HIS JOURNEY TO ROME, VENICE, JERUSALEM, AND THE HOLY LAND
After a voyage of five days and nights the vessel in which they set
out from Barcelona reached Gaeta, and the pilgrim disembarked and
started for Rome, although there was danger there on account of the
plague. After reaching the city, he found the gates closed. He spent
the night in a damp church, and in the morning sought to enter the
city, but could not obtain permission. As no alms could be obtained
outside of the city, he wished to go on to a neighboring village, but
for sheer weakness, the pilgrim could go no farther. On that day it
happened that a great procession came out of the city. On inquiry the
pilgrim learned that the Duchess was in the throng. He approached her,
told her that his malady was simply the effect of weakness, and asked
permission to enter the city to get relief. She readily consented. He
was successful and his strength returned, and two days later he
resumed his journey, reaching Rome on Palm Sunday.
Those whom he met at Rome knew he had no money for his journey to
Jerusalem. They tried to dissuade him from his undertaking, alleging
that such a journey was impossible without money. He felt assured,
however, that everything needed for his voyage would be at hand when
required. Accordingly, on the octave of Easter, he received the
blessing of Adrian VI and left Rome for Venice. He had in his
possession six or seven pieces of gold which they had given him to pay
his passage from Venice as far as Jerusalem. He had taken this money
with him from Venice only because they had convinced him that without
it he could not reach Jerusalem. On the third day from the time he set
out from Rome, he realized that this fear had come from a want of
confidence, and was sorry he had accepted the money, and was
deliberating about giving it away. Finally, however, he determined to
spend it on those he met, who were chiefly beggars. The result was
that when he came to Venice he had only four coins left, and these
were necessary for his lodging that night.
On this journey to Venice, on account of sentinels placed around the
cities, he was obliged to sleep outside the walls. The dread of the
pestilence was so great that one morning on rising he saw a man
fleeing from him in terror. Pursuing his journey, he reached Chizoa
with several others who had joined him on the road. There he learned
that he would not be allowed to enter the city. He then proceeded with
his companions to Padua, to get the testimony of a notary that the
party was not stricken with the plague. Ignatius could not, on account
of his weakness, keep pace with the others, and was left alone in an
open field. Then Christ appeared to him, as He had appeared on former
occasions. By this vision he was greatly strengthened and consoled.
The next morning, filled with new courage, he came to the gate of the
city, and although provided with no certificate, entered unquestioned
by the guard. In the same way he left the city unquestioned. His
companions were surprised at this, for they had to present a
certificate, which he had taken no pains to procure. At Venice they
begged their food, and slept in St. Mark's Square. Ignatius refused to
go to the house of the Ambassador, and although he made no effort to
get money for his voyage to Jerusalem, he felt sure nevertheless that
God would provide him with means.
One day he met a rich Spaniard, who asked him whither he was going,
and having learned his intention, brought him to dine at his house.
Here he remained for several days. From the time he left Manresa,
Ignatius, while seated at table with others, had made it a practice
never to speak except to give a brief answer to questions. However, he
heard all that was said, and took occasion after dinner to give the
conversation a spiritual turn. His host and all his family were so
filled with admiration for him that they tried to induce him to remain
with them, and introduced him to the Doge of Venice. The latter
offered him accommodations on the government ship about to sail for
Cyprus. Many pilgrims had assembled at Venice to go to Jerusalem, but
the greater part hesitated through fear, as the Island of Rhodes had
fallen into the hands of the Turks. Thirteen sailed in the pilgrims'
ship, which was the first to weigh anchor. The government ship carried
eight or nine. About the time of departure Ignatius was taken ill with
a fever, which lasted several days. On the day of sailing he took the
prescribed medicine, and asked the doctor if he could go. The doctor
replied he could if he wished the vessel to be his tomb. Nevertheless
he went on board, and after a fit of illness soon recovered.
The licentious conduct of those on board Ignatius severely censured.
The Spaniards advised him not to do this, as the rest thought of
abandoning him on an island. But the wind quickly conveyed them to
Cyprus. From Cyprus they went to another port called Salinae, ten
leagues distant. Here he went on board the ship of the pilgrims, with
no other provision than his hope in Providence. During all that
voyage, the Lord often appeared to him, and gave him great
consolation. The visions seemed to take the form of something large,
round, and golden. The travelers reached Joppa, and seated on asses,
after the custom of that region, they journeyed to Jerusalem. A noble
Spanish gentleman, named Didacus Minez, as the pilgrims came in sight
of the city, recommended silence and recollection.
All followed his suggestion, and when they saw a monk approaching with
a crucifix, dismounted. On beholding the city, Ignatius was deeply
affected, and the rest affirmed that they experienced a sort of
heavenly joy. He always felt this same devotion whenever he visited
the holy places. He decided to remain in Jerusalem, in order to visit
the holy places often. For this purpose he had taken with him letters
of recommendation to the Father Guardian. On presenting them, he said
that he intended to remain there to satisfy his own devotion, but said
nothing of his purpose of helping others. The Father Guardian told him
he did not see how this could be possible, as his house was not even
capable of providing for his own Religious, and he intended to send
some away from the Holy Land. Ignatius said he wished him merely to
hear his confession, since he had come to make it. The Father Guardian
said this could be done, but he should wait for the arrival of the
Provincial, who was then at Bethlehem. Relying on this promise,
Ignatius began to write letters to spiritual persons at Barcelona. He
had written some on the day before he was to depart, when he was
summoned in the name of the Father Guardian and the Provincial. Then
the Provincial, addressing him kindly, said he had heard of his pious
determination to remain in the holy places, and had given it serious
thought. Many others had the same desire, some had died, others had
been taken prisoners, and to his Order was left the work of ransoming
captives, wherefore he should prepare himself to resume his journey
with the pilgrims on the following day. To this Ignatius answered that
his resolution was very fixed, and he did not think that anything
would keep him from executing it. If the precept did not bind him
under pain of sin, he would not allow any fear to keep him from
carrying out his desire. The Provincial said he had authority from the
Holy See to detain those he thought fit, and to even excommunicate
those who would not obey when stopped by him, and he thought in this
case it was better for him not to remain. When he wished to show the
pontifical papers giving him power to excommunicate, Ignatius said
there was no need, as he believed his word. If they had the authority,
he would obey.
After this, returning to where he was before, he was seized with a
great longing to visit Mount Olivet again before he departed, since
the Divine Will would not suffer him to remain in those holy places.
On that mountain is a rock from which Our Lord ascended to heaven, on
which even now His footprints are visible. And this is what he wished
to see again. Therefore, without telling any one, and without a guide,
although it was a dangerous thing to go without a Turkish guard,
secretly withdrawing he went to Mount Olivet alone. As the guards
would not allow him to enter, he gave them his knife. After great
consolation in prayer he desired to go to Bethphage. When he reached
that place, he thought that on Mount Olivet he had not noticed the
position of the right foot of Our Lord and that of the left. He came a
second time, and gave his scissors to the guards to allow him to
enter. Afterward when at the monastery it was discovered he had gone
without a guide, a great search was made for him. Coming down from
Mount Olivet he met a girdled Christian, those who are bound to wear a
girdle to distinguish them from the Mussulmans; this man, pretending
to be very angry, threatened him with a large stick, and approaching,
firmly grasped him by the arm. He allowed himself to be led, but the
good man once he had hold of him did not let him go. In the meantime,
as he was thus led along a captive, he was visited with great
consolation, as he seemed to see Christ walking above him. And this
continued until he reached the monastery.