Of the manner in which the city of Cuzco is built, of the four royal
roads which lead from it, of the grand edifices it contained, and who
was its founder.
The city of Cuzco is built in a very rugged situation, and is surrounded
by mountains on all sides. It stands on the banks of two streams, one of
which flows through it, and there are buildings on both sides. To the
eastward there is a valley, which commences at the city itself, so that
the waters of the streams which pass by the city flow to the east.[448]
This valley is very cold, and there are no trees which yield fruit,
except a few _molles_. On the north side of the city, on the highest and
nearest mountain, there is a fortress which, for its strength and
grandeur, was and still is an excellent edifice, although now most of it
is in ruins. The massive foundations, however, with the principal blocks
of stone, are still standing.[449]
To the north and east of Cuzco are the provinces of Anti-suyu, which
contain the dense forests of the Andes, and also those of Chincha-suyu,
extending towards Quito. To the south are the provinces of the Collao
and of Cunti-suyu, of which the Collao is between the east and south
winds, and Cunti-suyu between the south and west.
One part of this city was called Hanan-Cuzco, and another Hurin-Cuzco;
where the most noble and ancient families lived. Another division was
the hill of Carmenca,[451] where there were certain small towers for
observing the movements of the sun,[452] which the people venerated. In
the central and most populous part of the city there was a large open
space, which they say was once a lake or swamp, but that the founders
filled it up with earth and stones, and made it as it now is. From this
square four royal roads led. That which they called Chincha-suyu went
towards the coast, and also to Quito and Pasto. The second road, called
Cunti-suyu, led to the provinces which are subject to this city, and to
that of Arequipa. The third royal road, called Anti-suyu, goes to the
provinces at the skirts of the Andes, and to some villages beyond the
mountains. The last road, called Colla-suyu, leads to the provinces
which extend as far as Chile.[453] Thus, as in Spain, the ancients made
a division of the whole country according to provinces; and thus the
Indians knew those districts, which extended over so vast a country, by
the names of the roads. The stream which flows through the city has its
bridges for passing from one side to the other. In no part of this
kingdom was there found a nobly adorned city, except at this Cuzco,
which was (as I have already said many times) the capital of the empire
of the Yncas, and their royal seat. In all the other parts of the
kingdom the people live in houses scattered about, and if there are some
villages, they are without plan or order, or anything worthy of praise.
But Cuzco was grand and stately, and must have been founded by a people
of great intelligence. It had fine streets, except that they were
narrow, and the houses were built of solid stones, beautifully joined.
These stones were very large and well cut. The other parts of the houses
were of wood and straw, but there are no remains of tiles, bricks, or
lime amongst them. In this city there were many grand buildings of the
Yncas in various parts, in which he who succeeded to the lordship
celebrated his festivals.[454] Here, too, was the solemn and
magnificent temple of the sun, called Ccuri-cancha, which was rich in
gold and silver.[455] Most parts of the city were inhabited by
_Mitimaes_, and laws and statutes were established for their conduct,
which were understood by all, as well regarding their superstitions and
temples, as in matters relating to government. This city was the richest
of which we have any knowledge, in all the Indies, for great store of
treasure was often brought in to increase the grandeur of the nobles;
and no gold nor silver might be taken out, on pain of death. The sons of
the chiefs in all the provinces came to reside at court, with their
retinues, for a certain time. There were a great many gilders and
workers in silver, who understood how to work the things ordered by the
Yncas. The chief priest, called Huillac-Umu, lived in the grand temple.
At present there are very good houses, with upper stories roofed with
tiles. The climate, although it is cold, is very healthy, and Cuzco is
better supplied with provisions than any other place in the kingdom. It
is also the largest city, and more Spaniards hold _encomiendas_ over
Indians here than elsewhere. The city was founded by Manco Ccapac, the
first King Ynca; and, after he had been succeeded by ten other
lords,[456] the Adelantado Don Francisco Pizarro, governor and
captain-general of these kingdoms, rebuilt and refounded it in the name
of the Emperor, Don Carlos, our lord, in the month of October of the
year 1534.