Sail from Sannack in the long-boat--Touch at the Island of
Ungar--Distressing state of the settlement there--Sail from
thence--Anchor at the village of Schutkum--Departure from
it--Boat nearly embayed on the north coast of Kodiak--Arrived at
Alexandria--Transactions there--Boat fitted out to return to Sannack.
We sailed from Sannack, in the long-boat, on the morning of the 18th of
November; but had scarcely been an hour at sea, before we discovered a
leak in the counter, which forced us to put back.
Having repaired the damage, we again set sail next morning, with a
fair southerly wind. Our little vessel made better weather than could
have been expected, and so long as it continued moderate, she scudded
before the sea perfectly dry; we boomed out the foresail on the weather
side, and the wind being fair, proceeded on our voyage at a great
rate.--About noon it freshened into a smart gale, and the sea rose
considerably, frequently curling over the stern in an alarming manner.
Our open cock-pit rendered this extremely dangerous, till we adopted
an expedient of which I fortunately recollected having read in the
voyages of some Dutch navigators, who used oil to smooth the sea. Upon
trying the experiment, it proved an effectual remedy. We lashed a keg
of oil upon the taffrail, allowing a small stream to run from it, which
spread a scum over the surface in our wake, and completely prevented
the waves from topping.
The coast of Aliaski which we passed this day, is very mountainous,
and deeply indented with arms of the sea. Many small islands lie near
the shore, which are covered with brushwood. Sometimes a temporary
hut erected by the hunters is to be seen, but there were no other
symptoms of inhabitants. Extensive reefs of rocks lie a considerable
distance off the land; our pilot, who was well acquainted with the
navigation, took us within them; but strangers should be very cautious
in approaching this part of the coast.
About ten at night we were close in with an island of considerable
height, and attempted to pass to leeward, but were prevented by
breakers, which obliged us to tack and pass on the outside. A round
lofty rock lies a quarter of a mile to the southwest; the channel
within seemed also full of rocks, and we were obliged to make another
tack before we could weather it. Our situation for about two hours
after this, was very alarming; we passed many sunk rocks, and were
repeatedly obliged to tack in order to avoid them.
At day-break we found ourselves near a barren island, four or five
miles in length, lying to the south of a larger one called Ungar. We
passed through the sound between them, and, coasting along the southern
shore of Ungar, arrived about ten A. M. at a village, situated on the
eastern part of the island, after a run of 160 miles.
We found the settlement here in the most distressing situation. The
whole of the male inhabitants, except the Russian overseer and his son,
and the Indian interpreter, having gone out to catch seals, about three
weeks before this time, a severe gale of wind came on, which their
slight canoes were unable to resist, and every one of them perished.
This dreadful calamity did not prevent the survivors from receiving us
with the kindest hospitality. We were lodged in the hot bath, which was
effectually warmed by the steam of water thrown upon red-hot stones.
Ungar is nearly twenty miles in length; in the interior the country
rises into lofty mountains; near the sea it is more level, and is
covered with brushwood, but produces no vegetable food, except berries,
and a root from which the Russians make the liquor called quass. We
remained eight days at this place, during which we went out several
times to shoot deer, with which the island abounds, accompanied by the
son of the overseer and the interpreter; we had tolerable sport, and
the venison made a most acceptable addition to our store.
The natives seem, in all respects, the same as those at Sannack. The
settlement consisted of one Russian and about thirty Indian families.
The houses of the latter were built of mud, in the form of a bee-hive,
with a hole at the top instead of a door; they had no fire-places, but
warmed themselves by means of lamps made out of flat hollow stones,
with rush wicks, which when cold, they placed under their frocks. One
cooking place served for the whole village.
This island is separated from the main land, by a strait nearly ten
miles wide at high water, but so extremely shallow that it is said to
dry at low ebbs, when deer frequently pass over from the continent.
The village is situated on the north side of a small, well sheltered
harbour, the entrance to which is between two rocky heads, not above
a cable’s length asunder. Within it is a quarter of a mile broad, and
divides, a short way above the village, into two branches, one of which
extends a considerable distance to the west. There are three or four
high pointed rocks a little to the south of the entrance, but there is
deep water all round.
We sailed on the morning of the 28th, with the wind at N. W. and
steered between the main land and a small isle to the east of Ungar.
Before we reached the open sea, the wind headed us, and blew with such
violence as to force us back to the harbour we left in the morning.
Gales from the N. E. with heavy falls of snow, prevented us from
sailing for the eight following days. I employed myself in making a
squaresail out of a bolt of canvass we had for the purpose.
Having laid in a store of deer’s flesh, dried and boiled, the only
provisions the place afforded, we again sailed on the morning of
the 6th of December; the wind strong from the west, with squalls,
accompanied with snow showers. The excessive cold made us feel severely
the want of a camboose, or fire place in the boat.
We continued to coast along the main land, within half a mile of the
shore. Nothing could exceed the barren aspect of the country, which
consisted of a range of steep and rugged hills, destitute of wood, or
almost any appearance of vegetation. Many reefs lie a considerable way
off the land.
On the 7th we passed an island called St. Ivan, the weather still very
cold, with snow.
In the afternoon, the wind veered to the N. E. and blew with such
violence that we were driven out to sea; had the gale continued, our
situation would have been highly critical; for our water was nearly
expended, and we were unprovided with a compass to direct our course;
fortunately, however, it abated towards morning, when we tacked
and stood to the shore. About noon we were close in with the land,
and being anxious to kindle a fire, anchored in a bay, where the
brushwood grew down to the water’s edge. One of the Indians landed to
cut firewood, but, he was scarcely upon shore when three bears made
their appearance, and forced him to swim back to the boat. We were
reluctantly obliged to desist; and having weighed anchor, we went ten
miles further, to a village called Schutcum.
A number of sunk rocks lie about half a mile to the south of this
place, with an intricate and narrow channel, through which we were
piloted by the overseer, who came out to meet us in a bidarka.
After remaining here three days, we sailed again on the 13th, having
met with the same hospitable treatment we had uniformly experienced
from these islanders. They liberally supplied us with berries and oil,
bear’s flesh, and dried salmon. Soon after leaving Schutcum, we doubled
a bluff head, and opened up a strait[12] that separates Kodiak from the
main land; a short way beyond it passed a narrow entrance leading into
a spacious bay or inlet; the pilot told us that it stretched twenty or
thirty versts[13] into the country, and afforded an excellent shelter
for ships. We then stood over to Kodiak, which we reached in the
evening; the wind W. S. W. with fine weather; we run along shore during
the night. Next day, about two o’clock, we passed near a rock, on which
several outches, or sea-lions, were sitting; some of them swam towards
us, uttering loud yells; but as the boat was going at a great rate
through the water, we soon lost sight of them.
[12] Captain Mears, in the Snow Nootka, navigated this strait in 1786;
he named it Petrie’s Strait. In the chart affixed to Coxe’s Russian
Discoveries, and by Dr. Langsdorf, it is named the Strait of Chelekoff.
[13] A verst is about two thirds of a mile.
Soon after, whilst crossing a deep bay, the wind checked round to the
northwest, and blew so hard at times as to oblige us to take in all
our sails. We endeavored to run under the west point of the bay, where
there seemed to be good shelter; but we fell to leeward, and were under
apprehensions that we should not be able to weather the point that
formed its eastern extremity. Mr. Bertram proposed to run the boat
ashore, but the surf was so heavy, that the attempt would have been
extremely hazardous. I was of opinion that we might weather the point
by carrying sail, and he allowed me to take the helm. Having set our
close-reefed mainsail and storm-jib, the whole crew, except myself,
went below, and lay as much as possible to the weather side, by which
means the boat was enabled to carry sail till we cleared the head.
After this we had the wind upon our quarter, and the evening proving
fine, we made great progress.
The channel or strait, which separates Kodiak from the continent, is
about fifteen leagues in breadth, and as far as I could judge, is free
from danger, except close in shore.
We entered by moonlight the strait between Kodiak and several smaller
islands to the east, with a strong tide in our favor, and were clear of
it before daylight.
Being in want of water, we landed early in the morning, and having
kindled a fire, had a warm breakfast before embarking.--The country
here was well wooded with pines, but we saw no inhabitants. We made
sail about eleven, and entered the harbour of Alexandria before dark.
We hoisted a Russian jack which we had on board, upon which a Baiderai
came off and towed us in. There were two ships and a brig at anchor in
the bay.
Alexandria is the principal Russian settlement in the Fox islands, and
the residence of the governor, upon whom we waited immediately upon
our landing, with our letters from Mr. Bander.
He gave each of us a tumbler of brandy, and sent us to the cazerne, or
barracks, where the Russian convicts lodged.
The brig which lay in the harbour was ordered to be fitted out for
Sannack, for the purpose of taking in that part of the cargo of the
Eclipse which had been saved from the wreck. As it would take a
considerable time before she could be got ready, the governor ordered
us to return in the boat with the carpenters and tools required for our
vessel, that no time might be lost.
We remained here three weeks, and during that time we were employed in
preparations for our return. The boards we had nailed on the boat’s
bottom were stripped off, and she was thoroughly repaired by the
Russian carpenters. A camboose for our fire was made, by sawing a cask
in two, and filling it with gravel, and secured by lashing it to the
mast. We also provided ourselves with a compass, the want of which we
had experienced in our voyage thither, our view of the land having been
almost constantly intercepted by fogs and snow showers.
Mr. Baranoff, the governor, gave us a chart of the Fox islands and
adjoining continent; and furnished us with letters, in case we should
find it necessary to touch at any of the Russian settlements; he also
sent three carpenters to assist in the construction of our vessel.
By the 8th of January 1808, every thing was completed, and we had laid
in a good stock of provisions, consisting of salted pork and bear’s
flesh, two skin bags of rusk, two casks of water, and a keg of rum,
with preserved berries, and blubber for the Indians.