Of the ports between Panama and the land of Peru, of the distances
between them, and of their latitudes.
It is known to all the world how the Spaniards, aided by God, have
prosperously gained and made themselves masters of this new world, which
is called the Indies. These Indies include so many and such great
kingdoms and provinces, that it causes wonder even to think of them; and
their discovery and conquest have been successful, as all who live in
this age well know. I have sometimes thought that, when one people and
nation succeeds another, as time rolls on the first is forgotten; and
that the same fate may overtake us as has befallen others, which may God
forefend: but these kingdoms and provinces were discovered in the time
of the most Christian and illustrious Charles, the ever august Emperor
of the Romans, and our lord and king, who has taken and still takes so
much care for the conversion of the Indians. For this reason I believe
that Spain will ever retain these possessions, and that all who live in
them will ever acknowledge the kings of Spain as their masters.
In this chapter I desire to explain to those who may read my work the
manner of navigating by points and degrees from Panama to Peru. The time
for navigating is during the months of January, February, and March,
because in this season there are always fresh breezes from the north,
and the vessels make short passages; while during the rest of the year
the south winds prevail along the coast of Peru.[128] Thus the vessels
finish their voyages before the south winds set in. Ships can also sail
in August and September, but not with the same ease as in the season
before mentioned; for if some few vessels sail in these months, they
make very long and difficult passages. The south wind is prevalent for
a long time along this coast from Chile to near Tumbez, which is
favourable for a voyage from Peru to Tierra Firme, Nicaragua, and other
ports; but very difficult for vessels going to Peru. Sailing from
Panama, vessels first sight the islands called “of the Pearls,” which
are barely in 8°.[129] These islands consist of twenty-five or thirty,
clustering round one which is the largest of all. They were formerly
inhabited by Indian natives, but now there are none. The owners of these
islands have Negroes and Indians of Nicaragua and Cubagua, who watch the
flocks and sow the seeds, for the land is fertile. They have also
obtained a great quantity of rich pearls, whence the islands take their
name. From these islands vessels work for the point of Carachine, which
is ten leagues to the E.S.E.; and when they sight it, the land is high
and woody. It is in 8⅓°.[130] From this point the coast runs S.E.¼S. to
Puerto de Piñas for eight leagues, which is in 6¼°.[131] Here the land
is high, forest covered, and rugged. Thence the coast trends S.¼E. to
Cape Corrientes; and following the same course vessels arrive at the
island of Palms, so called from the quantities of those trees which grow
on it. It is little more than a league and a half round, it has rivers
of fresh water, and used to be inhabited. This island is twenty-five
leagues from Cape Corrientes, in 4⅓°. From this point the coast runs in
the same direction to the port of Buenaventura, which is a little more
than three leagues from the island. The entrance to the bay is in
3⅔°,[132] and close to it there is a high peaked island. The country is
covered with forests, and many great rivers, rising in the mountains,
fall into the sea, by one of which vessels approach the town and port of
Buenaventura. The pilot who may take a vessel in, should know the river
well, or he will have much trouble, as was the case with me and many
others who employed new pilots. Thence the coast runs W. ¼ S. to the
island called Gorgona, which is twenty-five leagues from this bay. This
part of the coast is low, and overrun with mangroves and other dense
bushes. Many large rivers flow into the sea, the principal one being the
river of San Juan, the banks of which are inhabited by wild people, who
build their houses on great stages raised on forked poles. These Indians
are very rich in gold, and their country, which is fertile, is traversed
by rivers washing down abundance of this metal. But it is so swampy and
full of lagoons, that it is impossible to conquer it without an
expenditure of many lives and much trouble.
The island of Gorgona is high, and it never ceases to rain and thunder
there, so that it seems as if the elements were fighting. It is two
leagues round, covered with forest, and has streams of very good water.
There are many turkeys, pheasants, cats, and great serpents, besides
night birds, on the island. It seems that it has never been inhabited.
The Marquis Don Francisco Pizarro, with thirteen Spanish Christians, his
companions, was many days on this island, and suffered much from hunger
and exposure, until at last God was well served by the discovery of the
provinces of Peru. This island of Gorgona is in 3°,[133] and thence the
coast trends W.S.W. to the island of Gallo. All this coast is low and
woody, and many rivers here fall into the sea. The island of Gallo is
small, scarcely a league round, and is in 2°[134]of the equator. Thence
the coast turns S.W. to the point of Mangroves,[135] which is a little
under eight leagues from Gallo. Thence the coast runs S.W. to the bay of
Santiago, where it forms a creek, and an anchorage called Sardinas. Here
is the mouth of the great and rapid river of Santiago, where the
government of the Marquis Don Francisco Pizarro commenced. This
roadstead is twenty-five leagues from the point of Mangroves. Here
vessels have their bows in eighty fathoms and their stems nearly
aground, and sometimes they are in ninety fathoms at one moment, and in
two at another; but these inequalities, which are caused by the fury of
the river, are not dangers, nor do they prevent vessels from going in
and out at pleasure. The coast then runs west towards the Cape of San
Francisco, which is ten leagues from the roadstead. This cape is high
land, and near it there are some brown and white ravines. It is 1° N. of
the equator.[136] Thence the coast runs S.W. to the point of Passaos,
which is on the equinoctial line.[137] Between these two points four
rivers fall into the sea, called the Quiximies,[138] which are very
large. They form a tolerable port, where vessels can take in fresh water
and firewood.