Or try broiling them, if you like. Split the fish, using only the
largest size, down the backs; remove the backbones, wipe well and then
rub them with a little oil and season with salt and a bit of white
pepper. Broil in a double broiler for three minutes on each side, over
a hot fire. Have spread on the bottom of the dish in which they are to
be served a layer of Béarnaise sauce; arrange the smelts carefully and
daintily on this and sprinkle over them a scanty bit of chopped
parsley. You'll find this far and away ahead of the eternal "fried
smelts and sauce tartare."