Arrival of a party of Natives, and of the Russian Commandant of
Oonalaska, who determines to send to Kodiak for assistance--Long-boat
prepared for the voyage--Some account of Sannack or Halibut Island.
Our necessary occupations, and the unpromising appearance of the
country, had hitherto prevented us from leaving the neighbourhood of
our hut; but we had seen nothing that led us to imagine that the island
was inhabited. We were, however, visited on the 28th, by a party of
natives, who had traced the fragments of wreck along shore.
About mid-day we saw them approach in three small skin canoes, with
one Indian in each. One of them, who had a gold medal about his neck,
came forward, and addressed us in the Russian language. The captain,
who had made a former voyage to these settlements, and understood a few
words of the language, contrived to make our situation known to him.
He immediately despatched one of his companions to a village on the
northern part of the island for assistance, and the other to Oonalaska
to give information to the commandant of the Russian settlements on
that island.
The chief himself remained, and most willingly gave us a share of his
provisions, which consisted of a bladder of train oil, and a basket
of berries, about the size of bilberries, preserved in oil. These,
to people in any other situation, would scarcely have been deemed an
acquisition. Even we, who had lived so long on raw muscles, found some
difficulty in reconciling ourselves to train oil; but we thought the
berries, which had been cured with seal oil, no small luxury. This
friendly Indian, who had hooks and lines, went out in his canoe, and in
a short time returned with a few small fish. He then kindled a fire in
the following manner: he laid a piece of soft wood upon the ground, and
took another within his teeth; between these he put an upright piece of
a harder quality, which he twirled rapidly around with a thong of hide,
as we would a drill; the friction soon kindled the soft wood, and by
placing it in dried grass, and blowing it, it burst into a flame.
We lost no time in broiling the fish, and enjoyed the first
comfortable meal we had since the shipwreck.
Next day about forty Indians, men and women, came and encamped beside
us; they made huts for themselves, by setting up planks, leaning
against each other at the top, and throwing earth upon them, over which
they put a covering of grass.
They brought a supply of provisions, consisting of berries, oil,
blubber, and dried salmon, and gave us a share of all they had with the
utmost liberality.
By the assistance of the Indians, who towed our boat with their canoes,
we made two more trips to the wreck, and were successful in saving a
considerable quantity of the cargo, as well as several articles of
greater use to us for our intended vessel; such as bolts of canvass,
cordage, and other naval stores, being part of the rigging of the ship
that was stranded in the harbor of St. Peter and St. Paul. In saving
these articles, the grappling-irons proved of the greatest service; for
though the wreck lay in about three fathoms, the water was so clear,
when the wind was southerly, that we could distinctly see what lay at
the bottom. A considerable part of the ship still held together.
In about a week after this, Mr. Bander, the Russian commandant of
Oonalaska, arrived in a large skin canoe or baidare, with twenty or
thirty Indians, who also hutted themselves beside us. The presence of
so many visiters formed a singular contrast to the solitude in which
we had hitherto lived. Our tent was now in the centre of a busy and
populous village.
Some of our new visiters erected huts, whilst others contented
themselves with sleeping under their baidare, which they placed bottom
up, and raised by supports from the ground on the lee side.
We were now in no want of provisions.--In addition to what the Indians
brought with them, they procured us a plentiful supply of fish and
fowl, particularly geese, in which the island abounded; these they shot
with their rifles, in the use of which they are very expert.
These rifles are no wider in the bore than our own; but the metal is
extremely thick, particularly at the muzzle. They load them almost
full of powder, over which they force a piece of lead, three or four
inches long, with a mallet; this comes out like an arrow. The piece is
rested upon two supports, which fold out, and are stuck in the ground.
I have seen them fire at the geese, which usually sat in rows, and kill
several at one shot.
Mr. Bander took possession of the ship’s cargo. Under his directions we
went off to her several times, in company with the Indians, and brought
away a considerable quantity of the nankeens and cloth; but were not
successful in getting provisions, for we secured nothing except a few
casks of damaged bread, and half a puncheon of rum.
Our chief attention was now turned towards our vessel, and we had a
reasonable prospect of completing her by the aid of our visiters.
From Oonalaska we procured twelve Indians who could use the axe, and
Mr. Bander promised us the assistance of Russian carpenters from
Kodiak. To obtain which, as well as to report the loss of the ship
to the governor of the Russian settlements, the long-boat was fitted
out for a voyage to Kodiak.--About the 6th of November the necessary
repairs were begun.
The seams were payed with a composition of the rosin that had been
saved from the wreck, and train oil, boiled to a consistence in the
kettles of the Indians. A kind of spar deck was formed, by laying the
boards of the hat boxes over the thwarts; and upon these we nailed a
tarpaulin: a hatch way was left at the stern, by which we got below,
and in which the man at the helm could stand. We laid a small platform
on the bottom, and covered it with skins; this formed a birth into
which we could creep, but it was too low to allow us to sit upright.
Out of the ship’s spanker I made a suit of sails. She was rigged a
sloop, and provided with a cable and grapnel. She was small enough for
a voyage of 500 miles at such a season, being only twenty-two feet
long, and measuring about six ton. She, however, proved an excellent
sea-boat.
Every thing being completed by the 17th, we laid in our stores,
consisting of dried salmon, berries, and oil, with a cask of water, and
sailed on the following morning. The crew consisted of Mr. Bartram,
second mate, myself, and seven more of the crew, one Indian, who acted
as pilot.
The island on which we had now remained two months, is called by the
natives Sannack; by Captain Cook it is named Halibut Island. It is
situated in latitude 54. 27. north, longitude 197. east, and lies 10
or 12 leagues to the south of the promontory of Aliaski, and about
60 east of Oonalaska. It is quite flat, with the exception of two
mountains, is eight or ten miles long, and about six broad. The main
land could be distinctly seen; and the remarkable volcano mentioned by
Captain Cook, bore N. N. W. from our tent. It was constantly smoking
during the day, and at night we could frequently see the flames.
The land produces nothing eatable but berries. To the south lies the
dangerous reef upon which we were wrecked; it is of great extent, for
when at the ship we observed breakers a considerable distance to the
southward.
There is a village of 12 or 15 Indian families at the northern
extremity of the island.--These people are under the government of the
Russians, for whom they provide furs for the American company. They
are a quite inoffensive race, converts to the Greek Church, and if not
very devout, are at least extremely attentive to the ceremonial part of
crossing themselves.
Their appearance and manners will be afterwards more particularly
described. As the whole of their sustenance, clothing, and, indeed,
every article they make use of, except a few berries, are the produce
of the sea, they are extremely expert in managing their canoes, and
most ingenious in their modes of catching fish and other sea animals.
They are excellent marksmen with the rifle and spear; to the latter
they fix a bladder, which prevents the wounded animal from taking it
under water, and dart it with great force and certainty by means of a
throwing stick.
Like all other savages I have seen, they are immoderately fond of
spirits and tobacco.