opponent, and simultaneously shooting your own left hand against the
spot where your antagonist’s head ought to be. I have often found that a
quick double blow when countering is very embarrassing, and gives an
opportunity of stepping in and planting your right hand after your left
with enormous effect.
Stopping is performed in another manner, and must often be used where
the parry is impracticable. For example, if your antagonist strikes at
the body the parry cannot be accomplished, and you must either get away,
stop, or take the blow in hopes of retaliation. In stopping you receive
the blow on your arm, and thereby break its force, while, unless your
opponent is possessed of herculean strength, the arm scarcely feels the
stroke, yielding before the assault and acting like the cotton bales
that have saved many a ship from the enemy’s cannon.
If you are fortunate enough to find a good boxer, get him to give you a
few lessons in the practical department of the art, and in all cases be
careful to keep your temper. I know that few things are more annoying
than when you have made a telling plan of attack, and are just about to
begin its execution, to be checked by a short dab on the nose, which
makes your eyes water and the lids blink, and forces you to act on the
defensive for the next few minutes, while the tears are streaming down
your cheeks, and you cannot use a handkerchief by reason of the gloves.
Remember that there are two golden rules for a boxer, namely, hit
straight and keep your temper. Fail in either of these requisites, and
you will probably come off second best; fail in both, and you will
certainly do so. Listen to an account of a battle where strength and
weight and anger were overmatched by skill and coolness:--“As the
assailant rushed in he ran a prominent feature of his face against a
fist which was travelling in another direction, and immediately after
struck the knuckles of the young man’s other fist a severe blow with the
part of his person known as the epigastrium to one branch of science,
and the bread-basket to another. This second round closed the battle.”
So we say again, keep your temper and hit straight. You see a circular
blow takes more time to deliver than a straight one, and if your
opponent swings his arm round at you, while you dart out your own fist
at him, your blow will have taken effect long before his clumsy
circumgyratory attempt has completed its journey.
Let me here offer another piece of advice. Do not buy cheap gloves. You
may get them at a saving of half-a-crown or so, but you will soon wish
that you had expended the money in obtaining a better pair. Gloves
require the best horsehair, arranged after a peculiar fashion, in order
to give them the mixed softness and elasticity which they require.
Inferior gloves soon become hard and knotty, the stuffing gets thin in
some places, especially just in those very parts where it is most
required. The consequence is, that the gloves become practically
useless, and the blows are nearly as severe as if struck with the bare
hand.
Remember that, although we strongly approve of boxing, it is not to be
understood that we want every one to be fighting. We very much approve
of fencing and single-stick, but we certainly have no wish that every
one who learns to use the foil or the single-stick in mimic combat
should want to try his rapier or his broadsword in deadly fight.
As a mere exercise it stands supreme; but it is even something beyond an
exercise. It shows that superior strength and height and weight are
powerless before superior skill, and that a small boy who knows how to
box will certainly conquer a big one who is ignorant of the art. We say
again, we do not recommend fighting; but still it is good to know how to
stand up in one’s own defence, and we heartily wish that when we went to
school some kind friend had taught us the rudiments of the art.
The brutal bully of a school never holds his own when he meets with an
antagonist who is skilful in the use of his hands, and is forced to
confess that his brute strength and cruel nature are useless in such a
contest. We once saw a school bully get his deserts in a charming
manner. He had fallen upon (of course) a much smaller boy, and was
chasing him down a passage between a double row of forms. Suddenly his
victim turned round, and delivered a right-and-left blow on the chin of
his tormentor, astonishing him in no slight degree. The bully pressed
on, thinking to annihilate his impertinent antagonist, but could not do
so on account of the narrowness of the passage. As he pressed forward
the bold little fellow retreated backwards, step by step, popping in his
blows sharp and quick, and stepping back just as those of his persecutor
were delivered. The bully never guarded a single blow or succeeded in
hitting one, and by the time that they had made their way through the
defile he was obliged to confess himself beaten, and was deposed for
ever from the despotic throne which he had so long disgraced.
[Illustration]
CANOES AND CANOEING.
Despite the assertion of even so great an authority as Mr. Macgregor,
whose name has now become a household word, canoeing is an amusement
that must necessarily involve a considerable amount of danger, and ought
to be indulged in by no one who has not, according to the Eton phrase,
passed in swimming. Whether or not it is a very comfortable means of
locomotion is purely a matter of personal feeling; but in face of the
fact that the Canoe Club now numbers upwards of a hundred members, and
that the boat-builders have had extensive orders for canoes, it is only
fair to suppose that those who venture enjoy the new mode of locomotion.
There is one circumstance that will, no doubt, obtain for canoes great
favour, especially with young people, and that is, their cheapness.
Messrs. Searle at Lambeth, Simmons at Putney, or Wheeler at Richmond,
will build a good stout travelling canoe, after the fashion of the _Rob
Roy_, for 15_l._; which price includes mast, sails, apron, paddles, and
all necessaries. Any respectable boatbuilder would no doubt do the same,
when he is once provided with the necessary instructions, which, I need
scarcely add, it is essential should be carried out to the letter, for
the slightest deviation from the recognised standard might cause the
most disagreeable results. The following points are the most important.
In having a canoe built, it is a matter of considerable moment, that in
certain portions of its framework it should be constructed for and
peculiarly adapted to the particular person who is going to use it. The
length of the foot decides the height the canoe should be from keel to
deck; the length of the legs the space required for the “well;” while
the weight, of course, decides the displacement that is to be accounted
for, and must be taken into consideration at the same time as the amount
of luggage that it is proposed to carry. Oak is the best wood that can
be used, with the top streak of mahogany and the deck of fine cedar.
These were the materials of the _Rob Roy_, and as her weight with all
her fittings was only 71 lbs., it would be unreasonable to want one
lighter; indeed, for anything like knocking about flimsy canoes are
utterly and entirely useless, and only aggravate the labour of paddling.
The length over all should be 14 feet; beam, 26 inches; depth, from top
of deck to bottom of keel, 12 inches, though towards the gunwale this is
reduced to 8½ inches. The well should be 32 inches long and 20 broad,
and protected by a combing of oak half an inch in height. If your canoe
is intended for travelling purposes, the beam should be 6 inches abaft
midships; so that when stores, provisions, sails, and so on, are stowed
away forward, it brings the craft to very nearly an even keel.
Otherwise, it should only be 1 foot abaft midships. The boards that
compose the floor, and on which you have to sit, resting your back
against the backboard, are about two feet long, and are fitted so that
the knees just touch the combing, while the heels are against the
footboard on the keel, thus obviating the discomfort that would follow
on having to keep the legs stretched out straight at full length. As I
take it for granted that no one would think of going to the expense of
having a canoe built without securing the services of some one who could
supply him with the many minor details that it would be impossible to
give here, I shall not enter more minutely into any of the less
important matters, but would add, that a comfortable backboard, after
the following pattern, goes a long way to lightening the labour of
paddling. It should be made of two strips of oak, 18 inches long, 2½
inches wide, arched by two crosspieces, one of which should be grooved,
so as to rest on the combing, and work after the fashion of a hinge, it
being fastened thereon by a stout cord. The result is that the muscles
down the back are supported and rested while the spine is left free. The
greatest possible care should be taken in selecting the apron, which is
too often left to the last moment and chosen in a hurry. Being intended
to prevent the water making its way over the deck into the well, and at
the same time to avoid being fastened in any way likely to impede the
canoeist in case of an upset, it may readily be understood that it
requires nice discrimination and handiwork. It should fit close to
him--in short, he should be measured for it as for a coat. Mr. Macgregor
has invented a new apron, the receipt for which may be easily obtained,
as well as any other particulars, at Messrs. Searle’s at Lambeth.
I should recommend the novice in canoeing to rest content with
propelling himself by the aid of his paddle for a while--in fact, until
he is thoroughly at home in his craft and the way to manœuvre her.
Spruce-fir is the best wood of which to have it made, as it combines
lightness and durability, two qualities that can be readily appreciated
after a day’s locomotion. The action, though it need not be violent,
except in currents and so on, is very fatiguing, owing to the motion the
body takes from side to side. At the same time, practice will prove to
the novice that he requires to move but very little from one side to the
other. There can of course be no harm in having a mast fitted to your
canoe, and as soon as you feel capable of the risk, set it up, hoist
your sail, and be prepared to capsize. This latter alternative is only
added by way of warning. With caution nothing of the sort need happen,
for the stiffness of canoes under sail in a strong wind and heavy
weather has been satisfactorily proved on more than one occasion.
Messrs. Silver and Co. of Bishopsgate Street, make the sails according
to a regulation pattern that has been supplied them, while the boom,
yard, and woven cord can best be obtained at Mr. Farlow’s, the
fishing-tackle maker’s, in the Strand. I have thought it advisable to
give these names, as they are recommended by Mr. Macgregor himself, who
speaks in their favour with that best of all good reasons for doing so,
namely, that he has found their wares satisfactory. In conclusion, I am
bound to add that I am under much obligation to him for the information
he has afforded me concerning this pleasant and novel form of aquatic
amusement.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
CRICKET.
“Come on, lads! come on: come on, one and all:
Now shoulder the bat, and spin up the ball.
Take the field like young Trojans; your prowess essay:
While the batsman cries, Ready, the bowler says, Play:
Then run like wild deer pursued by the hounds,
And ground your bat proudly just over the bounds.”--CUNNINGHAM.
The game of cricket is the noblest of English pastimes. It combines
athletic power, grace, quickness of eye and of hand, nimbleness of leg,
and scientific skill. It is played by high and low, rich and poor, man
and boy; and there is no game, either native or foreign, can compete
with it for manliness, fairness, and healthfulness. Every one should
learn to play it, and all should begin early. How it originated, or who
evolved its beautiful laws and regulations, it is now difficult to
discover. We have nothing like it among the sports of the Greeks and
Romans, and we can only trace it to an old English pastime in the reign
of Edward III., called “club-ball.” Strutt, in his “Pastimes of the
People of England,” gives the following engravings, representing two
specimens of club-ball: the first from a MS. in the Bodleian Library,
dated 1344,--and exhibits a female figure in the act of throwing a
ball to a man, who elevates his bat to strike it. The next specimen
of ball, taken from a drawing more ancient than the former, _i. e._ a
genealogical roll of kings of England to the time of Henry III., in the
Royal Library, presents two players only; and he who is possessed of the
bat holds the ball also, which he either threw into the air, and struck
with his bat as it descended, or cast forcibly upon the ground, and beat
it away when it rebounded. But we should be rather inclined to trace the
game of cricket to trap-ball, which was, no doubt, an improvement upon
the early games played with the bat and ball. This may be traced as far
back as the fourteenth century, and a curious specimen of the manner in
which it was then played is given in a beautiful MS. in the possession
of Francis Douce, Esq. Here are only two players; but the game then
consisted of six or eight of a side, and the size of the bat indicates
the holder to have possessed no great judgment in striking the ball.
There was another game, called “stool-ball,” from which some have
supposed cricket to have been derived; but there is no evidence in
favour of this position, and it seems rather more reasonable to look
upon it as a modification of “trap-ball” than any other game.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
THE BAT.
The regulation size of the bat, called by Felix the mighty sceptre of
delight, is 38 inches in length, of which 25 inches are taken up by the
pod, or, according to the more modern term, the blade, and 13 by the
handle.
No bats are made longer than this, although, of course, they are allowed
to be of various smaller proportions, in order to suite the height of
the player.
[Illustration]
We must strongly impress on all young players the great importance of
using a bat in proportion to their strength. If they use a very heavy
bat, they will not be able to move it quickly enough to play the ball
properly, and are apt, in consequence, to get into a sluggish style of
play, which is almost sure to stick to them all their lives. A very
light bat is equally injurious: the batsman sees an easy ball approach,
plays hard at it, when, instead of going right over the head of long-on,
it drops an easy catch into mid-wicket’s hands, in consequence of there
not being enough driving power in the bat to send it further.
[Illustration]
THE BALL.
The present style of ball, with the exception of some very slight
modifications, seems to have been in use since cricket assumed anything
like its present form. According to the rules of the present day, it
must not be more than 9 inches in circumference, and must not weigh more
than 5¾ or less than 5¼ ounces. Match balls are always treble-seamed,
and are sold at the average price of 7_s._ 6_d._ But for ordinary
practice, a double-seamed ball, at about 6_s._, will be found quite good
enough, and will answer just as well as the more expensive article.
THE STUMPS.
The stumps have undergone more change during the last hundred and fifty
years than any of the accessories to cricket.
At first they were two in number and only 12 inches high. A third stump,
2 feet in length, was laid across them, although, with the exception of
being knocked down by the bowler, it was similar in no respect to the
bails of the present day, as the wicket-keeper was obliged, in order to
stump a person, to place the ball in a large hole dug between the two
stumps.
[Illustration]
In the year 1780 the width between the two stumps was decreased to 6
inches. It was also at this time that a bail was introduced, for it is
almost impossible to dignify the transverse stump, 2 feet long, which
was in use till this date, by that appellation. In 1781 a third stump
was added, and the height of the wickets increased to 22 inches. The
addition of a stump was mainly owing to the fact, that Lumpy, a
celebrated bowler of that day, sent the ball almost three times running
between the two stumps. This was thought so unfair for the bowler, that
it was resolved to increase the number of stumps in order to give him a
better chance.
In 1814 we find that the wickets were increased in height to 26 inches,
and in width to 8 inches, and in 1817 another inch was added to their
length. This, with the exception of dividing the bail into two equal
parts, is the last change that has taken place.
PADS OR GUARDS.
Since the introduction of round-hand bowling, pads or guards have come
into vogue, and at the present time it is really a dangerous feat to
play without them. The first notion of a leg-guard was two thin boards
placed anglewise on the right shin. Since that time improvements have
been effected in them at various times, until they have arrived at their
present state of excellence.
[Illustration]
The leg-guard itself is now so well-known as to render any description
of it needless; but as there are two or three fastenings in use, it will
perhaps be as well to state what they are, and also which is the best.
The first consists of three sets of tape, one round the ancle and two
round the knee. These naturally take a great deal of time to fasten
properly, and if one breaks, the pad is rendered useless for some time.
The next is three pieces of elastic, with a catch which fastens almost
instantaneously; but in course of time it loses its elasticity, and the
pad dangles on one leg in a loose and awkward manner. The third, and in
our opinion the best fastening, is two sets of straps, with holes
pierced at very slight intervals. The player can then have his pad as
tight as he pleases, without the chance of the fastenings breaking or
becoming loose, as in the case of the other two. There are several other
guards, such as elbow and private-guards; but they are scarcely ever
used.
[Illustration]
BATTING GLOVES.
These are now made with the palm cut clear away, thus enabling the
batsman to hold the bat in a much firmer manner than he could were the
palm of his hand covered by the glove. As will be seen by referring to
the accompanying cut, the india-rubber is placed differently on the two
hands. This difference will be more particularly noticed on the two
thumbs. The left one, as it is always behind the handle of the bat,
requires no guard; but the back of the left hand being in front of the
bowler, is covered with a semicircle of india-rubber, while the strips
of the india-rubber on the fingers are much longer than those on the
right hand. It may be urged by those who object to the use of batting
gloves, that the ball is likely to fly off them and give a catch. This,
although true, very rarely happens, and besides, if the ball came with
enough force to fly into the air off the glove, is it not very probable
that, without a glove to shield them, the fingers would be broken by the
same collision?
[Illustration]
WICKET-KEEPING GLOVES.
These might be more appropriately termed gauntlets, for they are much
longer than the ordinary gloves, and entirely cover the wrist. Thanks to
the suggestions of the best wicket-keepers of the day, they have now
been greatly improved, and have padding only in those parts where it can
possibly be required. It is absurd to try to keep wicket well without
wearing these gauntlets; therefore let no young cricketer be fool-hardy
enough to attempt the feat. As the right and left hand gloves are
precisely the same, the artist has drawn one glove in two positions, in
order to show the front and back of it.
THE LAWS OF CRICKET.
The following are the laws which govern the game everywhere. They have
been recently revised by the Marylebone Club, usually considered the
highest authority in the game.
1. _The Ball_ must weigh not less than 5½ ounces, nor more than 5¾
ounces. It must measure not less than 9 inches, nor more than 9¼ inches,
in circumference. At the beginning of each innings either party may call
for a new ball.
[It is, however, not customary to have a new ball at the beginning
of each innings. One a match is usually considered sufficient.]
2. _The Bat_ must not exceed 4¼ inches in the widest part; it must not
be more than 38 inches in length.
3. _The Stumps_ must be 3 in number, 27 inches out of the ground; the
bails 8 inches in length; the stumps of equal and of sufficient
thickness to prevent the ball from passing through.
4. _The Bowling Crease_ must be in a line with the stumps; 6 feet 8
inches in length; the stumps in the centre; with a return crease at each
end towards the bowler, at right angles.
5. _The Popping Crease_ must be 4 feet from the wicket, and parallel to
it, unlimited in length, but not shorter than the bowling crease;
unlimited in length, so that the batsman may keep out of the way of the
ball when it is thrown in.
6. The wickets must be pitched opposite to each other by the umpires, at
the distance of 22 yards.
7. It shall not be lawful for either party during a match, without the
consent of the other, to alter the ground by rolling, watering,
covering, mowing, or beating, except at the commencement of each
innings, when the ground shall be swept and rolled, unless the side next
going in object to it. This rule is not meant to prevent the striker
from beating the ground with his bat near to the spot where he stands
during the innings, nor to prevent the bowler from filling up holes with
sawdust, &c. when the ground is wet.
8. After rain the wickets may be changed with the consent of both
parties.
9. The _Bowler_ shall deliver the ball with one foot on the ground
behind the bowling crease, and within the return crease, and shall bowl
four balls before he change wickets, which he shall be permitted to do
only once in the same innings.
[In a one day’s match six balls are usually allowed as an over.]
10. The ball must be bowled; if thrown or jerked, the umpire shall call
“no ball.”
11. He may require the striker at the wicket from which he is bowling to
stand on that side of it which he may direct.
12. If the bowler shall toss the ball over the striker’s head, or bowl
it so wide that in the opinion of the umpire it shall not be fairly
within the reach of the batsman, he shall adjudge one run to the party
receiving the innings without an appeal, which shall be put down to the
score of wide balls; such balls shall not be reckoned as one of the four
or six balls: but if the batsman shall by any means bring himself within
reach of the ball, the run shall not be scored.
13. If the bowler deliver a “no ball” or a “wide ball,” the striker
shall be allowed as many runs as he can get, and he shall not be put out
except by running out. In the event of no run being obtained by any
other means, then one run shall be added to the score of “no balls” or
“wide balls,” as the case may be. All runs obtained for “wide balls” to
be scored to “wide balls.” If the ball shall first touch any part of the
striker’s dress or person (except his hands), the umpire shall call “leg
bye.”
[If, however, the batsman runs two byes from a wide or a no ball,
they are scored as two wides only. Many young players are in the
habit of running a single bye off a wide ball, without ever thinking
that they endanger their wicket without the slightest possible
chance of advantage to themselves.]
14. At the beginning of each innings the umpire shall call “play;” from
that time to the end of each innings no trial ball shall be allowed to
any bowler.
[This rule is very seldom enforced, as a new bowler is almost
invariably allowed a trial ball, though not on the wicket.]
15. _The Striker is Out_ if either of the bails be struck off, or if a
stump be bowled out of the ground;
16. Or, if the ball, from a stroke of the bat or hand, but not the
wrist, be held before it touches the ground, although it be hugged to
the body of the catcher;
17. Or, if in striking, or at any other time while the ball shall be in
play, both his feet shall be over the popping-crease, and his wicket put
down, except his bat be grounded within it;
18. Or, if in striking at the ball, he hit down his wicket;
19. Or, if under pretence of running or otherwise, either of the
strikers prevent a ball from being caught, the striker of the ball is
out;
20. Or, if the ball be struck, and he wilfully strike it again;
[This does not prevent the batsman from hitting the ball off his
wicket when it glides in from not being blocked with sufficient
force.]
21. Or, if in running the wicket be struck down by a throw, or by the
hand or arm (with ball in hand), before his bat (in hand) or some part
of his person be grounded over the popping-crease. But if both the bails
be off, a stump must be struck out of the ground;
22. Or, if any part of the striker’s dress knock down the wicket;
23. Or, if the striker touch or take up the ball while at play, unless
at the request of the opposite party;
24. Or, if with any part of his person he stop the ball, which in the
opinion of the umpire at the bowler’s wicket shall have been pitched in
a straight line from it to the striker’s wicket, and would have hit it.
[On the 15th of April, 1863, the M. C. C. altered this rule as
follows:--“Or, if the ball hit any part of his person which in the
opinion of the umpire at the bowler’s wicket shall have been placed
in a straight line from it to the striker’s wicket.” But at their
next meeting, discovering that their former proceedings were
informal, they cancelled their new rule; so that the law remains as
before.
It is almost impossible for a round-arm bowler, unless he bowl over
the wicket, to pitch the ball in a straight line.]
25. If the players have crossed each other, he that runs for the wicket
which is put down is out.
26. A ball being caught, no runs shall be reckoned.
27. A striker being run out, that run which he and his partner were
attempting shall not be reckoned.
28. If a lost ball be called, the striker shall be allowed six runs; but
if more than six shall have been run before “lost ball” shall have been
called, then the striker shall have all which have been run.
29. After the ball shall have been finally settled in the
wicket-keeper’s or bowler’s hand, it shall be considered dead; but when
the bowler is about to deliver the ball, if the striker at his wicket go
outside the popping-crease before such actual delivery, the said bowler
may put him out, unless (with reference to the 21st law) his bat in
hand, or some part of his person, be within the popping-crease.
30. The striker shall not retire from his wicket and return to it to
complete his innings after another has been in, without the consent of
the opposite party.
31. No substitute shall in any case be allowed to stand out, or run
between wickets for another person, without the consent of the opposite
party; and in case any person shall be allowed to run for another, the
striker shall be out, if either he or his substitute be off the ground
in manner mentioned in laws 17 and 21, while the ball is in play.
32. In all cases where a substitute shall be allowed, the consent of the
opposite party shall also be obtained as to the person to act as
substitute, and the place in the field which he shall take.
33. If any fieldsman stop the ball with his bat, the ball shall be
considered dead, and the opposite party shall add five runs to their
score; if any be run, they shall have five in all.
34. The ball having been hit, the striker may guard his wicket with his
bat, or with any part of his body except his hands; that the 23rd law
may not be infringed.
35. The wicket-keeper shall not take the ball for the purpose of
stumping until it has passed the wicket; he shall not move until the
ball be out of the bowler’s hand; he shall not by any noise incommode
the striker; and if any part of his person be over or before the wicket,
although the ball hit it, the striker shall not be out.
36. The umpires are the sole judges of fair or unfair play; and all
disputes shall be determined by them, each at his own wicket; but in
case of a catch, which the umpire at the wicket bowled from cannot see
sufficiently to decide upon, he may apply to the other umpire, whose
opinion shall be conclusive.
37. The umpires in all matches shall pitch fair wickets; and the parties
shall toss up for choice of innings. The umpires shall change wickets
after each party has had one innings.
38. They shall allow two minutes for each striker to come in, and ten
minutes between each innings. When the umpire shall call “play,” the
party refusing to play shall lose the match.
39. They are not to order a striker out unless appealed to by the
adversaries;
40. But if one of the bowler’s feet be not on the ground behind the
bowling-crease, and within the return-crease, when he shall deliver the
ball, the umpire at his wicket, unasked, must call “no ball.”
41. If either the strikers run a short run, the umpire must call “one
short.”
[The run is of course not scored.]
42. No umpire shall be allowed to bet.
43. No umpire is to be changed during a match, without the consent of
both parties, except in case of violation of the 42nd law; then either
party may dismiss the transgressor.
44. After the delivery of four or six balls the umpire must call “over,”
but not until the ball shall be finally settled in the wicket-keeper’s
or bowler’s hand; the ball shall then be considered dead; nevertheless,
if an idea be entertained that either of the strikers is out, a question
may be put previously to, but not after, the delivery of the next ball.
45. The umpire must take especial care to call “no ball” instantly upon
delivery; “wide ball” as soon as it shall pass the striker.
46. The players who go in second shall follow their innings, if they
have obtained eighty runs less than their antagonists, except in all
matches limited to only one day’s play, when the number shall be limited
to sixty instead of eighty.
47. When one of the strikers shall have been put out, the use of the bat
shall not be allowed to any person until the next striker shall come in.
NOTE.--The Committee of the Marylebone Club think it desirable that,
previously to the commencement of a match, one of each side should
be declared the manager of it; and that the new laws with respect to
substitutes may be carried out in a spirit of fairness and mutual
concession, it is their wish that such substitutes be allowed in all
reasonable cases, and that the umpire should inquire if it is done
with the consent of the manager of the opposite side.
Complaints having been made that it is the practice of some players
when at the wicket to make holes in the ground for a footing, the
Committee are of opinion that the umpires should be empowered to
prevent it.
THE LAWS OF SINGLE WICKET.
1. When there shall be less than five players on a side, bounds shall be
placed 22 yards each in a line from the off and leg-stump.
2. The ball must be hit before the bounds to entitle the striker to a
run, which run cannot be obtained unless he touch the bowling-stump or
crease in a line with his bat, or some part of his person, or go beyond
them, returning to the popping-crease, as at double wicket, according to
the 21st law.
3. When the striker shall hit the ball, one of his feet must be on the
ground, and behind the popping-crease, otherwise the umpire shall call
“no hit.”
4. When there shall be less than five players on a side, neither byes
nor overthrows shall be allowed, nor shall the striker be caught out
behind the wicket, nor stumped out.
5. The fieldsman must return the ball so that it shall cross the play
between the wicket and the bowling-stump, or between the bowling-stump
and the bounds; the striker may run till the ball be so returned.
6. After the striker shall have made one run, if he starts again he must
touch the bowling-stump, and turn before the ball cross the play, to
entitle him to another.
7. The striker shall be entitled to three runs for lost ball, and the
same number for ball stopped with bat, with reference to the 28th and
33rd laws of double wicket.
8. When there shall be more than four players on a side, there shall be
no bounds. All hits, byes, and overthrows shall then be allowed.
9. The bowler is subject to the same laws as at double wicket.
10. Not more than one minute shall be allowed between each ball.
THE BATSMAN.--HINTS TO YOUNG PLAYERS.
The first point to be considered in batting is the sort of bat to be
used. Many young cricketers cramp their play by using a bat much too
heavy for them. Now, it stands to reason that one should be able to have
a complete mastery over the weapon one wields. A bat weighing about two
pounds will be found quite heavy enough for most schoolboys. It may,
however, be urged that the heaviest bats drive the farthest, and that
many of the old-fashioned players made some of their famous hits with
them; but it must also be borne in mind that those were the days of
underhand bowling, and that at the present time cutting and leg-hitting,
in consequence of the swift round-arm bowling, are infinitely more
prevalent than forward drives, and that in many cases the position of
field-on is done away with altogether. Therefore let us beg young
players to use a light bat, one that feels almost as a whip in their
hands, and one with which they can play back as quickly as is
necessitated by the speed of the bowling.
And now a few words with regard to guard. Of course, in many instances,
the distance from the wickets depends considerably upon the pace and
pitch of the bowling, but as a rule the safest guard is about four
inches from the popping-crease. This block not only gives you a better
chance of stopping shooters, but also enables you to play forward
better, since you can cover more ground than if your block were nearer
the wicket. A leg hit can also be made sooner, and consequently squarer,
and with a good long block there is less chance of hitting your wicket
in playing back, and more chance of stopping a full-pitched ball before
it touches the ground.
The left foot should be at right angle to the wickets, and the other
parallel with them. Free hitters keep their hands at the upper part of
the handle of the bat, whilst some players, who have a reputation for
steadiness, hold it with the hands three or four inches apart. The
former position enables a player to hit much sooner, and also to have a
much longer reach. The advantages of the position are readily discovered
when there is a chance of a cut or a leg-hit.
The batsman should stand quite erect, endeavouring to make the most of
his height. Before the ball is delivered, the bat should be raised, with
the full face presented to the bowler, and covering as much of the
wicket as possible.
The moment the bowler is about to deliver the ball, raise your bat
slightly from the block, keeping it almost straight to him. If you hold
it, as some players do, still on the block-hole until the ball
approaches, you are almost sure to be too late for the ball; and
although, if it be straight, you may keep it off your wicket, yet it is
a hundred chances to one that you will miss all the leg balls, or those
which come to the off-side.
Play, too, as low as possible. It is much better to hit a ball well
along the ground for two, than to send one high into the air, although
you get four or five for it. Sooner or later you will lose your wicket,
for the ball is sure at some time to be caught by long-on or long-off.
Assuming that the player has taken up his position at the wicket, we
must now fully impress upon him _the importance of not being in a hurry
to score_. In fact, nothing is so injurious as making runs in the first
over. The best maxim to be observed is, play steadily until you can
understand the bowling. It is astonishing how much confidence you gain
after you have played a dozen balls or so. Then, when you have, as it
were, taken the measure of your opponent, lunge out, as soon as you get
a chance, and show the field your favourite drive, and prepare to make a
score.
In writing the last sentence, we are reminded of the many mishaps and
even serious accidents that have occurred on the cricket-field in
consequence of the careless manner in which some players run. They rush
between the wickets, watching the course of the ball rather than the
wicket towards which they are going; occasionally they run too far and
lose time, or else do not run far enough and lose runs; or, what is even
worse, a collision takes place between the two batsmen, and one is run
out, if not seriously injured by the bat or body of his comrade. The
simplest plan, therefore, is always to run on the right side, _to keep
the bat in the right hand, and to watch the wicket towards which you are
running_.
It has often been remarked that the most difficult balls to play are
shooters, and those that are well pitched up and just take the bail off.
Indeed, some shooters are almost sure to take a wicket; the moment,
therefore, that a ball shoots, drop the bat back close to the stumps,
and chop down upon the ball. Stopping a shooter is always a sign of good
play, and often at Lord’s produces more applause than a hit which scores
two or three runs. Some players, like Parr and Carpenter, can stop
shooters so well, that although they only chop down upon them, yet the
force of the stroke often drives the ball far enough to obtain a run.
How happens it that so many players miss the cut, although they attempt
this stroke at almost every ball that rises to the off? As a rule, young
players hit too soon, and if they touch the ball, in most cases they
give either point or cover-point an easy catch; others hit in time, but
play with a horizontal bat, the face of which is presented to the
bowler. The ball then rises in many instances either to slip or
long-slip, with the usual result. In cutting, the batsman should wait
until the ball has almost passed the wicket, and then drop down upon it,
with the face of the bat almost towards the ground. This keeps the ball
down and drives it in the direction required. In cutting, the left foot
acts as a pivot, and the right foot is drawn back. The advantage of
taking a long block is here shown, as occasionally this leg knocks down
the wicket; and if the block is near the stumps, they are easily struck
by the bat itself.
In leg-hitting, on the contrary, the right acts as a pivot, and the left
is thrown forwards. The sooner the hit is made the squarer the ball
goes, and, as a rule, the greater distance also. Since then, in swift
bowling, long-on is generally done away with, a leg ball that is hit in
front of long leg is safe to obtain more runs than if hit much behind
the wicket.
A very common habit among young players is to strike at wide balls. Many
and many a time have we seen a batsman rush out to a wide off-ball, and
send it into point’s or cover’s hands, thus depriving himself of his
innings and his side of a run. Before we conclude this somewhat
desultory chapter, we must urge upon everybody the importance of wearing
both gloves and leg-guards when playing against swift bowling. The many
dangerous accidents that have happened in consequence of the legs and
hands having no protection, should induce every person to guard himself
as much as possible. One can stand up to the wicket much better, and
have far more confidence, when one knows that a blow from the ball upon
the legs is likely to produce no ill effect. The absence of pads causes
many players to run away from the ball, and if the ball turns, the
off-stump in most cases will soon be prostrate.
Be careful, too, in running, that you ground your bat on the
popping-crease. Nothing is so tantalizing to a player as to lose a run
through the carelessness of his companion, who in his excitement runs an
inch or so short of the proper distance.
The moment the ball has left the bowler at your wicket, walk a yard or
two; you may by this means steal many a run that it would be impossible
to obtain if you were at your own wicket when the ball was hit.
Never, if you can possibly avoid it, hit a ball on the wrong side. How
disgusting it is to see a big awkward player swipe a ball right round to
the off-side which he should have drawn or played to mid-wicket on!
[Illustration: THE LEG HIT.]
Do not run away from the ball. If you do, you can never get a good leg
hit; besides, you naturally expose your wicket, and if the ball turns in
(as it often will do), you will find it almost impossible to be back in
time to save your off-stump.
As a rule, play forward whenever you can; but be sure you don’t run out
of your ground to hit unless you feel perfectly confident of your
success.
Waiting for the ball is always a dangerous experiment, and will often
result in your playing back so far that you upset your own wickets when
in the act of achieving a most scientific cut.
Be careful to keep one foot steadily planted within the popping-crease;
it is sometimes impossible to help being bowled or caught, but the worst
player in the world can always prevent the wicket-keeper stumping him.
Mind, too, that the bat ought to strike the ball, and not the ball the
bat.
Be always cautious of straight balls, however tempting they may appear.
Remember that if you miss them, you are safe to lose your wicket;
therefore always treat them with the respect that they deserve.
Balls, too, that come about five inches above the bails should generally
be allowed to pass, for unless you are well skilled in the art of
hitting down, you are sure to give a catch.
And now a word or two with regard to the three leg hits--the draw, the
forward, and the backward leg hit.
When a ball seems pitched at the leg stump, hold your bat straight, as
it were, for a block; but the moment the bat meets the ball, turn the
face of it a trifle round towards you, and the ball will then slip off
between your legs and the stumps. This is called the draw.
This play, however, requires a great deal of practice, and should very
rarely be attempted by inexperienced players.
The forward leg hit is made in the following manner:--When a ball is
pitched rather wide on the near side, advance the left foot in front of
the wicket, turn half round, and hit down upon the ball as hard as you
can.
When the ball is pitched inside the near stump, step back with the right
foot, and with an upright bat play it off the wicket. The ball will fly
rapidly along the ground, and usually between leg and long-stop.
Recollect, the sooner you hit at a leg ball the squarer it goes.
The cut is the most difficult of all, and can only be accomplished when
the ball rises a little wide of the off-bail. Even then you are very
likely to play either too soon or too late at it, and it is very rare
indeed that a player makes a really good legitimate cut.
When you see the ball about to rise a foot away from off-bail, draw the
right leg backwards, and, with a horizontal bat, give the ball something
between a pat and a push, between point and short-slip.
This is very far from being a scientific definition of this delightful
stroke; but I think, from the plain manner in which I have stated it,
that it will be more likely to be understood.
[Illustration: THE CUT.]
The technical names for the various balls the batsman is likely to
receive are--the full pitch, the tice, the hop, the half volley, the
ground ball, and the shooter.
Leg balls and balls to cut we have already explained.
At first sight, a full pitch would seem one of the easiest balls to
play; but in reality it is not; and many a good batsman, who could play
any number of well-pitched balls, has lost his wicket by playing rashly
or across a toss. Again, if hit carelessly, it is almost sure to be
caught by one of the long-fields; and often, when the batsman tries to
play it down, it hits the top of his bat, and goes into long-stop’s
hands. The best plan (if you are not very tall), when you think it is
too high to take your wicket, is to leave it alone altogether; but when
you feel persuaded that if you miss the ball it will take the stumps,
either play it down, or else hit it where there is no field.
The tice is almost a full pitch. If you have a long reach, go in and
play it forward; if not, however, keep your bat down and block it.
Running in is generally a bad habit, as it is sure to engender a loose
style of play.
The long hop, if straight, should be played very carefully, and with an
upright bat. Those batsmen who have, as it is called, “got their eye
in,” can usually strike at one with impunity; but as the ball is liable
to twist every time it reaches the ground, the young player should be
very careful in striking at it.
A half volley is a ball which rises well from the pitch. Catches are,
however, often the result of hitting right at a half volley.
A ground ball is perhaps better known among our young friends as a
sneak. If played at with a high bat, the wicket is almost sure to fall.
The best plan is to keep the bat well down, and play forward at it. If
the bat is kept in a straight line with the ball, you cannot miss it,
and often by playing it forward you can send it past the bowler.
A shooter is the most difficult ball to play, and if not treated with
proper respect, is sure to take the wicket. The moment the ball shoots,
play back, dropping the bat down on it within an inch of the stumps. You
are by this means very likely to keep it off your wicket, but do not try
to hit it. Left-hand bowling generally turns in from the off; therefore
play forward at it.
FIELDING.
Although not of so interesting a character as batting and bowling, yet
fielding is in itself of too much importance to be overlooked, or even
carelessly practised, by anybody who desires to become a cricketer. Many
a match has been lost by loose fielding, and instances without number
have occurred of a man who, after being missed before he has made a run,
has sent his score up to fifty before receiving his dismissal. It is
astonishing how many runs may be saved by careful fielding. Hits which
at first seem good for four, only obtain one through good fielding, and
that even a sharp run.
Quick fielding should be practised by the tyro, before either of the
other two departments of the game. As soon as a boy gets a ball in his
hand, he tries to catch it, or to get a companion to throw it to him;
and thus before he even knows how to handle a bat, many a boy has in him
the elements of a good field. As, however, the fascination of batting
grows upon him, he cares less for the other parts of the game; and thus
it happens that although we have many gentlemen cricketers who bat just
as well as professionals, yet the latter obtain the mastery through
their superior bowling and fielding, which they are obliged to practise
as often as batting, in order to obtain the reputation of good players.
I have, however, heard it stated that no finer fielding can be seen than
that shown in the University match. This is generally admitted; but it
must be borne in mind that the University match is played by young men
whose ages vary from twenty to five-and-twenty, whereas most of the
players are over thirty, and some rapidly approaching to forty, an age
at which the bones are not so lissom as those that have just arrived at
man’s estate.
As a proof of this I may cite the Gentlemen and Players’ match at
Lord’s, a contest (if such it can be called) which is only worth seeing
on account of the excellent bowling and fielding of the professional
players. It is satisfactory to know that it is the opinion of most
judges of the game, that as long as the gentlemen persist in practising
batting only, they will scarcely have a chance against the players.
No advice, however, will produce the same good upon a young player in
the matter of fielding as watching a match in which some of the best
players take part. In this he should bear well in mind the manner in
which the ball is stopped and thrown to the wicket-keeper.
Supposing that our cricketer can stop and catch a ball pretty well, the
next point for him to study is to throw it in carefully. How many men
that should have been run out save their wickets through the bad
throwing of a field, who, either through hurry or nervousness, pitches
the ball over the wicket-keeper’s head, or sends it in so much along the
ground as to render the picking up of it sharply by the wicket-keeper a
matter of impossibility! The best plan is to throw in a catch to the top
of the bails. A long hop occasionally meets with success; but if the
ground is bumpy, and the ball is thrown in from a distance, it is very
possible that it will go over the man’s head.
One of the most prominent failings of a young eleven is the careless
manner in which they back up. Overthrows in a professional eleven are
almost a matter of impossibility, for if the ball passes one field there
is almost sure to be another behind him to stay its progress; whereas,
in some clubs, if there is one man to back up the wicket-keeper, the
ball is considered safe, and as he generally stands within a few yards
of the wicket, he usually misses the ball if it passes the amateur
Lockyer. If, however, it is expedient to throw the ball to the bowler,
and he does not wish to hurt his fingers, an overthrow is sure to
follow, for long-on or long-off scarcely ever thinks it his duty to
stand behind the bowler’s wicket when the ball is thrown in. Overthrows
in themselves are not only annoying, because they are obtained through
no merit of the batsman, but because they always produce a merciless
laugh from the spectators, and occasionally epithets of a not very
complimentary character. It is therefore the captain’s bounden duty to
make his eleven back up well, and not to consider the ball safe unless
two or three people are behind the wicket at which it is thrown.
One naturally imagines that the wicket-keeper’s hands get occasionally
damaged from the sharp throwing to which he is subjected. Whatever he
would do without his thick gauntlets, it is unpleasant to imagine. Care
should on all occasions, therefore, be taken to save his hands, and when
the batsmen are not running, there is no need to throw the ball as hard
as possible at him. The long-stop, who returns the ball to the
wicket-keeper oftener than any other field, should send it in gently
when there is no run, and the wicket-keeper ought, in throwing it to the
bowler, to toss it as quietly as he can, in order not to deaden the
fingers of that important functionary.
Whilst writing about bowler and wicket-keeper, we cannot allow the
opportunity to pass of requesting all players to obey with the utmost
fidelity any order given to them in the field. The wicket-keeper can, by
raising his hand, change the positions of the field unknown to the
batsman, who, hitting a ball to a place which he thinks is not covered,
and finding it suddenly stopped, sees that he must play more carefully
in future.
Two of the most important positions in the field are the mid-wickets and
cover-point, and no player, unless he is a safe catch, and can return
the ball sharply, should ever be placed there. It has been computed that
mid-wicket runs more out than any other field. Anybody who has seen R.
Daft in this place will be surprised at the rapidity with which he picks
up the ball and sends it in. The space that a good cover-point can
command is really astonishing. Players seeing that the ball has passed
point feel sure that it is safe for one, whereas, if cover runs in and
sends it in well to the wicket-keeper, one of the batsmen will probably
have “run out” to his name.
Long-stop should on no account be too close to the wicket. If he takes a
position where he feels sure he can stop one run, he will do much more
service than nearer the stumps. Not only will he be able to stop some
balls which might have gone over his head, but he may stay the progress
of many leg-hits and slipped balls, besides standing a better chance of
a catch.
Catching comes so naturally that we need say little about it. The chief
point to be remembered is to keep the hands well together. Occasionally
one sees--in catching--the ball slip through a man’s hands altogether.
At other times the ball lodges in the hands for an instant, and then
drops to the ground, because the arms were not drawn back with the ball,
but held out to meet it. In catching, the arms should always be drawn
back as the ball comes, as this lessens the force with which the ball
strikes the hands. A good plan, but one which, however, requires much
practice, is to pat the ball up as it comes, and then to catch it. It is
evident that when the ball has thus been sent up, it descends much more
slowly than when it comes direct from the bat.
Even, however, if, in spite of advice and practice, one of the field is
unfortunate enough to miss a catch, the captain should not allow any
unfeeling remarks to be made. The anguish of the unfortunate player is
quite deep enough without being aggravated by growls and sneers from
comrades who may perhaps do the same thing in a few minutes.
The captain should also do all he can to prevent talking in the field.
It is time to do that when a wicket falls, but very unlike a true
cricketer to endeavour to attract the field’s attention just as the
bowler is about to deliver the ball.
BOWLING.
We have read in a manual of Cricket that there are four styles of
bowling, and Felix, we believe, in his excellent work on the Bat, states
that there are five modes, all of which are in general use. For the
present purpose, however, we think it will be sufficient if we confine
our remarks to two styles,--
1. Round-arm Bowling.
2. Underhand Bowling.
The former is an innovation upon the latter, and, like all improvements,
met with a great deal of opposition at first, since it was more
difficult to play, and made the innings shorter. Now, however, the
batting seems to have obtained as much mastery over the round-arm
bowling as before it had over the underhand, and it is even probable
that in a few years a new style will be introduced, in order to decrease
the inordinate length which innings assume now-a-days.
The following hints apply to the round-arm bowling:--
The ball should be held with the fingers across the seams, as this
occasionally makes the ball twist, and renders the defence of the
batsman a matter of more difficulty. Many bowlers, however, can never
get what is technically called “a twist on,” whereas others, after an
hour’s practice, can manage to make the ball twist in any direction they
please.
It is also important to take a run of a few yards, increasing the
distance in proportion to the pace. This allows the bowler to get his
arm into swing, and increases the impetus with which the ball is
delivered.
The bowler should always stand with his body well towards the other
wicket. We have seen a man run almost round the wicket and deliver the
ball without looking at the stumps he is supposed to aim at. Long
practice had enabled him to bowl pretty well, but the absurdity of his
position was so apparent that it provoked a laugh from all who saw it.
It must not be imagined, however, that a bowler should always deliver
the same style of ball. Many a wicket (paradoxical as it may seem) falls
from a ball that is not straight. A batsman who has had a hit to leg for
four, becomes at once anxious to get another. Very often, if a bowler
pitches the ball in a different manner, the batsman endeavours to give
another specimen of his favourite hit, and equally often loses his
wicket. Practise, therefore, change of pace and pitch, as catches are
almost sure at some time to be the result.
Nyren, one of the earliest writers on Cricket, speaks of this plan in
the following manner:--
“When it is difficult to part two batsmen, and either of them has a
favourite hit, I have often succeeded in getting him out by opening the
field where his hit is placed, at the same time hinting to the bowler to
give him a different style of ball. This, with the opening of the field,
has tempted him to plant his favourite hit, and in his anxiety to do so
he has not unfrequently committed an error fatal to him.”
In writing of round-arm bowling let us recommend young bowlers to
practise bowling over the wicket in preference to what is usually termed
round or outside it. The former plan is the only mode that necessitates
straight bowling, since, from the position of the arm, the ball may be
straight all the way, whereas, in the latter, the ball must come in from
the leg side. Again, it will be recollected that in the late discussion
about leg before wicket, many of the best judges gave it as their
opinion that the batsman could not be given out l. b. w. unless the ball
was delivered over the wicket. To these advantages may be added the fact
that a much better view of the opponent’s stumps can be obtained, and
that the distance is also shorter than from the outside of the wicket.
Among the most common faults of young players may be cited a habit of
not pitching the ball far enough. This is mainly owing to a want of
power in the arms, but still a little careful practice will considerably
assist the player. Those nice specimens of bowling known as bailers,
when the bail is knocked off, can only be obtained by a ball that is
well pitched up. Shooters, also, are the result of balls that touch the
ground near the wicket. We may also add that a ball that is pitched
short is easy to play, since it can be seen well, and its coming in
contact with the ground deadens its force and checks its speed.
Another practice which is often condemned is a habit of bowling fast.
Now, it is a great mistake to imagine that fast bowling is the most
difficult to play, as may be ascertained by the fact that our fastest
bowlers by no means take the most wickets, excepting Jackson, whose
bowling, however, is not so successful now as it was at one time. Fast
bowling does not so readily allow accuracy of pitch as a slower style;
besides, a fast bowler soon gets tired, then bowls loosely, and then
gets taken off. Those tips (for they are nothing else) to the slips for
four or five, are more the result of the bowler than the batsman. Let
us, therefore, earnestly recommend young bowlers to begin bowling
slowly, and to increase their pace as they grow older and stronger. Many
a promising bowler has been irretrievably spoilt by beginning to bowl
too fast for his strength, and finding in a short time that he has no
style at all, and that the fruit of his labour is principally found in
the number of byes scored off him.
Particular care must also be taken to avoid bowling over the shoulder.
It is a pity that there is not some more stringent rule than at present
exists with regard to law 10, although in such a case the most
successful bowlers would find their occupation gone; besides, as the
no-balling of a bowler by an umpire usually causes the greatest
unpleasantness in a match, spoiling the amicable feeling which almost
invariably exists in the cricket-field, it is much better to avoid the
head and front of the offending, by practising the best means to prevent
the arm getting over the shoulder. We recollect at school a big sturdy
fellow, who, not content with bowling over his shoulder, delivered the
ball always as fast as he could. His bowling, however, (as might be
expected) was so loose that his services were never called into
requisition at a match; but at practice he occasionally handled the
ball, much to the dread of the batsman he opposed. One day he was
bowling against the present writer in his usual headstrong style, and
actually sent a ball over the wicket-keeper’s head into long-stop’s
hands. This naturally frightened us, as we thought it just possible that
the next might hit us on the chest. A narrow escape we had, for the very
next was pitched so high, that, had we not quickly dropped on the
ground, it would have hit us on the head with such force as probably to
stop cricket with us for ever.
Our remarks on underhand bowling, or slows, must necessarily be brief.
That good slows are effective, particularly against county twenty-twos,
is proved by the analysis of R. C. Tinley’s bowling, and the destructive
power of Mr. V. E. Walker’s slows is well known to most of those who
have played against him.
It is often a good plan to begin with a fast bowler at one end and slows
at the other. The change of pace and delivery is very puzzling to the
batsman, who is compelled to play the two styles on a different plan.
If, however, a slow bowler is hit about much, he should be changed at
once, as the hits from slows generally add up quicker than those from
round-arm.
If change of pitch is advantageous in the swift bowling, it is the very
soul of slows. Full pitches, leg balls, off balls, shooters, all styles
and forms, should be allowed full play. The bowler, too, must dodge
about, and make himself an extra field, going wherever he imagines the
ball will be hit. In writing about slows we cannot pass unmentioned the
great advantage derived from making a ball twist in from the leg. It is
always understood that the leg stump is the hardest to defend, and
consequently the best to attack.
A slow ball is pitched a little wide of the leg, the batsman runs away
from his guard, and, in his imagination, sees the ball hit to square leg
for four. In reality, however, he finds his off-stump knocked down by
this same leg ball at which, in his ignorance, he struck too soon, and
therefore saw it hit his stump before he could be back to stop it.
The positions of the field may be varied according to the opinion of the
bowler.
[Illustration]
THE WICKET-KEEPER.
The duties of the wicket-keeper are to stop the balls when missed by the
striker, to stump him when off his ground, and to catch the ball, and
knock the wickets down before the striker, when running, can ground his
bat over the popping-crease. Since the introduction of fast bowling this
position has become the most dangerous in the field, and a wicket-keeper
seldom gets through a match without receiving some bruises. He should
always wear pads and gloves. Some people recommend a guard for the
abdomen, but this is scarcely ever used.
The wicket-keeper should, if possible, be captain of his eleven. As he
is behind the striker, he can by a motion of his hand move any of the
field closer or further, unknown to the batsman. This naturally requires
great tact, and is often the means of saving many a run, or of getting a
wicket.
He should stand in a somewhat stooping position, his left leg well
forward and his hands close together, while his eyes should watch every
movement of the ball. He should be very cautious about taking leg balls,
as, if he gets too near, he is likely to receive a blow from the
batsman.
As soon as the ball is thrown to him from the long-stop, he ought to
advance two or three yards (provided, in the meantime, the batsmen are
not running), and send it gently into the bowler’s hands.
The moment a hit is made, he should stand on that side of the wicket
farthest from the ball, and wait quietly till it is thrown in. The ball
should be thrown in by one pitch, and not in long hops, as is often the
case among bad players. Above all, he should knock the wicket down as
seldom as possible, but content himself with striking a bail off when he
thinks the batsman is out of his ground.
LONG-STOP.
Stands behind the wicket-keeper, in order to prevent byes.
He must be careful not to be too far away from the wicket, or else
clever players are apt to steal a bye before the ball has reached him.
The moment he gets the ball, he should return it sharply into the
wicket-keeper’s hands, and scarcely ever throw it over to the bowler. He
should assist in backing up short slip, and also endeavour to save runs
on the leg side. When slows are put on in a match, the long-stop is
usually changed to a position about twelve yards behind the bowler’s
head.
POINT.
Stands in a direct line with the popping-crease, at a distance of about
twelve yards on the off-side, for fast bowling. The faster the bowling,
the sharper he should stand. He should commence at first at the distance
we have just mentioned, and approach when he sees the player about to
strike. A sharp point may often stop a hard hit to cover-point. This
position is, however, rather dangerous in fast bowling, and, at the same
time, one of the most important. For slow bowling, he should come in to
about five yards, and stand at a more acute angle than when the delivery
is very swift.
SHORT-SLIP.
Stands a few yards behind the wicket on the off-side. As this position
does not entail much running, it is usually allotted to the bowlers. The
balls come in very sharply when the bowling is swift, and the person
occupying this position has to watch the ball very attentively, or he
stands a very good chance of receiving it in his face. It is also his
duty to back up the wicket-keeper, and to take his place at the wicket
when that functionary runs after the ball.
COVER-POINT.
Stands some distance behind point, to prevent a second run. The sharper
the bowling is, the squarer he should stand. He must also be particular
in backing up, as he can prevent many an overthrow.
LONG-SLIP.
Performs the same duties, and occupies the same position, with regard to
slip as the last-mentioned field does to point. He should, when he can,
back up long-stop and save a second run.
LONG-ON.
Stands deep on the on-side. When the bowling is very swift, he can take
the place of mid-wicket on, as a ball in such a case is seldom hit fair,
either on the on or off side. He must be a good catch, a good thrower,
and very swift on his legs.
LONG-OFF.
Occupies the same position as long-on at the other side of the wicket.
LEG.
Stands about the same distance behind the wicket on the on-side as
long-on does before it. He must possess a quick eye and great agility.
Leg-hits, after touching the ground, usually turn off in quite a
different direction from what one would expect. Leg should therefore try
to get them before they pitch, or else be careful in running to meet
them.
MID-WICKET ON AND OFF.
Stand halfway between the long-fields and the striker’s wicket. As many
catches come to these parts of the field, they should be very sharp and
active, and try to prevent the ball going past them.
THIRD MAN UP.
In very swift bowling the long-on often takes this position. He stands
between point and short-slip, in a direct line with the bowling-crease,
at a distance of about twelve yards.
* * * * *
And now, having given the functions of the fieldsmen, we propose to
show, by diagrams, their positions with regard to fast and slow
bowling.
DIAGRAM I.--FAST ROUND-ARM BOWLING.
[Illustration: S. Striker; 1. The Bowler; 2. Wicket-Keeper; 3.
Long-Stop; 4. Short-Slip; 5. Point; 6. Long-Slip; 7. Mid-Wicket on; 8.
Long-off; 9. Cover-Point; 10. Third Man up; 11. Long-Leg; U. Umpire.]
DIAGRAM II.--MEDIUM PACE ROUND-ARM BOWLING.
[Illustration: S. Striker; 1. Bowler; 2. Wicket-Keeper; 3. Long-Stop; 4.
Short-Slip; 5. Point; 6. Long-Slip; 7. Long-on; 8. Long-off; 9.
Cover-Point; 10. Mid-Wicket on; 11. Leg; U. Umpire.]
DIAGRAM III.--SLOW UNDERHAND BOWLING.
[Illustration: 1. Bowler; 2. Wicket-Keeper; 3. Leg; 4. Short-Slip. 5.
Point; 6. Extra Long-on; 7. Long-on; 8. Long-off; 9. Mid-Wicket off; 10.
Mid-Wicket on; 11. Square-Leg; S. Striker. U. Umpire.]
* * * * *
As in very swift bowling the ball is often hit to the off, it will be
seen that in Diagram I. we have placed no less than six out of the
eleven on that side. Mid-wicket on and long-off should be a little
nearer the bowler, and long-slip nearer the long-stop, than represented
in the illustration.
In Diagram II. third man up is made mid-wicket on, while cover-point
comes in nearer than when the bowling was very fast.
In Diagram III., as the bowling is slow, no long-stop is required; he is
therefore sent as an additional field behind the bowler. Short-slip
stands in very close to the wickets.
CROQUET.
MATERIALS OF THE GAME.
THE MALLETS.
[Illustration]
The mallet, of which in a Croquet set there are eight, varies in length
from 32 to 39 inches. The handle is thin and round, and is fastened into
the head somewhat in the manner of an ordinary mallet used for knocking
in tent pegs. The head slightly resembles in shape a dice-box, inasmuch
as it is narrower in the centre than at the ends. The mallet is the
active agent in the game, just as the bat is at cricket; and as the
mallet is always in the hands of the striker, care should be taken that
it is well planed. Towards the top of the handle a few circular lines
may be cut with advantage, as they give a firmer hold to the hand. At
the bottom of the handle is usually painted a colour, or a number of
lines, corresponding to the marks on one of the balls. Such an
arrangement, although not absolutely necessary--since a player can use
any mallet without interfering with the game--is of advantage in
according to each player the same coloured mallet as his ball; and were
the mallets uncoloured, disputes would probably arise about one which
was a greater favourite than the others. Some people prefer to have the
colour of all the balls painted on their mallets. This is a very good
plan if one is in the habit of playing with inattentive people, who will
not recollect when it is their turn to play. As the hard surface of the
end of the mallet-head coming sharply in contact with a ball often
cracks, chips, or breaks it in two pieces, it has been suggested that a
piece of wash-leather should be let in at each end of the head, in order
to deaden the force of the stroke. We do not, however, recommend the
adoption of this plan, as it is very expensive, and the wash-leather is
not only likely to be soon torn, but in the course of the game may come
out altogether; besides, a Croquet-ball can always be replaced for a
trifling sum, and, if played with carefully, ought to last twelve months
at least.
[Illustration: CROQUET.]
[Illustration]
THE BALLS.
The balls are eight in number, and are generally painted different
colours--blue, pink, black, yellow, brown, orange, red, green. The size
varies from 3 inches to 3⅝ inches in diameter. The balls of some of the
better Croquet games are not entirely covered with paint, but adorned
simply by a band of paint, about half an inch in width, or with lines of
blue and red, varying from one to four in number, as in the
illustration. Balls coloured thus are, however, not so easily
distinguishable as those which are painted all over.
THE HOOPS.
[Illustration]
The hoops, ten in number, are made of iron. They are about 16 inches
high, and 12 inches wide; although these dimensions are not of much
importance. In some games the hoops are of bronze, or else are painted a
golden colour. Usually, however, they are of a black, iron tint. The set
with which we generally play is painted white. This plan is in many
respects advantageous, for as the shades of evening close round the
players the contrast between the grass and the hoops becomes less vivid,
and consequently in the excitement of the game a player occasionally
tumbles over a hoop, and probably hurts his legs; when, however, the
hoops are painted white, the play can be continued to a late hour
without the chance of such a casualty as the breaking of one’s shins
against the iron hoops.
THE POSTS.
The posts, two in number, should be from 24 to 36 inches high. One end
must be sharpened into a point, in order to allow it to stick well in
the ground. One is called the starting, the other the turning post. The
top half is, in the cheaper sets, divided into eight divisions, each of
which is painted according to the colours of the ball. Thus, beginning
from the top, we trace the divisions into the following order:--
1. Blue.
2. Pink.
3. Black.
4. Yellow.
5. Brown.
6. Orange.
7. Green.
8. Red.
The order of the colours acts as a guide to the players; and since those
on each side play alternately, it follows that in a game of eight, the
dark balls--blue, black, brown, and green--are matched against the light
balls--pink, yellow, orange, and red. The advantage of this arrangement
is plainly manifest, since, during the game, the players, without
referring to the peg, will know that the light colours play alternately
with the dark. We admit, however, that opinion may be divided about the
lightness of red as a colour; and we therefore hope that the
Croquet-makers will change it into white, which is not likely to be
confounded with the yellow, for the latter, in consequence of being in
more frequent use, is sure to become dark in much shorter time than the
former. Some, however, as in the illustration, have red and blue
divisions, marked from one to four, to correspond with the number of
rings painted on the balls.
[Illustration]
CLIPS.
[Illustration]
A set of Croquet-clips--little pieces of tin, coloured according to the
colours of the balls, in order to slip over the hoops, and thus show the
hoop through which the player has next to pass--has been lately
introduced. We do not, however, recommend the use of them, as they are
liable to cause much confusion, and certainly give a great deal of
trouble to those players who adopt them.
MARKING BOARD.
A gentleman has invented a marking-board, on which is placed the
position of each player after his stroke is made; but as this requires
an umpire to mark the positions of the balls, we do not think the plan
worth adoption.
[Illustration]
TUNNEL.
In some games a very narrow hoop--scarcely wide enough for the ball to
pass through--has been introduced under the name of tunnel. It certainly
adds to the complication of the game.
[Illustration]
THE CAGE
Is another novelty, formed by placing two hoops across each other, and
fastening a bell at the point of intersection, which has to be struck by
the ball passing through.
[Illustration]
A CROQUET STAND
Is one of the best of the recent inventions in Croquet, and is to be
recommended as a great improvement over the unwieldy box, which contains
usually a Croquet set, and which is generally so badly arranged that a
quarter of an hour is occupied in taking out the Croquet implements, and
about double that time in replacing them after the game is over.
HOW THE GAME IS PLAYED.
Sides are chosen in the usual manner, the captain of one side taking the
first ball and the captain of the other the second; while the remaining
balls are given to the other players in the order in which they are
chosen. Eight persons can play at this game, but any smaller number will
do equally well. If only six or four play, the same number of balls must
be used; but if two play, the game is improved by each player taking two
balls and playing them alternately as usual. If there be an odd number
of players--either three, five, or seven--the players play against each
other, or else one person takes two balls and plays for each side. It
has been suggested that to amuse a large party two games should go on at
once, through the same hoops, one side to begin at the starting-post and
the other at the turning-post. The confusion, however, caused by the
balls getting in each other’s way would quite spoil all chance of good
play.
Assuming that each player has a ball and a mallet, that the hoops are
arranged in either of the three positions given on pages 177, 178, 179,
180, we now come to the mode of playing the game. The object is to drive
the balls through all the hoops, in the direction indicated by the
dotted lines on the diagrams, and to strike the two posts. The side all
of whose members succeed in performing this feat first wins the game.
Now, although this is the chief object of the game, yet the act from
which it derives its title, to wit “Croquet,” is of much greater
importance than would at first be imagined. If a player hit with his
ball any of the others, he is allowed to place his own against the ball
he has struck, and setting his foot upon his own ball, he hits it with
the mallet, and the force of the blow drives the opponent’s ball a
considerable distance in the direction towards which the mallet is
directed. As the player is allowed to croquet either friend or foe, it
is evident that he can do a great deal of damage or service, according
to his inclination, since he is at liberty to drive the ball in any
direction he pleases. (_See_ Rules of the Croquet, page 182.) It must,
however, be borne in mind that no player can croquet or be croqued until
he has been through the first hoop.
The holder of the first ball, placing his ball a mallet’s length in any
direction from the starting-post, endeavours by striking it with the end
of his mallet to drive it through the first hoop. If he succeeds, he
continues his turn, and attempts to send the ball through the second
hoop, and then through the third; for driving the ball through a hoop or
croquing another ball imparts the privilege of an additional stroke.
When he has finished, the second goes on, and the other players follow
in the order in which the balls are marked upon the post. Till a player
has gone through the first hoop he is not allowed to have an extra turn,
if his ball hit that of another. In a short time is palpably shown the
great advantage of the croquet. Often when a player has his ball in a
good position in front of a hoop, another will hit it and drive it to
the other end of the croquet-ground, compelling the croqued ball to take
two or three turns before it can regain its former position.
Occasionally two or three balls lie close to each other, and one is
struck by a ball which was some distance off. The striker is now allowed
to place his ball by the side of the one he has struck, and then, after
croquing it, is almost sure of hitting the two others, since his last
stroke has brought him very near to them.
The player who reaches the turning-post first has great advantages for a
time, for as soon as he touches it he commences his return journey, and
meeting the other players on their road to the farthest point of their
voyage, he is able to croquet them and considerably impede their
progress. While writing about the turning-post, we cannot refrain from
calling attention to a strange rule which appears in a recently-issued
manual of Croquet. In this work it is stated that on touching the post
the striker discontinues playing, and is not allowed for the act the
same privilege that he obtains for passing through a hoop. This
regulation is, we think, so unfair that we cannot allow this work to go
to press without taking the opportunity of recording our protest against
the adoption of the rule in question. It must be evident to anybody who
knows anything about the game that it is a more difficult task to strike
the post than to pass through a hoop. Now, touching the post is a point
in the game, for it is one of the stations that everybody must pass on
the journey; and as for each other point, such as passing a hoop or
croquing, the player is allowed an additional turn, surely it stands to
reason that the same advantage should be accorded to a player who
performs the feat of striking the turning-post. Captain Mayne Reid and
all the other writers on Croquet (with one exception) agree with us in
the view we have taken on this subject, to which we have at some length
drawn attention, in the hope that the author of the obnoxious rule will
think fit to make the necessary alteration.
When a player has passed through all the hoops, he becomes what is
called in the technical language of Croquet a Rover, and is privileged
to rove about over the ground croquing his friends and foes (_see_ page
185). It is therefore obvious that a good player can prove, when thus
situated, of immense advantage to his side, and should on no account hit
the starting or winning post till all on his side have passed through
the last hoop (_see_ page 191). Good players, however, generally content
themselves with passing through all the hoops but two, as it often
happens that if a Rover is tiresome his adversaries unite in their
efforts to drive his ball against the starting-post, and thus kill him.
This, of course, they cannot do until he has passed through all the
hoops. The excitement towards the end of the game is almost
inconceivable; each stroke is watched with the keenest interest.
Gradually one by one the players hit the post, until perhaps only two
remain, and now occurs an opportunity for skilful play. If the two
opponents are good players, they afford a rare treat to the bystanders.
The object of each is first to hit the post, and, failing in that, to
keep as far off his adversary as he can. Both endeavour, at the same
time drawing nearer to the great object in view, to keep the post
between their own and the other ball. At length one plays at the post,
misses it, and sends his ball near his adversary, who first hits it,
next croquets it away, and then strikes the post, while all his side
wave their mallets aloft, and loudly shout “Victory!”
[Illustration: DIAGRAM NO. 1.--This position, which is the simplest of
those we have drawn, is the one which we recommend all young players to
adopt. The space between the hoops and between the hoops and the posts
should be about six feet, although it can be varied in proportion to the
capabilities of the different players. The course of the ball is
indicated by the dotted lines, and the arrows show the direction in
which at starting the ball should travel. Although it may appear rather
a simple matter to go through the two first hoops by one straight
stroke, yet the unfortunate player will soon find out his mistake by
experience, and that, in attempting to pass through the hoops, “Slow and
sure” is the best maxim to adopt.]
[Illustration: DIAGRAM NO. 2.--In this, the second, diagram it will be
seen that the two centre side hoops are done away with, and that one is
placed in the centre of the game instead: but although in the play we
now require one hoop less than in the former diagram, yet the player
will have to pass through the same number of hoops as before, since he
travels twice through the hoop in the centre--once on his way to the
turning-post, and once on his return. This position is necessarily not
so simple as the last one, for now all chance of going through the three
side hoops in one turn is done away with, and few players will be able
to make the passage in less than three turns.]
[Illustration: DIAGRAM NO. 3.--In this the same number of hoops is used
as in the first diagram, but the hoops numbered respectively 4 and 9,
instead of being placed parallel to the others, are now at right-angles
to them: thus, in playing from 3 to 4, one has to keep to the right of
the second ring, and then to pass through it from the outside of the
game--a much more difficult arrangement than either of the other
positions we have described. As the player’s knowledge of Croquet
increases, many other positions will suggest themselves; but those we
have printed are the simplest, and are the diagrams in general use at
the present time.]
[Illustration: DIAGRAM NO. 4.--In this diagram the cage is introduced;
otherwise it is nearly the same as Diagram No. 2.]
The reader is now requested to give his attention to the following
Rules, which we believe will be found to meet all the requisites of the
game.
RULES.
STRIKING.
1. At the commencement of the game the ball is to be placed a mallet’s
length from the starting-post in any direction, and the player
endeavours to drive it through the first hoop.
[As the distance between the first post and the first hoop depends so
much upon the size of the Croquet-ground, the first rule may be altered
to suit the convenience of the players; but if the length is less than a
mallet, the player will probably strike the post with his own mallet.]
2. In striking the ball, the player must stand on one side of the ball,
and not behind it.
3. In striking, the mallet must be about an inch from the ground, and
must not be pushed along it when the stroke is made, except when the
distance between the ball and some other object is too small to admit
the mallet lengthwise.
[Some players wish only one hand to be used in striking. Most of the
large sets, however, are too heavy to allow this rule to be generally
carried out.]
4. The ball must be struck with an end of the mallet, and not by the
side.
ORDER OF PLAYING.
5. The balls are to be played in the order in which they are marked upon
the post.
6. If any player play out of his turn, he finishes the stroke; but for
the violation of the last rule he is deprived of the next turn.
[It may perhaps be suggested that a player, seeing a good opportunity
for some effective stroke, would purposely play out of his turn. This we
doubt; for not only would the deprivation of his next turn do him a
great deal of damage, but the chances are that one of the other players
would stop him before he had commenced the stroke.]
7. If a player play with a wrong ball, he has to replace the ball and
lose his next turn.
[This penalty is not enforced against a player if the error be not
discovered before the arrival of his second turn.]
8. If a player by a stroke of his mallet drives his ball through the
next hoop in the order of his course, he is allowed to continue his
stroke.
9. A player may in one stroke drive his ball through more than one hoop.
10. If a ball, in going through a hoop, strike another ball, the player
can either continue his stroke at the next hoop, or else croquet the
ball that is struck; but he is not allowed two turns for passing through
a hoop, and then hitting a ball.
11. If a ball strike another ball, and then pass through a hoop, the
player can either croquet or continue his stroke, and has not to pass
through the same hoop again.
[From this rule the reader may infer, that if a ball go through its hoop
either by striking another ball or by hitting the sides of the hoop, it
is considered to have passed the hoop.
It has been suggested that a ball is dead directly it croquets another,
and that therefore any stroke it makes after that is of no avail; but as
this not only does away with Rule 11, but prevents any player croquing
two balls in one stroke, we cannot adopt it.]
12. If a ball, instead of playing at its hoop, play at a ball on the
other side of the hoop, and consequently have to be moved by the hand
through its own hoop in order to croquet, it is not considered to have
gone through the hoop, but must return to the proper side of the hoop in
the ordinary manner.
13. A ball is not through a hoop if the handle of the mallet when laid
across the two sides of the hoop from whence the ball came touches the
ball without moving the hoop.
14. If a player strike a ball which he cannot croquet, and by that
stroke go through a hoop, the last stroke holds good, and he has another
turn.
15. If a ball, when croqued through its hoop in a wrong direction, roll
back through the hoop, it has not to pass through the same hoop in the
same direction again.
THE CROQUET.
[When the game of Croquet first came into fashion, there was only one
mode of the croquet, which was that usually known as the tight croquet.
Since then other forms, known as the loose and slipping croquet, have
come into fashion, and have met with so much favour that it is
impossible to deny their claims to our attention. In the tight croquet
the player must keep his foot upon his own ball, and is not allowed to
move it while he makes the stroke; but in the loose croquet he need not
even put his foot on his own ball at all, and is able consequently to
drive not only his adversary’s ball, but also his own, in any direction
he pleases. The adoption of this plan, even although it lengthens and
complicates the game, affords so much pleasure to the players
themselves, that it is becoming universally adopted. Some writers,
however, insist that to rovers only should the privilege of the loose
croquet be accorded; whilst others, on the other hand, would allow the
privilege only to those who are not rovers. In fact, so much is to be
said on each side, that the better plan is to allow the players to
choose which of these courses they think fit to adopt. In some places,
in addition to the loose croquet, a practice prevails which is usually
known by the term “taking two off.” Thus if a player croquet a ball, he
is allowed to drive his own ball in any direction he pleases, without
touching the croqued ball. After this he has another stroke, so that he
is enabled to get close to any ball on the ground. This plan seems to us
so highly objectionable, and so thoroughly subversive of all good play,
that we must decline to recommend it. It should also be known that many
of our correspondents object to loose croquet altogether, on the ground
that it tends greatly to prolong the turns, and thus spoils the game, as
people, grown tired of waiting, lose all interest in it, and forget when
their turn comes to play. What expressions more common on the ground
than “Whose turn is it now?”]
16. A player is allowed the privilege of croquing whenever his ball
strikes another, except when by doing so he makes the ball that is
struck hit the winning-post, if it have passed through the hoops.
17. In the tight croquet the player must keep his foot firmly upon his
own ball, and if the stroke move it the ball must afterwards be brought
back to the position it occupied before it was struck.
[Some writers insist that if the croqueur’s ball slip, he loses his
turn. This arrangement is too absurd to be tolerated for an instant.]
18. No ball can croquet, or be croqued, until it has passed through the
first hoop.
[It has been the custom to allow a player to take up his ball, and play,
when his turn comes, from the starting-post again, if he misses the
first hoop. This plan, however, has nothing to recommend it. It would
enable a player who wished to play last to do so at ease by
intentionally missing the hoop, and is obviously so unfair that we have
no wish to adopt it.]
19. No ball (except a rover) can croquet the same ball twice, until it
(the croqueur) has passed through a hoop or touched the post since its
first croquet.
[If, however, the croqueur be a rover, he cannot croquet the same ball
twice in one turn. In either case, however, he is at liberty to strike
the same ball twice, but this act does not allow him the privilege of a
fresh stroke.]
20. A croquet need not necessarily be a distinct stroke. If the striking
ball in its passage hit either a post or a hoop, and then cannon upon a
ball, the privilege holds good; and if, also, one ball strike two or
more others, each of these is croqued in the order in which they were
struck; but the striker has only one additional stroke when he has
croqued the lot, and not one for each ball he has struck.
21. As the moving of the croquing ball in the tight croquet is of itself
illegal, it stands to reason that if this ball during the stroke slip
and touch another ball, the player has not the right to claim the
privilege of the croquet.
[In the loose croquet a player may by his croquing stroke drive his own
ball through a hoop.]
[Illustration: THE TIGHT CROQUET.]
22. A player, after striking a ball, is not necessarily compelled to
croquet it, but is allowed to play in any direction he pleases.
[It must, however, be understood that he must play from the place where
his ball is, and not, since he abnegates the privilege of it, as after a
croquet, from a position touching the ball he has struck.]
23. If a player hit a rover, and by the blow force the other ball
against the winning-post, he cannot croquet the ball, as it is plainly
dead; he however retains the privilege of another turn. As the ball is
dead, it must be moved at once.
24. If a player in the act of croquing do not move the croqued ball at
least 6 inches, he is at liberty to take the stroke over again.
[Of course the croqued ball must be placed in the position it occupied
before it was struck.]
25. If a ball go through a hoop and then croquet a ball, both strokes
count.
26. If a player croquet a ball illegally, both balls must be restored to
their former positions.
27. If a ball hit two or more balls by one stroke, and croquet one, it
is forced to croquet all it has struck, and is not allowed to croquet
one and leave the others alone.
THE POSTS.
Some writers give certain privileges for passing two hoops at a time,
and for striking the posts--such as placing the ball a mallet’s length
in any direction from its original position. This plan, however, is very
irregular, and affords too great an advantage to one player to be
adopted.
28. Striking the posts enables the player to have a fresh turn, and is
in all respects equivalent to passing a hoop.
29. A player who, having gone through all the hoops, strikes the
winning-post, is dead; and being out of the game, is not allowed to have
a fresh turn.
30. If either of the posts be struck by a ball that is driven thither by
a croquing or croqued ball, or in passing through the next hoop to it in
the right direction, the stroke holds good.
31. If a ball be moved by a player when it should not have been touched,
it must be restored to its former position, even if the stroke have sent
it against a post or through a hoop.
32. If any ball (or balls) be struck by the ball moved, as in the last
rule, it must be at once replaced in its former position.
33. If a ball, in the tight croquet, slip from under the feet and strike
the turning-post, the stroke does not count.
[By the same rule, if a player in croquing strike the winning-post, the
stroke does not count.]
34. If a ball be hit off the ground on a gravel-walk or a flower-bed, it
is to be placed at once 12 inches at right-angles from the limit of the
boundary.
THE ROVER.
35. As a rover has passed through all the hoops, he is not allowed to
croquet the same ball twice in one turn.
36. A rover has only the right to play a second time when he croquets
another ball.
37. A ball is dead as soon as it has passed through all the hoops and
struck the two posts.
38. A rover who hits another ball, and then the post, is dead, and
cannot take another turn.
[A rover who croquets another ball against the post is according to Rule
23 allowed another turn; but if a rover, in croquing a ball, lets his
ball slip against the post, he is dead according to the principles of
loose croquet.]
39. The game is finished when all the players on one side have gone
through all the hoops and struck the two posts.
40. A match is the best of three games.
41. A tournament is the best of three matches.
HINTS TO YOUNG PLAYERS.
It is almost impossible (as the reader will already have perceived) to
overestimate the great importance that “the croquet” bears upon the
game. A player who devotes all his efforts to pass through the hoops
will find himself soon left behind by those who look upon that
department of the game as merely subservient to the more fascinating
task of driving away a foe, or of helping a friend; and this fact
becomes more and more patent when the number of players is six or eight.
True, when only two play, if one gets a good start, it is a somewhat
difficult matter for the other player to stay his progress; and as this
inevitably takes away half the interest of the game, we recommend a pair
of players to use a couple of balls, since by so doing one can assist
the other, and develop the croquet to great advantage; but then, again,
it is not expedient to devote the whole of one’s energies to produce a
collision between two balls. The player’s first rule should be to pass
through a hoop; if, however, he sees an equal chance of passing through
it after he has gone out of his route to drive an adverse player away,
he should at all times make use of the croquet; for it must be
remembered that keeping an enemy back is almost equivalent to making
progress, and that the game cannot be lost as long as a foe’s ball is
behind one’s own. The art of the tight croquet consists in placing the
striking ball in juxtaposition to that ball which has been croqued, and
then, setting the left foot upon his own ball, the striker hits it
sharply with his mallet, and consequently the other ball is driven by
the power of the stroke to a distance in proportion to the force with
which the ball was struck. In the loose croquet, however, the player
need not place his foot upon the ball at all, but by adopting the
following stroke can drive the two balls forward in the same direction,
or by hitting his own ball with a slanting mallet can drive the balls
away at an angle to each other. The purpose of this feat is either to
aid a friend or to do damage to an enemy. A friend can by croquing send
a partner through the hoop he wishes to pass, or else drive an
enemy--who has obtained a good position, and who feels certain of going
through a hoop at his next turn--exactly in the opposite direction to
that in which he wishes to travel. In order, however, to make this
stroke very effective, great care must be taken with regard to the way
in which the ball is driven. Many thoughtless players think nothing of
driving a foe close to a friend, or, in the hopes of assisting their
side, send a friend in the immediate neighbourhood of a foe--thus
improving the position of the adverse side, and damaging that of their
own. The difference that a few thoughtful players make to a side is
wonderful. Whilst others hit their balls about without ever thinking
that at his next turn a foe will probably croquet them, the careful
players, anticipating the positions of the other bails, place themselves
in a position from which, when their next turn comes, they can either go
through a hoop, or croquet the ball of a more careless player. Thus, if
foe B is behind a hoop through which A has to pass, but requires two
turns for the passage, it would be very absurd if A were to place
himself close to B, in the hope of passing through next time, since B
would be sure to croquet him, and place him in even a worse position
than he occupies in the illustration. A should content himself by
playing to C, for B would not go so far out of his way to croquet him,
and then A could go through the ring the next time he plays.
[Illustration]
If A is at the side of a hoop through which he cannot possibly pass in
one turn, he should play behind the ring to the spot marked B, and not
in a line marked A C, or else he would probably go either too far or not
far enough, and be forced to accomplish in three turns what, if he had
gone to B, he could probably have done in two.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
Suppose B to be placed in front of the fourth hoop (_see_ Positions of
Hoops, Diagram No. 2), and A, whose turn it is, to be behind No.
2;--many players would just go through No. 2, and then quietly drop down
to No. 3, in the hope of passing through at the next turn. A thoughtful
player, however, would, by driving his ball sharply through hoop No. 2,
obtain a position close to B, and next, taking a second turn for going
through the hoop, would be able to croquet B, and drive him a long way
off his hoop, and then return to a good position behind No. 3.
The following position will show one of the advantages of the loose
croquet. It is the turn of the ball C to play, and he has to go through
the hoop _e_ in the direction _e_ A. In his present position it is
impossible for him to go through the hoop at one turn. If, however, he
croquets D, and then indulges in the loose croquet, he can drive his own
ball to B, and send the other to A. He can then pass through the hoop,
and can croquet D again at the spot A.
[Illustration]
We have mentioned this problem more as an example for young players than
because it is a recognised rule. Many such plans, equally advantageous
to follow, will readily present themselves to players in the course of
the game, and in no more forcible manner can they show their good play
than by disregarding the passage of a hoop in order to croquet a foe and
thus spoil his position. It can be easily understood that a player who,
by passing through all the hoops, obtains the title of “Rover,” and may
therefore rove wherever he pleases, has far more power than one whose
flight is fettered by being compelled to pass through the little iron
hoops that dot the Croquet-ground. He can either keep close to a laggard
friend, and aid him by the croquet, or he can take up a position a
little in advance of a forward foe, and delay his progress in a very
unpleasant manner. Suppose that A has just passed through the last hoop
but two, and that B, a rover, has taken up a position close to the hoop,
in such a manner that a portion of it intervenes between him and A. If,
then, the latter play near the hoop, B is sure to croquet him and drive
him away. He is therefore compelled to keep some distance off the hoop
until a friend comes to aid him, unless a change in his position allows
him to croquet B, which, if the latter is a good player, is not likely
to occur. Now, having shown how a rover can worry a foe, let us
demonstrate how he can aid a friend. A is close to the hoop through
which he has to pass, and B, a rover of his own side, is in a line with
him. If B hit A, he will probably drive him off his hoop and spoil his
turn; but if B play to C, a spot halfway between the two hoops, A can go
through his hoop, croquet B at C, drive him to D, and then go through
the next hoop, croquet B at D (for he has been through a hoop since he
last croqued him), drive him to the other side of the next hoop, and so
on. A rover playing with another ball can be of more help to him than
hindrance to a foe; and as it is more important to get the balls of
one’s own side forward than to delay those of a foe, the former plan
should, when feasible, be adopted. Thus it will be seen that a good
rover is of the greatest service to the side, and that the sooner he is
placed _hors de combat_ the better for the opposite side. The rovers on
the other side should therefore do all they can to make the rover’s ball
hit the post by croquing it against it, if possible; for although if all
on his side hit the post before those on the other side the game is won,
yet when the best player, being dead, is able to render no further
assistance, the game often goes against that side. This plan, however,
must be adopted with the greatest precaution and care, and on no account
whatever should a bad player be thus disposed of, since the mere fact of
keeping him in the game is of the highest importance, as his services
are of little avail to his own side, who cannot win as long as one of
their party remains in the game. With these few desultory hints we
conclude this article, which all beginners should study carefully, and
(we hope) with advantage.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
DRIVING.
“The rash boy Phaeton his proud chariot drove
Till he was smitten by almighty Jove:
Take heed, young driver, while you like him boast,
You are not ‘spilled’ against an ugly post.”--_Swift._