CHAPTER VIII--RECREATION

To return, after a long digression. The age of manly sport, as above

described, has long passed away; and the only hope is for a revival

under the changing conditions of modern China. Some few athletic

exercises have survived; and until recently, archery, in which the

Tartars have always excelled, was regarded almost as a semi-divine

accomplishment. Kite-flying has reached a high level of skill. Clever

little "messengers" have been devised, which run up the string, carrying

fire-crackers which explode at a great height. There is a game of

shuttlecock, without the battledore, for which the feet are used as

a substitute; and "diavolo," recently introduced into Europe, is an

ancient Chinese pastime. A few Manchus, too, may be seen skating during

the long northern winter, but the modern inhabitant of the Flowery Land,

be he Manchu or Chinese, much prefers an indoor game to anything

else, especially when, as is universally the case, a stake of money is

involved.

Gambling is indeed a very marked feature of Chinese life. A child buying

a cake will often go double or quits with the stall-keeper, to see if he

is to have two cakes or nothing, the question being settled by a throw

of dice in a bowl. Of the interval allowed for meals, a gang of coolies

will devote a portion to a game of cards. The cards used are smaller

than the European pack, and of course differently marked; they were the

invention of a lady of the Palace in the tenth century, who substituted

imitation leaves of gilt paper for real leaves, which had previously

been adopted for playing some kind of game. There are also various games

played with chequers, some of great antiquity; and there is chess, that

is to say, a game so little differing from our chess as to leave no

doubt as to the common origin of both. In all of these the money element

comes in; and it is not too much to say that more homes are broken

up, and more misery caused by this truly national vice than can be

attributed to any other cause.

For pleasure pure and simple, independent of gains and losses, the

theatre occupies the warmest place in every Chinaman's heart. If

gambling is a national vice in China, the drama must be set off as the

national recreation. Life would be unthinkable to the vast majority

if its monotony were not broken by the periodical performance of

stage-plays. It is from this source that a certain familiarity with the

great historical episodes of the past may be pleasantly picked up over

a pipe and a cup of tea; while the farce, occasionally perhaps erring on

the side of breadth, affords plenty of merriment to the laughter-loving

crowd.

Ability to make Chinamen laugh is a great asset; and a foreigner who

carries this about with him will find it stand him in much better stead

than a revolver. When, many years ago, a vessel was wrecked on the coast

of Formosa, the crew and passengers were at once seized, and confined

for some time in a building, where traces of their inscriptions could be

seen up to quite a recent date. At length, they were all taken out for

execution; but before the ghastly order was carried out, one of the

number so amused everybody by cutting capers and turning head over

heels, that the presiding mandarin said he was a funny fellow, and

positively allowed him to escape.

With regard to the farce itself, it is not so much the actual wit of

the dialogue which carries away the audience as the refined skill of the

actor, who has to pass through many trials before he is considered to be

fit for the stage. Beginning as quite a boy, in addition to committing

to memory a large number of plays--not merely his own part, but the

whole play--he has to undergo a severe physical training, part of which

consists in standing for an hour every day with his mouth wide open, to

inhale the morning air. He is taught to sing, to walk, to strut, and to

perform a variety of gymnastic exercises, such as standing on his head,

or turning somersaults. His first classification is as male or female

actor, no women having been allowed to perform since the days of the

Emperor Ch'ien Lung (A.D. 1736-1796), whose mother was an actress, just

as in Shakespeare's time the parts for women were always taken by young

men or boys. When once this is settled, it only remains to enrol him as

tragedian, comedian, low-comedy actor, walking gentleman or lady, and

similar parts, according to his capabilities.

It is not too much to say that women are very little missed on the

Chinese stage. The make-up of the actor is so perfect, and his imitation

of the feminine voice and manner, down to the smallest detail, even to

the small feet, is so exact in every point, that he would be a clever

observer who could positively detect impersonation by a man.

Generally speaking, a Chinese actor has many more difficulties to face

than his colleague in the West. In addition to the expression of all

shades of feeling, from mirth to melancholy, the former has to keep up

a perpetual make-believe in another sense, which is further great

strain upon his nerves. There being no scenery, no furniture, and no

appointments of any except the slenderest kind upon the stage, he has

to create in the minds of his audience a belief that all these missing

accessories are nevertheless before their eyes. A general comes upon the

scene, with a whip in his hand, and a studied movement not only suggests

that he is dismounting from a horse, but outlines the animal itself. In

the same manner, he remounts and rides off again; while some other actor

speaks from the top of a small table, which is forthwith transfigured,

and becomes to all intents and purposes a castle.

Many of those who might be apt to smile at the simple Chinese mind which

can tolerate such absurdities in the way of make-believe, require to

be reminded that the stage in the days of Queen Elizabeth was worked on

very much the same lines. Sir Philip Sidney tells us that the scene of

an imagined garden with imagined flowers had to do duty at one time for

an imagined shipwreck, and at another for an imagined battlefield, the

spectator in the latter case being helped out by two opposing soldiers

armed with swords and bucklers. Even Shakespeare, in the Prologue to

his play of _Henry V_, speaks of imagining one man to be an army of a

thousand, and says:--

Think, when we talk of horses that you see them

Printing their proud hoofs i' the receiving earth;

For 'tis your thoughts that now must deck our kings.

Here, then, is good authority for the quaint system that still prevails

in China.

Hundreds of Chinese pilgrims annually went their weary way to the top of

Mount Omi in the province of Ssuch'uan, and gaze downward from a sheer

and lofty precipice to view a huge circular belt of light, which is

called the Glory of Buddha. Some see it, some do not; the Chinese say

that the whole thing is a question of faith. In a somewhat similar

sense, the dramatic enthusiast sees before him such beings of the mind

as the genuine actor is able to call up. The Philistine cannot reach

this pitch; but he is sharp enough to see other things which to the eye

of the sympathetic spectator are absolutely non-existent. Some of the

latter will be enumerated below.

The Chinese stage has no curtain; and the orchestra is on the stage

itself, behind the actors. There is no prompter and no call-boy. Stage

footmen wait at the sides to carry in screens, small tables, and an odd

chair or two, to represent houses, city walls, and so on, or hand cups

of tea to the actors when their throats become dry from vociferous

singing, which is always in falsetto. All this in the face of the

audience. Dead people get up and walk off the stage; or while lying

dead, contrive to alter their facial expression, and then get up and

carry themselves off. There is no interval between one play and the

next following, which probably gives rise to the erroneous belief

that Chinese plays are long, the fact being that they are very short.

According to the Penal Code, there may be no impersonation of emperors

and empresses of past ages, but this clause is now held to refer solely

to the present dynasty.

For the man in the street and his children, there are to be seen

everywhere in China where a sufficient number of people gather together,

Punch-and-Judy shows of quite a high class in point of skill and general

attractiveness. These shows are variously traced back to the eighth and

second centuries B.C., and to the seventh century A.D., even the

latest of which periods would considerably antedate the appearance of

performing marionettes in this country or on the Continent. Associated

with the second century B.C., the story runs that the Emperor of the day

was closely besieged by a terrible Hun chieftain, who was accompanied

by his wife. It occurred to one of his Majesty's staff to exhibit on

the walls of the town, in full view of the enemy, a number of manikins,

dressed up to a deceptive resemblance to beautiful girls. The wife of

the Hun chieftain then persuaded her husband to draw off his forces, and

the Emperor escaped.

By the Chinese marionettes, little plays on familiar subjects are

performed; many are of a more serious turn than the loves of Mr. Punch,

while others again are of the knock-about style so dear to the ordinary

boy and girl. Besides such entertainments as these, the streets of a

Chinese city offer other shows to those who desire to be amused. An

acrobat, a rope-dancer or a conjurer will take up a pitch right in the

middle of the roadway, and the traffic has to get on as best it can.

A theatrical stage will sometimes completely block a street, and even

foot-passengers will have to find their way round. There is also the

public story-reader, who for his own sake will choose a convenient spot

near to some busy thoroughfare; and there, to an assembled crowd, he

will read out, not in the difficult book-language, but in the colloquial

dialect of the place, stories of war and heroism, soldiers led to

night-attacks with wooden bits in their mouths to prevent them from

talking in the ranks, the victory of the loyal and the rout and

slaughter of the rebel. Or it may be a tale of giants, goblins and

wizards; the bewitching of promising young men by lovely maidens who

turn out to be really foxes in disguise, ending as usual in the triumph

of virtue and the discomfiture of vice. The fixed eyes and open mouths

of the crowd, listening with rapt attention, is a sight which, once

seen, is not easily forgotten.

For the ordinary man, China is simply peopled with bogies and devils,

the spirits of the wicked or of those unfortunate enough not to secure

decent burial with all its accompanying worship and rites. These

creatures, whose bodies cast no shadow, lurk in dark corners, ready to

pounce on some unwary passer-by and possibly tear out his heart. Many a

Confucianist, sturdy in his faith that "devils only exist for those who

believe in them," will hesitate to visit by night a lonely spot, or even

to enter a disused tumbledown building by day. Some of the stories

told are certainly well fitted to make a deep impression upon young

and highly-strung nerves. For instance, one man who was too fond of

the bottle placed some liquor alongside his bed, to be drunk during the

night. On stretching out his hand to reach the flask, he was seized by a

demon, and dragged gradually into the earth. In response to his shrieks,

his relatives and neighbours only arrived in time to see the ground

close over his head, just as though he had fallen into water.

From this story it will be rightly gathered that the Chinese mostly

sleep on the ground floor. In Peking, houses of more than one storey

are absolutely barred; the reason being that each house is built round a

courtyard, which usually has trees in it, and in which the ladies of

the establishment delight to sit and sew, and take the air and all the

exercise they can manage to get.

Another blood-curdling story is that of four travellers who arrived by

night at an inn, but could obtain no other accommodation than a room in

which was lying the corpse of the landlord's daughter-in-law. Three of

the four were soon snoring; the fourth, however, remained awake, and

very soon heard a creaking of the trestles on which was the dead body

dressed out in paper robes, ready for burial. To his horror he saw the

girl get up, and go and breathe on his companions; so by the time she

came to him he had his head tucked well under the bedclothes. After a

little while he kicked one of the others; but finding that his friend

did not move, he suddenly grabbed his own trousers and made a bolt for

the door. In a moment the corpse was up and after him, following him

down the street, and gaining gradually on him, no one coming to the

rescue in spite of his loud shrieks as he ran. So he slipped behind

a tree, and dodged right and left, the infuriated corpse also dodging

right and left, and making violent efforts to get him. At length, the

girl made a rush forward with one arm on each side, in the hope of thus

grabbing her victim. The traveller, however, fell backwards and escaped

her clutch, while she remained rigidly embracing the tree. By and by he

was found senseless on the ground; and the corpse was removed from the

tree, but with great difficulty, as the fingers were buried in the bark

so deep that the nails were not even visible. The other three travellers

were found dead in their beds.

Periodical feasting may be regarded as another form of amusement by

which the Chinese seek to relieve the monotony of life. They have

never reserved one day in seven for absolute rest, though of late years

Chinese merchants connected with foreign trade have to some extent

fallen in with the observance of Sunday. Quite a number of days during

the year are set apart as public holidays, but no one is obliged to

keep them as such, unless he likes, with one important exception. The

festival of the New Year cannot be ignored by any one. For about ten

days before this date, and twenty days after it, the public offices

are closed and no business is transacted, the seal of each official is

handed over for safe keeping to the official's wife, a fact which

helps to dispose of the libel that women in China are the down-trodden

creatures they are often represented to be. All debts have to be paid

and accounts squared by midnight on the last day of the old year. A few

nights previously, offerings of an excessively sticky sweetmeat are

made to the Spirit of the Hearth, one of whose functions is that of

an accusing angel. The Spirit is then on the point of starting for his

annual visit to heaven, and lest any of the disclosures he might make

should entail unpleasant consequences, it is adjudged best that he shall

be rendered incapable of making any disclosures at all. The unwary god

finds his lips tightly glued together, and is unable to utter a single

word. Meanwhile, fire-crackers are being everywhere let off on a

colossal scale, the object being to frighten away the evil spirits which

have collected during the past twelve months, and to begin the year

afresh. The day itself is devoted to calling, in one's best clothes,

on relatives, friends and official superiors, for all of whom it is

customary to leave a present. The relatives and friends receive "wet"

gifts, such as fruit or cakes; officials also receive wet gifts, but

underneath the top layer will be found something "dry," in the shape of

silver or bank-notes. Everybody salutes everybody with the conventional

saying, "New joy, new joy; get rich, get rich!" Yet here again, as in

all things Chinese, we find a striking exception to this good-natured

rule. No one says "Get rich, get rich!" to the undertaker.

A high authority (on other matters) has recently stated that the Chinese

calendar "begins just when the Emperor chooses to say it shall. He is

like the captain of a ship, who says of the hour, 'Make it so,' and

it is so." The truth is that New Year's Day is determined by the

Astronomical Board, according to fixed rules, just as Easter is

determined; and it may fall on any day between the 21st of January and

the 20th of February, but neither before the former date nor after

the latter date, in spite even of the most threatening orders from the

Palace. This book will indeed have been written in vain if the reader

lays it down without having realized that no such wanton interference on

the part of their rulers would be tolerated by the Chinese people. But

we are wandering away from merry-making and festivity.

In their daily life the Chinese are extremely moderate eaters and mostly

tea-drinkers, even the wealthy confining themselves to few and simple

dishes of pork, fowl, or fish, with the ever-present accompaniment of

rice. The puppy-dog, on which the people are popularly believed to live,

as the French on frogs, is a stall-fed animal, and has always been, and

still is, an article of food; but the consumption of dog-flesh is really

very restricted, and many thousands of Chinamen have never tasted dog in

their lives. According to the popular classification of foods, those

who live on vegetables get strong, those who live on meat become brave,

those who live on grain acquire wisdom, and those who live on air become

divine.

At banquets the scene changes, and course after course of curiously

compounded and highly spiced dishes, cooked as only Chinese cooks know

how, are placed before the guests. The wine, too, goes merrily round;

bumpers are drunk at short intervals, and the wine-cups are held upside

down, to show that there are no heel-taps. Forfeits are exacted over the

game of "guess-fingers," for failure to cap a verse, or for any other

equally sufficient (or insufficient) reason; and the penalty is an extra

bumper for the loser.

This lively picture requires, perhaps, a little further explanation.

Chinese "wine" is an ardent spirit distilled from rice, and is modified

in various ways so as to produce certain brands, some of which are of

quite moderate strength, and really may be classed as wine. It is always

drunk hot, the heat being supplied by vessels of boiling water, in which

the pewter wine-flasks are kept standing. The wine-cups are small, and

it is possible to drink a good many of them without feeling in the least

overcome. Even so, many diners now refuse to touch wine at all, the

excuse always being that it flushes the face uncomfortably. Perhaps

they fear an undeserved imputation of drunkenness, remembering their own

cynical saying: "A bottle-nosed man may be a tee-totaller, but no one

will believe it." To judge from their histories and their poetry, the

Chinese seem once upon a time to have been a fairly tipsy nation:

now-a-days, the truth lies the other way. An official who died A.D.

639, and was the originator of epitaphs in China, wrote his own, as

follows:--

Fu I loved the green hills and white clouds . . .

Alas! he died of drink!

There are exceptions, no doubt, as to every rule in every country;

but such sights as drunken men tumbling about the streets, or lying

senseless by the roadside, are not to be seen in China. "It is not

wine," says the proverb, "which makes a man drunk; it is the man

himself."

Even at banquets, which are often very rich and costly, unnecessary

expense is by no means encouraged. Dishes of fruit, of a kind which no

one would wish to eat, and which are placed on the table for show or

ornament, are simply clever imitations in painted wood, and pass from

banquet to banquet as part of the ordinary paraphernalia of a feast; no

one is deceived. The same form of open and above-board deception appears

in many other ways. There are societies organized for visiting in

a comfortable style of pilgrimage some famous mountain of historic

interest. Names are put down, and money is collected; and then the party

starts off by boat or in sedan-chairs, as the case may be. On arriving

at the mountain, there is a grand feast, and after the picnic, for such

it is, every one goes home again. That is the real thing; now for the

imitation. Names are put down, and money is collected, as before; but

the funds are spent over a feast at home, alongside of a paper mountain.

Another of these deceptions, which deceive nobody, is one which might be

usefully adapted to life in other countries. A Chinaman meeting in the

street a friend, and having no leisure to stop and talk, or perhaps

meeting some one with whom he may be unwilling to talk, will promptly

put up his open fan to screen his face, and pass on. The suggestion

is that, wishing to pass without notice, he fails to see the person in

question, and it would be a serious breach of decorum on the part of the

latter to ignore the hint thus conveyed.

Japan, who may be said to have borrowed the civilization of China,

lock, stock and barrel--her literature, her moral code, her arts, her

sciences, her manners and customs, her ceremonial, and even her

national dress--invented the folding fan, which in the early part of the

fifteenth century formed part of the tribute sent from Korea to Peking,

and even later was looked upon by the Chinese as quite a curiosity. In

the early ages, fans were made of feathers, as still at the present day;

but the more modern fan of native origin is a light frame of bamboo,

wood or ivory, round or otherwise, over which silk is stretched,

offering a convenient medium for the inscription of poems, or for

paintings, as exchanged between friend and friend.

The same innocent form of deception, which deceives nobody, is carried

out when two officials, seated in sedan-chairs, have to pass one

another. If they are of about equal rank, etiquette demands that they

should alight from their chairs, and perform mutual salutations. To

obviate the extreme inconvenience of this rule, large wooden fans are

carried in all processions of the kind, and these are hastily thrust

between the passing officials, so that neither becomes aware of the

other's existence on the scene. The case is different when one of the

two is of higher rank. The official of inferior grade is bound to stop

and get out of his chair while his superior passes by, though even now

he has a chance of escape; he hears the gong beaten to clear the way

for the great man, whose rank he can tell from the number of consecutive

blows given; and hurriedly turns off down a side street.

An historical instance of substituting the shadow for the reality is

that of the great general Ts'ao Ts'ao, third century A.D., who for some

breach of the law sentenced himself to death, but satisfied his sense

of justice by cutting off his hair. An emperor of the sixth century,

who was a devout Buddhist, and therefore unable to countenance any

destruction of life, had all the sacrificial animals made of dough.

The opium question, which will claim a few words later on, has been

exhaustively threshed out; and in view of the contradictory statements

for and against the habit of opium smoking, it is recognized that any

conclusion, satisfactory to both parties, is a very remote possibility.

The Chinese themselves, who are chiefly interested in the argument, have

lately come to a very definite conclusion, which is that opium has

to go; and it seems that in spite of almost invincible obstacles, the

sincerity and patriotism which are being infused into the movement will

certainly, sooner or later, achieve the desired end. It is perhaps worth

noting that in the Decree of 1906, which ordered the abolition of opium

smoking, the old Empress Dowager, who was herself over sixty and a

moderate smoker, inserted a clause excusing from the operation of the

new law all persons already more than sixty years of age.

The Civilization of China · 第 8 / 12 章