UPHOLSTERING A BOARD STRUCTURE
A LOW FOOTSTOOL.—This project is chosen for the first work in
upholstery for the reason that it involves the simplest processes
possible. Nailing a piece of leather or strips of leather across a
frame cannot be dignified by the term upholstery. Therefore, such
work is not to be considered under this head. The structure, in
addition to the simple upholstery processes involved, requires but
elementary bench work in wood in its construction.
After staining the stool take a small amount of tow, pull it out
thoroly with the hands until all uneven bunches are eliminated;
then spread it out evenly on the top of the stool as illustrated
in Fig. 6. Then place a piece of muslin over this, tacking it with
4-oz. tacks ¼ inch from the edges of the board. The muslin should be
folded over on itself at the edges, and stretched very taut. Tack
each side first, then work toward corners. This method of tacking
insures a smooth, taut surface, and should be followed always. Use
the regulator, Fig. 7, to even out any irregularities and to force
the tow well out toward the outer edges of the muslin. Then lay a
piece of wadding over this to make a smooth surface; see Fig. 7.
Next stretch a piece of Marokene leather of the color desired over
the previous layers and secure it with 2½-oz. tacks. These should be
placed about 2 inches apart, ¼ inch from the edges of the stool, and
surplus fabric trimmed to ⅛ inch from edges. Finally, cut a piece of
gimp and secure with Metalene nails as shown in Fig. 8. Fold the gimp
at the corners and splice at the last corner. Place the nails equal
distances apart on parallel edges. Be sure that the leather, gimp
and nails harmonize with each other and these with the final color of
the stool.
A CART.—The different processes for upholstering a cart, illustrated
in Fig. 9, are identical to those just described, with the exception
that a margin is left at the edges of the seat. The cart suggests a
very practical application of simple upholstery, either in covering a
wood seat or in replacing a worn upholstered seat.
[Illustration: FIG. 6]
A LEG REST.—The processes of upholstering the leg rest shown in
Fig. 10 vary substantially from those already discussed. Here is
the first introduction to a hard edge. Reference to Fig. 10 will
show how this edge is made. Chamfer the upper arris of the seat as
wide as the tack head and drive the tacks in at right angles to the
chamfer. This method avoids splitting the corners. The near side of
the illustration shows a piece of burlap tacked with two-thirds of
its width overhanging. Use 4-oz. tacks for this purpose, and tack in
such a way that the heads of the tacks are _even with the edge_ of
the seat.
After the burlap has been secured in this way insert a small roll
of tow or a strand or two of welt cord under the burlap at the edge
of the seat. The diameter of this roll may vary from ¼ to ½ inch as
desired. Bring the burlap over and around the firmly packed tow or
cord, and tack down extremely close to the roll, keeping the roll
round. Special effort should be made to keep the roll smooth and
even, for its form determines the final form. The rear side of the
illustration, Fig. 10, shows the completed roll.
[Illustration: FIG. 7]
Strips of webbing may be employed in place of burlap. Webbing is a
closer woven fabric than burlap, and in consequence produces a more
even roll. And webbing cord is preferable to tow for it requires less
time to place and results in a smooth edging.
The strip of soft wood shown in the illustration is called an
upholstery block. Gimp and muslin are secured to this block. Without
these blocks, one at each end, the cover could not be placed without
much labor and resulting unsightly folds at the corners.
After the corner strips are placed and the rolls formed, place
sufficient tow on the seat to produce a slightly rounded top when the
tow is pressed down firmly with the hands. The tow must be picked,
that is, pulled out thoroly to make it even and fluffy. Place over
this a piece of muslin, tacking it temporarily at the center of each
side with several 2½-oz. tacks. These should be only partly driven, a
process called slip-tacking or loose-tacking. Stretch it tightly, and
bring the threads of the muslin in line with the edges of the seat.
Next pull out the tacks from one side and re-stretch the muslin by
stroking it several times with the left hand, always holding it with
the right. Do this on each side in succession. An expert workman will
hold the tacks in his mouth and the hammer in the right hand during
the whole process. After the muslin has been placed use the regulator
and re-distribute the tow should any unevenness exist. This process
is called regulating.
[Illustration: FIG. 8]
[Illustration: FIG. 9]
Next place the cover. Whether it be genuine leather, leather
substitute or textile fabric, proceed as with the muslin omitting
folding the edges. Stretch the cover tightly and tack with 2½-oz.
tacks. Place the tacks a small fraction of an inch from the lower
edge of the board so the trimming of the cover may be easily done.
Apply the gimp. This covers the raw edges of the materials and tack
heads. Start at the right-hand corner, fastening it with a 2½-oz.
tack. Carry it across to the left-hand corner and fasten with another
tack. Fold it upon itself so as to form a definite crease then twist
it over and carry it up and along the soft wood strip to the next
corner. Repeat this process to the starting point; then cut the gimp
off flush with the bottom of the board and secure with a tack. As
the forty-five degree folds are made, the gimp nails should also
be driven in place. Fig. 11 shows the steps in making the folds at
the corners. Space distances equally and place all gimp nails. A
desirable distance is from 1½ to 2½ inches—depending on the cover
material. A quick way to place these nails is to drive a nail in the
middle of an edge, then one in the half way points between this and
each corner, and so on. This process gives good eye training. Fig. 12
shows completed leg rest.
[Illustration: FIG. 10]
[Illustration: FIG. 11]
A FOOTSTOOL.—The upholstery operations on the stool shown in Fig.
13 are very similar to those on the leg rest. The rolls are formed
identically but are placed on four sides. Special care must be
exercised to keep the corners firm and even, and in line with other
parts of the rolls. The cover needs folding at the corners to make
it smooth. The gimp runs continuously around the edge without folds.
This form of stool requires a greater amount of upholstery material
than the first form, and is not as pleasing in structural design, but
is a more comfortable structure.
[Illustration: FIG. 12]
[Illustration: FIG. 13]
MATERIALS REQUIRED.—This stool, with top 9×14 inches requires the
following materials for upholstering:
QUANTITY MATERIAL SIZE
2 pieces Burlap 3×14½ inches
2 pieces Burlap 3×8 inches
70 Tacks 4 ounce
10 ounces Tow
1 piece Muslin 11×18 inches
60 Tacks 2½ ounce (For muslin and cover)
1 piece Marokene 12×17 inches
46 inches Gimp
14 Metalene Nails