place, victories for the Southerners. The Confederates moved on to
Brown's Gap, a point a bit nearer Richmond. "The success which the
Confederates had achieved was undoubtedly important. The Valley army,
posted at Brown's Gap, was now in direct communication with Richmond.
Not only had its pursuers been roughly checked, but the sudden and
unexpected counter-stroke, delivered by an enemy whom they believed to
be in full flight, had surprised Lincoln and Stanton as effectively as
Shields and Fremont."
Thus the plan of McClellan to fall upon Richmond had been postponed and
a division of the Northern forces was made necessary to protect the
Federal capital and to supply Banks with troops.
Later in the month Jackson's division moved with great secrecy to join
General Lee near Richmond--but that is a story for another time.
Belle Boyd, the Spy
"In a pretty storied house, the walls completely covered by roses and
honeysuckle in luxuriant bloom" according to Belle Boyd herself, lived
one of the most beautiful women and one of the most famous spies in all
history.
Martinsburg, her home in the beautiful Shenandoah Valley, was only a
village then and she tells us about her neighbors and her childhood--"It
was all golden and I was surrounded by devoted and beloved parents and
brothers and sisters ... our neighbors are some of the best families of
the Old Dominion descended from such ancestors as the Fairfaxes and
Washingtons."
When Belle was only twelve she was sent to Mount Washington Seminary in
Washington. At sixteen her education was finished and she made her
debut. She wrote how brilliant were the Congressional and Senate balls
where both Northern and Southern belles met and learned to love each
other as sisters.
Then came the dark days of Secession. Belle's own father was among the
first to enlist in the defense of Virginia. Belle returned home where
with other ladies she helped raise funds with which to equip the
Confederate soldiers. The colors were raised and on them one read these
words, "Our God, Our Country and Our Women."
Things were dull for Belle after her father and the boys marched away to
Harper's Ferry. Soon she went to visit them where she enjoyed the social
life until messages came saying the Federal troops were approaching. She
was sent home and scarcely had she arrived before the Southern troops
withdrew to Falling Waters, near her home. She heard the distant boom of
cannon and quickly there followed the battle of Martinsburg. After a
skirmish of five hours, Belle saw General Jackson's troops retreat.
Hard upon them were the Federals entering the village with flags flying
and the fifes playing the now despised "Yankee Doodle."
Dawned the Fourth of July and Belle woke to see the Yankee flags flying
from many homes. She heard the drunken soldiers as they planned to force
their way into homes whose doors and blinds were shut tight. Blows began
to batter down doors and those of the Boyd home were splintered as well
as those of their neighbors.
Some one had told the Federals that the walls of Belle's room were
covered with rebel flags. But though they searched none were found.
Belle's Negro maid had taken them down and carefully hidden them. The
soldiers were furious and began to break furniture, glass ornaments, and
abuse the Virginia sympathizers. Then they went out and began to raise
the United States flag over the Boyd home. This was more than Mrs. Boyd
could stand, so she spoke: "Men, every member of my household will die
before that flag shall be raised over us." Let us read Belle's account
of what followed:
"Upon this, one of the soldiers, thrusting himself forward
addressed my mother in language so offensive as it is
impossible to conceive. I could stand it no longer, my
indignation was aroused beyond control, my blood was literally
boiling in my veins, I drew out my pistol and shot him. He was
carried away mortally wounded and soon after he expired."
Then the Boyd home was set on fire, but it was hastily put out. The
Northern commander quickly arrived and an investigation followed. After
a long and lengthy trial, during which time the Boyd home was guarded by
sentries, the officer declared Belle had acted as any normal person
would have under similar circumstances.
From this time on, Belle gave herself to the Confederate Cause. She met
and charmed the Federal officers. She remembered their names and got
them to tell her their plans. These Belle carefully wrote down and sent
to General J. E. B. Stuart. Soon she was under suspicion and one of her
letters was seized by the enemy. She was sent for, arrested and asked if
she had written the letter. She acknowledged it, was rebuked and the
Articles of War regarding such deeds were read to her. Again a
trial--and a dismissal.
Belle was undaunted. She not only continued to pick up valuable
information, but she picked up small side arms and pistols and these,
along with the information, found their way into the Southern lines.
While on a visit to Front Royal the first battle of Manassas was fought.
The wounded were rushed into Front Royal and Belle found herself the
matron of the large hospital. Soldiers told how she worked night and
day, tirelessly giving of herself to comfort and help "the boys." After
eight weeks of such a strenuous life, Belle had to go home for a much
needed rest.
Before her mother thought she was strong enough, Belle left to visit her
father who was stationed at Manassas. Soon she was riding as a courier
back and forth for General Jackson and General Beauregard.
On one occasion Belle was in Front Royal waiting for an opportunity to
go to Richmond where her family had gone. She had secured passes from
some of her Federal friends and she was staying in the same house in
which General Shields was stopping. Belle's room was over the
living-room where the officers were making plans. A small hole in the
closet floor gave her a good view of the men--and served to let her hear
every word of their next maneuvers. Belle listened until one o'clock,
writing down in cypher each plan. Then she carefully stole down the back
steps, saddled a horse in the backyard and was off, fifteen miles, to
carry the message.
Twice she was held up by Federal sentinels and twice she showed them
Federal passes. She arrived safely back in Front Royal before day, as
fresh as a "morning flower."
We cannot give all of her escapades or her narrow escapes. Once she sped
through Front Royal with a message for General Jackson, her white sun
bonnet and white apron against a blue dress making her a target for the
Federals. Several times she felt bullets tear her wide billowing skirt,
but she kept on until she had reached the General--giving him the
position of the enemy: General Banks, at Strasburg with 4,000 troops,
General White marching to Winchester and General Fremont approaching the
Valley--all planning to "bottle up" Jackson's force.
Quickly the Confederates made plans which resulted in victory and
General Jackson wrote her, "Miss Belle Boyd--I thank you for myself and
for the Army for the immense service that you have rendered your country
this day. Hastily your friend, T. J. Jackson, C. S. A."
Romance like danger courted her wherever she was. Finally in 1864 she
decided to go to England. President Davis gave her important papers for
Southern sympathizers there. She sailed from Wilmington, North Carolina,
aboard the "Greyhound." Vivid pictures are given of the crew throwing
overboard bales of cotton, but even this did not enable the ship to
outrun the fast Union vessels. Captain Bier also dropped a keg of money,
over thirty thousand dollars in gold, in order to lighten the cargo.
When Belle saw they could not avoid capture she destroyed her dispatch
and managed to put into a belt many gold dollars which belonged to her
and the captain of the boat. Let us read her description of the Federal
officer who said he must take over command of the "Greyhound":
"I confess my attention was riveted by a gentleman--the first whom I had
met in my hour of distress. His dark brown hair hung down on his
shoulders, his eyes were large and bright. Those who judge beauty by
regularity of feature would not only have pronounced him strictly
handsome, but the fascination of his manner was such that my heart
yielded." He begged Belle to consider herself still a passenger, rather
than a prisoner, which evidently she did.
There was a moon, a soft breeze "which swept the surface of the ocean
until it was like a vast bed of sparkling diamonds." Lieutenant
Hardinge, the Federal officer, quoted poetry from Shakespeare and Byron
and before the vessel reached Boston, Belle had given her heart and her
promise to marry the lieutenant.
While their own course of true love seemed to run smoothly enough
various forces concentrated to keep them apart.
First of all, soon after arriving in Boston Captain Bier escaped. And
while Belle took the credit for that, Lieutenant Hardinge was under
suspicion. Besides, while Belle was being treated courteously in Boston
her betrothed had gone to Washington in her behalf. The newspapers of
the day flaunted the stories of the beautiful Rebel Spy and everywhere
she went great crowds pushed themselves upon her.
When Hardinge reached Washington he begged Gideon Welles, Secretary of
the Navy, permission for Miss Boyd to visit Canada. This was granted and
a telegram ordered an escort for her and her maid. However, notice was
given her that if she were caught again in the United States she would
be shot.
Her lover was captured next and arrested for aiding Captain Bier in
escaping. Finally, he went to Paris in search of the beautiful woman who
had promised to marry him. After some time Belle, who was in Liverpool,
learned where he was. She wrote to him and they met in London; they were
married in St. James' Church. There was a large and brilliant breakfast
at which a huge wedding cake was cut. Lieutenant Hardinge promised to
run the blockade and carry pieces of wedding cake to his wife's friends.
This he did when he arrived in Wilmington. Later he was arrested in
Baltimore, charged with being a deserter and was sent to prison.
Belle interested herself in his behalf and we are told that her charms
and the termination of the war secured his release. And so they lived
happily ever after!
* * * * *
In the foregoing account of the fearless work done by Belle Boyd and of
her visit to Front Royal during the Battle of Manassas we are reminded
of an inhabitant of the latter place, a Mr. McLean. Rumor has it that
the gentleman resided so close to the scene of battle--and it was a
bloody encounter--he resolved to quit the place for a quieter section of
Virginia. He had a distinct distaste for battles and bloodshed. So he
moved his family to Appomattox County in Virginia and watched the scene
of war with a feeling of comparative safety. The reader has guessed the
rest of the story.
A little previous to April 9th, 1865 the Union and Confederate forces
met at a spot not far from the courthouse and negotiations were started
for the surrender of General Lee, in command of the Confederates. And on
the ninth the surrender was made at the McLean house which marked the
cessation of war in Virginia. Poor Mr. McLean was present at the
beginning and conclusion of the fighting!
Harrisonburg
Harrisonburg is called the Friendly City and its people are noted for
their hospitality. It is near famous caverns and historic battlefields.
It was named in honor of Thomas Harrison who had fifty acres of his land
surveyed and laid out into lots and streets. It might also be called the
center of a large German element whose forefathers settled much of the
surrounding country. Harrisonburg is the county-seat of Rockingham
county, which was formed from Augusta in 1778. This is the third largest
county in Virginia.
These people have always been among the sturdiest and bravest in the
Valley. They gave the best they had to develop their new homes in a new
country and when they were called upon to fight in the French and
Indian War, there were no braver men to be had nor could any endure more
hardships than they.
During the Revolutionary War they were among the first to respond to the
call for volunteers. They were among the first to resent the closing of
the Boston Harbor by the British in 1774. We read an old account or
notation of Felix Gilbert who kept a shop near the town of Harrisonburg.
He agreed to take food-stuffs from his neighbors and send it to the
relief of the Bostonians. One of those entries, made in 1775, reads:
"Rece'd for the Bostonians; Of Patrick Frazier 1 bushel of
wheat, of Jos. Dictom 2 bushels of wheat, of James Beard 1 bu.
of wheat, Geo. Clarke 1 bu. wheat, Robt. Scott and Sons, 2 bu.
wheat."
MASSANUTTEN CAVERNS
The owners of the Massanutten Caverns call them the "gem of the cavern
world," for they are a combination of the beautiful and the unusual.
They are located east of Harrisonburg on the Spotswood Trail.
These caverns are of rather recent discovery. In 1892 during a thriving
limestone industry some workmen blasted rock in the foothills and after
the discharge of dynamite was over they looked into a fairyland of
strange rooms and strange formations.
The operator of the caverns called the entrance "Discovery Gate" and
planned the route through the underground so that visitors begin their
journey where the discovery was made.
Vacationists find themselves unloading their luggage and remaining
either overnight or for longer periods of time when they see the
facilities offered there. The accommodations include a golf course and
swimming pool as well as a lodge and cottages.
GRAND CAVERNS
Back in 1804 Bernard Weyer discovered the unusual caves situated on a
bluff belonging to his neighbor Mr. Mohler. Nearly a century before, the
courageous "Sir Knights of the Golden Horseshoe" had passed by this part
of the Blue Ridge--within ten miles of the entrance of the caverns,
perhaps, and because of the layout of the land never suspected the
underground "Buried City." Today these are called Grand Caverns and are
located between Elkton and Mt. Sidney, the latter town being on the
Lee-Jackson Highway.
Young Weyer was a great hunter who enjoyed roaming the fields and
hillsides in search of game. The historian Kercheval tells the story of
the day when Weyer went to find an elusive ground-hog, having previously
set a trap for it. The animal not only had not been captured but for
some time had made a successful getaway with each trap set for it. Weyer
decided to dig for the ground-hog hide-out. "A few moments' labor
brought him to the antechamber of this stupendous cavern, where he found
his traps safely deposited." Not content with eleven pages of flattering
and minute descriptions of every passageway known then, Kercheval used
another page with "Note A" and "Note B" which described later
explorations. This makes interesting reading for those who have either
visited the Caverns or have not had that privilege and plan to see them.
In these accounts he included Congress Hall, The Infernal Regions,
Washington's Hall, The Church, Jefferson's Hall and numerous others.
_The Historical Collections of Virginia_ by Henry Howe gives a vivid
picture of Weyer's Cave and the author further states:
"A foreign traveller who visited the cave at an annual
illumination, has, in a finely written description, the
following notice:
" ... Weyer's Cave is in my judgment one of the great natural
wonders of this new world; and for its eminence in its own
class, deserves to be ranked with the Natural Bridge and
Niagara, while it is far less known than either.... For myself,
I acknowledge the spectacle to have been most interesting; but,
to be so, it must be illuminated, as on this occasion. I had
thought that this circumstance might give to the whole a toyish
effect; but the influence of 2,000 or 3,000 lights on these
immense caverns is only such as to reveal the objects, without
disturbing the solemn and sublime obscurity which sleeps on
everything. Scarcely any scenes can awaken so many passions at
once, and so deeply. Curiosity, apprehension, terror, surprise,
admiration, and delight, by turns and together, arrest and
possess you. I have had before, from other objects, one simple
impression made with greater power; but I never had so many
impressions made, and with so much power, before. If the
interesting and the awful are the elements of the sublime, here
sublimity reigns, as in her own domain, in darkness, silence,
and deeps profound."
Bear in mind that this account was given long before 1850 and that Grand
Caverns was first known as Weyer's Cave.
We learned that the Cave was used as a source of income by its owners
first in 1836, when the large chambers were converted into temporary
dance halls for the countryside youth. Mentioned above is the fact that
the caverns were lighted once a year and admission was charged on this
occasion. About 1925 the passages were lighted properly and tourists
began their trek to this wonder of nature.
A modern note is to be found in the name "Linbergh Bridge"--one not
mentioned as such by any of the early writers!
MASSANETTA SPRINGS
One of the most delightful places in all the Valley is Massanetta
Springs. It is one of those beauty spots which one finds after going
through Swift Run Gap, famous for being the first gap through which came
the English with Governor Spotswood and his Knights of the Golden
Horseshoe. It was through here, too, that General George Washington
passed on horseback in 1784.
Long ago these springs were known as Taylor Springs and during the War
Between the States the wounded soldiers were cared for there. Many
famous people lived in and around this lovely spring. We are told that
Daniel Boone's wife lived near here, and that Abraham Lincoln's father,
Thomas Lincoln, was born not more than twelve miles away on Linville
Creek. Not far away is Singer's Glen where some of the first early
American hymns and songs were published.
Today various religious denominations hold summer conferences at the
Springs.
Staunton
Near Lewis's Fort a settlement grew up and in 1749 a town was chartered.
It was named Staunton in honor of Lady Staunton, wife of Governor Gooch,
the official who had given so many land grants to Lewis and his Scotch
neighbors. At that time, the town was the county-seat of Augusta (formed
from Orange County in 1738), whose boundaries swept far to the west. Old
records show that one time the court adjourned in Staunton and
reconvened at Fort Duquesne, the colonial outpost which has long since
become Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.
If one would search further, he would find this was done during the
French and Indian troubles. Five Chiefs, or rather several of the Five
Nations, signed this order or treaty and it is to be seen among other
historical documents in the Court House in Staunton.
After the Legislature fled from Charlottesville to Staunton during
Tarleton's Raid, that body met and held its sessions in old Trinity
Episcopal Church. During this short time, Staunton was called "the
Capital of Virginia."
The area around Staunton is full of War Between the States history too,
referred to in other places.
Woodrow Wilson was born here in a lovely old Presbyterian manse which is
now a shrine to one of the greatest Presidents of the United States.
Here, annually, thousands of Americans come to honor him.
[Illustration:--_Courtesy Virginia State Chamber of Commerce_
"THE MANSE"
WOODROW WILSON'S BIRTHPLACE, STAUNTON, VA.]
The town is a center of culture, for there are located many splendid
schools; among them, for girls are Mary Baldwin and Stuart Hall.
Staunton Military Academy and nearby Augusta Military Academy are
recognized as outstanding schools for boys. There are two business
schools, Dunsmore and Templeton Business College. The one for the deaf
and blind is a State institution.
Tarleton entered Charlottesville on the fourth day of June in 1781.
Jefferson's term as governor expired four days later. Ex-Governor
Patrick Henry had been his guest while the Legislature was meeting
there. He now hastened to Staunton where the Legislators had fled from
Charlottesville. Mr. Jefferson, according to one historian, concealed
himself in a cave in Carter's Mountain and Patrick Henry, in his flight
to Staunton, met Colonel Lewis and told him of how the Legislators had
fled Charlottesville upon Tarleton's invasion.
Colonel Lewis, not knowing who Patrick Henry was, replied "If Patrick
Henry had been in Albemarle, the British Dragoons never would have
passed over the Rivanna River."
The Legislators were badly demoralized, for they feared Tarleton would
come to Staunton. Many of them left during the night and went to the
hospitable home of Colonel George Moffett. During Mr. Henry's hasty
changes he had the misfortune to lose one of his boots. While eating
breakfast the next morning, Mrs. Moffett remarked, "There was one member
of the Legislative body whom I knew would not run." The question was
asked by one of the party, "Who is he?" Her reply was, "Patrick Henry,"
at that moment a gentleman with one boot colored perceptibly. The party
soon left and after their departure a servant rode up and asked for Mr.
Henry, saying he had forgotten his boot. Of course Mrs. Moffett knew
whom the boot fitted.
A tale made more popular perhaps because of a recent revival of interest
in Salem witchcraft is that of a woman who lived years ago in Augusta
County and who was a great aunt of Governor James McDowell of Rockbridge
County. She was born Mary McDowell and married James Greenlee.
It is recounted that she was an unusually attractive and intelligent
young woman but was considered highly eccentric in her behavior.
Neighbors thought that an early love affair had contributed something to
her peculiar manner. Be that as it may, she was regarded by her
acquaintances as a witch. They believed she had made a written contract
with the devil--a contract drawn up in duplicate form so that each party
might retain a copy!
Once at a quilting party in her home she urged one of the quilters to
take a second piece of cake and laughingly remarked that "the mare that
does double work should be best fed." The women misconstrued this to be
an acknowledgment that she was a witch who rode a mare at night on her
excursions to meet the devil. The rumor of her evil activities rapidly
spread throughout the countryside.
[Illustration:--_Courtesy Virginia State Chamber of Commerce_
WOODROW WILSON'S BED, STAUNTON, VA.]
The neighborhood thought she was capable of placing curses upon them and
attributed such tragedies as fires, loss of family or stock, or poor
crops to the unfortunate woman.
The fact that she was never brought before the court with the accusation
of being a witch was due in large measure to the standing of the family.
That does not mean, however, that Mrs. Greenlee did not live a wretched
existence or that failure to declare her a witch made the people less
afraid of her powers.
While he was President of the United States, Woodrow Wilson returned to
Staunton and placed a tablet on the wall of the First Presbyterian
Church in memory of his father, Dr. Joseph Wilson, a former minister.
The church in which Dr. Wilson used to preach and in which the President
was christened serves now as the Chapel of Mary Baldwin College.
An interesting old home in Staunton is the Stuart House, located on
Lewis Street. It was planned by the great architect and builder Thomas
Jefferson. Mr. A. H. Stuart, the owner, was a member of President
Fillmore's Cabinet.
The main building of the School for the Deaf and Blind is an unexcelled
example of Doric architecture. During the War Between the States it was
used as a hospital.
Waynesboro and Afton
"Mad Anthony Wayne," the Revolutionary hero, has a town named for him in
Virginia--Waynesboro. This is a beautiful place which has become even
more popular upon completion of the projected Skyline Drive southward
from Swift Run Gap.
The State Conservation Commission has erected an historical marker which
states briefly: