Description of Wahoo--Extent--Whyteete-bay--Account of Tamaahmaah’s
navy--Town and harbour of Hanaroora--Bass’s harbour--Wymumme, or
Pearl-river--State of cultivation--Breed of cattle--Account of the
white people resident on the island.
The island of Wahoo lies about seven leagues to the northwest of
Morotai, and about thirty from Owhyhee, in the same direction; it is
nearly forty miles in length from northwest to southeast, and almost
half that extent in breadth.
Although only of secondary size, it has become the most important
island in the groupe, both on account of its superior fertility, and
because it possesses the only secure harbour to be met with in the
Sandwich islands.
In consequence of this, and of the facility with which fresh provisions
can be procured, almost every vessel[22] that navigates the north
Pacific puts in here to refit. This is probably the principal reason
why the king has chosen it as his place of residence; perhaps the
vicinity to Atooi and Onehow, the only islands independent of himself,
and the conquest of which he is said to meditate, is another and no
less powerful motive.
[22] During the thirteen months the author remained on the island,
there were at least twelve ships called at Wahoo, of which two were
English, the Duke of Portland, captain Spence; and the Otter, Jobelin.
One Russian, the Neva; and the remainder Americans, viz. the Catherine,
Blanchard; O’Kean, Winship; Otter, Hill; Vancouver, Swift; Liddy,
Brown; Dromo, Woodward; and three or four more, when he was at Pearl
river, whose names he does not remember.
The south coast of the island extends from Diamond-hill on the east, to
Barber’s Point[23] on the west, a distance of about twenty-four miles.
A range of mountains run almost parallel to the shore, from which it is
separated by a fertile plain, which varies in breadth; at Hanaroora,
where it is broadest, the distance from the sea to the mountains is
about five miles.
[23] Captain Portlocke distinguishes the first of these points by the
name of Point Dick, and the latter by that of Point Banks.
_Portlocke_, p. 75.
A reef of coral runs along the whole extent of this shore, within a
quarter of a mile of the land; the greater part of it dries at low
water, and in the inside it is in many places too shallow even for
canoes, except at full tide.[24]
[24] Captain Broughton mentions a harbour which he surveyed, called
Fair Haven, which lies five or six miles E. S. E. of Whyteete; it is
formed by an opening through the reefs, with a clear channel, in a N.
N. E. direction. The wind generally blows fresh out of it, rendering
it necessary to warp in, as there is no room for working. The harbour,
though of small extent, is safe and convenient, with five fathoms sandy
bottom within the spits. A fine stream of fresh water empties itself
at the head. It was discovered in 1794 by Mr. Brown, master of the
Butterworth, the same who was afterwards murdered by the natives at
this place. _Vide_ _Broughton’s Voyage_, p. 39.
Whyteete bay, where captain Vancouver anchored, is formed by the land
falling back from the southern promontory of the island, called by the
white people Diamond-hill. It is open to the south one half of the
compass, and there being no channel, ships are obliged to anchor on the
outside of the reef.
Tamaahmaah formerly resided at this place, and great part of his
navy were hauled up on the shore round the bay. I counted more than
thirty vessels; they are kept with the utmost care, having sheds built
over them, their spars laid alongside, and their rigging and cables
preserved in stores.
They are chiefly sloops and schooners, under forty tons burden, and
have all been built by his own carpenters, principally natives, under
the direction of an Englishman of the name of Boyd.
He possesses one ship of about two hundred tons, called the Lily Bird.
This vessel was originally an American, which arrived from the coast
of California in a leaky condition. He purchased her from the captain,
by giving his largest schooner in exchange, and paying the difference
in dollars. She was repaired by his own carpenters, and laid up at
Hanaroora, along side a wharf built for the purpose. The remainder of
his fleet, ten or twelve more, were hauled up at the same place, except
one small sloop, which he kept as a packet between Wahoo and Owhyhee.
She was navigated by native seamen, under the command of an Englishman,
of the name of Clerk, who had formerly been mate of the Lily Bird.
Three miles to the west of Whyteete is the town of Hanaroora, now
the capital of the island, and residence of the king. The harbour is
formed by the reef, which shelters it from the sea, and ships can ride
within in safety in any weather, upon a fine sandy bottom. There is
a good channel through the reef, with three or four fathoms water;
but if there is a swell it is not easily discovered, as the sea often
breaks completely across. Pilots, however, are always to be had; John
Hairbottle, captain of the Lily Bird, generally acted as such. The best
anchorage is in five fathoms water, about two cables length from the
shore, directly in front of the village. Ships sometimes anchor on the
outside of the reef, but they run the risk of having their cables cut
by the coral.
The entrance to this harbour may probably, at no very distant period,
be filled up by the growth of the coral, which must be rapid indeed, if
Hairbottle, the pilot, was correct, when he informed me that he knew a
difference of three feet during the time he had been at Hanaroora.[25]
[25] Hairbottle had been fifteen years on the island, he was mate of
the Jackall, which arrived about the end of 1794. _Vide_ _Broughton._
A small river runs by the back of the village, and joins the sea at the
west side of the harbour; owing to the flatness of the country, the
water is brackish, and there is none fresh to be had within several
miles of the place. Ships, however, can be supplied at a moderate rate
by the natives, who bring it from the spring in calabashes.
Six miles to the westward is Bass’s harbour, also formed by an entrance
through the reef; within it is well sheltered, with good anchorage in
five or six fathoms; but there being no village in the vicinity, it is
little frequented.[26]
[26] This inlet is evidently the same which Captain Vancouver surveyed,
and which, he says, is named Oropoa; finding that, in consequence
of the bar, it was only navigable for small craft, the survey was
not continued. He merely says, that within “it seemed to spread out,
and to terminate in two bays about a mile farther to the northward.”
He mentions another opening to the eastward, called by the natives
Honoonoona, which must be either Bass’s harbour or Hanaroora. From the
similarity of the name, it is more probably the latter place; but he
passed it without examination, being informed that it was shallower
than the other inlet.
Wymumme, or Pearl river, lies about seven miles farther to the
westward. This inlet extends ten or twelve miles up the country.
The entrance is not more than a quarter of a mile wide, and is only
navigable for small craft; the depth of water on the bar, at the
highest tides, not exceeding seven feet; farther up it is nearly two
miles across. There is an isle in it, belonging to Manina, the king’s
interpreter, in which he keeps a numerous flock of sheep and goats.
Pearls and mother-of-pearl shells are found here in considerable
quantity. Since the king has learned their value, he has kept the
fishing to himself, and employs divers for the purpose.
Ten miles to the west of this is Barber’s Point, (so called from the
captain of a ship wrecked there,) the northwest extremity of the
island. It is very low, and extends a considerable way into the sea.
The tides upon this coast do not rise more than four feet at springs;
it is high water about three at full and change of the moon. The force
of the current is scarcely perceptible.
The flat land along shore is highly cultivated; taro root, yams, and
sweet potatoes, are the most common crops; but taro forms the chief
object of their husbandry, being the principal article of food amongst
every class of inhabitants.
The mode of culture is extremely laborious, as it is necessary to
have the whole field laid under water; it is raised in small patches,
which are seldom above a hundred yards square; these are surrounded
by embankments, generally about six feet high, the sides of which
are planted with sugar-canes, with a walk at top; the fields are
intersected by drains or acqueducts, constructed with great labour and
ingenuity, for the purpose of supplying the water necessary to cover
them.
The ground is first carefully dug and levelled with a wooden spade,
called maiai, which the labourers use, squatting on their hams and
heels. After this, it is firmly beat down by treading it with their
feet till it is close enough to contain water.
The plants are propagated by planting a small cutting from the upper
part of the root with the leaves adhering. The water is then let in,
and covers the surface to the depth of twelve or eighteen inches; in
about nine months they are ready for taking up; each plant sends forth
a number of shoots, or suckers, all around. This mode of culture is
particularly laborious, and in all the operations those engaged are
almost constantly up to the middle in the mud.
Notwithstanding this, I have often seen the king working hard in a
taro patch. I know not whether this was done with a view of setting an
example of industry to his subjects. Such exertion could scarcely be
thought necessary amongst these islanders, who are certainly the most
industrious people I ever saw.
The potatoe and yam grounds are neatly inclosed by stone walls, about
eighteen inches high. In addition to these native productions, Indian
corn, and a great variety of garden stuffs have been lately introduced,
and are cultivated with success, chiefly by the white people.
When the islands were discovered, pigs and dogs were the only useful
animals they possessed; but Tamaahmaah has paid so much attention to
the preservation of the breeds left by Vancouver, and other navigators,
that in a short time the stock of horned cattle, horses, sheep, and
goats, will be abundant.
At Owhyhee I was informed that there were many hundreds of cattle
running wild, and several in a domestic state. The king had introduced
the breed into Wahoo; and at the time I was there he had a herd of nine
or ten upon the north side of the island.
Sheep and goats are already very numerous. Several individuals had
large flocks of them. The queen had one, consisting of about one
hundred and fifty; and Manina had several hundreds on the island in
Pearl river.--The king had five horses, of which he was very fond, and
used frequently to go out on horseback. I was informed there were still
more at Owhyhee.
The cattle lately introduced are pastured upon the hills, and those
parts of the country not under cultivation, the fences not being
sufficient to confine them. The hogs are kept in pens, and fed on taro
leaves, sugar canes, and garbage.
The chiefs are the proprietors of the soil, and let the land in small
farms to the lower class, who pay them a rent in kind, generally pigs,
cloth, or mats, at four terms in the year.
At one time during my stay, there were nearly sixty white people
upon Wahoo alone; but the number was constantly varying, and was
considerably diminished before my departure. Although the great
majority had been left by American vessels, not above one third of them
belonged to that nation; the rest were almost all English, and of these
six or eight were convicts, who had made their escape from New South
Wales.
Many inducements are held out to sailors to remain here. If they
conduct themselves with propriety, they rank as chiefs, and are
entitled to all the privileges of the order; at all events, they are
certain of being maintained by some of the chiefs, who are always
anxious to have white people about them.
The king has a considerable number in his service, chiefly carpenters,
joiners, masons, blacksmiths, and bricklayers; these he rewards
liberally with grants of land. Some of these people are sober and
industrious; but this is far from being their general character; on the
contrary, many of them are idle and dissolute, getting drunk whenever
an opportunity presents itself. They have introduced distillation into
the island; and the evil consequences, both to the natives and whites,
are incalculable. It is no uncommon sight to see a party of them broach
a small cask of spirits, and sit drinking for days till they see it out.
There are, however, a few exceptions to this. William Davis, a
Welshman, who resided with Isaac Davis, used to rise every morning at
five, and go to his fields, where he commonly remained till the same
hour in the evening. This singularity puzzled the natives not a little;
but they accounted for it, by supposing that he had been one of their
own countrymen, who had gone to Caheite, or England, after his death,
and had now come back to his native land.
There were no missionaries upon the island during the time I remained
in it, at which I was often much surprised.
Most of the whites have married native women, by whom they have
families; but they pay little attention either to the education or to
the religious instruction of their children. I do not recollect having
seen any who knew more than the letters of the alphabet.