THE DISCOVERY OF PORT PHILLIP.
On leaving King Island, Murray, on January 30th (civil time),* (* In this
chapter civil time is given in the author's observations. The time in the
logs throughout is according to nautical reckoning, i.e. the day
beginning at noon before the civil reckoning.) returned again to Western
Port and next day, at 4 A.M. he sent Mr. Bowen with 5 men in the launch
to examine the harbour to the westward which is now known as Port Phillip
and at the head of which stands the city of Melbourne. On Wednesday the
launch returned and the first mate reported that he had found a good
channel into the harbour which was "a most noble sheet of water." He also
reported that he saw no natives but only their huts. Shortly afterwards
Murray himself entered the newly discovered Port in the Lady Nelson.
Murray arrived there on February 14th and anchored at 3.30 P.M. in a
sandy cove off a point of the shore which lay distant a quarter of a mile
to the south-west. He named a high mountain Arthur's Seat; a cluster of
islands where black swans were plentiful Swan Isles; a bold rocky point
to the east-south-east Point Paterson and a long sandy point Point
Palmer.
The chart of Port Phillip (Illustration 11) is possibly a reproduction of
the track of the Lady Nelson's boat when the bay was explored for the
first time. Arthur's Seat and Watering Place apparently are the only
names placed on it by Murray* (* It is preserved at the Admiralty.) as
Swan Pond and "Point Repear" are in a different handwriting. At "Point
Repear" the long boat of the Lady Nelson may have been repaired or the
name may have been written in mistake for Point Nepean, also named by
Murray.
The following entries describe his coming to Port Phillip.
"Wednesday, January 27th. From noon till 8 P.M. variable winds, hot
sultry weather, dull fiery sky and so thick that we could not see above a
mile ahead; kept making for Cape Albany (Otway). At 8 short sail and hove
to...at 4 A.M. the wind settled into a westerly gale attended with heavy
squalls and rain. By 9 A.M. it turned into a clear gale and a very high
sea up which makes us labour a good deal. Had altitude longitude by then
143 degrees 13 minutes 40 seconds, these agree with the dead reckoning
within 3 or 4 miles. Latitude 39 degrees 12 minutes 33 seconds. This
weather has again rendered abortive my plan of getting the direct line of
bearing and distance between Cape Farewell and Cape Albany Otway. I shall
only observe that I never experienced such length of bad weather at any
time of year or in any country since I sailed the seas.
"Saturday, January 30th. At half-past 9 A.M. the north point of land bore
north distant 12 miles--made sail for it. At 10 A.M. perceived with
surprise that it was Cape Shanks and Grant's Point instead of Cape
Albany. I now judged it prudent to send our boat down to overhaul for a
channel into the harbour mentioned in the Log of the 5th of this month,
accordingly stood in for it and by noon Cape Shanks bore north-west
distant 6 or 7 miles and Grant's Point north-east by east 10 or 11 miles.
We had a very heavy swell and perceived the surf about Seal Islands
breaking in a fearful manner; sounded every hour.
"Sunday, January 31st. At 2 P.M. passed Seal Island. Observed the long
range of breakers on the western side of the Port: several of them had
shifted their berths nearer to mid channel...the whole of them for
several miles broke incessantly and remarkable lofty--we passed within 2
miles of them. The reefs on the eastern side also broke much further out.
In short the mid channel up this port has (by the immense run of bad
weather) been made narrower. By 5 P.M. got to anchor in Elizabeth's
Cove...out boats. Got the launch ready for sailing in the morning to
explore the channel of the western harbour before mentioned. I went on
shore in the gig. Found the well as we left it full of fine clear water
and our board of directions hanging at the entrance of the pathway. At 4
A.M.* (* It will be seen that Bowen left to explore Port Phillip at 4
A.M. of January 31st and not on February 1st.) I sent the launch with Mr.
Bowen and 5 men armed with 14 days' provisions and water down to the
westward giving him particular instructions how to act both with respect
to the harbour and natives should he fall in with any, the substance of
which was that in finding a channel into the Port he would take marks
proper for coming in with the vessel and immediately return to me and at
all times to deal friendly with the natives. It may now be proper to
observe that my intentions are that if a passage into that harbour is
found I will take the vessel down into it and survey it as speedily as
circumstances will allow, from that trace the coast to Cape Albany, from
Cape Albany run strait to Cape Farewell and Harbinger Rocks, and if time,
after that follow up the remainder of my orders.
"Monday, February 1st...A.M. I walked along the beach for 8 miles up to
Lady Nelson's Point and observed that a great variety of birds were in
the brush and their notes very different; flights of white cockatoos of
perhaps 100 were often seen. At Lady Nelson's Point we saw 20 or 30 swans
in the salt-water lagoon...one and all of the birds we have seen were so
shy that...we did not shoot one (a single pigeon excepted). The trees
also were all in bloom. I am apt to think that summer does not begin in
this part till January. On penetrating further into this island the soil
was found to be good.
"Tuesday, February 2nd. P.M. I sent a hand on shore to the well in order
to see if any birds were to be got by his sitting there a few hours
steady as numbers towards sundown came in to drink. The plan had the
desired effect, 4 pigeons were shot, a dozen of parrots; these latter
were common, I dined on them, the pigeons were preserved. On opening them
all were found to feed on seeds of various kinds.
"Wednesday, February 3rd. P.M. As I was walking along the pathway to the
well I nearly trod on a snake about 6 feet long, the first we have seen
on the island. It made its way into the brush.
"Thursday, February 4th. Throughout these 24 hours we have had calms with
hot sickly weather and thick fiery haze. At half-past 9 P.M. the launch
returned on board, all well. Mr. Bowen reported that a good channel was
found into this new harbour, water from 10 fathoms to 6 and about a mile
and a half broad, and according to his accounts it is A MOST NOBLE SHEET
OF WATER larger even than Western Port, with many fine coves and
entrances in it and the appearance and probability of rivers, a number of
shells were found on its beaches--swans, pelicans and birds of various
sorts were seen in great numbers. The boat's crew lived on swans all the
time they were away.
"No water was as yet found--the officer having no time to spare, nor no
natives seen but numbers of their huts, in short from such a report as I
have received and of the truth of which I have no doubt (as the attention
and care of this officer has always been conspicuous) it would be
unpardonable in me not to give this new harbour a strict overhaul, in the
meantime as it was calm and no appearance of getting out, at 8 A.M. hove
up and towed the vessel up to Lady Nelson's Point in order to send the
boat up the river for birds such plenty of various kinds being on this
island. At noon dropped our anchor in 6 fathoms, Lady Nelson's Point
bearing west by south half a mile and Crown Head 9 miles north-east by
east and Margaret Island north-east 1/2 north 7 or 8 miles--moored with
kedge.
"Friday, February 5th. Variable flaws of wind all round the compass this
last 24 hours and hot sultry weather. Employed overhauling our bread
which we found in good order. A.M. Sent the launch with the First Mate
and 4 hands armed up the river to try and shoot some birds, it ought to
be observed that the past two or three days we were here numbers of
native fires were seen on the coast and up both arms, since then they
have disappeared.
"Monday, February 8th. At 3 P.M. the launch returned, all well, having
got a live swan, some dead ones and 4 crowned parrots, a single duck was
shot. No fresh water was to be got even at dead low water and up as far
as the boat could be pushed between the boughs of the fallen trees. At
A.M. took up our kedge, weighed our anchor, made sail for Elizabeth's
Cove and at half-past 6 A.M. came to anchor...sent empty cask on shore to
complete our water--also a party to cut wood, we filled our casks from
this excellent spring. Longitude by chronometer 145 degrees 13 minutes 53
seconds.
"Tuesday, February 9th. Calm weather, constant thick fiery haze, very
close and sultry. By 3 P.M. secured everything for sea intending to sail
in the morning, took a haul of our seine, caught one whiting only and two
remarkable curious fish.
"Wednesday, February 10th. P.M. Sighted our Bower anchor suspecting it to
be foul, found it so. Having found a quantity of oysters, mussels and
shellfish at low water to-day gave the shore a strict search at low water
and plainly perceived that a company of 6 or 8 men would not run any
hazard of being starved here for several months from the vast quantity of
shellfish to be found. We also have these some days past found feeding on
seaweed many hundreds of a very handsome shell very scarce where we were
in April last.
"Thursday, February 11th. This evening a snake 6 feet long was killed in
the road to the well.
"Friday, February 12th. A.M. Hoisted in launch, took up kedge intending
to sail if wind came to anything, it however kept constantly falling calm
and then a light air would spring up for a few minutes; this kind of
weather obliged me to keep fast. At noon heard distant thunder around us.
"Saturday, February 13th. From 7 P.M. till 10 P.M. constant loud thunder,
vivid lightning and very hard rain later part, till 9 A.M. Was calm then.
A breeze sprung up at east. Hove up our B.* (* Bower, that is anchor.)
and hung by the kedge, by this time it fell calm and our hopes of getting
to sea vanished, needless to observe this kind of weather is as
destructive to the intent of this cruise as gales at sea. I took a walk
along the beach far enough to see all the entrances to this port and by
ascending an eminence was confirmed in my opinion that several of those
dangerous sand rollers had shifted their berths and by so doing had
rendered the channel narrower than hithertofore.
"Sunday, February 14th...At 5 A.M. weighed and made all sail down the
port, by 8 A.M. Grant's Point bore east by north distant 10 miles and
Cape Shanks north-west distant 7 miles; kept running down the land. A.M.
At half-past 10 South Head of the new Harbour or Port north by east 8
miles distant; by noon the island at entrance of harbour bore north half
a mile distant. At this time we had a view of this part of the spacious
harbour, its entrance is wide enough to work any vessel in, but, in 10
fathoms. Bar stretches itself a good way across, and, with a strong tide
out and wind in, the ripple is such as to cause a stranger to suspect
rock or shoals ahead. We carried in with us water from 14 to 16 fathoms.
Kept standing up the port with all sail set.
"Monday, February 15th. P.M. Working up, the port with a very strong ebb
against us, we however gained ground. The southern shore of this noble
harbour is bold high land in general and not clothed as all the land at
Western Point is with thick brush but with stout trees of various kinds
and in some places falls nothing short, in beauty and appearance, of
Greenwich Park. Away to the eastward at the distance of 20 miles the land
is mountainous, in particular there is one very high mountain which in
the meantime I named Arthur's Seat from its resemblance to a mountain of
that name a few miles from Edinburgh...to the north-east by north, about
5 miles from the south shore lies a cluster of small rocky islands and
all round them a shoal of sand; plenty of swans and pelicans were found
on them when the boat was down, from which I named them Swan Isles. To
the north-east by east there is an opening, and from our masthead no land
could be seen in it. The northern shores are low with a sandy beach all
along. At half-past 3 P.M. we got to anchor in a sandy cove in 7 fathoms
water, bottom fine sand--Swan Isles bearing north-east by north distance
5 miles, a bold rocky point which I named Point Paterson east-south-east
1 1/2 miles, a long sandy point named Point Palmer west, 1 1/2 miles, and
the nearest point of the shore south-west 1/2 of a mile distant.
"I went on shore and walked through the woods a couple of miles. The
ground was hard and pleasant to walk on. The trees are at a good distance
from each other and no brush intercepts you. The soil is good as far as
we may be judges. I saw several native huts and very likely they have
burnt off several hundred acres of ground. Young grass we found springing
up over all the ground we walked; the only birds we saw were a few
parrots. We found some shells on the beach and returned on board. I have
named this harbour Port King* (* Governor King afterwards renamed the
harbour Port Phillip in honour of the first Governor of New South Wales.)
in honour of Governor P.G. King under whose orders I act. Set a third
watch of the people with an officer. In the morning sent the gig to Swan
isles for swans and on board we caught a few rock fish. At noon the gig
returned with 3 live and 4 dead swans.
"Tuesday, February 16th. After dinner I took a walk through the woods of
this part of the country, attended by one soldier and our carpenter to
examine the wood. To describe this part I walked through is simply to say
that it nearly resembles a walk on Blackheath and the Park if we set out
of question the houses and gardens of the latter. The hills and valleys
rise and fall with inexpressible elegance. We discovered no water nor any
new wood of consequence, but it is impossible that a great want of water
can be here from the number of native huts and fires we fell in with in
our march. From the top of a high hill I ascended and casting my eyes to
the north-east a large sheet of water was seen which I am inclined to
think is either a harbour or large river; we also perceived that this
port trained away under Cape Shanks.
"On our return to the boat Andrew Luck found a perfect nautilus shell; he
made me a present of it, indeed it is but common justice to observe that
the invariable good, attentive and decent behaviour of this old man ever
since he joined this vessel renders him a fit object of mercy. This day a
few snappers were caught and some rock fish. At sundown a native fire was
seen about a mile inland, in the morning early I sent Mr. Bowen and Bond
armed to speak them, neither fell in with them. At 9 A.M. hove up our
Bower with a light air at north-east and dropped a few miles further up
the Port. We now saw the same fire just lighted by the natives and
presently perceived several of them come out of the Bush, but the moment
they saw the vessel they sprang into the wood out of sight. At 11 A.M. we
came to an anchor in 5 fathoms water, handed sails, etc., as there was a
native fire burning a little way inland.
"I sent the launch with Mr. Bowen and 4 hands armed to see if any natives
were here, and before the boat was half-way on shore we had the
satisfaction of seeing 18 or 20 men and boys come out of the wood and
seat themselves down on a green bank waiting the approach of our boat
with which I had sent some shirts and other trifles to give them; the
boat accordingly landed in the midst of them and a friendly intercourse
took place with dancing on both sides--in an hour the boat returned. Mr.
Bowen had dressed them in our white shirts and invited them on board,
this however they declined, but exchanged for all this. Got a basket of
straw neatly enough made. They were all clothed in the skins of opossums
and each had a bundle of spears, a stone mogo and one basket. They wished
much to know what our arms were and their use and did not seem entirely
to believe Mr. Bowen that they were only walking sticks--no women were
amongst them. I sent the boat again with some bread, looking-glasses,
tomahawk and a picture as presents to induce them to part with their
weapons and dresses as also to inform us where there was water. This day
all hands put upon two-thirds allowance of bread.
"Wednesday, February 17th. Fresh light airs inclinable to calm throughout
this 24 hours. The boat (as mentioned in latter part of yesterday's log)
proceeded to the shore and was as before received in a friendly manner by
the natives, all of whom were seated in a circle on a beautiful spot of
grass near a high point of land. Mr. Bowen and all the crew consisting of
5 men and the boy, Mr. Brabyn, went up with their dinners in their hands
and sat down in the midst of them (18 in number) and began to eat showing
the natives how to eat bread, etc., and gave them anything they chose to
ask for. Mr. Bowen gave them all the things I had sent as well as several
of his own things--stripping himself almost naked to comply with their
wishes, and his example was followed by the whole of the boat's crew. As
there was two fine-looking boys amongst them I sent Mr. Brabyn on shore
purposely to see and gain their confidence by his attention to their
youngsters, both of whom he dressed in his shirts, handkerchiefs,
trowsers, etc.
"All matters continued in this state while our people had anything to
give and all we got was 2 spears, a basket and a mogo and even these they
again took from the seamen that had them in keeping, this however the
officer took no offence at being determined if at all possible to keep on
friendly terms with them. It was in vain that the officer and crew tryed
by signs too significant not to be understood to gain intelligence where
water was to be found or on what beaches shells were most plentiful, to
all such enquiries they turned a deaf ear and only seemed intent on
getting what our people had even to the last shirt; by this time our
people had nearly finished their dinners and Isaac Moss having the boat
in charge got up and was walking slowly down to her. At this time the Boy
Brabyn happened to turn his head towards the wood and saw a man in the
very act of throwing a spear at Moss as well as a large body (not before
seen) behind a large fallen tree with their spears all in readiness for
throwing. The boy immediately cried out to Mr. Bowen who was at that very
time in the act of serving out bread to all the party he was sitting
among that he would be speared, but before the words were out of his
mouth, a spear of a most dangerous kind, was thrown at and did not escape
Moss by a yard and in an instant the whole of the treacherous body that
Mr. Bowen and 4 of our people were sitting in the midst of opened out to
the right and left and at once left them all open to the party in ambush
who immediately were on their feet and began to throw spears; still such
was the forbearance of the officer that only one piece was fired over
their heads but this was found only to create a small panic, and our
party were obliged to teach them by fatal experience the effect of our
walking sticks.
"The first fire made them run and one received two balls between his
shoulders, still some of them made a stop to heave; the second fire they
all set off with astonishing speed and most likely one received a mortal
wound. Before another piece was fired Mr. Bowen laid hold of one of their
number and held on till three of our people came up and also grappled
him, strange to tell he made such violent struggles as to get away from
them all nor did the contents of the officer's piece bring him up
although one ball passed through his arm and the other in the side--he
was traced a good distance by his blood--the remaining pieces were by
this time fired and our party gave chase to them all.
"On board I kept a strict look-out with the glass and we lay only a
little more than a quarter of a mile off the point where they were seated
on. I plainly saw the natives running through the wood which was by no
means thick--one fellow in particular had been dressed in one of my white
shirts and the officer had tyed the wrists of it with string, which
hindered his getting it off--him we plainly saw from the vessel pass the
roots of black trees with such speed as more to resemble a large white
bird flying than a man. To increase their panic as they passed along I
gave them a discharge of our guns loaded with round and grape but am
almost certain that they did them no damage; by this time our people
returned from the chase, having found on the way back a number of spears,
dresses and baskets, etc. Made the boat signal and they came off.
"Thus did this treachery and unprovoked attack meet with its just
punishment and at the same time taught us a useful lesson to be more
cautious in future. With respect to the size of these natives they are
much the same as at Sydney, their understanding better though, for they
easily made out our signs when it answered their purposes or inclination.
When it did not they could be dull enough. They were all clothed in
opossum skins and in each basket a certain quantity of gum was found. Not
the least sign of a canoe has been seen. I conclude they live entirely
inland, and if we may judge from the number of their fires and other
marks this part of the country is not thin of inhabitants. Their spears
are of various kinds and all of them more dangerous than any I have yet
seen. The workmanship of their dresses, their lines and baskets are far
from despicable, their mogo or stone axes are such as common at Sydney.
"In the afternoon the boat went to Swan Isles and caught three live swans
of a large size, and in the morning the launch went with Mr. Power and a
party well armed to sound for a channel round which the vessel might sail
in order to survey the port. Usefully employed on board. Latitude 38
degrees 20 minutes south.
"Thursday, February 18th. Pleasant weather throughout. The launch
returned having been fortunate enough to discover...fresh water and a
channel all round this part of the Port from 10 to 14 fathoms. I took a
long range through the woods attended with an armed party. We discovered
nothing new but found several of the things we gave the natives which in
their fright they had dropped. The ground we walked over was open and the
same as before described, with good soil. The tide where we lie flows
full and changes at 3 hours in the afternoon, and its perpendicular rise
is about 6 feet up and down.
"Friday, February 19th. Another overhaul of the woods took place but
nothing (not before mentioned) was found. Numbers of native tracks, fires
and huts were seen. One native fire in sight on Arthur's Seat distant
about 10 miles.
"Saturday, February 20th. Sent an armed party and our carpenter a long
range through the woods to try the different kinds of wood, none however
was found of use, the trees being almost invariably oak and other wood
quite common at Sydney. A red waistcoat of Mr. Brabyn's was found with
some bread in each pocket, in this he had dressed one of the native boys,
who in his fear left it I fancy, as soon as he had found how to get it
off, for it was buttoned on him.
"Sunday, February 21st. Finding we could not move higher up the port with
the vessel I sent the launch over the western side to examine the passage
into a harbour or river I saw from the hill on 16th inst.
"Monday, February 22nd. At noon the launch returned, having found an
entrance into the sheet of water they were sent to overhaul, but only at
high water, 7 or 8 feet of it, consequently no harbour for shipping. The
boat proceeded a mile and a half, and, in running that, caught 20 swans
of a large size without wasting one charge of shot, which by-the-bye is
now become a scarce article, not above 3 or 4 pounds being in the vessel;
however from the report made of this place it may lead to something of
more consequence. I shall after the survey of the Port is completed give
it a good overhaul. I must mention here that both our boats are now in
such a state of decay from age and constant mending and patching that
they both keep a hand constantly bailing when pulling or sailing, this
circumstance it is needless to mention in a certain degree retards our
proceedings.
"Tuesday, February 23rd. I went in the launch and sounded a few miles of
the Port up towards the watering place. The soundings were 9 feet to 6
fathoms, bottom fine sand, further out perhaps a deeper channel may exist
(this will be ascertained in the survey). Afterwards we walked through
the country some distance, found the soil invariably good, the ground
almost clear and the ranges of trees as regular as they are in general in
the Park, with fine strong short grass underfoot.
"Wednesday, February 24th. First part of these 24 hours had a great deal
of thunder and lightning and rain, middle and latter parts it blew a hard
gale at south-west with squalls at intervals. We held on although all
ataunto with the small bower and one-third of a cable out, a proof of the
goodness of the holding ground.
"Thursday, February 25th. First part the gale continued, latter fair
winds. Observed several very large native fires at the foot of Arthur's
Seat and on the western side of the port, hauled our seine several times
along the shore nearest us but caught no fish owing probably to there
being flats of sand lying off them to the distance of 200 yards.
"Friday, February 26th. Examined the beach and land for about 8 miles.
A.M. Sent our long boat on shore, turned her up and set our carpenter to
work on her, she leaking so much as to keep a hand constantly bailing,
and our small boat is so bad as to render it hazardous to go any distance
from the vessel in her.
"Saturday, February 27th. Fine weather and moderate winds. Both boats
sounding and on survey of harbour. A number of very large native fires on
the hills round the eastern and western shores of the Port have been seen
these two days past. Sent Mr. Bowen and Mr. Brabyn in the gig to get the
Latitude of the north end of Swan Isles and at noon I got the Latitude of
a point about 7 miles North and South of them from which a base line was
got for the survey of the harbour.
"Sunday, February 28th. Gave some of the people liberty on shore.
"Monday, March 1st. At 5 A.M. took up our kedge, hove short, loosed sails
and sheeted home the top-sails, weighed and made sail up the port,
intending to run as high as the watering place. The wind in a little time
flied away and the tide ran so rapid as to sweep the vessel on a shoal of
sand with only 5 feet of water on it, as it was perfectly smooth we
immediately hove her off without her sustaining the least damage and
dropped back into our old berth between Point Paterson and Bowen's Point
so named from Mr. Bowen's skirmish with the natives in it. The flies are
now so troublesome as to almost hinder a person from sitting a moment in
one place.
"Tuesday, March 2nd. Employed getting on board stones for ballast and
stowing them away. At 4 A.M. sent the longboat for a turn of water and to
sound that part of the harbour between the vessel and it; by noon she
returned on board with a turn of water, it was found that a bank of sand
lay from shore to the distance of a mile or a mile and a quarter with
only, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 feet on it at low water and it extends nearly 4
miles along shore. When you have passed this there is from 5 to 9 fathoms
water abreast of the watering place, there is however little doubt of a
deep channel being outside of this shoal, and this point will be
ascertained in the course of to-morrow.
"Thursday, March 4th. P.M. The launch returned on board with a turn of
water but had not been able to find a channel for vessel of any draught
of water though she stood well out from the shore to at best 3 miles.
This bank has only from 4 to 8 feet water on it and in many places is not
above a hundred yards broad.
"Friday, March 5th. I went in the launch in search of a channel by which
vessels of a larger draught than ours might be got up abreast of the
watering place and was fortunate enough to find one a mile at least in
breadth lying off the southern shores of this Port about 3 miles and
having from 16 to 6 fathoms water in at low water and neap tides; and in
this water a vessel of any draught may be secure from all winds at about
a mile and a half from the spring at which to-day I loaded the boat with
water and examined it. As far as we are judges it is most excellent water
as clear as crystal--lies from the beach about 10 or a dozen yards and
plenty of it to water the Grand Fleet of England; it is nearer the
entrance than the foot of Arthur's Seat by about 2 miles, and can easily
be found out by the land which for a few miles before you come to it is
low whereas all the other land on both sides is high with bold points; if
a boat then East or east by south from Point Paterson 9 miles puts into
the shore they will not be far off it, there is plenty of duck about it,
but so shy that only two have been shot, a circumstance we did not a
little regret as they exceed in flavour any I ever eat. We are now
complete in water and will soon be wooded.
"Saturday, March 5th. Employed on board fitting new waist-cloths, the
others being decayed and her sides and bends being very bare I gave them
a coat of red (the only colour we had on board) and blacked the bends and
upper works. A.M. I went in the launch over to the sheet of water* (*
Mentioned on 22nd.) (as I intended) with an armed boat's crew and by noon
got to its entrance. This day has been so clear that we are able to see
the land all round the Port and in many places very high headlands. In
those low places, where we could not be certain of the land by the eye
there were numerous native fires and some of them very large.
"Sunday, March 7th. By one P.M. I got into the sheet of water and by
pulling all round it found it to be very extensive but, in no place more
than 6 feet water and the greatest part of it so shoal as to ground the
boat. In the entrance at one place there is a small channel of about 50
or 60 feet in breadth with 9 feet to 2 1/2 fathoms water in, but of no
use as it shoals to a couple of feet before you get in. The soil of the
land all round the extensive place is good and its appearance exceeds in
beauty even the southern shores. The number of large swans seen almost
exceeds belief, but by this time most of them could fly, we caught 11--10
of which were large. All of us slept this night on a pleasant little
island with a few handsome trees on it, soil good and so clear as to be
fit for the hoe at once, I named it Maria Isle after a sister I lost some
years past.
"Monday, March 8th. As we now intended sailing in a few days I judged it
consistent with His Majesty's instructions (a copy of which I was
furnished with from the Governor and Commander-in-Chief of New South
Wales) to take possession of this port in the form and manner laid down
by the said instructions, and accordingly at 8 o'clock in the morning the
United Colours of the Kingdoms of Great Britain and Ireland were hoisted
on board and on Point Paterson, and at one o'clock under a discharge of 3
volleys of small arms and artillery the Port was taken possession of in
the name of his Sacred Majesty George the Third of Great Britain and
Ireland, King, etc., etc. Served double allowance of grog. In the
afternoon I went on shore attended with an armed party and passed the
remainder of the day about and under the colours flying on shore, at
sundown hauled down the colours on board and ashore.
"Tuesday, March 9th. Employed getting ready for sea. Overhauled our keels
fore and aft, cleaned them. We have now expended 19 weeks and one day's
provisions out of 24 weeks. We were victualled for commencing on 27th
October 1801 and owing to the quantity of bread decayed, along with what
the swans and other birds have eaten, we are rather short, even what we
have left is very bad, therefore it will not be in my power at this time
to prosecute the object of our cruise much further. It is in vain I
regret so little being done in such a length of time, the weather and
other circumstances have been rather against us the whole cruise, however
the little that is performed of the original instructions is pretty
accurate and I trust will give the Commander-in-Chief some satisfaction.
"Wednesday, March 10th. For these last two or three days great numbers of
native fires have been seen all round the Port except between Arthur's
Seat and Point Palmer.
"Thursday, March 11th. At 7 weighed and made sail down the port by 8 A.M.
with a strong tide of ebb running out we got into the entrance carrying
all the way from 9 to 16 fathoms water, we then fell into such a ripple
that we expected every minute it would break on board--got clear and by
half-past the point of entrance bore north-east by east 4 miles and a
remarkably high nob of land (if not an island) west-north-west 4 or 5
miles, by noon the entrance north-east by west 9 or 10 miles.
...
Wednesday, March 24th. Fine weather though inclined to calm. At half-past
3 P.M. South Head bore south-south-west the North distant 4 or 5 miles.
At 4 P.M. passed Bradley's Head, at 6 passed Garden Island and by
half-past 6 P.M. came to an anchor in Sydney Cove with the best bower,
moored with the kedge. The Commander waited on His Excellency the
Governor and Commander-in-Chief."
Murray's voyage ended on March 24th, and on the same day he waited on
Governor King at Sydney, with the news that his orders had been carried
out. The Governor must have been greatly pleased, and the more so because
only a month later the French ship Naturaliste put into Port Jackson.* (*
The French ships Geographe and Naturaliste had left France in October
1800 on a voyage of discovery.) Hamelin, who commanded her, was, however,
in sore straits. He had parted from Commodore Baudin in a gale off Van
Dieman's Land and had traversed the whole of Bass Strait without meeting
the Geographe, his boats having visited Western Port* only a month after
Murray had left there. (* French Island preserves the memory of their
visit, but Murray's Chart shows that the English (contrary to Peron's
assertions) knew that this island was separated from the mainland before
the coming of the French.) Finding his provisions exhausted, in his
extremity the French Commander, although he knew that France and England
were at war, steered to Sydney. The English, we are told, received him
with noble and large-minded (grande et Loyale) liberality, and the sick
French sailors were received at the Government Hospital. Hamelin was
busily engaged in replenishing his ship when Captain Matthew Flinders
arrived in H.M.S. Investigator on May 9th and was able to give him news
of his consort which he had met in Encounter Bay. Flinders also informed
Captain Hamelin that Baudin had said that it was his intention to proceed
to the Isle of France. The Naturaliste therefore, hastened her
preparations and sailed from Sydney on May 18th.
In the meantime the Lady Nelson had been to the Hawkesbury and back
again, arriving on April 21st and bringing a cargo of wheat and some
cedar logs. The remarks in the log may prove of value to those who study
the early history of the Colony, for Murray gives the names of the
different reaches in the river, and it would be interesting to know
whether these old place-names are still used. Murray does not tell us of
the arrival of the Naturaliste, though he must have been in Sydney then,
but various entries show that the brig conveyed the Governor and his
party to the Naturaliste's anchorage in Neutral Bay to visit Captain
Hamelin and brought them to Sydney again.
Another voyage to the Hawkesbury River was carried out, and then the ship
was put into preparation for a voyage of exploration, in company with the
Investigator, to the North coast.
MURRAY'S LOG.
Sydney Cove to the Hawkesbury.
"Thursday, April 1st. Fine weather. Getting ready for sea. At half-past 5
A.M. up kedge and weighed and turned out of ye cove. The Cumberland got
under way and proceeded down the harbour. At 8 A.M. (We having the
Cumberland in company) cleared the heads of Port Jackson, and at
half-past 8 parted with Cumberland, leaving her with a fine moderate
breeze at south-south-east, and by half-past 9 she bore Sydney 4 or 5
miles. By 11 A.M. got abreast of Barren Jowie* (* Barrenjoey.) and by
noon passed Pittwater, here we found at anchor Mr. Commissary Palmer's
vessel the George.
"Friday, April 2nd. Proceeding up Harbour and by 2 P.M. came to anchor
under Mullet Island, in the evening Raby's boat passed us, and in a
little time after we hailed and brought alongside a fishing boat with
three soldiers in her, at 8 P.M. she left us. A.M. Got under way and at
the end of tide came to in the westernmost end of Spectacle Reach.
"Saturday, April 3rd. At 3 P.M. got under weigh and proceeded up the
river--came to in Mangrove Reach, set as usual an armed watch with an
officer and proceeded up the river and at noon came to in Milkmaid Reach.
"Sunday, April 4th. At 6 A.M. got under weigh and proceeded up the river
as far as the first branch and there from the darkness of the night came
to. At 5 A.M. up anchor and by 11 got as far as Shot Snake Reach.
"Monday, April 5th. Fine weather. At 8 A.M. got under weigh
and...proceeded up the River, by 11 A.M. passed the upper branch and by
noon gained two following Reaches. Latitude observed 33 degrees 28
minutes 26 seconds south.
"Tuesday, April 6th. Fine weather throughout. At 4 P.M. came to in
Belloe's Reach and at half-past 9 P.M. got under weigh and gained
Portland Reach. At 10 A.M. got under weigh and by noon got one reach
above Portland Reach--as yet we have not seen one log of cedar.
"Wednesday, April 7th. Proceeding up the river--by 4 P.M. came to in the
Reach above the first settlers--fired a gun.
"Sunday, April 11th. At half-past 12 hauled the vessel in close to
Government House and began to take in wheat and by sundown got in 311
bushels. At daylight again began to receive grain and by noon received on
board to the amount of wheat 774 bushels.
The Hawkesbury to Sydney Cove.
"Monday, April 12th. Preparing to drop down the river. At 6 A.M. made the
signal for sailing with a gun.
Hawkesbury River to Sydney Cove.
"Tuesday, April 13th. At 9 A.M. hauled up to get down the river but the
wind blew so strong in our teeth that we were obliged to come to a few
hundred yards below Government House.
"Wednesday, April 14th. At half-past 12 P.M. the tide having made down
hove up and began to tow down the river and by 5 P.M. got down to the
lowest settlers. At 8 P.M. fired a gun and set an armed watch; at 9 P.M.
having a fair breeze of wind, got under weigh and by noon cleared Lover's
Leap Reach.
"Thursday, April 15th. At 5 P.M. from the strength of the wind were
obliged to come to in the upper end of Sackville Reach.
"Friday, April 16th. At one P.M. a short lull taking place, hove up and
tried to tow down but immediately obliged to bring up from wind blowing
so strong as to render our getting down the river an entire
impossibility.
"Saturday, April 17th. At one P.M. it lulled and we got under weigh, by 6
P.M. we came to, at midnight on the turn of tide again hove up and towed
down, at 3 A.M. passed the Francis schooner at anchor, at 4 A.M. came to.
"Sunday, April 18th. Fine weather throughout. Proceeding down the river.
At 4 P.M. came to in Barbin Reach--towed down till half-past 4 A.M., at
half-past 9 A.M. again got under weigh and by noon got within the reaches
of Mangrove Point; one of the Hawkesbury boats passed us.
"Monday, April 19th. Working down the river. By 2 P.M. we gained one
reach below Sentry Box and there came to. Sent on shore and cut down a
few cabbage trees for the people. At half-past 7 two boats passed us
going to the Hawkesbury. Half-past one A.M. got down as low as the Barr
Reach where we brought up, at 9 A.M. again got under weigh and by noon we
gained Spectacle Reach.
"Tuesday, April 20th. Proceeding down the river as far as Mullet Island
and at half-past 1 P.M. came to. Hove up and made sail down as far as
Flint and Steel Cove and then came to; at 9 A.M., in boats, and hove up,
made sail out of Broken Bay wind at north-west, at 11 A.M. passed Barren
Jowie, by noon the north head of Port Jackson bore south by west 1/2
west.
"Wednesday, April 21st. Hauled our wind close tacked occasionally till 6
P.M. when we entered the Heads, kept working up the Port and by 7 P.M.
got as high as Garden Island, and at 8 P.M. came to an anchor in Sydney
Cove.
...
"Thursday, April 29th. First and middle parts calm, latter part small
breezes, proceeded down the river as far as the French ship on board of
which the Commander-in-Chief went and other gentlemen. At 2 P.M. they
returned on board and we tacked and stood up for Sydney again, at
half-past 2 P.M. the breeze dying away His Excellency and the other
gentlemen left us and went up in their boats. At 4 P.M., a small breeze
springing up, we were enabled to proceed up, and by 5 P.M. came to an
anchor in Sydney Cove.
Sydney Cove to the Hawkesbury.
"Friday, April 30th. At 11 A.M. again received orders to get under weigh,
loosed sails, hove up and made sail down the Port. At noon the
Commander-in-Chief with a company of ladies and gentlemen came on board
and we proceeded down the Harbour all sails set.
"Saturday, May 1st. Kept standing down the Harbour and at one P.M. came
to an anchor in Lookout Bay where the Commander-in-Chief and party went
on shore. At 4 P.M. weighed and stood up the Harbour and at 6 came to off
the Pinch Gut Island in 12 fathoms of water.
...
Sydney Cove to Hawkesbury River.
"Saturday, June 12th. First part strong gales at South, middle and latter
more moderate. At 6 A.M. began to work out of the bay, at 7 weighed and
made sail and by 8 cleared the heads, at 9 the head of Port Jackson bore
south-west by west distant 3 1/2 miles, half-past 9 passed the Long Reef
and by about 11 was abreast of the South Head of Broken Bay. At noon
nearly reached Barren Jowie.
"Sunday, June 13th. Kept standing off the Bay and by 3 P.M. entered
Mullet Island Reach, at 5 P.M. came to in Lay Island Reach, perceived a
fresh to be in the river. At 2 A.M. weighed and got a small distance in
but the wind freshening ahead obliged us to come to.
"Monday, June 14th. At 3 P.M. weighed and began to tow up the River and
by 7 P.M. came to in Bow Reach. At 5 A.M. weighed and proceeded up the
river, by 9 A.M. came to in Sentry Box Reach.
"Tuesday, June 15th. At 3 P.M. weighed and made sail proceeding up the
river--at half-past 7 A.M. passed the first branch, and at 11 came to.
"Wednesday, June 16th. At 4 P.M., hove up and at 8 P.M. passed the second
branch, at 10 came to, at 1 A.M. hove up, and by noon passed Portland
Head.
"Thursday, June 17th. At 2 P.M. came to one reach above Portland Head. At
7 P.M. hove up and by one A.M. came to among the lower settlers. At 9
A.M. hove up and got a couple of reaches higher when we anchored, owing
to the strength of the wind against us, one hour. People in the launch
pulling.
"Friday, June 18th. At 2 A.M. dropped the settlement and at daylight
began to deliver the provisions.
"Saturday, June 19th. Finished the delivery of the provisions and began
to take in corn from His Majesty's store.
"Tuesday, June 22nd. Employed taking corn. Made the signal for sailing
with a gun, by noon we finished loading having got on board 520 bushels
corn; hauled off to the stream.
Hawkesbury River to Sydney Cove.
"Wednesday, June 23rd. Employed getting ready to drop down and at 9 A.M.
hove up and began to tow down the river; by noon got as low as Simpson's
farm.
"Thursday, June 24th. By 2 P.M. got down as low as the lowest settlers
and then came to, the tides being done. At 3 P.M. hove up and got down a
couple of reaches when we grounded on a mudbank, hove her off and at 8
A.M. hove up and at 10 got past Lover's Leap, at noon got down another
reach.
"Friday, June 25th. At one P.M. came to in Portland Reach. At 8 A.M. hove
up and by noon got two reaches below Sackville Reach.
"Saturday, June 26th. Proceeding down the river, at 3 P.M. came to and at
9 A.M. hove up and by noon got below the first branch.
"Sunday, June 27th. At 9 A.M. hove up and proceeding down the river and
by noon passed the lower reach.
"Monday, June 28th. At 10 A.M. hove up and attempted to work down; by
noon gained two reaches.
"Tuesday, June 29th. Gained one reach more in working, when from the
sudden gusts of wind and lulls we were obliged to bring up. At 10 A.M.
the Cumberland passed us bound up. At 10 A.M. hove up and gained by noon
only one more reach and there was forced to let go our anchor.
"Wednesday, June 30th. At 11 P.M. hove up and towed down a couple of
reaches when we were obliged to bring to. At 11 A.M. hove up and by noon
nearly reached Mangrove Point; wind favouring us, set main-sail and stay
sails.
"Thursday, July 1st. At 3 P.M. came to below Mangrove Reach, 6 A.M. hove
our small bower to the bows and found its stock gone.
"Friday, July 2nd. Tacking down the river--by 3 P.M. came to at Long
Island; at 10 A.M. weighed and made sail down the river. At noon passed
the Francis schooner lying at Mullet Island.
"Saturday, July 3rd. At 9 A.M. the Francis weighed and stood up the
river; at noon weighed and towed down towards Broken Bay.
"Sunday, July 4th. At 6 P.M. after having attempted to get out were
obliged to come to in 4 fathoms water. At 6 A.M. hove up and made sail
down the bay, at 7 A.M. passed Pittwater, at 8 got abreast of the South
Head, at 10 the North Head of Port Jackson bore west-south-west 4 miles.
"Monday, July 5th. Fresh winds and a high sea. By 4 P.M. entered the
heads and at half-past 7 P.M. came to at Garden Island. Commander waited
on the Governor and Commander-in-Chief.