Victoria Sorbet

Perhaps there are some housekeepers who will think I should suggest an

entrée to follow the goose, but at this season of the year I am

trying to live up to the golden rule, and as at this point I should

vastly prefer a punch or a sorbet to anything else, I am going to

recommend that you be guided by my preference. You may take one quart

of lemon water ice to which has been added the whites of three eggs

beaten to a froth, a gill of kirsch and half a pint of champagne, and

send to table in some of the pretty punch cups which formed one of

your Yule-tide gifts. You may also serve cigarettes at the same time,

and, my word for it, your guests at table assembled will have a keener

appetite for the next course than if you had sandwiched in some rich

entrée.

With about nine out of every ten suburbanites raising pigeons in these

days it is very easy to understand why the squabs in the market are of

such good quality and are sold at such a reasonable price. And under

these circumstances don't you think they will be excellent for the

next course if broiled to a turn and accompanied by a salad of chicory

or watercress?

After the squabs the sweets. Few housekeepers will think a Christmas

dinner complete without mince pies and plum-pudding, but I cannot

suggest a way in which to make them, for truth to tell, I never

prepared either, and I'm above offering you any recipes which I've not

tried, no matter how true they may be. Consult your cookery books if

you've not a favorite method of your own for preparing these aids to

indigestion, and select those that seem least harmful.

Of course, there will be upon the table till dessert is served celery,

olives stuffed or plain, salted almonds or pecans, etc. I know that

you know this, but had I neglected to mention it more than likely you

would have accused me of being ignorant of the necessity of having

these side dishes at a dinner.

After the sweets the biscuit, cheese and coffee, and if the cheese is

to be of a particularly rich flavor, such as Camembert, Roquefort, or

Brie, then by all means serve with it some of the little Bar-le-Duc

currants, both red and white.

Are you to have wine? Then make it sherry with the soup, champagne

with the goose, and the very best burgundy to be had to accompany the

squabs.

I fancy there is nothing more that I can suggest that will add to your

happiness or that of your guests, who will probably feel very

grateful to you for spreading for them a feast "delectable to eat and

to behold." For yourself, you will probably feel very grateful that

Christmas comes but once a year.

* * * * *

You shall not be put off with any side issue in these very last pages,

but shall have dished up for your critical examination a list that I

promise you shall be a hodge-podge, a mélange, or, if it please your

sense of the fitness of things better, a macédoine of the best edibles

the market affords.

Doubtless when you have been in Western cities you have dined many a

time and oft at those sky-high restaurants overlooking one of the

Great Lakes, and have had the waiter, with an air of honesty made

perfect by practice, point out to you the very spot where the

whitefish you were at the minute admiring had been pulled in scarcely

three hours before. If so, you know the delicious and unapproachable

flavor of the fish in their purest and best estate. And yet they reach

eastern markets in a remarkable state of freshness and are inexpensive

enough to warrant any one in trying them for a change from the kinds

that are more common here.

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