of all kinds, and have the merit of being both cheap and wholesome.
They may be procured of all grocers and oilmen. The basis of all
baking powders consists of carbonate of soda and tartaric acid or
cream of tartar, and egg powders are made of the same materials, with
a little harmless colouring matter such as turmeric. By the action of
these substances, carbonic acid is generated in the dough, which
causes it to rise in the same manner as the so-called "aerated bread"
made on Dr. Dauglish's system, by which carbonic acid is forced into
the dough before baking.
[NEVER PUT OFF TILL TO-MORROW WHAT YOU CAN DO TO-DAY.]
1012. How to Use Baking Powder, &c.
Baking powder may be used instead of yeast in making all kinds of
bread, cake, teacakes, &c., and for biscuits and pastry, either
without or in combination with butter, suet, &c. Bread, &c., made with
baking powder is never placed before the fire to rise as when made
with yeast, but the dough may be shaped and put into the oven as soon
as it is made. The chief points to bear in remembrance are that in
making bread two teaspoonfuls of baking powder should be used to every
pound of flour, but for pastry, cakes, buns, &c., three teaspoonfuls
should be used. The ingredients should always be thoroughly
incorporated by mixing; the tins on which or in which the dough is
placed to bake should be well floured, and not greased; and the oven
should always be very hot, so that the baking may be effected as
rapidly as possible.
1013. Bread (Cheap and Excellent).
Simmer slowly, over a gentle fire, a pound of rice in three quarts of
water, till the rice has become perfectly soft, and the water is
either evaporated or imbibed by the rice: let it become cool, but not
cold, and mix it completely with four pounds of flour; add to it some
salt, and about four tablespoonfuls of yeast. Knead it very
thoroughly, for on this depends whether or not your good materials
produce a superior article. Next let it rise well before the fire,
make it up into loaves with a little of the flour--which, for that
purpose, you must reserve from your four pounds--and bake it rather
long. This is an exceedingly good and cheap bread.
1014. Economical and Nourishing Bread.
Suffer the miller to remove from the flour only the coarse flake bran.
Of this bran, boil five or six pounds in four and a half gallons of
water; when the goodness is extracted from the bran,--during which
time the liquor will waste half or three-quarters of a gallon,--strain
it and let it cool. When it has cooled down to the temperature of new
milk, mix it with fifty-six pounds of flour and as much salt and yeast
as would be used for other bread; knead it exceedingly well; let it
rise before the fire, and bake it in small loaves: small loaves are
preferable to large ones, because they take the heat more equally.
There are two advantages in making bread with bran water instead of
plain water; the one being that there is considerable nourishment in
bran, which is thus extracted and added to the bread; the other, that
flour imbibes much more of bran water than it does of plain water; so
much more, as to give in the bread produced almost a fifth in weight
more than the quantity of flour made up with plain water would have
done. These are important considerations to the poor. Fifty-six pounds
of flour, made with plain water, would produce sixty-nine and a half
pounds of bread; made with bran water, it will produce eighty-three
and a half pounds.
1015. Use Bran-Water.
A great increase on Home-made Bread, even equal to one-fifth, may be
produced by using bran water for kneading the dough. The proportion is
three pounds of bran for every twenty-eight pounds of flour, to be
boiled for an hour, and then strained through a hair sieve.
1016. Rye and Wheat Flour.
Rye and wheat flour, in equal quantities, make an excellent and
economical bread.
1017. Potatoes in Bread.
Place in a large dish fifteen pounds of flour near the fire to warm;
take five pounds of good potatoes, those of a mealy kind being
preferable, peel and boil them as if for the table, mash them fine,
and then mix with them as much cold water as will allow all except
small lumps to pass through a coarse sieve into the flour, which will
now be ready to receive them; add yeast, &c., and mix for bread in the
usual way. This plan has been followed for some years: finding that
bread made according to it is much superior to that made of flour
only, and on this ground alone we recommend its adoption; but in
addition to this, taking the high price of flour, and moderately low
price of potatoes, here is a saving of over twenty per cent., which is
surely an object worth attending to by those of limited means.
[ALL THINGS HAVE A BEGINNING, GOD EXCEPTED.]
1018. Use of Lime Water in making Bread.
It has lately been found that water saturated with lime produces in
bread the same whiteness, softness, and capacity of retaining
moisture, as results from the use of alum; while the former removes
all acidity from the dough, and supplies an ingredient needed in the
structure of the bones, but which is deficient in the _cerealia_. The
best proportion to use is, five pounds of water saturated with lime,
to every nineteen pounds of flour. No change is required in the
process of baking. The lime most effectually coagulates the gluten,
and the bread weighs well; bakers must therefore approve of its
introduction, which is not injurious to the system, like alum, &c.
1019. Rice Bread.
Take one pound and a half of rice, and boil it gently over a slow fire
in three quarts of water about five hours, stirring it, and afterwards
beating it up into a smooth paste. Mix this, while warm, into two
gallons or four pounds of flour, adding at the same time the usual
quantity of yeast. Allow the dough to work a certain time near the
fire, after which divide it into loaves, and it will be found, when
baked, to produce twenty-eight or thirty pounds of excellent white
bread.
1020. Apple Bread.
A very light, pleasant bread is made in France by a mixture of apples
and flour, in the proportion of one of the former to two of the
latter. The usual quantity of yeast is employed, as in making common
bread, and is beaten with flour and warm pulp of the apples after they
have boiled, and the dough is then considered as set; it is then put
in a proper vessel, and allowed to rise for eight or twelve hours, and
then baked in long loaves. Very little water is requisite: none,
generally, if the apples are very fresh.
1021. Pulled Bread.
Take from the oven an ordinary loaf when it is about _half baked_, and
with the fingers, while the bread is yet hot, dexterously pull the
half-set dough into pieces of irregular shape, about the size of an
egg. Don't attempt to smooth or flatten them--the rougher their shapes
the better. Set upon tins, place in a very slow oven, and bake to a
rich brown. This forms a deliciously crisp crust for cheese. If you do
not bake at home, your baker will prepare it for you, if ordered.
Pulled bread may be made in the revolving ovens. It is very nice with
wine instead of biscuits.
1022. French Bread and Rolls.
Take a pint and a half of milk; make it quite warm; half a pint of
small-beer yeast; add sufficient flour to make it as thick as batter;
put it into a pan; cover it over, and keep it warm: when it has risen
as high as it will, add a quarter of a pint of warm water, and half an
ounce of salt,--mix them well together,--rub into a little flour two
ounces of butter; then make your dough, not quite so stiff as for your
bread; let it stand for three-quarters of an hour, and it will be
ready to make into rolls, &c.:--let them stand till they have risen,
and bake them in a quick oven.
1023. Rolls.
Mix the salt with the flour. Make a deep hole in the middle. Stir the
warm water into the yeast, and pour it into the hole in the flour.
Stir it with a spoon just enough to make a thin batter, and sprinkle
some flour over the top. Cover the pan, and set it in a warm place for
several hours. When it is light, add half a pint more of lukewarm
water, and make it, with a little more flour, into a dough. Knead it
very well for ten minutes. Then divide it into small pieces, and knead
each separately. Make them into round cakes or rolls. Cover them, and
set them to rise about an hour and a half. Bake them, and, when done,
let them remain in the oven, without the lid, for about ten minutes.
[GOD IS THE FIRST OF ALL.]
1024. Sally Lunn Tea Cakes.
Take one pint of milk quite warm, a quarter of a pint of thick
small-beer yeast; put them into a pan with flour sufficient to make it
as thick as batter,--cover it over, and let it stand till it has
risen as high as it will, i. e., about two hours: add two ounces of
lump sugar, dissolved in a quarter of a pint of warm milk, a quarter
of a pound of butter rubbed into the flour very fine,--then make the
dough the same as for French rolls, &c.; let it stand half an hour;
then make up the cakes, and put them on tins:--when they have stood to
rise, bake them in a quick oven. Care should be taken never to mix the
yeast with water or milk too hot or too cold, as either extreme will
destroy the fermentation. In summer it should he lukewarm,--in winter
a little warmer,--and in very cold weather, warmer still. When it has
first risen, if you are not prepared, it will not harm if it stand an
hour.
1025. Cooking Instruments.
1026. The Gridiron.
The gridiron, though the simplest of cooking instruments, is by no
means to be despised. In common with all cooking utensils the
Gridiron should be kept scrupulously clean; and when it is used, the
bars should be allowed to get warm before the meat is placed upon it,
otherwise the parts crossed by the bars will be insufficiently
dressed. The fire should be sharp, clear, and free from smoke. The
heat soon forms a film upon the surface of the meat, by which the
juices are retained. Chops and steaks should not be too thick nor too
thin. From a half to three-quarters of an inch is the proper
thickness. Avoid thrusting the fork into the meat, by which you
release the juice. There is a description of gridiron in which the
bars are grooved to catch the juice of the meat, but a much better
invention is the upright gridiron, which is attached to the front of
the grate, and has a pan at the bottom to catch the gravy. Kidneys,
rashers, &c., dressed in this manner will he found delicious.
1027. The Frying-pan
The frying-pan is a noisy and a greasy servant, requiring much
watchfulness. Like the Gridiron, the Frying-pan requires a clear but
not a large fire, and the pan should be allowed to get thoroughly hot,
and be well covered with fat, before meat is put into it. The
excellence of frying very much depends upon the sweetness of the oil,
butter, lard, or fat that may be employed. The Frying-pan is very
useful in the warming of cold vegetables and other kinds of food, and
in this respect may be considered a real friend of economy. All know
the relish afforded by a pancake, to say nothing of eggs and bacon,
and various kinds of fish, to which both the Saucepan and the Gridiron
are quite unsuited, because they require that which is the essence of
frying, _boiling and browning in fat_.
1028. The Spit.
The spit is a very ancient and very useful implement of cockery.
Perhaps the process of roasting stands only second in the rank of
excellence in cookery. The process is perfectly sound in its chemical
effects upon the food, while the joint is kept so immediately under
the eye of the cook, that it must be the fault of that functionary if
it does not go to the table in the highest state of perfection. The
process of roasting should be commenced very slowly, the meat being
kept a good distance from the fire, and gradually brought forward,
until it is thoroughly soaked within and browned without. The Spit has
this advantage over the Oven, and especially over the common oven,
that the meat retains its own flavour, not having to encounter the
evaporation from fifty different dishes, and that the steam from its
own substance passes entirely away, leaving the essence of the meat in
its primest condition.
[VIRTUE IS THE FAIREST OF ALL.]
1029. The Meat Hook.
The meat hook has in the present day superseded the use of the Spit in
middle class families. It is thrust into the meat, and the joint
thereby suspended before the fire. For roasting in this manner the
lintel of the mantel-piece is furnished with a brass or iron arm,
turning on pivots in a plate fastened to the lintel, and notched along
its upper edge. From this arm, which is turned back against the lintel
when not in use, the meat is hung and turned by means of a bottle-jack
or a skein of worsted, knotted in three or four places, which answers
the purpose equally well, and may be replaced by a new one when
required, at a merely nominal cost. Meat roasted in this manner should
be turned occasionally, the hook being inserted first at one end and
then at the other.
1030. The Dutch Oven.
The Dutch oven is of great utility for small dishes of various kinds,
which the Spit would spoil by the magnitude of its operations, or the
Oven destroy by the severity of its heat. It combines, in fact, the
advantages of roasting and baking, and may be adopted for compound
dishes, and for warming cold scraps: it is easily heated, and causes
no material expenditure of fuel.
1031. The Saucepan.
When we come to speak of the Saucepan, we have to consider the claims
of a very large, ancient, and useful family. There are large
saucepans, dignified with the name of Boilers, and small saucepans,
which come under the denomination of Stewpans. There are few kinds of
meat or fish which the Saucepan will not receive, and dispose of in a
satisfactory manner; and few vegetables for which it is not adapted.
When rightly used, it is a very economical servant, allowing nothing
to be lost; that which escapes from the meat while in its charge forms
broth, or may be made the basis of soups. Fat rises upon the surface
of the water, and may be skimmed off; while in various stews it
combines, in an eminent degree, what we may term the _fragrance_ of
cookery, and the _piquancy_ of taste. The French are perfect masters
of the use of the Stewpan. And we shall find that, as all cookery is
but an aid to digestion, the operations of the Stewpan resemble the
action of the stomach very closely. The stomach is a close sac, in
which solids and fluids are mixed together, macerated in the gastric
juice, and dissolved by the aid of heat and motion, occasioned by the
continual contractions and relaxations of the coats of the stomach
during the action of digestion. This is more closely resembled by the
process of stewing than by any other of our culinary methods.
1032. Various Processes of Cooking.
1033. Utility of the Kitchen.
"In the hands of an expert cook," says Majendie, "alimentary
substances are made almost entirely to change their nature, their
form, consistence, odour, savour, colour, chemical composition, &c.;
everything is so modified, that it is often impossible for the most
exquisite sense of taste to recognise the substance which makes up
the basis of certain dishes. The greatest utility of the kitchen
consists in making the food agreeable to the senses, and rendering
it easy of digestion."
1034. Theory of Cooking.
To some extent the claims of either process of cooking depend upon the
taste of the individual. Some persons may esteem the peculiar flavour
of fried meats, while others will prefer broils or stews. It is
important, however, to understand the _theory_ of each method of
cooking, so that whichever may be adopted, may be done well. Bad
cooking, though by a good method, is far inferior to good cooking by a
bad method.
1035. Roasting.--Beef.
A sirloin of about fifteen pounds (if much more in weight the outside
will be done too much before the inner side is sufficiently roasted),
will require to be before the fire about three and a half or four
hours. Take care to spit it evenly, that it may not be heavier on one
side than the other; put a little clean dripping into the dripping
pan (tie a sheet of paper over it to preserve the fat) baste it well
as soon as it is put down, and every quarter of an hour all the time
it is roasting, till the last half-hour; then take off the paper and
make some gravy for it, stir the fire and make it clear; to brown and
froth it, sprinkle a little salt over it, baste it with butter, and
dredge it with flour; let it go a few minutes longer, till the froth
rises, take it up, put it on the dish, &c. Garnish it with
horseradish, scraped as fine as possible with a very sharp knife.
[VICE IS THE MOST HURTFUL OF ALL.]
1036. Yorkshire Pudding
A Yorkshire Pudding is an excellent accompaniment to roast beef.
1037. Ribs of Beef.
The first three ribs, of fifteen or twenty pounds, will take three
hours, or three and a half; the fourth and fifth ribs will take as
long, managed in the same way as the sirloin. Paper the fat and the
thin part, or it will be done too much, before the thick part is done
enough.
1038. Ribs of Beef boned and rolled.
Keep two or three ribs of beef till quite tender, take out the bones,
and skewer the meat as round as possible, like a fillet of veal. Some
cooks egg it, and sprinkle it with veal stuffing before rolling it. As
the meat is in a solid mass, it will require more time at the fire
than ribs of beef with the bones: a piece of ten or twelve pounds
weight will not be well and thoroughly roasted in less than four and a
half or five hours. For the first half-hour it should not be less than
twelve inches from the fire, that it may get gradually warm to the
centre; the last half-hour before it is finished, sprinkle a little
salt over it, and, if you like, flour it, to froth it.
1039. Mutton.
As beef requires a large sound fire, mutton must have a brisk and
sharp one: if you wish to have mutton tender it should be hung as long
as it will keep, and then good eight-tooth (_i.e._,four years old)
mutton, is as good eating as venison.
1040. The Leg, Haunch, and Saddle
The leg, haunch, and saddle, will be the better for being hung up in a
cool airy place for four or five days, at least; in temperate weather,
a week: in cold weather, ten days, A leg of eight pounds will take
about two hours; let it be well basted.
1041. A Chine or Saddle.
_i.e._ the two loins, of ten or eleven pounds--two hours and a half.
It is the business of the butcher to take off the skin and skewer it
on again, to defend the meat from extreme heat, and preserve its
succulence. If this is neglected, tie a sheet of paper over it; baste
the strings you tie it on with directly, or they will burn. About a
quarter of an hour before you think it will be done, take off the skin
or paper, that it may get a pale brown colour, and then baste it, and
flour it lightly to froth it.
1042. A Shoulder.
A shoulder, of seven pounds, an hour and three-quarters, or even two
hours. If a spit is used, put it in close to the shank-bone, and run
it along the blade-bone.
1043. A Loin of Mutton.
A loin of mutton, from an hour and a half to an hour and
three-quarters. The most elegant way of carving this is to cut it
lengthwise, as you do a saddle. A neck, about the same time as a loin.
It must be carefully jointed to prevent any difficulty in carving.
1044. The Neck and Breast.
The neck and breast are, in small families, commonly roasted together.
The cook will then crack the bones across the middle before they are
put down to roast. If this is not done carefully, the joint is very
troublesome to carve. Time for a breast, an hour and a quarter. The
breast when eaten by itself is better stewed. It may be boned, rolled,
and then roasted. A belly of pork is excellent in this way, when
boned, stuffed, and roasted.
1045. A Haunch.
_i.e._, the leg and part of the loin of mutton. Send up two
sauce-boats with it; one of rich-drawn mutton gravy, made without
spice or herbs, and the other of sweet sauce. A haunch generally
weighs about fifteen pounds, and requires about three hours and a half
to roast it.
[THOUGHT IS THE MOST SWIFT OF ALL.]
1046. Mutton _(Venison fashion)_.
Take a neck of good four or five-year-old Southdown wether mutton, cut
long in the bones; let it hang in mild weather, at least a week. Two
days before you dress it, take allspice and black pepper, ground and
pounded fine, a quarter of an ounce each, rub them together and then
rub your mutton well with this mixture twice a day. When you dress it,
wash off the spice with warm water, and roast it in paste.
1047. Veal
Veal requires particular care to roast it a nice brown. Let the fire
be the same as for beef; a sound large fire for a large joint, and a
brisker for a smaller; put it at some distance from the fire to soak
thoroughly, and then draw it nearer to finish it brown. When first
laid down it is to be basted; baste it again occasionally. When the
veal is on the dish, pour over it half a pint of melted butter; if you
have a little brown gravy by you, add that to the butter. With those
joints which are not stuffed, send up forcemeat in balls, or rolled
into sausages, as garnish to the dish, or fried pork sausages. Bacon
is always eaten with veal.
1048. Fillet of Veal.
Fillet of veal of from twelve to sixteen pounds, will require from
four to five hours at a good fire: make some stuffing or forcemeat,
and put it under the flap, that there may be some left to eat cold, or
to season a hash: brown it, and pour good melted butter over it.
Garnish with thin slices of lemon, and cakes or balls of stuffing, or
duck stuffing, or fried pork sausages, curry sauce, bacon, &c.
1049. A Loin.
A loin is the best part of the calf, and will take about three hours
roasting. Paper the kidney fat, and the back: some cooks send it up on
a toast, which is eaten with the kidney and the fat of this part,
which is more delicate than any marrow, &c. If there is more of it
than you think will be eaten with the veal, before you roast it cut it
out, it will make an excellent suet pudding: take care to have your
fire long enough to brown the ends.
1050. A Shoulder of Veal
A shoulder of veal, from three hours to three hours and a half: stuff
it with the forcemeat ordered for the fillet of veal, in the under
side.
1051. Neck
Neck, best end, will take two hours. The scrag part is best made into
a pie or broth. Breast, from an hour and a half to two hours. Let the
caul remain till it is almost done, then take it off to brown the
meat; baste, flour, and froth it.
1052. Veal Sweetbread.
Trim a fine sweetbread--it cannot be too fresh; parboil it for five
minutes, and throw it into a basin of cold water; roast it plain, or
beat up the yolk of an egg, and prepare some fine bread-crumbs. Or
when the sweetbread is cold, dry it thoroughly in a cloth, run a lark
spit or a skewer through it, and tie it on the ordinary spit; egg it
with a paste brush, powder it well with bread-crumbs, and roast it.
For sauce, put fried bread-crumbs round it, and melted butter with a
little mushroom ketchup and lemon juice, or serve on buttered toast,
garnished with egg sauce, or with gravy.
1053. Lamb
Lamb is a delicate, and commonly considered tender meat; but those who
talk of tender lamb, while they are thinking of the age of the animal,
forget that even a chicken must be kept a proper time after it has
been killed, or it will be tough eating. To the usual accompaniments
of roast meat, green mint sauce or a salad is commonly added: and some
cooks, about five minutes before it is done, sprinkle it with a little
minced parsley.
1054. Grass-Lamb.
Grass-Lamb is in season from Easter to Michaelmas.
1055. House-Lamb.
House-Lamb from Christmas to Lady-day.
1056. Mint.
When green mint cannot be got, mint vinegar is an acceptable
substitute for it.
1057. Roasting a Hind-Quarter.
Hind-quarter of eight pounds will take from an hour and three-quarters
to two hours; baste and froth it.
1058. Roasting a Fore-Quarter.
Fore-quarter of ten pounds, about two hours.
1059. Preparation.
It is a pretty general Custom, when you take off the shoulder from the
ribs, to rub them with a lump of butter, and then to squeeze a lemon
or Seville orange over them, and sprinkle them with a little pepper
and salt.
[HOPE IS THE MOST COMMON OF ALL.]
1060. Roasting a Leg.
Leg of five pounds, from an hour to an hour and a half.
1061. Roasting a Shoulder.
Shoulder, with a quick fire, an hour.
1062. Roasting Ribs.
Ribs, about an hour to an hour and a quarter; joint it nicely; crack
the ribs across, and bend them up to make it easy for the carver.
1063. Roasting Loin, Neck or Breast.
Loin, an hour and a quarter. Neck an hour. Breast, three-quarters of
an hour.
1064. Poultry, Game, &c.