CHAPTER VI.

Kiáma — Visit to the King — Wooden Figures — Yarro’s Hut — His objection

to the former route to Wowow being adopted by the Travellers — Instance

of Native Friendship — Mohammedan Priests — their Character — Tradition

of the Falátahs — Ceremonies of the Bebun Sálah — Celebration of the

Festival — Native Horse-racing — The King’s Sons — Poisonous Lizard —

Superstition of the Natives — Comparison between the Natives of Borgoo

and Yarriba — Traits of Character — Falátahs — Law relating to them.

_Saturday, May 29th._—Tired with yesterday’s journey, we lay on our mats

rather later than usual, and before we had arisen, the king’s messengers

and others entered our hut to give us the salutations of the morning. I

returned Yarro’s compliment by calling to see him at his own house,

while my brother remained at home to take care of the goods. The natives

of the country having a very indifferent reputation for honesty, compels

us to keep a watchful eye over all their actions. A number of Mallams

from Hàussa paid us a visit about the middle of the day; but a body of

more ignorant Mohammedans, I should suppose, can nowhere be found, for

not one of them, even to their chief, who has a youthful appearance,

understands a word of Arabic.

Just before sunset, my brother selected a present, consisting of the

following articles, for the king, viz., six yards of red cloth, a

quantity of printed cottons, a pair of silver bracelets, a looking-

glass, two pairs of scissors, a knife, two combs, and a tobacco-pipe.

The goods having been properly secured, we repaired with this present to

the king, who received it with much apparent satisfaction.

Yarro professes the Mohammedan faith, yet it is easy to perceive the

very slender acquaintance he has obtained of the precepts of the Koran,

by the confidence which he still places in the religion of his fathers,

in placing fetíshes to guard the entrance of his houses, and adorn their

half naked walls. In one of the huts we observed a stool of very curious

workmanship. The form of it is nearly square; the two principal sides

are each supported by four little wooden figures of men; and another of

large dimensions, seated on a clumsy representation of a hippopotamus,

is placed between them. These images were subsequently presented to us

by Yarro, and we learnt that the natives, before undertaking any water

excursion, applied for protection from the hippopotami and other dangers

of the river to the principal figure, which is represented as mounted on

one of those creatures. This important personage is attended by his

musicians, and guarded by soldiers, some armed with muskets, and others

with bows and arrows, who formed the legs of the stool. In the annexed

sketch, which is about one-seventh the size of the original, he has been

placed on the top of the stool, that the view of him might not be

interrupted.

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

In an inner apartment we discovered Yarro sitting alone on buffalo

hides; and we were desired to place ourselves near him. The walls of

this apartment were adorned with very good prints of our most gracious

sovereign George the Fourth, his late royal brother the Duke of York,

Lord Nelson, the Duke of Wellington on horseback, together with an

officer in the Light Dragoons, in company with a smartly dressed and

happy-looking English lady. Opposite to them were hung horse

accoutrements; and on each side were dirty scraps of paper containing

select sentences from the Koran. On the floor lay muskets, several

handsomely ornamented lances, and other weapons, all confusedly heaped

together by the side of a large granite stone used for pounding pepper.

These were the most striking objects we observed in the king’s hut;

adjoining which were others, through whose diminutive doors Yarro’s

wives were straining their eyes to catch a glimpse of our persons.

When we spoke of proceeding to Yàoorie by way of Wowow and Boossà, the

king objected to our visiting the former state under any consideration,

alleging that three of the slaves who carried the goods for Captain

Clapperton had never returned to him again, but had remained at Wowow,

where they were protected by the governor Mohammed; and that if he

should send others with us to that place, they might do the same. He

therefore promises to send us to Boossà in four days’ time by another

road. Independently of the above consideration, the king is highly

incensed against the ruler of Wowow for harsh treatment of the widow

Zuma, who is his friend and relative, and who has lately fled to Boossà

for the purpose of claiming the protection of the king of that country.

It is said that Yarro’s father, the late king of Kiáma, during his

lifetime, enjoyed the friendship of an Arab from the desert, which was

returned with equal warmth and sincerity. A similarity of dispositions

and pursuits produced a mutual interchange of kind actions; their

friendship became so great, that the king was never happy except when in

the Arab’s company; and as a proof of his esteem and confidence, he gave

him his favourite daughter in marriage. The fruit of this alliance is

the restless widow Zuma, and hence her relationship to the present

monarch of Kiáma. To return to his father and the Arab: their friendship

lasted until the death of the latter. The king, however, was

inconsolable for his loss, and looked around him in vain for some one to

supply the place of his friend; but the ardour of his affections was too

strong, and led by the hope of following his friend to another world, he

committed suicide. This is the most affecting instance of genuine

friendship, and indeed the only one, that has come to our hearing since

we have been in the country. Yarro is much attached to the widow Zuma;

and she would have fled hither, instead of going to Boossà, if her

intentions had not been suspected, and her actions narrowly watched by

the ruler of Wowow.

_Sunday, May 30th._—Unwilling as we always are to break the proper

observance of the Sabbath, we were nevertheless compelled this forenoon

to submit to the mortification of cleaning and polishing a sword and

pistol, which were sent us for that purpose by the king against the

approaching Mahommedan festival. Yarro shortly afterwards sent us a

turkey, and one of his women presented us with a roasted badger, a

quantity of yams, &c., for the use of one of our people. This evening

the king’s wives unanimously bestowed a severe reprimand on their

husband for neglecting to offer them a portion of a bottle of rum which

we gave him yesterday; and they scolded so lustily, that the noise was

heard outside the wall surrounding their huts, which led us to make the

discovery. To appease the indignation of these ladies, and to reconcile

them to their loss, I presented them with a few beads and some other

trifles; but we much doubt their efficacy.

_Monday, May 31st._—It is supposed that the ruler of Wowow will make war

on this state as soon as he shall be made acquainted with the fact of

our being in Borgoo without having visited him. Although it is within

the dominions of the King of Boossà, who is acknowledged to be the

greatest of the sovereigns of Borgoo, Wowow is reported to have lately

received a body of Nouffie horse soldiers, consisting of eight hundred

men, which has rendered its chief more powerful than either of his

neighbours. These soldiers are the remnant of the army of _Ederesa_ (the

_Edrisi_ of Captain Clapperton), who is the rightful heir to the throne

of Nouffie: they deserted him in his misfortunes, and sought a refuge in

Wowow from the fury of their successful countrymen, leaving their leader

to his fate. Shortly after my return to England, it is reported that

_Magīa_, who is a younger son of the late king of Nouffie, was

reinforced by soldiers from Soccatoo; that he took immediate advantage

of the panic into which this intelligence had thrown his brother, by

attacking and routing his army, and expelling both him and them from

their native country. Ederesa was for some time after a wanderer; but at

length, he is said to have found an asylum with one of the chiefs of a

state near the kingdom of Benin, where he now resides in tranquillity

and retirement.

We receive visits almost every hour of the day from a number of

Mohammedan Mallams residing at Kiáma, as well as from those merchants

who formed part of the _fatàkie_ that accompanied us through the forest

from Keeshee. The former sent two young boys this afternoon to pray for

us, in the expectation we believe of obtaining something more

substantial than thanks for the good that might result to us from their

charitable remembrance of the frailty of our nature. The boys dropped on

their knees, and recited the lesson that they had been taught without

committing a blunder; but a few needles was the only recompense we

thought proper to make them, so that it is not likely their masters will

desire any more prayers to be offered at the shrine of their Prophet for

Christians so illiberal and irreligious. Of all the vices of which these

Mohammedan priests are guilty (and by all accounts they are not a few),

slander and defamation of character appear to be by far the most

general. Never do we hear a Mallam speak of his neighbours in terms of

common respect. By his account they are all the vilest creatures under

the sun, not one escaping the lash of his censure. ‘Avoid that man,’

said a complacent and comfortable-looking old Mahommedan last night,

pointing to one of his companions as he quitted the hut, (he had just

blessed him in the name of Alla,) ‘for, believe me, he will take every

opportunity of deceiving you; and if you go so far as to trust him with

any of your property, he will cheat you of every cowrie.’ The venerable

speaker had a quantity of gilt buttons, nearly new, in his possession,

which we had given him to sell, for we are frequently obliged to make

such shifts for a meal, and when his invective was finished, he arose to

take his leave: but the self-righteous priest had neglected, in the

hurry of discourse, to secure a few buttons which he had purloined, for

as he stood up they dropped from the folds of his garment on the floor.

The man’s confusion was immediately apparent, but we did not wish to

punish him further by increasing his shame, and we suffered him to go

about his business in the belief that the circumstance had wholly

escaped our observation. Gilt buttons fetch a high price here (from two

to three hundred cowries each); and as we have a great quantity of them,

it is likely that from henceforth they will be of infinite service to

us. Women use buttons to ornament their necks, fingers, and wrists; and

they imagine that the brightest of them are made of gold.

A man arrived at the king’s house this evening with the information that

_Doncassòn_, the ex-king of Hàussa, has recently retaken no less than

twelve towns in that empire from the Falátahs, in which he was greatly

assisted by the sheik of Bornou. The Falátahs have a tradition that when

Danfodio (Bello’s father, and the first king of Soccatoo) was a simple

shepherd, he made a vow to the great author of evil, that if he would

assist him in subjugating the kingdom of Hàussa, he would be his slave

for ever after. Danfodio’s request, they say, was complied with on his

own conditions, but for no longer than thirty years, after which the

aborigines of the country were to regain their liberty, and re-establish

their ancient laws and institutions. The term is now nearly expired, and

the Falàtahs begin already, say the Hàussa men, to tremble with

apprehensions at the prospect of this tradition being realized.

_Tuesday, June 1st._—This is the eve of the ‘Bebun Sàlah,’ or ‘Great

Prayer Day,’ and is generally employed by the Mussulmen in Kiáma in

making preparations for a festival which will commence to-morrow, and be

continued till the evening of the next day. Every one here, who

possesses the means, is obliged to slaughter either a bullock or sheep

on the anniversary of this day; and those who may not have money

sufficient to procure a whole bullock or sheep, are compelled to

purchase a portion of the latter, at least, for the purpose of showing

proper respect and reverence for the ‘Bebun Sàlah.’ The Mohammedan

Mallams, on this occasion, make a practice of slaughtering the sheep

which may have been their companion in their peregrinations during the

past year, and as soon as the holidays are over, they procure another to

supply its place, and, at the return of the festival, to undergo a

similar fate. The company of one of these animals is preferred by the

natives to that of a dog.

At sunrise to-morrow, all the Mussulmen in Kiáma, with the king at their

head, will repair to a convenient spot, about a mile on the road to

Wowow, for the purpose of publicly performing their devotions. Presently

after returning from thence, horse-racing and other sports will be

indulged in by all classes of the inhabitants, who are already filled

with joy at the bare anticipation of the diversions.

A company of eight or ten drummers awoke us this morning by the dismal

noise of their drums, and by the exclamation of—‘_Turawa awazhie!_’

signifying, ‘White men! we wish you fortune;’ which was repeated in a

high, shrill tone every minute.

Last night Kiáma was visited by a thunder-storm, which continued with

dreadful violence for many hours; and the torrents of rain which fell

threatened to overwhelm us in our hut. Before we were aware of it, the

water had rushed in at the door, and had completely soaked our mats and

bed-clothes, setting every light article in the room afloat. After much

trouble, we succeeded in draining it off, and preventing its further

ingress, when we lit a large fire in the centre of the hut, and laid

ourselves down by the side of it to sleep. It also rained heavily again

this morning; and to all appearances, the wet season has at length

fairly set in. If this be the case, it will be next to impossible to

travel much farther; and if we be fortunate enough to reach Yàoorie, we

shall be obliged to remain there some time till the roads shall have

become sufficiently hard and dry for our future progress. We have only

to hope that the rains may not be so incessant at their commencement, as

to render the path to Yàoorie impassable.

_Wednesday, June 2nd._—The threatening appearance of the weather

prevented the Mohammedans from repairing to the spot which they had

selected for the purposes of devotion, so early in the morning as they

could have wished; but the clouds having dispersed, they had all

assembled there between the hours of nine and ten. The worshippers

arranged themselves in six lines or rows, the women forming the last,

and sat down on as many ridges of earth, which had apparently been

thrown up for the purpose. The chief Mallam no sooner began a prayer,

than the talking and noise of the multitude immediately ceased, and the

deepest attention seemed to be paid by every one, though the substance

of what he said could only be guessed at, because it was in Arabic,

which none of them understand. The ceremony much resembled that which

was performed at Badágry; and the forms which are generally practised, I

believe, on all public religious meetings in Mohammedan countries, such

as ablution, prostration, &c., were observed on this occasion. The king,

however, did not rise, as he should have done, when the worshippers

stood up, but satisfied himself by uttering the name of Alla, and by

simple prostration only. When the usual form of prayer had been gone

through, the head Mallam placed himself on a hillock, and for about five

minutes read to the people a few loose pages of the Koran, which he held

in his hand. While thus engaged, two priests of inferior order knelt

beside him to hold the hem of his tobe, and a third, in the same

position, held the skirts from behind. After he had finished reading,

the priest descended from the hillock, and, with the help of his

assistants, slaughtered a sheep which had been bound and brought to him

for sacrifice. The blood of the animal was caught in a calabash; and the

king and the more devoted of his subjects washed their hands in it, and

sprinkled some of it on the ground. This conclusion of the ceremony was

announced by the discharge of a few old muskets; and with drums beating

and fifes playing, the people returned to their respective homes. Most

of them were smartly dressed in all the finery they could procure. About

a hundred of the men rode on horseback, with lances and other weapons in

their hands, which, with the gay trappings of their horses, gave them a

respectable appearance.

In the afternoon, all the inhabitants of the town, and many from the

little villages in its neighbourhood, assembled to witness the horse-

racing, which takes place always on the anniversary of the ‘Bebun

Sàlah,’ and to which every one had been looking forward with impatience.

Previous to its commencement, the king, with his principal attendants,

rode slowly round the town, more for the purpose of receiving the

admiration and plaudits of his people than to observe where distress

more particularly prevailed, which was his avowed intention. A hint from

the chief induced us to attend the course with our pistols, to salute

him as he rode by; and as we felt a strong inclination to witness the

amusements of the day, we were there rather sooner than was necessary,

which afforded us, however, a fairer opportunity of observing the

various groups of people which were flocking to the scene of amusement.

The race-course was bounded on the north by low granite hills, on the

south by a forest; and on the east and west by tall shady trees, among

which were habitations of the people. Under the shadow of these

magnificent trees the spectators were assembled, and testified their

happiness by their noisy mirth and animated gestures. When we arrived,

the king had not made his appearance on the course; but his absence was

fully compensated by the pleasure we derived from watching the anxious

and animated countenances of the multitude, and in passing our opinions

on the taste of the women in the choice and adjustment of their fanciful

and many-coloured dresses. The chief’s wives and younger children sat

near us in a group by themselves; and were distinguished from their

companions by their superior dress. Manchester cloths of inferior

quality, but of the most showy patterns, and dresses made of common

English bed-furniture, were fastened round the waist of several sooty

maidens, who, for the sake of fluttering a short hour in the gaze of

their countrymen, had sacrificed in clothes the earnings of a

twelvemonth’s labour. All the women had ornamented their necks with

strings of beads, and their wrists with bracelets of various patterns,

some made of glass beads, some of brass, others of copper; and some

again of a mixture of both metals: their ancles also were adorned with

different sorts of rings, of neat workmanship.

The distant sound of drums gave notice of the king’s approach, and every

eye was immediately directed to the quarter from whence he was expected.

The cavalcade shortly appeared, and four horsemen first drew up in front

of the chief’s house, which was near the centre of the course, and close

to the spot where his wives and children and ourselves were sitting.

Several men bearing on their heads an immense quantity of arrows in huge

quivers of leopard’s skin came next, followed by two persons who, by

their extraordinary antics and gestures, we concluded to be buffoons.

These two last were employed in throwing sticks into the air as they

went on, and adroitly catching them in falling, besides performing many

whimsical and ridiculous feats. Behind these, and immediately preceding

the king, a group of little boys, nearly naked, came dancing merrily

along, flourishing cows’ tails over their heads in all directions. The

king rode onwards, followed by a number of fine-looking men, on handsome

steeds; and the motley cavalcade all drew up in front of his house,

where they awaited his further orders without dismounting. This we

thought was the proper time to give the first salute, so we accordingly

fired three rounds; and our example was immediately followed by two

soldiers, with muskets which were made at least a century and a half

ago.

Preparations in the mean time had been going on for the race, and the

horses with their riders made their appearance. The men were dressed in

caps and loose tobes and trowsers of every colour; boots of red morocco

leather, and turbans of white and blue cotton. The horses were gaily

caparisoned; strings of little brass bells covered their heads; their

breasts were ornamented with bright red cloth and tassels of silk and

cotton; a large quilted pad of neat embroidered patchwork was placed

under the saddle of each; and little charms, inclosed in red and yellow

cloth, were attached to the bridle with bits of tinsel. The Arab saddle

and stirrup were in common use; and the whole group presented an

imposing appearance.

The signal for starting was made, and the impatient animals sprung

forward and set off at a full gallop. The riders brandished their

spears, the little boys flourished their cows’ tails, the buffoons

performed their antics, muskets were discharged, and the chief himself,

mounted on the finest horse on the ground, watched the progress of the

race, while tears of delight were starting from his eyes. The sun shone

gloriously on the tobes of green, white, yellow, blue, and crimson, as

they fluttered in the breeze; and with the fanciful caps, the glittering

spears, the jingling of the horses’ bells, the animated looks and

warlike bearing of their riders, presented one of the most extraordinary

and pleasing sights that we have ever witnessed. The race was well

contested, and terminated only by the horses being fatigued and out of

breath; but though every one was emulous to outstrip his companion,

honour and fame were the only reward of the competitors.

A few naked boys, on ponies without saddles, then rode over the course,

after which the second and last heat commenced. This was not by any

means so good as the first, owing to the greater anxiety which the

horsemen evinced to display their skill in the use of the spear and the

management of their animals. The king maintained his seat on horseback

during these amusements, without even once dismounting to converse with

his wives and children who were sitting on the ground on each side of

him. His dress was showy rather than rich, consisting of a red cap,

enveloped in the large folds of a white muslin turban; two under tobes

of blue and scarlet cloth, and an outer one of white muslin; red

trowsers, and boots of scarlet and yellow leather. His horse seemed

distressed by the weight of his rider, and the various ornaments and

trappings with which his head, breast, and body, were bedecked. The

chief’s eldest and youngest sons were near his women and other children,

mounted on two noble looking horses. The eldest of these youths was

about eleven years of age. The youngest being not more than three, was

held on the back of his animal by a male attendant, as he was unable to

sit upright in the saddle without this assistance. The child’s dress was

ill suited to his age. He wore on his head a tight cap of Manchester

cotton, but it overhung the upper part of his face, and together with

its ends, which flapped over each cheek, hid nearly the whole of his

countenance from view; his tobe and trowsers were made exactly in the

same fashion as those of a man, and two large belts of blue cotton,

which crossed each other, confined the tobe to his body. The little legs

of the child were swallowed up in clumsy yellow boots, big enough for

his father; and though he was rather pretty, his whimsical dress gave

him altogether so odd an appearance, that he might have been taken for

any thing but what he really was. A few of the women on the ground by

the side of the king wore large white dresses, which covered their

persons like a winding-sheet. Young virgins, according to custom,

appeared in a state of nudity; many of them had wild flowers stuck

behind their ears, and strings of beads, &c., round their loins; but

want of clothing did not seem to damp their pleasure in the

entertainment, for they appeared to enter into it with as much zest as

any of their companions. Of the different coloured tobes worn by the

men, none looked so well as those of a deep crimson colour on some of

the horsemen; but the clean white tobes of the Mohammedan priests, of

whom not less than a hundred were present on the occasion, were

extremely neat and becoming. The sport terminated without the slightest

accident, and the king’s dismounting was a signal for the people to

disperse.

We then paid our respects to the chief as usual, but our reception was

formal and chilling, though nothing could have been more gratifying to

him than our attendance on the present occasion. We had half a mind to

be vexed at this mortifying repulse, but consoled ourselves with the

reflection that we had no right to expect anything more than common

courtesy and politeness. Besides this, he was surrounded by the

loveliest of his women and the most warlike of his subjects, and being a

rigid Mohammedan when it suits his convenience, he might have considered

us as the enemies of his religion. To have shown, therefore, too great

familiarity with us in the sight of his people, would perhaps have been

unbecoming the dignity of the Chief of Kiáma.

We have here endeavoured, to the best of our ability, to describe an

African horse-race, but it is impossible to convey a correct idea of the

singular and fantastic appearance of the numerous groups of people that

met our view on all sides, or to describe their animation and delight;

the martial equipment of the soldiers and their noble steeds, and the

wild, romantic, and overpowering interest of the whole mass. Singing and

dancing have been kept up all night, and the revellers will not think of

retiring to rest till morning.

_Thursday, June 3rd._—Our hostess is a poor, but kind, pleasant, and

comfortable-looking widow, rather stricken in years. To be sincerely

grateful for favours received is not in the disposition of her country-

people generally; yet this poor woman has given us an affecting instance

of this virtue, although our presents to her were so poor and trifling,

that we were almost ashamed to offer them. This little specimen of

genuine gratitude repays us for hundreds of sour looks and discontented

countenances which of late we have been compelled to witness.

Behind our hut grows a tall and beautiful tree, on the branches and

shoots of which reside a whole commonwealth of sparrows, in their

ingenious pendant nests. The constant noise of these little creatures,

and the twittering of swallows, which remain here all the year round,

form our usual morning’s entertainment. This sparrow is a very handsome

bird, and belongs to a species which, at Sierra Leone and other places,

is called the ‘rice-bird.’ We are also favoured by the visits of turtle-

doves and wood-pigeons. A few days ago, one of the latter, trusting too

much to the forbearance of our people, ventured into one of their huts,

and was there taken and destroyed. The disconsolate mate witnessed the

act; he has been lingering about our habitations ever since, and is

wasting himself away in mourning the loss of his companion. His fidelity

has called forth our sympathy, and we do not suffer him to be molested.

Lizards, in great number and variety, infest the walls and roofs of our

huts, among which is one of a black species, whose bite is considered

fatal[10]. This reptile is very rare, and is dreaded by every one, not

on account of the venomous properties which are ascribed to it, so much

as from the belief that the person who sees one and suffers it to escape

him, will soon after experience some heavy calamity. The natives also

believe that if a black lizard be destroyed as soon as it is found,

fifes are played and drums beat in the celestial regions, where there is

great rejoicing at the circumstance; and that good fortune is sure to be

the reward of the person who may rid the world of such a nuisance. We

observed a lizard yesterday with two tails, which phenomenon, we are

told, is not uncommon here. Other lizards, of every species and colour,

are numerous.

As this is a holiday at Kiáma, it has been spent by its inhabitants in

visiting each other, in walking up and down the public places to display

their finery, or in singing, dancing, and musical parties. Little boys

and young men have been on their knees praying for us to-day; and as

they were not impertinent, but, on the contrary, evinced gentleness and

modesty in their demeanour, we would not suffer them to leave us without

rewarding each with a darning-needle.

We have been detained in Kiáma thus long, by reason, it is alleged, of

the holidays; and as to-morrow will be the Mohammedan Sabbath, we shall

not be able to procure carriers till the following morning. We expected,

naturally enough, that plenty of good provender, and a few days’ rest,

would recruit the strength of our horses; but, unfortunately, a contrary

effect has been produced. My brother’s, more especially, has fallen away

to a perfect skeleton; certainly, with the exception of _Rosinante_, no

horse, either in ancient or modern times, ever presented a spectacle

more piteous and woe-begone; it is quite painful even to look at his

fleshless carcase.

_Friday, June 4th._—Perhaps no two people in the universe residing so

near each other, differ more widely in their habits and customs, and

even in their natures, than the natives of Yarriba and Borgoo. The

former are perpetually engaged in trading with each other from town to

town; the latter never quit their towns except in case of war, or when

engaged in predatory excursions: the former are pusillanimous and

cowardly; the latter are bold and courageous, full of spirit and energy,

and never seem happier than when engaged in martial exercises: the

former are generally mild, unassuming, humble and honest, but cold and

passionless;—the latter are proud and haughty; too vain to be civil, and

too shrewd to be honest; yet they appear to understand somewhat of the

nature of love and the social affections; are warm in their attachments,

and keen in their resentments.

The king visited us at our hut this morning, attended by three or four

of his younger wives. The object of his coming was to get something from

us, therefore, we considered it no compliment.

Yarro has seen all the articles which we have given to his people, a

custom which prevails here as well as in Yarriba; but, unlike the

monarch of that country, he has converted to his own use those among

them with which he was best pleased. Even his brother, who is a very

good young man, and who accompanied us from Keeshee as messenger, has

suffered from his selfishness, having been deprived of half the few

things we had given him for his services.

The king’s eldest son is governor of a town through which we shall have

to pass on our way to Boossà, and it is agreed that he shall accompany

us to that city. It is customary to give the messengers a present

proportionate to the services they may have rendered us; and in the

course of conversation this morning with the king, he wished to see the

present it was our intention to offer his son. This was presently shown

him, and he took from it the only piece of cloth which it contained, and

which we are unable to replace. He then begged a little medicine for

weak eyes; and my brother presented him with a quantity of Epsom salts,

and a small syringe. The king immediately began trying experiments on

the instrument by spirting water into the faces of his wives, who did

not appear to enjoy the diversion so well as himself. After a long, but

uninteresting conversation, Yarro took his leave, followed by his women,

and it is not likely that we shall see him again till the time of our

departure to-morrow morning.

I have given him my fowling piece and a pistol, having promised him this

present when I left, if I should live to return to Kiáma; the king has

also had some of our best new gilt buttons.

In the evening, a very old and respectable Falátah, the chief of a

village at a short distance from Kiáma, came to see us with several of

his people. This singular race are dispersed all over the Borgoo

territories, where they have resided from time immemorial. They are

generally styled _Foulànie_; but although this word is evidently derived

from _Foulah_, and although they speak the same language and follow the

same pursuits as the Foulahs near Sierra Leone, who are supposed to be

the white Ethiopians of Ptolemy and Pliny, yet they have not the

slightest idea of their origin, nor of the period when their ancestors

first emigrated from their native land. The Falátahs in Borgoo maintain

no intercourse whatever with their countrymen in Hàussa; and in order to

prevent mischief and disturbances from taking place, none of them are

permitted, on any consideration, to wear a sword, or carry about his

person any offensive weapon.

A few years ago, there stood a village not many miles from Kiáma, which

was inhabited solely by emigrants from Nouffie; but it is said to have

been lately plundered and destroyed by Yarro’s subjects, who first broke

faith with the unfortunate people, and afterwards made them slaves.

The mean state of the thermometer of Fahrenheit has been 84; the

extremes 75 and 94 in our hut.

Journal of an expedition to explore the course and termination of the Niger, Vol. 1 (of 3) · 第 6 / 7 章