in Figs. 79 and 80, which is a continuation

of this shaft. It (the gear 4) is shown in Fig. 81 in the position where

it would be at rest as the small pinion 4-_a_ would be turning free and

clear on account of the teeth of the large gear being cut away at this

point.

It will be noted that there is a pin extending from one side of the hub

of the small pinion gear 4-_a_. On the back of gear 4 there is attached

a box-like arrangement with the lever 4-_b_ passing through it, which is

pivoted at _p_ and is held out in the position shown by a spring.

Outside and near the outer end of this lever 4-_b_ is another L-shaped

lever 4-_d_, which is pivoted at _m_ to the frame of the machine.

It is plain that when the lever 4-_b_ is moved in the path of the pin

4-_c_, which is turning at all times with the pinion 4-_a_, by the

right-angled lever 4-_d_, the gear 4 will be moved forward far enough

for the teeth of the pinion to engage with the teeth of the large gear.

Consequently, the gear 4 would turn one complete revolution, or until

the place which has the teeth cut out is again adjacent to the pinion,

and it would stop at this point. This one revolution of the gear 4

completes the execution of one narrowing operation or the narrowing down

of one needle on each needle plate.

[Illustration: Fig. 77. Top of Automatic Narrowing Machine.]

Referring to Fig. 75, number 11 indicates the lever or slide which is

the means provided to make the shift from fashioning to knitting, and

vice versa. When this slide is at its furthermost position toward the

back of the machine it is held there by a catch, and the knitting

mechanism would be in operation while the fashioning mechanism would be

at rest. But immediately the slide is released from the catch, which is

done by a stud on the chain 12, a spring brings it forward and a release

bar, by means of an inclined plane, is set to disconnect the large gear

3 (Fig. 75) from the crank wheel 5, when it gets to the point where the

carriages are at the extreme right end of the needle plates as shown in

Figs. 77 and 78. At the same time it raises up the right-angled lever

4-_d_ (Fig. 81) which throws in the lever 4-_b_, and this of course

starts the fashioning mechanism to work. Just as the gear 4 with the cam

shaft 9 completes its one revolution the slide is set back again, which

permits the gear 3 to connect with the crank shaft and the gear 4 stops

as the cut out teeth come opposite the small pinion.

The several vertical straps which may be seen at or near the center of

Fig. 75 are the mediums through which the automatic changes are made by

studs coming under and raising them. These studs are attached in their

several positions on the chain 12. We will not go into these further,

for while the construction is somewhat different from what we have had,

the principle is the same. As the studs on the chain come under the

straps, they raise them up and this moves a stop in the path of the

different slides which changes the locks, yarn carriers, etc.

The Actual Narrowing Operation

It will be remembered that in narrowing by hand there were three lines

of movement of the decker or narrowing comb. But lines of movement

should not be confused with direction of movement. An object may be

moved in one line, but if moved back and forth on that line it would

move in two directions.

The three lines of movement are as follows: First, it is moved in a line

parallel with an extension of the line of a needle lengthwise, or same

as the arrows 1 and 2 in Fig. 82. We would move it on this line, and in

the direction of arrow 1 to bring the openings in the point of the

decker directly over or above the hooks of the needles. Second, it would

be moved up and down at right angles to its first movement, and in the

direction indicated by arrow 4 to place the openings in the decker

points on the hooks of the needles. With the hooks of the needles caught

in these openings the decker would move again on its first line, and in

the direction indicated by arrow 2 to the point where the latches are

above the loops. Then the deckers push the needles down on the same

line, but in the direction indicated by arrow 1 to the point where the

loops on the needles will close the latches and drop over the hooks on

to the decker points. Then the points raise up with the loops on them,

on the second line again, but in the direction indicated by arrow 3, to

clear the needle hooks.

Now we have the third line of movement, which is in toward the other end

of the needle plate, as indicated by arrow 5, the distance of one needle

space carrying the loops on the decker points. Then they move down on

the second line in the direction indicated by arrow 4, catch the needle

hooks in the openings of the decker points, draw back on first line,

direction of arrow 2 to the point where the loops will slip off the

decker points on to the needles again. The decker then raises up and

retires to its point of rest. This will leave one empty needle at the

end, which is drawn down out of working position by means which will be

explained later.

[Illustration: Fig. 78. Front of Automatic Narrowing Machine.]

The knitting mechanism is now started in operation, and after putting on

the proper number of rounds it stops and the narrowing proceeds as

before. If this explanation of the movements of the decker has been

followed carefully by the reader, he will see that there are but three

lines of movement in the whole narrowing operation proper, though on two

of these lines the movement is in opposite directions at different

times. To do this automatically only three sources must be provided for

the several movements, as the opposite direction of movements on the

same lines come as a matter of course, otherwise there could be but one

movement in any direction on one line.

[Illustration: Fig. 79. Back of Automatic Narrowing Machine Showing

Shaft Carrying Cams for Automatic Movements. View from Right End of

Machine.]

The source of all of these movements is the shaft upon which the bevel

gear (Figs. 75 and 81) is mounted and is designated by the number 9 in

Figs. 75, 79 and 80. It may be plainly seen in the illustrations with

its irregular surfaced cams which perform this work.

Figs. 79 and 80 are views of the back of the machine, both showing the

same parts, but Fig. 79 is a view looking from the right end, or end

upon which the driving mechanism is mounted, while Fig. 80 is a view

from the other or left end looking toward the driving wheel.

[Illustration: Fig. 80. Showing the Same Cam Shaft as Shown in Fig. 79

but from Left End of the Machine.]

Mounting of the Deckers

We will take up the manner of mounting the deckers and the auxiliary

parts through the medium of which the narrowing is done. Referring to

Fig. 77, the decker points may be seen at _a_, _a_, mounted in a clamp

in much the same manner as the hand deckers were mounted. The decker

points, however, are somewhat different from those used in the hand

decker, these latter being solid, either flat or round, while those on

the automatic machine are half-round or U-shaped, as shown in Fig. 76,

to facilitate placing them on the hooks of the needles.

[Illustration: Fig. 81. Gear Arrangement for Starting and Stopping the

Narrowing Mechanism.]

Before proceeding any further, it should be understood that the

narrowing is done on both sets of needles, front and back, by two

separate deckers, therefore most of the parts connected with this

operation that are shown and described, except the cam shaft 9 and its

appurtenances, are in duplicate on front and back of the machine. The

decker point clamp is a part of a yoke which is clamped on the two rods

_b_ and _c_ (Fig. 77) tight enough to permit no play, yet not so tight

but that it will slide freely endwise on the two rods. There are four of

these on each side, front and back, or two for each independent pair of

plates and locks. The rods _b_ and _c_ run the whole length of the

machine and have no end movement, but _b_ is free to move up and down

vertically, while _c_ acts simply as a rocker shaft or pivot upon which

to swing the rod _b_, together with the clamp and decker _a_. The rod

_c_ is mounted through and near the end of the arm _d_, which in its

turn is mounted or pivoted on the rocker shaft 13, Fig. 78, where the

whole arm may be noted. In Fig. 73 the whole five arms that are on the

front of the machine may be seen. These arms are connected with a lever

beneath the needle plates and frame by two flexible straps shown at _f_,

Fig. 77. The lever to which the other end of these straps are attached

may be seen at 1, Fig. 80, also the extension of the arm _d_, at _d_-1.

The spring which is attached to this extension with the other end

attached to a like extension on the opposite arm _d_, is shown at _d_-2.

This spring provides the energy to return the arms to, and hold them in

the position shown in Fig. 77, after the narrowing operation is

completed.

To get the endwise movement of the decker, or the movement we have

designated as 1 and 2 in Fig. 82, we will refer again to Fig. 80 and the

lever 1. This lever is pivoted on the shaft 12 and passes under the

shaft 9. At the point where it passes under to one side of the irregular

cam _d_-3 there is a stud with a roller projecting from one side which

comes under and in contact with the cam _d_-3. We have seen that there

is always an upward pull on this lever 1 through the springs _d_-2, and

the extension _d_-1, the arm proper _d_, and the straps _f_ (Fig. 77),

back down through the center of the machine to the inner end of lever 1,

Fig. 80.

Now it follows, that if the periphery of this cam _d_-3 is irregular,

and the spring _d_-2 always holds the pin with the roller on the side of

lever 1, in close contact with the outside of this cam, then by having

the periphery vary, or at different distances from the center at

different points, the deckers may be moved to any point or held at any

point in a line lengthwise with the decker points by making the

irregularities at the proper place and at the proper distance from the

center.

[Illustration: Fig. 82. Lines of Movement Necessary for Narrowing.]

The explanation of this movement applies to all of the automatic

movements for narrowing or fashioning on this machine. Inasmuch as all

these irregular cams for the different movements are mounted on this

same shaft 9, after once being set right they must always be in

synchronism unless the setting is disturbed by accident. We have seen

how the first movement is secured to bring the openings in the decker

points down to a point directly over the needle hooks. We have assumed

that they were in a line sidewise to begin with. Now we will see how the

second movement, or bringing the deckers down on to the hooks of the

needles after being moved directly over them, and lifting them off

again, is accomplished.

Second and Third Movements

Referring to Fig. 77, it has been explained how the decker points with

their clamp _a_ and yoke are mounted on the rods _b_ and _c_ in such a

manner that they will swing freely with the rod _c_ acting as a pivot.

Referring to Fig. 78, we find that the rods _c_ and _b_ have another

yoke at _i_, which is attached securely to these rods, with a short

extension toward the outside of the machine on which to attach the

connection rod _h_.

If we now turn to Fig. 79, we will find that the connection rod _h_

comes down and is attached at the other end to a lever at _j_. While, as

the reader may surmise, the connection rod _h_, Fig. 78, is on the front

of the machine, and the rod _h_, Fig. 79, is on the back, the

connections and manner of moving are the same. The lever to which this

connection rod _h_ (Fig. 79) is attached at _j_ is mounted on the shaft

13, so as to swing up and down freely, and has an extension on the other

side of the shaft from which there is another rod connecting it with the

inside end of lever 2.

This lever has the proper movements imparted to it through the pin and

roller, which may be plainly seen, resting on the periphery of an

irregular cam, just the same as has been explained for lever 1 for the

first movement, except that the pin and roller rest on the top of the

cam in this instance, while in the former case the pin and roller were

held firmly up against the bottom of the cam by a coil spring.

The third movement to carry the loops in toward the center one needle,

designated in Fig. 82 as 5, is a straight line movement and always in

one direction. But the movement as to distance must be more exact than

either of the others, therefore while the source of the movement is the

same as the others, an irregular cam on the cam shaft 9, the

transmission of it to the deckers is accomplished in an entirely

different manner.

Fine Adjustment Necessary

We will refer again to Fig. 77, where we will find two long flat steel

straps, one on each side of the machine, marked _e_ and _e_. It will be

noted that these straps are attached securely to the yokes that carry

the deckers, as well as to the crossheads or bridges marked _l_ and _m_.

Reaching across from one to the other and attached to these bridges is a

yoke the two arms of which are indicated by _k_ and _k_. These two arms

come together at the center in a hub through which runs the worm or

screw indicated by _g_.

On the outer end of this worm is a small spur gear which meshes into the

gear _h_. Back of the gear _h_ is a ratchet gear, and both are rigidly

attached to the small shaft and turn together. Now it is quite evident

that if the ratchet and gear marked _h_ are turned in the right

direction, which would be the top toward the right, this would turn the

worm, which would move the yoke _k_ and _k_, together with the bridges

_l_ and _m_, also the straps _e_ and _e_, and they, of course, would

move the deckers. The principle of the worm or screw used to make this

movement permits an almost micrometer adjustment of the distance moved.

To find the method used to turn the ratchet gear and spur gear _h_, we

will refer again to Fig. 75, where the ratchet gear is marked _y_ and

its pawl _n_. This will hardly need an explanation, as the method of

working may be plainly seen by following out the pawl lever to the

connection rod _x_, and down to the lever 8, which is raised the proper

distance at just the proper time by the cam directly under it, and in

this manner turns the ratchet.

In narrowing, when it comes to the point where the decker is to be

placed on the needle hooks, it is imperative that the latches of those

needles on which the transferring is to be done are all open, otherwise

the decker will not catch the hook. Also after narrowing down one

needle, the empty needle must be drawn down out of the operating

position. The manner of doing this is as follows: The needles used in

this machine have an extension of the shank, and on the lower end of

this there is another butt as shown at _b_, Fig. 76. This extra butt is

there solely for the manipulation of the needles for this purpose. Just

before the decker is ready to drop on to the needle hooks, the needles

are pushed up part way to meet it by the hoe-shaped part designated by

the letter _o_ in Fig. 78. This hoe is attached to the block _p_, which

in its turn is attached to the long steel strap 17, then the whole is

mounted on a slide directly beneath the strap upon which it may slide

lengthwise of the machine.

The slide is attached to the connecting strap 19, the other end of which

is attached to the lever 20, therefore the hoe _o_ and the block _p_ may

be moved lengthwise of the machine by the strap 17, and the whole,

including the slide beneath and the connecting strap 19, may be moved up

and down on a line with the movement of the needles by swinging the

lever 20, which is pivoted on the rod 18. As the deckers make their

first movement down to align the openings over the needle hooks, the hoe

_o_ is moved upward by the lever 20, and, inasmuch as it is directly

under and contiguous to the lower butts of the needles, it will push

those needles up ahead of it to the point where the loops will open and

lie across the latches, thus leaving the needle hooks free to receive

the deckers. The hoe then retires while the deckers push the needles

down, but is used a number of times in the same manner to assist the

deckers in the manipulation of the needles during the narrowing

operation. In the meantime it is moved over toward the center of the

machine at the same time the deckers are, as it also is connected with

the yoke _k_ and _k_, Fig. 77.

As the deckers are finishing their part of the work, the hoe is moved

upward again and a hooked finger, which lies just at the right and is

almost wholly concealed by the hoe, hooks over the empty needle butt and

draws the needle down out of the operating position as the hoe retires

to the position shown.

The fabric photograph shown in Fig. 74 is part of a storm collar made

for a Shaker sweater. The wide part is that part of the collar that

covers from the top of the shoulder down to where the narrowing stops at

the center of the breast. The narrow strip is a part of the border on

the front opening upon which is placed the buttons and button-holes. It

is narrowed down five needles, with four rounds between in the first

part, while the last part has nine narrowings with one round between.

On this machine, while the narrowing is all automatic, after each

garment or part is finished it is necessary to reset the machine by

hand, that is, push up those needles that have been narrowed down, move

the deckers and hoe back to the starting point by turning the crank _i_,

Fig. 77, then move the carriages across and put in either a comb, or a

hook made specially for this purpose, to hold down the stitches on the

needles just pushed up into working position. Letter _j_ indicates the

yarn leading into the yarn carrier. The numbers 15 in Figs. 79 and 80

indicate the board or stand upon which the yarn is placed for use in the

machine.

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