Athletic Sports and Manly Exercises:
INCLUDING
ANGLING,
ARCHERY,
BOXING,
CANOES AND CANOEING,
CRICKET,
CROQUET,
DRIVING,
FENCING,
FIVES,
FOOT-BALL,
GOLF,
GYMNASTICS,
HOCKEY,
RACKETS,
RIDING,
ROWING,
SAILING,
SKATING,
SLIDING,
SWIMMING,
TRAINING.
[Illustration: ATHLETIC SPORTS.]
[Illustration]
ANGLING.
“When I was a mere schoolboy,
Ere yet I learnt my book,
I felt an itch for angling
In every little brook.
“An osier rod, some thread for line,
A crooked pin for hook;
And, thus equipp’d, I angled
In every little brook.
“Where sticklebacks and minnows
Each day I caught in store,
With stone-roaches and miller’s thumbs:--
These brooks afford no more.
“But I a little angler,
With crooked pin for hook,
Would shun each noisy wrangler,
To fish the little brook.”
What can be more delightful than angling? Not indeed so much on account
of the fish we may catch, but for the pleasantness of the recreation
itself, for the cool streams, the shady trees, the little sunny nooks,
the tiny or gigantic cascades, the meandering rills, the still pools,
“with sedges overhung;” the picturesque mill-wheels, the deep
mill-ponds, “smooth sheeted by the flood;” and above all, for the
hair-breadth escapes, for the duckings, for the hazards, for the
triumphs. We do not wonder at boys being fond of angling, it is almost
an instinct with them, and has long been a favourite amusement with boys
of all degrees, ages and constitutions. Therefore we shall be somewhat
comprehensive in our notices of this interesting sport, that every boy
who can bait a hook and hold a line may be an angler if he will.
A WORD ABOUT FISH.
First, however, let us say a word about fish in general, before we come
to fish in particular. Fish or fishes are, to speak scientifically, a
class of vertebrated animals (having a backbone) inhabiting the water;
which breathe through the medium of that fluid by means of branchiæ or
gills, instead of lungs; which swim by means of fins, and are mostly
covered with scales. They are also generally furnished with a white
membraneous bag close to the backbone, called the air bladder, by the
dilatation or compression of which it is supposed they can rise or sink
in the water at pleasure. All parts of their bodies seem to aid them in
swimming in the water; their fins, their tails, and the undulation of
their back-bones assist progression, and their whole structure is as
much adapted for swimming as that of a bird is for flight.
The fins of fish consist of thin elastic membrane, supported by bony
rays, and are denominated according to their position--_dorsal_ on the
back, _pectoral_ on the breast, _ventral_ near the vent, _anal_ that
between the vent and the tail, and _caudal_ the tail fins. The dorsal
and ventral fins appear to balance the fish, and the pectoral to push it
forward; while the tail fins are the grand instruments of motion, and
enable the creature to dart forward almost as rapidly as the bullet from
a gun.
With regard to the senses of fishes, the eye holds the first place; but
this is best adapted for seeing under water. Of the organ of hearing
there is no outward sign. The organ of taste is thought to be very
unsensitive, and the sense of touch but slightly developed. To preserve
their own existence, and to transmit it to their posterity, seems to be
their only enjoyment; they move forward in pursuit of whatever they can
swallow, conquer, or enjoy, and their insatiable appetite impels them to
encounter every danger, whilst to their rapacity there seems to be no
bound. A single pike has been known to devour a hundred roach in three
days. The fecundity of fish is prodigious. The number of eggs in the
codfish often amounts to more than three millions; those of flounders
are above a million, of the mackarel 500,000, of the sole 100,000, and
of the lobster 20,000; but the sturgeon is far more productive than any
of these, as it has been known to have more than twenty millions of
eggs!
Without saying any more about “Fish in the abstract,” as the angler
called his “catch,” when he returned without one, we must go to the art
of “catching fish;” and the first thing to be attended to is the
necessary fishing apparatus, which may be increased to any extent; but
the _young_ angler would be wise to limit his stock as much as possible.
We have fished many a hundred miles of water, and killed many a thousand
of fish, with no better equipment than this:--One rod of about fourteen
feet long, with three tops,--one stiff top, for bottom fishing and
trolling, and two for fly-fishing. Two reels or winches, one holding a
silk and hair line of thirty-five yards in length for fly-fishing, and
the other holding a similar line, of forty yards, but much stronger, for
bottom fishing, trolling, &c. One moderate-sized creel or fishing
basket. One tin bait-box for worms or gentles; one tin live-bait can for
carrying pike baits or minnows; and one strong _bag_ for carrying
ground-bait. A landing-net; some shoemaker’s wax in a piece of soft
leather; a large clasp-knife; a pair of sharp-pointed scissors; a
pocket-book, the centre filled with leaves of flannel to hold flies, and
the remainder fitted up with gut, hooks, silk, baiting-needles, a pair
of small pliers, split shot, floats, &c.
[Illustration]
ABOUT THE ROD.
The rod is a material article in the young angler’s catalogue, and much
care should be taken to procure a good one. The fishing-tackle shops
keep a great variety, made of bamboo cane, hazel, hickory, and other
kinds of wood. Rods are of different lengths, some fitted as
walking-canes, and others made to pack in canvass bags; the latter are
preferred, because you may have them any length, and they are more true.
Those made of bamboo cane are the best for general angling; but the rods
made of the white cane much superior for fine fishing, particularly for
roach, being very light in weight, but stiff.
CHOOSING THE ROD.
In choosing a rod (not a school rod, for no one likes to choose that),
observe that it is perfectly straight, when all the joints are put
together and that it gradually tapers from the butt to the top, and is
from twelve to sixteen feet long. A bad rod is likely to snap in
striking a heavy fish. Rods fitted with several tops are at once the
best and most convenient. Some anglers have one rod for trolling,
another for barbel, perch, or other heavy fish, as well as one for
fly-fishing--which boys may have when they become men--but a thoroughly
good rod will suit the juvenile for all purposes. We have now one with
which we can fish for anything, from a bleak to a pike, by only changing
the top and second joints.
A good trolling rod should be made of the choicest stout and
well-seasoned bamboo cane, from fourteen to sixteen feet in length. When
trolling with the gorge, or live-bait fishing, a long rod is necessary,
to enable the angler to drop in his baited hook over high sedges,
rushes, &c. as also when the water is bright, for he should then keep as
far away from it as he can, which a long rod enables him to do while
dipping, casting, or spinning his bait. If either a jack or pike see
him, it is very rare indeed that he will take the bait; and again, with
a long rod you will be able to drop your baited hook in some very likely
place for jack or pike, such as a small hole, division, or clear place
among a bed of weeds, in a river or any other water where there are any
weeds.
There is some difference of opinion among anglers about the number of
rings necessary for _trolling rods_: those who have their line on a
thumb winder, or on a bank runner, seldom place more than two or three
rings on their rod, and others have only one large ring at the top; but
if a winch is used, there should be a ring to every joint including the
butt; make each ring of double twist wire, fixed so as always to stand
out, and nearly large enough to admit the top of your little finger; the
top joint should have two rings, the top one nearly three times the size
of the others; this prevents any obstruction of the line running, which
is of material consequence. When not in use, rods should be kept nicely
stowed in a moderately dry place, and they ought to be well scraped and
revarnished every three years; should the joints become loose by
shrinking, they should be slightly moistened. Should any accident befall
a rod while fishing, and you should not have a spare top with you, your
only remedy will be to splice your rod. To do this the ends of the
broken pieces for about two inches must be laid parallel to each other,
and then tightly bound together with waxed silk, or very strong yellow
hempen twine.
LINES OR BOTTOMS.
Next to the rod the line is of the utmost importance. Good lines should
be well twisted. The twisted lines should be made wholly of silk, or
silk hair, but those made of gut are the strongest and best for young
anglers; the twisted hair are the cheapest, and the single horsehair the
finest. The young angler will find a line of about four yards in length
the most useful. A single gut line, with a small porcupine float, is
commonly useful for general fishing; the plaited silk lines are the best
for trolling, and are less inclined to break or tangle than the
twisted.
SHOTTING THE LINE
The line must be shotted, that the float may partially sink in the
water; and in putting on the shots, place them all together within three
inches of the bottom loop of the line; to which loop fix the loop of the
hair or gut to which the hook is tied. When you make a line of silk,
gut, or hair, remember it must be always finest at the bottom, where the
hook is fastened, very gradually increasing in thickness to the top.
THE FLOAT.
There are various kinds of floats, each adapted for different kinds of
fishing. The principal are: 1. Tip-capped floats; 2. Cork floats; 3.
Plugged floats. The tip-capped floats are made of several pieces of
quills, or of reed for the middle, and ivory or tortoiseshell for the
top and bottom, and narrow at each end, gradually increasing in
circumference to the middle. They are superior to all others for angling
in waters which are not very rapid, particularly in roach fishing, as
the least movement or fine bite sinks them below the water. The
tip-capped float is also best for pond fishing for carp and tench, as it
requires but few shot to sink it, and consequently disturbs the water
but little when cast. The young angler should note that the caps which
fix the lines to the float are not rough at the edge, as this roughness
chafes and weakens a fine line; should this be the case, he should
smooth them before use. The best caps are made of gutta-percha.
[Illustration]
_Cork Floats_ are generally made of quills at the top, with a piece of
cork, which is burned or bored in the middle to admit the quill, and
then filed or ground down smooth and painted. The bottom is plugged with
wood, and has a ring to let the line pass through. Cork floats are well
calculated to fish in heavy or rapid streams, as they require a great
many shot to sink them, which weight of shot prevents the baited hook
from passing too rapidly over the bottom. Cork floats are made of
various sizes and forms; instead of common quills, some introduce the
quills of the porcupine, which make an excellent strong float. Except
for live-bait fishing a tapering cork float is preferable to a round
one.
_Plugged Floats._--These kind of floats are the cheapest, and made of
indifferent quills, some of them of one goose quill with a wooden plug
at the bottom, from which they take their name: they are very apt to
loosen by the plug coming out. They are often used by the young angler,
because they are cheap; but we may say in the words of the ancient
Roman, “Bad is the best.”
REELS OR WINCHES.
A reel or winch is a most necessary addition to the rod and line, as it
enables you to vary the length of your line at pleasure, and to play
your fish. The best winches are those to fix in a groove on the rod, and
are fastened with brass ferrules made for the purpose on the butt,
because you can fasten such a winch to any sized joint.
[Illustration]
There are three kinds of winches, check, multipliers, and plain: the
multiplying winch is apt soon to get out of order, unless carefully and
constantly oiled, and is otherwise the least efficient and most
expensive of the three. I would recommend young anglers at first, to
purchase a plain and strong winch, which will answer every purpose, and
be much less expensive. A check winch is, however, the best.
REEL LINES
Are mostly made of silk and horsehair, twisted or plaited together, but
some are made entirely of silk. I prefer the latter, as it is less
likely to twist, runs more freely, and is less likely to rot. The length
of lines vary from fifteen to eighty yards; but for general purposes
thirty or five-and-thirty yards is quite long enough. The line should
always be unwound after a day’s fishing, as, if it is allowed to remain
wet on the reel, it soon rots.
HOOKS.
Hooks are to be bought at the angling shops, of all sizes, and suitable
for the kind of fish to be caught. There are great controversies among
adept anglers about hooks, which are sometimes as violent as those upon
politics or religion. Some anglers prefer what are called the Limerick
hooks, some the Kendal; while others again prefer the Kirby or
Sneckbend. We are hooked to the Kirby, as we consider those to be by far
the best for holding the fish--a most important particular. The hooks
found most suitable for the following fish are these:--
BARBEL, 1, 7, 8, 9.
BLEAK, 11,12, 13.
BREAM, 10.
CARP, 7, 8, 9.
CHUB, 8, 9.
DACE, 10, 11, 12.
EELS, 8.
FLOUNDERS, 3.
GRAYLING, 10, 12.
GUDGEON, 9, 10.
LOACHES, 13.
MILLER’S THUMB, 13.
MINNOW, 13.
PERCH, 7.
ROACH, 10, 11, 12.
RUDD, 10.
RUFFE, 10.
SMELT, 9, 10.
TENCH, 9, 10.
TROUT, 6, 10.
HOW TO BAIT A HOOK.
To bait a hook with a worm, use the following method: First enter the
point of the hook close to the top of the worm’s head, and carry it
carefully down to within a quarter of an inch of its tail; to do which
you must gently squeeze or work up the worm with your left thumb and
finger, while with your right you are gradually working the hook
downwards. The small lively piece of the worm at the point of the hook
moving about will entice the fish; but, mind, if too much of the worm
hangs loose, though it may entice fish to nibble, yet they will seldom
take the whole in their mouth, so as to enable the angler to hook them;
on the contrary, he is frequently tantalized with a bite, and, when he
strikes, finds part of his worm gone, and his fish too. Therefore, to
bait a hook well with a worm is necessary to ensure hooking a fish when
you strike; and it consists in drawing the worm without injuring it (use
him as you would a friend, Walton says) quite over and up the shank of
the hook, leaving only a small lively part of the tail below. If you
bait with half a worm, prefer the tail end, and enter the point of the
hook into the top part, and bring it down nearly to the end of the tail,
leaving only a very small piece of it loose. If you bait with two worms
on the same hook, draw the first up above the shank, while you put the
second on in the same manner as directed with one worm, but enter the
hook near the tail of the second worm; then draw the first one down on
the second over the shank of the hook, and all will then be well
covered, and the bait will be a very _bon-bon_ for perch, chub, carp,
barbel, and all large fish; but when angling for gudgeon, and other
small fish, half a red worm is sufficient, and the tail end is best. If
blood-worms are used, put on two or three, in doing which be tender, or
you will burst them.
BAITS.
The principal baits are--
1. THE LOB-WORM.
2. THE BRANDLING.
3. THE MARSH-WORM.
4. THE TAGTAIL.
5. THE ASH-GRUB.
6. COWDUNG BAIT.
7. CATERPILLARS.
8. CABBAGE-WORMS.
9. CRAB-TREE-WORMS.
10. GENTLES.
11. CAD-WORMS.
12. FLAG-WORMS.
13. GRASSHOPPERS.
14. WASP-GRUB.
15. COCKCHAFERS.
16. BREAD PASTE.
17. CHEESE PASTE.
1. _Lob-worms_ are found in gardens or churchyards, late in the evening;
they have a red head, a streak down the back, and a broad tail. This is
a good worm for salmon, chub, trout, barbel, eels, and large perch.
2. _Brandling_ is found in old dunghills, rotten earth or cow-dung, and
the best in tanners’ bark. It is a good bait for any kind of fish.
3. The _Marsh-worm_ is found in marshy grounds, or on the banks of
rivers; and is a good bait for trout, perch, gudgeon, grayling, and
bream.
4. The _Tagtail_ is found in marly lands or meadows, after a shower; and
is a good bait for trout when the water is muddy.
5. The _Ash-grub_ is found in the bark of trees. It is a good bait for
grayling, dace, roach, or chub.
6. _Cowdung Bait_ is found under cowdung, from May to Michaelmas; and is
good bait for grayling, dace, roach, or chub.
7. _Caterpillars_ can be found on almost every tree or plant. Almost any
small caterpillar will answer.
8. The _Cabbage caterpillar_ is found on cabbages.
9. The _Crabtree-worm_ can be taken by beating the branches of the
crab-apple.
10. _Gentles._ These are bred in putrid meat--liver producing the
best--or may generally be obtained from the butchers. They are an
excellent bait for most kinds of fish.
[Illustration: THE CADDIS FLY.]
11. _Caddis_ is found in ditches, or on the sides of brooks. It is an
excellent bait for trout, grayling, roach, dace, or chub.
12. _Flag-worms_ are found among flags in old pits or ponds, and are
good bait for grayling, tench, bream, carp, roach, and dace.
13. _Grasshoppers_ are found in sun-burnt grass, and are good bait for
chub, trout, and grayling.
14. _Wasp-grubs_ are to be obtained from wasps’ nests, and are a good
bait for most fish that will take gentles.[2]
[2] Wasp-grubs will keep better, and be easier to fit on the hook, if
they are baked for half-an-hour.
15. _Cockchafers_ are found humming round the bushes at about dusk on a
summer evening, and everywhere, and sometimes in cowdung; are a capital
bait for chub, though not for anything else.
16. _White-bread Paste_ is prepared by dipping white bread in water
(soaking and squeezing it in the corner of a pocket-handkerchief is the
best way), and then working it a little in the palm of the hand. It is a
good bait for carp, tench, chub, or roach. Some add a little honey.
17. _Cheese Paste_ is made with fresh cheese, worked up in the hand. It
is a good bait for chub.
18. _Ground Bait_ should be used in the spot about to be fished, and, if
possible, the night before, and should be fresh. For carp, chub, roach,
or dace, use white bread soaked in water, and mixed with bran, pollard,
or meal. For barbel, chandler’s greaves, boiled and worked up into a
ball with clay. Gentles may also be used as ground bait for any of the
above.
TO BAIT WITH GREAVES.
First select the whitest pieces from those you have soaked, and put two
or three of them upon your hook, or as much as will cover it from the
bend to and over the point; these pieces should be put on the hook
separately, one after the other--not a large piece doubled, as some
slovenly boys will do, for then the hook is prevented from entering
firmly the fish you may strike. These little particulars of baiting are
of considerable advantage to young anglers, who ought to remember also
that it is a bad practice to soak greaves in hot water, for it makes
them rotten, and they in consequence soon fall off the hook.
TO SCOUR AND PRESERVE WORMS.
To do this, the young angler should provide himself with a quantity of
fresh moss. Wash out all the earth and squeeze it, but not too dry; then
put it into a jar and squeeze it lightly down: throw in the worms upon
it. The jar should be kept in a cool place in summer, and the moss
changed once in three or four days. Gentles should be thrown into a
mixture of damp sand or bran to scour them, and will be ready in two or
three days.
THE PLUMMET.
Plummets are used by anglers for sounding the depth of a stream or hole.
They are of two kinds, either the folding plummet, or the common
plummet. The folding plummet, which is the better, is made of a slip of
sheet lead, folded up; and this the young angler should never be
without.
PLUMBING THE DEPTH
[Illustration]
Is performed in the following manner: If a folding plummet, unfold about
two inches of it, pass the hook over its side, and then fold the plummet
up again: your hook is now secured from drawing away from the plummet.
As success depends much in angling at a proper depth, the young angler
should take due pains, and measure the depth accurately before he begins
fishing. When the plumb-lead touches the bottom, and the top of the
float is even with the surface of the water, you will have the true
depth.
LANDING-HOOK AND LANDING-NET.
[Illustration]
The landing-hook or gaff is a large hook, which is sometimes barbed like
a fish-hook, and sometimes plain, fastened to one end of a handle; this
latter is occasionally composed of several pieces, which run one into
another, like the slides of a telescope. A landing-net is a small net
mounted on a iron ring, which is fastened, like the landing-hook, to the
end of a handle or pole.
CLEARING RING AND LINE.
The clearing-line is made of several yards of strong small cord, to the
end of which is fastened a heavy ring of lead or brass. If the hook
should get fast in a heavy weed, post, or anything else, this ring is
put over the butt of the rod, and suffered to slip down the line to the
hook. The rod should be held in the right hand, the top pointing
downwards, the clearing-line in the left, the ring falling on the hook,
from its weight, generally clears the hook from what it may have struck
against. If not, the angler should hold the rod firmly, and draw the
line sideways, and break away. In this case, the angler seldom loses
more than a hook, if he acts as above directed; but without the
assistance of a clearing-line he frequently loses his float as well as
his hook and line, and sometimes breaks his top joint. The brass
clearing-rings are to be preferred, because they are jointed, and in
consequence can be used when the angler has a winch in his rod, in which
case the leaden ring could not be passed over the winch.
DRAG-HOOK.
The drag is a piece of iron with three or four stout wire hooks without
barbs, placed back to back, fastened to a strong cord line, and which is
used to draw away weeds.
BANK RUNNER.
The bank-runner is mostly used in the day-time, when the angler is
fishing for roach, barbel, &c. It is stuck in the bank, the bottom
being strong turned wood, sharpened for the purpose, with a winder at
the top for the line, which should be from forty to sixty yards long,
made of silk, thin cord, or plaited Dutch twine. But there should be a
cork and bullet to the line, and the bait a dace or gudgeon, which
should swim about mid-water.
LIVE-BAIT KETTLE.
This should be of an oblong form, and not round; bright inside, and
brown out. In getting out the bait, never put your hand into the water,
which frightens the fish, and, by heating the water, makes them sickly
and dull; but make use of a small net, which is easily carried in the
fish-kettle, by having a piece of the lid cut away in one corner.
DISGORGER.
This is an instrument with a forked top, about six inches long, made of
iron, brass, or bone. Its use is to get the hook from a fish when
swallowed; and in using it, the forked end is thrust down upon the
swallowed hook with one hand, while the line is held tight with the
other: pressure disgorges the hook, and it is then easily drawn out. In
attempting to get a gorged hook from a fish without this instrument, you
run a hazard of breaking the hook and hurting yourself. When the fish is
hooked through the lip, the angler has only to hold the fish steadily in
one hand, while with the other he carefully disengages the hook.
ANGLING AXIOMS.
1. Never fish any water without leave from the proprietor, unless it be
water that is free to all comers.
2. Never use unfair bait, or attempt to take fish in any but a fair and
sportsmanlike manner.
3. Never start on a day’s fishing without first considering the wind,
weather, and water.
4. Never let your shadow fall on the water.
5. Use the finest tackle of which your fishing will admit.
6. Never begin bottom fishing without first plumbing the depth.
7. Never intrude upon another fisherman’s water.
8. And always remember that nothing is lost by politeness.
ACCOUNTS OF THE VARIOUS FRESH-WATER FISH,
WITH THEIR HABITS, HAUNTS, SEASONS, AND THE METHODS OF TAKING THEM.
THE SALMON.
The Salmon is the king of fresh-water fish. It is handsome in form, its
head is small, its nose pointed, its back and sides grey, its belly
silvery, and its flesh the well-known salmon colour. The male may
generally be distinguished by its having the lower jaw more “hooked,” or
turned up at the point, than the female; the head is also generally
somewhat longer, in comparison to the rest of the body.
[Illustration]
Salmon bite best from six till eleven in the forenoon, and from three in
the afternoon until sunset, especially when there is a moderate breeze
upon the water. The chief months to angle for them are March, April,
May, and June. They are to be fished for with lob-worms, or in spinning
with minnows, but a large artificial fly is the most killing bait. The
rod, for a boy, should not be less than fifteen feet long, with a good
running line, and the reel should contain at least fourscore yards. The
hook must be large and long in the shank. Few of our young readers,
however, will be able to go salmon fishing till they have reached
maturity, and, therefore, to give detailed instructions as to the modes
of capturing the fish would be superfluous.
THE TROUT.
This beautiful fish is much prized. Izaak Walton says of it, “It is more
sharp-sighted than any hawk, and more watchful and timorous than your
high-mettled merlin is bold.” In its habits it is a very solitary and
predacious fish.
The trout are found in lakes and rivers and minor streams, and are
finest in appearance from the beginning of April to the end of July or
middle of August: their principal spawning time is from November to
January. The most brilliant and beautiful trout are generally found in
streams that flow rapidly over rocky or chalky bottoms. They feed upon
worms, minnows, and other small fish, but their favourite food consists
of insects, flies, caterpillars, &c. upon which they thrive and fatten
prodigiously.
[Illustration]
In angling for the trout we must have a stout rod and running tackle.
The principal baits for him are natural and artificial flies, minnows,
and worms. The minnow is, perhaps, the most taking bait for large trout:
it should be cast lightly on the water, and drawn trippingly against the
current so as to spin. The angler must strike directly his bait is
seized. The favourite haunts of the trout are scours, mill tails,
eddies, pools, the roots of overhanging trees, and the “nethers” of
bridges and weirs.
THE JACK OR PIKE.
The mighty luce or pike, says Walton, is taken to be the tyrant, as the
salmon is the king, of the fresh waters. His aspect is savage but by no
means repulsive, and when in fine condition a large pike is altogether a
grand-looking fish. His teeth are very sharp and very numerous, being
upwards of seven hundred, and his voracious appetite is such that
nothing comes amiss to him. He has been known to swallow the plummet,
and the clay and bran balls of ground bait of the angler, and he will
prey upon “rats and mice and such small deer,” with ducks, geese, and
even swans, which he has been known to pull under water. He often grows
to an enormous size (no wonder), and has been taken upwards of ninety
pounds in weight.
Pike are fond of dull, shady, and unfrequented waters, with a sandy,
chalky, or clayey bottom, and are found among or near flags, bulrushes,
or water docks. They seldom seek a very rapid stream, although weirs and
mill-pools are often their favourite retreat in the early summer
months--that is, in June and July, when they have recently spawned. In
winter they retire into the depths, eddies, and waters little acted upon
by the current.
[Illustration]
The pike is in its prime during October and November, but is in season
from June to February; the baits used for it are gudgeon, minnows, chub,
and bleak, and should be about three or four inches in length. The rod
should be strong; the line of dressed silk, at least sixty yards long,
wound upon the winch already described. Hooks for trolling, called dead
gorges, and other sorts for trolling, snap, &c. and fishing needles, are
to be bought at every shop where fishing tackle is sold; in the choice
of the first, let them not be too large, nor their temper injured by the
lead on the shanks, nor the points stand too proud; and although usually
sold on wire, it is recommended to cut off the wire about half an inch
from the lead, and with a double silk, well waxed, fasten about a foot
of good gimp to the wire, with a noose at the other end of the gimp
large enough to admit the bait to pass through to hang it upon the line.
The best baits are gudgeon and dace of a middling size; put the baiting
needle in at the mouth and out at the middle of the tail, drawing the
gimp and hook after it, fixing the point of the hook near the eye of the
fish; tie the tail to the gimp, which will not only keep it in a proper
position, but prevent the tail from catching against the weeds and roots
in the water. Thus baited, the hook is to be fastened to the line and
dropped gently in the water near the sides of the river, across the
water, or where it is likely pike resort; keep the bait in constant
motion, sometimes letting it sink near the bottom and gradually raising
it. When the bait is taken, let the pike have what line he chooses. It
will be soon known when he has reached his hole, which he generally
flies to, by his not drawing more. Allow him ten minutes for gorging the
bait, wind up the line gently till you think it is nearly at its
stretch, and then strike. Manage him with a gentle hand, keeping him,
however, from roots and stumps, which he will try to fasten the line
upon, till he is sufficiently tired, and a landing net can be used; but
by no means, however apparently exhausted he may be, attempt to lift him
out with the rod and line only.
[Illustration]
In trolling, the bait hook should never be thrown too far; in small
rivers the opposite bank may be fished with ease, though the violence of
its falls upon the water in long throws soon spoils the bait by rubbing
off its scales. In angling for pike always prefer a rough wind. If a
pike goes slowly up a stream, after taking the bait, it is said to be
the sign of a good fish.
THE GUDGEON.
Is one of the most delicious fish for eating, although small in size. It
bites freely from the latter end of spring until autumn, in gloomy warm
days, from an hour after sunrise to within the same space of its
setting; and during the rest of the year, in the middle of the day, when
it is warmest.
In angling for gudgeon the tackle must be very fine, a single hair or
fine gut fine, a hook No. 8 or 9, a short rod and line, and a small
tapering cork float. The gudgeon will take the small red-worm greedily,
and blood-worms--the first is perhaps the best. A rake or the boat-hook
should be kept frequently stirring the bottom. To the spot so stirred
gudgeon assemble in shoals, expecting food from the discolouring of the
water. They are apt to nibble at the bait; the angler ought not,
therefore, to strike till the float goes well down.
[Illustration: GUDGEON AND BREAM.]
Should any young angler desire a good day’s fishing for gudgeon, and a
pleasant walk into the bargain, he should seek out some sequestered
gravelly stream, and providing himself with a rake with a long handle,
he may have sport till he is tired of it. He will find the fish
scattered up and down every river in the shallows during the heat of
summer, but in winter they get into deeper water. Gudgeon are to be
fished for there with your hook always touching the ground.
THE ROACH.
The roach is a handsome fish either in or out of the water. It inhabits
many of our deep still rivers, delighting most in quiet waters. It is
gregarious, keeping in large shoals. It delights in gravelly, sandy, or
a kind of slimy marl bottom, under a deep gentle running stream; in
summer it often frequents shallows near the tails of fords, or lies
under banks among weeds, under the shades of boughs, and at or opposite
the mouth of a rivulet or brook, that empties itself into a large river.
In winter the roach like to get into clear, deep, and still waters.
The tackle for roach must be fine and strong, a twelve-foot rod and a
five-foot line, a porcupine float, and hooks No. 11 or 12. The bait,
gentils, bread-paste, boiled wheat or red worms. The ground bait should
be damp meal or bran, mixed with soaked bread or clay (the former best).
In fishing for roach in ponds, chew and throw in white bread. The hook
should be No. 6, and the bait either touch the bottom or lie within one
inch of it. As many gentils should be put on the hook as will cover it,
all but the barb. Strike _directly_ the float goes down.
The season for roach fishing in the Thames begins about the latter end
of August and continues through the winter. To London Bridge and among
the shipping below it, numbers of roach return in June and July, after
having been up the river to spawn, and many of them are taken by means
of a strong cord, to which is fastened a leaden weight, more or less,
according to the strength of the current; a foot above this lead a twine
twelve feet long is joined to the cord, and to this twine at convenient
distances are tied a dozen hair links, with roach hooks at the ends;
these are baited with white snails or periwinkles, the fisherman holds
the cord in his hand, and easily feels the biting of the fish, which is
a signal to pull up, and frequently five or six are taken at a haul.
[Illustration: ROACH AND DACE.]
THE DACE.
Dace are gregarious--are great breeders--very lively--and during summer
fond of playing near the surface. Their haunts are deep water, near the
piles of bridges, where the stream is gentle, and has a sandy or clayey
bottom. They like deep holes that are shaded by water-lily leaves, and
under the foam caused by an eddy; in the warm months they are to be
found in shoals on the shallows and gravels.
The baits for dace are red-worms, gentles, and small flies, natural or
artificial, used as in fly-fishing for trout. In angling for dace with
worms, maggots, &c. the tackle cannot be too fine, the float small, the
hook No. 9, the shot a foot from it; by baiting the place with a few
maggots before fishing, the diversion will be increased. If you angle in
an eddy between two mill streams, and the water is only two or three
feet deep, there will be a greater chance of success than where it is
deeper; bait and strike as in roach fishing. The ground-bait may also be
the same.
Fish for dace within three inches of the ground, especially where the
ant fly is the bait under water. In fishing, take advantage if you can
of a still, warm, gloomy day, or go in a summer’s evening to a gravelly
or sandy shallow, or tail end of a mill-stream, and as long as the light
continues the dace will yield diversion.
THE PERCH.
“Perch feed on perch,” is an old maxim; the perch being the only one of
all fresh-water fish that feeds on its own kind. His excuse is a
prodigious appetite, like that of Saturn, who ate his own offspring.
Notwithstanding this wicked propensity, the perch is a beautiful fish,
the back and part of the sides being a deep green, marked with broad
black bars, pointing downwards; the spaces between are golden, the belly
white, and the fins tinged with scarlet. They vary greatly in size. The
largest perch we ever caught weighed three pounds twelve ounces, and was
taken with a roach bait near Richmond. Their general length is about ten
or twelve inches.
[Illustration]
Perch are found in ponds and in clear rivers with pebbly, clayey, or
sandy bottoms. They are fond of water moderately deep, and frequent
holes near to gentle streams where there is an eddy, the hollows under
banks, among weeds and roots of trees, piles of bridges, or in ponds
which are fed by a brook or rivulet. The perch is a bold biter in the
summer, but scarcely ever in the winter. In the middle of a warm
sunshiny day, you are sure to have him with a proper bait. In the winter
he bites best in large quiet eddies, to which he retreats after the
first heavy flood.
The baits for perch are various, as well as the manner of using them. Of
worms, the best are brandlings, and red dunghill-worms, well scoured.
The hook may be varied from No. 2 to 6, being well whipped to a strong
silkworm gut, with a shot or two a foot from it. Put the point of the
hook in at the head of the worm, out again a little lower than the
middle, pushing it above the shank of the hook upon the gut; then put
the point of the hook into the worm again the reverse way, and draw the
head part down so as to cover the hook entirely. This is the most
enticing method that can be adopted in worm-fishing. Use a small cork
float to keep the bait at six or twelve inches from the bottom, or
sometimes about mid-water. In angling near the bottom, raise the bait
very frequently from thence almost to the surface, letting it gradually
fall again. Should a good shoal be met with, they are so greedy that
sometimes they may be all caught.
Other baits for perch are cadbait and gentles; but the best and most
enticing bait is a live minnow. If you find the fish shy, try not long
in one spot. In baiting your hook with the minnow, fix your hook through
his upper lip, and use a small reel with your rod. Your hook should be
No. 5, fastened to a link of gut.
THE GRAYLING.
The grayling is a fish of elegant form; the back is of a dusky purple,
the sides of a fine silvery grey, with the scales in long parallel rows
or lines (from which the fish derives its name), marked with black
spots, irregularly placed. It is rather a hog-backed fish; and, from the
nose and belly touching the ground together, is supposed to feed mostly
at the bottom. In length it seldom exceeds sixteen inches, but some have
been caught upwards of five pounds in weight.
[Illustration]
The haunts of the grayling are in rapid, clear streams, particularly
such as flow through mountainous countries. They are usually taken in
the same manner as the trout, and with similar baits. They do not bite
freely till late in August, or early in September, and may be found at
the tails of sharp streams and in deep water. They rise more boldly than
the trout, and if missed several times will still pursue the bait. They
will bite during the whole of the cold cloudy days; but the preferable
time to look after them is between eight and twelve o’clock in the
morning, and from four in the afternoon till after sunset. Grasshoppers,
wasp-grubs, maggots, and the artificial fly, are the most killing baits.
THE CHUB.
This fish takes its name from the shape of the head, not only in our
own, but in other languages. The head and back are of a deep dusky
green, the sides silvery. The tail is forked, and very black at the end,
and altogether the chub is rather a handsome fish, although its flesh is
not much in esteem.
The haunts of the chub are in rivers whose bottoms are of sand or clay,
or which flow over a gravelly bottom, in deep holes, under hollow banks;
in summer, particularly where shaded by trees, &c. they frequently float
on the surface, and are sometimes found in streams and deep waters,
where the currents are strong. In ponds fed by a rivulet they grow to a
large size.
[Illustration]
To fish for chub at the bottom, you should have a stout long rod, a
strong line (and if you use a reel, you will be the better able to fish
under bushes), with two yards or more of the best silkworm gut at
bottom; a hook proportionate to the bait used; a swan-quill float; and
the line so shotted, eight or ten inches from the hook, as to sink the
float to a quarter of an inch above the surface. The same groundbait is
to be used as for carp. The best baits are greaves, cheese paste, or the
tail end of a well-scoured lob-worm. The cockchafer is also a very
tempting bait, especially towards dusk: no float or shot are required
for this.
After baiting your hook with a cockchafer, move it two or three times
near the surface, as in the act of flying; then drop it in the water,
tapping the rod gently, which will cause the appearance of its
struggling to escape. This attracts the chub, who are so fond of this
bait, that they will rise two or three at a time to seize it. But mind
and be ready with your landing-net.
The chub will take a grub, wasps, maggots, paste of fine new bread
worked in the hand, and tinged with vermilion, to make it look like
salmon-roe; but the best bait for bottom or float-fishing for the chub
is new Cheshire cheese, worked with the crumb of a new roll, or the pith
from the backbone of an ox. In baiting with the cheese, put a round lump
the size of a cherry on a large hook, so as to cover the bend, and some
way up the shank; fish six inches from the bottom, or in cold weather
the bait may lie on the ground. When there is a bite, the float will be
drawn under water: strike immediately, and give him play, holding a
tolerably tight line, to keep the fish clear from weeds and stumps.
The best time for fishing for chub is chiefly before sunrise to nine in
the morning, and from four till after sunset in the summer; but, in
winter, the middle of the day is best. In hot weather, the chub is to be
fished for at or near the top of the water, and not deeper than
midwater; and in cold weather, close to or near the bottom; and the main
point in taking the fish is for the angler to keep himself out of sight.
A very deadly way of killing chub, and certainly the most artistic
method, is with the artificial fly, used as in trout fishing. Flies are
made expressly for this purpose, and of these the best are red and black
palmers, and the Marlow buzz.
THE CARP.
Carp are esteemed among the richest fresh-water fish we have in the
kingdom, and are as cunning as foxes. The angler, therefore, must be
“wide awake” to catch him, and also as patient as a saint. He may,
however, fish for him at any time in the day during warm weather. The
bait may be either worms or paste. Of worms, the bluish marsh or meadow
is the best; but a red-worm, not too big, will do: of paste, the best is
made of bread and honey; and the spot intended should be well baited
beforehand. In a large pond, to draw them together, throw in either
grains, or soaked bread worked up with meal or bran; follow this with a
few of the small baits you intend to angle with.
[Illustration]
Whilst you are fishing, chew a little bread, and throw it in about the
place where your float swims. In fishing for carp in ponds, the bait and
about half a foot of the gut nearest the hook should _lie on the
bottom_; otherwise the carp will continually suck the bait off. When the
carp has fairly taken the bait, you will perceive the float move
steadily away or under water, then strike, and not till then. In this
way, with due patience, you will prove a match for these crafty fish.
THE TENCH.
The tench is one of our most useful fresh-water fishes, for the ease
with which it may be preserved, and the goodness of its flesh. It is
very usual to breed it in ponds, but naturally, like many others of the
carp tribe, it is generally found in lakes and still waters; its
favourite haunts are in places well shaded with bushes or rushes. In
standing waters, it lies under weeds, near sluices, and at pond-heads.
[Illustration]
The best baits for tench are bread paste and red worms, but he usually
prefers the latter. He feeds best in the three hot months. The worm
should be put on the hook in the method directed for perch, but the hook
itself should be of a somewhat smaller size. Use a light float and
strong gut line, and let the bait swim within an inch or two of the
bottom.
THE POPE, OR RUFF,
Is something like a perch in shape, but more bluff and bulky. He is
found principally in slow, deep, quiet rivers, which have a loamy
bottom. The spawning time is in April. The best baits for him are
red-worms and brandlings. The places where he is to be had are where
the water is deep and still; and these places should be baited with some
clay-balls, with which worms are mixed. Should the water be muddy, worms
will do alone; but if clear, clay must be used to render it opaque
before you fish. The fish will bite at any time of a warm summer’s day,
when the sky is cloudy. In angling, use a No. 8 or 9 hook, with a quill
float; and the moment you see the float disappear, strike.
[Illustration]
THE BREAM.
The bream, at full growth, is a large and stately fish, and is
oftentimes as fat as a hog. He is principally found in large ponds or in
lakes, and in still rivers where the waters are deep and shaded by
weeds; and may be taken throughout the latter part of summer and autumn.
The baits are many: paste made of white bread and honey, gentles,
wasp-grubs, and brandlings; but much the best general bait is the tail
end of a lob-worm. Use lob-worms, cut in pieces, brewers’ grains, or
greaves, as groundbaits in the places where you intend to angle. Use a
gut line, quill float, and hook the same as for perch. Sound the bottom,
which should be eight or ten feet deep, and stand at least two yards
from the bank from which you fish; the bait should just touch or trip
along the bottom.
THE FLOUNDER.
The flounder is a well-known flat-fish very common about our own coasts;
and should any of our young friends be at the seaside, it is well that
they should know how to take flounder. They are also found in rivers, at
some distance from the sea. They may be taken in May, July, and
August,--not in June, as that is their spawning time. The best baits
are red-worms and marsh-worms, on a No. 6 hook; and you should fish at
the bottom.
[Illustration: THE FLOUNDER.]
EELS.
Eels are denizens of the mud; but they are fond of clean not foul mud,
and ought never to be sought after in filthy places. There are many
modes of taking them: by rod and line, by dead line, by sniggling, by
bobbing, and by spearing. When a rod is used, you should put a brandling
or red-worm on a No. 8 hook; the bait should touch the bottom; and, when
you have a “bite,” the float should be drawn quite under water before
you strike.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
The dead line is a line of whipcord, with hooks about two feet asunder,
baited with lob-worms or small fish, and having a weight at the end. You
should also have a bank-runner--a reel on a pin or stake stuck into the
ground on the edge of the bank; the line and baits should be thrown in,
and left for the eels to amuse themselves with,--looked to, and drawn up
at your leisure.
In sniggling, a lob-worm is put upon a stout worsted needle; the line is
on a winder; and the fish will be found near flood-gates, wharfings,
bridges, piles, holes in the banks of rivers, ponds, and canals. The
bait should be put into the lurking-places of the eel, by means of a
stick with a forked head; and when the bait is taken, which will easily
be known by the pull of the string, strike.
Bobbing for eels.--In this process long red-worms are strung on threads
of worsted, until a bunch as large as the two fists is formed around a
piece of lead. The whole is sunk to the bottom, or nearly so, then
raised a little, then depressed, so as to induce the eels to bite. When
this occurs, heave up without hurry. The number of eels taken in this
way is often prodigious.
In spearing eels, the spearer usually goes into the mud in a pair of
pants or mud pattens, pieces of square board fastened into the heel to
prevent sinking. He takes an eel-spear in his hand, something like
Neptune’s trident, and progs the mud all over, and the eels are caught
between the forked blades of the spear. Great numbers of eels are taken
in this way on the muddy ooze of salt or fresh-water rivers.
THE STICKLEBACK AND MINNOW.
[Illustration]
The stickleback is a dark-coloured little fish, found in ditches and
ponds. They are best caught with a small hand-net, and are occasionally
used as bait for perch. The minnow is very beautiful in appearance,
being of a rose colour underneath, and may be taken with a worm and a
No. 13 hook at any time of day; but more easily with a small hand-net.
They are commonly found in little rivulets, rills, or small sandy
streams, and are highly prized by the angler as baits for many kinds of
fish.
THE BARBEL.
The barbel is a bold, sturdy, handsome-looking fish, although its flesh
is coarse to the eater; but he is a rare fellow for sport, and often
affords great amusement as well as chagrin to the angler by his bolting
off with the line by a “coup de barbel,” and breaking it with his tail.
Izaak Walton says, that barbel “flock together like sheep.”
Barbel are to be found in the strongest runs of water. In summer, they
love the shallowest and sharpest streams, and will lurk under weeds, and
will root and dig in the sand like pigs. Sometimes he retires to deep
and swift bridges, or to flood-gates or weirs, and will rest himself
against piles or hollow places. In winter he gets into deep water.
[Illustration: BARBEL WITH GOLD CARP.]
In fishing for barbel in large streams, you should go out in a boat
provided with greaves, gentles, and red-worms; and, before you begin
fishing, you should throw in plenty of groundbait--such as soaked
greaves, bran and clay made into small balls, maggots, or lob-worms.
They may be angled for with a stout rod, strong running line, cork
float, and No. 7 or 8 hook, baited with marshworms or greaves. The
barbel being a sharp biter, strike the moment you feel a nibble. He may
be caught from May to October all day, but best in the morning and
evening. After he is struck he will frequently make a run, but you must
play him gently; keep him clear of weeds, and try to get him into deep
water; and when you have him, mind he does not bounce out of your hand
and drop down the stream again.
NATURAL FLY-FISHING, OR DIPPING.
Fishing with a fly may be practised either with the natural fly, usually
called “dipping,” or with the artificial fly; in which latter case the
sport is called “fly-fishing,” or sometimes “whipping.” Dipping requires
a moderately long and _stiff_ rod, of about twelve or thirteen feet. The
line should not be above a yard in length from the end of the rod, but
the reel should contain sufficient to play the fish if necessary. When
the river is much overhung with bushes, it is a good plan to wind the
line round the end of the top joint, leaving only a few inches
dependent; and then, having thrust the rod through some small opening in
the bushes, gradually to unwind the line by turning the rod in the hand,
so as to drop the fly on the water in the most gentle manner. In this
insidious way large fish are often taken with any of the flies which are
in season and found at the time on the banks of the river which is
fished, especially if they are only just coming out, and the fish are
not yet satiated with them. It is quite needless to give a list of the
natural flies which are likely to prove serviceable to the fisherman,
because he has only to look for those which _at the time_ are tempting
the fish, and then to endeavour to find them on the banks, and at once
to try their powers. In the case of chub, however, he will find
grasshoppers and humble-bees more useful than any of the flies, and yet
they are neither of them often seen upon the waters, and may be
considered exceptional cases. The fish which will generally take the
natural fly are grayling, trout, chub, and dace.
FLY-FISHING AND ARTIFICIAL FLIES.
For this delightful sport, which captivates alike the sexagenarian and
the schoolboy, rods and tackle of the finest quality are required. It is
true, that a good workman will take fish even with a willow wand, but
still he would do far better with a rod turned out by a good maker; and
few young hands will be able to do much without a well-finished specimen
of the art of rod-making. The rod should be strong, yet fine, and either
of dressed silk, or silk and hair mixed. The lower portion, called the
foot-length, is of gut, generally occupying about five or six feet of
it, to which one, two, or three flies are attached, the one at the end
being called a stretcher, and the others droppers.
The fly-fisher should be able to make his own flies, as there is a great
advantage in being able to “do for oneself;” and it may sometimes happen
that he may be out of a particular fly when far away from “fly shops.”
MATERIALS FOR MAKING FLIES.
Feathers of various kinds; hairs of various kinds; very fine sewing
silk; gold and silver twist. Of the first, the young fly-fisher must
provide himself with the feathers of the duck, cock, grouse, snipe,
bittern, woodcock, partridge, landrail, starling, jay, golden plover,
and peacock. Of the second, the fur from Tommy’s tail, from the skins of
squirrels, moles, and water rats, camel’s hair, hare’s ear, fur from its
neck, the yellow fur from the neck of the martin, mohairs of different
shades, camlets, black horsehair, hog’s down dyed various colours. And
with these, gimps, silks, and tinsel, a good pair of pliers, and a pair
of fine-pointed scissors.
In making your fly, imitate as nearly as possible the natural fly you
wish to represent; to do this properly, it will be well to dissect a
natural fly, and to imitate its several parts, and then to reconstruct
it with a reference to the whole. With a hook of the proper size, and a
feather of the right colour, the fly-maker may now commence. His feather
must be stripped down on each side, leaving just so much as will do for
the wings at the fine end; a piece of fine gut, free from imperfection,
and properly tested as to its strength; dubbing or hackle; and a piece
of fine silk well waxed with shoemaker’s wax.
Let the essay be now made. Hold your hook in the left hand, wrap the
silk round the bare hook two or three times, and put the finest end of
the gut on the under side of the hook. If you are working for a tackle
fly, begin at the band and work up to the head, after turning three or
four times round the hook and gut; fasten on the tackle, and continue
the winding of the silk until it reaches the end of the hook, then turn
it back two or three times, to form the head. The dubbing must now be
twisted round the silk, and wrapped upon the hook for nearly half the
proposed length of the body; fasten it there by a single loop, that both
hands may be at liberty to manage the tackle.
When sufficient of the feather is wound upon the hook, the remainder
should be held under the thumb of the left hand, and the entangled
fibres picked out with a needle. The silk and dubbing must now be
twisted over the end of the tackle, until the body of the fly is of the
length required, and then fastened. If gold or silver twist is used, the
twist should be fastened to the lower end of the body before the dubbing
is applied to the silk.
_To make a winged fly_, the same method must be observed in tying on the
hook; then take the feather which is to form the wings, and place it
even on the upper side of the shank, with the roots pointing towards the
bend of the hook; fasten the feathers, by winding the silk over it, and
cut the root end close with a pair of scissors, and divide the wings as
equally as possible with a needle, passing the silk two or three times
between them, to make them stand in a proper position; bring the silk
down the shank of the hook the proposed length of the body, and fasten
it, then apply the dubbing to the silk, and twist it towards the wings;
fasten in the hackle for legs, and wind it neatly under the wings, so as
to hide the ends of the cut fibres: the silk must be fastened above the
wings--be careful of this.
It would be impossible for us, nor would it be very useful to the young
fly-fisher, to give him directions for making every kind of fly. We may,
however, throw out a few hints concerning the making of most of the
flies in common use, and of the materials employed.
[Illustration]
1. _The green drake or May fly._--This is one of the most killing trout
flies, but it is seldom in the water for a longer period than three
weeks. The time of its appearance varies in different rivers, but it
generally rises about the last week in May, and continues for about
three weeks. The wings are made of the light feathers of a grey drake,
dyed a pale yellow-green colour, by being boiled for a minute or two in
a decoction of green vitriol. The body is formed of amber-coloured
mohair or silk ribbon, with dark green silk; the head of peacock’s harl,
and the tail of three long hairs taken from a sable muff.
2. _The black gnat._--The body of this fly is made of black ostrich
harl, and the wings of a pale starling’s feather; it must be dressed
short and thick. It is in use from the end of April till the end of May,
and is a good killer when the water is low.
3. _Hare’s ear._--The wings are made from the feather of a starling’s
wing, the body from the fur of the hare’s ear, the legs of a ginger
cock’s hackle.
4. _Cock tail._--Wings of the light feather from a snipe’s wing, the
body of yellow mohair.
5. _Whirling dun._--Wings of a snipe’s feather, body of blue fur wrapped
with yellow silk, and a blue cock’s hackle for legs; the tail of two
hairs from a coloured muff.
6. _Grey drake._--Wings of a dark grey feather of the mallard, the body
of white silk, striped with dark silk, the head of a peacock’s harl, and
the tail of three hairs from a sable muff.
7. _Cowdung fly._--The wings of the feather of a landrail, the body of
yellow camlet, mixed with a little brown bear-fur, and a ginger hackle
for legs; the wings should be dressed flat.
8. _Bee fly._--The body of thread of various colours, arranged in
stripes of the following order:--black, white, light yellow, white,
black, white; the legs of a black hackle; the wings from the feathers of
a blue pigeon’s wing: the body must be dressed thick.
9. _Red palmer._--The body of dark-red mohair, ribbed with gold twist,
and wrapped with a red cock’s hackle.
10. _Peacock palmer._--The body of a peacock’s harl, wrapped with a
dusky-red cock’s hackle.
11. _Kingdom fly._--Wings of a woodcock’s feather, the body of white
silk, striped with green, and the legs of a red cock’s hackle.
12. _White gnat._--The wings of a small white feather, the body of white
silk, and the legs of a red cock’s hackle.
13. _Blue dun._--The wings of a starling’s feather, the body of blue fur
from a water rat, mixed with a little lemon-colour mohair; the tail is
forked, and should be made of two fibres from the feather used for the
wing.
14. _Red ant._--The wings of a light starling’s feather, the body of
peacock’s harl made thick at the tail, and a ginger hackle for legs.
15. _Gold spinner._--Wings of a starling’s feather, body of orange silk,
ribbed with gold twist, and the legs of a red hackle.
16. _Great white moth._--Wings of a feather from the wing of a white
owl, the body of white cotton, and a white cock’s hackle wrapped round
the body.
17. _Governor._--Wings of a woodcock’s feather, the body of a peacock’s
harl, tied with orange silk.
18. _March brown._--Wings of the dark mottled feather from the tail of a
partridge, the body of fur from a hare’s ear, well mixed with a little
yellow worsted, and a grizzled cock’s hackle for legs.
19. _Stone fly._--Wings of a dusky-blue cock’s hackle, or a mottled
feather from a hen pheasant, the body of dark-brown and yellow camlet
mixed, and a grizzled hackle for legs; the wings should be flat.
20. _Black silver palmer._--The body of black ostrich harl, ribbed with
silver twist, and wrapped with black cock’s hackle.
21. _Willow fly._--The wings of dark grizzled cock’s hackle, the body of
blue squirrel’s fur, mixed with yellow mohair.
22. _Yellow palmer._--The wings of white hackle, dyed yellow, the body
of yellow silk.
23. _Black palmer._--The body of black ostrich’s harl, wrapped with a
black cock’s hackle.
24. _Black palmer ribbed with gold._--The body of peacock’s harl,
wrapped with a black cock’s hackle, and ribbed with gold twist.
25. _Marlow Buzz or Cock-a-Boundhu._--This is one of the most killing
flies known, and should never be off the line during the trout season.
The body of peacock’s harl, ribbed with gold twist, and a dark-red
cock’s hackle over all.
26. _The Grouse Hackle._--This is also a very killing fly, especially
late in the evening, during June, July, and August. Body of brown fur,
ribbed with gold twist, and a grouse hackle over all; hook No. 10.
The foregoing list comprises twenty-six of the most killing flies; and
the following are the months in which they will be found to kill best.
_February_, red cowdung fly, blue dun; _March_, brown; _April_, black
gnat, stone fly, gravel or spider fly, the green tail, brown, blue dun;
_May_, green drake, grey drake, oak fly, hazel fly, little iron blue and
yellow sally; _June_, hare’s ear, cock tail, whirling dun, marlow buzz,
bee fly, kingdom fly, white gnat, blue gnat, blue dun, governor, fern
fly; gold spinner; _July_, red ant, red spinner, yellow dun, coachman,
fern fly; _August_, whirling blue, red spinner, pale yellow dun;
_September_, willow fly, silver twisted blue, whirling blue.
It would of course be impossible, in a work of this description, to give
a list of all the artificial flies used by experienced fishermen, but
the above are a few of the most killing. For bleak, dace, roach, chub,
&c. a piece of a maggot, or a small piece of white leather, should be
placed at the end of the hook.
Having thus given the “order of flies,” natural and artificial, we may
imagine the young fly-fisher, with rod in hand, proportionate to his
strength and the breadth of the stream, ready to throw his fly; but let
his rod and running tackle be in good order, and the idea of the
coachman’s whip out of his mind. He is not to flog the water, but to
tickle it. The novice should teach himself to handle the line, by
beginning with it alone, (_i. e._ without flies or hook,) trying a short
length first, and lengthening it gradually. In using the rod, it should
be drawn vigorously back, though without a jerk, and thrown forward
again _when the line has reached its full extent behind_. Take care in
doing this, that the fly be not whipped off. When tolerably expert, put
on one fly, and try awhile with that, adopting two or three when able to
use them properly.
In fly-fishing keep as far from the water as possible, especially if
fishing for trout. Let only the flies touch the water, and keep moving
them gently and slowly on the surface. When a fish rises, let not a
moment elapse before you strike, and do it sharply.
When you have two flies on your line, you must try to throw your line so
that the bottom fly shall reach the water first; it must be done always
as lightly as possible, so that it may resemble a natural fly settling
upon the water. You must suffer the line to float gently down the
stream, at the same time working it towards you.
The best time for angling with the fly is when there is a gentle breeze
upon the water; south and west winds are to be preferred, when the water
has been disturbed by heavy rains and is just resuming its natural
colour, or when the day is dull and cloudy. The best time, morning and
evening. In cold weather the fish bite deeper, and you should then let
the fly sink a little. Take care to have the wind in your back, and the
sun in your face, if possible.
When you see a rise, throw your fly about half a yard above the fish’s
nose, and let it fall down with the stream; watch it narrowly, and
strike as the fish rises, giving him an “infinite little moment” to
taste. When you have hooked, play your fish carefully, keeping up his
head and running him down the stream, at the same time steering him
towards you. If you see a fish rise at a natural fly, throw your bait a
little before him, so that he may take it as “one of the number.”
To know what flies the fish are most likely to take, observe what
natural flies are about the water, or on the grass, trees, or bushes in
the vicinity of the river; and take that fly which is the most in
abundance, either natural or artificial at your discretion.
Such are a few practical particulars concerning angling and fly-fishing,
sufficient to enable any young angler to begin. For more abundant
information we refer him to Mr. Stoddart and Mr. Stewart, for
fly-fishing, Mr. Cholmondeley Pennell for pike-fishing, “Hewitt
Wheatley” for grayling fishing, and Mr. Francis Francis for the various
modes of bottom fishing.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
ARCHERY.
“And he was clad in coat and pode of grene;
A shefe of pecocke arrows bryght and shene
Under his belt he bare, ful threftely.
Well coude he dresse his tackle yomanly.
His arrows drouped not with feathers lowe,
And in his hande he bare a myghty bowe.”--CHAUCER.
The skill of the English in archery was always very great. Our ancestors
used the bow for a double purpose: in time of war, it was a far more
dreadful instrument of destruction than our present soldier’s musket;
while in the “piping times of peace,” it became an object of amusement.
The victories the English obtained over their enemies in times of war
were many, and what the world calls glorious; and they stand upon record
in our history, where the young reader may peruse them with interest and
advantage.
[Illustration: SAXON BOW AND ARROW.]
The Anglo-Saxons and the Danes were certainly well acquainted with the
use of the bow, which they used, not so much for war purposes, as in
the sports of the field. But it is well known that the Normans used the
bow as a military weapon, and under their government the practice of
archery was not only much improved, but generally diffused throughout
the kingdom. The long-bow was an instrument of Norman introduction, and
there seems good reason to believe that the arbalist, or cross-bow, was
used by these sturdy invaders.
THE LONG-BOW.
[Illustration: NORMAN-BOW.]
The use of the English long-bow arrived at the highest perfection in the
reign of Edward III.; and, notwithstanding the introduction of
fire-arms, continued for a long time after to be successfully
cultivated. Cressy, Poictiers, Agincourt, and many other victories, were
obtained by its use; and Sir John Fortescue writes, “That mighte of the
realme of Englande standyth upon her archers,”--as it will now upon our
riflemen or sharpshooters, when our army shall get the right kind of
gun.
THE CROSS-BOW.
[Illustration]
The cross-bow, or arbalist, was a popular weapon with the Etolians, and
was introduced into England in the thirteenth century. The arrows shot
from it were called “guorrels.” It was fastened upon a stock, and
discharged by means of a catch or trigger, which probably gave rise to
the lock on the modern musket. One historian informs us, that Richard
the First was wounded by an arrow from a bow of this kind; and also,
that the English cross-bow was used chiefly at sieges of fortified
places, and on ship-board in battles upon the sea. It was, however, used
in recreation, and acquired great reputation among the citizens of
London, who had “butts” in various places for the practice of this kind
of archery; as at Newington Butts, Brentford Butts, and other spots,
which still retain the name of Butts: and in the reign of Edward IV. an
act passed, which directed that butts should be in every township,
where the inhabitants should shoot on every feast-day, under a penalty
of a halfpenny when they shall omit the exercise.
[Illustration]
FEATS OF THE BOW.
Mr. Grose informs us that an archer could shoot six arrows in the time
necessary to charge and discharge a musket; and even in modern days, a
practised bowman has been known to shoot twelve arrows in a minute into
a circle not larger than the circumference of a man’s hat, at a distance
of forty yards. Of the power of the bow, and of the distance it will
carry, some remarkable anecdotes are told. Xenophon mentions an
Arcadian, whose head was shot through by a Carduchian archer. Stuart
mentions a random shot of a Turk, which he found to be 584 yards; and
Mr. Strutt saw the Turkish ambassador shoot 480 yards in the old
archery-ground in London. An old author speaks of a Turkish bow, the
arrow of which was known to pierce a steel target two inches thick. In
the journal of King Edward VI., it is mentioned that 100 archers of the
king’s guard shot at an inch board, and that some of the arrows passed
through this, and into another board behind it, although the wood was
extremely solid and firm. William de Brensia relates that a Welshman
having directed an arrow at a horse-soldier of his, who was clad in
armour, and had his leathern coat under it, the arrow, beside piercing
the man through the hip, struck also through the saddle, and mortally
wounded the horse on which he sat. Another Welsh soldier having shot an
arrow at one of his horsemen, who was covered with strong armour, the
shaft penetrated through his thigh, and fixed in the saddle; but what is
most remarkable is, that as the horseman drew his bridle aside, in order
to turn round, he received another arrow in the opposite thigh, which
passing through it, he was firmly fixed to the saddle on both sides. Mr.
Barrington, in the “Archæologiæ,” relates a tradition that one Leigh, an
attorney (it must have been a barrister), shot an arrow a mile in three
flights; and Carew, speaking of the Cornish archers two centuries back,
says that the butts for long shooting were placed 480 yards apart. Such,
my good friends, are the feats you may emulate with the bow.
LENGTH OF BOWS AND ARROWS, AND HOW USED IN ANCIENT TIMES.
[Illustration: NORMAN BOWMAN EQUIPPED FOR BATTLE.]
The length of the bow varied, but was usually the height of the bearer,
as the Act of Edward IV. commands every man to have a bow his own
height. The arrows were of different weights and sizes; the lighter
sort, for long ranges, about two feet three inches; while the heavy were
a cloth yard in length. The heads had various shapes, among which the
broad arrow extended in width to nearly four inches to the extremity of
the wings. Of these, 24 in a sheaf were put into a quiver, and, in
action, about 12 in the girdle. They were trimmed with three goose-quill
feathers each, and when the archers shot in volley, the quantity of
arrows in the air was compared by Froissart to a fall of snow. The
farthest range of arrows was estimated at eleven score yards. The
archers, in order of battle, generally carried, beside the bow, axe, and
target, a stake pointed at both ends. They formed in open ranks, in
files eight deep. When on the point of engaging, they advanced a few
paces beyond the intended line, and fixed their stakes, inclined towards
the enemy, in the ground. They then stepped backward, and from behind
these chevaux-de-frise dealt forth their destructive arrows; and when
the enemy were thrown into confusion, they sallied, and with small
battle-axes and swords completed the defeat.
MARKS FOR SHOOTING AT.
The marks usually shot at by the archers for pastime were “butts,”
“prickes,” and “rovers.” The “butt” was a level mark, made by placing a
target on a slope of a hill or bank of earth, and required a strong
arrow. The “pricke” was a “mark of compass,” but always of one distance,
and had some emblem on a pole for shooting at; and to this mark strong
swift arrows of one flight, with a middling size feather, were best
suited. The “rover” was a mark of uncertain length, and often an arrow
shot forth from a bow. Other marks were used, as the standard, the
target, hazel-wands, rose-garlands, and the popinjay, which was an
artificial parrot or peacock, or sometimes the common cock, set upon a
post or pole, as seen in the engraving.
[Illustration: SHOOTING AT THE POPINJAY.]
EQUIPMENT FOR ARCHERY.
Roger Ascham, who was well versed in the subject of archery, says that
it was necessary for the archer to have a bracer, or close sleeve, to
lace upon the left arm; and to this was added a shooting-glove for the
protection of the fingers. The bow was to be made of elm, ash, or yew;
the bow-string to be composed of good hemp, flax, or silk; the arrows
were to be made of oak, hornbeam, or birch. The feathers from a goose,
and especially of a grey goose, he thought preferable to any for the
pluming of an arrow.
ANCIENT DIRECTIONS FOR ARCHERY.
Ascham says: “First take care of a graceful attitude.” The archer should
stand fairly and upright with his body, his left foot at a convenient
distance from his right, holding the bow by its middle, with his left
arm stretched out, and with the first three fingers and the thumb of his
right hand on the lower part of the arrow affixed to the string of the
bow. The notch of the arrow to rest between the fore-finger and the
middle finger of the right hand. The arrow, in drawing the bow, was to
be elevated to the right ear. The shaft of the arrow below the feathers
to be rested on the knuckle of the fore-finger of the left hand. The
arrow was to be drawn to the head, and not held too long in that
situation, but neatly and smartly discharged. Among the requisites
necessary to constitute a good archer are, a clear sight steadily
directed to the mark,--a proper judgment of distances, to determine the
length of the ground. He ought also to know how to take advantage of a
side-wind, and to be well acquainted with what compass his arrows would
take in their flight. “Courage,” he says also, “is an indispensable
requisite; as he who shoots with the least trepidation is sure to shoot
badly.”
DECLINE OF ARCHERY.
Notwithstanding the great advantages of archery in ancient days, somehow
or other it began to decline even at the time of its zenith; so that,
from time to time, acts of parliament were made to compel the citizens
of London, and other towns, to practise it. Some of our monarchs made
sumptuous archery entertainments. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth, a
grand shooting-match was held in London of all the archers in the
surrounding districts; and these meeting at the appointed time, with
their different companies, proceeded in a pompous march from Merchant
Tailors’ Hall, numbering 3,000 archers, sumptuously apparelled, every
man having a long-bow and four arrows; 940 of them had gold chains about
their necks. This splendid company was attended by 4,000 whifflers and
bellmen. The queen met them in Smithfield, and presided at their
sports. But still the art continued to decline, and, with the increase
of other warlike weapons, became at last almost extinct. Within these
few years, however, it has again become a somewhat favourite exercise,
near London, and in various parts of the country. In Scotland, the
“Royal Company of Archers”--the Queen’s body-guard for
Scotland--comprises many of the Scottish nobility, and King George IV.
recognised it. It now comprises about 500 members, who meet weekly, and
at certain seasons contend for several annual prizes.
Convinced as we are that the practice of archery possesses, in point of
health, all the advantages of field sports, without their cruelty to
animals, and demoralizing oppression to our fellow-creatures, we
strongly recommend it to our juvenile friends. It is an exercise adapted
to every age and every degree of strength; and especially adapted to
young ladies, whose sedentary occupations,--rendered still more
injurious by the pestiferous Berlin wool,--disposes them to disease and
consumption. I do not wish to sing the praises of the art to their full
extent, but I wish to see it universally cultivated, and should hail
with pleasure the time when it can be again said, as with Statius,
“Pudor est nescere sagittas.”
MODERN ARCHERY.
Proceeding now to the modern practice of the art, we must first begin
with
THE BOW.
The Bow may be made of the yew-tree, laburnum, thorn, or acacia, and is
generally formed of two pieces of wood joined together, the back piece
being of a different wood to the front, and the grain reversed. It is of
great importance to secure a good bow. We would not, therefore, advise
the young archer to make one, but to buy one at a good archery shop,
where they may be had at all prices. Upon making a purchase, he should
examine the bow well, to observe whether it be well set in all its
parts, of an elegant cut or shape, and free from flaws, knots, or
cracks. He should look well at the ends, and to those points on which
the bow-string is fixed, which ought to be tipped with horn. The proper
length of a bow for a youth is about five feet. The flat or outward part
of a bow is called its back, and the inward part its belly; and in
stringing it the young archer should be particularly careful to keep the
belly inwards, or the bow will break.
THE STRING.
The string of the bow should be made of hemp, and whipped with sewing
silk at that part of it which receives the arrow, marked C in the
annexed plan. The thickness of the string should depend upon the length
of the bow, and should never be too thin for its powers, as the
snapping of a string sometimes causes the snapping of the bow. The young
archer should never use a string in the least out of order, and should
avoid cat-gut strings especially. A bow five feet long, when bent,
should have a string about five inches from the centre. This will be a
guide in stringing the bow. The young archer should take great pride in
the care of his bow, especially of the string, and look carefully, after
every day’s shooting, at the “whipping” of the string, and at the
wearing points, repairing the least defect. He ought also to place his
bow in an oil-skin case, lined with baize; and when put away for the
season it should be well rubbed with oil, and polished. He should also
have always two or three spare strings in readiness, in case the one in
use may fly.
[Illustration]
STRINGING THE BOW.
The young archer must be very careful in performing this feat, or he
will fail in the attempt; to do so safely, he must take the bow in his
right hand by the handle, the flat part towards him; then let his arm
rest against his side, then put the lower end of the bow against the
inside of the right foot, bring his left foot forward, and place the
centre of the left wrist on the upper level of the bow below the loop of
the string, the fore-finger knuckle on one edge of the bow, and the top
of the thumb upon the other; then up with the bow and loop it. This
feat, however, can be best learned by seeing another expert person
perform it. In unstringing the bow, the short horn should be placed on
the ground against the right foot, the middle of the bow grasped in the
right hand, and the left wrist placed on the upper horn, so that the
fore-finger may unloop the string when the bow is brought down, as in
the manner of stringing it.
THE ARROWS.
[Illustration]
Arrows are generally made of some white wood, such as ash, deal, or the
wood of the orbele poplar, and are sometimes varnished. They are both
blunt and sharp. The sharp ones are for target shooting, the blunt ones
principally for roving; they also vary as regards length, some being
long, and some short. In purchasing them, the principal thing to be
attended to is, that they are perfectly straight, well made, and that
the plumes are securely fitted. There should be three on each arrow;
one, which is of a darker colour than the rest, is called the cock
plume, and in shooting should be placed uppermost. The length and weight
of the arrows should be in proportion to the size of the bow. The nicks
of arrows should be cased with horn, and they should fit the string
exactly.
THE QUIVER.
[Illustration]
The quiver is used to contain the arrows, and is usually made of wood,
or tin, or leather, those made of the latter material being the most
serviceable and convenient to wear. It should be long enough to contain
the arrows up to the feather, without bruising or crushing the plumes,
which ought always to be kept perfectly straight and unruffled. The
quiver in shooting is not carried, but the arrows are placed in a pouch
attached to the belt.
[Illustration: TASSEL.]
[Illustration: BRACE.]
THE TASSEL, BRACE, BELT AND POUCH.
_The Tassel_ is usually made of green worsted, and is used by the archer
for the purpose of cleansing the arrow from dirt after being taken from
the ground. It is usually suspended on the left side of the archer.
[Illustration: THE BELT.]
_The Brace_ is of leather, and is buckled on the arm to save it from
being hurt by the string upon the discharge of the arrow. It ought to
be very smooth on its surface, so as to offer no impediment to the
bow-string.
_The Belt_ is made of leather, and is buckled round the waist. It has
fastened to it a _pouch_, for the temporary reception of the arrows in
shooting.
SHOOTING GLOVE, AND GREASE POT.
_The Shooting Glove_ is made of cow-hide, or horse ball leather. It has
places or stalls for three fingers only, with a wrist strap to fasten it
on. Its use is to protect the fingers from the action of the string, and
in selecting it the young archer should be careful that the finger
stalls are neither too long nor too short for the hand.
[Illustration: THE GLOVE.]
[Illustration: THE GREASE POT.]
_The Grease Box_ hangs usually by the side of the tassel, and contains a
small portion of grease composed of suet and bees-wax well compounded.
This is used for rubbing on the fingers of the shooting glove, and is
indispensable to the archer.
THE TARGET.
Targets are made with plaited straw bands, wound round a centre, and
sewn together. Over this body is placed a facing of canvass, the ground
of which is painted white; upon the white are painted four circles, and
a gold centre called the bull’s eye. The first circle close to the eye
is red; the next white, called the inner white; the third black; and the
fourth white, called the outer white; while the outside verge, called
the petticoat of the target, is painted green.
[Illustration]
A certain value in shooting is given to each circle of the target, which
is thus computed: Outer white 1; Black 3; Inner white 5; Red 7, and the
Gold Eye 9.
There are usually two targets in an archery field, placed at certain
distances from each other, which shortens the labour of walking; for if
one target only be used, a great deal of time is lost in going from the
shooting mark to the target to fetch the arrows, and in returning to the
spot again.
The prizes usually shot for in archery matches are gold and silver
medals, silver cups, silver arrows, silver gilt bugles, prize bows and
arrows. There are generally two prizes given; the first for the shots
nearest the gold centre, the second for the number of shots put into the
target, according to their value.
A person is usually appointed to register the shots at the targets, who
has a card similar to the form given below, by which he takes an account
of the hits as they are made.
+=======+======+=====+=======+=======+=======+=======+=======++
| NAMES | GOLD | RED | INNER | BLACK | OUTER | TOTAL | VALUE ||
| | | | WHITE | | WHITE | | ||
+-------+------+-----+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------++
|_Smith_| 2 | 3 | 7 | 3 | 11 | 26 | 100 ||
|_Jones_| 1 | 6 | 5 | 8 | 7 | 27 | 107 ||
|_Brown_| 3 | 4 | 9 | 7 | 18 | 41 | 139 ||
+-------+------+-----+-------+-------+-------+-------+-------++
The markings are usually made by the marker with a pin, holes being less
liable to obliteration than pencil marks.
BUTTS.
Are usually made of pieces of turf piled one upon another, and laid one
upon the other in the following shape. They are usually about six feet
high and four feet broad at the face, upon which a circular piece of
thin white pasteboard, about six inches in diameter, is affixed with
pegs. Butts are generally placed in the field in sets of four, so as not
to stand in the way of each other. And when shot at, the arrows placed
in the pasteboard mark are alone reckoned, and those who here place the
greatest number of shots are the winners of the prize.
[Illustration]
HOW TO DRAW THE BOW.
The ancient directions for drawing the bow, or rather the arrow, have
been already given. The archer having placed himself opposite to the
target, with his face a little inclined to the right, should swing
himself slightly round, so that his eye and the target are in an exact
line. He should stand quite upright, his left foot slightly in advance.
Holding the bow horizontally in his left hand, he should draw an arrow
from his pouch and carry it under the string and over the left side of
the bow. The fore-finger of the left hand now holds the arrow secure on
the wooden part of the bow at its centre, while the right hand fixes the
nick of the arrow on the string, where it is held fast between the first
and second fingers, the cock feather being uppermost. The fore-finger of
the left hand may now be removed from the arrow, and the centre of the
bow grasped tightly. The bow is now raised gradually by the left hand,
at the same time that the string is pulled by the right; and when the
arrow is drawn about two-thirds of its length, the neck of it should be
brought close to the right ear and the aim should be taken. The aim
should be taken quickly, and the string loosened freely from the fingers
with a peculiar touch, which no books can teach, and which nothing but
experience and skill can give. In long shots the right hand must be
lowered, and the arrow sent so as to form a greater curve in its flight.
The archer should look at his _mark_, not at his shaft, and when he has
shot should retreat to the leftward, and take his position behind the
person with whom he is shooting.
[Illustration: POSITION IN SHOOTING.]
FLIGHT SHOOTING.
This is principally engaged in for the purpose of ascertaining the
greatest distance to which the arrows can be sent by the respective
shooters. It requires no skill in aiming, but much care in drawing the
arrow, as nothing is more likely to fracture the bow than flight
shooting. The archer who sends his arrows to the greatest distance is
the winner.
CLOUT SHOOTING.
In clout shooting the target is only a small piece of white pasteboard
attached to a stick about five feet from the ground, and placed at a
distance of from 120 to 150 yards. In it seven makes the game, and all
arrows that fall within two bows’ length of the foot of the stick are
marked in counting.
ROVING.
So called from the shooters roving from place to place, over field,
heath, moor, common, finding their marks in trees, posts, bushes, &c.
The distances constantly varying, give to young archers a great deal of
practice; besides which, the variety of the scenery, and the various
incidents that occur in a day’s roving, are often highly interesting and
exciting. By roving the eye gets a habit of measuring distances, and the
hand and arm strength for the bow. Blunt-headed arrows are the best for
roving, of which about a dozen ought to be carried by each archer. Sharp
arrows would imbed themselves too deeply in trees to be easily
extracted. In a roving party, arrows that reach within five bows’ length
of the mark tell, and those which are nearest cut the others out. Each
archer measures with his own bow. The number of the game is often nine,
but generally twelve.
GENERAL HINTS FOR ARCHERS.
1. In commencing archery never begin with a stiff bow, but select one
adapted to your strength, and change this for a stronger from time to
time.
2. Never shoot with another person’s bow.
3. Never put an arrow in the string when any one stands between you and
the target, or you may shoot out an eye.
4. Never talk, jibe, or jest at the time of shooting.
5. Always study to take a graceful attitude in shooting, or in moving
about the field.
6. Never draw a bow near another person; as, should it snap, the danger
will be greater to him than yourself.
7. Never let your bow-string get untwisted or ravelled by neglect.
8. Never exhibit impatience at the tardy efforts of your compeers, or
chagrin at your own failures.
9. Never shoot alone if you can help it, as it leads to negligence and
indifference.
[Illustration]
BOXING.
We will first give briefly some of the reasons why we have determined to
mention this branch of the manly exercises. Firstly, we do so because we
have a great personal esteem for the art, though none can be more
sternly opposed to its abuse. Secondly, because it affords one of the
finest exercises in the world, employing every limb and every muscle in
the body, giving at the same time readiness of hand and quickness of
eye, while it tests and improves the patience and endurance. And,
thirdly, because every one likes to know how to use the weapons which
Nature has given him, and will contrive to acquire the desired knowledge
whenever he can find an opportunity. All Englishmen, and therefore all
English boys, are proud of their natural weapon, and compare it with the
knife, the loaded stick, the knuckleduster, and the pistol of other
nations. The principle of fair play and justice is strongly developed in
an English breast, and in nothing is the principle so thoroughly carried
out as in boxing. No unfair advantage is allowed to either side, no
striking upon the vital parts of the body is permitted, and the use of
the foot, tooth, or nail is forbidden under the severest penalties. Even
in the very prize ring, where men are trained for the express purpose of
hitting each other with the utmost force of which human arms are
capable, there is little harm done, and in a few days both combatants
look as if nothing had happened to them. It is not so even in a
wrestling county, or in some few parts of our own land where men fight
like brute beasts, and use their best endeavours to maim or blind their
adversaries for life. A well-known American writer has expressed, in his
own humorous language, the astonishment which he felt at witnessing a
short “turn up” at an English cattle-fair. The grave propriety of the
affair, and the admirable order in which it was conducted, struck him
with profound admiration, as contrasted with the “inglorious and
inevitable Yankee _clinches_, followed by a general _mêlée_,” which in
popular language is termed a “free fight,” and in which every one
attacks every one else with any weapons and in any manner.
Before proceeding to our genuine English Boxing, we must just mention
the French “_savate_,” of which we have heard so much of late. We have
seen it practised and taught in the _salles d’armes_, and for it, as a
system for boxing, we have the profoundest contempt; as also for that
execrable French custom of striking upwards with the knee when at close
quarters--an atrocity for which we should like to see a man soundly
horsewhipped on the spot.
Now, the _savate_ simply consists in this. You make a feint, as if to
strike in the usual manner, and then, instead of striking with the fist,
you kick with the foot. Or, when your antagonist is pressing you
sharply, you send the point of your toe into his chest, and stop him.
Or, you retreat from him, suddenly turn round, and kick at him
backwards--of course being quite unable to tell where the blow will
alight, and possibly inflicting an injury the effects of which will be
felt for life.
Those who are practised in this manœuvre will employ it with wonderful
skill. They will hit you on the nose or on the forehead without the
least apparent effort, and with the greatest certainty; they will fling
you back from your advance with stunning force, and the effect of the
lash-out is terrific. Indeed, if the object of boxing be to use all
means of offence and defence, the _savate_ is indispensable.
Having many opportunities of visiting several schools of arms, we
carefully considered this system, which was then totally unknown to us;
and after watching it well for some time, during our residence in Paris,
we came to the conclusion that the _savate_ is useful enough in case you
are attacked by ruffianly fellows, whom you must needs maim, lest they
should maim you; and that by the combined use of the _savate_ and a
stick, or even the fist, a man may knock over a couple of assailants
simultaneously and effectually.
And if a Frenchman who uses the _savate_ were opposed to an Englishman
who never heard of it, the probability is that the former would win,
because the latter would lay himself open to a mode of attack which he
had always been taught to consider unfair and unmanly. But we do not
believe that it would be of the slightest value against any one who knew
that his antagonist would employ it, and think that the person
attempting to use it would find himself hurled to the ground, and
probably discover that his leg was violently sprained. So much for the
_savate_.
It is not easy to teach any branch of the science of arms in a book, and
boxing is perhaps as difficult to be learned from books as fencing.
Still, something can be done even through the medium of ink and paper;
and the reader can, at all events, learn to avoid the errors to which a
total novice is subject.
The first and most important point is the position in which the boxer
stands.
This is not very dissimilar to that of a left-handed fencer, except that
the right arm, instead of being raised, is brought across the body, so
that it defends the pit of the stomach (technically called the “mark”),
and only leaves a very small portion of the chest open to a blow. The
left arm is rather higher than if it held a foil, and the elbow is kept
well to the side. This latter point is most important, as it is
impossible to hit straight from the shoulder if the elbow should project
from the side.
The weight of the body rests mostly on the right leg, so that the boxer
can step backwards or forwards, while still keeping his side to the
adversary. If you stand opposite a good sparrer in boxing attitude, you
will be surprised to find how well guarded he is, and how difficult it
is to hit him, even if he neither moves nor attempts to return the blow.
His left hand keeps you well away from him, and his right is ready
either to stop or throw off your blow.
[Illustration]
It will be seen from the foregoing description, as well as by reference
to the illustration, that a right-handed boxer stands with his left side
towards the opponent, uses his left hand for the chief part of the
hitting, and reserves the right for stopping, parrying, or returning
blows when at close quarters, or what is technically called a “rally.”
Practise this attitude before a glass. You will soon see if you lay
yourself open, and will learn to stand in a correct position. Advance
and retreat also before the glass, and so make sure that you do not
expose some weak point while so doing. I met a French gentleman who had
made himself really a creditable boxer, merely by practising before his
mirror; and after a few days of practical work with the gloves he became
quite a formidable antagonist.
[Illustration]
Another important point is the making up of the fist--not such a simple
matter as it seems. The fingers must be clenched tightly, and the thumb
doubled down outside them, so that when presented towards your
antagonist he can see no part of it projecting over the fingers. This
can also be practised at the glass. If the hand be rightly held, it will
be seen that the knuckles form a kind of arch, of which the middle
knuckle is the keystone. It is with this knuckle that you strike; and be
sure to clench the hand with all your power as you deliver the stroke;
otherwise you will run a sad risk of dislocating either a finger or a
thumb.
The position of the head is of no small importance. On no account bear
forwards, as is the way of muffs, but keep it lightly thrown back, and
never take your eye off that of your opponent. Greenhorns always lower
the head, and rush at their antagonist with their arms flying about like
the sails of a windmill; and the natural consequence is, that their
opponent quickly steps aside, lets them pass, and knocks them neatly
over by a blow on the temple, which they cannot possibly see or guard.
Having got our attitude and doubled our fist, we now learn to strike.
Deliver your blow straight and from the shoulder, not merely with the
arm. Put all your body into the stroke, and aid it with the spring of
the right foot against the ground. Thus you add to the blow the force of
a kick, and the stroke comes with such terrific force that I have seen a
tall man lifted fairly off the ground and deposited on his back by a
straight shoulder-hit, even though the two were merely sparring with the
gloves.
Never draw back your hand before you strike, as that tells your opponent
what you are contemplating. Your stroke should flash out like the
lightning, without warning and straight to the mark. You cannot strike
too rapidly, and you cannot recover yourself too quickly. Practise this
repeatedly before a glass, and note the length of your reach, for in a
knowledge of distance lies half the art of boxing. As a general rule, if
you can get your left toe on a level with your antagonist’s heel, you
have your proper distance. This rule, however, is necessarily variable,
as in the case of the contest to which allusion has just been made,
where one party could reach a full foot beyond the other, and had, in
consequence, the advantage of twelve inches of space at his disposal.
Now that we have practised the left hand and arm, let us turn to the
right. Except when striking, you need not trouble yourself to close the
fist very tightly, but may let the hand lie in an easy and unconstrained
position across the chest, ready for use in any direction that may be
required.
The chief use of the right hand and arm are for parrying and stopping,
which are thus achieved:--
If your opponent delivers a blow at the face or upper part of the chest,
and you find yourself in a good position, do not retreat from it, but
fling your right arm sharply outwards and upwards, catching the
opponent’s arm by the wrist, and throwing it out of the direction in
which it was aimed. The effect of the parry is very powerful, as it
mostly lays open the antagonist’s head, and gives opportunity for a
smart return blow with the left hand; it is then near the opponent’s
head, and has only a short distance to traverse. This return blow is
technically called the “counter,” and is usually very effective, as it
takes effect just at the moment when the antagonist is expecting his
own blow to strike, and turns the tables on him after a rather
discouraging fashion.