MURRAY'S EXPLORATION OF BASS STRAIT.
The Lady Nelson set forth from Sydney on her mission on November 12th,
1801. Obeying Governor King's orders, Murray steered first towards the
Kent Group.* (* The Kent Group was discovered by Lieutenant Matthew
Flinders in the Francis, and named by him in honour of Captain William
Kent of H.M.S. Supply. The group was subsequently visited by Mr.
Rushworth and other sailors.) His log shows how he mistook other islands,
probably the Sisters* (* The Sisters Islands were so named by Captain
Furneaux in 1773 from the resemblance they bore to each other. Peron
calls them two small islands escarpes.) at the northern extremity of the
Furneaux Group, for his place of destination and how, when 25 miles to
the northward of Cape Barren, on seeing smoke rising from an island, he
sent a boat ashore and found living there two men, a woman and a child,
the men, Chase and Beven, being sealers in the employ of Messrs. Kable &
Underwood, of Sydney. The Lady Nelson was then brought to and moored in
Diana Bay, a well-known anchorage in Furneaux Islands.
Murray, at this time, seems to have been much farther southward than
Governor King intended him to go, for the island which he writes of as
Grand Capshine was undoubtedly the Grand Capuchin, the largest island of
the Furneaux Group, now known as Flinders Island.* (* Named Flinders
Island by Captain Flinders in honour of his brother, Lieutenant Samuel
Flinders, R.N.)
Diana Bay, the bay in which the Lady Nelson stayed for some days, was
formed by the shores of the Grand Capuchin and Storehouse and Cat
Islands, the last named islands being the Babel Islands of Flinders. In
very early days this bay was much frequented by sealing vessels and in
1801 gained its name from the ship Diana, a small vessel belonging to
Messrs. Kable & Underwood, of Sydney, which afterwards stranded on the
Grand Capuchin and which had a curious history. A French schooner named
L'Entreprise of Bordeaux, under the command of Captain Le Corre, last
from the Isle of France, while sealing in these waters was also wrecked
about a year later off one of the Sisters, 30 miles to the northward of
where the Diana went ashore. Le Corre and two-thirds of his crew
perished. The supercargo whose name, according to Peron, was Coxwell, but
which the Sydney Gazette prints as Coggeshall, was among the saved and
was brought with the other rescued men to Sydney. Coggeshall returned
with Mr. Underwood to endeavour to save the hull of the vessel, and
though they failed to float L'Entreprise, they were more successful as
regards the Diana which was repaired and renamed the Surprise, the name
by which the lost French schooner had been known by the English from
Governor King downwards. In order to pay expenses she was put up to
public auction in Sydney and purchased by one of the officers of
L'Entreprise for 117 guineas, but was afterwards resold to her original
owners, Messrs. Kable & Underwood.* (* See Sydney Gazettes, March 12th
and March 19th, 1803.)
Murray did not name the Grand Capuchin, for it was so called before the
time of his visit. Nor did Flinders or Bass give it that name, which was
probably derived from the cowled peak of a mountain on it, one of three
christened by Flinders the Patriarchs, combined with the fact that
Furneaux had already named some black rocky islands that lay off the
entrance to Storm Bay Passage, The Friars.* (* The Boreels Eylander of
Tasman.) It seems likely that Barrallier in the Lady Nelson's previous
voyage or some French sailor bestowed the name Capuchin upon Flinders
Island, and Murray wrote it on his chart, although it was afterwards
erased from the maps and replaced at first by the name of Great Island
and later by that of Flinders Island.* (* The Sydney Gazette of March
31st, 1831, in giving the names of the Furneaux Group transfers the name
to Babel Islands, i.e. "Babel Islands or Capisheens as called by the
sealers," but, as Murray's Chart, page 146, and Sydney Gazettes of an
earlier period will show, at first Flinders Island alone was called
Capuchin.)
Leaving Diana Bay on November 25th Murray saw the easternmost members of
the Kent Group and steered through the passage which separates the
principal islands and which was named in his honour, Murray's Passage.
Flinders had passed through the same passage, when he discovered the
group, in the Francis in 1798, and named a rock to the south of it the
Judgment Rock "from its resemblance to an elevated seat."* (* The
Australian Sailing Directory, Admiralty.)
After surveying the Kent Group, Murray started to carry out his survey of
Western Port and Port Phillip. On December 5th he sighted Sir Roger
Curtis's Island and on the 7th reached Western Port where he was detained
by bad weather until the first week in January. On January 5th* (* The
logbooks were kept in nautical fashion, the day beginning at noon before
the civil reckoning, so that Port Phillip was really discovered on the
afternoon of Monday, January 4th, 1802. According to the Admiralty
librarian the change from nautical to civil reckoning in the logs did not
take place until 1805.) as the vessel ran along the Victorian coast
towards Port Phillip dense smoke from native fires hid the land from
view. At 3 P.M. the smoke had cleared away and Bowen, who was at the
masthead, espied an opening in the land ahead which "had the appearance
of a harbour." Keeping close in for it Murray saw inside a fine smooth
sheet of water. An island lay at the entrance but the waves were breaking
high on the rocks so the brig was hauled off and taken out to sea. Murray
then steered to King Island deciding to return again later to explore the
newly discovered harbour. He surveyed the east coast of King Island from
Cape Farewell to Seal Bay. Some sea elephants were lying on the beach of
the bay that he first entered, and this was named Sea Elephant Bay.* (*
Murray's survey of King Island was an important one and Governor King
refers to it as "giving to the British priority of discovery over the
French ships" when eleven months afterwards Baudin came to the island.)
The following pages describe Murray's exploration of King Island and of
his first sight of Port Phillip.
MURRAY'S LOG.
H.M.A. SURVEYING VESSEL LADY NELSON ON DISCOVERY. LIEUTENANT-COMMANDER
JOHN MURRAY.
Sydney Cove to Bass Strait.
"Thursday, 12th November 1801. Working out of ye Heads at 1 P.M.--at 2
P.M. ye South Head of Port Jackson bore north-north-west 11 miles. At 4
P.M. ye weather began to look squally and black from ye south-west with
now and then lightning...At 5 it thundered and the lightning
increased...During night fresh winds and a heavy sea up; in the morning
no land in sight.
"Friday, 13th November. Fresh winds and clear with heavy tumbling
sea...At sundown Mount Dromedary 9 or 10 leagues N.W.W. During night
unsettled weather and a confused sea. At noon Cape How bore West distance
7 or 8 leagues.
"Saturday, 14th November. Light airs inclinable to calm, a very heavy sea
from south-west. At sundown Cape How bore north-west distant about 7
leagues...We hauled in for the land this morning, the Longitude by
Governor King's timekeeper was 149 degrees 30 minutes 45 seconds east,
Latitude by anticipation 38 degrees 00 minutes 00 seconds south. At noon
calm fine weather. Latitude observed 38 degrees 06 minutes 43 seconds
south.
"Sunday, 15th November. Moderate fine weather and smooth water...At 9
A.M. we had a curious squall at every point of the compass, it did not
blow very hard and seemed to settle in the south-east quarter.
"Monday, 16th November. At half-past 5 P.M. saw a thunder squall rising
in western quarter. The squall passed over the land and thundered a good
deal with much lightning, at half-past 7 it took a north-west turn and at
8 P.M. passed over our heads, though with no great deal of wind...In the
morning made sail...Latitude 38 degrees 32 minutes south.
"Thursday, 19th November. Moderate and hazy. At 6 A.M. saw Kent's Group
bearing south-west distances 8 or 9 leagues--their appearance was like a
great number of small islands being nearly south-east and north-west; at
8 A.M. the easternmost island of Kent's Group and the largest bore
south-south-west distance 7 or 8 leagues. At 9 A.M. the whole chain of
islands, 13 in number, bore from south by west to west the large island
as above.
"Friday, 20th November. Light variable winds and fine weather. Kept
working up to the land but were surprised to find that instead of being a
small group of islands, ye body of the land was very large and whatever
appeared as islands began to connect itself into one island, the latitude
not agreeing with Lieutenant Flinders, concluded it could not be Kent's
Group. Kept working up to it and by daylight was within 5 miles of ye
northernmost island, passed close to it and seeing an immense number of
birds on it sent the boat on shore to procure some; in a short time after
this I saw a smoke arise from the small island just passed, sent ye boat
and ye first mate there where they found two men, one woman and a child,
of Henry Kable's employ; assisted them as well as we could--by noon
worked into a good harbour and moored between Storehouse and Cat
Island--got the Latitude by going on shore 39 degrees 57 minutes 46
seconds south. When moored, the Grand Capshine bore west-north-west
distant 1/2 mile--Cat Island bore north by east 1/4 mile and Storehouse
Island south-east quarter of a mile. Cape Barren the east point south 1/2
east distant 25 miles.
"Saturday, 21st November. Employed taking on stone for ballast. Carpenter
fitting places for sweeps to row in and on the longboat. P.M. Broke
Farmer Barnes for contempt and disobedience of orders. Rated Robert
Warren boatswain's mate in his room. A.M. Sent the first mate and a party
of hands (with one of the people found here) and some dogs to get
kangaroo being informed that great plenty was to be found in the country.
"Sunday, 22nd November. The first officer and his party returned on
board; they shot 2 wambucks,* (* Presumably wombats.) a kangaroo, a
porcupine, a swan and some birds--in the evening sent the second mate and
some hands on shore to get mutton-birds, and eggs. On account of the
great plenty of fresh provisions served no salt meat this day. I went and
measured a base line from the south end of Storehouse Island due East and
West 2 miles to a point on ye Grand Capshine and from thence surveyed
this harbour more for the sake of practice than any use it could be, this
place being well-known by the name Diana Bay.
"Monday, 23rd November. At 6 P.M. sent party on shore with the first mate
to procure mutton-birds for officers and people. At 9 P.M. the officer
and party returned on board, having got near 100 birds and some eggs. As
I was at supper, I received the following note from R.B. Wood my clerk:
"'SIR,--Under the unfortunate situation in which I am placed as a
prisoner and a convict it may appear strange my presumption in observing
that something serious I wish to communicate to you. Pardon me saying
that secrecy is requisite--and that after you have supped and alone will
be best. I am, Sir, Your humble servant,
"'R.B. WOOD.'
"On receiving this, a little time after, I sent for him and he informed
me that he had seen Mark Clark, soldier, and Robert Warren, who was only
two days ago rated boatswain's mate, pumping off spirits from a cask in
the hold; that he suspected this business had been carried on for some
time and believed more than those might be concerned. In addition John
Johnston, cabin servant, informed me that he had seen a number of the
people at different times half drunk when on their watch below; in
consequence of these circumstances I turned the hands on deck and read
the Articles of War to them, put Mark Clark, Robert Warren and Farmer
Barnes in irons, he being drunk; and in the morning I hoisted on deck all
the casks of spirits, overhauled them and found one with the bung just
out and about 4 1/2 inches dry in it; nailed lead over the bung and
tossed them below again. On questioning Clark on this affair he confessed
that he and Warren had pumped spirits out of the cask last night, and
George Yates informed me that Warren had made a practice of it for some
time back. On investigating the matter closer it appeared that Barnes had
nothing to do with it. I accordingly released Barnes and again rated him
boatswain's mate--turned the hands up and punished Robert Warren with
four dozen lashes for robbery, drunkenness, etc., and Mark Clark with one
dozen lashes only as it appeared that he had been prompted to this when
drunk.
"Tuesday, 24th November. First and middle parts fine weather and mostly
calm, latter hazy. Half-past 9 anchor and made sail out between the Grand
Capshine and Cat Island, hoisted up our gig and stowe her. At 10 A.M. Cat
Island bore south-east distant 5 miles and the peak of the Grand Capshine
south-south-east distant 6 miles. At noon the Grand Capshine bore
south-east distant 16 or 17 miles and the west end of ye Sisters west by
south distant 8 or 9 miles. The harbour we have just left is formed by
the Grand Capshine Island, Cat Island and Storehouse Island. Between the
Grand Capshine and Cat Island is a narrow channel with deep water through
which we came to-day--it lies about north-west by north a few hundred
yards. Between Cat Island and Storehouse Island is a two-fathom channel,
one-sixth of a mile broad through which Kable's schooner has passed to
the South. The harbour is very open and a good deal of sea heaves in, but
small vessels can up anchor and just run round to the opposite side of
Cat Island--there is a snug cove entirely secure from all southerly winds
where they may anchor, taking care to be off from this last place, if the
wind comes from the northward. From the Grand Capshine the land trends
away in a south-east and south direction as far as Cape Barren; from
where we lay the Bay of Shoals bore south by west distant 15 miles. A
vessel of a large draught would have to lie a good deal further out in
the Bay than we, as we rode in one quarter less than 3 fathoms.
"Wednesday, 25th November. Fresh breezes and hazy weather. At half-past 3
saw a single rock bearing south-south-west distance 9 or 10 miles, and an
island on our beam south-east...haze very thick and scud flying thick. At
4 P.M. saw a rock lying to north of Kent's Group about 3 miles...At
half-past 4 saw easternmost island of Kent's Group bearing west by south
distance 8 miles, by half-past 5 P.M. having come nearly up with the
land, passed in between the group and a rock that lies to the north and
by 6 opened the Sound that passes through the Islands...As we approached
the first cove saw a large part of the island on fire from which we
conceived there might be people on shore--kept standing up the Sound and
had furious gusts of wind at every point of the compass. We proceeded up
with sails, sweeps and boat till we opened the second cove but found it
impossible to get to anchorage in it as violent gusts constantly came
down it. At 7 P.M. bore away for the cove on the west side and at
half-past 7 P.M. came to anchor in 7 fathoms.
"Thursday, 26th November. Moderately fine weather in general. At 2 P.M.
the officer and his
party returned on board having found no water--every part of the cove was
overhauled and only rainwater could be found here, the rocks being
strongly marked with the stream of water that will naturally fall from
such a high land in heavy rain. From the mate's finding a small quantity
of Queyha rope in this cove, and seeing a dog dead on the beach, I fancy
the Harrington must have been here, the dog being much like one of Mr.
Cumming's. In the afternoon I sent the first mate to the second cove on
the east side to overhaul it for water, but on the strictest search they
found nothing, but a brackish kind of spring...they however shot and
caught three kangaroos.
"Friday, 27th November. Sounded the channel that divided this group right
through...At the southernmost end lies a bank of 10 fathoms. As you
approach the East Cove the water gradually shoals from 30 to 40
fathoms...and as you advance on West Cove the water suddenly falls from
30 to 16-14-12-10-8-7-6-5-4 and 3 fathoms, close to the beach the bottom
consists of sand mixed with small shells and stones--the East Cove the
same and small seaweed, the West Cove is strong, coarse sand and where we
anchored quite covered with black kelp so much so that at first I was not
clear but it might be rock...
"Saturday, 28th November. Measured a base line of 324 fathoms in length
from one point of the cove we lay in to the other, it was measured with
small line and every five fathoms of it was a chip of light wood in
length 120 fathoms. We had the boats employed in this business;
alternately anchored them till we got across to the southern end of the
point of the cove; and as the water was smooth I fancy the length of base
line to be correct. I then surveyed the eastern side of the Sound and
Cove. Sent the first mate and some hands to the north-east cove to cut
some of ye wood growing there...I sent the carpenter with him--overhauled
our bread and found...some had got damp and mouldy, got it out from the
rest, but owing to the bad weather could not air it on deck...
"Sunday, 29th November. Hard gales and gloomy weather throughout with a
swell heaving in through the northern entrance of ye sound. P.M. The
first mate returned on board having cut down two spars...The party with
the dog caught two large and 3 small kangaroos. At 8 P.M. as usual set a
third watch with an officer. A.M. I went over to Harrington (or East)
Cove,* (* Named after Captain Campbell's ship the Harrington to whose
presence in these waters Murray often refers.) measured a base line and
surveyed the western side of this sound. I also overhauled every part of
the Rocks all round the cove and without it examined every drain that I
fell in with and although I saw at different parts of the under rocks and
in holes perhaps enough water to keep a few men alive yet no quantity
that could be much use to a ship's company. In East Cove there is a good
anchorage all over it for ships of any size, and they may exactly choose
what water to be in from 3 fathoms close in to ye beach to 14 in ye mouth
of it. I sounded every part of it and ye bottom is sand with small stones
and shells much covered with black seaweed that might at first be thought
to be rocks...West Cove is almost the same...East Cove is ye best to lie
in as it entirely shuts in sea gates and moreover has little ground swell
to which both other coves are subject. With respect to the tide in the
coves little can be perceived, the perpendicular rise at full moon may be
10 or 11 feet, with us it sometimes was 8 or 9 feet, and that in ye
course of ye hour...At all times it is imprudent to carry sail on a boat
in this sound; the puffs come so violent that before anybody could take
in her sail she would to a certainty be overset; even ships, in my
opinion, would do well before they enter this sound to take in all their
small sails and keep all hands at the braces fore and aft as well as
hands by the top-sail halyards, and it is necessary to handle the yards
quick otherwise a large vessel will be sure to rub sides with ye rocks if
it has blown fresh outside all day...The kangaroo seems to be most
plentiful at this time in the north-eastern cove owing, I fancy, to their
being less disturbed there than in the other coves, but with good dogs
and a little trouble they may be had on the hills in the vicinity of
either cove. Wood is plentiful and no trouble in getting it.
"Monday, 30th November. Hard gales, hazy weather with rain throughout.
The soil throughout this sound is nothing but sand a good way up the
hills and after that you chiefly find rocks with here and there a shott
of grass. The hills are covered very thick with brushwood, a great part
of which is decayed and rotten and renders it a business of labour to
ascend any of them. They are also very high--we have seen nothing new on
them. A few parrots are to be seen and now and then a snake of a large
size, these with kangaroos, gulls, redbills, form the inhabitants of
these islands, sometimes a seal comes in shore but very seldom and with
much care.
"Thursday, 3rd December. Warped a little way out and finding could get no
more of the warp sent hands in the gig to stand by...she drove and we
were obliged to let go small bower again. At this time wind increased to
a gale...P.M. Got altitudes for Governor King's chronometer. A.M. Sent
the first mate and a party to get kangaroos to the opposite or west side
of the land from the cove we lay in and for fresh water.
"Friday, 4th December. At sundown party returned--reported no fresh water
to be found on that side of island, got 3 kangaroos, some shell-fish, and
knocked down 2 seals. A.M. Hove up our B.B.* (* Best bower, that is the
starboard bower.) At 11 weighed and made sail through sound, at quarter
past 11 clear through, strong wind at east. Got sight of rock laying off
this island. At noon bore up to survey small island.
"Saturday, 5th December. Strong winds, hazy. At 1 P.M. hove to...At 3
P.M. body of Kent's Group bore east by south distance 15 or 16 miles. At
half-past 4 the five Seal Islands bore north-north-east distance 8 or 9
miles...Saw Sir R. Curtis's Island west by south 10 miles. At 7 P.M. saw
Wilson's Promontory bearing west-north-west 13 or 14 miles...Stood on
till 9 P.M. when it being thick and almost calm hauled close to ye wind
off and on...At 4 A.M. the Promontory bore west 7 or 8 miles. Made all
sail at 8 A.M. rounded and intending to run between the mainland and ye
islands having a fine breeze was surprised to lose all ye wind in an
instant as we stood in under ye land--although we were not less than 3 or
4 miles from ye mainland it fell calm...Put the helm a starboard, put
sweeps on her, and pulled her out into ye wind again...At 10 A.M. passed
a remarkable rock with a hole in it. Latitude 39 degrees 10 minutes 0
seconds south.
"Sunday, 6th December. At 3 P.M. saw Cape Liptrap bearing
north-north-west distance 6 or 7 miles...Stood in round Phillip Island
and by 8 A.M. got close up with Grant's Point and Seal Island.
"Monday, 7th December. At 5 P.M. a breeze sprung up at south-west. Stood
in for the entrance with all sail and the sweeps. At 6 P.M. gained
entrance and passed between Grant's Point and Seal Island which island
seemed as full of seals as when we were last there, a circumstance that
almost made me conclude that neither the Harrington or Mr. Rushford* (*
Presumably Mr. Rushworth.) had been here. Kept standing up the harbour
with a south-west wind, at 7 came to anchor in Elizabeth's Cove in 6
fathoms water with the small bower; lowered down the gig and I went on
shore to observe if any signs of strangers were to be seen. Saw nothing
to make me think the cove had been visited since we left in May last, in
short the only difference was that the land appeared in a higher state of
verdure now than it was at that time. At 4 A.M. out launch and sent the
first officer and five armed men to the river for fresh water...at 10
A.M. stood further up the harbour.
"Tuesday, 8th December. At 4 P.M. came to an anchor off Lady Nelson's
Point and I went on shore and shot a few birds. At 2 P.M. came on board;
up anchor and ran over into 2 fathoms water as near the mouth of river as
possible. A.M. I went in the gig to Churchill's Island and there found
everything as we left it--I mean the remains of our fires and huts; the
wheat and corn that Lieutenant Grant had sown in April last was in full
vigour, 6 ft. high and almost ripe--the onions also were grown into seed;
the potatoes have disappeared--I fancy that the different animals that
inhabit the island must have eaten or otherwise destroyed them. I regret
not having time or men to spare to clear a large spot and sow the wheat
already grown, as the next crop would be large. I never saw finer wheat
or corn in my life, the straw being very near as large as young
sugar-cane.
"Wednesday, 9th December. At 1 P.M. the first officer in the launch
returned on board with a load of water; on his examining the river he
reported that everything seemed the same as when we left it--a strong
presumption that no vessel had been there, as naturally they would have
replaced their water. The river has been flooded since last April, as a
temporary hut we built was found with part of the bank washed away; the
banks of the river were found all in a high state of verdure and in many
places the view is truly romantic and wild. No signs of native canoes or
huts have been discovered, indeed, there is less appearance of natives
now than when we were here last; for then many remains of huts, part of a
canoe and their beaten tracks were to be found on all parts of the banks
of this little river, all of which have vanished. The party caught and
shot 5 pairs of swans, out of which 3 pairs were young, and brought on
board alive, the others were old and we made some fresh meals from them;
they also brought on board a pair of young geese which however are very
scarce, but few parrots--the ducks are as shy as ever...At 3 P.M. sent
the second mate to Churchill's Island to cut down the wheat on purpose to
feed the young swans with it, at sundown they returned on board with it
in the whole perhaps a bushel in quantity with a good deal mixed with
oats and barley all fine of their kind--some potatoes were also found and
2 onions. At 8 A.M. the launch returned with a load of water, the officer
reported that George Yates had gone to sleep on watch, left the launch
deep loaded in imminent danger of being swamped as the tide rose, and
moreover the whole boat's crew in danger of being surprised by natives if
any should be about, for which crimes I punished him with two dozen
lashes this being an old offence of his--I pardoned him three different
times some time back for sleeping on his watch at Sydney...
"Friday, 11th December. The very favourable weather we have had since our
arrival here is to be thanked for enabling us to so soon fill our water
as I expected this business would have detained me 9 or 10 days. At noon
ran over to Lady Nelson's Point and there anchored in the mouth of Salt
Water Lagoon--7 fathoms.
"Saturday, 12th December. Sent the first mate up Salt Water Lagoon to get
swans; he, however, found none but in afternoon and evening shot two
large ones at Lady Nelson's Point. P.M. Having discovered that Robert
Warren had laid an infamous plan to get the first mate, Mr. Bowen, broke
and otherwise disgraced by acquainting me and all the company belonging
to the vessel that he was a notorious thief and embezzler of King's
stores, I, upon the fullest and clearest investigation of the matter,
finding it to be a most diabolical falsehood put Warren in double irons
intending to deliver him up to the rigour of the civil law on our arrival
at Sydney should a speedier way of sending him not occur during the
cruise. A.M. Sent the first mate to the north-west Branch in the gig to
look for water swans and birds.
"Sunday, 13th December. At 8 A.M. the first mate returned in the gig
having shot 9 large and small swans, the large ones when fit for use
weighed 8 and 9 pounds each. At sunset native fires on ye distant hills.
"Monday, 14th December. Sent the first mate and party in a launch to
overhaul the back of Tortoise Point.
"Tuesday, 15th December. A.M. Hove up and ran over into Elizabeth's Cove
where we anchored. Sent first mate and boat's crew down to Seal Island to
procure some skins...
"Wednesday, 16th December. I walked along the beach 6 or 7 miles, but saw
no signs of any strangers being here since we left this place.
"At 4 P.M. I returned on board, the launch also came on board, they
knocked down a few seals but there was too much surf, in consequence the
officer returned, he reported that no person could have visited that
island since we left this harbour as the seals were as plentiful as ever
and several thousand pups lying on shore. As it continued calm all night,
and seeing we could proceed to sea this day; I again sent him with a
party to Seal Island to get some of the skins both as specimens for
Government and for our own uses as several of the people were without
hats or shoes...Served out fishing line and 4 hooks to each mess, the
crew of the launch having yesterday caught several rock fish at Grant's
Point.
"Thursday, 17th December. Making ready for sea. Observed that for these
several days past the native fires had advanced nearer to us, and this
day saw one fire that could be no more than 4 or 5 miles inland.
"Friday, 18th December. At 2 P.M. the first mate and party returned from
Seal Island with some skins which run very small...This time the officer
found remains of fires and a number of bamboo pegs, also a club. The
Harrington must have been here, but where she could have lain at anchor
we could not discover; if any place along this beach, it is curious that
not the least signs of her are to be found--as I walked down from one end
almost to the other. P.M. I sent Bond and Missing, two soldiers, to cut
some more wood, doing which they were fortunate enough to discover a
spring of water...I went on shore and found on clearing it with our hands
that at once we got 100 gallons of very good water...In the morning a
spring was found that proved equal to the watering in a few days a line
of battleships. Pleased with this circumstance took a gang of hands on
shore and made a good road to it, we also cleared the spring of all the
dirt, roots and boughs of fallen and decayed trees that had got into
it...we bailed out of it at least 2 or 3 tons of water and found the
bottom to be a rock of very large stones collected together...in half an
hour after it was entirely empty it was again quite full of clear good
water. We now filled all our empty casks and everything on board that
would hold water intending to go to sea when the wind would permit. As in
this cove wood is in plenty, and the water is not above 50 yards from the
seaside; a vessel of any size may be wooded and watered in two or three
days and ride secure from all wind either close in or further out. It is
the best place in the harbour for any vessel to lay in whether her stay
is short or long...The soil of this island as far as we have penetrated
is very sandy; no black mould is seen, the trees are very small and very
decayed, nor does the small shrubbery grow with much vigour although
pleasing to the eye; in short this cove and island can supply a ship in
abundance with what is generally considered the greatest of her wants yet
I fancy it would poorly pay a settler. To-day we saw a fire which I fancy
could not have been more than 4 miles from Tortoise Point and perhaps 7
from the vessel.
"Saturday, 19th December. Finished the pathway to watering-place, having
made it level and fit
to roll butts on. At 5 P.M. saw a large fire lighted on the opposite
beach nearer the entrance of the harbour, it might be 6 or 7 miles from
the vessel, and in a little time it was left, and nearer to us, at a
little distance from the beach, another very large fire was made.
Expecting from this that in the morning I should be able to speak to them
I made a large fire abreast of where we lay, the natives could not miss
seeing it. In the morning no fires were to be seen which was rather odd,
as besides this nearest fire, last night there were several others in
sight...A.M. I got a large board hung up at the entrance of the road to
the well or spring on which was painted, in oil colours, directions for
any stranger how to get to the watering-place...
"Friday, 25th December. At noon suddenly taken with most violent squall
at West...this hurricane of wind increased so rapidly and with such fury
that we were obliged to let go the best bower and till all 3 anchors bore
the strain she dragged a little, struck top-gallant-mast. This squall
continued for 4 hours, then settled into a westerly gale with constant
thunder and lightning and at intervals very hard rain and also more sea
than I supposed possible in this cove. At 11 P.M. parted our warp, my
uneasiness at this was not a little however the S.B.* (* Small bower,
that is the port bower.) a little relieved by best bower held on at
night...
"Saturday, 26th December. From noon till 3 P.M. the gale continued to
increase and a sea got up still higher than it had yet been at any time
since the gale began...Made all as snug as possible for riding out the
gale, the hardest by far I ever saw in this country, and as it blew dead
on the shore outside nothing less than the greatest providence could have
saved us had we got to sea either of the times I attempted it. At
half-past 6 P.M. a lull with the appearance of good weather...7 P.M. the
weather looking very bad, made a run for Lady Nelson's Point, the gale
following us as hard as ever, at half-past 9 came to an anchor off Lady
Nelson's Point--at noon gale continued, however, we felt little here as
we lay right under the land.
"Sunday, 27th December. Between hours of 12 and 2 A.M. having caught
Henry Willis and John
Missing asleep in their watch, put both in irons.. 8 A.M. vessel
drove...she tailed in on a
mudbank, which obliged us to weight the best bower and with the long boat
lay it ahead to heave her off. At noon hove into 1/2 2 fathoms.
"Monday, 28th December. Wind at south-west at 3 P.M...up anchor and ran
to leeward of Lady Nelson's Point.
"Tuesday, 29th December. Winds at south-west. Shifted to north-west and
freshened into a gale with cloudy weather: thus has this kind of weather
bound us here this last 12 days...Sent the first mate and a party to see
and shoot some birds.
"Wednesday, 30th December. First part the wind veered to south-west and
blew so hard that we were obliged to give her the long service of the
cable although we lay under the land and not half a mile from it. No
fires have been seen these last three or four days.
"Thursday, 21st December. First and middle parts fine weather--at 3 P.M.
seeing a number of swans near Churchill's Island, sent the First Mate in
the boat to see and get some of them; he was lucky enough to catch
six...Up anchor and run down into Elizabeth's Cove. At half-past 6 P.M.
came to an anchor in 7 fathoms. By half-past 7 P.M. got on board two or
300 gallons of water and some wood. The well was in fine order,
overflowed and water clear. We here discovered another spring the banks
of which were covered with water-cresses and wild blackberries, got some
of both on board. I had intended going inland on the island some way,
this was baffled by a strong wind coming from west-north-west which threw
the sea into the cove--not at all pleasant. I therefore up anchor and
again ran up under Lady Nelson's Point.
"Friday, 1st January 1802. All this 24 hours it has been blowing a hard
gale...The New Year was ushered in with us splicing the main brace and
three cheers; by the weather with a black squall of wind and rain.
Released Robert Warren.
"Saturday, 2nd January. Strong gales with hard squalls, later cloudy. New
slung our two Nun buoys; sent officer and some hands to cut wood.
Observed fire a long way off in north-east Branch.
"Sunday, January 3rd. P.M. Sent the 1st Mate with 4 hands in launch to
the River to try for some birds.
"Monday, 4th January. Variable weather. At 2 P.M. the launch returned. We
have got at last some knowledge of the natives of this part of the
country. The following is the substance of the report of Mr. Bowen, 1st
Mate:--
"At 7 A.M. left the head of Fresh Water River having in vain looked for
some of the crowned birds, and having been able to shoot nothing (a few
ducks excepted), having proceeded down the river, and being nearly
half-way on board he observed a fire lighted on the beach between
Crownhead and the entrance of the River and thinking it could be nothing
but natives he immediately put back to prove this. As the boat approached
the beach these blacks were perceived sitting in the same form as those
of Sydney, and each of them had a bundle of spears in their hands. Our
people hallowed them which they instantly answered and did not seem at
all alarmed on the nearer approach of the boat, three boys made their
appearance. As between the beach and the boat there lay a bank of mud
about 200 yards across, Mr. Bowen could not get quite so close as he
could wish, however, he singly got out and began to walk towards them,
which when they perceived, they jumped upon their feet and it was now
perceived that one of them was a very old man with a large bushy beard
and the rest of his face besmeared with red ochre. The others were young
men. They were all clothed with the skins of oppossums as far as their
middle, and this old man seemed to have command over the others. As Mr.
Bowen advanced they all pulled off their dress and made signs to the
officer that before he came any nearer he must do the same; this was
immediately complied with.
"They then all sat down again and Mr. Bowen, plucking a root of fern,
advanced pretty close to them holding it up; they seemed to understand it
as it was meant. When he got within a few yards of this party the old man
seemed rather uneasy and began to handle his spears. Mr. Bowen then threw
them a tomahawk, and one of the young men picked it up; on Mr. Bowen
beckoning them to sit down, he doing the same, they again threw him back
the tomahawk, and all except the old man sat down. Mr. Bowen then broke a
piece of stick and cut it with the tomahawk and tyed a handkerchief to it
and again reached it to them; on this, one of the young men ventured to
reach his hand and take it out of the officer's but would by no means be
so familiar as to shake hands. Mr. Bowen then ate some bread and then
gave them some which they did not eat, but carefully laid it by under
some fern roots or leaves; on getting some ducks they took no other
notice of them than to examine in what manner they were killed, what
their ideas on that head were we know not as they did not take the least
notice of our firearms even when, towards the latter end of the parley,
it was found necessary to point one at the breast of the old man who all
along was very suspicious of our designs.
"All this time they expressed a good deal of wonder at the colour of Mr.
Bowen's skin, and one of the young men made very significant signs to him
that he must have washed himself very hard. They now made signs for Mr.
Bowen to go back to the boat and pointed down along the beach to Crown
Head. Mr. Bowen accordingly went into the boat and pulled down as they
walked, after pulling about 1 1/2 miles they stopped and beckoned for the
boat to come in--here 3 women made their appearance each with a child at
her back. Mr. Bowen went on shore here, little passed on either side
further than on Mr. Bowen asking for fire to warm himself. They pointed
to the boat and made signs for him to go there and get it the women
sometimes shook their hands to him, and the boys laughing and hooping. A
few more trifles were here given to them. A little before this all our
people got out of the boat stark naked as was desired and walked somewhat
near the natives, on which the old man sent the boys away to the women,
and he, after having been in a great passion, made signs for us to go to
the boat, began to retire with his face to us and brandishing his spear
as that everyone thought he would heave it, when our people turned their
backs the young men seemed more quiet. As we saw that all hope of further
intercourse for the present was at an end Mr. Bowen ordered Bond to fire
his piece over their heads in order to make good his retreat to the boat.
This had the desired effect, as they one and all were out of sight in an
instant. Before this they must have taken the musket for nothing but a
stick. All the weapons they possessed were their spears (of a small size)
and a stone tomahawk along with the wumera they throw with. With respect
to their size the young men were much the same as those of Sydney or
Jarvis Bay. They were not deficient in making out our signs, and we were
easy able to understand from their motions what they would be at. From
there being but little food for them on the beaches here, and their being
clothed in the skins of the oppossums, I presume they are Bush natives,
the women, I forgot to mention, appeared to be middling well shaped, and
good-looking children, they were, however, always at some distance.
"Mr. Bowen and the people having joined the boat came on board. Observed
all the remainder of the day they retired back into the woods and about 6
P.M. dous'd their fire at once although it must have covered an acre of
ground. At 4 A.M. a light wind sprung up at east, got our kedge hove
short, loosed sails and hove up--made sail for Elizabeth's Cove..."
"Tuesday, 5th January. Winds from south-east to east with cloudy weather.
At quarter past 1 P.M. Cape Shank bore north-east by north 9 miles. Kept
running down along the land steering west and west by north in order to
traverse the whole of this land, found it impossible to survey any part
of the coast as yet from the numerous native fires which covered this low
shore in one volume of smoke. At 3 P.M.* (* i.e. 3 P.M. on January 4th by
the civil reckoning. See above note.) we saw ahead land bearing
west-north-west distant 12 miles, and an opening in the land that had the
appearance of a harbour north-west 10 or 12 miles, bore away for this
last it having the appearance of fine steady weather...Accordingly kept
standing down for this entrance which every minute from its appearance
made us sure it was a good harbour.* (* The entrance to Port Phillip;
Murray returned here January 30th.) At 5 P.M. saw a small island in the
entrance and observed that between it and the main lay a reef...the 1st
Mate and the the Boatswain's Mate at the masthead looking out. At this
time I suppose we were within 1 1/2 miles of the entrance...and I
perceived that the sea broke short and was withal heavy--hove the lead
and found only 10 fathoms water...Astonished at this, I hauled our wind
and called out to them at the masthead to know if they saw any danger,
but none was seen. I bore away and deepened into 11 fathoms when Mr.
Bowen called out "Rocks ahead," immediately hauled our wind and stood
off...going often to the masthead I saw that the reef did nearly stretch
across the whole way, but inside saw a sheet of smooth water of great
extent. From the wind blowing dead on this shore, I was obliged to haul
off to clear the land, but with a determination to overhaul it as no
doubt it has a channel into it and is apparently a fine harbour of large
extent. Kept pressing sail and by 8 P.M. the extremes of land bore from
north-west to west distance 20 miles...the wind blew about as much as our
vessel likes and I am convinced that no vessel would have done more--I
wish I could say as much for her in light winds...At daylight the haze
over the land at east, and east-north-east with a heavy sea. I did not
like to bear down on a lee shore and so kept our wind stretching for the
westernmost side of the bay...no part of this bay as yet has been
surveyed owing to the sea, wind and the before-mentioned numerous fires
of the natives, but as our courses and distance were all with a free wind
till we hauled off...there will be no great mistake found in that part of
this bay laid down. Till 8 P.M. from our run from Western Port the soil
of all the land from abreast of Elizabeth's Cove to Cape Shanks is
excellent; after you round Cape Shanks and stand to west the land is
invariably low and sandy with little hummocks here and there of grass and
small bushes till you get down as far as this supposed harbour; on the
opposite side the land gently rises a little for about 10 or 12 miles,
seemingly good ground, it then sweeps away in a long bight of low land
which we could just perceive at sundown...At noon saw the distant
appearance of land on our larboard beam and from latitude observed 38
degrees 48 minutes 14 seconds, I take it to be somewhere near about Cape
Shanks; bore away for Cape Albany Otway. Altitudes for Time-keeper one
giving Longitude 144 degrees 35 minutes 00 seconds and the second
Longitude 144 degrees 35 minutes 45 seconds east. All these 24 hours
sound ground from 45 to 33 fathoms. Sand mixed with shells and brown
specks.
"Wednesday, 6th January. Kept running for Cape Albany and by 7 P.M.
having nearly run into its latitude stood off and on during night. In the
morning it was very hazy otherwise would have seen the land. At half-past
9 A.M. saw Cape Albany, bearing west-north-west 10 or 12 miles distance
and Cape Danger north-west 16 or 17 miles; both these capes marked with
white sandy front and middling high, all the land between is sandy hills
and long sandy beach, as also what part of the land we saw stretching
into Portland Bay. Ground invariably mixed with shells and brown specks,
sometimes a little gravel, till the last time when we had 24 fathoms fine
sand. At the time Cape Albany bore 26 or 27 miles. At noon hauled our
wind for Harmingar Rock* (* Harbinger.) but owing to heavy sea and wind
did not make better than south-east course--the vessel labouring and
pitching a great deal.
"Thursday, 7th January. From noon till 5 P.M. strong winds at
north-north-east and a confused heavy sea...This weather settled into
hard gale at south-west by 7 a tumultuous sea up and we laboured much and
lurched very heavy. At 6 A.M. it cleared--set sails, out all reefs
intending to make Governor King's Island while this clear weather
continued; as it will be seen, unfavourable winds and weather has
prevented me either tracing coast from Cape Shanks to Cape Albany, as
after making Cape Albany from being able to run a straight course to
Harminger Rock; both of these points will be attempted.
"Friday, 8th January. Altitude 145 degrees 07 minutes 15 seconds--this
confirmed me that we must have been driven eastward.
"Saturday, 9th January. Saw the loom of the land from the masthead which
I take to be Governor King's Island--its southernmost point bore S.W.S.
distant 16 miles. We could only see it now and then as the squalls passed
over. Kept working to this land which I rather think is part of the same
that on the 6th I saw and supposed it to be the northernmost cape, Cape
Danger, and another Cape Albany. I...will in making circuit easily know
them, both being sandy bluffs.
"Sunday, 10th January. Kept all night working up to land and by 7 A.M.
got within 6 miles of the body of the island; kept edging down along it a
4 or 5 miles distance; the land in general high and covered with brush
and now and then spots of large trees very tall. At 8 A.M. we saw two
rocks we had passed at 7 A.M.--make out exactly like 2 boats under sail,
they are both very near the land...As we kept running down along the land
I saw a low point of rock make out with a good deal of surf and the land
lay so far back that I concluded at least a deep bight must be
there--this proved true, as we rounded it the swell of the sea which
before was high greatly took off and although the wind blew hard yet as
it was off shore...lowered the boat and sent Mr. Bowen and two good hands
in her on shore...At half-past 11 the weather looking worse instead of
better made a signal for our boat which they noticed and came off--by
noon they got on board, and Mr. Bowen reported that wood and excellent
water was in abundance, that safe anchorage and good ground was close
into the beach--the soil is middling good, in short, it is an excellent
place to take shelter in from all worst winds that blow in this
country...Latitude of this bight is 40 degrees 00 minutes 09 seconds
south and Longitude 143 degrees 57 minutes 45 seconds east.
"Monday, 11th January. Running along shore at a distance of 4 miles at 1
P.M. Saw a rock bearing west distant 10 miles and a low point
north-north-west 9 or 10 miles--as we run down, this point still making
out made us begin to think that we should here find a bay or harbour. By
2 P.M. we completely opened it and saw it was a bay of large extent and
fine shelter...where we came to anchor. Found the tide of flood running
to the Westward nearly done (4 P.M.)--the different parts of the bay bore
as follows: Elephant Rock* (* (Note in log.) So named from resemblance to
that animal.) north by east distant at 5 miles north part of the bay
north 1/2 west distant 6 miles--the bottom of bay west-north-west 2 1/2
miles distant and the south point of ditto south-south-east, or 4 miles.
I now went on shore, found a good deal of surf on the beach till we got
on the southern side...here we landed and the first thing we saw was a
number of sea elephants* (* The Phoca proboscidea of Peron.) of an
immense size lying asleep on the beach, each of them, Barnes the
boatswain's mate told me, would make 8 or 9 barrels of oil; as we rowed
down the shore we took them to be bluish rocks. We found along this beach
two freshwater lagoons full of those animals which made it taste
brackish...We could not get near the upper part of them on account of the
number of elephants playing in them both. I named the bay Elephant Bay
from this circumstance.
"Tuesday, 12th January. Boat returned on board, they caught 4 badgers and
saw several kangaroos, but were not able to get any from the thickness of
the brush--they also found feathers of emus and a dead one. Snakes are
here, as the skin of one was found. We got several gallons of elephant
oil out to-day as a specimen to Government and for our own use...some
wood growing here reported different to any seen before...
"Wednesday, 13th January. Received some specimens of wood and some water.
At half-past 10 up and run out of bay, hoisted in gig, running down
shore; surveyed as well as weather would permit.
"Thursday, 14th January. Fair wind and cloudy. Running along shore 3 or 4
miles off and surveying it. At 4 P.M. having run as far as North-West
Point, and seeing a number of breakers ahead, hove to. We could have done
nothing by standing on in such weather. At 5 P.M. dropped kedge with the
warp to see if that would ride her and found she would ride by it very
well, furled sail and pointed yards. The land from Elephant Bay to here
is rather low of sandy soil and a very long white sandy beach all this
distance. The two sandy capes or rather bluffs are about 20 miles from
Elephant Bay and are so remarkable that I think no person could be well
mistaken in them. The course to Elephant Bay is nearly south-east by
compass; no person need mistake the bay as Elephant Rock lies in the
mouth of it about 3 miles from its north part. The bottom is sand gravel
mixed with broken shells...At 7 A.M. got nearly as far as the second
rocks and breakers, found a very high sea up. At this time saw an island
bearing south-west by south. The island presents a bold rocky front to
the sea and foul ground--breakers and rocks lie off from it a long way.
Not less than 10 miles from here, on looking to the southward, a low
island is seen and due south the furthest point of land--it appears
altogether rather a dangerous place unless a vessel has a good breeze
that can be depended on. A calm with such a current as we found here
might chance to run her upon one rock or another...
"Friday, 15th January. Moderate fair weather. At 3 P.M. tacked in shore
and at 4 P.M. shortened sail and stood off and on within 2 or 3 miles of
the sand bluffs; lowered gig and sent the First Mate in her on shore to
examine this part of the island, found the variation to be 8 degrees 54
minutes east. At half-past 6 P.M. the boat got on board. Mr. Bowen told
me that there was a very high surf on the beach, that those bluffs were
entirely sand, no shells were on the beach--inland he said the soil was
good--he found no water here, some kangaroo were seen but could not be
got at, the officer shot one but it got away; he said that on going up
one of the trees he perceived inland a large sheet of water which he
thinks must have some entrance into it from the other side of the island.
I rather think it a lagoon or swamp, nevertheless we will give the other
side of the island a strict search when wind and weather will permit us
to go round.
"Saturday, 16th January. At quarter past 4 A.M. breeze from north-east,
hazy weather and rain, stood in for Elephant Rock. At half-past 5 A.M.
made sail down the coast of island to the southward, surveying it and
sounding every half-hour...From 10 to 11 A.M. standing in for land. The
weather at this time cleared a little and from the masthead a low point
seemed to form a kind of entrance...into a deep bight or bay, a reef of
rocks was also seen to the westward of it. Stood in pretty close along
the edge of the reef and sent Mr. Bowen in the gig to overhaul the place.
Observed the rocks of this reef to be full of seals, sea horses and
elephants. The appearance of this place being favourable...stood further
in and perceived it was a deep bay.
"Sunday, 17th January. At 1 P.M. came to anchor--the bottom coarse
sand--from where we lay East point of land bore east-north-east distant
10 miles, the Seal Reef south by east 3 or 4 miles...we sounded every
part of this place where a vessel would most likely anchor and found it
14 to 7 fathoms. At 2 P.M. Mr. Bowen came off, he brought on board 3
seals with hair of prime fur and told me there was a vast quantity on
shore. Elephants are also in abundance and the woods full of kangaroo,
emus, badgers, etc., some few shells were found, no water seen as yet.
After dinner I went on shore: the brush is very thick which rendered it
impossible to get any way in, there is little doubt of plenty of water
being here as we in our search started 15 or 20 kangaroo from 30 to 40
pounds weight. An emu was caught by the dog about 50 pounds weight and
surprising fat. At one place on this beach an acre of ground at least was
covered with elephants of a most amazing size and several were all along
the beach and playing in the water. At 7 P.M. I came on board. A sea
watch with the proper officer had been set as has been usual ever since
we made this island...At midnight the wind increasing made sail out of
the bay as I preferred riding out the gale in Elephant Bay. At 11 A.M.
came to anchor in Elephant Bay. We have now overhauled and surveyed this
island from its north-west and west points to its south-west points being
in length about 55 or 60 miles, and although westerly winds that have
blown for such a length of time have retarded our voyage yet they have
enabled me to strictly search every part of the island between
aforementioned points, and should a north-east wind come and remain
steady for a few days we will be able to overhaul the remaining part of
the island with equal accuracy. Of the advantages to be derived from this
fine island I shall say but little, the plain truth is to be seen in this
journal. It contains plenty of wood and water, the woods are full of
animals and excellent of their kind, the shores are lined with fine oil
(if I may be allowed the expression) and this part of the island has two
good bays in it well sheltered from all the dangerous winds. A vessel may
anchor as I did unless the wind blows from the east, south-east or
north-east or north points of the compass. I named this last discovery
the Bay of Seals from the number of these animals on the shores of it,
and the rocks outside the bay Seal Rocks.
"Monday, 18th January. First and middle parts it blew a gale but with
long lulls at times, latter a harder gale with much heavier squalls than
I have yet seen in this country (the Western Port gale excepted) and it
is with great satisfaction that I am able to say that our little vessel
has rode it out as yet with one anchor and half a cable--a proof of the
goodness of the holding ground...At 8 the boat brought on board a turn of
water and 2 kangaroo were caught--the increase of the gale hindered the
boat from returning on shore.
"Tuesday, 19th January. From noon till 4 P.M. the gale continued. By
sundown it was moderate weather; the boat returned on board...a wambuck
was caught, served it, a swan and a kangaroo to ship's company.
"Thursday, 21st January. A.M. Sent Mr. Bowen in the gig to Elephant Rock
with directions to sound all the parts of this bay we did not run over in
the vessel.
"Friday, 22nd January. P.M. The boat returned on board. Mr. Bowen found
the soundings all the distance from the vessel from 9 to 10 and 11
fathoms and good ground. Close to the Elephant Rock there are 10 fathoms.
This rock is about 1 1/2 miles in circumference and it is entirely
covered with seals of prime fur some of which the officer brought, there
might be 6 or 7,000 seals of different sizes on shore. A.M. Sent boat to
Elephant Rock for skins and another for wood and water.
"Saturday, January 23rd. P.M. The launch returned with some sealskins of
prime fur and I was told that the Rock was full of mutton-birds, in
consequence of this I had the boat on shore and procured 80 or 90 of
them, served ditto to the people.
"Sunday, January 24th. Throughout this 24 hours the weather has been
remarkably thick and hazy...stood off and on till 4 P.M...then we made
some sail to get sight of land if possible before dark and by 8 P.M. saw
the north-west point of the Bay of Seals being north by west distant 5
miles, 2 Seal Rocks distant 6 miles north by east...at 2 A.M. found the
vessel close to the breakers and a strong ripple of a current with a very
confused jump of a sea. Tacked and stood off till daylight. By 6 A.M. we
saw the distant looming of the land, bearing north-west, and perceived
that all round us...lay rocks and dangerous breakers, one bore south-west
(a large rock 3 miles) another south-south-west 3 1/2 another south 4
miles and one west 5 miles, that one which bore south-south-west, John
Johnson told me he thought it Harbinger Rock, having seen it when with
Mr. Black, commander of the Harbinger. At 8 A.M. made sail to the
north-east...At noon strong winds at south hauled her off East.
"Before I close this log it may be proper to observe that from the very
long run of bad weather we have had and being so often baffled in our
attempts to get round the end of the island which is full of danger and
moreover have seen all the land that lies between its north-west and west
points to its south-west points from which these dangerous rocks and
breakers lie about 7 or 8 miles I now determined to stand off to
Albatross Island in a straight line for this reef for we could not
venture too close unto land it having every appearance of a gale from
south or south-east either of which blow in on the shore. This reef I
named Lady Nelson Reef from our so narrowly escaping being on shore on
it, this however is only to distinguish it from others for I have not the
least doubt but it is what Mr. Bass gave me a sketch of, the latitude and
longitude so well correspond with his. I fancy also it is what was seen
in the Martha schooner in 1799 along with the land, all of which is one
island...Thus we took leave of this large and fine island where the
benevolent hand of Providence has fixed the chief necessaries of life and
the means to procure some of its luxuries. We kept on East expecting it
would soon blow a gale and a heavy sea up. I much lament not having as
yet had it in my power from the series of unfavourable weather we have
had so exactly to comply with the Commander-in-Chief's orders as I could
have wished.
"Monday, January 25th. From noon till half-past 1 P.M. we run due east 8
miles, we then saw from masthead Hunter's Islands bearing (the middle of
them) south-south-east distant 5 or 6 leagues...Under the lee of Three
Hummock Island in smooth water we laid under easy sail off and on all
night--found the tides here to run very strong. In the morning I sent
boat on shore with the First Mate and 2 hands, by noon they returned
having shot 2 ducks and found a spring of water, some small kangaroo were
seen but not worth shooting even could they have been got at. The
footsteps of a man were seen on shore, perhaps one of the Harrington's
Lascars as the foot was measured and found very small. The shores of this
island are bold rock and some dangerous reefs lie off it, one of which (a
sunken one) we did not escape by 10 yards...Lady Nelson's Reef is
east-south-east and west-north-west distance about 30 miles in Latitude
40 degrees 20 minutes 30 seconds south and Longitude by Time-keeper 145
degrees 40 minutes 53 seconds, it has many sandy bights in it where I
would not scruple to anchor in south-south-west, south-east and east
winds.
"Tuesday, January 26th. At half-past 12 bore away for Elephant Rock. At 5
P.M. the south extreme of Three Hummock Island bore south by east
distance 19 or 20 miles...At sundown extremes of Governor King's Island
bore south-west to west by north distance 11 or 12 miles. At 8 P.M.
shortened sail and threw her head off shore intending to have lain off
and on all night, this was done. At 4 A.M. made sail for land and we
exactly made Elephant Rock right ahead therefore the distance between
Three Hummock Island and Elephant Rock is north 65 west distance 44 miles
true by compass north-west by west. We then stood on for the sandy capes
or bluffs and by half-past 9 A.M. the largest and perpendicular one bore
south by west distant 8 or 9 miles, this I named Cape Farewell. I took a
departure from it intending to run to Cape Albany (Otway); the wind from
4 A.M. has blown at east-north-east and from that to north-east with its
usual hazy dirty weather, in consequence of which we kept our wind till
noon to be certain of clearing the shoals and breakers lying off this end
of the island. At noon saw the looming of the western end of the island
bearing distant perhaps 12 miles, the direct distance from Mid Hummock of
that island to Cape Farewell is north 51 degrees west distance 56 miles
true but by compass north-west a little westerly."