Cave," Franklin Lincoln, grandson of Jacob and a cousin of President
Lincoln, entered the caverns and, by the light of torches or candles,
carved his name and the date. He later fought in the Civil War as a
Confederate soldier.
Also in these caverns is carved the name of John Lincoln, possibly John
Lincoln, Jr., who was one of Jacob's four brothers, or perhaps "Virginia
John" the pioneer, great-grandfather of the President. There is no date
carved by the name of John Lincoln.
In April, 1862, during the Civil War, a Federal soldier drew a rough
portrait of President Lincoln with charcoal upon a wall farther back in
the caverns. These Lincoln signatures and this crude portrait can be
distinctly seen in Melrose Caverns by visitors today.
New Market
A little later in becoming settled than other Valley towns was New
Market, the progressive little place situated at the intersection of the
Valley Pike and Route 211 to Luray. Its charter was granted in 1785 as
the result of efforts made by Peter Palsel, an early settler.
Thomas Jefferson's father, Peter Jefferson, was among the party of
surveyors who ran the land grant boundary for the Proprietor of the
Northern Neck, Lord Fairfax. This was done in 1746. The old line is a
short distance south of New Market.
The town was the scene in 1864 of the battle in which the young and
inexperienced but dauntless cadets from the Virginia Military Institute
at Lexington took such prominent part. The wounded from their ranks were
cared for by devoted women in nearby houses. And what a percentage there
was either wounded or killed! Forty-six of the former and eight of the
latter out of a corps of only two hundred and twenty-one!
New Market is the center today of the caverns in the Valley, for
Shenandoah Caverns are to the north and Endless to the south, while
within a short drive you may reach Luray, Massanutten, Melrose and Grand
Caverns. Accommodations for the tourists are numerous and fair
throughout the vicinity.
Several years ago a re-enactment of the Battle of New Market occurred in
which the corps from the Virginia Military Institute pitted their
strength against the United States Marines. Among the spectators to this
stirring War Between the States encounter was the Secretary of the Navy.
He was impressed with the majesty of the Shenandoah Valley and the
legend of the name. Later he determined to name the new navy dirigible
Shenandoah--"The Daughter of the Stars." For her christening a bottle of
water from the meandering Shenandoah River was used. And on her maiden
flight from her berth at Lakehurst the graceful ship flew over the
lovely, peaceful Valley from whence came her name.
ENDLESS CAVERNS
On the first of October, 1879 two boys went hunting. Their dog chased a
rabbit up the long slope of Mr. Reuben Zirkle's pasture. The rabbit ran
for his life and disappeared over a huge rock.
[Illustration: "THE CYPRESS GARDENS", A SCENE IN ENDLESS CAVERNS]
The boys gave chase and boy-like, when they reached the rock and found
no rabbit, they pushed aside the heavy stone. Imagine how their eyes
bulged when they looked down into a great hole in the hill. Here was a
find! Here was adventure, for who can resist exploring a cave? The boys
thought no longer of the rabbit. They went in search of candles and a
rope. Soon they were seeing for the first time the lovely and strange
kingdom underground.
The boys, no doubt like visitors, wondered how Nature had carved these
miracles. Today science has answered the question for us and for the
sake of those inquiring minds we will give in part the story of how
Mother Nature builds her caves.
"Thousands and thousands of years of surface waters, seeping down
through the earth, have dissolved and carried away the limestone rock
through various tiny cracks and crevices. As each drop worked its way
downward it carried coloring matter--iron, maybe copper, which tints the
beautiful columns. Tiny bits of limestone formed and gradually built
them up from the bottom; these are called stalagmites. Others slowly
forming from the tops of the cave hung there and are termed stalactites.
Then through the years these grew until they met and formed the arches
and columns."
Though explorations were carried on for several years no end to the
rooms was seen. One channel after another was found, and one room after
another came into view, hence the name Endless Caverns.
People from far and near came to see the wonders, and dances were held
in Alexander's Ballroom. The musicians had a high rock on which they
played their fiddles. Huge iron circles were fastened to the ceiling and
candles placed in them for lights. One night one of the bold boys took a
candle and pushed farther into the cave. By the weird light he saw a
glistening lake, sparkling like diamonds. Upon investigation it turned
out to be a pool of clearest water and it reflected the white glittering
crystal roof which sheltered it. The name "Diamond Lake" was given it
and it has been admired by thousands of visitors.
Then for thirty years the beautiful caverns were closed to the public. A
party of visitors came to the Valley. Colonel Edward Brown who stopped
in New Market was fascinated with the stories of the old caverns. He
bought the property and the next year the caverns were opened--in 1920.
Today his son, Major E. M. Brown, is the progressive owner.
"The old entrance house has been replaced by a unique cave house built
of limestone boulders from the mountain side. Great gates of
hand-wrought iron bar the head of the stone steps which lead downward. A
lone lantern hangs from the arch of the stone roof and accurately
placed, at the exact center of the top of the entrance, is a huge
boulder in the shape of a keystone, set there by the Architect of all
the earth many thousands of years ago."
No one can describe the beautiful shapes and designs to be found in the
caverns. They must be seen to be appreciated fully and no matter how
many caves one has seen, he will not regret the magic time spent here.
Luray
The question is often asked as to the origin of the unusual name of the
town of Luray. Legend disagrees as to its derivation. There are some who
claim it came from the name of an early settler, Lewis Ramey. He was
familiarly known as Lew Ramey and the contraction Lew Ray might have
followed naturally. The site of Ramey's little log cabin is at the
corner of Main and Court streets.
Some citizens of the town insist that the Huguenots who escaped from
France and finally migrated to the Valley named the new settlement
Lorraine after their province in France and that Luray is a corruption
of the former name.
There are reminders near this town of former years of struggle. During
the French and Indian War the settlers decided upon building "cellar
forts" for protection against Indian raids. These cellars dug under the
log homes were large enough for living quarters and were generally
supplied with a spring of water. They were so constructed with rocks
serving as a ceiling that even in case of fire in the house proper, the
occupants of the cellar would be unhurt. Several of these ingenious
little fortifications remain in Page County, Rhodes Fort and the Egypt
House being good examples of them.
In the Hawksbill neighborhood, not far from Luray, there lived a long
time ago John Stone and his family. In 1758 the Indians came to his home
while he was away. They had little difficulty in carrying off Mrs.
Stone and her baby, a son about eight years old and another boy, George
Grandstaff, who was sixteen.
The marauders sacked other residences in the neighborhood and killed a
number of persons. It is possible that when they set out for their own
settlements some distance off they found Mrs. Stone's progress impeded
because of carrying the baby. At any rate, they murdered those two and
continued on their way with the boys.
Three years later Grandstaff escaped as their prisoner and returned to
Mr. Stone. Young Stone remained with the savages for a number of years
and when he did come home he sold his father's property and with the
money in his pockets he went back to the Indian village. No one ever
heard of him afterwards.
Luray was laid out in 1812 by William Staige Marye, son of Peter Marye,
who built the first turnpike--a toll-road--to cross the Blue Ridge from
Culpeper into the Shenandoah Valley. Near Luray is the Saltpetre Cave.
During the War Between the States the Confederates established a nitrate
plant there and used the products in their manufacture of ammunition.
One of the most beautiful drives in Virginia is that leaving Luray,
crossing the mountain and entering the Valley Pike at New Market.
Of particular importance to this section are the Luray Caverns. An
entertaining history is attached to them. As far back as 1793 there was
knowledge of the existence of the caves, for Joseph Ruffner's son had
explored several passages just about this time. Ruffner's property took
on the name of Cave Hill.
The Ruffners were among the largest landowners in the Valley, their
property extending twelve miles on both sides of Hawksbill Creek. They
received a part of the land through inheritance and bought other tracts.
Dr. Henry Ruffner, a member of this distinguished family, was at one
time President of Washington College, now Washington and Lee University
at Lexington.
Fighting during the War Between the States occurred near the town of
Luray and about two miles south on the Lee Highway there is an old oak
tree which marks the place where Sheridan's famous Valley ride was
halted for a time.
There are interesting landmarks remaining in the town today which have
witnessed the pageant of history, among the most pretentious being
"Aventine." This home originally occupied the present site of the
Mymslyn Hotel.
Stonewall Jackson's Valley Campaign
Too much space must not be consumed in this book in presenting the facts
regarding Jackson's Valley Campaign. We feel justified in devoting more
than a comment to this notable feat of war, however, for some of the
heaviest fighting of the four years' conflict took place on the land you
may see in driving over the Valley Pike and along the Skyline Drive.
At the outbreak of hostilities in the War Between the States Thomas
Jackson left the chair of higher mathematics at the Virginia Military
Institute and volunteered his services in the Virginia army. Educated at
West Point and trained during the Mexican War he was a welcome addition
to the Confederate forces, although no one anticipated the conspicuous
role he would play in the subsequent events. At the early battle of
First Manassas he earned the name of "Stonewall" because of his quiet,
dignified and unafraid manner in the face of danger.
Lt. Col. C. F. R. Henderson's invaluable two volumes, _Stonewall Jackson
and the American Civil War_, were consulted and are the source quoted
hereafter in giving the account of the Valley warfare. The First Brigade
of the Virginia army was recruited from the Valley and participated
under Jackson in the first battle of Manassas and for a long period of
time thereafter.
"No better material for soldiers ever existed," said Henderson,
"than the men of the Valley. Most of them were of Scotch-Irish
descent, but from the more northern counties came many of
English blood, and from those in the center of Swiss and
German. But whatever their origin, they were thoroughly well
qualified for their new trade. All classes mingled in the
ranks, and all ages; the heirs of the oldest families, and the
humblest of the sons of toil; boys whom it was impossible to
keep in school, and men whose white beards hung below their
cross belts; youths who had been reared in luxury, and rough
hunters from their lonely cabins. They were a mountain people,
nurtured in a wholesome climate bred to manly sports, and
hardened by the free life of the field and forest. To social
distinctions they gave little heed. They were united for a
common purpose; they had taken arms to defend Virginia and to
maintain her rights; and their patriotism was proved by the
sacrifice of all personal consideration and individual
interest."
After the first battle of Manassas the First Brigade was known as the
"Stonewall Brigade."
From July to November, 1861, Jackson spent the greater part of every day
drilling the men under him and in trying to convert them into
well-disciplined, obedient troops. During the first week in November he
was sent from Manassas to command the Shenandoah Valley district and
this meant parting from the soldiers whom he had reason to admire and
who in turn held him in highest esteem. A short time later they were
destined to reunite under circumstances which would try the courage of
the brigade and commander. To the delight of all, the Stonewall Brigade
was assigned to Winchester soon after Jackson established his
headquarters there and for the next few months rigid training was given
them again.
About the middle of March 1862, Jackson abandoned Winchester. This was
after some of the Union concentration near Manassas and Centreville was
broken up and General Banks made no move to offer battle, so the
Confederates withdrew without a fight and occupied Strasburg eighteen or
twenty miles southward. The evacuation of Winchester was made
reluctantly, for good roads in each direction connected the city with
outlying districts, fertile farms nearby could furnish the invading army
with rations and Banks could receive from or send troops to West
Virginia or the army south of Washington. Feeling that Jackson's small
force was not of any special danger, Shields' corps was sent in pursuit
of the Confederates and most of Banks' troops were ordered to another
field. Jackson continued up the Valley and stopped at Mount Jackson,
hoping the Federals would follow.
The Confederate general learned from Ashby, his cavalry commander, that
the enemy was retreating. It was Lee's intention that the Union corps in
the Valley be retained there so that assistance could not be offered
McClellan, the Northern general who was maneuvering in the eastern part
of Virginia with the ultimate aim of striking Richmond. McClellan hoped
to attack the capital of the Confederacy by combining his army with
that of McDowell, whom he could call to the area of war when necessary.
So it was to be Jackson's duty to keep them in the Valley and perhaps to
withdraw some of the Northern troops from near Richmond.
On March 22nd Ashby with his troopers and a few guns engaged Shields in
a skirmish just south of Winchester. He believed there was only a small
force of Federals present, so well had Shields hidden his men, and he
reported to Jackson that the troops were small in number. The next day
Jackson sent reinforcements to Ashby and then followed later with his
whole force in the direction of Kernstown which is south of Winchester
and but a short distance off. There the battle of Kernstown began and
continued until dark. Jackson's troops were defeated and retreated
southward. As a result of this encounter Shields was reinforced and the
strong Union force remained in the Valley.
The Federal generals were apparently satisfied with the victory and in
spite of urgings from the Secretary of War, Stanton, to pursue Jackson
they remained inactive for nearly a month.
Banks assumed the offensive on April 17th, and surprised Ashby, taking
one of his companies prisoner. The Virginians burned the railroad
station at Mount Jackson and fell back while the Union cavalry
established themselves at New Market.
The Confederate General Ewell had a force of 8,000 men on the Upper
Rappahannock which is some distance east of the mountains. This corps
was left at its location in order to rush to the defense of
Fredericksburg or Richmond or across the mountains to the Valley.
Jackson knew that he must not allow Banks to control the mountain pass,
thus severing communication between the two Confederate forces. He
determined upon a forced march for his men and on the eighteenth they
reached Harrisonburg. He continued over to Swift Run Gap and encamped
near there.
Banks followed his cavalry to New Market, crossed over to Luray and
seized the bridges, driving back a detachment of Jackson's men sent
there to defend them. Later he sent two of his five brigades to
Harrisonburg and the rest stayed at New Market.
Jackson's next move was to McDowell, a town about twenty-seven miles
northwest of Harrisonburg. The march was made in the most circuitous
manner: from Swift Run Gap to Port Republic, to Brown's Gap which is
about twelve miles southeast of their camp at Elk Run Valley, to
Staunton and then west to McDowell. This strategy was used so that he
might deceive Banks, Fremont and Milroy, the Federal commanders in and
near the Valley, into thinking for a while that he was leaving the
Valley to join forces at Richmond. Jackson proposed to strike each Union
force located in this section of Virginia but he believed an encounter
with Milroy commanding the weakest corps should be made before attacking
Banks. The Battle of McDowell occurred on May 8th, and was a victory for
Jackson. He followed the enemy in their retreat as far as Franklin. A
squadron of Ashby's cavalry spent much time in blocking any of the
passes which Fremont might use in crossing the mountains to reinforce
Banks. Bridges were burned and rocks and trees were placed across the
roadways. Jackson's object was thus thoroughly achieved:
"All combination between the Federal columns, except by long
and devious routes, had now been rendered impracticable; and
there was little fear that in any operations down the Valley
his own communications would be endangered. The McDowell
expedition had neutralized, for the time being, Fremont's
20,000 men; and Banks was now isolated, exposed to the combined
attack of Jackson, Ewell and Edward Johnson."
Ewell in the meantime had left his post near Gordonsville and had moved
into Swift Run Gap in order to go to Jackson if necessary. After the
Battle of McDowell, Jackson returned to the Valley. Lee ordered him to
make a movement against Banks as speedily as possible, to drive him
towards Washington and appear ready to attack the Union capital. Thus he
hoped to see some of the Northerners leave the vicinity of Richmond and
return to defend their capital.
Jackson entered the Valley at Mount Solon and pushed northward at once.
Banks erected earthworks at Strasburg and considered himself well
entrenched against the enemy. Ewell, with his Confederates, left Swift
Run Gap and moved to Luray. Jackson moved north to New Market. The
Confederates now organized into two divisions, Jackson's and Ewell's,
numbering about 17,000 men. The troops under Jackson instead of
continuing northward in their march turned east and crossed the
Massanutten Mountain and headed north. On May 22nd the advanced guard
camped within ten miles of Front Royal. This town was "held by a strong
detachment of Banks' small army."
"Since they had left Mount Solon and Elk Run Valley on May 19th
the troops in four days had made just sixty miles. Such
celerity of movement was unfamiliar to both Banks and Stanton,
and on the night of the 22nd neither the Secretary nor the
General had the faintest suspicion that the enemy had as yet
passed Harrisonburg.... There was serenity at Washington....
The Secretary, ... saw no reason for alarm. His strategical
combinations were apparently working without a hitch....
Milroy's defeat was considered no more than an incident of 'la
petite guerre'. Washington seemed so perfectly secure that the
recruiting offices had been closed, and the President and
Secretary, anticipating the immediate fall of Richmond, left
for Fredericksburg the next day. McDowell was to march on the
26th, and the departure of his fine army was to be preceded by
a grand review....
"So on this night of May 22nd the President and his people were
without fear of what the morrow might bring forth. The end of
the rebellion seemed near at hand. Washington was full of the
anticipated triumph. The crowds passed to and fro exchanging
congratulations on the success of the Northern arms and the
approaching downfall of the slaveholders.... Little dreamt the
light-hearted multitude that, in the silent woods of the Luray
Valley, a Confederate army lay asleep beneath the stars. Little
dreamt Lincoln, or Banks, or Stanton, that not more than
seventy miles from Washington, and less than thirty from
Strasburg, the most daring of the enemies, waiting for the dawn
to rise above the mountains was pouring out his soul in
prayer."
Banks' 10,000 men were distributed in this manner: at Strasburg the
largest contingent, at Winchester a small group of infantry and cavalry,
with two companies of infantry at Newtown, midway between Strasburg and
Front Royal. At Rectortown, nineteen miles east of Front Royal was
General Geary with 2,000 infantry and cavalry independent of Banks.
Front Royal was held by Colonel Kenly of the First Maryland Regiment, U.
S. A. On the morning of May 23rd the Confederates struck Kenly's small
force. Every line of communication and reinforcement had been severed
during the previous night and "within an hour after his pickets were
surprised Kenly was completely isolated."
Banks moved north from Strasburg towards Winchester before Jackson could
scatter his troops along the route and cut off his retreat. Encounters
took place at Newtown and Middletown and Kernstown during the early
morning of May 24th. The battle of Winchester occurred the following
day. Particularly hard fighting was done by both sides, but the surprise
movements of Jackson during the past few days, the partial
demoralization of the Union forces and the keen fighting of the
Confederate divisions drove Banks' army from Winchester and on to
Martinsburg.
Lee sent instructions to Jackson to threaten an invasion of Maryland and
an attack upon Washington at this excellent time. So on the 28th the
Stonewall Brigade set out towards Harper's Ferry and at Charlestown they
met a Federal force, routing them within twenty minutes. Ewell came up
to support the Brigade and on the 29th the army of the Valley was
encamped near Halltown. The greater part of the Federals crossed the
Potomac River at Harper's Ferry. Jackson, however, learned that the
Union soldiers were advancing to cut off his retreat; Shields' division
was approaching Manassas Gap and Fremont had left Franklin and was about
ten miles from Moorefield. Jackson felt that Lee's orders had been
carried out and decided to retreat along the Valley Pike. The
Southerners turned southward towards Winchester. En route Jackson found
out that the small force left at Front Royal had been driven back and
that Shields occupied the town. The Valley army was ordered to
Strasburg, the First Brigade was called back from Charlestown, the
prisoners and supplies were picked up at Winchester and moved southward.
"From the morning of May 19 to the night of June 1, a period of fourteen
days, the Army of the Valley had marched one hundred and seventy miles,
had routed a force of 12,500 men, had threatened the North with
invasions, had drawn off McDowell from Fredericksburg, had seized the
hospitals and supply depots at Front Royal, Winchester, and Martinsburg,
and finally, although surrounded on three sides by 60,000 men, had
brought off a huge convoy without losing a single wagon."
When the Federals learned that Jackson had moved south Shields was sent
towards Luray from Front Royal. Fremont moved towards Woodstock. The
Federal cavalry reached Luray on June 2nd and found that the enemy had
already been there and burned the bridges, thus cutting off their
approach to New Market. A part of the Confederates were repulsed on June
2nd between Strasburg and Woodstock and the skirmishing continued the
next day with the Confederates retreating to Mount Jackson and burning
the bridges over the North Fork of the Shenandoah River. The Union
troops tried to construct their pontoons across the stream but a driving
rain and high waters prevented their doing so. This failure gave the
rebels a day's respite.
Jackson with his force passed from Harrisonburg over to Cross Keys and
there bivouacked. The Northern generals looked upon this move as a
retreat.