At point 1, lay the two last pairs to the right = put up a pin = make a
plait to point 6 = add 2 pairs of bobbins = 1 double passing = put up a
pin = make a plait to point 7 with a pairs of bobbins = add 2 pairs of
bobbins = 1 double passing = put up the pin = make a plait to point 8 =
add 4 pairs of bobbins = 5 linen passings = put up a pin at the last
passing = at point 9 add 2 pairs of bobbins = make a plait = put up a
pin = join to point 8 with linen passing = make plaits from point 9 to
point 10 = put up a pin = leave the pairs hanging = 5 linen passings
with the bobbins of point 10 = put up the pin at point 11 = go back to
point 10 with 5 passings = put up the pin = make a plait and tie up the
bobbins at point 6 = leave these bobbins hanging down.
With the two first pairs at point 11, make a plait to point 12 = 1 linen
passing at point 7 and join to point 12 by a plait = plait stitch = put
up a pin = then plait stitch to point 13 and make the same connection as
at points 12 and 7 = continue to plait to point 14 = put up the pin at
the first pair = 7 linen passings = leave these bobbins hanging down =
tie up the plait of point 5 with the 1st pair of point 4 = make a plait
on the left = put up a pin at point 15 = make 5 linen passings on the
right and put up the pin at point 16 = make a plait to point 17 = make
the same connection as at point 7 and 12 = the same connection also at
point 18 = make a plait to point 19 = put up the pin = make a plaited
lozenge with one pair = leave 2 pairs hanging at point 20, left and
right = continue to point 21 = leave 2 pairs hanging, left and right =
make a plait to point 22 = begin again at point 17 and make a leaf in
lozenge stitch to point 23 = make a second leaf from point 16 to point
23 = join the leaves at point 23 = make a plait with the first pair of
point 16 to point 24 = put up a pin = enclose it with a double passing
and make a plait = tie up the bobbins at point 15 = continue the edge to
point 26 = make a leaf in lozenge stitch from point 32 to point 26 = tie
up the bobbins at point 26 and make linen passings with the united
bobbins to point 27 = with the bobbins of point 18 and point 20,
therefore with 4 pairs, make a square in lozenge stitch = join the 3
leaves at point 23 = from point 23 to point 28 make a plait with the two
first pairs of bobbins = put up a pin at point 28 = make a plait with
picots to point 29 = lozenge stitch from point 32 to point 22 and point
33 = join to point 30 by a plait = plait to point 22 = work from point
34 to 35 in the same way as from point 1 to point 33 = at point 22 and
point 35 the pairs cross each other.
PILLOW LACE (figs. 809 and 810).—Hang on 28 pairs of bobbins. Begin
at point 1 with a plait, fig. 790 = put up a pin = * hang on 5 pairs at
point 2 and put up a pin at the last pair = with the last pair make a
plait to point 3 * = hang on a pair of bobbins = 1 linen passing = hang
on a pair of bobbins = 1 linen passing = hang on 3 pairs of bobbins = 1
linen passing = 3 linen passings = put up a pin = 1 leaf in lozenge
stitch to point 4 = hang on 2 pairs of bobbins = 2 plait stitches = put
up a pin = make a leaf to point 5 = hang on 2 pairs of bobbins = 1 plait
stitch = put up a pin = repeat in the reverse order to point 3.
[Illustration: FIG. 809. PATTERN FOR THE LACE FIG. 810.]
[Illustration: FIG. 810. PILLOW LACE. MATERIAL: Fil à dentelle D.M.C No.
50.[A]]
Put up a pin at point 9 = hang on a pair of bobbins = 1 linen passing =
hang on a pair of bobbins = 1 linen passing = hang on a pair of bobbins
= make a plait to point 11 = put up a pin = hang on 2 pairs of bobbins
at point 12 = make a plait and tie the threads together with those of
point 11 = on the left with 2 pairs, on the right with 3 pairs to point
13 for the edge = put up 2 pins and continue the edge with linen
passings to point 14.
Return to point 15 and make a plait = put up a pin = divide the bobbins
and put one pair on the right, the other on the left = take the bobbins
at point 5 and 7 and make plaits to points 16 and 17 = make linen
passings with the two pairs to point 18 = put up a pin and make a plait
to point 21.
Make leaves in lozenge stitch from points 4 and 8 to points 19 and 20 =
one leaf from point 16 to point 19 = make another leaf to point 22 and
one to point 21 = make the same leaves on the left to points 20, 21 and
23 = cross the bobbins at point 21 = make leaves from point 21 to points
24, 26 and 26.
Make lozenge stitch with picots, with 3 pairs of bobbins from points 9
and 10 to point 22 = join the bobbins to leaf 22 = carry on the braid to
point 26 = join 2 pairs of bobbins to the leaf = leave the 2 pairs at
point 28 hanging down = carry on the braid to point 25.
Make a leaf at point 27 to point 14 = tie the threads together as at
point 10 = carry on the edge to point 29 = put up a pin = make a plait
with picots to point 30 = tie up the threads with those of leaf 28 =
make a leaf to point 31 = introduce the threads into the edge = put up a
pin = tie the threads together.
Make a plait on the left = leave 4 pairs of bobbins hanging down on the
right, 2 pairs for the plait and 2 for the leaf = carry on the edge to
point 32 = leave 2 pairs hanging for another leaf = continue the edge to
point 33. Make a plait from point 21 to point 34.
Begin again on the left at points 1 and 2 and work, as on the right, to
point 35 = cross the threads at point 25 = linen passing = distribute
the pairs to point 36 = 2 pairs at point 37 = 2 at point 38 = 3 pairs
at point 34 = plait to point 37 = join to point 38 = continue the plait
and join to points 36, 35, 39 = at points 35, 36, 37 lozenge stitch with
every 2 pairs of bobbins to point 40 = then join the next 6 pairs
together = and work on with lozenge stitch to point 41 = work exactly in
the same manner at points 31, 32, 34, 35, 39, 42 as at points 36, 37,
38, 40 to 41 = at point 41, all the threads are interwoven, and then
divided into 3 sets = continue the leaves to points 45, 46 and 47. Then
repeat in the reverse order from points 31, 38, 25, 32 and 39.
[Illustration: FIG. 811. ARMENIAN LACE. MATERIALS: Fil à pointer D.M.C
Nos. 10 to 30, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 15 to 40 or Fil à dentelle
D.M.C Nos. 25 to 70. COLOURS: Écru and Brun-Caroubier 303.[A]]
[Illustration: FIG. 812. WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 811.]
ARMENIAN LACE (figs. 811 and 812).—The dresses of the Turkish women
are often ornamented with flowers and leaves, executed in needlework
which take the place of fringe and braid trimmings and are often even
employed as adornments for the neck and arms instead of necklets and
bracelets in metal work; though, as such, they do not always accord with
our Western notions of good taste, the Armenian work is in itself, both
sufficiently interesting and easy of execution, to deserve description
here amongst other kinds of needlework that are adaptable to use. It may
be imitated with capital effect in strong stiff washing materials, such
as those indicated in our illustration, either upon a linen or cotton
foundation or upon plush or silk.
The thread is first drawn into the edge of the stuff; you then carry it
from right to left, determine the length of the squares, and working
from left to right make on this first thread as many knots as you have
room for.
Fig. 812 shows the formation of the knot, the manner in which the
thread, passing from left to right, forms a loop, and how to pass your
needle under the straightly extended thread and through the loop. You
leave a space of one or two m/m. between the knots, according to the
thickness of the thread you are using. Having covered the first thread
with knots, you return to the edge for the next row of knots, but
passing your needle this time under three threads.
The number of knots should be the same in each row, and the four sides
of the square should be all equal.
When the squares are finished they are edged with picots on the two
lower sides, as shown in fig. 812.
Thread of two colours was used for fig. 811, the squares being worked
alternately in Écru and Brun-Caroubier and the picots, all in the latter
colour.
LACE AND INSERTION IN KNOTTED STITCH (fig. 813).—Excepting in the
case of the returning thread, the same stitches are used for the pretty
border and insertion given in fig. 813, as for the Armenian lace.
The stitches that form the insertion are attached, on both sides, to an
English braid, something of the nature of Rhodes linen, which is
open-worked before the knotted work upon it is begun.
As in the preceding figure, two colours are used alternately, the change
from one to the other is distinctly marked in the engraving.
The outside edge consists of light scallops, formed by the regular
increase and decrease of the stitches. The original piece of work from
which our drawing was taken, forms the border of a dark blue plush
carpet; the red and écru hues of the lace harmonize exceedingly well
with the soft colour of the plush.
[Illustration: FIG. 813. LACE AND INSERTION IN KNOTTED STITCH.
MATERIALS: Fil à pointer D.M.C Nos. 10 to 30, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C
Nos. 10 to 25, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50. COLOURS: Écru and
Rouge-Cardinal 46.[A]]
INSERTION IN KNOTTED STITCH (figs. 814 and 815).—This kind of work,
similarly composed of knotted stitches, can be used instead of crochet
insertion or single and cut openwork in linen. It looks exceedingly well
as a trimming for bed and table linen and is executed on foundation
threads or cords, which connect the different figures together, with
closely connected rows of knots between.
[Illustration: FIG. 814. INSERTION IN KNOTTED STITCH. MATERIALS: Fil à
pointer D.M.C No. 30, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 15 to 30, or Fil à
dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50.[A]]
[Illustration: FIG. 815. WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 814.]
INSERTION IN KNOTTED STITCH (figs. 816 and 817).—The mode of making
the insertion in knotted stitch, which is represented in the two
accompanying engravings, is supposed to be of Italian origin, but we
have met with quite as perfect specimens of work done in the same way,
which were the products of Persia and Asia Minor. We have called it by
the same name as the preceding patterns, for even the way in which the
stitch is worked is almost the same. Through some slight difference
however in the interlacing of the threads, shown by the open loops in
fig. 817, the stitches lie closer together and are alike on both sides
of the work.
[Illustration: FIG. 816. INSERTION IN KNOTTED STITCH. MATERIALS: The
same as for fig. 814.[A]]
[Illustration: FIG. 817. WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 816.]
No difficulty will be found in making out the course of the rows; it is
best to begin by the two rows of stitches that form the perpendicular
bars and make the stitches, that compose the 4 staves between the bars
next. For the little picots see fig. 700.
[Illustration: FIG. 818. LACE IN KNOTTED STITCH. MATERIALS: Cordonnet 6
fils D.M.C Nos. 10 to 25 or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 50.[A]]
[Illustration: FIG. 819. WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 818.]
[Illustration: FIG. 820. RETICELLA LACE. MATERIALS—For the open-work:
Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 10 to 100, or Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25
to 150, white or écru. For the bars: Lacets superfins D.M.C Nos. 3 to
8.[A]]
LACE IN KNOTTED STITCH (figs. 818 and 819).—This charming little
lace, which is of Italian origin, was taken from a cushion cover, used
for church purposes. The stitches, made in the order indicated in the
working detail, fig. 819, are overcast at the last with a fleecy thread,
such as Coton à repriser D.M.C, of a rather sober colour, such for
instance as Bleu-Indigo 334, Rouge-Géranium 352, or Jaune-Rouille 363.
You overcast the slanting bars and pass over the stitches that connect
the two picots.
[Illustration: FIG. 821. WORKING DETAIL OF FIG. 820.]
RETICELLA LACE (figs. 820 and 821).—The Reticella laces are generally
made on a design traced upon parchment, similar to those required for
the laces described later on. But as the manner of working has been
modified in the lace represented here, we thought it as well to adopt
the same simplification, often used in beautiful pieces of old
needlework, which consists in substituting a braid made upon a pillow,
for the bars made with the needle.
[Illustration: FIG. 822. VENETIAN LACE.]
[Illustration: FIG. 823. VENETIAN LACE.]
You begin by laying and fastening down the braid by means of very small
stitches upon the lines of the pattern, which should be traced upon
black paper; you next proceed to make the centre bars, covered with
plain button-hole stitches, on which you mount a row of stitches, like
those of fig. 755; these are followed by another bar, to make which, you
pick up the loop of the stitches of the preceding row and by another row
like the second, finished off with picots, like those illustrated in
fig. 700. The bases of the pyramids likewise consist of bars,
button-holed on both sides and edged on the inside with picots.
The stitches of the first row should not be too close together, that
there may be room for those of the second row between, as we have
already explained in fig. 702, in the chapter on Irish lace.
The inside of the pyramids is worked in the stitch represented in fig.
755, the picots round them are like the ones in fig. 599.
[Illustration: FIG. 824. VENETIAN LACE.]
[Illustration: FIG. 825. VENETIAN LACE.]
The lace, represented in fig. 820 in its original size, was worked in
Fil à dentelle D.M.C No. 80, whilst the second engraving, representing
the same subject, shows us how perfectly well it can also be made in
heavier and coarser materials, these being in this instance, Lacets
superfins D.M.C No. 4 and Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 20.
VENETIAN LACES (figs. 822, 823, 824, 825, 826, 827, 828).—Under the
name of «Venetian point» are comprised, not only certain kinds of pillow
lace, but even more generally, the beautiful needle-made lace, the
outlines of which are bordered with handsome scallops in high relief.
We shall confine our attention in the present instance to the
needle-made Venetian lace as the other can be learnt without any great
difficulty by following the instructions already given for the making of
pillow lace.
[Illustration: FIG. 826. VENETIAN LACE.]
[Illustration: FIG. 827. VENETIAN LACE.]
The preparation of the pattern, in most kinds of needlework, is a most
important matter and one requiring the greatest care, but in the case of
needle-made lace and pillow lace the processes are different.
The paper on which the design is traced must first be backed or lined
with unglazed black paper (made specially for this purpose). Prick holes
all along the lines of the pattern, at exactly the same distance from
each other, remove the tracing and tack the black paper upon rather
coarse linen.
This done, you take from three to five lengths of the thread of which
the lace is to be made, lay them down together upon the lines marked by
the prickings and secure them at each hole by a stitch made over the
threads.
Fig. 822, with the others of the same series in their natural size, show
the proper distance that should be left between the prickings, and the
laying down of the threads begun; whilst in fig. 823, we have the
threads laid down throughout, even for the little eyelet holes, which
are to be open-worked afterwards.
[Illustration: Fig. 828. VENETIAN LACE. MATERIALS—For the open
stitches: Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 100 to 200. For the outlining and
for the padding: Coton surfin D.M.C Nos. 120 to 150.[A]]
When all this preliminary work is finished, the pattern is ready for the
lace stitches that are to form the filling in, between the raised
outlines. In order to keep your work perfectly clean and preserve it
from unnecessary contact with your fingers, cover all those parts of the
pattern you are not immediately engaged on, with a piece of blue paper
with a hole, about the size of a pea, cut in it. This you move along as
you go, working only at the part of the pattern which is visible through
the hole, keeping all the rest carefully covered up and sewing paper
over each part as soon as it is finished; this should not be removed
until you are ready to join all the separate parts together with bars or
latticed ground and work the button-hole edges.
All the different lace stitches that are used as fillings must be begun
and fastened off at the outline threads, which you must be careful not
to drag out of their place.
We again remark, for the benefit of those of our readers who may not
have read the preceding chapter attentively, that in working all the
finer lace stitches, the needle should be held with the eye towards the
worker and the point turned outwards. All the inside portions of the
pattern have to be worked in separately; (for a choice of stitches to
serve as fillings see figs. 720 to 762) until all the spaces are filled,
as represented in figs. 825 and 826. The stitches should be selected as
far as possible, to suit the style of the design. Flowers look best
worked in an open or lattice stitch, leaves on the other hand in a thick
close stitch.
When all the insides are done, the edges and outlines have to be closely
button-holed.
The old Venetian laces are bordered with scallops in high relief, worked
over a thick pad of laid threads, as described on p. 83, fig. 191,
relating to Venetian embroidery.
[Illustration: Fig. 829. VENETIAN LACE WITH NET GROUND.
MATERIALS—For the open stitches: Fil à dentelle D.M.C Nos. 100 to
200.—For the outlining and for the padding: Coton surfin D.M.C Nos. 120
to 150.]
VENETIAN LACE WITH NET GROUND (fig. 829).—The outlining of the
figures with several strands of Coton surfin D.M.C, should, in the case
of detached pieces of lace, be done at once, but where the figures are
connected by bars or by a net ground as in fig. 825, the button-holed
outlines should be done last. Thus in making the lace, fig. 829, you
should begin by working all the insides of the flowers and foliage, then
the net ground which may be replaced by bars with picots and then only
proceed to the outside button-holing and the scallops.
As all this kind of lace-work is very laborious and takes a long time to
do, we advise our readers to use thread that is slightly tinted; in the
first place it does not turn yellow as white thread is liable to do and
secondly, being softer and less twisted it takes every bend and turn
more readily than the stiffer white material does.
Of all the different kinds of thread, so frequently alluded to in these
pages, the higher numbers of Fil d’Alsace D.M.C and Fil à dentelle D.M.C
are the best for the finer kinds of lace, and they all have the soft
ivory tint, we so admire in the old needlework.
[Illustration: FIG. 830. SPRAY IN NEEDLE-POINT. MATERIALS—For the open
stitches: Fil à dentelle D.M.C No. 200.—For the outlining: Coton surfin
D.M.C Nos. 120 to 150.[A]]
SPRAY IN NEEDLE-POINT (fig. 830).—Needle-point lace, also called
Brussels lace, requires the same preparatory work as Venetian lace; but
it seldom contains such a variety of stitches and openwork as the
latter.
The flowers are generally worked in one of the stitches, represented in
figs. 720 and 740; the outlines are less thickly button-holed and the
stitches, set everywhere less closely.
Here also, the finished parts should be carefully covered with paper to
keep them from getting soiled.
The needle-point lace designs are ordinarily speaking more realistic and
as regards the composition, less artistic and severe than the Venetian
point ones.
The spray, represented in our engraving, is a specimen of an ordinary
Brussels lace pattern and of the stitches it is worked in.