Voyage to Sandwich Islands--Make Owhyhee--Touch at Mowee--Proceed
to Wahoo--Tamaahmaah and other chiefs come on board--Author resides
three months with the King--Account of his mode of life--Remove to the
house of Isaac Davis--Account of him--Death of Terremytee, the King’s
brother, and transactions that took place on that occasion--Remarkable
water-spout--Author receives a grant of land from the King, to
which he removes--Residence there--Arrival of the ship Duke of
Portland--Anecdotes of the King--Departure from the Sandwich Islands.
We proceeded on our voyage to the Sandwich Islands, and enjoyed fine
weather, with favourable winds.
No land was seen from the time we quitted the Fox Islands, till the
27th of January.
On that morning, at day break, we discovered the mountains of Owhyhee,
at the distance of ten leagues. In the afternoon, we were close in with
the land, and coasted along the north side of the island.
The breeze being light, several canoes came from the shore with fresh
provisions. We stood off and on for some time, carrying on a brisk
trade with the natives; amongst other things supplied by them, we were
surprised to find sheep and goats, the breed of which, although but
recently introduced, has increased so rapidly that they already form an
article of trade.
We passed the foot of Mouna-kaa,[18] one of the highest mountains
in the world. The sides are extremely steep, and although situated
within the tropics, the summit is perpetually covered with snow; a
narrow tract of level ground lies between the base of the mountain and
the sea, terminating in high abrupt clifts; presenting at a distance
a most barren appearance. On a nearer approach, however, we could
observe numerous patches of cultivated land, and the lower parts
of the mountain covered with wood. Farther to the west, the plains
are of greater extent, the country well wooded, and in a high state
of cultivation; with many villages and houses, presenting every
appearance of a numerous and industrious population.
[18] Captain King estimates the height of this mountain at not less
than 18,400 feet; exceeding the peak of Teneriffe, according to the
computation of the Chevalier Borda, by nearly 6,000 feet. The result of
a trigonometrical measurement by the latter, gives 1,742 toises, as the
altitude of that mountain above the level of the sea. _Vide_ _Cook’s
Third Voyage_, vol. iii. p. 103. and _Voyage fait par ordre du Roi, an
1771-2_, tom. i. p. 119.
Mouna-roa,[19] one of the mountains in the interior, is a volcano; a
few years before this time a violent eruption took place, when it sent
forth a stream of lava which ran into the sea. Isaac Davis, with whom I
afterwards resided, and who had gone in a canoe to witness it, informed
me that where the lava joined the sea, the heat was so intense that he
could not approach nearer than fifty yards. We did not see any flame or
smoke issuing from the crater.
[19] According to the admeasurement of Dr Horner, astronomer to the
Russian expedition under captain Krusenstern, in 1804, the height of
Mouna-roa is 2,254 toises. _Krusenstern’s Voyage_, vol. 1. p. 193.
We made sail in the evening, and reached Mowee the following day.
Whilst running along the southeast side of the island, several canoes
came off with refreshments. In one of them was a white man, calling
himself Joseph Wynn, an American. He had resided several years upon the
island, where he had a family, and cultivated a piece of land, which
had been granted to him by Crymakoo, a powerful chief.
I afterwards learned that his real name was Angus Maccallum, a native
of Houstoun, in Renfrewshire. Having served with his brother in the
Diana frigate, and coming from the same part of the country, a great
degree of intimacy naturally took place between us, and we had much
conversation together.
Amongst other things, I told him that I understood the Russians had
some intention of forming a settlement on the Sandwich islands. This
reached the captain’s ears; and he gave me a severe reprimand, for
having, as he expressed it, betrayed their secrets. He desired me
to say no more on the subject in future, otherwise I should not be
permitted to quit the ship.
I know not what obstacle prevented this plan from being carried into
effect; but although the Neva remained several months in the country, I
never heard any more of the settlement.
We came to anchor in the harbour of Lahina. The captain went ashore
and returned with a supply of fresh provisions. I wished much to have
accompanied him, but the surf rendered the landing too difficult for
one in my helpless condition.
Tamaahmaah, king of Owhyhee, Mowee, Wahoo, and the adjoining islands,
resided some years at this place. His house, which we could distinctly
see from the ship, was built of brick, after the European manner. Of
late, he has fixed his residence at Wahoo; upon learning of which, the
captain determined to proceed thither.
The island of Mowee is of great height. At a distance it appears like
two islands; a low flat piece of land running completely across, and
dividing it into two peninsulas. Maccallum informed me that it was very
fertile; that provisions were abundant, and much cheaper than at either
Owhyhee or Wahoo.
We weighed on the morning of the 29th, and passing between the islands
of Morokai and Ranai, reached the harbour of Hanaroora, on the south
side of Wahoo, the same evening.
A number of natives came off, as usual, the moment the ship hove in
sight. King Tamaahmaah was in a large double canoe; on his coming along
side, he sent his interpreter on board to announce his arrival.
The captain immediately went to the gangway to receive his majesty, and
shook hands with him when he came upon deck.
He was, on this occasion, dressed as a European, in a blue coat and
gray pantaloons.
Immediately on his coming aboard, the king entered into earnest
conversation with the captain. Amongst other questions, he asked
whether the ship was English or American? being informed that she was
Russian, he answered, “Meitei, meitei,” or, very good. A handsome
scarlet cloak, edged and ornamented with ermine, was presented to him
from the governor of the Aleutian islands. After trying it on, he gave
it to his attendants to be taken on shore. I never saw him use it
afterwards. In other canoes came Tamena, one of his queens, Crymakoo,
his brother-in-law, and other chiefs of inferior rank.
My appearance attracted the notice, and excited the compassion of the
queen; and finding it was my intention to remain upon the islands,
she invited me to take up my residence in her house. I gladly availed
myself of this offer, at which she expressed much pleasure; it being a
great object of ambition amongst the higher ranks to have white people
to reside with them. When the ship was brought to anchor, she sent me
ashore in one of her canoes.
Captain Hagemeister recommended me at the same time to the notice of
the king, by informing him, that I could not only make and repair the
sails of his vessels, but also weave the cloth of which they were made.
The king assured him that I should be treated with the utmost kindness.
It will be seen in the sequel how well he performed his promise.
Upon landing I was much struck with the beauty and fertility of the
country, so different from the barrenness of the Fox islands. The
village of Hanaroora, which consisted of several hundred houses, is
well shaded with large cocoa-nut trees. The king’s residence, built
close upon the shore, and surrounded by a pallisade upon the land side,
was distinguished by the British colours and a battery of sixteen
carriage guns, belonging to his ship, the Lily Bird, which at this time
lay unrigged in the harbour. This palace consisted merely of a range
of huts, viz. the king’s eating-house, his sleeping-house, the queen’s
house, a store, powder-magazine, and guard-house, with a few huts for
the attendants, all constructed after the fashion of the country.
At a short distance were two extensive storehouses, built of stone,
which contained the European articles belonging to the king.
I was conducted to the house occupied by the two queens. It consisted
of one large apartment, spread with mats; at one end of which
the attendants of both sexes slept, and at the other the queens
occasionally slept when the king was in the morai.
They and their attendants always eat here, and Tamena wished me to
join them; but as I had been informed by Crymakoo, that if I did so, I
should not be allowed to eat with men, I resolved to decline her offer.
The Neva remained in the harbour three months, during which time I ate
my victuals on board. At the end of that period, having completed a
cargo of provisions, consisting of salted pork and dried taro root, she
sailed for Kodiak and Kamschatka. I was then invited by the king to
take my meals in his eating-house, and at the same time he desired a
young American, of the name of William Moxely, a native of Norfolk in
Virginia, who understood the language, to eat along with me, to act as
my interpreter. The king’s mode of life was very simple; he breakfasted
at eight, dined at noon, and supped at sunset.
His principal chiefs being always about his person, there were
generally twenty or thirty persons present; after being seated upon
mats spread on the floor, at dinner a dish of poe, or taro pudding, was
set before each of them, which they ate with their fingers instead of
spoons. This fare, with salt fish and consecrated pork from the morai,
formed the whole of the repast, no other food being permitted in the
king’s house. A plate, knife and fork, with boiled potatoes, were,
however, always set down before Moxely and me, by his majesty’s orders.
He concluded his meal by drinking half a glass of rum; but the bottle
was immediately sent away, the liquor being tabooed, or interdicted
to his guests. The breakfast and supper consisted of fish and sweet
potatoes.
The respect paid to the king’s person, to his house, and even to his
food, formed a remarkable contrast to the simplicity of his mode of
living.
Whenever he passed, his subjects were obliged to uncover their heads
and shoulders. The same ceremony took place upon their entering, or
even passing his residence; and every house which he entered was ever
after honoured with the same marks of respect. Once, when employed in
the house of Isaac Davis, making a loom for the king, I observed him
passing, and being ignorant of this custom, requested him to enter and
observe my progress; but he declined doing so, informing me of the
consequence. He, therefore, seated himself at the door, till I brought
out my work for his inspection.
When his food was carrying from the cooking-house, every person within
hearing of the call Noho, or, sit down, given by the bearers, was
obliged to uncover himself, and squat down on his hams.[20]
[20] Scotice, “on his _hunkers_.” The emphatic word used by the author
in describing this particular mode of genuflexion, and which has no
English synonyme into which it can be translated, is thus defined by
Jamieson: “to sit with the hips hanging downwards, and the weight of
the body depending on the knees.”--_Scot. Dict. verb Hunkers._
“Wi’ ghastly e’e, poor Tweedle-dee,
Upon his _hunkers_ bended.”--BURNS.
This ceremony was particularly inconvenient when the water used in the
king’s house was carried past; there being none of a good quality near
Hanaroora, it was necessary to bring it from the mountains, a distance
of five miles. The calabash carriers were obliged, when any person
appeared in sight, to call out Noho. They, however, ran past as quick
as they could, not to detain his majesty’s subjects in so unpleasant
an attitude.
White people were not required to pay these honors, though scrupulously
exacted from the natives.
Tamaahmaah was most attentive in performing the duties of religion, and
constantly attended the morai on the taboo days, which took place about
four times each month. The ceremonies lasted one day and two nights;
during which time no person was permitted to pass the bounds of the
morai.
When the king was absent on these occasions, I did not experience the
same attention as at other times; the attendants became very remiss
in providing my dinner, and I was sometimes obliged to go without it
altogether.
I accompanied the king once to the morai; but not relishing the
confinement, and being unwilling to make complaints, I removed, about
the beginning of May, to the house of Isaac Davis, a Welshman, who had
been about twenty years upon the island, and remained with him till the
king gave me a grant of land about six months afterwards.
Mr. Davis arrived at the Sandwich islands as mate of a small American
schooner. The captain, a very young man, having incautiously permitted
the natives to go on board, without any restriction, a chief, of the
name of Tamahmotoo, observing this, planned her capture. For which
purpose a number of natives, under various pretences, crowded into the
vessel, and, upon a signal being given, threw the whole crew, five in
number, into the sea. Davis, being an excellent swimmer, laid hold of
one of the canoes, from which, however, he was beat off by paddles.
He swam to another, where the natives also attempted to beat him off;
but being a stout, athletic man, he was able to keep his hold. Having
no arms, they attempted to put him to death, by holding him under the
water, and beating him with their paddles; and also endeavoured to
strangle him, by placing his neck across one of the beams of the canoe,
and trampling upon him. But by this time the rest of the crew having
been destroyed, and the schooner taken possession of, they relented,
and ceased to torment him any farther. He was carried ashore blind,
and almost lifeless, and it was eighteen months before he recovered
his sight. He told me, that, before this time, he had never believed
in the existence of a God, and had led a very sinful life; that, upon
the near prospect of death, the idea of his offences filled him with
terror; and that he tried to repeat the Lord’s Prayer, and felt himself
strengthened after doing so.
Tamaahmaah, who was at a distant part of the island, was extremely
indignant at Tamahmotoo when he heard of this outrage.
He took the vessel from him for the purpose of restoring her to her
owners, and showed the utmost kindness to Davis. Nearly at the same
time another Englishman, of the name of Young, was detained upon the
island.
These two constantly attached themselves to Tamaahmaah; and, from their
knowledge of fire-arms, proved of essential service in the expeditions
in which he conquered Mowee, Morotoi, and Wahoo.
They were rewarded, by being raised to the rank of chiefs, and received
extensive grants of land.
When Tamaahmaah removed to Wahoo, Davis accompanied him, and he left
Young as governor of Owhyhee. These two he always treated with greater
confidence than any of the native chiefs. Davis had extensive grants
of land on several of the islands. Upon Wahoo alone he had estates on
which were four or five hundred people, who cultivated the land, and
paid him a rent in kind. These were exempted from the taxes paid by
the other chiefs for their lands; but Davis frequently made the king
presents of feather cloaks, and other valuable articles.
He was married to a native woman, by whom he had no children. By a
former wife he had three, two of whom were left under the charge of Mr.
Young of Owhyhee. His house was distinguished from those of the natives
only by the addition of a shed in front to keep off the sun; within,
it was spread with mats, but had no furniture, except two benches
to sit upon. He lived very much like the natives, and had acquired
such a taste for poe, that he preferred it to any other food. We had,
however, at all times abundance of pork, goat’s flesh, and mutton, and
frequently beef sent by Young from Owhyhee; and in the mornings and
evenings we had tea. His wealth, consisting of mats, feathers, and
cloth, the produce of the island, and a large assortment of European
articles, which he had acquired by trading with the ships that touched
here; these were contained in a large storehouse, built of stone,
adjoining his dwelling.
My first employment was to overhaul the sails of the king’s vessels,
and to repair such as were out of order. After working two or three
months at this, he desired me to make some canvass.
Having informed him that a loom was necessary, he ordered Boyd, his
principal carpenter, to make one. This, however, Boyd declined,
from an illiberal notion held by many of the white people, that the
natives should be taught nothing that would render them independent of
strangers. He told the king he did not know how to make looms; upon
which I undertook to make one myself; although, by so doing, I incurred
the displeasure of many of my countrymen. Davis had a native servant
called Jack, who worked as a Tailor, and was a very handy fellow. This
man showed much anxiety to observe how I proceeded; but his master told
me by no means to allow him, as he was so quick he would soon learn to
make a loom himself. When I said I had no wish to make it a secret, he
replied, that if the natives could weave cloth, and supply themselves,
ships would have no encouragement to call at the islands. Another
instance of this narrow way of thinking occurred, when a brother of
the queen’s, whose name I do not remember, but who was usually called
by the white people, John Adams, wished me to teach him to read,
Davis would not permit me, observing, “they will soon know more than
ourselves.”
The making of the loom, from want of assistance, and want of practice,
proved a very tedious job. I succeeded tolerably well at last; and
having procured a supply of thread, spun by the women from the fibres
of the plant of which their fishing lines are made, I began my
operations.[21] After working a small piece, I took it to the king as
a specimen. He approved of it in every respect except breadth, which
was only about half a yard, saying, he wished it made wide enough for
an awning to a ship. This was beyond my power; but I told him I could
make it a yard wide, and then sow it up into any size. He accordingly
ordered me to make a loom of the necessary dimensions.--The small
piece I wove he kept, and showed it to every captain that arrived as a
specimen of the manufacture of the country. I had nearly finished the
other loom, when the ship arrived in which I quitted the island.
[21] The author was obliged to employ a boy to work the treadles, not
being able to work them himself from the loss of his feet.
During the time I resided with Davis, Terremytee, the king’s brother,
died. His body lay in state for a few days, in the morai; and was
afterwards buried, according to custom, in a secret manner.
The public mourning that took place on this occasion was of so
extraordinary a nature, that, had I not been an eye-witness, I could
not have given credit to it.
The natives cut off their hair, and went about completely naked. Many
of them, particularly the women, disfigured themselves by knocking out
their front teeth, and branding their faces with red hot stones, and
the small end of calabashes, which they held burning to their faces
till a circular mark was produced; whilst, at the same time, a general,
I believe I may say an universal, public prostitution of the women took
place; the queens and the widow of the deceased alone exempted.
When the captain of a ship that lay in the harbour remonstrated with
the king upon these disgraceful scenes, he answered that such was the
law, and he could not prevent them.
About this time an immense water-spout broke in the harbour. It was
first observed in the south, about noon. The day was fine, with a
clear atmosphere, and nearly calm. When I saw it first, it appeared
about the thickness of a ship’s mast, reaching from the sea to a
heavy dark cloud that hung immediately over it. It approached slowly,
the cloud gradually increasing in size. When it came near, we could
observe the water ascending in a spiral direction, and the sea round
its base boiling up in great agitation. At this time it seemed about
the thickness of a hogshead. The tide was fortunately out; and upon
crossing the reef, about an hour after its first appearance, the column
broke, and such a mass of water fell, that the sea in the harbour was
raised at least three feet upon the beach. No squall was experienced,
nor did any rain fall. Hundreds of dead fish were picked up upon the
reef, and along shore after it broke. I have seen several water-spouts
at sea, and one that was nearly on board the ship in which I was, but
none of them at all equal in magnitude to this.
The natives quitted their houses, and fled with the utmost
precipitation in a direction opposite to that in which it approached. I
was informed, that a few years before, one had broken on the north side
of the island, by which a number of houses were washed away and many
people drowned.
In the month of November the king was pleased to grant me about sixty
acres of land, situated upon the Wymummee, or Pearl-water, an inlet
of the sea about twelve miles to the west of Hanaroora. I immediately
removed thither; and it being Macaheite time, during which canoes are
tabooed, I was carried on men’s shoulders. We passed by foot-paths,
winding through an extensive and fertile plain, the whole of which
is in the highest state of cultivation. Every stream was carefully
embanked, to supply water for the taro beds. Where there was no water,
the land was under crops of yams and sweet potatoes. The roads and
numerous houses are shaded by cocoa-nut trees, and the sides of the
mountains covered with wood to a great height. We halted two or three
times, and were treated by the natives with the utmost hospitality.
My farm, called Wymannoo, was upon the east side of the river, four
or five miles from its mouth. Fifteen people, with their families,
resided upon it, who cultivated the ground as my servants. There were
three houses upon the property: but I found it most agreeable to live
with one of my neighbours, and get what I wanted from my own land.
This person’s name was William Stevenson, a native of Borrowstounness.
He had been a convict, and escaped from New South Wales; but was,
notwithstanding, an industrious man, and conducted himself in general
with great propriety. He had married a native, and had a family of
several children.--He was the first who introduced into the island the
mode of distilling a spirit from the tee-root, of which, however, he
became so fond, that the king was obliged to deprive him of his still.
When I knew him he had bound himself by an oath, not to taste spirits
except at the new year, at which time he indulged to the greatest
excess. He chiefly employed himself in his garden, and had a large
stock of European vegetables.
In the end of February, I heard there was a ship at Hanaroora, and
went up with a canoe-load of provisions, wishing to provide myself
with some clothes, and, if possible, a few books. She proved to be the
Duke of Portland, South-sea whaler, bound for England. When I learned
this, I felt the wish to see my native country and friends once more so
strong, that I could not resist the opportunity that now offered. In
addition to these motives, the state of my feet had of late given me
considerable uneasiness; the sores had never healed, and I was anxious
for medical assistance, in the hopes of having a cure performed. I was,
indeed, leaving a situation of ease, and comparative affluence, for one
where, labouring under the disadvantage of the loss of my feet, I knew
I must earn a scanty subsistence. I was a tolerable sail-maker; and I
knew, that if my sores healed, I could gain a comfortable livelihood
at that employment. These hopes were never realized; the state of my
limbs renders me quite unable to hold a bolt-rope, and necessity has
compelled me to betake myself to a more precarious and less agreeable
occupation.
The king was on board the ship at the time, and I asked his permission
to take my passage home. He inquired my reason for wishing to quit the
island, and whether I had any cause of complaint. I told him I had
none; that I was sensible I was much better here than I could be any
where else, but that I was desirous to see my friends once more. He
said, if his belly told him to go, he would do it; and that if mine
told me so, I was at liberty.
He then desired me to give his compliments to King George. I told him
that, though born in his dominions, I had never seen King George; and
that, even in the city where he lived, there were thousands who had
never seen him. He expressed much surprise at this, and asked if he
did not go about among his people, to learn their wants, as he did? I
answered, that he did not do it himself, but that he had men who did it
for him. Tamaahmaah shook his head at this, and said, that other people
could never do it so well as he could himself.
He sent a handsome cloak of feathers by Captain Spence as a present to
his majesty, accompanied by a letter, which I heard him dictate to the
captain. The purport of it was to remind him of Captain Vancouver’s
promise, that a man of war, armed with brass guns, and loaded with
European articles, should be sent to him; and added, that he was
sorry he was so far away that he could not help him in his wars; and
concluded, by requesting his acceptance of the cloak as a proof of his
regard.
Having procured the king’s permission to depart, I went on shore to
take leave of my friends; particularly Isaac Davis, and my patroness,
the queen, who had always treated me with the utmost kindness. On this
occasion she presented me with several valuable mats to sleep upon on
board the ship.
It will be believed that I did not leave Wahoo without the deepest
regret. I had now been thirteen months upon the island; during which
time I had experienced nothing but kindness and friendship from all
ranks--from my much honoured master, the king, down to the lowest
native. A crowd of people attended me to the boat; unaccustomed to
conceal their feelings, they expressed them with great vehemence; and I
heard the lamentations of my friends on shore long after I had reached
the ship.
We sailed next day, being the 4th of March.