Departure from Katunga — Difficulties with the Carriers — Musicians of
Atoopa — Town of Keeshee — Curiosity of the Natives — The Falátah town
of Acba — Character of its Inhabitants — The Governor of Keeshee and his
Wife — Their Superstition — Leave Keeshee — Robbers — Cross the Moussa —
Change in the Country — Escort from the King of Kiáma — Arrival in that
City.
Considerable time elapsed before the carriers were ready to take up
their loads, and much murmuring was occasioned by their size and weight.
We then left the city, and returned to _Eetcho_ by the way we had come.
One of our horses became so weak on the road, that he was unable to
carry his rider (old Pascoe), so that we were obliged to drive him along
before us, which was a tiresome and unpleasant occupation. The journey
from Katunga is long, and, owing to the ruggedness of the path, is very
fatiguing; and as we were much in advance of the remainder of the party,
we halted at Eetcholee until they joined us. Here we let our horses
graze, partook of some beer and other refreshment; and sat down on the
turf to enjoy ourselves, for the day had been sultry and the heat
oppressive, and our whole party were nearly exhausted.
_Saturday, May 22d._—The Katunga carriers all complained of pains in
their limbs this morning, and on reaching _Leoguadda_, which lies midway
between Eetcho and Atoopa, they placed their burdens on the ground, and,
to a man, stoutly refused to take them any further till to-morrow. Our
own men also, who were still more heavily laden than they, had suffered
so much from the long and irksome journey of yesterday, particularly
Jowdie, who is the strongest and most athletic of them all, that we
greatly feared they would have been taken seriously ill on the road. We
therefore lightened their burdens, and distributed a portion of what we
had taken out of them, into the boxes, &c., of their already overladen
Katunga associates, without, however, permitting the latter to know
anything of the circumstance. Among the carriers was a very little man,
called _Gazherie_ (small man) on account of his diminutive stature; he
was, notwithstanding, very muscular, and possessed uncommon strength,
activity, and vigour of body, and bore a package, containing our tent,
&c., which, though very heavy, was yet by far the lightest load of the
whole. Conceiving that corporal strength, rather than bulk or height,
should, in this case, be taken into account, a bag of shot, weighing 28
lbs. was extracted from Jowdie’s burden, and clandestinely added to his.
The little man trudged along merrily without dreaming of the fraud that
had been practised on him, till we arrived within a short distance of
Leoguadda, when, imagining that one end of the tent felt much heavier
than the other, he was induced to take it from his head, and presently
discovered the cheat, for the bag having been thrust simply inside the
covering, it could be seen without unlacing the package. He was much
enraged at being thus deceived, and called his companions around him to
witness the fact, and said he was resolved to proceed no farther than
Leoguadda. He then succeeded in persuading them to follow his example,
and thus a kind of combination was instantly formed against us.
As is usual with us on entering a village, we rested a little while
under a shady tree in Leoguadda, and here we were presently surrounded
by the murmuring carriers, with the little man at their head. They were
furious at first, and gave us to understand that they would go no
further, and were determined, let the consequence be what it might, to
remain in the town all night. Leoguadda contained no accommodations
whatever for us; a storm seemed to be gathering over our heads; and
Atoopa was the town in which the king of Katunga had advised us to spend
the night. We resolved, therefore, to go on to that town, and
strenuously endeavoured, by gentle means, to bring over the carriers to
our views; but these failing, we resorted to their own mode of argument,
namely, fierce looks, violent action, vociferous bawling, and expressive
gesture, which intimidated them so much, that they snatched up their
burdens without saying a word, and ran away with alacrity and good
humour. These carriers are to accompany us as far as the frontier town
of the kingdom.
It is market-day at Atoopa, and at a distance of some miles from the
town, the hum of human voices could be distinctly heard. Just after our
arrival, a man of note, who is a public singer and dancer, stood before
the door of our hut to entertain us with a specimen of his abilities;
and he entered with so much warmth and agility into the spirit of his
profession, that his whimsical performance really afforded us much
diversion. The musician had two assistant drummers in his train, whose
instruments were far from being unmusical, and likewise several other
men, whose part was to keep time by clapping with their hands. The
dancing was excellent of its kind, and resembled more the European style
than any we had before seen in the country. The singing was equally
good, the voices of the men being clear and agreeable; they sang the
responses, and likewise accompanied the chanting of their master with
their voices; indeed, they performed their part of the entertainment to
admiration. A _fatàkie_ (a smaller number than a _gaffley_) of merchants
left Atoopa yesterday for Kiáma, and it is likely that we shall overtake
them at the next town.
We omitted to mention in yesterday’s journal, that to our infinite
astonishment we saw a middle-aged woman sitting on the road-side, the
colour of whose skin was naturally as bright a red as a piece of our own
scarlet cloth. We were informed that she was in good health; but we were
in too great a hurry to ask her any questions, or take a nearer view of
her person; indeed, our guide seemed much disinclined to go within a
hundred yards of her. She was a most singular looking being.
_Sunday, May 23d._—Though our horses were this morning in a very weak
condition, and all looked extremely sorrowful, yet we quitted Atoopa at
an early hour and in good spirits; and journeying in a westerly
direction, in two hours’ time we entered a lively little walled town,
called _Bumbum_. Here we dismounted, and took a slight refreshment of
parched corn and water, on the trunk of a fallen tree. Bumbum is a great
thoroughfare for _fatàkies_ of merchants, trading from Hàussa, Borgoo,
and other countries, to Gonja; and consequently a vast quantity of land
is cultivated in its vicinity with corn and yams, to supply them with
provisions. On quitting this town, our course altered to N.W., and
continued so till our arrival at the large and important town of
_Keeshee_, which is on the frontiers of the kingdom, and distant from
Atoopa only about twelve miles. It is surrounded by a double strong clay
wall, and is in an excellent situation, as a place of security from the
attacks of an enemy. Before entering this place, and at the distance of
a mile from it, we passed through a clean, extensive, and highly
flourishing Falátah village, called _Acba_, which, like most other
places in Yarriba inhabited by Falátahs, is well stocked with sheep and
cattle.
A governor of Keeshee died only ten days ago; and we were well received
by his successor, who is an elderly and respectable looking man. Shortly
after our arrival, he sent us a present of a fine young bullock, a
quantity of yams, and more than a gallon of excellent strong beer. In
the centre of the town there is a high stony hill, almost covered with
trees of stunted growth, to which, in case of invasion by an enemy, the
inhabitants fly for refuge. As soon as they have reached its summit, it
is borne, say they, by a supernatural power beyond the clouds, where it
remains till the danger is over. Some years have elapsed since this
miracle last took place, yet the story is told with a serious belief of
its truth, and with the most amusing gravity. About a quarter of a mile
to the north-east of this marvellous hill, rises another, which very
much resembles it in shape and appearance; but the latter is rather
larger and higher, and overlooks the country for many miles round.
A great number of emigrants from different countries reside here: there
are not a few from Borgoo, Nouffie, Hàussa, and Bornou, and two or three
Tuâricks, from the borders of the Great Desert. To the west of the town
is a picturesque hill of a gentle ascent, on which are several small
hamlets. These hamlets have a rural and eminently beautiful appearance.
In no town through which we have hitherto travelled, have we seen so
many fine tall men and good-looking women, as at this place; yet several
individuals of both sexes are to be met with who have lost the sight of
one eye, and others who have unseemly wens on the throat, as large as
cocoa-nuts. We have likewise seen a cripple to-day for the first time,
and a female dwarf whose height scarcely exceeds thirty inches, and
whose appearance bespeaks her to be between thirty and forty years of
age. Her head is disproportionably large to the size of her body; her
features, like her voice, are harsh, masculine, and unpleasant in the
extreme. It would be ridiculous to be afraid of such a diminutive thing;
yet there was an expression in her countenance so peculiarly repulsive,
unwomanly, and hideous, that on her approaching our hut, I felt a very
unusual and disagreeable sensation steal over me. Descriptions of an elf
or a black dwarf in the ‘Arabian Nights’ Entertainments,’ or modern
European romances, would serve well to portray the form and lineaments
of this singular little being.
This is a market-day here, and I took a walk this evening to the place
where the market is held; but the crowd that gathered round me was so
great, as to compel me to return home much sooner than I had intended.
If I happened to stand still even for a moment, the people pressed by
thousands to get close to me; and if I attempted to go on, they tumbled
one over another to get out of my way, overturned standings and
calabashes, threw down their owners, and scattered their property about
in all directions. Smiths welcomed me by clashing their iron tools
against each other, and drummers by thumping violently upon one end of
their instruments. A few women and children ran from me in a fright; but
the majority, less timid, approached as near as they could to catch a
glimpse of the first white man they had ever seen. My appearance seemed
to interest them amazingly, for they tittered and wished me well, and
turned about to titter again. On returning, the crowd became more dense
than ever, and drove all before them like a torrent. Dogs, goats, sheep,
and poultry were borne along against their will, which terrified them so
much, that nothing could be heard but noises of the most lamentable
description; children screamed, dogs yelled, sheep and goats bleated
most piteously, and fowls cackled and fluttered from among the crowd.
And happy indeed was I to shelter myself from all this uproar in our own
yard, whither the multitude dared not follow.
The widows of the deceased chief of Keeshee daily set apart a portion of
the twenty-four hours to cry for their bereavement, and pray to their
gods. They began this evening in the same sad, mournful tone which is
commonly heard on similar occasions, all over the country. We asked our
interpreter why the women grieved so bitterly. He answered quickly—‘What
matter? they laugh directly,’ so I suppose they cry from habit rather
than from feeling; and that they can shed tears and be merry in the same
breath, whenever they please. About seven o’clock this evening, we heard
a public crier proclaiming with a loud voice, that should any one be
discovered straggling about the streets after that hour, he would be
seized and put to death. Many houses in the town have lately been set on
fire by incendiaries, and this most likely has given rise to the above
precautionary measure.
_Monday, May 24th._—We have been compelled to remain here to-day,
through the governor’s inability to procure us carriers for the luggage.
The number of people who have visited us to-day has been so great, and
their company so irksome, that we were perplexed for some time how to
get rid of them without offence. One party in particular was so
unpleasant, and they so seriously incommoded us, that we had recourse to
the unusual expedient of smoking them off, by kindling a fire at the
door of our hut, before which they were sitting. It succeeded agreeably
to our wishes.
A company of women and girls from the Falátah village of _Acba_,
impelled by a curiosity so natural to their sex, came likewise to see us
in the afternoon; but _their_ society, instead of being disagreeable, as
the company of all our other visitors proved to be, was hailed by us
with pleasure. For these females are so modest and so retiring, and
evince so much native delicacy in their whole behaviour, that they
excited in us the highest respect. Their personal attractions are no
less winning. They have fine sparkling jetty eyes, with eyelashes dark
and glossy as the raven’s plume. Their features are agreeable, although
their complexions are tawny. Their general form is elegant, their hands
small and delicate; and the peculiar cleanliness of their persons, and
neatness of dress added to these, rendered their society altogether as
desirable as that of their neighbours was disagreeable.
The Falátahs inhabiting Acba were all born and bred in that town. Their
ancestors settled in the country at so remote a period, that, although
we made inquiries respecting it, our questions were unavailing, and in
fact, not even a tradition has been preserved on the subject. These
‘children of the soil’ lead a harmless, tranquil, and sober life, which
they never suffer passing events to disturb. They have no ambition to
join their more restless and enterprising countrymen who have made
themselves masters of Alòrie and Ràka, nor even to meddle in the private
or public concerns of their near neighbours of Keeshee. Indeed they have
kept themselves apart and distinct from all; they have retained the
language of their fathers and the simplicity of their manners, and their
existence glides serenely and happily away, in the enjoyment of the
domestic pleasures and social tenderness which are found in civilized
society, and which are unknown among their roving countrymen. They are
on the best possible terms with their neighbours, like the Falátahs at
Bóhoo, and by them they are held in great respect.
The governor of Keeshee is a Borgoo man, and boasts of being the bosom
friend of Yarro, chief of Kiáma; but as the old man told us many
wonderful stories of the number of towns under his sway, his amazing
power, great influence, and the entire subjection in which his own
people were kept by his own good government, all of which we listened to
with patience, we are inclined to believe that the governor’s
pretensions are as hollow as they are improbable. As to his government,
he gave us a specimen of it by bawling to a group of children that had
followed our steps into the yard, to go about their business. But every
one in this country displays this ridiculous vanity; and in most of the
towns we have visited, it was the first great care of their chiefs to
impress on our minds an idea of their vast importance, which in many
instances was refuted by their ragged tobes and squalid appearance. Yet,
if their own accounts are to be credited, their affluence and power are
unbounded. To this vainglorious feeling they sacrifice truth, which in
almost all cases they highly reverence, and make themselves truly
ridiculous by their absurdities. In our case, however, they had white
men and strangers to deal with; and perhaps it is natural, among simple
barbarians, to court admiration and applause, even though they employ no
other means than exaggeration and falsehood. After a deal of talking,
much more indeed than we can now remember, the governor of Keeshee
begged the favour of a little rum and medicine to heal his foot, which
is inclined to swell and give him pain; and requested that we would
repair a _gun_ which had been deprived of its stock by fire. He then
sang us a ditty in praise of elephants and their teeth, in which he was
assisted by his cane-bearer, and afterwards took his leave. We have
received little presents of goora nuts, salt, honey, mi-cadania butter,
&c., from several of the inhabitants of the town. It was new moon on
Saturday, and from the rains which have since fallen, it is likely that
henceforth we shall have much wet weather.
_Tuesday, May 25th._—Some Mallams, and others who wish to accompany us
to Kiáma, whither they are going for the purposes of trade, persuaded
the easy-minded governor last night to defer getting us carriers till
to-morrow, because, forsooth, they are not prepared to travel to-day. We
are therefore obliged to await the further pleasure of these influential
merchants. Thus balked in our expectations, after our luggage had all
been packed up for our starting, I endeavoured to amuse myself early in
the morning, by scrambling to the top of the high and steep hill which
stands in the middle of the town. In my progress I disturbed a tiger-cat
from his retreat among the rocks, but was rewarded for my labour by an
extensive and agreeable prospect from the summit of this mountain, which
I found to consist of large blocks of white marble. The town, with its
double wall, perforated with holes for bowmen to shoot through, lay at
my feet, and several little rural villages studded the country on every
side.
The governor of Keeshee is so old and infirm, that it is evident he has
not many years to live. I gave him a lotion yesterday for a swollen
foot, which greatly elated one or two of his attendants, and their
animated looks and gestures bespoke hearts overflowing with grateful
feelings, so much so indeed, that we remarked the circumstance as being
of rare occurrence. This morning, a young man, one of the number,
visited us with a countenance so rueful, and spoke in a tone so low and
melancholy, that his whole appearance was completely altered, insomuch
that we were desirous to learn what evil had befallen him. The cause of
it was soon explained by his informing us that he would be doomed to die
with two companions, as soon as their governor’s dissolution should take
place; and as the old man has already one foot in the grave, the poor
fellow’s sadness was not to be wondered at. When this same individual
and his associates observed me giving the lotion to their master
yesterday, they imagined it would prolong his existence, and
consequently lengthen their own; and hence arose that burst of feeling
which had attracted our attention. The people here imagine we can do
anything, but more especially that we are acquainted with, and can cure
all the complaints and disorders to which man is liable.
The governor solicited a charm of us to-day, to preserve his house from
the effects of fire, and cause him to become rich; while one of his
elderly wives made a doleful complaint of having been likely to become a
mother for the last thirty years, and begged piteously for medicine to
promote and assist her _accouchement_. We could satisfy the old man
easily enough, but his wife’s hypochondriacal complaint we conceived too
dangerous to be meddled with by unprofessional hands. Poor woman, she is
much to be pitied, for the odd delusion under which she has been
labouring so long a time has given her considerable uneasiness, so that
life itself has become a burden to her. All that we could do for her,
was to soothe her mind, by telling her that her distemper was very
common, and not at all dangerous, and promising, that on our return this
way, should nothing transpire in her favour in the mean time, we would
endeavour to remove the cause of her complaint. This comforted the aged
matron exceedingly, and, in the fulness of her heart, she burst into
tears of joy, dropped on her knees to express her acknowledgment, and
pressed us to accept of a couple of goora nuts.
Our engaging female friends, the Falátahs, paid us a second visit this
morning with bowls of milk and foorah; and in the evening a few of their
male companions also came, and remained with us a considerable time.
Both sexes displayed the same timid reserve in our presence, and
deported themselves in the same respectful manner, that they did
yesterday. It appears that the Falátahs inhabiting Acba, though very
numerous, are but one family, for we are told that their ancestor
separated himself from his friends, relatives, and acquaintances, and
exiling himself for ever from his native country, he travelled hither
with his wives and children, his flocks and herds. The sons and
daughters of his descendants intermarry only among their own kindred;
and they are betrothed to each other in infancy and childhood. The
little that I have seen of Falátahs in Yarriba has convinced me that in
all things they are much, _very_ much superior to the loveless and
unsocial proprietors of the soil. Their countenances bespeak more
intelligence, and their manners display less roughness and barbarism.
The domestic virtues of the Falátahs are also more affectionate and
endearing, and their family regulations more chaste and binding.
_Wednesday, May 26th._—We arose before sunrise this morning, and having
little to do in the way of preparation for setting out, we took a hasty
breakfast, and afterwards went to pay our respects to the governor, and
thank him for his hospitality and goodness to us. On returning to our
lodgings, we had the pleasure of receiving the morning salutation of our
fair friends the Falátahs on bended knee. Resolved to have another and a
last chat with the white strangers, these females had come for the
purpose of offering us two calabashes of new milk. This, and former
little acts of kindness, which we have received from these dark-eyed
maidens, have effectually won our regard, because we know they were
disinterestedly given; and the few minutes which we have had the
happiness of spending in their company, and that of their countrymen,
have redeemed many hours of listlessness and melancholy, which absence
from our native country, and thoughts of home and friends, but too often
excite in our breasts. It was therefore not without a feeling of sorrow
that we bade them adieu. For my own part, when they blessed me in the
name of Alla and their prophet, and implored blessings on my head, and
when I gazed upon the faces of the simple-hearted and innocent females
who had so piously and fervently invoked the benediction, with the
consciousness of beholding them no more in this life, my heart was
touched with sorrow; for of all reflections, this is certainly the most
melancholy and dispiriting!
‘Ye, who have known what ’tis to dote upon
A few dear objects, will in sadness feel
Such partings break the heart they fondly hoped to heal!’
There was less of feeling and tenderness, certainly, though more words
and much greater noise in taking our farewell of the two old messengers
that had accompanied us from Badágry, and who, with the Jenna guides,
will return homewards to-morrow. They have behaved themselves throughout
to our hearts’ desire; and because they had been our companions in a
long and painful journey, and because their faces had become
familiarized to us, we left them behind with sincere regret.
Although we left Keeshee between six and seven in the morning, we were
obliged to seat ourselves on a green turf in the outskirts of the town,
and wait there till a quarter after nine before the carriers with the
luggage made their appearance. Here we were joined by a Borgoo
_fatàkie_, and our ears were saluted with the hoarse, dull sounds of
their drum, which was played by a ragged one-eyed Yarribean long after
we were on our journey. A company of merchants trading through the
country has always a drummer in their pay, who walks at the head of the
party, and performs on his instrument continually, be the journey ever
so long, for the purpose of animating the slaves to quicken their steps.
Our route lay through a vast and lonely forest, infested by bands of
robbers, and in which there is not a single human habitation. My brother
went unarmed before the _fatàkie_, and travelled alone, whilst I
remained behind to defend the carriers in case of necessity. He had
already rode some distance in advance of us, when about twenty very
suspicious-looking fellows, armed with lances and bows and arrows,
suddenly made their appearance from behind the trees, where they had
concealed themselves, and stood in the middle of the path before the men
with the luggage, who were so terrified, that they were preparing to
drop their burdens and run away. My gun being loaded, I levelled it at
them, and had nearly discharged it at the leader, which intimidated them
all so much, that they retreated again into the heart of the forest.
When the people of Yarriba observe any one approaching them on the road,
whose appearance inspires them with apprehension as to the honesty of
his intentions, they fling off their loads without waiting the result of
the meeting, and take to their heels without venturing to look behind
them. The robbers, therefore, when they saw our people, no doubt,
expected to obtain an easy booty; not anticipating to find a white man
among them, nor thinking that our carriers would have made a stand.
We journeyed fifteen miles through this dreaded forest, which occupied
us five hours and three-quarters, owing to the weakness of our horses
and want of water, but above all to the oppressive heat of the weather,
from which we all suffered more or less. We then arrived at the
_Moussa_, which is a rivulet separating the kingdom of Yarriba from
Borgoo. Having satisfied our thirst and bathed, we crossed the stream,
and entered a little village on the northern bank, where we halted for
the day.
When travelling in the bush, several men in the train of a _fatàkie_
wear a large iron ring on the thumb and middle finger. To the latter a
piece of plate iron is attached, with which they make signals to each
other and the _fatàkie_ when apart by clinking the rings. This method of
communication is very significant, and it is understood as well, and is
as promptly answered or obeyed, as our boatswain’s whistle. The
collision of the rings produces a harsh, grating noise, loud enough to
be heard at a considerable distance.
The mere crossing of a little stream, which a person might almost jump
over, has introduced us into a country very different from Yarriba,
which is inhabited by a different people, who speak a different
language, profess a different religion, and whose manners, customs,
amusements, and pursuits, are altogether different. The village in which
we are stopping is called _Moussa_, after the river, and is distant from
Keeshee, in a northerly direction, as nearly as we can guess, about
sixteen miles. We occupy a large round hut, called by the natives of
this country _Càtamba_, in the Haussa language _Zowley_, and in Bornou
_Coozie_. In the centre of it is the trunk of a large tree, which
supports the roof; it has two apertures for doors, which are opposite
each other; and directly over them, suspended from the wall, are a
couple of charms, written in the Arabic character on bits of paper,
which are to preserve the premises from being destroyed by fire. It is
now eleven P.M.; our attendants, with several of their fellow
travellers, are reposing on mats and skins in various parts of the hut.
Bows and arrows, and quivers ornamented with cows’ tails, together with
muskets, pistols, swords, lances, and other weapons, are either hanging
on the wall or resting against it. The scene is wild and singular, and
quite romantic. Outside our hut it is yet more striking. There, though
it rains and thunders, the remainder of the _fatàkie_, consisting of
men, women, and children, are sitting on the ground in groups or
sleeping near several large fires, which are burning almost close to the
hut, whilst others are lying under the shelter of large spreading trees
in its immediate vicinity. Their only apparel is drawn over their half
naked persons; their weapons are at their sides, and their horses are
grazing near them. Most of the people have gone to rest without food;
yet they sleep soundly, and appear quite happy and comfortable after
their day’s exertion and fatigue. One of our men fainted on the road to-
day from exhaustion, and is now feverish and unwell.
_Thursday, May 27th._—There is a sweetness in the mountain air and a
dewy freshness in the morning, which we experienced to-day with
considerable pleasure on ascending the hills which border the northern
side of the pretty little _Moussa_. When wild beasts, tired with their
nightly prowling, seek retirement and repose in the lonely depths of
these primeval forests, and when birds, perched on the branches of trees
over our heads, warble forth their morning song, it is the time that
makes up for the languid, wearisome hours in the heat of the day, when
nothing can amuse and nothing interest us. It is in the earlier part of
the morning, too, or in the cool of the evening, that nature can be
leisurely contemplated and admired in the simple loveliness of a verdant
plain, a sequestered grotto, or a rippling brook; or in the wilder and
more mysterious features of her beauty in the height of a craggy
precipice, the silence and gloom of vast shady woods, or when those
woods are gracefully bending to the passing gale.
An hour’s ride brought us near the site of a town which was formerly
peopled only by robbers. It was, however, destroyed some years ago, and
its inhabitants either slain or dispersed, by order of the present
spirited ruler of Kiáma, since which time the road has been less dreaded
by travellers. Our path lay through a rich country, covered with
luxuriant grasses and fine trees, but very little underwood could be
seen. It abounds plentifully with deer and antelopes, and other wild
animals of a more ferocious nature, such as the lion, the leopard, the
elephant, the wild ass, &c.; but the solitary lowing of a buffalo was
the only sound that we distinguished in the forest, and we had not the
pleasure of meeting even with this animal.
At eleven o’clock we entered a very small and cleanly-looking village,
where we halted for the day. Unfortunately its governor, with most of
the people, were at work in the fields at some distance, so that we
could get nothing to eat till rather late in the evening. It appears
that these poor villagers are forced to supply the soldiers of their
sovereign with provisions gratis, whenever business leads them so far
this way from the capital; and that in order to avoid the rapacity of
these men, they have built another hamlet in the woods, far out of the
way of the path, whither they carry their goats, &c., and the corn of
which they may not be in immediate want.
On arriving, we were introduced into a small grass hut, which smoke has
changed into the most glossy black we have ever seen; and the interior
of its roof is ingeniously decorated with large festoons of cobweb and
dust, which must have been accumulating for a number of years. Its
fetísh is a dried grasshopper, which is preserved in a little calabash;
but as if this were insufficient to protect it from all the damages to
which huts in this country are constantly exposed, auxiliary charms of
blood and feathers are likewise stuck on the inside of the wall. At
sunset, not having anything to eat, I went out into the wood with my
gun, and was fortunate enough to shoot a few doves; and Paskoe, who went
in a different direction, shot a Guinea hen, which made us an excellent
supper. Hunger had driven back our Keeshee carriers, who were to have
accompanied us to Kiáma, and therefore we have been obliged to send a
messenger to Yarro, for men to supply their place. Late in the evening,
the governor of the village returned from his labour in the fields, and
presented us with corn and honey.
_Friday, May 28th._—In the forenoon, the musical jingling of little
bells announced the approach of a body of horsemen, who in less than a
minute galloped up to our hut, and saluted us one after another with a
martial air, by brandishing their spears, to our great discomfiture,
within a few feet of our faces. To display their horsemanship the more
effectually, they caused their spirited steeds to prance and rear in our
presence; and when they imagined we were convinced of their abilities,
they dismounted to prostrate themselves before us, and acquaint us of
the welfare of their prince. The carriers who had arrived from Kiáma,
had preceded them on the road, and the whole of the men now sat down to
partake of a little refreshment. It was twelve o’clock exactly when we
set out on our journey, and the day being so far advanced, we wished to
make all the haste possible, but the weather was extremely warm, and our
horses were hardly strong enough to carry their riders, so that we were
obliged, after all, to travel very slowly. At five P.M. we reached the
ruins of a small town. The path was through the same forest as
yesterday; but this part of it is less thickly wooded. At one place we
remarked two immensely large trees, springing up almost close together;
their mighty trunks and branches were twisted, and firmly clasped round
each other, like giants in the act of embracing, and presented an
appearance highly novel and singular. Ant-hills were numerous in the
road; and a few paces from it, we observed, as we rode along, little
cone-shaped mud-buildings, erected by the natives for the purpose of
smelting iron ore, which is found in abundance in different parts of the
country. At sunset we arrived at a village called _Benikenny_, which
means, in the language of the people, ‘a cunning man;’ and found there
three women waiting our arrival with corn and milk from the King of
Kiáma: this was very acceptable, for we had been without food thirteen
hours. We rested at Benikenny a little, and fully expected to have slept
there, for the afternoon had been excessively warm, and we were all much
fatigued. But our armed escort were not in the same way of thinking as
ourselves, and they encouraged us to proceed to another village, which
they said was at no great distance. We therefore quitted Benikenny; yet
no village could be seen; and then the escort confessed that they had
deceived us, in order that we might arrive at Kiáma before night. The
sun had gone down on our quitting the halting-place; but the moon and
stars supplied us with a cooler and more agreeable light; and we
journeyed on through the forest more slowly than before. In spite of our
fatigue, we could not help admiring the serenity and beauty of the
evening, nor be insensible to the delicious fragrance shed around from
trees and shrubs. The appearance of our warlike and romantic escort was
also highly amusing. They were clad in the fashion of the East, and
sought their way between the trees on our right and left; but sometimes
they fell in our rear, and then again dashed suddenly by us with
astonishing swiftness, looking as wild as the scenery through which
their chargers bounded. The effect was rendered more imposing by the
reflection of the moon-beams from their polished spears and the pieces
of silver which are affixed to their caps, while the luminous fire-fly
appeared in the air like rising and falling particles of flame.
My brother’s horse was unable, from weakness and exhaustion, to carry
him farther than Benikenny, so that he was obliged to walk the remainder
of the journey to Kiáma, which is full six miles. About eight o’clock
Kiáma appeared before us, and in a few minutes we entered the city, and
rode directly to the king’s house. He came out to receive us after we
had been waiting outside a very short time, and welcomed us with much
satisfaction and good will. He is an elderly man, almost toothless, and
has a beard as white as wool. We observed nothing remarkable in his
dress or appearance. His first question was concerning the health of our
sovereign, and his second and last respecting our own welfare. He seemed
to be exceedingly well pleased at seeing me again. We then took our
leave, and were conducted by one of his slaves to a hut, or rather an
assemblage of huts, adjoining his own residence. But they were not
entirely to our satisfaction, for many of them had only one aperture in
each, which was scarcely three feet square; so that we could not get
into them excepting on our hands and knees. They were, besides, so very
close and warm, that we found great difficulty in breathing; and we
preferred a hut which was cooler and better ventilated, though it had
the inconvenience of a thoroughfare. No sooner were we securely housed,
than half a dozen of the king’s wives introduced themselves with huge
calabashes of sour milk, fried pancakes, and beef stewed in rice, the
first we have yet seen. Various coloured mats of excellent workmanship
were afterwards brought for our use; and with thankful hearts and
comfortable feelings, we lay down to rest.